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Microfiche 

Series. 


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Collection  de 
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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


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Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I    Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covara  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  reataurte  at/ou  peilicuiie 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


0 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartea  gAographlquaa  en  couleur 

Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  blacit)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plataa  and/or  iilustrationa/ 
Planchea  at/ou  iilustrationa  an  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relli  avac  d'autrea  documenta 

Tight  binding  may  cauae  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  llure  aarrAe  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  IntArleure 

Blank  laavaa  added  during  reatoratlon  may 
appear  within  tha  text.  Whenever  poaaibla,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certalnea  pagea  blanchaa  aJoutAee 
lore  d'une  reatauratlon  apparaiasant  dene  la  texte, 
mala,  lorsqua  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pea  4t*  filmAaa. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  itA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  ditaila 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  unic|ues  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuveiit  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normala  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


□   Coloured  pagea/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


n 

D 
E 


n 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtea 

Pages  reatorad  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAea  at/ou  pelliculAea 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6coiortes,  tachettes  ou  piquiaa 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachtes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


n~|    Quality  of  print  variee/ 


QualltA  InAgala  de  I'impreasion 

Includaa  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matiriel  supplAmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  diaponibia 

Pagea  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissuaa,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
enaura  the  beat  possible  image/ 
Lea  pages  totalament  ou  pertleilement 
obacurciaa  par  un  faulllet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  *t4  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  h 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  poaaibla. 


Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  suppMmantairea; 


Irrcfiulir  pagination:   II] •  10,  (91  - 10, 11  •  443  p. 


ThIa  item  la  filmed  et  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indlqu4  cl-deaaous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

^— —  — 

22X 

26X 

aox 

y 

tax 

18X 

20X 

aw 

2BX 

32X 

re 

16tails 
as  du 
modifier 
er  une 
Filmage 


les 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanlts 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 

The  Images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  bacit  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAnArosIt*  de: 

La  bibiiothique  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  Images  suivantes  ont  6tA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  rexemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fllmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'iliustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreMion  ou  d'iliustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — »>  signlfie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signlfie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  Included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  In  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  k  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  fllmA  A  pertir 
de  i'angle  supArleur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrent  la  mAthode. 


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ARKS 


MADK 


^J. 


-  ON  A  SHORT  TOUR 


aSTWBKN 


HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC, 


W  THB 


AUTUMN  OF  1819 


BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN  ENGLAND, 
HOLLAND  AND  SCOTLAND. 


♦        \ 


^ 


SECOND  EDITION, 

WITH  CORRECTIONg  AND  ADDITIOHS. 

J 


NEW-HAVEN: 

PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  8.  CONVER9K 

1824. 


t; 


DISTRICT  OF  COJ^J^ECTICUT,  ss. 

BE  IT  RKMKMBKitKD,  That  On  the    twelfth 

.day  of  August,  in  the  forty-fifth  year  of  the  Inde- 

]  pendcDce  of  th'  United  States  ofAmerit^a,  Beh- 

JAMlir  SiLLlMAir,  of  the  »id   District,  hath  de- 

por'ited  in  this  Office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right 

whereof  he  claims  as  Author,  iu  the  words  folloM-iog,  to  wit  :— 

*'  Remarks  made  ou  a  short  Tour  between  Hartford  and  Que- 
"bec,  in  tlie  Autumn  of  1819;  by  the  Author  ot  a  Journ:«l  of 
*'  Travels  in  England,  Holland  and  Scotland.  Second  edition, 
*'with  corrections  and  additions." 

In  conformity  to  th«>  act  of  the  Cona:rc58  of  the  United  States, 
entitled,  *^  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing 
the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts  and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  propri- 
etors of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned/' 

CHAS.  A.  INGERSOLL, 

Clerk  of  the  Dinlrict  of  Connecticut. 
A  true  copy  of  Record,  examined  and  sealed  hv  me, 

CHAS.  A.  INGERSOIX, 
Clerk  of  the  District  of  Conneetitut. 


r 


■<    ! 


\ 


PREFACE. 


During  the  excursion,  which  produced  this  small 
▼olume,  I  begun,  with  an  intention  of  ske'chini;  a  •«iiio9 
of  short  articles,  in  some  decree  popul.ir  and  gene  ral 
in  tht'ir  character,  and  still  of  such  a  cast  as  would  'ul- 
mit  of  their  being  thrown,  occasionally,  into  the  Aitieri- 
can  Jtiurual  of  Science. 

Before  the  close  of  the  journey,  these  remarks,  al- 
though written  hastily,  in  public  houses,  and  in  stoam- 
bo-tts,  became  too  extensive  for  the  object  first  intend- 
ed. For  reasons,  with  which  it  i^),  perhaps,  unnecessa- 
ry to  trouble  the  reader,  it  has  since  been  thought  ad- 
visable to  print  them,  after  due  revision,  in  the  form  in 
which  they  now  appear. 

The  geological  notices  are,  with  few  exceptions,  pla- 
ced under  distinct  heads,  and  may,  without  inconven- 
ience, be  omitted  by  those  to  whom  they  are  uninterest- 
ing. But,  the  geological  features  of  a  country,  being 
pnrmanent — being  intimately  connected  with  its  scene- 
ry, with  its  leading  interests,  and  even  with  the  very 
character  of  its  population,  have  a  fair  claim  to  delinea- 
tion in  the  observations  of  a  traveller  ;  and  this  course, 
however  unusual  with  us,  is  now  common  in  Europe. 
I  regret  that  my  limited  time  did  not  admit  of  more  ex- 
tended and  complete  observations  of  this  nature,  and  I 
cannot  flatter  myself  that  they  are  always  free  from 
error. 

The  historle.-.l  remarks  and  citations  have  been  the 
more  extended,  from  an  impression,  that  less  has  been 
said  by  travellers  in  America,  than  might  have  been  ex- 
pected, of  scenes  and  events,  which,  to  Americans,  I 
conceive,  must  ever  be  subjects  of  the  deepest  interest. 

The  friend,  in  whose  company  this  tour  was  made, 
having  been  in  the  habit,  when  travelling,  of  taking 
hasty  outlines  of  interesting  portions  of  scenery,  and  of 
finishing  them  af\er  his  return,  did,  in  this  instance,  the 
same  ;  and,  although  when  executed,  they  were  not  in- 

1* 


4  rRErAct:. 

tenHed  for  ptiMication,  the  drawings,  which  illustrate 
so'iio  oftlie  <-ctM)cs  in  this  work,  were,  at  my  request, 
furnished  hy  him 

The  CMirrivcp,  Mr.  S.  S.  Jonelyn,  of  New-Haven,  a 
yninija;  mm  of  twenty,  ahnost  entirely  self-taught,  evin- 
ces I. dents,  deserving  of  encourajjement,  and  which 
hiive  been  highly  spoken  of,  by  the  first  historical  pain- 
ter in  this  coutjtry. 

Thi»  little  accidental  work  does  not  assume  the  digni- 
ty of  a  book  of  travels  ;  it  contains  no  adventure,  and 
claims  to  be  merely  a  series  of  remarks,  and  of  state- 
ments of  facts,  respecting  some  portions  of  this  country, 
and  of  a  neighboring  province. 

BENJAMIN  SILLIMAN. 

Yale  College,  August  lUA,  1820. 


^■.,- 


i. 


\'^ 


<:) 


h  illustrate 
iy  request, 

v-HavPD,  a 
uf^fit,  evin- 
ind  which 
rical  paiQ> 

the  digni- 
ntnre,  and 
1  of  state- 
s  country, 

JMAN. 


:* 


41 


PREFACE 


TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


The  first  edition  of  this*  book,  although  a  large  one» 
havinu;  been  a  ;;oo(l  while  exhuHted,  and  the  inquiry 
for  it  still  continuing,  on  the  jv.irt  of  those  who  visit 
Lower  Canjula,  and  the  intorvening  countries,  I  have 
consented,  at  the  request  of  the  respectable  Individual, 
who  undertakes  the  pnblicalion,  to  revise  these  "  Ke- 
minki»"  for  another  Edition. 

The  principrd  object  has  been,  to  correct  a  number 
of  errors,  ujenendly,  however,  not  of  primary  impor- 
tance, which  h;ive  been  pointed  out  to  me,  by  the  kind- 
ness of  several  friends  and  correspondents.  To  those 
who  h  ive  sent  anonymous  communications,  1  now  re- 
turn my  thanks,  for  the  candid  manner  in  which  they,a8 
well  as  others,  have  treated  the  subject,  and  I  have 
shown'my  sense  of  the  value  of  all  these  sugs;estions,  by 
adopting  them,  except  in  one  case,  where  I  have  stated 
my  authority. — I  allude  to  the  death  of  B  iron  Dieskau. 

1  have  not  thought  it  necessary,  to  nild  a  map,  as  sug- 
gested by  one  of  my  unknown  friends,  because,  the 
country  travelled  over,  is  already  so  well  delineated,  la 
many  maps. 

Since  the  publication  of  this  book,  1  have  again  visited 
the  Lakes  and  the  batllii  ;;roun(ls,  and  have  therefore,  ia 
the  present  edition,  interspersed  vario  ;s  aiiditional  re- 
marks, observations,  and  notices  of  historical  firts, 
which,  perhaps,  may  be  found  to  add  to  the  value  of  the 
work,  as  a  pocket  companion  of  trainllcrs. 

Possil)ly  the  reader  miy  think  it  foiinn ate,  lh  d  the 
feeble  state  of  my  health  has  prevented  these  uddilioDS 
from  being  still  more  extended. 


u 


1   ( 
1 


;-| 


14 


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M 


f  PREFACE. 

As  this  little  volume  has  been  recently  republished  in 
London,*  I  have  to  regret,  that  the  reprint  had  not  been 
made  from  the  present  edition,  that  four  of  the  plates 
were  omitted,  and  that  for  the  vignette  in  the  the  title 
pa^e,  a  very  poor  ivood  cut  has  been  substituted.  It 
is  but  justice  however  to  say,  that  the  four  prints  which 
have  been  preserved  viz.  one  of  Monte  Video — o'le  of 
Quebec,  and  both  those  of  Lake  George,  are  beautifully 
executed. 

It  may  not  be  improper  to  add,  that  besides  nume- 
rous expressions  of  approbation,  as  regards  the  correct- 
ness of  this  work,  received  from  intelligent  and  rei>pect- 
able  inhabitants  of  Cannd;i,  1  have  enjoyed  the  advan- 
tage  of  the  direct  revision  and  correction  of  two  Eng- 
lish Gentlemen,  attached  to  the  British  army,  and  I  have 
in  the  present  edition,  availed  myself  of  all  the  criti- 
cisms, which  they  have  been  so  kind  as  to  make. 

I  shall  venture  to  close  these  remarks  by  an  extract 
of  a  letter  from  one  of  these  gentlemen. 

**  I  beg  leave  to  make  my  best  acknowledgements,  for 
the  gratification  I  experienced  in  perusing  your  sketches 
of  Canada.  The  shortness  of  your  stay  among  us,  pre- 
ventedyourenteringinto  those  details,onourconstitution, 
administration,  tone  of  society,  general  happiness,  virtue, 
agriculture,  scenery,  geology,  &c.  which  might  have 
given  occasion  for  a  few  more  corrections.  I  consider 
your  little  work  as  a  most  faithful  and  spirited  transcrip 
of  the  impressions  which  our  rivers,  cities,  commerce, 
language  &c.  and  the  external  coat  or  surface  of  our  so- 
ciety, make  on  a  transient  visitor.  Its  tendency  is 
highly  conciliatory  and  friendly,  and  it  will  always  be 
quoted  as  a  just  and  pleasing  picture  of  these  countries 
for  the  year  1820."  B.  S.  . 

Y,  C.  May,  15,  1824.  ,         ' 

*  Id  ft  collection  of  voyages  and  travel*  by  SirR.  Phillips,  k  Co. 


A 


■•> 


<!) 


CONTENTS. 


No. 


PUNTS. 

Fagt. 

(Quebec  from  Point  Levi,  (Vignette  on  title  pnge) 

Description  of  this  print,   -         -         -         269 
1.  Monte  Video,  from  the  south  rock,  (fron- 
tispiece) 
£.  Approach  to  the  house,  facing  page         •       l6 
Description  of  No*s  1  and  2,  -         -         -       10 

3.  Luke  George  from  the  village  of  Caldwell, 
(facing  page)       -         -         -         -     148 

4.  Lake  George  from  Fort  George,  (facing 
page)  -         -         -         -         -     150 

Description  of  No's  Sand  4,  -        -         -     149 

5.  Approach  to  Quebec  from  the  S.  W.   (fa- 
cing page)  -----     230 

Descriptionof  No.  6,     -         -         -         -     229 

6.  Part  uf  Quebec  from  the  wharf,  (facing  page)  232 
Dearription  of  No.  6,    -         -         -         -     233 

7.  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  (facing  page)  -     248 
Description  of  No.  7>     -         -         -         -     248 

8.  Lumber    establishment  at   Montmorenci, 
and  bay  of  Quebec,  ('facing  page)  -     254 

Description  of  No.  8,     -         -         -         -     253 

9.  Quebec,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere, 
(facing  page)       -         -         -         -     272 

Descripiion  of  No.  9,  ...        272 


PRIIfCIPAL    TOPICS. 

Monte  Video,  near  Hartford  ;   description  of  its 

scenery,      ------  10 

Middle  region  of  Connecticut ;  its  scenery  and  geol- 
ogy,         17 

Primitive  country  ;  its  commencement,     -         -  28 

Churches,;  zeal  for  building  them,  -         -         -  30 


I 


1 


(■'■ ' 


(       }. 


\    \ 


t 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

American  Inns  ;  peculiarities  in  their  manners,  3S 

Ririe  to  Sandi.^field, 35 

Ride  to  Lenox, 37 

Geology  between  Sandisiield  and  Lenox,    -         -  38 

Lenox  ;  sketch  of  the  place)    -         .         •         -  39 

Ride  to  New-Lebanon,    -----  40 

Shakers ;  their  villages,  &c.    -         -         -         -  41 

New-Lebanon;  its  mineral  spring,    .         -         -  46 

its  scenery,      -         -         -         -  61 

Ride  to  Albany, 64 

Geology  between  New-Lebanon  and  Albany,     -  66 

Aibany  ;  sketch  of  the  place,            .         .         -  68 
Hudson  river;  scenery  and  Geology  of  its   banks 

above  Albany       -----  66 

Horse  ferry  boat ;  a  new  and  singular  one,         -  68 

Troy.  Lansingburgh,  and  Waterford,         -         -  69 

General  Burgoyne's  expedition,       -         -         -  71 

Stillwater;  houi^e  where  General  Frazerdied,  81 

The  battle  ground, 96 

Gen.  Gates'  camp,    -----  97 

G«»neral  Frazer's  grave,    -         -         -        -  108 

'       The  iasi  encampment  of  the  British  army,  -  1  IS 

The  last  house  of  refuge,           -         -         -  ll5 

The  field  of  surrender,     -         -         -         -  ll8 

Reflections  tind  remarks,            •         -         -  121 

Stillwater  to  SandyHill, 126 

Geology  between  those  places,         -         -         -  128 

Fort  Edward, 129 

Murder  of  Miss  M'Crca,          ...         -  131 

Sandy-Hill;  massacre  there,     .         -         -         -  137 

Baker's  Falls, NO 

Excursion  to  Lake  George,      .         -         -         -  142 

Glen's  Falls,           ------  142 

Lake  George  ;  prospect  from  its  head,       -         -  145 

and  its  environs  ;  remarks  on  them,  131 

its  battles,         -         -         -         -  \56 

Fort  William  Henry,         -         -         -         -  158 

The  bloody  pond, l62 

Fort  William  Henry;  the  massacre  there,  1()3 

Mineralogy  and  geology  of  Lake  George,           -  l68 


1 

h 


\ 


{ 


') 


CONTENTS. 


Pa?e. 
32 
35 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

46 

51 

54 

66 

58 

66 
68 
69 
71 
81 
96 

97 
108 

lis 

115 

113 
121 
126 
128 
129 
131 
137 
140 
142 
142 
145 


m 


Fagre. 
Fort  Anne ;  battle  in  its  vicinity,       -        -         -       177 

Whitehall;  the  canal, 180 

Port;  sketch  of  the  place,        -         -       182 

The  old  man.  of  the  Age  of  Louis  XI V.     -         -       183 

Lake  Charnplain  ;  passuge  down,      -         -         -101 

Ticonderoga,   -         -         -         -         -         -195 

its  lines  and  ruins,  its  battles,         198 
A  night  on  the  Lake,         -         -         -         -       205 

Morriinw  scenery  ;  Plattsburgh,  &c,   -         -       206 
Entrance  into  Canaila,     -         -         -         -         .       208 

St.  Johns;  and  ieparture  for  Montreal,     -         -       210 
Monireal;  (irst  glimpse  of  it,     -  -         -         -       212 

River  St  Lawrence;  passage  across  it,      -         -       213 
Montreal;  first  impressions  of  the  place,  •         -       214 
A  public  house  ;  its  accommodations,         -         -       215 
Guests  ;  their  manners,  -----       2l6 

The  St.  Lawrence;  evening  scenes  on   its  waters,  217 

day  scenes  on   its  waters,  and 

its  banks, 219 

Passage  to  Quebec, 220 

Town  of  Sorel, 221 

Approach  to  (Quebec,       -         -         -         -       227 

Entrance  into  (Quebec, 234 

Cmadian  Calash, 237 

Beauport  and    Montmorenci  ;  excursion  to   those 

places,        ------       238 

Geology  between  Quebec  and  Montmorenci,     -       242 
Falls  of  Montmorenci,    -  .         -         -  .       244 

Saw-mills  and  lumber,     -         .  -         -         -       249 

Quebec  and  its  environs ;  view  of  them  from  Beau- 
port.    -------       262 

Battle  of  Montmorenci,    -         ...         -       256 
Falls  of  Chaudiere;  excursion  to  them,      -         -       268 
Projected  road  to  Maine,  .         -         .         .       277 

Quebec;  night  view  of,  and  end  entrance  into  it,       278 
Plains  of  Abraham;  death  of  Wolfe,  and 

Montcalm,         -         -         -         -        279 

Its  fortifications,        •  -         -         -       291 

Geological  andmineralogical  remarks,  298  to  303 

Death  of  General  Montgomery,  -         -         -         -     .'308 

General  Arnold's  party,  -        .        .        .       314 


J  t 


V 


I    \ 


l"( 


{  . 


) 


I 


to 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 
Castle  of  St.  Louis,  and  Death  of  the  late  Duke  of 

Richmond,  .         _         -         .       317 

General  remarks  on  Quebec,  -         -         -         -       SSI 

River  St.  Lawrence, S37 

Steam-boats, 342 

Dangers  of  steam-boats,  -         -         -         .         .       344 

An  incident, 346 

Night  scene  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence,     -         -       349 
Frederick  Pursh,  the  botanist,  (Note)       -         -       350 
Montreal;  the  mountain,  -         .         .         -       351 

Montreal ;  Geology  and  mineralogy  of  it&  environs,  355 
Mode  of  building,    -         -         -         -       ' 

Besmty  of  its  environs,     -         -         - 
Race-course,  and  racing, 
lt!«  importance,         -         -         .         - 
Miscellaneous  remarks  upon  it. 
North- West  Company,     -         -         - 
Aborigines,     ------ 

Ploughing  match,     -         -         -        -         - 

Agricultural  dinner,  -         -         -         - 

History,  &c. 

Caution  to  strangers  in  Canada,  .  -  - 
Peculiar  mode  of  extracting  teeth,  ... 
Catholic  worship,  .         .         .         .         - 

French  language,  -         -         •         -         -         - 

Population  ;  manners  ;  costume;  villages; 
political  situation,  &c.    .         -         - 
Departure  from  Canada,  -        -         -         - 

Plattsburgh  bay, 

Anecdotes, 

Burlington  to  Hanover,  -  •  -  -  • 
Geology  and  mineralogy  from  Lake  Champlain, 

Hanover, 

Dartmouth  College,  .         .         .         - 

Connecticut  river;  ride  dow  its  banks,     - 

Geology, 

^  Bellows  Falls, 

Geology  and  mineralogy,  .         -        -        - 

Bt-attleborough, 

Geology,  &c.  -  -  -  -  *  •  — 
Greentioia,  Deerfinld,  and  other  towns,  to  Hartford,  431 
Addenda — historical,  &c.  ....       438 


357 
359 
360 
361 
363 
371 
373 
375 
376 
380 
383 
364 
286 
389 

391 
398 
402 
404 
409 
416 
416 
417 
419 
421 
422 
424 
426 
428 


\ 


Page, 
^uke  of 

317 
321 
837 
342 
344 
346 
349 
350 
351 
viron9,  355 
357 
359 
360 
361 
363 
371 
373 
375 
376 
380 
383 
384 
286 
380 

Uages; 

391 
398 
402 
404 
409 
415 
416 
417 
419 
421 
422 
424 
426 
428 

rtford,  431 
43  i 


un 


TOUR,  ^c. 


liemarki  made,  on  a  short  tour,  belteeen  Uailford  and 
QuebeCt  in  the  autumn  of  IQIO' 

Relaxation  and  health,  and  the  gratification 
of  a  reasonabU  curiosiiy,  were  our  immediate  mo- 
tives, for  undertaking  this  journey.  Quebec  was 
our  uhimate  destination,  but  we  were  not  disposed 
to  neglect  interesting  intervening  objects,  and  us  we 
were  unincumbered  by  business,  and  travelled  by 
ourselves,  we  were  masters  in  a  good  degree,  of  our 
own  movements. 

On  the  twenty-first  day  of  September,  we  left 
Hartford  for  Albany.  A  blustering  equinoctial  gale, 
had  been  howling  for  two  days,  but  without  rain,  and, 
as  a  severe  drought  had  long  prevailed,  clouds  of 
dust  rose,  in  incessant  eddies,  and,  driving  before  a 
violent  wind,  filled  the  atmosphere,  and  enveloped 
every  object.  We  were  not  however  prevented  by 
the  storm  of  sand  and  dust  from  setting  out,  nor,  by 
the  rain  which  soon  followed,  from  proceeding. 
The  fine  turnpike  upon  which  we  commenced  our 
journey,  was,  but  n  few  years  eince,  a  most  rugged 
uncomfortable  road  ;  now  wc  passed  it  with  case 


^^     V. 


'1  - 

I 


t 


I 


l<     ' 


10     TOUR    BI/rWliEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBKC. 

and  rapidity,  scarcely  perceiving  its  beautiful  undu- 
lations, which,  gradually  rising,  as  we  receded  from 
the  Connecticut  river,  brought  us,  within  an  hour 
to  the  foot  of  Talcot  mountain. 

MONTE  VIDEO. 

Afterconstantly  ascending  for  nearly  three  miles, 
we  reached  the  highest  ridge  of  the  mountain,  from 
which  a  short  but  steep  declivity,  brought  us  to  a 
small  rude  plain,  terminated  at  a  moderate  distance, 
by  the  western  brow,  down  which  the  same  fine 
turnpike  road  is  continued.  From  this  plain,  the 
traveller  who  wishes  to  visit  a  spot  called  Monte 
Video,  remarkable  for  the  extraordinary  beauty  of 
its  natural  scenery,  will  turn  directly  to  the  north, 
into  an  obscure  road,  cut  through  the  woods,  by  the 
proprietor  of  the  place  to  which  it  leads.  The 
road  is  rough,  and  the  view  bounded  on  the  east,  by 
the  ridge,  which,  in  many  places,  rises  in  perpen- 
dicular cliffs,  to  more  than  one  hundred  feet  above 
the  general  surface  of  the  summit  of  the  mountain. 
On  the  west,  you  are  so  <^hut  in  by  trees,  that  it  is 
only  occasionally,  and  for  a  moment,  that  you  per- 
ceive there  is  a  valley  immediately  below  you. 

At  the  end  of  a  mile  and  an  half,  the  road  ter- 
minates at  a  tenant's  house,  built  in  the  Gothic  style, 
and  through  a  gate  of  the  same  description,  you  en- 
ter the  cultivated  part  of  this  very  singular  country 
residence. 

Here  the  scnne  is  immediately  changed.  The 
trees  no  longer  intercept  your  view  upon  the  left, 


\ 


Vsj 


L'EBKC. 

Jtiful  undu- 
ceded  from 
in  an  hour 


hree  miles, 

mtain,  from 

ght  us  to  a 

te  distance, 

(  same  fine 

i  plain,  the 

lied  Monte 

Y  beauty  of 

the  north, 

ods,  by  the 

jads.    The 

he  east,  by 

in  perpen- 

feet  above 

mountain. 

},  that  it  is 

you  per- 

you. 

road  ter- 

hic  style, 

n,  you  en- 

r  country 

ed.     The 
the  left, 


W 


TOUll    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    HtEBK(' 


II 


and  you  look  almost  perpendiculaily,  into  a  valley 
o!  extreme  beauty,  and  great  extent,  in  the  highest 
state  of  cultivation,  and  which,  although  apparently 
within  reach,  is  six  hundred  and  forty  feet  below  you. 
At  the  right,  the  ridge,  which  has,  until  now,  been 
your  boundary,  and  seemed  an  impassable  barrier, 
suddenly  breaks  off,  and  disappears,  but  rises  again 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  in  bold  gray  masses, 
to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet. 
crowned  by  forest  trees,  above  vvhicli  appnars  a 
tower  of  the  same  colour  astiieiocks. 

The  space  or  hollow  caused  by  the  absence  ot 
the  ridge,  or  what  may  be  very  properly  called  the 
back  bone  of  the  mountain,  is  occupied  by  a  deep 
lake,  of  the  purest  water,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  somewhat  less  than  half  that  width.  Directly 
before  you,  to  the  north,  from  the  cottage  or  tenant's 
bouse  and  extending  half  a  mile,  is  a  scene  of  culti- 
yation,  uninclosed,  and  interspersed  with  trees,  in 
the  centre  of  which,  stands  the  house.  The  ground 
is  gently  undulating,  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
precipice  which  overlooks  the  Farmington  valley, 
and  inclining  gently  to  the  east,  where  it  is  termina- 
ted by  the  fine  margin  of  trees,  that  skirt  the  lake^ 
After  entering  the  gate,  a  broad  foot-path,  leaving 
the  carriage  foad,  passes  ofif  to  the  left,  and  is  carri- 
ed along  the  western  brow  of  the  mountain,  until 
passing  the  house,  and  reaching  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  this  little  domain,  it  conducts  you  almost 
irpperceptibly,  round  to  the   foot  of  the  cliflTs,  on 


I  I 


"\ 


» 


li    Toun  BtnvKE.v  RAntroRD  and  Quebec. 


a 


4 


'I 

4 


I 


which  theTowsr  stands.  It  then  gradually  passes 
down  the  north  extremity  of  the  laiie,  where  it 
unites  with  other  paths,  at  a  white  picturesque  build- 
ing, overshadowed  with  trees,  standing  on  the  edge 
of  the  water,  commanding  a  view  of  he  whole  of 
it,  and  open  on  every  side  during  the  warm  weather, 
forming  at  that  season,  a  delightful  summer  house, 
and  in  the  winter  being  closed,  it  serves  as  a  sheU 
ter  for  the  boat.  There  is  also  another  path  which 
beginning  at  the  gate,  but  leading  in  a  contrary  di- 
rection, and  passing  to  the  right,  conducts  you  up  the 
ridge,  to  what  is  now  the  summit  of  the  south  rock, 
whose  top,  having  fallen  ofT,  lies  scattered  in  huge 
fragments  and  massy  ruins,  around  and  below  you. 

From  this  place  you  have  a  view  of  the  lake,  of 
the  boat  at  anchor  on  its  surface,  gay  with  its  stream- 
ers and  snowy  awning :  of  the  white  building  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  water,  and,  (rising  immedi- 
ately above  it,)  of  forest  trees  and  bold  rocks,  in- 
termingled with  each  other,  and  surmounted  by  the 
Tower. 

To  the  west,  the  lawn  rises  gradually  from  the 
water^  until  it  reaches  the  portico  of  the  house,  near 
the  brow  of  the  mountain,  beyond  which,  the  west- 
ern valley  is  again  seen. 

To  the  east  and  north,  the  eye  wanders  over  the 
great  valley  of  Connecticut  river,  to  an  almost 
boundless  distance,  until  the  scene  fades  away, 
among  the  blue  and  indistinct  mountains  of  Massa- 
chusetts, 


\ 


-^^^►^ '•''♦»-»    %«   K    -A^ 


UEBEt. 


TOUR  BKTWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC, 


13 


lally  passes 
5,  where  it 
>sque  build- 
>n  the  edge 
e  whole  of 
m  weather, 
liner  house, 
;s  as  a  shel* 
path  which 
contrary  di- 
s  you  up  the 
south  rock, 
■ed  in  huge 
below  you. 
the  lake,  of 
li  its  stream- 
ilding  at  the 
ng  immedi- 
d  rocks,  in- 
nted  by  the 

from  th« 
jhouse,  near 
,  the  west- 


The  carriage  road,  leaving  the  two  foot-paths, 
(just  described,)  at  the  gate,  passes  the  cottage  and  its 
appendages,  inclining  at  first  down  towards  the  wa- 
ter, and  then  following  the  undulations  of  the  ground, 
where  the  ascent  is  the  easiest,  winds  gently  up  to 
the  flat  on  which  the  house  stands.  Along  this  road 
the  house,  the  tower,  the  lake,  &c.  occasionally  ap- 
pear and  disappear,  through  the  openings  in  the 
trees ;  in  some  parts  of  it,  all  these  objects  are  shut 
from  your  view,  and  in  no  part  is  the  distant  view 
seen,  until  passing  through  the  last  group  of  shrub- 
bery near  the  house,  you  suddenly  find  yourself 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  and 
the  valley  with  all  its  distinct  minuteness,  immedi- 
ately below,  where  every  object  is  as  perfectly  visi- 
ble, as  if  placed  upon  a  map.  Through  the  whole  of 
this  lovely  scene,  which  appears  a  perfect  garden, 
the  Farmington  river  pursues  its  course,  sometimes 
sparkling  through  imbowering  trees,  then  stretching 
in  a  direct  line,  bordered  with  shrubbery,  blue,  and 
•still,  like  n  clear  canal,  or  bending  in  graceful  sweeps, 
round  white  farm  houses,  or  through  meadows  of 
the  deepest  green.  * 

The  view  from  the  house  towards  the  east,  pre- 
sents nothing  but  the  lake  at  the  foot  of'tlie  lawn, 
bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by  lofty  clifTs,  and 
on  the  opposite  shore,  by  a  lower  barrier  of  rocks, 
intermixed  with  forest  trees,  from  amongst  which,  a 
road  is  seen  to  issue,  passing  to  the  south  along  the 
brink  of  the   water,  and  although  perfectly  safe. 


v/     t| 


.-r-.J 


) 


>^ 


•» 


* 


I 


\ 


i' 


.1  I 


t 


14      TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFOF,'    AND    QtEBEC. 

appears  to  form,  from  that  quarter,  a  dangerous  en- 
trance to  this  retired  spot.  .1 

Every  thing  in  this  view,  is  calculated  to  make  an 
impression  of  the  most  entire  seclusion ;  for,  be- 
yond the  water,  and  the  open  ground  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood  of  the  house,  rocks  and  forests 
alone  meet  the  eye,  and  appear  to  separate  you  from 
all  the  rest  of  the  world.     But  at  the  same  moment 
that  you  are  contemplating  this  picture  of  the  deep- 
est solitude,  you  may  without  leaving  your  place, 
merely  by  changing  your  position,  see  through  one 
of  the  long  Gothic  windows   of  the  same    room, 
which  reach  to  a  level  with  the  turf,  the  glowing 
western  valley,  one  vast  sheet  of  cultivation,  filled 
with  inhabitants,  and  so  near,  that  with  the  aid  only  of 
a  common  spy-glass,  you  distinguish  the  motions  of 
every  individual  who  is  abroad  in  the  neighbouring 
village,  even  to  the  frolicks  of  the  children,  and  the 
active  industry  of  the  domestic  fowls,  seeking  their 
food,  or  watching  over,  and  providing  for   their 
young.     From  the  same  window  also,  when  the 
morning  mist,  shrouding  the  world  below  and  fre- 
quently hiding  it  completel)'  from  view,  still  leaves 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  in  clear  sunshine,  you 
may  heUr  through  the.dense  medium,  the  mingled 
sounds,  Qccasioi'ed  by  preparation  for  the  rural  oc- 
cupations of  the  day.       •  »  '  '    •■     ;• 

From  the  boat  or  summer  house,  several  paths 
■diverge  ;  pue  of  which,  leading  to  the  northeast,  af- 
ter passing  through  u  nairow  defile,  is  divided  into 


S' 


^ 


.* 


LCBEC. 

igerous  en- 

to  make  an 
1 ;  for,  be- 
the  imme- 
and  forests 
fce  you  from 
me  moment 
f  the  deep- 
^our  place, 
lirough  one 
ime  room, 
be  glowing 
ation,  filled 
3  aid  only  of 
:  motions  of 
^ighbouring 
ec,  and  the 
eking  their 
for  their 

when  the 
w  and  fre- 

still  leaves 
ishine,  you 
le  mingled 
le  rural  oc- 

eral  paths 
rtheast,  af- 
ivided  into 


TOUR  between  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.    15 

two  branches ;  the  first  passes  round  the  lake,  and 
generally  out  of  sight  of  it,  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
until  descending  a  very  steep  bank,  through  a  grove 
of  evergreens,  so  dark  as  to  be  almost  impervious  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  even  at  noon  day,  it  brings  you 
suddenly  and  unexpectedly  out,  upon  the  east- 
ern margin  of  the  water,  into  the  same  road  which 
was  seen  from  the  opposite  side,  and  from  thence 
along  it,  to  the  cottage,  beyond  the  foot  of  the 
south  rock.  The  other  branch  of  the  path,  after 
leaving  the  defile,  passes  to  the  east  side  of  the 
northern  ridge,  and  thence  you  ascend  through  the 
woods,  to  its  summit,  where  it  terminates  at  the 
Tower,  standing  within  a  few  rods  of  the  edge  of  the 
precipice.  The  tower  is  a  hexagon,  of  sixteen  feet 
diameter,  and  fifty-five  feet  high ;  the  ascent,  of  about 
eighty  steps,  on  the  inside,  is  easy,  and  from  the 
top  which  is  nine  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the 
level  of  Connecticut  river,  you  have  at  one  view,  all 
those  objects  which  have  been  seen  separately  from 
the  different  stations  below.  The  diameter  of  the 
view  in  two  directions,  is  more  than  ninety  miles, 
extending  into  the  neighbouring  states  of  Massa- 
chusetts and  Now- York,  and  comprising  the  spires 
of  more  than  thirty  of  the  nearest  towns  and  villa- 
ges. The  little  spot  of  cultivation  surrounding  the 
house,  and  the  lake  at  your  feet,  with  its  pictur- 
esque appendages  of  winding  paths,  and  Gothic 
buildings,  shut  in  by  rocks  and  forests,  compose  the 
fore-ground  of  this  grand  Panorama. 


i 


-  *..*-  ^^"^  '— ■- 


_i^    — '  •  If 


I ) 


rl  ^ 


I'j 


Hi      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC, 

On  the  western  side,  the  Farmington  valley  ap- 
pears, in  still  greater  beauty  than  even  from  the  low' 
er  brow,  and  is  seen  to  a  greater  extent,  presenting 
many  objects  which  were  not  visible  from  any  oth- 
er quarter.  On  the  east,  is  spread  before  you,  the 
great  plain  through  which  the  Connecticut  river 
winds  its  course,  and  upon  the  borders  of  which  the 
towns  and  villages  are  traced  for  more  than  forty 
miles.  The  most  considerable  place  within  sight, 
is  Hartford,  where,  although  at  the  distance  of  eight 
miles  in  a  direct  line,  you  see,  with  the  aid  of  a 
glass,  the  carriages  passing  at  the  intersection  of 
the  streets,  and  distinctly  trace  the  motion  and  po- 
sition of  the  vessels,  as  they  appear,  and  vanish,  up- 
on the  river,  whose  broad  sweeps  are  seen  like  a 
succession  of  lakes,  extending  through  the  valley. 
The  whole  of  this  magnificent  picture,  including  in 
its  vast  extent,  cultivated  plains  and  rugged  moun- 
tains, rivers,  towns,  and  villages,  is  encircled  by  a 
distant  outline  of  blue  mountains,  rising  in  shapes  of 
endless  variety. 

The  annexed  prints,  Nos.  1  and  2,  will  give  some 
illustrations  of  the  scenery  on  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain. They  exhibit  different  views  of  the  lake,  the 
cultivated  lawn,  the  buildings,  the  surrounding  for- 
est, and  rocky  pinnacles  and  tower;  but  still,  it 
must  be  remembered,  that  they  give  only  some 
parts  of  the  scene  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  with* 
out  conveying  any  adequate  idea,  of  the  altitude 


1.    I 


m'^. 


I      / 


u 


^r:S.:L_. 


'EBEC. 


valley  ap- 
m  the  loW' 
presenting 
tn  Any  oth- 
•e  you,  the 
ticut  river 
'  which  the 
than  forty 
ithin  sight, 
ice  of  eight 
le  aid  of  a 
rsection  of 
an  and  po- 
i^anish,  up- 
seen  hke  a 
the  valley, 
icluding  in 
;ed  moun- 
re  led  by  a 
I  shapes  of 


give  some 
he  moun- 
lake,  the 
ding  for- 
it  still,  it 
nly  some 
ain,  with* 
altitude 


m  \ 


t4  I 


»« 


„X\  „--**>^«'^ -^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC   17 

o(  the  place,  and  scarcely  a  glimpse  of  the  remote 
scenery.  Indeed,  a  full  illustration  of  the  beauties 
of  tliis  mountain,  would  require  a  port  folio  of  viewa^ 
and  would  form  a  fine  subject  for  the  pencil  of  a 
master.  . 


As  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  this  place  depend, 
principally,  upon  certain  general  facts, relative  to  the 
geological  structure  and  consequent  scenery  of  the 
middle  region  of  Connecticut,  it  may  not  be  amiss 
to  sketch,  in  a  very  general  way,  what  I  believe  has 
been  no  where  sketched^  at  all. 


{ 


Scenery  and  Geology  of  the  Middle  Region  of  Con- 

necticutt 

Among  the  objects  which  most  powerfully  arrest 
the  attention  of  a  traveller,  natural  scenery  gene- 
rally occupies  a  distinguished  place.  No  person, 
however  heedless  in  observation,  or  torpid  in  feel- 
ing, can  fail  to  experience  some  degree  of  interest  In 
the  features  drawn  upon  the  face  of  the  earth  by 
the  hand  of  the  Almighty,  or  to  preserve  some 
recollections  of  them.  Even  those  whose  views 
rise  not  above  their  immediate  occupations,  and 
who  contemplate  the  earth  only  as  a  place  on  which 
they  may  live  and  act,  and  as  a  reservoir  from  which 

♦This  is  no  longer  true  :  Mr.  Hitchcock  in  the  7th  VqI.  of  the 
ADaerican  Journal  of  Science,  8ic.  has  recently  given  an  Interest- 
ing sketch,  (1824.) 


18      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND  <IUEBEC. 


I    ! 


emolument  may  flow,  are  still  attentive  to  deep 
sands  and  rocky  defiles,  to  dangerous  bogs  and 
marshes,  and  to  mountain  chains,  when  they  defeat 
or  enhance  the  toils  of  cultivation,  or  oppose  for^ 
midable  obstacles  to  travelling.  National  character 
often  receives  its  peculiar  cast  from  natural  scenery. 
The  hardy  mountaineer,  at  least  in  the  early  stages 
of  society,  instinctively  despises  and  easily  subdues 
the  soft  inhabitant  of  rich  alluvial  plains  ;  and  the 
peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Scotch  Highlander, 
of  the  Bedouin  Arab,  aAd  of  the  Hindu,  are  derived 
as  much  from  the  mountains,  the  sandy  deserts,  and 
the  luxuriant  vallies  and  plains,  which  they  re- 
spectively inhabit,  as  from  other  causes.  Natural 
scenery  is  therefore,  always  worthy  of  observation, 
and  it  will  be  a  never-failing  sourcr>  of  delight  to 
those,  who,  thou3h  perhaps  not  themselves  painters 
or  poets,  participate  in  any  degree  in  their  faculties 
and  perceptions  ;  and  find  in  mountains,  plains,  and 
▼allies—in  streams,  lakes,  and  woods — in  cataracts 
and  caverns — in  cultivated  regions,  and  in  untamed 
solitudes— in  narrow  efiles,  and  in  the  boundless 
horizon,  ever  varying  sources  of  pleasure,  and  inev 
haustible  topics  of  admiration  and  praise. 

Neither  should  it  be  forgotten,  that  the  peculiar 
features  of  every  landscape  are  not  fortuitous.  The 
nature  of  the  rocks,  which,  more  or  less  prominent, 
or  buried  at  a  greater  or  less  depth,  form  the  firm 
substratum  of  every  country,  determines  also  the 
linearoants  of  the  surface;  and  although  the  Arab  of 


\ 


EBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   19 


e  to  deep 
bogs  and 
:hey  defeat 
)ppose  foFf 
1  character 
al  scenery, 
arly  stages 
ly  subdues 
^  ;  and  the 
Highlander, 
ire  derived 
leserts,  and 
h  they  re- 
5.     Natural 
observation^ 
•  delight  to 
res  painters 
sir  faculties 
plains,  and 
n  cataracts 
n  untamed 
boundless 
[,  and  inex- 

he  peculiar 
>us.  The 
Iprominent, 
the  firm 
IS  also  the 
Ihe  Arab  of 


the  desert,  while  he  looks  over  his  boundless  ocean 
of  saod,  and  the  Norwegian,  while  he  clinnbs  his 
snowy  mountains,  is  unconscious  of  this  truth,  it  is 
still  an  acquisition  to  every  intelligent  mind. 

Thus,natural  scenery  is  intimately  connected  with 
taste,  moral  feeling,  utility,  and  instruction. 

In  no  country  perhaps,  is  it  more  varied  than  in 
North  America,  and  it  constantly  bears  a  close  rela- 
tion to  the  geological  structure  of  the  different  re- 
gions. Even  in  so  limited  a  country  as  Connecti- 
cut, there  are  features  so  widely  different,  as  hardly 
to  escape  the  observation  of  the  most  negligent  trav- 
eller. The  greater  part  of  this  state,  being  compos- 
ed of  primitive  formations,  exhibits  the  usual  aspect 
of  such  countries,  and  is,  with  few  exceptions,  (and 
those  relating  principally  to  the  alluvion  of  rivers 
and  of  the  sea  shore,)  hilly  or  mountainous. 

In  most  parts  of  Connecticut,  the  traveller  passes 
a  succession  of  hills  and  hollows,  bounded  by  large 
curves,  sometimes  sinking  deep  and  rising  high,  so 
as  to  create  great  inequality  of  surface — ascents  and 
descents  frequently  arduous;  but  rarely,  except  at 
fissures  and  chasms,  exhibiting  h  gh  naked  precipi- 
ces of  rock.  '  .    '  ,    t  '• 

But,  the  hills  and  mountains  are  not  all  similar  in 
ihoif  outline,  and,  in  one  region  in  particular,  th« 
physiognomy  of  the  country  is  very  peculiar.    *  •  '*  -- 

At  New-Haven,  commences  the  region  of  se- 
condary trap  or  greenstone,  referred  to  above.  It 
completely   intersects   the   state,  and  the  state  of 


-tf.  __  


'  :#• 


*M 


J  < 


20      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  Q,U£BEC. 

Massachusetts,  like  a  belt,  and  even  passes  to  the 
confines  of  the  states  of  Vermont  and  New-Hamp- 
shire. 

Through  the  whole  extent  of  this  district,  as  in  a 
great  valley  among  the  ridges,  the  Connecticut  river 
flows,  except  below  Middletown,  near  which  the 
river  passes  through  a  barrier  of  primitive  country, 
which  continues  uninterruptedly  to  the  ocean,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  trap  region  passes  off  in  a 
direction  south-westerly,  end  obliquely,  with  re- 
spect to  the  Connecticut  river,  and  to  the  sea  coast : 
it  intersects  parts  of  Durham,Guilford,and  Branford, 
and  unites  again  with  the  primitive  in  East-Haven,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  New-Haven  harbour.  There, 
near  the  light-house,  granite  ledges  are  found  conti- 
guous to,  although  not,  (as  yet,)  in  absolute  contact 
with  the  trap. 

The  other  boundaries  of  this  region  of  second- 
ary trap  or  greenstone,  (as  it  is  more  frequently 
called,  may  be  thus  stated,  with  sufficient  accuracy. 
The  primitive  forms  the  western  termination  of 
New-Haven  harbour,  and  proceeding  northerly, 
through  parts  of  the  towns  of  Woodbridge,  Chesh- 
ire, Wolcott,  Bristol,  Burlington,  Cunton,  and  Gran- 
by,  crosses  into  Massachusetts  by  South-Hampton, 
Northampton,  Hatfield,  Deerfield,  Greenfield,  and 
Bernardston,  and  terminates  very  nearly  at  the  Ver- 
mont line.  Returning,  on  the  eastern  side,  this  re- 
gion is  bounded  by  parts  of  Northfieid, Montague, 


i 


\ 


S  ' 


*%  X 


JEBEC. 

isses  to  the 
ew-Hamp- 

irict,  as  in  a 
icticut  river 
:  which  the 
ive  country, 
icean,  a  dis- 

sses  off  in  a 
y,  with  re- 
e  sea  coast : 
id  Branford, 
st-Haven,  on 
ur.  There, 
found  conti- 
>1ute  contact 

of  second- 
|e  frequently 

t  accuracy. 

mination  of 
g  northerly, 
jdge,  Chesh- 
|n,  and  Gran- 

h-Hampton, 

cnfield,  and 
at  the  Ver- 

side,  this  rc- 

id,lMon(nguc, 


I 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   21 

Leveret,  Pelham,  Belchertown,  Granby,  kc.  and 
pasgiog  into  Connecticut  at  Somers— 'it  is  bounded 
by  parts  of  Ellington,  Vernon,  Bolton,  Glastenbury 
and  Chatham :  at  this  latter  place  it  again  strikes 
the  Connecticut  river  a  little  below  Middletown, 
where  tl}is  sketch  commenced.* 

This  region  is  more  than  one  hundred  miles  long, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  three  miles  to-  twenty- 
five.  Its  basis  is  composed  of  stralitied  rocks,  in- 
clined to  the  east  generally  at  a  small  angle  to  the 
horizon  ;  sand  stone  is  the  most  conspicuous  of 
these  rocks,  and  it  has  every  variety,  from  very 
Bne  grained  to  coarse  ;  sometimes  the  rock  is  a 
breccia,  or  a  pudding  stone,  or  a  mere  conglomerate. 
Generally,  beneath  the  sand  stone  we  fiinl  varieties 
of  slaty  rocks,  sometimes  impressed  with  vegeta- 
bles and  fish,  and  containing  small  veins  of  jet  and 
coal. 

The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  this  region  is 
composed  of  the  fuie  ridges  of  gi^p«nstone  trap, 
which  pervade  it,  generally  in  the  direction  of  its 
length,  and  reach  from  the  sea-shore  at  New-Haven, 
with  little  interruption,  to  Greenfield  and  Gill,  in 
the  northern  purl  of  Massachusetts. 

These  ridges  of  greenstone  repose  almost  univer- 
sally upon  sand  stone, f  and  as  this  rock  is  by  the 

♦I  am  indcbled  to  Mr.  Hitchcock's  geological  mnp  (a»eAvatir. 
Joum.  of  Science,  vol.  1,  p.  109,)  for  a  part  of  these  boundaries. 

t  The  only  exceptions  that  I  »m  ocquaiuted  with,  are  those 
ruentioneii  by  Mr.  Hitchcock  in  the  Amcricau  Jourual  uf  Suiefi<^fl, 
vol.  1,  p.  lOdi 

s 


e  1  i^* 


/' 


A'  !( 


22       TOUK  BETWEEN    HARTFOllD    AND    QUEBEC 

consent  of  all,  regarded  as  a  secondary  formation, 
proceeding  from  the  ruins  of  other  rocks,  it  follows, 
of  course,  that  whatever  rock  reposes  upon  it,  must 
also  he  secondar}'.  Hence,  these  greenstone  ran- 
ges are  called  secondary.  The  rock  is  called  green- 
stone, from  its  having,  generally,  a  dark  bottle  green 
colour,  and  trap,  from  its  being  often  in  the  form 
of  steps  or  stairs — the  word  trap,  in  the  Swedish 
language,  from  which  it  is  derived,  having  this  sig- 
nification. The  constituents  of  the  greenstone  trap, 
are,  generally,  the  mineral  called  hornblende,  for 
its  basis,  with  feldspar  intimately  blended,  sometimes 
visibly,  and  sometimes  even  in  distinct  crystals. — 
This  rock  is  not  hard,  but  it  is  very  diflicult  to  break 
— is  sonorous — endures  the  weather  very  well,  and 
forms  an  excellent  material  for  building. 

But  the  most  striking  circumstance  to  a  traveller, 
is,  the  peculiar  physiognomy  imparted  to  this  re- 
gion by  the  rocks  of  which  we  are  speaking.  Gen- 
erally, throughout  the  district  whose  boundaries 
have  been  sketched,  the  greenstone  mountains 
rise  in  bold  ridges — stretching  often,  league  after 
league,  in  a  continued  line — or  with  occasional  in- 
terruptions— or  in  parallel  lines — or  in  spurs  and 
branches.  O.ie  front  (and  generally  it  is  that  which 
looks  westerly,)  is,  in  most  instances,  composed  of 
precipitous  clilfs  of  naked  frowning  rock,  hoary  with 
time,  moss  grown,  and  tarnished  by  a  superficial 
decomposition.  This  front  is  a  perfect  barrier,  look- 
ing like  an  immense  work  of  art,  impassable  in  most 


1 


DEBLC. 

'  formation, 
I,  it  follows, 
pon  it,  must 
nstone  ran- 
lUed  green- 
jottle  green 
in  the  form 
le  Swedish 
ing  this  sig- 
nstone  trap, 
blende,  for 
,  sometimes 
crystals. — 
ult  to  break 
ry  well,  and 

■ 

I  a  traveller, 
to  this  re- 
,  Gen- 
joundaries 
mountains 
sague  after 
asional  in- 
spurs  and 
that  which 
mposed  of 
loary  with 
uperficial 
|rier,  look- 
le  in  most 


TOUll  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   23 

places,  composed  frequently  of  ill  formed  pillars,* 
standing  side  by  side,  and  receding  one  behind  an- 
other, at  diflferent  elevations,  like  rude  stairs.  These 
pillars  terminate,  at  last,  in  a  regular  ridge,  well  de- 
fined, like  the  top  of  a  parapet,  and  generally  crown- 
ed with  trees,  which,  at  the  elevation  of  from  two 
or  three,  to  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet,  form  a  beauti- 
ful verdant  fringe,  often  of  evergreens,  which  is  finely 
contrasted  with  the  rocky  barrier  below.  Although 
this  is  the  general  form  of  these  hills,  some  of  them 
are  conical,  or  of  irregular  shapes  ;  but  the  barrier- 
form  is  so  common,  that,  in  many  parts  of  (his  dis- 
trict, the  country  seems  divided  by  stupendous  walls, 
and  the  eye  ranges  along,  league  after  league,  with- 
out perceiving  an  avenue,  or  a  place  of  egress. 

Most  of  the  ridges  are  parallel,  and  it  is  when 
IraveUing  at  their  feet,  that  one  is  most  forcibly 
struck  with  their  castellated  appearance.  In  some 
parts  of  the  district,  it  is  impracticable,  for  many 
miles,  to  find  a  passage  for  a  road,  or  for  a  stream  ; 
and  both,  when  they  cross  the  direction  of  the  ridg- 
es, are  wound  through  narrow  rocky  defiles,  often 
singularly  picturesque  and  wild,  with  their  lofty  im- 
pending cliffs,  and  with  their  fallen  ruins.  Indeed, 
the  immense  masses  of  ruins  which,  both  in  this  dis- 
trict, and  in  the  similar  districts  of  other  countries, 
are  collected  at  the  feet  of  the  greenstone  ridges, 

•  In  some  places,  as  on  the  front  of  iMoiint  Ilolyoko,  near  North- 
ampton, Ihfy  uie  n-'iilrxr  pillurs,  liko  thr>«>r  of  (hp  Cilnnt's  Cause- 
way. 


X»  .»»- « 


'24      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


*     ft 


/i 


({ 


(i 


i        I 


II 


form  a  very  striking  obect.  Often  they  slope,  with 
a  very  sharp  acclivity,  half,  or  two  thirds  of  the  way 
lip  the  mountain,  and  terminate  only  at  the  rocky 
barrier;  the  ruins  are  composed  of  masses  of  every 
size,  from  that  of  a  pebble,  which  may  be  thrown 
nt  a  bird,  to  entire  cliifs  and  pillars,  of  many  tons 
weight,  which,  from  time  to  time,  fall,  with  fearful 
concussion,  into  the  vallies.  This  kind  of  rocky 
avalanche  is  so  common  among  the  greenstone 
mountains,  that  it  is  often  heard,  and  sometimes,  in 
the  stillness  of  night,  by  those  who  live  in  the  vicin- 
ity. 

The  cause  is  obvious.  The  greenstone  rocks 
are  often  composed  of  contiguous,  separate  pillars 
or  portions,  connected  only  by  juxta-position,  and 
severed  by  fissures  both  vertical  and  horizontal ; 
into  the  former,  the  rain  and  snow  water  filters ; 
and  when  it  freezes,  the  rocks  are,  by  the  well 
known  and  irresistible  expansion  of  the  congealing 
water,  strained  asunder,  and  whenever,  either  by 
the  gradual  undermining,  produced  by  the  weather, 
or  by  the  stone  diggers,  who  fearlessly  work  under 
the  impending  cliffs,  their  centre  of  gravity  ceases 
to  be  supported,  they  come  thundering  down,  like 
the  Alpine  glaciers,  and  strew  their  ruins  beneath. 

The  two  bluffs  at  New-Haven,  called  the  East 
and  the  West  Rock,  have  been  (especially  the  for- 
mer,) in  a  great  measure  despoiled  of  their  ruins, 
and,  to  some  extent,  even  of  their  columns,  in  order 
to  supp'*.  (h':  dcmaiuls  of  architecture:  but  in  mo»l 


rEBEC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  QUEBEC.       2o 


slope,  with 
of  the  way 
t  the  rocky 
es  of  every 
be  thrown 
many  tons 
i¥ith  fearful 
id  of  rocky 
greenstone 
nnetimes,  in 
u  the  vicin- 

stone  rocks 

[rate  pillars 

^sition,  and 

horizontal ; 

iter  filters ; 

>y  the  well 

congealing 

either  by 

e  weather, 

ork  under 

ity  ceases 

own,  like 

Is  beneath. 

the  East 

lly  the  for- 

^eir  ruins. 

Is,  in  order 

lut  in  nno»l 


« 


parts  of  the  greenstone  region  of  Connecticut  and 
Massachusetts,  the  venerable  piles  are  undisturbed, 
and  the  hoary  columns,  tempest-beaten  for  ages, 
stand,  the  durable  monuments  of  other  times. 

On  the  side  of  the  greenstone  ranges,  opposite 
to  that  which  presents  a  mural  front,  there  is  gene- 
rally a  gradual  slope ;  often  not  of  difficult  ascent, 
and  covered  with  trees  and  verdure,  so  that  a  trav- 
eller coming  first  upon  the  front,  or  the  rear,  would, 
if  unaccustomed  to  such  mountains,  have  no  correct 
idea  of  the  opposite  side. 

Such  are  the  outlines  of  the  scenery,  and  of  the 
rocks  upon  which  it  depends,  in  tiie  middle  region 
of  Connecticut. 

It  enables  us  to  understand  the  peculiarities  of 
the  beautiful  and  grand  scenery  of  Monte  Video, 
which  makes  this  villa,  with  its  surrounding  ob- 
jects, quite  without  a  parallel  in  America,  and  prob- 
ably with  few  in  the  world. 

To  advert  again,  briefly,  to  a  few  of  its  leading 
peculiarities.  It  stands  upon  the  very  top  of  one 
of  the  highest  of  the  greenstone  ridges  of  Connecti- 
cut, at  an  elevation  of  more  than  one  thousand,  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  of  nearly  seven  hun- 
dred above  the  contiguous  valley.  The  villa  is  al- 
most upon  the  brow  of  the  precipice ;  and  a  traveller 
in  the  Farmington  valley  sees  it,  a  solitary  tenement, 
and  in  a  placeapparently  both  comfortless  and  inac- 
cessible, standing  upon  the  giddy  summit,  ready,  he 
would  almost  imagine,  to  be  swept  away  by  the 

3* 


«.<:v- 


' 


(. 


1 

t 

h 


f . 


26      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

first  blast  from  the  mountain.     The  beautiful  crys- 
tal  lake  is  on  the  (op  of  the  same  lofty  greenstone 
ridge,  and  within  a  few  yards  of  the  house  ;  it  pours 
its  superfluous  waters  in  a  limpid  stream,  down  the 
mountain's  side,  and  affords  in  winter  the  most  pel- 
lucid ice  that  can  be  imagined.     Arrived  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  confining  his  attention  to  the 
scene  at  his  feet,  the  traveller  scarcely  realizes  that 
he  is  elevated  above  the  common  surface.     The 
lake,  the  Gothic  villa,  farm  house  and  offices,  the 
gardens,  orchar"  •,  and  serpentine  walks,  conduct- 
ing the  stranger  through  all  the  varieties  of  moun- 
tain shade,  and  to  the  most  interesting  points  of 
view,  indicate  a  beautiful  but  peaceful  scene ;  but,  if 
he  lift  his  eyes,  he  sees  still  above  him,  on  the  north, 
bold  precipices  of  naked  rock,  frowning  like  ancient 
battlements,  and  on  one  of  the  highest  peaks,  the 
tall  tower,  rising  above  the  trees,  and  bidding  defi- 
ance to  the  storms.     If  he  ascend  to  its  top,  he  con- 
templates an  extent  of  country  that  might  consti- 
tute a  kingdom— populous  and  beautiful,  with  vil- 
lages, turrets  and  towns ;  at  one  time,  he  sees  the 
massy  magnificence  of  condensed  vapour,  which  re- 
poses,  in   a  vast  extent  of  fog  and  mist,  on  the 
Farmington  and    Connecticut  rivers,  and  defines, 
with  perfect  exactness,  all  their  windings ;  at  anoth- 
er, the  clouds  roll   below  him,  in  wild  grandeur, 
through  the  contiguous  valley,  and,  should  a  thun- 
der storm  occur  at  evening,  (an  incident  which  eve- 
ry season  presents.)  he  would  view  with  delight, 


i. 


\ 


<.| 


7EBCC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC.      27 


lutiful  crys- 
greenstone 
>e ;  it  pours 
1,  down  the 
e  most  pel- 
on  the  top 
ition  to  the 
ealizes  that 
*ace.     The 
:)ffices,  the 
I,  conduct- 
s  of  moun- 
g  points  of 
ene ;  but,  if 
I  the  north, 
ke  ancient 
peaks,  the 
dding  defi- 
p,  he  con- 
ht  consti- 
with  vil- 
e  sees  the 
which  re- 
it,  on  the 
1  defines, 
at  anoth- 
randeur, 
d  a  thun- 
hich  eve- 
delight, 


chastened  by  awe,  the  illuminated  hills,  and  corres- 
ponding hollows,  wl  h  every  where,  fill  the  great 
vale  west  of  the  Talcott  Mountain,  and  alternately 
appearand  disappear  with  the  flashes  of  lightning. 

Descending  this  mountain  to  the  west,  the  travel- 
ler is  powerfully  struck  with  the  view  of  the  enor- 
mous masses  of  greenstone  rock,  which  lie  in  con- 
fusion upon  the  slope  of  the  mountain.  They  are 
the  largest  masses  of  this  kind  of  rock,  that  I  have 
any  where  seen.  One  of  them  is  twenty-five  feet 
in  diameter.  They  lie  in  every  form  of  disorder — 
alone,  or  piled  one  on  another,  and  plainly  evincing, 
agreeably  to  the  general  fact  in  every  country, 
where  greenstone  mountains  abound,  that  they, 
more  than  almost  any  other,  cover  their  declivi- 
ties with  fallen  ruins  ;  that  in  some  period  of  anti- 
^  quity,  the  contiguous  ridges  were  vastly  more  ele- 
^  vated  than  at  present,  and  that  these  dissevered 
masses,  cleaving  off  from  the  ridges  to  which  they 
were  attached,  were  precipitated  with  irresistible 
violence,  down  the  side  of  the  mountain,  till  they 
found  a  resting  place  in  solitudes,  then  trod  only  by 
the  wild  beasts,  or  by  the  savage  aboriginals.         ' 

Alluvial*  country  succeeds  to  the  Talcott  moun- 
tain, and  for  miles,  we  pass  over  gentle  undulations 
abounding  with  water-worn  pebbles. 

The  red  sand  stone  which  every  where  in  Con- 
necticut, as  well  as  in  many  other  countries,  forms 
the  basis  of  the  greenstone    mountains,   makes  its 

*  Such  tracts  as  this  are  oow  called  diluvial. 


-Oi. 


28   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


,■)  ■ 


If 


appearance  in  various  places,  and  constitutes,  along 
with  this  species  of  trap,  the  most  common  building 
stone  of  the  country. 


COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  PRIMITIVE  COUNTRY. 

At  the  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  Hartford, 
we  crossed  the  first  ridge  of  gneiss.  This  is  a  part 
of  the  great  barrier  of  primitive  rocks  which,  as  I 
have  already  stated,  bounds  the  secondary  region  of 
Connecticut  on  the  west,  and  in  a  moment,  changes 
both  the  .'^'^ology  and  the  picturesque  features  of  the 
country. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  the  primitive  coun- 
try, on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Connecticut  river, 
comes  in  at  nearly  the  same  distance  from  Hartford 
as  on  the  western  side.  As  we  ascend  the  Bolton 
hill,  going  towards  Norwich,  we  come  to  the  prim- 
itive rocks,  which  there,  are  mica  slate,  filled  with 
garnets  and  staurotide.  1  suppose  these  two  boun- 
daries of  the  primitive,  are  therefore  about  twenty- 
five  miles  apart.  Generally,  the  boundary  of  primi- 
tive which  limits  the  great  secondary  greenstone  re- 
gion of  Connecticut,  already  described,is  distinguish- 
ed by  the  contour  of  the  hills,  which  is  rounded,  and 
they  are  commonly  of  greater  elevation  than  the 
ridges  of  trap  or  greenstone.  Thus  it  is  impos- 
sible, for  a  traveller  to  go  through  the  length  of 
Connecticut,  without  traversing  its  secondary  green- 


%. 


[7EBEC. 


TOUB    BETWi     N  HART)    )RD    ANO    QUEBE4| 


tutes,  along 
9n  buildine; 


COUNTRY. 

1  Hartford, 
s  is  a  part 
^hich,  as  I 
y  region  of 
nt,  changes 
tures  of  the 

itive  coun- 
ticut  river, 
n  Hartford 
the  Bohon 
»  the  prim- 
filled  with 
two  boun- 
It  twenty- 
y  of  prinni- 
^nstone  re- 
istinguish- 
nded, and 
than  the 
IS  irnpos- 
length  of 
ary  green- 


stone region.  As  he  descends  lOm  th  -.  high 
rounded  primitive  hills,  on  eith  side,  ne  will 
be  struck  with  the  distinct  ridges  of  greenstone 
rock,  and  with  the  long  and  often  narrow  vallies 
between  them.  Mount  Holyoke  and  mount  Tom, 
near  Northampton,  and  the  blue  hills  of  Meriden,are 
parts  of  these  greenstone  mountains.  The  State's 
prison  of  Connecticut,  or  Newgate,  is  in  one  of  these 
ranges,  or  rather  in  the  sand  stone  which  lies  under 
it,  and  from  this  prison  to  New-Haven  a  distance  of 
fifty  or  sixty  miles,  one  rides  almost  at  the  foot  of  a 
nearly  uninterrupted  barrier  of  greenstone,  frequent- 
ly  from  four  to  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  high. 
It  is  amusing  to  observe  how  immediately  the  mate- 
rials of  the  fences  and  of  the  buildings,  as  far  as  they 
are  constructed  of  stone,  change  as  soon  as  the  geol- 
ogy of  the  country  changes.  For  some  miles,  after 
we  left  the  Talcott  mountain,  the  materials  of  these 
structures  continued  to  be  fragments  of  greenstone 
and  of  sand  stone  ;  but,  as  soon  as  we  crossed  the 
line  of  the  primitive,  these  stones  disappeared,  and 
gneiss  and  other  primitive  rocks  began  to  exhibit 
themselves  in  the  houses  and  fences.  Thus,  these 
structures  become  in  some  measure,  cabinets  of  the 
geology  of  a  country,  for,  the  people  will  of  course 
collect  those  stones  for  use,  which  are  most  preva- 
lent, and  in  many  instances,  they  will  be  loose  frag- 
ments of  the  most  prevailing  rocks  ;  or,  if  the  stones 


\ 


1 


30      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND     q,UEBG0. 

be  obtained  by  quarrying,  then  they   become  still 
surer  criteria  of  the  nature  ofthe  country. 


i;] 


Uk 


*'. 


ZEAL  FOR  CHURCHES. 

In  the  valley  of  Northington  we  passed  a  beautf- 
ful  new  meetinghouse.  It  is  a  handsome  specimen 
of  architecture,  and  is  one  of  three  places  of  public 
worship,  recently  erected  in  this  little  parish,  which, 
a  short  time  since,  had  only  one  miserable  ruinous 
house,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  forest. 

I  once  attended  public  worship  there  on  a  pleas- 
ant but  warm  summer  sabbath.  The  house  was  al- 
most imbowered  in  ancient  forest  trees  ;  it  was 
smaller  than  many  private  dwelling  houses — was 
much  dilapidated  by  time,  which  had  furrowed  the 
gray  unpainted  shingles  and  clapboards,  with  many 
water-worn  channels,  and  it  seemed  as  if  it  would 
soon  fall.  It  was  an  interesting  remnant  of  prime- 
val New-England  manners.  The  people,  evident- 
ly agricultural,  had  scarcely  departed  either  in  their 
dress  or  manners,  from  the  simplicity  of  our  early 
rural  habits.  I  do  not  mean  that  there  were  no  ex- 
ceptions, but  this  was  the  general  aspect  of  the 
congregation  ;  and,  from  the  smallness  of  the 
house,  although  there  were  pews,  it  seemed  rath- 
er a  domestic  than  a  public  religious  meeting. 
The  appearance  ofthe  minister  was  correspondent, 
to  that  of  the  house  and  congregation,  as  far  as  an- 


m 


% 


T,— .. 


W'. 


JEBCe. 

come  still 


i  a  beautf- 
J  specimen 
5  of  public 
sh,  which, 
le  ruinous 

n  a   pleas- 
ise  was  al- 
;s  ;  it  was 
uses — was 
rowed  the 
vith  many 
it  would 
of  prime- 
evident- 
er  in  their 
jur  early 
re  no  ex- 
of  the 
of    the 
led  rath- 
meeting, 
pondent, 
far  as  an- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   31 

tiquity  and  primeval  simplicity  were  concerned)  but 
htt  was  highly  respectable:  for  understauding,  and 
sustained,  even  in  these  humble  circumstances^  the 
dignity  of  his  station.  He  was  an  old  man,  with 
hoary  locks,  and  a  venerable  aspect,  a  man  of  God, 
of  other  times — a  patriarchal  teacher — not  caring 
for  much  balanced  nicety  of  phrase,  but  giving 
his  flock  wholesome  food,  in  sound  doctrine,  and 
plain  speech.  His  prayer^  had  that  detail  of  peti- 
tion— that  specific  application,  both  to  public  aid 
private  concerns,  and  that  directness  of  allusion,  to 
the  momentous  political  events  of  the  day,  and  their 
apparent  bearing  upon  this  people,  which  was  com- 
mon among  our  ancestors,  and  especially  among  the 
first  ministers,  who  brought  with  them  the  fervor  of 
the  times  when  they  emigrated  from  England. 

This  aged  minister  is  still  living,  but  since  the 
destruction  of  his  ancient  house,  and  the  division  of 
his  people,  he  is  without  any  particular  charge ;  still, 
however,  although  oppressed  with  the  infirmities  of 
advanced  life,  he  occasionally  officiates  in  public. 
Instead  of  the  ancient  house,  there  have  now  ariser> 
the  three  handsome  modern  churches. 

We  are  not,  however,  to  infer  that  increased  re- 
sources, nor  additional  zeal  for  religion  has  reared 
these  edifices;  it  was  the  effect  of  local  jealousies, 
as  to  the  place  where  a  new  house  should  be  built, 
and  how  often,  in  our  New-England  yillages,  do 
we  see  this  circumstance  produce  the  same  result, 
adding  to  the  beauty,  but,  perhaps,  not  always  to 
the  harmony  and  piety  of  the  neighbourhood. 


m 


U 


32   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOED  AND  QUEBEC. 

It  would  be  easy  to  give  a  considerable  list  ot 
towns  in  Connecticut,  where  two  spires  rise  instead 
of  one*  because  the  people  could  not  agree  where 
the  one  should  be  placed.  Happier  would  it  be,  if 
these  separations  had  always  been  free  from  animos- 
ity— if  they  had  not  sometimes  laid  the  foundation 
ef  permanent  discord,  and  if  there  had  been  no  in- 
stance of  outrageous  violence,  and  the  prostration  of 
all  law  and  order^  while  people  were  professing  only 
to  honor  their  Maker,  and  to  benefit  their  fellow 
men.  But  still,  who  that  is  friendly  to  the  best  in- 
terests of  mankind  can  fail  to  be  gratified,  with  the 
constant  succession  of  churches  and  spires  which  he 
observes  in  Connecticut,  and  who  would  not  prefer 
the  active  interest  that  is  manifested  on  this  subject, 
although  attended  with  occasional  irregularities — to 
that  apathy  which  permits  a  land  to  remain  without 
temples  to  the  living  God,  and  rarely  salutes  the  ear 
with  the  sound  of"  the  church  going  bell?^' 

Passing  through  a  part  of  Canton,  we  arrived  in 
a  cluster  of  houses,  handsomely  situated  on  the 
Farmington  River. 


k 


PECULIARITIES  IN  THE  MANNERS  OF  AMERICAN 

INNS. 

This  was  a  part  of  New-Hartford  where  we  din- 
ed pleasantly;  every  thing  was  good,  and  neatly  and 
well  prepared,  and  we  were  attended  by  one  of 
those  comely  respectable  young  women,  (a  daugh- 
ter of  the  landlord,)  who,  so  often,    in  our  public 


■i^ 


EBEC. 

ible  list  ot 
'ise  instead 
rree  where 
Id  it  be,  if 
>m  animos- 
foundation 
een  no  in- 
Dstration  of 
essing  only 
leir  fellow 
he  best  in- 
d|  with  the 
s  which  he 
not  prefer 
!iis  subject, 
iarities — to 
lin  without 
ites  the  ear 

• 

arrived  in 
ed  on  the 


i 


VIERICAN 

re  we  din- 
neatly  and 
by  one  of 
(a  daugh- 
>ur  public 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFOUD    AN1>    <tWEBEC.      33 

houses,  perform  these  services,  without  departing 
from  the  most  correct,  respectable,  and  amiable  de- 
portment. 

This  is  a  peculiarity  in  the  manners  of  this  coun- 
try which  is  not  at  once  understood  by  a  foreigner, 
and  especially  by  an  Englishman.  Such  a  person, 
if  uninstructed  in  the  genius  of  the  country,  almost 
of  course  presumes,  that  all  those  whom  he  sees  in 
public  houses  are  in  servile  situations.  If  he  adopt 
towards  them  an  imperious  and  harsh  manner,  he 
gives  offence,  and  produces  coldness,  and  possi- 
bly resentment,  so  that  the  interview  ends  in  mu- 
tual dissatisfaction.  If  the  traveller  should  write 
a  book,  he,  of  course,  enlarges  on  the  rudeness  of 
American  manners,  and  it  is  very  possible  that  even 
llie  servants  of  our  inns  may  give  him  some  oc- 
casion for  such  remarks,  if  they  are  treated  as  per- 
sons of  their  condition  commonly  are  in  Europe. 
Some  years  since,  to  an  Englishman  emigrating  fo 
America,  the  obvious  causes  which  often  disgust  the 
English,  and  ofTend  the  Americans  when  the  former 
are  travelling  among  the  latter,  and  especially  in  the 
smaller  towns  and  villages,  were  faithfully  pointed 
out.  It  was  strongly  recom«niin(led  to  him,  rather 
W  nsk  as  a  favour,  what  he  had  a  right  to  command 
as  a  duty — to  treat  the  heads  of  the  public  houses, 
with  marked  respect,  and  their  sons  and  daughters, 
who  might  ho  in  attendance,  and  even  the  servants, 
with  kindness  and  courtesy,  avoiding  the  use  of 
terms  and  epithets  which   might  imply  iiiferiot  t(y 


I 


34   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOHD  AND  QUEBEC. 


'I 
I-    I 


\ 


'\ 


and  servitude,  to  make  their  duties  as  light  as  pos- 
sible, to  raanifest  no  unpleasant  peculiarities,  and 
to  make  no  unreasonable  demands,  with  respect 
to  food,  wines  and  cookery.  He  was  assured, 
that  with  such  a  spirit,  he  would  be  treated  with 
respect  and  kindness — that  he  would  be  cheerfully 
served — that  the  best  the  house  afforded  would  be 
promptly  obtained  by  him,  and  should  he  ever  visit 
the  same  house  again,  that  he  would  probably  be  re- 
membered and  welcomed  with  cordiality.  It  was  sug- 
gested, that  he  must  indeed,  occasionally,  concede 
something  to  familiarity  and  curiosity,  but  that  with 
an  amiable  spirit  and  courteous  deportment,  he  would 
not  meet  with  rudeness  or  neglect,  or  have  occa- 
sion to  write  an  angry  sentence  concerning  the  Ame- 
ricans ;  and  he  was  told,  that  even  the  familiarity  and 
curiosity  which  are  sometimes  unpleasant,  would  be 
commonly  repaid,  by  the  communication  of  valua- 
ble local  information. 

As  the  gentleman  to  whom  these  remarks  were 
addressed,  was  gay,  and  had  been  a  military  man, 
he  was  cautioned  not  to  presume  thatan^  members, 
of  the  families  at  the  public  houses,  might  be  treat- 
ed with  levity,  for,  he  would  find  that  fathers  and 
brothers  were  at  hand,  and  pecuniary  considerations 
would  be  sacrificed,  at  once,  to  the  respectability  of 
the  house.  After  this  gentleman  had  travelled  four- 
teen months  in  the  United  States,  he  came  to  the 
town,  where  his  adviser  resided,  and  thanked  him 
for  his  cautions.     He  said  that  they  had  been  of  th* 


,  I 


tf' 


\ 


.» 


QUEBEC. 

light  as  pos- 
liarities,   and 
with  respect 
was  assured, 
treated   with 
e  cheerfully 
ed  would  be 
lie  ever  visit 
ibably  be  re- 
'.  It  was  sug. 
ly,  concede 
>ut  that  with 
mt,  he  would 
have  occa- 
»g  the  Ame- 
niliarity  and 
It,  would  be 
)n  of  valua* 

marks  were 
itary  man, 

members, 
It  be  treat- 
athers  and 
siderations 

lability  of 
elled  four* 
me  to  the 

nked  him 
een  of  th* 


Si 
1 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC.       35 

greatest  service  to  him,  that  he  had  found  the  pre- 
dictions fully  verified,  and  himself  treated  with  hos- 
pitality and  kindness,  while  he  had  seen  others  of 
his  countrymen,  pursuing  an  opposite  deportment, 
meet  with  very  unpleasant  treatment,  and  creating 
both  for  themselves  and  others,  perpetual  dissatis- 
faction. 


RIDE  TO  SANDISFIELD. 

In  the  afternoon,  during  a  ride  of  sixteen  miles, 
which  brought  us  to  Sandisfield,  in  Massachusetts, 
we  never  left  the  banks  of  the   Farmington  river, 
which,  owing  to   its  windings,  and  our   own,   we 
crossed  during  the  day,  no  fewer  than  seven  times, 
and  on  as  many  bridges.     We  had  now  left  the  Al- 
bany turnpike,  and  the  great  thoroughfare  of  popu- 
lation and  of  basiness,  and  purposely  deviated  into 
one  of  those   wildernesses,  which,  intersected  by 
roads,  and  sprinkled  with  solitary  houses,  afford  the 
traveller  an  interesting  variety,  and  easily  transport 
bira  back  in  imagination,  to  the  time  when  the  whole 
of  this  vast  empire  was  a  trackless  forest.     In  a  very 
hilly  and    almost  mountainous  region,  we   found  a 
delightful  road,  so  level,  that  our  horses  hardly  ever 
broke  their  trot ;  the  road    generally    followed  the 
river,  and  was  laid  out  with  few  exceptions,  on  the 
alluvial  bottom,  which  the  river  had  formed.     We 
passed  almost  the  whole  distance,  through  a  vast 
defile  in  the  forest,  which  every  where  bung  around 


'5 


w 


M 


A 


iG     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUEBEC, 


M 


( 

1 1 


■i 


us  in  gloomy  grandeur,  presenting  lofty  trees,  rising 
in  verdant  ridges,  but  occasionally  scorched  and 
blackened  by  fire,  even  to  (heir  very  tops,  and 
strongly  contrasted  with  the  diffs  and  peaks  of  rude 
rocks,  which  here  and  there,  rose  above  the  almost 
impervious  forest. 

This  tract  of  country  had  the  stillness  of  a  rural 
sceno,  imbosomed  in  mountains;  there  were  no 
villages,  and  the  few  scattered  farm  houses  were 
scarcely  near  enough,  even  for  rural  neighbourhood. 
Their  very  graves  were  solitary  :  little  family  cem- 
eteries several  tirties  occurred,  marked  by  whrte 
marbfe  monuments,  and  by  graves  covered  with 
the  richest  verdure,  while  the  gloomy  bier  stood, 
hard  by,  in  the  field,  ready  again  to  support  its  mel- 
ancholy burden. 

It  was  quite  dark  before  we  arrived  at  Smdis- 
field;^  wind,  rain  and  gloomy  portentous  clouds, 
driving  over  the  dark  hills,  might  have  made  our 
ride,  for  a  few  of  the  last  miles,  somewhat  anxiou?, 
but,  our  road  was  good,  and  the  welcome  light  of 
the  inn,  at  length  caught  our  eyes,  and  a  quiet  eve- 
ning, passed  with  our  pens  and  books,  beguiled  our 
time  till  the  hour  of  repose.  A  tolerable  house  was 
made  comfortable,  by  the  assiduity  and  kindness  of 
its  tenants,  and  our  sleep,  in  a  great  vacant  ball 
room,  was  not  much  interrupted  by  the  rain,  drop- 
ing  on  the  floor,  and  by  the  wind,  howling  throti,s;li 
broken  panes  of  glass. 

Sandisfirld  i"  thiitv-six  miles  fi'om  Harlforc' 


^ 
H 


^' 


QUEBEC 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.      37 


trees,  rising 
orched  and 
'  tops,  and 
iaks  of  rude 
i  the  almost 


I  of  a  rural 
e  were  no 
ouses  were 
[ibourhood. 
amily  cem- 
d  by  whfte 
leered  with 
bier  stood, 
ort  its  mel- 

at  Sandls- 

us  clouds, 

made  our 

Lt  anxious, 

light   of 

uiet  eve- 

uiled  our 

louse  was 

ndness  of 

leant   bull 

In,  drop- 

g  throua;^, 


I 


RIDE  TO  LENOX. 

Our  equinoctial  storm  still  continued,  and  we  set 
forward  before  eight  in  the  morning,  in  the  midst  of 
a  driving  rain.  But,  as  the  coachman  was  wrapped 
in  a  weather  proof  great  coat  of  oiled  silk,  and  we 
were  completely  protected  from  the  rain,  we  pursu- 
ed our  journey,  without  the  slightest  inconvenience. 

The  war  of  the  elements  corresponded  very  well 
with  the  wild  scenery  through  which  we  were  to 
pass.  For  ten  miles,  we  again  followed  the  course 
of  the  Farmington  river;  our  road  was  one  contin- 
ued vista,  through  an  uninterrupted  wilderness  of 
the  most  lofty  trees  ;  occasionally,  the  wide  forest- 
crowned  ridges  caught  our  eyes,  ns  they  showed 
theYnselves  through  the  openings  of  the  wood,  or 
towered  above  its  top  ;  but,  for  the  most  part,  the 
river,  now  much  diminished  in  size,  murmuring 
over  a  rocky  channel,  and  presenting  many  a  formi- 
dable barrier  of  drift  wood,  recently  accumulated 
by  an  unexampled  deluge  of  rain,  was  a  principal 
object  of  contemplation;  while  the  forests,  inter- 
spersed with  numerous  pine  trees,  rising  to  a  great 
height,  often  burnt  to  their  very  summits,  and  totter 
ing  to  their  fall,  appeared,  as  if,  only  recently  inva- 
ded by  man,  and  as  just  beginning  to  resign  its  soli- 
tary dominion,  to  the  axe  and  to  the  fire. 

The  river,  we  crossed  again   and 


agai 


we 


numborcd  the  ninth  lime,  and  then,  a  few  miles  from 
the  confines  of  Lenox,  we  traced  it  to  its  source,  in 

4* 


! 


V^- 


■  -^r-  • 


i 


39  TOUR  BETWEEN  MARTPORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

a  lake,  of  probably  half  a  mile  or  more  in  length. 
Thus  we  bade  adieu  to  our  littleriver,  after  having 
been  familiar  with  it  for  fortymiles,  and  for  near- 
ly thirty,  we  had  constantly  travelled  upon  its 
banks,  finding  a  smooth  road  in  the  midst  of  a  rug- 
ged country. 

To  those  who  would  wish  to  enjoy  an  interlude 
of  forest  scenery,  almost  in  the  wildness  of  nature, 
and  little  more  subdued  by  man,  than  is  necessary 
to  render  it  comfortable  to  travel  through,  this  ride, 
from  New-Hartford  through  Sandisfield,  to  Lenox, 
may  be  strongly  recommended.  Such  a  tract,  in 
the  midst  of  well  cultivated  regions,  is  in  this  coun- 
try rare,  and  probably  more  resembles  a  western 
wild,  than  a  district  in  an  old  and  populous  state. 

Soon  after  passing  this  lake,  the  country  began  to 
descend;  another  lake  of  greater  magnitude  occur- 
red on  our  left — a  river  soon  succeeded,  and  we 
recognized  these  waters,  as  the  first  of  those  which 
begin  to  feed  the  infant  Housatonick. 


CiKOLOGY. 

The  rocks  on  our  ride,  were,  almost  invariably, 
gneiss,  frequently  intersected  by  distinct  veins  of 
granite,  in  which  feldspar  generally  predominated. 
Not  far  from  Lenox  we  passed  two  forges,  the  iron 
ore  for  which  we  were  informed,  is  dug  out  of  the 
hills  in  the  vicinity  of  that  town. 


(< 


% 


EBEC. 


rOUR  BETWEEN  HARTfORD  AND  QUEBEC.   39 


in  length, 
iter  having 
I  for  near- 
upon  its 
t  of  a  rug- 

i  interlude 
)f  nature, 
necessary 

this  ride, 
:o  Lenox, 

tract,  in 
this  coun- 
a  western 
ous  state. 
'  began  to 
de  occur- 
I,  and  we 
se  which 


variably, 
veins  of 

minaled. 
the  iron 

It  of  the 


As  we  ascended  the  hills  on  which  Lenox  stands, 
white  primitive  limestone  began  to  appear,  in  de- 
tached masses,  in  spots  uncovered  by  quarrying,  and 
in  ridges  crossing  the  road  ;  the  strata  were  nearly 
vertical,  and  like  those  in  Litchfield  county,  in  Con- 
necticut, were  imbedded  in  gneiss. 


LENOX. 

Lenox,  the  capital  of  Berkshire  county,  is  a  town 
of  uncommon  beauty.  It  is  built  upon  a  high  hill, 
on  two  streets,  intersecting  each  other  nearly  at 
right  angles  ;  it  is  composed  of  handsome  houses, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  of  brick,  are 
painted  of  a  brilliant  white  ;  it  is  ornamented  with 
two  neat  houses  of  public  worship,  one  of  which  is 
large  and  handsome,  and  stands  upon  a  hill  higher 
than  the  town,  and  a  little  removed  from  it.  It 
has  a  jail,  a  woolen  manufactory,  a  furnace  for  hol- 
low ware,  an  academy  of  considerable  size,  and  a 
court  house  of  brick,  in  a  fine  style  of  architecure  ; 
it  is  fronted  with  pillars,  and  furnished  with  conven- 
ient offices  and  a  spacious  court  room  ;  this  room  is 
carpeted,  and  what  is  more  important,  contains  a  li- 
brary for  the  use  of  the  bar.  Lenox  has  fine  moun- 
tain air,  and  is  surrounded  by  equally  fine  mountain 
scenery.  Indeed,  it  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  our 
inland  towns,  and  even  in  the  view  of  an  European 
traveller,  (who  had  eyes  to  see  any  thing  beautiful,  in 
what  is  unlike  Europe,)  it  would  appear  like  a  gem 


•1 


^! 


"f  .^"^  ■ 


■|M     i 


■■..hi 


i 


■^ 


40   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

among  the  mountains.  There  are  probably  about 
70  houses,  stores,  and  shops.  Its  population  is  one 
thousand  three  hundred  and  ten.* 

White  marble  is  often  the  material  of  their  steps, 
foundations  and  pavements.  This  country  abounds 
wiih  primitive  white  limestone.     ' 

Our  dinner  and  treatment  at  the  inn,  were  such  as 
a  reasonable  traveller  would  have  been  very  well 
satisfied  with,  at  a  country  tavern  in  England.  Still, 
probably  no  small  town  in  England  is  so  beautiful 
as  Lenox,  nor  have  the  Europeans,  in  general,  any 
adequate  idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  New-England  vil- 
lages.f — Lenox  is  fifty-eight  miles  from  Hartford. 

RIDE  TO  NEW-LEBANON. 
As  we  ascended  a  mountainous  ridge,  two  miles 
on  the  road  to  New-Lebanon,  a  fine  retrospect  oc- 
curred. Immediately  below,  was  a  spacious  and 
deep  basin,  environed  by  mountains,  which,  reced- 
ing one  behind  another,  presented  in  one  view,  bril- 
liant forest  green,  in  another,  dark  hues,  almost 
black,  and  fiirther  off,  ridges  and  summits  struggling 
through  clouds  and  mist,  and  rain,  in  obscure  and 
gloomy  grandeur.  Beautifully  contrasted  with 
these,  was  the  bright  clustre  of  buildings  in  Lenox, 
compact,  blended  by  perspective  into  one  rich  group, 

*  Worcfster's  Gazetteer.  * 

t  "There  is  nothings  in  Britain  that  bears  any  resemblance  to  a 
New  England  town,  and  it  is  not  easy  to  convey  an  adequate  idea 
of  its  singular  neatnes?."-.Z)wncan'»  Trwelsin  the  United  Stales  f 
Ac.  1023.  Vol.  t,p.  93. 


\ 


U 


'% 


H 


V,. 


QUEBEC* 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.      41 


obably  about 
)uiation  is  one 

)f  their  steps, 
intry  abounds 

were  such  as 
Jen  very  well 
ngland.  Still, 
s  so  beautiful 
general,  any 
■England  vil- 
n  Hartford. 


e,  two  nwles 
respect  oc- 
pacious  and 
lich,  reced- 
5  view,  bril- 
ues,  almost 
s  struggling 
bscure  and 
asted    with 
5  in  Lenox, 
rich  group, 

emblance  to  a 
aJequate  idea 
Cnited  Stalest 


in  which  turrets,  and  Gothic  pinnacles  and  Grecian 
coluiniis  were  conspicuous,  decorating  the  declivity 
of  the  hill,  now  sunk  by  comparison,  to  one  of 
moderate  elevation. 

It  were  in  vain  to  attempt  to  describe  all  the  fine 
mountain  scenery,  which,  with  endless  variety,  was 
perpetually  occuring  and  perpetually  changing. 
Rich  vallies  and  basins,  were  every  where,  mixed 
with  the  hills  and  mountains,  on  whose  declivitiea 
and  summits,  cultivation  had  often  spread  scenes  of 
fertility  and  beauty. 

The  lofty  Saddle  mountain  with  its  double  sum- 
mit-—the  highest  mountain  in  this  region,  appeared 
at  a  distance  on  our  right ; — on  our  left,  the  fertile 
vales  of  Richmond,  a  scattered  agricultural  town,  and 
almost  before  we  were  aware  ot  it,  we  wound  our 
way  down  the  steep  declivity  of  the  mountain,  which 
bounds  the  southeast  side  of  the  vale  of  New-Leb- 
anon. We  had  already  passed  upon  our  right,  a 
small  village  belonging  to  the  people,  called  Sha» 
kers,  or  Shaking  ^uakers< 


Vn.LAGE  OF  THE  SIIAKEK5>. 

We  did  not  deviate  into  this  first  settlement,  be- 
cause their  principal  establishment,  in  this  quarter,. 
was  immediately  before  us,  and  we  were  indeed  not 
Inlly  clear  of  the  mountain,  before  We  found  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  their  singular  community. 
Their  buildings  are  closely  arranged,  along  a  street  of 


-^uxe^rt^  ^jtA^T^  T"  ""■ 


'  tk 


/  I; 


y  !/ 


\ 


[  i 


42      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND    q,I7EB£C. 

a  mile  in  length.     All  of  them  are  comfortable,  and 
a  considerable  proportion  are  large.     They  are,  al- 
most without  an  exception,  painted  of  an  ochre  yel- 
low, and,  although  plain,   they   make  a  handsome 
appearance.  The  utmost  neatness  is  conspicuous  in 
their  fields,  gardens,  court  yards,  outhouses,  and  in 
the  very  road  ;  not  a  weed,  not  a  spot  of  filth,  or  any 
nuisance  is  suffered  to  exist.     Their  wood  is  cut 
and  piled,  in  the  most  exact  order ;  their  fences  are 
perfect ;  even  their  stone  walls  are  constructed  with 
great  regularity,  and  of  materials  so  massy,  and  so 
well  arranged,  that  unless  overthrown  by  force,  they 
may  stand  for  centuries  ;  instead  of  wooden  posts 
for  their  gates,  they  have  pillars  of  stone  of  one  sol* 
id  piece,  and  every  thing  bears  the  impress  of  labour, 
vigilance  and  skill,  with  such  a  share  of  taste,  as  is 
«onsistent  with  the  austerities  of  their  sect.     Their 
orchards  are  beautiful,  and  probably  no  part  of  our 
country  presents  finer  examples  of  agricultural  ex- 
cellence.   They  are  said  to  possess  nearly  threa 
thousand  acres  of  land,  in  this  vicinity.     Such  neat- 
ness and  order  I   have  not  seen  any  where,  on  so 
large  a  scale,  except   in   \iolIand,  where  the  very 
Becessities  of  existence  ifMipose  order  and  neatness 
upon  the  whole  population  ;  but  here  it  is  volumary. 
Besides  agriculture,  it  is  well   known,  that  the 
Shakers  occupy  themselves  much,  with  mechanical 
employments.     The  productions  of  their  industry 
and  skill,  sieves,  brushes,  boxes,  pails  and  other  do- 
R^estic  utensils  are  every  where  exposed  for  sale,  and 


I 


at 
fi 

al 
bl 

ar 

fal 


% 


1  •  V 


'■"":'""*'**"•""  * — •♦■-'— »^  '—.—-^-.^M^ 


EBEC. 

table,  and 

5y  are,  al- 

)chre  yel- 

landsome 

»icuous  in 

IS,  and  in 

th,  or  any 

»d  is  cut 

?nces  are 

icted  with 

y,  and  so 

)rce,  they 

den  posts 

f  one  sol< 

oflabour, 

iste,  as  is 

.     Their 

Ft  of  our 

tural  ex- 

ly  three 

uch  neat- 

e,  on  so 

he  very 

neatness 

)luii\ary. 

that  the 

chanical 

industry 

>therdo- 

sale,  and 


TOCR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBECfi       43 

are  distinguished  by  excellence  of  workmanship. 
Their  garden  seeds  are  celebrated  for  goodness, 
and  find  a  ready  market.  They  have  many  gardens, 
but  there  is  a  principal  one  of  several  acres  which  I 
am  told  exhibits  superior  cultivation. 

Their  females  are  employed  in  domestic  manu- 
factures and  house  work,  and  the  community  is  fed 
^nd  clothed  principally  by  its  own  productions. 

The  property  is  all  in  common.  The  avails  of 
the  general  industry  are  poured  into  the  treasury  of 
the  whole ;  individual  wants  are  supplied  from  a 
common  magazine,  or  store  house,  which  is  kept 
for  each  family,  and  ultimately,  the  elders  invest 
the  gains  in  land  and  buildings,  or  sometimes  in 
money,  or  other  personal  property,  which  is  held 
for  the  good  of  the  society. 

It  seems  somewhat  paradoxical  to  speak  of  a 
family,  where  the  relation  upon  which  it  is  found- 
ed is  unknown.  But  still,  the  Shakers  are  assem- 
bled in  what  they  call  families,  which  consist  of  lit- 
tle collections,  (more  or  less  numerous  according  to 

•  the  size  of  the  house)  of  males  and  females,  who  oc- 
cupy separate  apartments,  under  the  same  roof,  and 
eat  at  separate  tables,  but  mix  occasionally  (or  soci- 

i  ety,  labour  or  worship.  There  is  a  male  and  a  fe- 
male head  to  the  family,  who  superintend  all  their 

f     concerns— give  out    their  provisions— allot   their 
employments,  and  enforce  industry  and  fidelity. 
The  numbers  in  this  village,  as  we  were  inform- 

l     ed  by  one  of  the  male  mumbers,  are  about  five  hun- 


u 


^.  t 


\ 


% 


44       TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFOUD    ANi>    (^LEBEl  . 


t. 


'.     ' 


drcd,  but  there  arc  said  to  be  (iftccn  hundred,  inclu- 
ding other  villages  in  this  vicinity.  Their  num- 
bers are  sustained  by  voluntary  recruits,  allured. 
it  is  said,  by  kindness,  to  join  the  society;  and  des- 
titute widows,  frequently^  come  in,  with  their 
children,  and  unite  themselves  to  this  commu- 
nity. Where  a  comfortable  subsistence  for  life, 
a  refuge  for  old  age,  and  for  infancy  and  childhood ; 
the  reputation  (at  least  with  the  order)  of  pie- 
ty, and  the  promise  of  heaven  are  held  out  to  view, 
it  is  no  wonder  that  the  ignorant,  the  poor,  the  be- 
reaved, the  deserted,  the  unhappy,  the  supersti- 
tious, the  cynical  and  even  the  whimsical,  should 
occasionally  swell  the  numbers  of  the  Shakers. 

Th6ir  house  of  public  worship  is  painted  white, 
and  is  a  neat  building,  whose  appearance,  would  not 
be  disreputable  to  any  sect. 

The  order,  neatness,  comfort,  and  thrift,  which 
are  conspicuous  among  them,  arc  readily  account- 
ed for,  by  their  industry,  economy,  self-denial  and 
devotion  to  their  leaders,  and  to  the  common  inte- 
rest, all  of  which  are  religious  duties  among  them, 
and,  the  very  fact  that  they  are  for  the  most  part, 
not  burdened  with  the  care  of  children,  leaves  them 
greatly  at  liberty,  to  follow  their  occupations  with- 
out interruption.* 

♦They  have  another  collection  of  house:  in  the  vicinity,  wliere 
1  was  told  they  place  offending  trembcrs,  who  bein^  uniler  disci- 
pline, are  for  the  time,  excluded  froai  the  community,  and  whona 


^ 


red, inclu- 
lieir  num- 
s,  allured. 
;  and  des* 
irith  thcir 
i  commu- 
e  for  life, 
childhood; 
r)  of  pie- 
it  to  view, 
>r,  the  be- 
supersti- 
al,  should 
liakers. 
ted  white, 
would  nut 

ift,  which 
'  account- 
enial  and 
Tion  inte- 
}ng  them, 
nost  part, 
Lves  them 
ons  with- 


iiity,  wliere 

mder  disci- 

aad  whom 


TOUR    BETWEEN    llARTFORB    AND    uUEBEc:.       45 

But — where  is  the  warrant,  either  in  reason  or  in 
scripture,  bj  which  whole  communities,  (not  here 
and  there,  individuals,  peculiarly  situated,)  with- 
draw themselves  from  the  most  interesting  and  im- 
portant of  the  social  relations  —  from  the  tender  char- 
ities of  husband  and  wife— from  the  delightful  assi- 
duities of  parental  love— from  that  relation,  on  which 
flociety  stands,  and  on  which  as  on  a  fruitful  stock, 
is  grafted,  every  personal  and  domestic  virtue,  and 
every  hope,  both  for  this  world  and  a  better!! 

By  what  right  are  they  empowered  to  recruit  their 
ranks,  thinned  from  time  to  time,  by  death,  by  drawing 
upon  the  social  world,  whose  obedience  to  the  first 

they  style  backsliders.  I  am  told  that  they  are  not  offended  by  being 
called  Shakers,  and  do  not  regard  it  as  an  opprobrious  epithet, 
Indeed,  1  have  never  heard  of  a  milder  or  more  respectable  name, 
tor  I  would  not  use  an  opprobrious  or  ludicrous  term,  to  designate 
a  community  distinguished  by  many  virtues.  --< 

t  More  is  not  here  attributed  to  the  institution  of  marriage,  than 
it  deserves,  for,  (o  try  the  question,  we  must  ask,  not,  what  is  the 
condition  of,  here  and  there,  a  convent  and  a  monastery,  or  of  a 
few  clusters  of  Stiake[*s  rotected  as  they  are  by  society, y<Min(/ec/ 
on  marriage,  and  drawinj  their  recruits  from  the  offaprino;  of  its 
virtuous  affectioQB.  We  mast  inquire  what  would  be  tLe  condi- 
tion of  the  world,  were  the  institution  of  marriage  entirely  aboitsfi- 
ed!  It  is  obvious,  that  ii  woula  soon  become  the  vniverial  theatre 
of  crimes,  of  every  description,  which  are  now  only  occasional,  and 
that  no  one  solitary  virtue  could  possibly  spring  ap,  or  be  cherish- 
ed. Piety  itself^  could  it  exist  in  such  a  state  of  things,  must  (if 
such  paradoxical  language  can  be  admitted,)  neceMariiy  becoute 
exclusively  selfish,  and  indeed,  it  could  find  no  refuse,  ex'  e^  t  in 
abstUHe  sedusiott,  in  the  dens  and  caves  of  the  earth. 


r 


u 


ir    .  I  (Ei.-* ':»>«' .'    im 


yu  !.•-:'        'iis  '     ?;jl«tj«|i':     I'd' 


.    *  ^.^•^.  >  r**^** 


►: —  -■■  -  y  >^  /y. 


M 


t. 


46    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND     (^VEBEC; 

law  of  God  and  nature,  they  condemn,  while  thej 
are  dependant  upon  it,  both  for  their  own  existence 
as  individuals,  and  for  the  continuance  of  their 
unnatural  community ;  however  commendable 
they  may  be  for  their  industrious,  moral  and  hu- 
mane deportment,  and  for  their  active  benevo* 
lence;  (for  which  they  are  certainly  highly  meri- 
torious ;)  the  principle  of  their  association  is,  in 
my  opinion,  deserving  of  severe  reprobation.  But 
happily,  their  example  is  very  little  in  danger  of 
general  imitation ;  mankind  will  not,  generally, 
be  persuaded  to  go  on  a  crusade,  or  to  suffer 
martyrdom,  in  the  cause  of  celibacy,  and  I  believe 
it  will  be  long  ere  the  world,  is  all  reformed,  by  be- 
coming a  generation  of  Shakers. 


<i»  t  .t 


NEW-LEBANON  MINERAL  SPRING. 

This  is  a  very  remarkable  fountain.  Unlike  most 
mineral  waters,  it  issues  from  a  high  hill;  the  wa- 
ter boils  up  in  a  space  of  ten  feet  wide,  by  three 
and  a  half  deep  ;  it  is  perfectly  pellucid,  so  that  a 
pin^s  head  might  be  seen  on  the  bottom  of  the  spring ; 
gas  in  abundance,  issues  from  among  the  pebbles, 
and  sand,  and  keeps  the  water  in  constant  and  pleas- 
ing agitation  ;  the  fountain  is  very  copious,  more  so 
by  far  than  any  spring  1  have  seen,  except  the 
springs  nt  Bath,  in  England  ;  the  water  discharged 
amounts  to  eighteen  barrels  in  a  minute,  and  not 
only  supplies  the  baths  very  copiously,  simply  by 


s 


I  M 


Xf 


mwmMmm 


rEBEC; 


rOUE   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    auEBEC.     47 


while  thej 
n  existence 
ce  of  their 
mmendable 
»ral  and  hu- 
ve  benevo- 
ighly  meri- 
aition  is,  in 
ation.  But 
n  danger  of 

generally, 
r  to  suffer 
id  I  believe 
Died,  by  be- 


G. 


Jnlike  most 
II;  the  wa- 
2,  by  three 
so  that  a 
jthe  spring ; 
e  pebbles, 
and  pleas- 
is,  more  so 
xcept  the 
ischai^ed 
, and  not 
imply  by 


Funning  down  hill  to  them,  but,  in  the  same  man- 
ner it  feeds  several  mills,  and  turns  the  water 
wheels  with  sufficient  power.  Owing  to  its  high 
temperature,  it  does  not  congeal  in  winter,  which 
gives  it  a  great  advantage  for  moving  machinery. 
The  quantity  of  water  is  constant,  and  varies  not 
perceptibly  in  any  season— so  is  its  temperature 
which  is  73°  of  Fahrenheit.  This  temperature, 
io  near  the  summer  heat,  makes  it  a  truly  ther- 
mal water,  and  causes  a  copious  cloud  of  con- 
densed vapour  to  hang  over  the  fountain,  when- 
ever the  air  is  cold.  There  is  no  film  to  be  seen 
upon  the  water,  it  apparently  deposits  nothing 
by  standing,  but  in  the  course  of  time,  there 
collects  in  its  channel,  an  earthy  or  stony  de* 
posit,  which  eventually  becomes  copious  and  hard. 

This  deposit  is  rapidly  made  in  the  tea  kettles, 
yrhicb  are  speedily  incrusted,  and  their  throats 
choaked  by  it ;  it  is  of  a  white  colour,  and  its  ori- 
gin can  scarcely  be  a  subject  of  wonder,  since  the 
fountain  issues  from  a  hill  of  lime  stone. 

The  water  is  perfectly  tasteless  and  inodorous — 
very  soft — does  not  curdle  soap — is  used  for  all  cu- 
linary and  domestic  purposes  — is  acceptable  to  ani- 
mals, ivhich  drink  at  the  stream  that  flows  in  a  riv- 
ulet down  the  hill,  and  apparently,  differs  little  from 
very  pure  mountain  water,  except  by  its  remarkable 
temperature  ;  that  of  the  contiguous  springs  in  the 

same  hill  is  as  low  as  that  of  any  mountain  springs 
— about  60°. 


i  I 


48   TOUR  BBTWKE;N  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

It  is  found  to  be  very  useful  in  salt  rheums  and 
various  other  cutaneous  affections — in  some  trouble* 
some  interna]  obstructions,  &c.  It  augments  the 
appetite,  and  sometimes  acts  as  a  cathartic.  The; 
bath,  if  used,  without  previously  guarding  the  stom- 
ach, by  a  draught  of  water,  sometimes  produces 
nausea.    ,  ;  . 

As  to  the  chemical  constitution  of  this  water, 
Professor  Griscom,  (in  1810)  from  the  application 
of  tests,  but  without  attemnting  a  regular  analysis, 
drew  certain  conclusions,  which  are  stated  in 
Bruce's  Journal  V.  1,  pa.  158.  :r»'f:. 

Dr.  William  Meade,*  from  a  regular  process  of 
analysis  infers,  that  the  Lebanon  Spring  contains; 
in  two  quarts  of  the  water — 

Muriat  of  Lime,    .        -        •         1  grain. 
MuriatofSoda,      -        -  13-4' 

'     Sulphat  of  Lime,   -        -        -         11-2 
Carbonat  of  Lime,  -        •  3-4   ^li  ■ 


Total,        -        -        5 

The  eriform   fluids  in   two  quarts  of  water,  he 
slates  thus:—  ^. 

•  See  the  appendix  to  Dr.  Meade's  Experimental  Inquiry  into 
the  Chemical  Properties  and  Medicinal  Qualities  of  the  Ballston 
and  Saratoga  Waters. 


\  ^ 


EBEC. 

aeums  and 
le  trouble- 
;ment8  the 
rtic.  The 
;  the  stom* 
produces 

bis  water, 

ipplication 

r  analysis, 

stated    in 

process  of 
I  contains; 

]  grain. 
1  3-4  i 
1  1-2 

3-4 


water,  he 


uquiry  into 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFOKO  AND  QUEBEC   49 

Azotic  gas,  (or  nitrogen,)  13  cubic  inches. 
Atmospheric  air,     -    -     8  do.        do. 


tl 


Dr.  Meade  remarks  that  the  Lebanon  water  ig 
M  purer  than  most  natural  waters,  and  purer  than  the 
contiguous  springs,  which  flow  from  the  same  hill. 
Its  temperature  appears  therefore  to  be  the  only  pe- 
culiarity to  which  any  medical  virtues  can  be  attach- 
ed. It  is  beyond  a  doubt,  that  tepid  waters,  not 
stronger  in  mineral  ingredients  than  the  Lebanon 
I  water,  do  produce  salutary  effects,  as  at  Bristol  and 
Buxton  in  £ngland.  The  Buxton  water  is  very 
similar  to  that  at  Lebanon ;  it  is  very  copious  and  a 
little  warmer.  Being  there  some  years  since,  1  was 
forcibly  struck  with  the  abundance  and  purity  of  the 
water  and  with  the  fine  atmosphere  and  features  of 
the  country.  As  to  picturesque  scenery,  it  is  how- 
ever inf«jrior  to  New-Lebanon,  and  it  is  probable 
that  there  is  not  a  mineral  spring  in  the  world,  sur- 
rounded  by  finer  Landscapes  than  this. 

Not  expecting,  when  I  left  home,  to  visit  any 
mineral  spring,  I  had  to  regret  that  I  had  no  rea- 
gents or  instruments  of  analysis  with  me.  I  brought 
only  instruments  necessary  for  mineralogical  and 
geological  observations. 

The  gas  which  issues  from  the  spring,  is  so  copi- 
ous, that  I  could  easily  collect  it  in  the  usual  man- 


V 


I  ill 


oO      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND     (QUEBEC. 


w 


I 


I 


/! 


i\ 


>  ^ 


1 


1     ^' 


It 


ner,  in  bottles  filled  with  the  water  of  the  fountain, 
and  inverted  in  it,  with  funnels  in  their  mouths. 

I  ascertained  that  the  gas  readily  extinguishes  a 
candle— smoke,  mingled  with  it,  descenls  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vessel,  and  docs  not  rest  upon  it,  as  in  car- 
bonic acid  ;  the  gas  does  not  readily  run  from  the 
mouth  of  an  inverted  bottle,  on  to  a  burning  can- 
dle, but  if  the  candle  be  held  close  to  the  mouth  of 
the  bottle,  it  is  extinguished  as  the  gas  passes  out. 
f  am  therefore  of  opinion  with  Dr  Meade,  that  the 
gas  is  azot.  Indeed,  as  he  justly  rem&rks,  the  fact 
that  the  water  is  not  acidulous  or  sparkling,  although 
the  gas  that  rises  through  it  is  very  abundant ;  that 
it  does  not  trouble  lime  water,  and  is  not  at  all  ab- 
sorbed by  it,  and  that  it  does  not  redden  litmus  pa- 
per, sufficiently  proves  that  the  gas  contains  no  car- 
bonic acid.* 

Azot  probably  imparts  no  virtues  to  mineral  wa- 
ters as  it  is  insoluble  in  water.     Still  it  is  found  in 

*  The  proprietor  of  the  spring,  rurnished  me  with  a  quantity 
of  the  solid  matter,  depos:ted  by  boiling  the  water  in  tea  kettles. 
I  find  that  it  dissolves  in  nitric  acid  with  great  rapidity,  and  with 
a  very  active  effervescence,  leaving  only  a  small  residuum.  The 
saturated  solution  is  intensely  bitter — gives  a  dense  precipi- 
tate with  fluHt  of  ammonia,  and  with  sulphuric  acid  becomes 
r^olid,  so  that  tht*  glass  was  inverted  without  dropping  a  particle. 
This  residuum  from  the  evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  tea  ket- 
tles, IS  tasteles — insoluble  in  water,  and  remains  unaltered,  even 
iu  a  damp  air.  All  these  facts  show  it  to  be  principally  carbonat 
uf  lime  :  tiie  muriatsi  which  Dr.  Meade  found,  woald  of  course  be 
Femoved  by  the  boiling  water. — May,  1820. 


I 


.^sTjSS- 


UEHCC. 

e  fountain, 
)uths. 
Inguishes  a 
to  the  bot- 
t,  as  in  car- 

from  the 
irning  can- 
s  mouth  of 
passes  out. 
le,  that  the 
^s,  the  fact 
^,  ahhough 
dant ;  that 
i  at  all  ab- 

litmus  pa- 
ins no  car- 

ineral  wa- 
found  in 

a  quantity 
tea  kettles. 

ty,  anJ  with 
uum.    The 

nse  precipi- 

ciil  becumet 

a  particle. 

the  tci  kcl- 

tered,  eveu 

ly  carbonat 

of  course  bf 


TOU&   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC,     51 

many,  especially  of  the  warm  springs.  Bath  water, 
which  boils  up  with  great  agiation,  owes  this  move- 
ment in  part  to  azot,  but  perhaps  more  to  the  aque- 
ous vapour,  for  the  water  is  at  the  temperature  of 
116*^  of  Fah.  when  it  first  emerges,  and  is  probably 
much  hotter  below. 

We  know  that  this  spring  has  flowf  d  thus  hot, 
more  than  two  thousand  years  ;  what  is  the  cause  f 
There  are  no  relics  of  volcanoes  here,  nor  other 
marks  of  subterranean  heat,  except  those  afforded 
by  the  water  itself.  \ 


SCENERY  OF  NEW  LEBANON. 

Had  this  remarkable  place  been  situated  in  Eu- 
rope, tourists  would  have  pronounced  its  panegyric, 
and  poets  would  have  made  it  famous,  as  Windsor 
or  Richmond  Hill,  or  as  the  little  Isle  in  Loch  Ka- 
trin. 

Few  places  have  fallen  within  my  observation, 
which  combine  both  the  grand  and  the  beautiful,  in 
a  hiijhcr  dejjree,  than  the  basin  of  New  Lebanon. 
Embosomed  in  mountains,  (at  this  time  capped  with 
dark  clouds,  which,  with  their  lofty  and  apparently 
impassable  barriers,  seem  to  shut  it  out  from  the  rest 
of  the  world) — verdant  and  beautful  inits  slopes,and 
in  the  plain  by  which  they  are  tcrmitiated,  and  ex- 
hibiting a  villati;e,  with  a  handsome  church  and  stee- 
ple in  the  bottom  of  the  bai«in,  it  powerfully  brought 


} 


.)i> 


52   TOUR  BETWHEN  HARTFORD  AWD  QUEBEC. 


{t 


'I 


to  my  recollection,  the  valley  of  Castleton,  in  the 
Peak  of  Derbyshire.  Between  the  two,  there  is 
certainly  a  striking  resemblance,  but  with  some 
points  of  disparity. 

The  Derbyshire  mountains  are  more  lofty,  and 
of  course  more  grand — those  of  New-Lebanon, 
while  they  are  cultivated,  in  some  places  to  their 
summits,  are  also  extensively  crowned  with  forests, 
while  the  Derbyshire  mountains  are  naked  as  a  hil- 
lock, shorn  by  the  scvthe.  The  New-Lebanon  scen- 
ery resembles  also,  that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cele- 
brated springs  of  Bath,  in  England. 

At  New-Lebanon,  the  principal  lodging-house  is 
situated  on  the  slope  of  one  of  the  high  hills.  The 
view  from  the  gallery,  in  the  front  of  this  house  ie 
very  fine,  and  much  resembles  that  from  the  Cres- 
cent at  Bath  ;  from  the  latter,  you  see  a  beautiful 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  highly  cultivated  and  ver- 
dant, and  possessing  more  wood  than  is  common  in 
England,  but  the  view  at  Bath,  although  perhaps 
more  beautiful,  from  cultivation,  is  less  extensive, 
and  less  magnificent  and  grand,  than  that  at  New- 
Lebanon. 

On  the  side  of  the  New-Lebanon  basin,  opposite 
to  the  spring,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  and  an 
half,  upon  the  declivity  of  the  mountain,  and  near 
its  base,  is  the  Shakers^  village,  which,  with  its 
green  fields  and  neat  houses,  is  a  pleasing  object,  in 
the  outline  of  the  picture.  Nearer  still,  (as  1  have 
already  remarked.)  and  in  the  very  bottom  of  the 


S 


EBEC. 


reuU  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  ANB  QUEBEC.   ^3 


ton,  in  the 
>,  there  ie 
with  some 

lofty,  and 
-Lebanon, 
2s  to  their 
ith  forests, 
id  as  a  hil- 
mon  scen- 
r  the  cele- 

5-house  is 
lis.  The 
s  house  is 
the  Cres- 

beautiful 
and  ver- 
)mrnon  in 

perhaps 
ixtensive, 

at  New- 
opposite 
s  and  an 
and  near 

with  its 
>bjec(,  in 
IS  I  have 
1  of  the 


basin,  is  the  handsome  village  of  New-Lebanon, 
composed  of  neat  white  houses,  and  a  church,  with 
a  spire  ;  and  all  around,  are  the  grand  slopes  of 
mountains,  which  limit  the  view  on  every  side,  and 
present  fields,  woods  and  rocks,  and  bold  ridges, 
upon  which  the  clouds  oAen  repose. 

Bristol  spring,  in  England,  is  surrounded  by  the 
fme  scenery  of  the  Avon,  and  the  romantic  rock  of 
St.  Vincert  \  oends  over  it,  with  a  good  degree  of 
grandeur;  uut  even  this  scene  is  very  limited,  com- 
pared with  that  of  New-Lebanon,  and  when  at  the 
Bristol  spring,  the  observer  is  in  a  deep  channel,  by 
the  side  of  the  river,  and  shut  out  completely  from 
all  prospect.  From  the  top  o(  St.  Vincent's  rock, 
and  from  every  part  of  Clifford,  and  the  other  emi- 
nences around  Bristol,  and  indeed  from  the  upper 
street  of  the  town  itself,  there  are  the  finest  views. 
The  famous  springs  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga  have 
much  fewer  advantages  of  scenery,  and  their  princi- 
pal attractions  are  those  presented  by  the  medicinal 
powers  of  the  waters,  by  good  cheer,  and  by  genteel 
company ;  the  first  of  these  advantages  is  very  great, 
and  those  springs  are  without  doubt,  one  ofthcgreat- 
est  natural  bounties  of  heaven  to  this  country.  The 
other  two  may  be  enjoyed  at  New-Lebanon,  where 
we  found  pleasant  company,  and  a  house  extreme- 
ly comfortable,  in  every  thing  except  the  beds, 
which  were  very  hard.* 

I,    ♦  f  im  told  Ihcy  are  now  very  wood.    18'21 


A 


>t.r^\ 


V' 


/ 


54   TOVn  BETWBSN  BARTFORD  AND  QUEBSC. 

For  those  who  wish  to  enjoy  fine  rural  scenery, 
bold,  picturesque  and  beautiful,  with  the  best  moun- 
tain air,  and  such  advantages  to  health,  as  this  co- 
pious fountain  presents,  nothing  can  be  better  in  its 
kind  than  New-Lebanon.  Its  waters  must  be  ad- 
mirable for  bathing. 

New-Lebanon  spdng  is  twelve  miles  from  Lenox, 
and  seventy  miles  from  Hartford. 

It  is  situated  just  within  the  limits  of  the  state 
«f  New-York,  three  or  four  miles  from  the  state  of 
Massachusetts,  and  thirty  or  more  from  Connecti- 
cut. A  stone  similar  to  a  mile^stone,  denoting  the 
boundary  line  between  the  states  of  Massachusetts 
and  New- York,  stands  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain, 
as  we  descend  towards  the  village  of  the  Shakers. 

In  the  valley  of  New-Lebanon  there  is  a  family 
vault,  which  struck  us  on  entering  the  village.  It 
if  a  neat  cemetery,  covered  by  a  high  mound ;  a 
marble  table  lies  on  the  top,  and  (what  constitutes 
its  singularity,)  it  has  a  flag  staff,  similar  to  those  in 
forts ;  we  supposed  it  must  be  a  mausoleum  for 
fome  military  man,  but  we  were  informed  that  it 
was  the  vault  of  a  private  family,  of  the  name  of 
Hand,  and  that  whenever  any  member  of  the  fami- 
ly dies,  a  black  flag  is  hoisted  on  the  flag-stafl*. 


RIDE  TO  ALBANY. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  at  the  New-Leba- 
non spring,  the  equinoctial  storm,  which  had  never 


■0 

M 


; 


TOUft   BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AN^    QUEBEC.      Sit 


i 


''it 


■1 


deserted  us,  poured,  literally,  floods  of  rain  ;  they 
ran  in  torrents  down  the  steep  hills  of  New-Leba- 
non, while  the  black  clouds  and  the  clusters  of  va- 
por hung  over  the  tops  and  around  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  or,  driven  by  the  gusts  of  wind,  swept 
with  gloomy  grandeur,  along  the  frowning  ridges. 
It  appeared  as  if  we  were  imprisoned  for  the  day, 
and  we  solaced  ourselves  with  the  pleasant  society 
of  the  small  but  intelligent  party  which  we  found 
at  the  Springs. 

About  ten  oVlock,  the  rain  so  far  ceased  that  we 
resumed,  and  afterwards  continued  our  ride,  al- 
though rain  and  sun-shine,  and  alternate  currents  of 
hot  and  cold  air,  made  it  a  day  of  singular  fluctua- 
tion. 

Stephen -Town,  Nassau  and  Schodack,  through 
which  we  passed,  presented  nothing  particularly  in- 
teresting. At  Greenbush,  we  observed  the  eitea- 
sive  barracks,  erected  during  the  late  war,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  United  States*  troops  ;  being 
white,  and  standing  upon  elevated  grouud  they  make 
a  pleasing  appearance-^aside  from  the  pensive  sen- 
sations, associated  with  all  military  spectacles.  Near 
the  river,  we  examined  an  abandoned  pit,  dug  for 
ooal,  and  a  sulphureous  mineral  water  ;  the  latter  has 
been  considerably  spoken  of,  but,  on  the  present  oc- 
casion, was  weak  both  in  taste  and  smell,  owing,  1 
suppose,  to  the  recent  heavy  rains,  and  to  its  being 
left  without  any  shelter  to  protect  it  from  the  weath- 
er.    Some  winters  since,  a  bottle  of  it  which  had 


/* 


\  ■ 


I 


1;   m 


It 


SG     TOUR    BET  WEEK    HAllTPOlU)    AN*    QVBBE(J. 


1      f 


been  brought  to  me,  happened  to  freeze,  and  broke, 
when  the  offensive  hepatic  gas  filled  the  house  to 
Hie  no  small  annoyance  of  the  family.  • 

From  the  barracks,  we  descended  a  considerable 
hill,  before  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  river  ;  a 
horseboat  conveyed  us  over  the  Hudson,  and  before 
night,  we  were  safely  landed  at  a  very  comfortable 
house  in  the  city  of  Albany.         ''^^  "  >  '•  j 


H    !■ 


J  4  in  i.  .: , 


ij-  i. 


•*y?  .»•!' 


.„-i,\ 


if 


1^) 


/ 


^ 


GEOLOGY. 


At  New-Lebanon,  a  few  miles  east  of  the  springs, 
the  geology  of  the  country  undergoes  a  great  change, 
and  the  whole  tract,  thence  to  Albany,  is,  without 
doiibt,  a  tranisition  country.  Bluish  gray  transition 
lime  stone,  in  immense  strata,  traversed  by  white 
veins  of  calcareous  spar,  is  found  at  New-Lebanon. 
Its  texture  is  nearly  compact,  its  structure  slaty,  and 
its  inclination  to  the  horizon  considerable.  Grau- 
wackd  makes  its  appearance,  about  seven  miles  on 
the  road  towards  Albany,  and  continues  to  be  abun^ 
dant  at  intervals.  Common  transition  slate  and  a 
red  slaty  rock  of  a  very  fine,  and  indeed  almost  im- 
perceptible grain,  apparently  between  a  sand  stone 
and  a  slate  are  abundant.  The  strata  on  the  road 
are  in  many  places,  much  decomposed.  The  slate 
thrown  out  of  the  pit  at  Greenbush,  where  the  exca- 
vation was  made  for  cocil,  is  evidently  transition 
ftiw  n!^'fi^t»■^,    fa   -.'Umi*  «  .^.wv.^  -^i\"r\vfi  ';mo{*!      .iv 


rOUR    BETWEEN    HARTPOllD    ANlJ    ^tEBfiC.    5t 


;jlate,  having  often  a  tortuous  appearance  and  a  glis- 
tening surface,  as  if  covered  with  a  varnish  or  with 
plumbago.  It  is  just  such  slate  as  is  found  in  con- 
nexion with  the  anthracite  of  Rhode-Island.  It  ap- 
pears therefore,  that  good  bituminous  coal  is  not  f6 
be  expected  at  Greenbush  ;  the  incombustible  coal, 
the  anthracite,  may  indeed  be  found,  but  it  wOukI 
be  much  less  valuable  than  the  other  kind.    «  '  *^  r>' 

I  have  several  times  had  occasion  to  reraafk,  thdt 
the  picturesque  features  of  a  country  depend  very 
much  on  its  geology.  This  remark  is  particularly 
verified  by  the  country  just  spoken  of.  After  leav- 
ing New-Lebanon,  we  soon  lose  that  bold  scenery 
which  I  have  described,  and  which  often  so  emin- 
ently characterises  primitive  countries.  The  tran- 
sition lime-stone,  f  am  aware,  is  occasionally  Alpine 
in  its  appearance,  as  in  the  Peak  of  Derbyshire,  and 
it  is  so  in  the  New-Lebanon  basin. 

But,  the  transition  and  slaty  formation,  which  im^ 
mediately  succeeds,  presents  hills  of  moderate  ele- 
vation, without  ridges,  peaks,  defiles  or  deep  hol- 
lows, and  bounded  by  gentle  outlines  and  large 
curves.  It  would  be  too  much  to  say,  thai  this  is 
the  invariable  character  of  transition  countries,  but 
compared  with  the  primitive  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity, I  believe  they  usually  possess  this  appearance. 

VVe  must  not,  however,  insist  with  too  much  rigor 

upon  the  application  of  the  systematic  arrangements 

of  other  countries  to  this.     Many  parts  of  our  primi- 

6 


,(*   r 


'I 

,■'1 
V 


m 


I- 


"> . 


-4. 


J0' 


I  I 


'■■.) 


58     TOUR    BETWEEN    BAHTFORD    AND    llUEBEIi;. 

tive  formations,  occupy  a  low  level,  and  some  of 
our  primitive  slaty  rocks  are  not  highly  inclined  in 
relation  to  the  horizon. 

The  ridges  of  greenstone  trap  at  Greenfield,  in 
Massachusetts,  are  higher  than  the  granite  ofNorth- 
iield  and  Montague,  in  the  same  vicinity,  and  atLev- 
erett,  the  granite  is  low,  and  the  puddingstone  rises 
to  the  heighth  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  and  far 
above  the  granite.  The  Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  in 
the  southern  part  of  Deerfield,  is  composed  of  con- 
glomerate, and  is  five  hundred  feet  high  above  the 
contiguous  plain.  Mount  Toby,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  in  Sunderland,  is  between  eight  and 
nine  hundred  feet  high,  and  these  hills  are  higher 
than  the  greenstone,  granite  and  other  rocks  in  that 
region.* 


ALBANY. 

Albany  contains  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  in- 
habitants,f  and  is  the  secondcity  in  the  state  (we 
might  almost  say  empire,)  of  New- York.  Its  lati- 
tude is  42*  38'  N. ;  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
from  New- York,  and  one  hundred  sixty-four  from 

*  See   Mr.  Hitchcock's  account  of  Deerfield,  &c.— American 
Journal  of  Science,  &c.— Vol.  L 


1 12,63©  in  1820.— Ji#or«e'ff  Giograpfn,. 


\  u 


,,  u 


— American 


SOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.       59 

Boston.  It  rises,  for  the  most  part,  rapidly  from 
the  river,  and  exhibits  a  very  handsome  appearance 
from  the  Greenbiish  side.  The  greater  part  of  the 
population,  however,  is  on  the  flat  ground,  immedi- 
ately contiguous  to  the  river,  where  the  Dutch,  who 
founded  the  town,  first  commenced  building,  agree- 
ably to  their  established  habits  in  HoUana.  In- 
stances are  innumerable,  where  people  continue 
from  habit,  what  was  at  first  begun  from  necessity, 
and  this  se<?ms  to  have  been  the  fact  in  the  present 
case.  The  town  extends  about  two  miles  north 
and  south,  on  the  river,  and  in  the  widest  part, 
nearly  one  mile  east  and  west.  It  is  perfectly  com- 
pact— closely  built,  and  as  nr  as  it  extends,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  great  cit)  .  1 1  has  numerous  streets, 
lanes,  and  alleys.,  und  in  all  of  thorn,  there  is  the 
same  closeness  o'  buUding,  and  the  same  city-like 
appearance. 

The  principal  streets,  and  especially  Market, 
State  and  Pearl  streets,  are  spacious,  and  the  hous- 
es in  general,  are  handsome  and  commodious ;  ma- 
ny are  large,  and  a  few  are  splendid.  State-street 
is  very  wide,  and  rises  rapidly  from  the  river,  up  a 
considerably  steep  hill.  The  Capitol  stands  at  the 
head  of  h  This  is  a  large  and  handsome  buildkig 
of  stone,^  furnished  with  good  rooms  for  the  govern- 

*  i  could  uot  but  regret  that  the  tessellated  marble  pavement  of 
line  vestibule,  otherwise  very  handsome,  was  shamefully  dirtied 
by  tobacco  spittle :  such  a  thing  would  not  be  suffered  in  Europe. 
It  ia,  however,  unfortunately,   only  a  sample  of  the  too  ^enentl 


% 


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\   1 


60   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qVEBEC  . 

mieDt  and  courts  of  law;  in  the  decorations  and  fur- 
niture of  some  of  these  apartments,  there  is  a  good 
degree  of  elegance,  and  even  some  splendor. — 
There  is  also  a  State  Library,  just  begi^n ;  it  does 
not  yet  contain  one  thousand  volumes,  but  they  are 
well  selected,  and  a  fund  of  five  hundred  dollars 
per  annum  is  provided  for  its  increase,  besides  three 
thousand  dollars  granted  by  the  legislature  to  com- 
mence the  collection. 

The  view  from  the  Balcony  of  the  Capitol  is 
rich  and  magnificent :  the  mountains  of  Vermont 
and  of  the  Catskill  are  the  most  distant  objects,  and 
the  banks  of  the  river  are  very  beautiful,  on  ac- 
count of  the  fine  verdure  and  cultivation,  and  of 
the  numerous  pretty  eminences,  which  bound  its 
meadows. 

.  The  Academy  of  Albany,  situated  on  the  Capi- 
tol Hill,  is  a  noble  building  of  Jersey  free  ctone. 

Although  it  has  (as  stated   to  me  by  Dr.  B ) 

cost  ninety  thousand  dollars,  only  the  lower  rooms 
are  finished.  School  are,  however,  maintained,  in 
it,  for  nearly  two  hundred  children,  and  it  is  pros- 
perous, under  the  able  direction  of  Dr.  T.  R.  Beck, 
and  several  assistant  teachers. 

This  Institution  was  erected  at  the  expence  of 
the  city  of  Albany,  aitd  is  honourable  to  its  munifi- 
cence, although  a  plainer  building,   which,  when 

treatment  of  public  buildings,  nncl  places  in  the  United  States, 
and  const iiuiRs  no  peculiar  topic  of  reproarh«  in  this  iastaauc  ; 
but  it  is  particularly  offensive  iu  !o  fine  tt  building. 


1 


!i 


%.i 


EBEC. 

ns  and  fur- 
»  is  a  good 
)lendor. — 
i;  it  does 
It  they  are 
ed  dollars 
ildes  three 
e  to  com- 

Oapitol  is 
Vermont 
jects,  and 
If  on  ac- 
n,  and  of 
bound  its 

ihe  Capi- 
36  Etone. 

.B ) 

;r  rooms 
ained,  in 
is  pros- 
it Beck, 

>ence  of 
muni6- 
)}  when 

eil  Slatos, 
iostaooo ; 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   61 

completely  finished,  would  have  cost  much  less 
money,  would  probaliiy  have  been  equally  useful, 
and  might  have  left  them,  out  of  their  ninety  thou- 
sand dollars,  a  handsome  fund,  in  addition  to  what 
they  now  possess. 

There  is  a  large  and  convenient  brick  building 
for  a  Lancasteriaii  school,  but  I  did  not  go  into  it.* 

Among  the  interesting  things  of  Albany  is  the 
seat  of  the  late  General  Schuyler,  situated  quite  in 
the  country,  at  the  south  end  of  the  town.  It  is 
memorable,  principally,  from  its  historical  associa- 
tions. It  was  the  seat  of  vast  Siospitality  and  the 
resort  of  the  great  men  of  the  revolution. 

Even  Gen.  Burgoyne,  with  his  principal  officers, 
was  lodged  and  entertained  there,  after  his  surren- 
der, although  he  had  devastated  Gen.  Schuyler's 
beautiful  estate  at  Saratoga,  and  burned  his  fine 
country  seat. 

The  house  of  the  late  Gen.  Schuyler,  is  spacious 
and  in  its  appearance  venerable ;  it  has,  long  since, 
passed  away  from  the  family  and  is  now  possessed 
hy  a  furrier. 

At  the  opposite,  or  northern  extremity  of  Albany, 
and  almost  equally  in  the  country,  is  situated  the 
seat  of  the  patroon.  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer. 
It  is  well  known,  that  he  possesses  a  vast  patrimo- 
nial estate  of  forty  miles  square,  lying  in  the  vicinity 
of  Albany,  which  has  descended,  unbroken,  from 

•  1  vi?itcd  it  n^erwaril!.  anJ  w.-x^  much  grntiflod  by  scoiujr 
^cveral  hundrecl  rhildren  receiving  instruction  in  lbi:i  building. 
1824. 


f 


J 


»\ 


I 


62     TOUR  BEtwEii-V  HAAtroiin  and  Quebec. 

his  early  American  ancestors.  Such  a  phenome- 
non, in  a  republican  country,  is  very  remarkable, 
and  cannot  fail,  in  spite  of  our  early  prejudices,  y:-)i 
the  strong  bias  of  national  feelings,  to  excite  a  de- 
gree of  admiration,  if  not  of  veneration.  We  are 
still  more  disposed  to  indulge  these  feelings,  when 
we  find  the  hereditary  possession  of  such  wealth, 
associated  with  distinguished  excellence,  in  public 
and  private  life,  with  the  most  amiable  and  unassu- 
ming manners,  and  with  a  princely,  although  dis- 
criminating liberality. 

The  house,  (which  was  built  by  the  father  of  the 
present  patroon,)  is  a  palace.  It  stands  on  the  flat 
ground,  by  the  river,  and  looks  down  Market  street, 
which  here  terminates  abruptly.  The  house  has  in 
the  rear,  nothing  but  green  fields  and  beautiful  rural 
scenes.  It  is  imbowered  in  groves,  and  shrubbery, 
and  reminded  me  powerfully,  of  some  of  the  fine 
villas  in  Holland,  to  which,  both  in  situation  and 
appearance,  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance. 

Among  the  gentry  and  professional  and  literary 
men  of  Alb"  /,  there  are  individuals  of  distinguish- 
ed eminence.  But,  eminent  men,  of  our  own  time 
and  country,  are  rather  too  near,  for  much  minute- 
ness of  delineation.  Were  it  not  for  the  restraint 
thus  imposed  by  delicacy,  it  would  be  a  task,  by  no 
means  ungrateful,  to  (]raw  likenesses  from  the  life, 
and  to  exhibit  the  combined  efi^ect  of  talent,  learn- 
ing, and  social  virtues.  An  American  in  Europe, 
is  free  from  this  embarrassment,  and  should  he 
here  discover  a  mind  of  amazing  vigor  and  activi- 


# 


EBEC. 

phenome- 
emarkable, 
Jdices,  :v)i 
!j^cite  a  ue- 
We  are 
ings,  when 
ch  wealth, 

in  public 
id  unassu- 
lough  dis- 

lier  of  the 
on  ihe  flat 
ket  street, 
>use  has  in 
JtifuJ  rural 
brubber}, 
i'  the  fine 
ation  and 

J  literary 
slinguish- 
own  time 
minute- 
restraint 
sk,  by  no 
the  life, 
It,  learn- 
Europe, 
ioutd  he 
d  activi- 


iOUK  BETWEEN  HARTFOKO  AND  QUEBEC.   63 

t,y — always  glowing — always  on  the  wing — replete 
with  various  and  extensive  knowledge,  flowing  out 
in  the  most  rapid,  ardent,  and  impressive  eloquence, 
while  simplicity  and  familiarity  of  manners  were  as- 
sociated with  a  high  minded  integrity,  and  indepen- 
dence,  he  would  fearlessly  pronounce  the  possessor 
of  such  qualities  an  original  and  captivating  man. 

Albany  is  the  great  thoroughfare  and  resort  of 
the  vast  western  regions  of  the  State  ;  its  streets  arc 
very  bustling ;  it  is  said  that  two  thousand  waggons 
sometimes  pass  up  and  down  State  street  in  a  day  ; 
it  must  hereafter  become  a  great  inland  city. 

It  stands  near  the  head  of  sloop  navigation  and 
of  tide  water  :  sloops  of  eighty  tons  come  up  to  the 
town,  besides  the  steam-boats  of  vastly  greater  ton- 
nage, but  of  a  moderate  draught  of  water. 

In  addition  to  the  public  buildings  that  have  been 
-already  mentioned,  Albany  has  a  City  Hall,  a  Jail, 
an  Aims-House,  a  State  Arsenal,  two  Market  hous- 
es, four  banks,  a  museum,  eleven  houses  of  public 
worship, and  a  public  Library,  containing  about  four 
(housand  volumes.* 

The  private  library  of  Chancellor  Kent,  does 
honour  t  r 'm  and  to  learning.  It  contains  between 
two  and  three  thousand  volumes  of  choice  books* 
The  collection  on  jurisprudence,  embraces  not  only 
(lie  F.nglish,  but  the  civil  and  French  law.  It  con- 
tains Lafin,  Greek,  English  and  French  Classics— 
bt  lies  letters — history — biography — travels, — and 
books  in  most  hr^^nches  of  human  learning.     The 

•Worcester's  Gazeftrer. 


i 


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Hi 


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64      TOUR  BETWEEN   IIARTFOHD  ANt>  qUBREC. 


n 

If. 

^ 

i] 

jt 

^  1- 

4 

Wl 

K 

>     ,    I 


ll- 1  ll 


i 


numerous  manuscript  remarks  and  annotations,  oa 
the  blank  leaves  and  margins  of  the  books,  evince 
that  they  are  not  a  mere  pageant,  and  at  a  future 
day  will  form  some  of  the  most  interesting  of  our 
literary  relics. 

The  situation  of  Albany  is  salubrious,  and  emi- 
nently happy,  in  relation  to  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, which  is  populous  and  fertile.  No  one  can 
estimate  the  importance  of  the  regions  west,  which, 
in  their  pr  gressive  increase,  and  aided  by  the  stu- 
pendous canal,*  now  in  progress,  must  pour  a  great 
part  of  their  treasures  through  this  channel. 

Albany  has  been  memorable  in  American  histo- 
ry. It  was  the  rendezvous,  and  the  point  of  de- 
parture, for  most  of  those  armies,  which,  whether 
sent  by  the  mother  country,  or,  raised  by  the  colo- 
nies themselves,  for  the  conquest  of  the  Gallo- 
American  dominions,  and  of  the  savages,  so  often, 
during  the  middle  periods  of  the  last  century,  exci- 
ted, and  more  than  once  disappointed  the  hopes  of 
the  empire.  It  was  scarcely  less  conspicuous  in  the 
same  manner,  during  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain.  Few  places, 
en  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  have  seen  more  of  mar- 
tial array,  or  heard  more  frequently  the  dreadful 
"  note  of  preparation.''  Still,  (except  perhaps  in 
some  of  the  early  contests,  with  the  Aborigines)  it 
has  never  seen  an  enemy  ;  a  hostile  army  has 
never  encamped  before  it;  nor  have  its  women  and 

*"  AlreRcly  united  to  the  waters  of  the  HudtOD,  aad  beginning 
to  verify  tbe  remark  io  the  text.    1824. 


r 

ii 


TOUK  BETWKEN  HABTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   66 

children  ever  seen  "  the  smoke    of  an    enemy's 
camp.'*  . 

More  than  once,  however,  has  a  foreign  enemy, 
after  fixing  his  destination  for  Albany,  been  either 
arrested,  and  turned  back  in  his  career,  or  visited 
the  desired  spot  in  captivity  and  disgrace. 

The  French  invasions  from  Canada  never  came 
nearer  than  Schenectady.*  In  1777,  the  porten- 
tous advances  of  the  British  armies  from  Quebec, 
and  of  the  British  fleets  and  armies,  from  Nevir- 
York,  threatening  a  junction  at  Albany,  and  filling 
the  new  States  with  alarm,  and  the  Cabinet  of  St. 
James  with  premature  exultation,  met  a  most  sig- 
nal discomfiture. 

Albany  was  the  seat  of  the  great  convention,  held 
in  1754,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  about  a  con- 
federation of  the  Colonies,  for  their  mutual  defence 
and  general  benefit,  and  it  has  been  signalized,  by 
not  a  few  other  meetings,  for  momentous  public 
purposes.  •  ' 

We  passed  a  part  of  three  days  in  Albany,  and 
were  not  without  strong  inducements  to  protract  our 
stay.  The  public  houses  are  excellent,  affording 
every  accommodation  and  comfort,  with  that  quiet 
and  retirement,  and  that  prompt  civility,  so  com- 
monly found  in  English  Inns,  and  which,  until  with- 


h 
1 


*  In  1690,  Schenectady  was  sudJenly  nssaultecl,  in  the  night, 
by  the  French  nnil  Indians,  and  its  misernblB  inhabitwnts  rither 
iHU- acred,  or  dra^jjcd,  in  the  deptli  of  winter,  iqto  wi)tivity. 


66   TOUR  BETWEEN  BARTPORD  AND  qVEBECr. 

in  a  few  years,  were  so  rare  in  those  of  America. 
Polished  and  enlightened  society,  and  the  courts* 
sies  of  hospitality  held  out  still  stronger  attractions, 
but  our  allotments  of  time  did  not  permit  us  to  re- 
main any  longer,  and  we  hastened  to  set  our  faces 
towards  the  British  dominions. 


BANKS  OF  THE  HUDSON,  ABOVE  ALBANY. 


We  determined  to  go  by  Whitehall,  as  we  wish- 
ed to  avail  ourselves,  of  the  rapid  and  comfortable 
conveyance,  to  the  confines  of  Canada,  now  estab- 
lished on  Lake  Champlain.  Being  unwilling  how- 
ever to  pass  rapidly  by,  or  entirely  to  avoid,  all 
the  interesting  objects  on  the  road,  we  adopted  such 
an  arrangement,  as  might  permit  us  to  take  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson  and  Lake  George  in  our 
route.  Indeed,  from  Albany,  upon  the  course  pro- 
posed, every  part  of  our  way  was  to  be  over  classic- 
al ground.  History  sheds  a  deeper  interest  over 
no  portion  of  the  North  American  States.  He  who 
venerates  the  virtues  and  the  valour,  and  commis- 
serates  the  sufferings  of  our  fathers,  and  he,  who 
views,  with  gratitude  and  reverence,  the  deliveran- 
ces which  heaven  has  wrought  for  this  land,  will 
tread  with  awe,  on  every  foot  of  ground  btjtwceo 
Albany  and  the  northern  lakes* 


EC. 


TOUR   BETWEEN   MARTFORD   AND   QUEBEC.      6-7 


.menca. 
court^- 
'actions, 
IS  to  re- 
»ur  faces 


NY. 

ve  wish- 
ifortable 
w  estab- 

ing  how- 

^oidy  alt 

ted  such 

ake  the 

in  our 

irse  pro- 

classic" 

st  over 

He  who 

ommis" 

le,  who 

iveran- 

id,  will 

etwceo 


# 


We  were  obliged,  on  this  occasion,  to  deny  our- 
selves a  visit  to  Sch<?nHCtady,  and  its  rising  literary 
institution,  and  to  the  waters  of  Ballston  and  Sara- 
toga. Leaving  them  therefore  to  the  left,  we  pro- 
ceeded along  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  principally 
on  the  western  shore. 

This  is  a  charming  ride.  The  road  is  very  good, 
and  absolutely  without  a  hill ;  the  river  often  placid 
and  smooth,  but  sometimes  disturbed  by  a  rocky 
bottom,  is  almost  constantly  in  sight,  and  flows 
through  beautiful  meadows,  which  are  commonly 
bouaJe  1,  at  small  distances  from  the  Hudson,  by 
verdant  hills,  of  moderate  height,  and  gentle  de- 
clivity. The  strata  of  rods  are,  almost  invariably, 
the  transition  slate.  They  present  scarcely  any 
variety.  The  direction  of  the  strata  is  so  nearly 
that  of  the  river,  that  they  form  but  an  inconsidera- 
ble angle  with  it ;  they  often  protrude  their  edges 
into  view,  because  they  have  a  very  high  inclination 
to  the  horizon,  apparently  about  43°,*  or  perhaps 
in  some  instances,  a  few  degrees  less.  The  rock  is 
easily  broken  up,  and  reduced  to  small  fragments  ; 
and  therefore  forms  an  excellent  material  for  the 
roads.  The  banks  of  the  river  frequently  present  a 
natural  barrier,  formed  by  the  same  kind  of  rock. 
Nearly  six  miles  from  Albany,  we  crossed  the  river 
into  Troy. 

*  I  had  no  opportunitjle  judge,  txceplby  the  eya,  us  we  rode 


li 


fr 


fi 


r 


l.i 


ll  ? 


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( 

r 


68     TdtJft   BETWEEN   ItARTtOIlD   ANb    QUEBEC 

(■'*»■ 

SINGULAR  HORSE  FERRY-BOAT.     * 

The  ferry-boat  is  of  a  most  singular  construction.^ 
A  platform  covers  a  wide  flat  boat.  Underneath 
the  platform,  there  is  a  large  horizontal  solid  wheel, 
which  extends  to  the  sides  of  the  boat ;  and  there 
the  platform,  or  deck,  is  cut  through,  and  removed, 
so  as  to  afford  suflicient  room  for  two  horses  to 
stand  on  the  flat  surface  of  the  wheel,  one  horse  on 
each  side,  and  parallel  to  the  gunwale  of  the  boat. 
The  horses  are  harnessed,  in  the  usual  manner  for 
teams — the  whiffle  trees  being  attached  to  stout  iron 
bars,  fixed  horizontally,  at  a  proper  height,  in  the 
posts,  which  are  a  part  of  the  permanent  structure  of 
the  boat.  The  horses  look  in  opposite  directions, 
one  to  the  bow,  and  the  other  to  the  stern  ;  their  feet 
take  hold  of  channels,  or  grooves,  cut  in  the  wheels, 
in  the  direction  of  radii;  they  press  forward,  and,  al- 
though they  advance  not,  any  more  than  a  squirrel, 
in  a  revolving  cage,  or  than  a  spit  dog  at  his  work, 
their  feet  cause  the  horizontal  wheel  to  revolve,  in 
a  direction  opposite  lothatoftheirownapparentmo- 
tion  ;  this,  by  a  connexion  of  cogs,  moves  two  verti- 
cal wheels,  one  on  each  wing  of  the  boat,  and  these, 
being  constructed  like  the  paddle  wheels  of  steam- 
boats, produce  the  same  effect,  and  propel  the  boat 
forward.  The  horses  are  covered  by  a  roof,  fur- 
nished with  curtains,  to  protect  them  in  bad  weath- 
er ;  and  do  not  appear  to  labour  harder  than  com- 
mon draft  horses,  with  a  heavy  load,         * 

*  They  have  now  become  common,  and  arc  worked  by  four 
horsos  where  the  boat  is  large.    1824. 


m 


y  four 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   QUEBEC*        69 

The  inventor  of  this  boat,  is  Mr.  Lanodon,  of 
Whitehall,  and  it  claims  the  important  advantages  of 
simplicity,  cheapness,  and  effect.  At  6rst  vieWf 
the  labour  appears  like  a  hardship  upon  the  horses, 
but  probably  this  is  an  illusion,  as  it  seems  veryim* 
material  to  their  comfort,  whetherthey  advance  with 
their  load,  or  cause  the  basis,  on  which  they  labour, 
to  recede. 


TROY,  LANSINGBURGH,  AND  WATERFORD. 

Troy,  six  miles  north  of  Albany,  is  a  beautiful 
city,  handsomely  built,  and  regularly  laid  out;  its 
appearance  is  very  neat ;  it  stands  principally  on 
the  flat  ground,  by  the  Hudson  — contains  five  thou- 
sand inhabitants  ^-a  court-house,jail,market-house| 
and  two  banks,  a  public  library,  a  Lancasteriaa 
school,  and  five  places  of  public  worship.  It  has 
an  intelligent  and  polished  population,  and  a  large 
share  of  wealth.  A  numoer  of  its  gentlemen  have 
discovered  their  attachment  to  science,  by  the  in- 
stitution of  a  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  which, 
fostered  by  the  activity,  zeal,  and  intelligence  of 
ts  members,  and  of  its  lecturer,  Mr.  Eaton,  promi- 
ses to  be  a  public  benefit,  and  to  elevate  the  char- 
acter of  the  p!a  :c. 

Near  it,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  are  ex- 
tensive and  beautiful  barracks,  belonging  to  the 

♦  5264  in  t820. 


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70     TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD   AND    dUEBEa 


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United  States,  with  a  large  park  of  artillery.  Below 
the  town,  are  fine  mill  seats,  on  which  are  al- 
ready established,  several  important  manufactures, 
for  which  kind  of  employments,  Troy  appears  very 
favourably  situated.  Small  sloops  come  up  to  this 
town,  which,  for  size,  and  importance,  is  the  third, 
or  fourth  in  the  state. 

We  had  to  regret  that  the  arrangements  of  our 
journey  did  not  permit  us  to  pass  as  much  time  in 
Troy,  as,  under  other  circumstances,  would  have 
been  both  useful  and  agreeable. 

Lansingburgh,  through  which  we  passed,  three 
miles  north  of  Troy,  is  inferior  to  it  in  the  number 
and  quality  of  its  buildings.  Its  population  is  not 
far  from  two  thousand.  It  is  a  large  and  handsome 
settlement,  situated,  principally,  on  one  street,  and 
bas  an  academy,  a  bank,  and  four*  places  of  public 
worship.  Sloops  come  up  to  this  place,  and  it  en- 
joys a  considerable  trade. 

It  was  formerly  more  flourishing  than  at  present. 
Troy  has,  for  a  good  many  years,  gained  the  pre- 
eminence, and  seems  likely  to  retain  it. 

Waterford  is  a  pretty  village,  of  one  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  stands  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Mohawk,  where  a 
numberof  islands,  producing  the  appearance  of  seve- 
ral mouths,  give  diversity  to  a  very  beautiful  scene. 
It  is  ten  miles  north  of  Albany.  From  the  Lansing- 
burgh side,  we  crossed  into  it,  over  a  commodi- 

4 

♦Worcester's  Gaz«tteer. 


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TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  71 

ous  bridge.  The  name  of  this  place,  was  formerly 
Half-Moon  point.  It  is  memorable  as  having  been 
the  most  southern  point,  to  which  the  American 
army,  under  General  Schuyler,  retreated,  before 
the  then  victorious  General  Burgoyne.  In  the  con- 
tiguous islands,  in  the  month  of  the  Mohawk,  they 
took  their  stand,  and  were  prepa/jg  to  form  a 
camp,  so  strong,  that  their  enemy  would  not  be  able 
to  force  it.  This  was  in  August,  1 777.  On  the  1 9tK 
of  that  month,  General  Schuyler  was  up  erseded  in 
command  by  General  Gates.  Colonel  Morgan's  re- 
giment of  riflemen,  dispatched  from  the  main  army 
by  General  Washington,  arrived  on  the  23d  ;  and 
on  the  8th  of  September,  the  army  again  turned 
northward,  and  marched  to  Stillwater,  to  face  Gene- 
ral Burgoyne.  From  this  place,  therefore,  we  are  to 
pass  over  the  most  interesting  scenes  of  that  cam- 
paign. 


GENERAL  BURGOYNE' S  EXPEDITION. 

Of  that  momentous  period,  I  am  not  now  about 
to  re-write  the  history,  which  may  be  found,  per- 
haps, sufficiently  detailed,  in  various  authors.  *  But, 
in  travelling  over  ground,  which  has  been  the  scene 

•  Ramsay's  History  of  the  American  Revolution,  Gordon's  His- 
tory, Marshall's  Life  of  Washington,  Wilkinson's  Memoirs,  An- 
nual Register,  Burgoyne's  State  of  the  Expedition  from  Cana- 
da, fee.  &c. 


i 


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73  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC; 


:V 


of  men  »'  *  vHI**  actions,  it  is  both  iustructive  and  in- 
terestini^,  lO  advert  concisely,  to  some  of  the  most 
prominent  eventiii. 

In  May,  1775,  Ticonderoga,  and  Crown  Point, 
and  the  small  marine  force  on  the  lake,  had  been 
taken  by  surprise,  by  the  Americans,  led  by  Colonels 
Allen  and  Arnold,  and  thus,  the  command  of  the 
lakes  George  and  Champlain,  had  been  acquired 
without  bloodshed,  and  with  comparatively  little 
effort. 

,  This  opened  the  way  for  the  invasion  of  Canada, 
which  was  undertaken  in  form,  in  the  summer  of 
1775,  it  being  supposed  that  the  Canadians  were 
disaffected  to  the  British  government,  and  needed 
nothing  but  the  appearance  of  an  American  army, 
to  induce  a  general  revolt. 

Accordingly,  in  September,  1775,  General  Scaj- 
ler,  with  General  Montgomery,  proceeded  to  the 
Sorel  river,  and  took  post  at  the  Isle-aux-Noix,  eight 
or  nine  miles  above  St.  Johns,  and  eleven  below 
the  egress  of  the  river  from  Lake  Champlain. 

General  Schuyler  falling  sick,  the  command  devol- 
?ed  on  General  Montgomery,  who,  in  the  course  of 
a  few  weeks,  reduced  the  forts  of  St.  Johns  and 
Chambly,  on  the  river  Sorel,  and  captured  Mont- 
real and  the  towns  of  Sorel  and  the  Trois  Revie- 
res,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  Early  in  December,  he 
formed  a  junction  with  General  Arnold,  who,  in  No- 
vember, arrived  at  Point  Levi,  opposite  to  Quebec, 
with  the  little  army  which  he  commanded,  (having 
traversed  the  hideous  wilderness  between  the  Ken- 


I 


t> 


Be: 

and  in- 
he  most 

[)  Point, 
ad  been 
Dolonels 
1  of  the 
icquired 
\y  little 

Canada, 
nmer  of 
ins  were 
I  needed 
n  army, 

1  Scay- 
to  the 
ix,  eight 
\  below 
in. 

d  devol- 
ourse  of 
ins  and 
H  Mont- 
Revie- 
iber,  he 
,  in  No- 
^uebec, 
(having 
16  Ken- 


m 


TOUB    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AMD   <IT7EBEC.       73 

nebec  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers,)  and  the  two  ar- 
mies united,  scarcely  equalling  one  thousand  men, 
proceeded,  in  due  form,  to  invest  Quebec. 

The  siege,  from  the  want  of  heavy  cannon,  prov- 
ing ineffectual,  they  made  a  desperate  assault,  on 
the  last  day  of  December.  This  terminated  in  the 
death  of  Montgomery,  and  the  defeat  of  the  enter- 
prise; the  army,  however,  kept  its  ground,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Quebec,  till  spring,  and  maintained,  part- 
ly a  siege  and  partly  a  blockade  of  the  place. 

On  the  return  of  spring,  and  the  arrival  of  British 
reinforcements,  the  American  army  gradually  retir- 
ed up  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  and,  although  largely  re- 
inforced, from  time  to  time,  till  it  eventually  amount- 
ed  to  eight  thousand  men,  it  was  not  able  to  retain 
possession  of  the  country ;  but,  by  degrees,  after 
various  conflicts,  more  or  less  important,  relinquish- 
ed all  that  had  been  gained,  by  so  much  effort  and 
blood. 

In  June,  1776,  the  evacuation  of  Canada  was 
complete,  and  the  great  objects,  originally  in  view, 
of  uniting  Canada  to  the  states,  and  of  preventing 
invasion  from  that  quarter,  were  entirely  defeated. 
Still,  the  Americans  held  the  command  of  the  lakes, 
and  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  who  commanded  in  Canada, 
made  such  astonishing  efforts  to  prepare  a  navy, 
that,  by  the  autumn  of  177C,  he  had  a  force  much 
superior  to  that  of  the  Americans. 

A  desperate  conflict  ensued,  in  October  of  the 
same  year ;  and  General  Arnold,  who  commanded 


7» 


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74  TOUR  BETWEEN  HAKirORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

the  American  flotilla,  although  he  did  every  thing, 
which  valour  could  accomplish,  witnessed  the  com- 
plete destruction  of  this  little  navy. 

Thus  the  principal  obstacles,  that  prevented  the 
invasion  of  the  new  States,  from  Canada,  were  re- 
moved, and  the  tide  of  war,  with  a  powerful  reliux, 
was  soon  to  roll  back  from  the  North. 

The  troops,  destined  for  the  intended  invasion, 
were  already  in  Canada,  and  General  Burgoyne,  their 
future  commander,  returned  to  England  in  the  au- 
tumn of  1776,  to  digest  the  plan  of  the  intended 
campaign.  By  an  exertion  of  arbitrary  authority, 
be  was  made  to  supersede  General  SirGuy  Carleton, 
who  had  commanded  with  much  ability,  during  the 
preceding  campaign,  and  whose  only  fault  in  the 
view  of  the  English  ministry,  was  probably,  his 
humanity  and  clemency  to  the  Americans ;  his  mag- 
nanimity, however,  led  him  still  to  do  every  thing  in 
his  power  to  forward  the  service  In  the  spring  of 
1777,  General  Burgoyne  returned  to  Canada,  took 

the  command,  and  the  armament  proceeded  on  its 
destination. 

It  was  led  by  accomplished  and  experienced  offi- 
cers;— it  was  furnished  with  a  most  formidable  train 
of  brass  artillery,  and  with  all  the  apparatus,  stores, 
and  equipments,  which  the  nature  of  the  service 
required,  and  which  the  art  of  man  had  invented. 
Veteran  corps  of  the  best  troops  of  Britain  and  Ger- 
many, formed  almost  the  v/hole  of  this  dreaded 
army,  while  Canadians,  and  American  loyalists,  fur 


i  ' 


•T  tiling, 
the  com- 

nted  the 
were  re- 
al reliux, 

invasion, 
me,  their 
n  the  au- 
intended 
luthority, 
Carleton, 
uring  the 
It  in  the 
ibly,  his 
his  mag- 
'  thing  in 
spring  of 
ida,  took 
i\  on   its 

iced  offi- 
ible  train 
3,  stores, 
service 
nvented. 
ind  Ger- 
dreaded 
ists,  fur 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC.      75 

nished  it  with  rangers,  scouts  and  spies,  and  a  nu- 
merous array  of  savages,  with  their  own  dress,  and 
weapons,  and  with  their  own  characteristic  ferocity, 
increased  the  terrors  of  its  approach.  It  numbered, 
according  to  common  estimation,  ten  thousand  strong, 
including  every  description  of  force ;  an  army,  which, 
considering  the  theatre  of  action,  was  equal  to  ten 
times  that  number  in  the  ordinary  wars  of  Europe. 
It  is  probable,  however,  that  this  force  was  some- 
what overrated,  by  the  Americans,  as  the  regular 
troops  did  not  exceed,  (according  to  the  statement 
of  the  British  officers,)  seven  thousand  men.  Un- 
molested in  its  progress,  from  St.  John^s,  up  the 
lake,  it  landed  and  invested  Ticonderoga,  on  the 
first  and  second  days  of  July. 

This  post,  the  key  of  the  North,  had  not  been  at- 
tempted by  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  after  the  destruction 
of  the  American  flotilla,  in  the  preceding  October. 
It  had,  in  the  mean  time,  been  strengthened  by  ad- 
ditional works,  and  men,  and  the  commari  of  it 
comr/.ilted  to  General  St.  Clair,  an  officer  of  the 
highest  standing.  TI:3  country  looked  to  him  for  a 
vigorous  defence,  and  expected  that  he  would  stem 
the  tide  of  invasion,  and  iix  bound?  to  its  proud  bil- 
lows. But,  that  country,  little  knew  the  really  fee- 
ble, and  ill  provided  state  of  the  garrison,  and  its 
utter  incompetency,  to  contend  with  the  formidable 
army  by  which  it  was  now  invested.  Had  it  been 
even  much  stronger  than  it  was,  its  strength  would 
have  been  rendered  unavailing,  by  the  unexpected 


i 


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^:-^ 


76      TOUR   BETWF.EN   HARTFORD   AND   QUEBEC. 


fi 

5*       * 

m 

occupancy  of  Sugar  Loaf  Hill,  or  Mount  Defiance, 
hitherto  deemed  inaccessible,  and  equally  neglect- 
ed by  all  previous  commanders,  whether  French, 
British  or  Americans,  and  had  the  latter  now 
thought  proper  to  possess  it,  they  could  not  have 
spared  troops  for  the  purpose.  From  this  completely 
commanding,  and  very  contiguous  position,^  Gene- 
ral Burgoyne  was  already  prepared,  to  pour  down 
into  the  garrison,  a  certain  and  deadly  fire  from  his 
artillery;  while,  not  an  effective  shot  could  be  re- 
turned. 

The  Eagle,  perched  in  the  covert  of  the  rock, 
was  poising  his  wings  to  dart  upon  the  defence- 
less prey,  that  was  crouching  beneath  him,  and 
nothing  but  precipitate  flight  could  save  the  vic- 
tim. Accordingly,  on  the  night  of  the  fifth  of  Ju- 
ly,  Ticonderoga  was  abandoned :  the  baggage, 
stores,  hospital,  ordnance  and  moveable  provisions 
were  dispatched  to  Skeensborough,  by  water,  in  the 
little  American  flotilla,  while  the  main  body  of  the 
garrison,  having  crossed  the  lake  to  Fort  Indepen- 
dence, defiled  to  the  left,  into  Vermont.  They 
were  closely  pursued  by  a  detachment  of  the  Brit- 
ish, under  General  Frazer,  and  of  the  Germans  un- 
der General  Ueidesel,  who,  the  next  day,  brought 
them  to  action,  and  the  obstinate  and  sanguinary, 
conflicts  at  Huhberton,  evinced,  that  although  in  re- 

♦Only  one  lhou«»nii  four  hundred  yards,  from  Ticondercjg:*, 
and  one  thousan  I  in  e  liunlretl  from  Mount  Ind«pend«acc,  onlb« 
opposite  shore. — (fJeneraf  Burgoym.) 


I 


EBEC, 


TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD    AND    CilfEBEC.     77 


Defiance, 
T  neglect- 
French, 
tter  now 
not  have 
>mpletely 
I,*  Gene- 
mr  down 
from  his 
Id  be  re- 
he  rock, 
defence- 
lim,  and 
the  vic- 
h  of  Ju- 

rovisions 
;r,  in  the 
}  of  the 
ndepen- 
They 
le  Brit- 
lans  un- 
brought 
guinary, 
;h  in  re* 

ce,  on  tbe 


treat,  they  were  still  very  formidable.  This  little  ar- 
my, led  byGeneral  St.  Clair,  after  a  circuitous  march, 
reached  the  Hudson,  at  Batten  Kill,  and  soon  join- 
ed General  Schuyler,  who.  with  the  main  army,  was 
a  few  miles  above,  at  Fort  Edward.  General  Bur- 
goyne.  with  a  great  body  of  the  British  troops,  pro- 
ceeded, in  pursuit  of  his  enemy,  up  the  lake,  to 
Skeensborough,  and  destroyed  the  American  flotilla, 
baggage  and  stores,  while  General  Philips  with  most 
of  the  stores  of  General  Burgoyne,  went  up  lake 
George,  to  Fort  George,  situated  at  its  head.  Gen- 
eral Schuyler's  army  continued  to  retreat,  down  the 
Hudson,  to  Saratoga  and  Stillwater,  and,  at  last,  to 
Van  Shaick's  island,  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk, 
where  it  took  post,  on  the  eighteenth  of  August. 

From  Skeensborough,  General  Burgoyne,  witk 
extreme  difficulty,  and  after  several  weeks  of  severe 
labour,  and  one  considerable  battle  near  fort  Anne» 
cleared  the  passage  to  Fort  Edward ;  for  General 
Schuyler,  in  consequence  of  General  Burgoyne's 
halting,  nearly  three  weeks,  at  Skeensborough,  had 
time  to  throw  very  formidable  obstructions  in  his 
wr.y.  He  felled  innumerable  trees  into  Wood 
Creek,  and  across  the  roads  by  Fort  Anne ;  he  de- 
molished bridges,  and  by  every  other  means  in  his 
power,  so  impeded  his  march,  that  the  British  army 
did  not  arrive  at  Fort  Edward,  on  the  Hudson,  till 
the  150th  of  July.  A  junction  was  at  length  formed 
!at  this  place,  between  the  niiiin  body,  and  the  divi*. 
sion  that  went  by  lakg  Goorge. 


IM 


ill 

h 


Ml 


78  TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFOHD  AND  QUEBEC. 


In  order  to  enable  General  Burgoyne  to  move 
down  the  Hudson,  it  was  necessary  to  transport  the 
stores,  boats  and  ammunition,  a  distance  of  sixteen 
miles  over  a  very  difficult  country,  from  Fort 
George  to  Fort  Edward.  But  still  on  the  fifteenth 
of  August,  there  was  at  Fort  Edward,  only  four 
days'  provisions  in  advance. 

On  the  sixteenth,  Colonel  Baum,  who  with  his 
Germans,  had  been  detached  by  Burgoyne,  to  seize 
a  magazine  of  stores  at  Benington,  in  Vermont,  and 
to  countenance  the  loyalists  in  that  quarter,  was  to- 
tally defeated  and  slain,  by  General  Stark ;  most  of 
his  detachment  were  either  killed  or  made  prison- 
ers; and  Colonel  Breyman,  who  had  been  sent  to 
succour  Baum,  and  who  arrived  on  the  same  ground, 
a  few  hours  after  the  battle,  was  also  defeated,  and 
with  extreme  difficulty,  regained  the  main  army 
with  the  greater  part  of  his  troops. 

In  the  mean  time.  Colonel  St.  Leger,  in  conse- 
quence of  an  arrangement,  made  in  England,  had 
proceeded,  early  in  August  with  an  army  of  British 
and  Indians,  to  attack  For^  Stanwix,  called  also  Fort 
Schuyler,  on  the  Mohawk.  This  wa*'  intended  to 
operate,  as  a  diversion  in  favour  of  Burgoyne  ;  to 
distract  the  Americans,  and  in  cars  of  success,  to 
brinp;  down  a  powerful  force,  upon  their  flank. 

This  pxprdition  was  attended  with  some  success, 
in  the  (h'feat  of  Colonel  Herkimer,  who  fell  inlo  an 
ambuscade,  while  advancing  with  the  militia,  of  the 
vicinity,  to  relievu  the  Fort ;  he  was  slain,  with  ma- 


i 


!^ 


,H 


t  • 


BEC. 

to  move 
sport  the 
'  sixteen 
3  m  Fort 
fifteenth 
nly  four 

kvith  his 
,  to  seize 
iont,  and 
,  was  to- 
most  of 
B  prison- 
n  sent  to 
ground, 
ited,  and 
in  army 

conse- 
ind,  had 

British 
ISO  Fort 
nded  to 
rne  ;  to 
cess,  to 
k. 

iuccess, 
inlo  an 
,  of  the 
ith  ina- 


TOHR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  79 

ny  of  his  party ;  but  a  successful  sally  from  the 
Fort — the  reported  advance  of  General  Arnold,  with 
a  force  greatly  magnified  by  the  artful  repre  enta- 
tions  of  some  friendly  Indians,  and  the  fears  and 
fickleness  of  the  savages  in  the  British  army,  eventu- 
ally defeated  St.  Leger's expedition,  and  caused  him 
to  retreat  in  extreme  confusion  and  distress. 

Thus,  General  Burgoyne  was  disappointed  of  any 
collateral  aid  from  St.  Leger,  and  the  signal  defeat 
at  Bennington,  not  only  deprived  him  of  any  supply 
of  provisions,  fvom  that  source,  but  lost  him  a  sixth 
part  of  the  regular  troops  in  his  army,  and  revealed 
the  important  secret,  that  regular  troops  could  be 
beaten  by  militia.  These  events  revived  the  cour- 
age of  thi3  Americans,  gave  them  time  to  rally  and 
to  recruit  their  armies,  and  very  materially  embar- 
rassed and  retarded  the  movements  of  General  Bur- 
goyne. 

To  retreat  was  to  abandon  the  objects  of  his  ex- 
pedition, and  to  disappoint  the  expectations  of  his 
8;ovenin»ent;  to  advance,  although  with  increasing 
difHcuItios,  and  dangers,  was  tl  ere  fore  the  only  al- 
iernative.  Accordingly,  on  the  thirteenth  and  four- 
teenth of  September,  he  passed  the  Hudson  river, 
on  a  bridge  of  boats,  not  far  from  Fort  Miller, 
and  proceeded  without  any  material  opposition,  to 
Saratoga  and  Stillwater,  till  on  the  seventeenth, 
-lis  advanced  guard  was  within  four  miles  of  the 
American  army,  now  returning  northward.  On  the 
eighteenth,  the  fronts  of  the  two  armies  wero  almost 


\4 


II 


% 


f  ■: 


^■\ 


'.>  ) 


oO     TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND   QUEBEC « 

in  contact,  and  some  skirmishing  ensued,  but  with' 
out  bringing  on  a  general  engagement. 

Thus,  we  have  passed  in  a  very  rapid  review,  the 
principal  events  which  preceded  and  induced  the 
crisis  of  General  Burgoyne's  expedition.  The  two 
armies  were  now  so  situated  that  the  catastrophe 
could  not  long  be  averted,  and  the  four  succeeding 
weeks  were  pregnant  with  dangers  and  difficulties, 
and  fruitful  in  the  waste  of  human  life. 


We  had  so  arranged  our  journey,  as  to  lodge  ai 
Stillwater,  and  we  were  even  desirous  to  stay  in  the 
very  house,  which  had  been  rendered  memorable, 
by  the  death  of  a  distinguislied  General  of  the  Brit- 
ish  army. 

This  small  house,  which  is  still  in  tolerable  re- 
pair, and  is  now  kept  as  a  tavern,  was,  for  some 
time,  the  centre  of  the  hospital  camp  ofGen.Bur- 
goyne,  and  was  rendered  very  memorable  by  the 
events  which  happened  in  and  near  it. 

We  arrived,  at  night  fall,  in  the  midst  of  a  hard 
rain:  obtained  the  refreshments  we  needed,  and 
made  ourselves  comfortable  for  the  night.  Willing 
to  arrest  the  impressions  of  the  moment,  I  wrote 
down  such  thoughts  as  the  scene  sugiested^ 


EBEC< 

,  but  mih- 

eview,  the 
duced  the 
The  two 
latastrophe 
succeeding 
difficuhies, 


fOUat  BETWEEM    H.UtTrORD    AND    UUEBHC,      SI 


0  lodge  at 
stay  in  the 
lemorable, 
if  the  Brit- 

erable  re- 
fer some 

Gen.  Bur- 
le  by  the 

sf  a   hard 

ded,   and 

Willing 

,  I  wrote 


7 


tiOUSEyi  IN  WHICH  GENERAL   FRA2ER  DIED- 

'  Ten  0^  clock  at  night. 

We  are  now  on  memorable  ground.  Here  much 
precious  blood  was  shed,  and  now,  in  the  silence 
and  solitude  of  a  very  dark  and  rainy  night — the 
family  asleep,  and  nothing  heard  but  the  rain  and 
the  Hudson,  gently  murmuring  along,  I  am  writing 
in  the  very  house  ;  and  my  table  stands,  on  the  very 
spot  in  the  room  where  General  Frazer  breathed 
his  last,  on  the  eighth  of  October,  1777. 

He  was  mortally  wounded  in  the  last  of  the  two 
desperate  battles  fought  on  the  neighbouring  heights, 
and  in  the  midst  of  the  conflict,  was  brought  to  this 
house  by  the  soldiers.  Before  me  lies  one  of  the 
bullets,  shot  on  that  occasion  ;  they  are  often  found, 
in  ploughing  the  battle  field. 

Blood  is  asserted,  by  the  people  of  the  house,  to 
liave  been  visible  here,  on  the  fioor,  till  a  very  re- 
cent period. 

General  Frazer  was  high  in  command,  in  the  Brit- 
ish army,  and  was  almost  idohzed  by  them  :  they 
had  the  utmost  confidence  in  his  skill  and  valour, 
and  that  the  Americans  entertained  a  similar  opin- 
ion of  him,  is  sulficiently  evinced  by  the  following 
anecdote,  related  to  me  at  Ballston  Springs,  in  1797, 

•  In  the  former  edition,  this  was  named  Swords'  House — but  I 
am  informed  by  Gen'l.  Hoyt,  that  Swords'  House,  mentioned  in 
Gen'l.  Burcroyne's  "  State  of  the  Expedition,"  was  two  miles  high* 
or  up  the  Hudson.     (1824.) 

8 


'\{ 


u 


1 


'  •  [li 


i 


,  * 


'\ 


82     TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTPORD    AND    QUEBEC. 

by  the  Hon.  Richard  Brent,  then  a  menaber  of  Con- 
gress, fronn  Virginia,*  who  derived  the  i  act  from 
General  Morgan's  own  mouth. 

In  the  battle  of  October  the  seventh,  the  last  pitch- 
ed battle,  that  was  fought  between  the  two  armies, 
General  Frazer  mounted  on  an  iron  grey  horse,  was 
very  conspicuous.  He  was  all  activity,  courage, 
and  vigilance,  riding  from  one  part  of  his  division 
to  another,  and  animating  the  troops  by  his  exam- 
ple. Wherever  he  was  present,  every  thing  pros- 
pered, and,  when  confusion  appeared  in  any  part  of 
the  line,  order  and  energy  were  restored  by  his  arri- 
val. 

Colonel  Morgan. f  with  his  Virginia  riflemen,  was 
immediately  opposed  to  Frazer^s  division  of  the 
army.  i    im 

It  had  been  concerted,  before  the  commence- 
ment of  the  battle,  that  while  the  New-Hampshire 
and  the  New-York  troops  attacked  the  British  left, 
Colonel  Morgan  with  his  regiment  of  Virginia  riflle- 
men,  should  make  a  circuit  so  as  to  come  upon  the 
British  right,  and  attack  them  there.  In  this  attempt, 
he  was  favoured  by  a  woody  hill,  to  the  foot  of 
which  the  British  right  extended.  When  the  at- 
tack commenced   on  the  British  left,  ''  true  to  his 


II,      \ 


■  :f       1 


*  Since  deceased. 

t  Afterwards  General  Morgan— tlie  hero  of  the  battle  of  the 
Cowpens,  and  distinguished  through  the  whole  war^  by  a  series 
of  tlie  most  important  services.  ^^  lodnit!  r»'ij  ntf 


BEC. 


of  Con- 

\cX  from 

ist  pitch- 

armies, 

"'a 

)rse,  was 

courage, 

division 

s  exam- 

ng  pros- 

y  part  of 

his  arri- 

1 

nen,  was 

n  of  the 

"€ 

nmence- 

impshire 

H 

itish  left, 

wm 

niariflle- 

■if 

upon  the 

attempt, 
;  foot  of 

1   the  at- 

^ 

ue  to  his     ! 

1 

Iltle  of  the 
by  a  series 

1 

J     Ttf.j    1}lt 

? 

rOUIl    BETWFEN    HARTFORD  AND  Q,UFBEC.      83 

purpose,  Morgan  at  this  critical  moment,  poured 
down  like  a  torrent  from  the  hill,  and  attacked  the 
right  of  the  enemy  in  front  and  flank."*  The  right 
wing  soon  made  a  movement  to  support  the  left, 
which  was  assailed  with  increased  violence,  and 
while  executing  this  movement,  General  Frazer  re- 
ceived his  mortal  wound. 

In  the  midst  of  this  sanguinury  battle.  Colonel 
Morgan  took  a  few  of  his  best  riflemen  aside;  men 
in  whose  fidelity,  and  fatal  precision  of  aim,  he 
could  repose  the  most  perfect  confidence,  and  said 
to  them  :  "  that  gallant  officer  is  General  Frazer  ;  I 
admire  and  respect  him,  but  it  is  necessary  that  he 
should  die — take  your  stations  in  that  wood  and  do 
your  duty."  Within  a  few  moments  General  Fra- 
zer fell,  mortally  wounded  f 

How  far,  such  personal  designation  is  justifiable, 
has  often  been  questioned,  but  those  who  vindicate 
war  at  all,  contend,  that  to  shoot  a  distinguished  offi- 
cer, and  thus  to  acceler^^te  the  conclusion  of  a  bloody 
battle,  operates  to  save  lives,  and  that  it  is,  morally^ 
no  worse,  to  kill  an  ill  istrions,  than  an  obscure  indi- 
vidual ;  a  Frazer,  than  a  common  soldier ;  a  Nel- 

*  Wilkinson's  Memoirs,  Vol.  I  p.  268. 

+  He  was  rurp^rted  on  his  horee  by  two  officers,  till  he  reached 
his  tent ;  he  said  thrtt  he  saw  the  man  who  shot  him,  that  he  was 
n  rifiemau,  and  puateJ  in  a  tree. 


■1 


84      TOUil    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBtC. 


i       I 


i 


'.  ( 


SON,*  than  a  common  sailor.  But,  there  is  some- 
thing very  revolting  to  humane  feelings,  in  a  mode 
of  warfare,  which  converts  its  ordinary  chances  into 
a  species  of  military  execution.  Such  instances, 
were,  however,  frequent,  during  the  campaign  of 
General  Burgoyne ;  and  his  aid-de-camp,  Sir  Fran- 
cis Clark,  and  many  other  British  officers,  were  vic- 
tims of  American  mrxrkmanship. 

The  Baroness  Reidesel,  the  lady  of  Major  Gene- 
ral the  Baron  Reidesel,  in  some  very  interesting 
letters  of  hers,  published  at  Berlin,  in  1800,  and  in 
part  republished  in  translation,  in  Wilkinson's  me> 
moirs,  states  that  she,  with  her  three  little  children, 
(for  she  had,  with  this  tender  charge,  followed  the 
fortunes  of  her  husband,  across  the  Atlantic,  and 
through  the  horrors  of  the  campaign,)  occupied  this 
house,  which  was  the  only  refuge,  within  protection 
of  the  British  army.  The  rooms  which  it  contain- 
ed remain,  to  this  day,  as  they  then  were,  although 
some  other  rooms  have  been  since  added. 

The  house  stood,  at  that  time,  perhaps  one  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  river,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill ; 
it  was  afterwards  removed  to  the  road  side,  close 
by  the  river,  where  it  now  stands. 

The  Baroness,  with  her  little  children,  occupied 
the  room  in  which  we  took  tea,  and  General  Fra- 
zer,  when  brought  in  wounded,  was  laid  in  the  other 
room.  In  fact,  as  it  was  the  oniy  shelter  that  re- 
mained standing,  it  was  soon  converted  into  a  hos- 

*  Nelson  was  killed  by  «  sharp  shooter  from  the  tops  of  the  Saa- 
tissima  I'rinidada, 


m 


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4 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND   QITEREO. 


85 


lene- 


pital,  and  many  other  wounded  and  dying  officers 
were  brought  to  this  melancholy  refuge. 

Thus  a  refined  and  dchcate  lady,  educated  in  all 
the  elegance  of  affluence  and  of  elevated  rank,  with 
her  little  children,  was  compelled  to  witness  the 
agonies  of  bleeding  and  dying  men,  among  whom, 
some  of  her  husband^s,  and  of  her  own  particular 
i  friends,  expired  before  her  eyes.  She  imparted  to 
them  of  her  (gw  remaining  comforts,  and  soothed 
them  by  offices  of  kindness.  This  distinguished 
ladv  "as  not  without  female  companions,  who  shar- 
ed .=tir  distresses,  or  felt  with  keenness  their  own 
misfortunes.  Among  them  was  Lady  Harriet  Ack- 
land,  the  wife  of  Major  Ackland,  who  commanded 
the  British  grenadiers.  Nearly  every  thing  that  has 
been  said  of  the  Baroness  Reidesel,  will  apply  to 
her.  News  came,  from  time  to  time,  from  the 
heights,  that  one  officer  and  another  was  killed,  and 
among  the  rest,  that  Major  Ackland  was  desperate- 
ly wounded,  and  a  prisoner  with  the  enemy. 

Major  (called  in  General  Burgoyne's  narrative. 
Colonel,)  Ackland,  had  been  wounded  in  the  battle 
of  Hubberton,  but  had  recovered,  and  resumed  the 
command  of  the  grenadiers.  He  was  wounded,  the 
se(.ond  time,  in  the  battle  of  October  7,  and  found 
by  General  (then  Colonel.)  Wilkinson,  who  gives 
the  following  interesting  statement  of  the  occur- 
rence:*  '*  With  the  troops,  1  pursued  the  hard 

pressed,   flying   enemy,   passing   over  killed   and 
wounded,  until  I  heard  one  exclaim,  '  protect  me, 
*  Memoirs,  vol.  I.  p.  271. 
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3G      TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND  (lUEDtC. 

Sir,  against  this  boy/  Turning  my  eyes,  it  was  mj 
fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a  lad,  thirteen  or 
fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  taking  aim  at  a 
wounded  officer,  who  lay  in  the  angle  of  a  worm 
fence.  Inquiring  his  rank,  he  answered,  *  I  had  the 
honour  to  command  the  Grenadiers  ;^'  of  course  I 
knew  him  to  be  Major  Ackland,  who  had  been 
brought  from  the  field  to  this  place,  on  the  back  of 
a  Captain  Shrimpton,  of  his  own  corps,  under  a 
heavy  iire,  and  was  deposited  here,  to  save  the 
lives  of  both.*'* 

"  I  dismounted,  took  him  by  the  hand,  and  ex- 
pressed hopes  that  he  was  not  badly  wounded  ;  not 
badly,*  replied  this  gallant  officer,  and  accomplish- 
ed gentleman,  *  but  very  inconveniently — I  am  shot 
through  both  legs  ;  will  you.  Sir,  have  the  good* 
ness  to  have  me  conveyed  to  your  cat<ip?'  I  direct- 
ed my  servant  to  alight,  and  we  lifted  Ackland  into 
his  (the  servant^s,)  seat,  and  ordered  him  to  be  con- 
ducted to  head  quarters." 

*  Anbury  relates,  (Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  394,)  that  after  Ackland 
was  deposited,  by  Captain  Shrimpton,  he  oflered  fifty  fruineas  to 
the  Greuadieri,  who  were  flying  by  him,  if  any  one  of  them  would 
convey  him  into  camp ;  that  a  very  stout  Grenadier  undertook  it, 
but  being  overtaken  by  the  Americans,  both  were  made  prisoners. 
Anbury's  book,  however,  although  it  contains  many  interesting 
occurrences,  which,  so  far  a»  they  are  stated  on  his  own  know- 
ledge, are  probably  related  with  correctness — is  evidently  a  madi 
up  work,  and,  what  is  curious  enough,  many  pages  of  it,  and  by 
far  the  most  important  parts,  are  taken,  almost  verbatim,  from 
General  Burvnyne^s  *'9t:<te  of  the  Expedition  from  Cana- 
da*'—altlii  ue:h  th»t  work  was  not  published, till  three  years  after 
Anbury's  letters  are  dated. 


I 


I  1 


V 


M    J 


TOUR   BP.TWEEN    HARTPORD   AND    QUEBCc.      87 


Two  other  ladies,  who  were  in  the  same  house 
with  madam  Reidesel,  received  news,  the  9ne,  that 
her  husband  was  wounded,  and  the  other,  that  hers 
was  slain  ;  and  the  Baroness  herselfexpected,  eve- 
ry moment,  to  hear  similar  tidings;  for  the  Baron's 
duties,  as  commander  in  chief  of  the  German  troops, 
required  him  to  be  frequently  exposed  to  the  most 
imminent  perils. 

The  Baroness  Reidesel  gives,  in  her  narrative, 
the  following  recital,  respecting  General  Frazer'i 
death  : — '^  severe  trials  awaited  us,  and  on  the  7th 
of  October,  our  misfortunes  began  ;  I  was  at  break- 
fast, with  my  husband,  and  heard  that  something 
was  intended.     On  the  same  day,   1  expected  the 
Generals  Burgoyne,  Philips  and  Frazer,  to  dine  with 
us.    1  saw  a  great  movement  among  the  troops  ;  my 
husband  told  me  it   was  a  mere  reconnoissance, 
which  gave  me  no  concern,  as  it  often  happened. 
1  walked  out  of  the  house,  and  met  several  Indians, 
in  their  war  dresses,  with  guns  in  their  hands.  When 
I  asked  them  where  they  were  going,  they  cried 
out,  War  !  War  !  (meaning  that  they  were  going  to 
battle.)    This  filled  me  with  apprehensions,  and  I 
had  scarcely  got  home,  before  I  heard  reports  of 
cannon  and  musketry,  which  grew  louder  by  de* 
grees,  till   at   last   the   noise   became    excessive. 
About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  instead  of  the 
guests  whom   1   expected,    General    Frazer   was 
brought,  on  a  litter, morfaily  wounded.     The  table, 
which  was  already  set,  was  instantly  removed;  and 


t^ 


t.l 


88       TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTPORD    AND    qUEISEC. 

a  bed  placed  in  its  stead,  for  the  wounded  General. 
I  sat  trembling  in  a  corner;  the  noise  grew  louder, 
and  the  alarm  increased:  the  thought  that  my  hus- 
band might,  perhaps,  be  brought  in,  wounded  in  the 
same  manner,  was  terrible  to  me,  and  distressed 
me  exceedingly. 

General  Frazer  said  to  the  surgeon,  4ell  me  if 
my  wound  is  mortal — do  not  flatter  me/  The  ball 
had  passed  through  his  body,  and,  unhappily  for  the 
General,  he  had  eaten  a  very  hearty  breakfast,  by 
which  the  stomach  was  diste:ided,  and  the  ball,  as 
the  surgeon  said,  had  passed  through  it.  I 
heard  him  often  exclaim,  with  a  sigh,  *0  fatal 
ambition!  Poor  General  Burooync!  O,  mv 
POOR  wife!'  He  was  asked  if  he  had  any  request 
to  make,  to  which  he  replied,  that  ^if  General 

BuKCOYNE  WOULD  PERMIT  IT  HE  SHOULD  LIKE  TO 
BE  BURIED  AT  SIX  oVlOCK  IN  THE  EVENING,  ON  THE 
TOP    OF    A     MOUNTAIN,    IN    A    REDOUBT    WHICH    HAD 

BEEN  BUILT  THERE.*  Towards  evening,  I  saw  my 
husband  coming ;  then  I  forgot  all  my  sorrows,  and 
thanked  God  that  he  was  spared  to  me.'' 

The  German  Baroness  spent  much  of  the  night 
in  comforting  lady  Harriet  Ackland,  and  in  taking 
care  of  her  children,  whom  she  had  put  to  bed.  Of 
herself  she  says — '^  I  could  not  go  to  sleep,  as  I  had 
Gcn«3ral  Frazer  and  all  the  other  wounded  gentle- 
men in  my  room,  and  i  was  sadly  afraid  my  chil- 
dren would  awakp,  and,  by  their  crying,  disturb  the 
dying  man,  in  his  last  moments,  who  often  address- 


General. 
r  louder, 
my  bus- 
ed ill  the 
listressed 

ell  me  if 
The  ball 
\y  for  the 
kfast,  by 
s  ball,  as 
;h    it.     I 

O    FATAL 
O,     MY 

y  request 
General 

)  LIKE  TO 
I,  ON  THE 
ICH    HAD 

I  saw  my 
ows,  and 

the  night 
n  taking 
bed.  Of 
as  I  had 
gentle- 
my  chil- 
turb  the 
address- 


rOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOHD  AND  QUBBEC.   80 

ed  me,  and  apologized  ^for  the  trouble  he  gave  me.' 
About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  was  told  he 
could  not  hold  out  much  longer ;  I  had  desired  to 
be  informed  of  the  near  approach  of  this  sad  crisis, 
and  1  then  wrapped  up  my  children  in  their  clothes, 
and  went  with  them  into  the  room  below.  About 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  he  died.  After  he 
was  laid  out,  and  his  corpse  wrapped  up  in  a  sheet, 
we  came  again  into  the  room,  and  we  had  this  sor- 
rowful  sight  before  us  the  whole  day;  and,  to  add 
to  the  melancholy  scene,  almost  every  moment 
some  officer  of  my  acquaintance  was  brought  in 
wounded."  - . 

What  a  situation  for  delicate  females — a  small 
house,  filled  with  bleeding  and  expiring  men — the 
battle  roaring,  and  raging  all  around — little  children 
to  be  soothed  and  protected,  and  female  domestics* 
in  despair,  to  be  coiiforted — cordials  and  aids,  such 
as  were  attainable, to  be  administered  to  the  wound- 
ed and  dying — ruin  impending  over  the  army,  and 
they  knew  not  what  insults,  worse  than  death,  might 
await  themselves,  from  those  whom  they  had  been 
taught  to  consider  as  base,  as  well  as  cowardly. 

Both  these  illustrious  females  learned,  not  long 
after,  a  different  lesson.  I  have  already  remarked, 
that  Major  Ackland  was  wounded  and  taken  pris- 
oner. His  lady,  with  heroic  courage,  and  exempla- 
ry conjugal  tenderness,  passed  down  the  river,  to 
our  army,  with  a  letter  from  General  Burgoyne  to 
General  Gates  ;  and,  although  somewhat  detained 


« 


>■: 


..   \l 


90   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


.ftk 


I    ^m 


- 


on  the  river,  because  it  was  night  when  she  arriv- 
ed, and  the  sentinel  would  not  permit  her  to  land, 
till  he  had  received  orders  from  his  superior,  she 
was,  as  soon  as  her  errand  was  made  known,  re- 
ceived by  the  Americans,  with  the  utmost  respect, 
kindness,  and  delicacy.  Her  husband,  many  years 
after  the  war,  even  lost  his  life  in  a  duel,  which  he 
fought  with  an  officer  who  called  the  Americans 
cowards.  Ackland  espoused  their  cause,  and  vin- 
dicated it  in  this  unhappy  manner.       '         '  :  ■^... 

General  Burgoyne,  in  his  "State  of  the  Expedition 
from  Canada,"  has  mentioned,  with  much  respect 
and  feeling,  the  case  of  lady  Harriet  Ackland.  It 
seems  she  came  with  her  husband  lo  Canada,  early 
in  the  year  17'"6,  and  accompanied  him  through  that 
campaign,  in  all  the  varietiesof  travelling  and  of  the 
seasons,  '*  to  attend,  in  a  poor  hut,  at  Chambly,  up- 
on his  sick  bed.^'  At  the  opening  of  the  campaign 
of  1777,  she,  by  the  positive  injunctions  of  her  hus- 
band, remained  at  Ticonderoga,  till,  hearing  of  his 
being  wounded  at  Ca^tleton,  she  went  over  to  him, 
and.  j^ft.-r  his  recovery,  persisted  in  following  his 
fortMuof.  wilh  no  other  vehicle,  than  a  little  two- 
wh»"clr<J  tumbnl,  constructed  in  the  camp  on  the 
Hiidsioii.  She.  with  (he  Major,  was,  on  a  particular 
occasion  near  perishing  in  the  flames,  in  conse- 
quence of  their  hut  taking  fire  in  the  night.  As  the 
grenadiers,  whom  Major  Ackland  commanded, 
wtrtf  attached  to  the  advanced  corps,  this  lady  was 
exposed  to  all  their  fatigues,  and  to  many  of  their 


t 


BEC. 

she  arriv- 
r  to  land, 
erior,  she 
nown,  re- 
it  respect, 
any  years 
which  he 
Vmericans 
,  and  vin- 

Ixpedition 
:h  respect 
eland.  It 
ada,  early 
rough  that 
and  of  the 
imbly,  up- 
campaign 
f  her  hus- 
ingof  his 
er  to  him, 
owing  his 
ittle  two- 
ip  on  the 
particular 
in  conse- 
nt. As  the 
mmandcd, 
a  lady  was 
ly  of  their 


fi 


\ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEUEC.   9l 

perils,  and  was  at  last  obliged,  during  the  battle  of 
the  7th  of  October,  to  take  refuge  "  annong  the 
wounded  and  dying."  *      '  ' 

With  respect  to  her  proposal,  to  go  over  to  the 
American  camp,  to  take  care  of  her  husband.  Gener- 
al Burgoyne  remarks,*  "  Though  I  was  ready  to  be- 
lieve, (for  I  had  experienced,)  that  patience  and 
fortitude,  in  a  supreme  degree,  were  to  be  found 
as  well  as  every  other  virtue,  under  the  most  tender 
forms,  1  was  astonished  at  this  proposal.  After  so 
long  an  agitation  of  the  spirits,  exhausted,  not  only 
for  want  of  rest,  but  absolutely  want  of  food,  drench* 
ed  in  rains  for  twelve  hours  together,  that  a  woman 
should  be  capable  of  delivering  herself  to  the  ene- 
my, probably  in  the  night,  and  uncertain  of  what 
hands  she  might  tirst  fall  into,  appeared  an  effort, 
above  human  nature.  The  assistance  I  was  enabled 
to  give,  was  small  indeed  ;  I  had  not  even  a  cup  of 
wine  to  offer  her  ;  but  I  was  told,  she  had  found 
from  some  kind  and  fortunate  hand,  a  little  rum  and 
dirty  water.  All  I  could  furnish  to  her,  was  an 
open  boat,  and  a  few  lines,  written  upon  dirty  and 
wet  paper,  to  General  Gates,  recommending  her  to 

his  protection." *'  It  is  due  to  justice,  at  the 

close  of  this  adventure,  to  say,  that  she  was  receiv- 
ed, and  accommodated  by  General  Gates,  with  all  the 
humanity  and  respect,  that  her  rank,  her  merits,  and 
her  fortunes  deserved." 

*  State  of  the  expedition,  &c.  page  128. 


I 


^' 


» 'H 


I 


^ 


]\ 


i 


l/'r'    ; 


1 


^  f^. 


I 

I, 


fi 


I 

I!   { 

■1   i  '  • 


/¥ 


r 


92  TOUR  BETWEEll  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 

I  omit  to  quote  General  Burgoyne's  statement,  that 
lady  Harriet  Ackland  was  detained  through  the 
night  in  the  open  boat,  because,  we  are  now  in- 
formed, on  the  authority  of  Generals  Wilkinson*  and 
Dearborn,  that  this  was  a  total  misrepresentation, 
although,  probably,  not  originating  withGeneral  Bur- 
goyne.  It  seems  General  Dearborn  (then  a  Major,) 
gommanded,  at  the  post  where  the  boat  was  hailed. 
As  soon  as  the  character  of  the  lady  was  known,  she 
was  immediately  provided  with  a  comfortable  apart- 
ment, and  refreshments,  and  fire,  and,  in  the  morn- 
ing, was  forwarded  on  her  way  to  the  camp.  "  Let 
such,'^  adds  General  Burgoyne,  "as are  affected  by. 
these  circumstances  of  alarm,  hardship,  and  danger, 
recollect  that  the  subject  of  them  was  a  woman,  of 
the  most  tender  and  delicate  frame  ;  of  the  gentlest 
manners  ;  habituated  to  all  the  soft  elegancies,  and 
refined  enjoyments,  that  attend  high  birth  and  for- 
tune; and  far  advanced  in  a  state,  in  which  the  ten- 
der cares,  always  due  to  the  sex,  become  indispen- 
sably necessary.  Her  mind  alone  was  formed  for 
such  trials.'* 

Lady  Reidesel,  immediately  on  tbe  surrender  of 
the  army,  received  on  the  spot,  from  General  Schuy- 
ler, (and  that  spot  was  his  own  devastated  estate,) 
the  most  kind  and  soothing  attentions,  which  she  and 
her  children  so  eminently  needed,  and  afterwards, 
in  the  family  of  this   magnanimous  and  generous 

*  Memoin,  Vol.  I.  p.  283.        j^g,^  -» 


# 


^ 


ent,  that 
ugh  the 
now  in- 
son*and 
mtation, 
sral  Bur- 
Major,) 
s  hailed, 
own,  she 
le  apart- 
le  morn- 
?.  "  Let 
ected  by. 
I  danger, 
Oman,  of 
gentlest 
cies,  and 
and  for- 
the  ten* 
idispen- 
ned  for 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD  A>fD  QUEBEC.       93 

man,  she  experienced  from  Mrs.  Schuyler  and  her 
daughters,  all  the  attentions  and  sympathies  o( 
friendship. 

After  the  surrender,  and  the  officers  had  gone 
over  to  General  Gates'  army,  General  Reidesel  sent 
a  message  to  his  lady,  to  come  to  him  with  her  chil- 
dren. She  says  in  her  narrative,  *'  I  seated  myself 
once  more,  in  my  dear  calash,  and  then  rode 
through  the  American  camp.  As  I  passed  on,  I 
observed,  (and  this  was  a  great  consolation  to  me,) 
that  no  one  eyed  me  with  looks  of  resentment,  but 
they  all  greeted  us,  and  even  showed  compassion  in 
their  countenances,  at  the  sight  of  a  woman  with 
small  children.  I  was,  1  confess,  afraid  to  go  over 
to  the  enemy,  as  it  was  quite  a  new  situation  to  me. 
AVhen  I  drew  near  the  tents,  a  handsome  man  ap- 
proached and  met  me,  took  my  children  from  the 
calash,  and  hugged  and  kissed  them,  which  affected 
me  almost  to  tears.  "  You  tremble,"  said  he,  ad- 
dressing himself  to  me,  "  be  not  afraid."  *'  No,"  I 
answered,  "  you  seem  so  kind  and  tender  to  ^•..-.y 
children,  it  inspires  me  with  courage."  He  nop 
led  me  to  the  tent  of  General  Gates."——'*  All 
the  Generals  remained  to  dine  withGrneral  Gates." 
"The  same  gentleman  who  received  me  so  kind- 
ly, now  came  and  said  to  me,  *'  You  will  be  very 
much  embarrassed  to  eat  with  all  these  gentlemen  ; 
come  with  your  children  to  my  tent,  where  1  will 
prepare  for  you  a  frugal  dinner,  and  give  it  with  a 
free  will."     1   said,  '*  you  are  certainly  a  hus- 


1) 


4 


il    ' 


9 


« 


99^ 


r 


i;  ^1 


u 


94      TOUR  BETWKKN    HARTFORD  AND   <tUEnKC. 

BAND  AND  A  FATHER,  you  havc  shewn  me  so  mucli 
kindness." 

**  I  now  found  that  he  was  General  Schuyler.  He 
treated  me  with  excellent  smoked  tongue,  beef- 
dteaks,  potatoes,  and  good  bread  and  butter !  Nev- 
er could  I  have  wished  to  eat  a  better  dinner  :  I 
was  content ;  I  saw  all  around  me  were  so  like- 
wise  ;  and  what  was  better  than  all,  my  husband 
was  out  of  danger !  When  we  had  dined,  he  told  me 
his  residence  was  at  Albany,  and  that  General  Bur- 
goyne  intended  to  honour  him  as  his  guest,  and  in- 
vited myself  and  children  to  do  so  likewise.  I  ask- 
ed my  husband  how  I  should  act ;  he  told  me  to 

accept  the  invitation." **  Some  days  after 

this,  we  arrived  at  Albany,  where  we  so  often  wish- 
ed ourselves  ;  but,  we  did  not  enter  it,  as  we  ex- 
pected we  should,  victors  !  We  were  received  by 
the  good  General  Schuyler,  his  wife,  and  daughters, 
not  as  enemies,  but  kind  friends  ;  and  they  treated 
us  with  the  most  marked  attention  and  politeness, 
as  they  did  General  Burgoyne,  who  had  caused 
General  Schuyler's  beautifully  finished  house  to  be 
burnt ;  in  fact,  they  behaved  like  persons  of  exalted 
minds,  who  determined  to  bury  all  recollection  of 
their  oton  injuries  in  the  contemplation  of  our  mis- 
fortunes. General  Burgoyne  was  struck  with  Gen- 
eral Schuyler's  generosity,  and  said  to  him,  '*  You 
show  me  great  kindness^  although  I  have  done  you 
much  injury."  "  Thai  was  the  fate  of  toar^^^  repli- 
ed the  brave  man,  ^'  let  us  say  no  more  about  it.* 


\   S 


t 


I 
1 


unic. 

e  so  mucti 

JYLER*   He 
gue,  beef- 
ier! Nev- 
diniier  :  I 
■e  so  like* 
y  husband 
he  told  me 
meral  Bur- 
ist,  and  in- 
se.     I  ask- 
told  me  to 
I  days  after 
often  wish- 
as  we  ex- 
•eceived  by 
daughters, 
ley  treated 
politeness, 
lad  caused 
louse  to  be 
s  of  exalted 
jllection  of 
of  our  mis- 
with  Gen- 
mm,  "  You 
e  done  you 
oaft'*  repli- 
about  it.' 


* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPORU  AND  QUEBEC.   95 

Thus,  not  only  General  Burgoyne,  hut  a  number 
of  the  most  distinguished  officers  of  the  army,  in- 
cluding Baron  Reidesel,  and  Major  Ackland,  and 
their  ladies,  were  actually  lodged  for  weeks,  and 
most  hospitably  entertained,  in  the  house  of  the 
man,  whose  elegant  villa  at  Saratoga,  they  had  wan- 
tonly* burnt,  and  whose  fine  estate  there  they  had 
spoiled. 


% 


Retiring  at  a  late  hour  to  my  bed,  it  will  be  easi- 
ly perceived,  that  the  tender  and  heroic  ideas,  as- 
sociated with  this  memorable  house,  would  strongly 
possess  my  mind.  The  night  was  mantled  in  black 
clouds,  and  impenetrable  darkness  ;  the  rain,  in- 
creasing, descended  in  torrents,  upon  the  roof  of 
this  humble  mansion  ;  the  water,  urged  from  the 
heights,  poured  with  loud  and  incessant  rumbling, 
through  a  neighbouring  aqueduct ;  and  the  Hud- 
son, as  if  conscious  that  blood  had  once  stained  its 
waters,  and  its  banks,  rolled  along  with  sullen  mur- 
murs ;— the  distinguished  persons,  who,  forty-two 
years  since,  occupied  this  tenement — the  agonized 
females— the  terrified,  imploring  children— and  the 
gallant  chiefs,  in  all  the  grandeur  of  heroic  suffering 
and  death,  were  vividly  present  to  my  mind— all  the 

*  It  was  asserted,  in  justificatioD,  that  the  house  was  burnt  to 
prevent  its  being  a  cover  for  the  Americans,  and  that  the  esUte 
was  rayajed  in  foraging;. 


r 


<i 


» 


■\ 


96   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

realities  of  the  night,  and  the  sublime  and  tender 
images  of  the  past,  conspired  to  give  my  faculties 
too  much  activity  for  sleep,  and  I  will  not  deny  that 
the  dawning  light  was  grateful  to  my  eyes ! 


h 


THE  BATTLE  GROUND. 

The  rain  having  ceased,  I  was  on  horseback  at 
early  dawn,  with  a  veteran  guide  to  conduct  me  to 
the  battle  ground.  Although  he  was  seventy-five 
years  old,  he  did  not  detain  me  a  moment ;  in  con- 
sequence of  an  appointment  the  evening  before,  he 
was  waiting  my  arrival  at  his  house,  a  mile  below 
our  inn,  and,  declining  any  aid,  he  mounted  a  tall 
horse  from  the  ground.  His  name  was  Ezra  Buel,^ 
a  native  of  Lebanon  in  Connecticut,  which  place 
he  left  in  his  youth,  and  was  settled  here,  at  the 
time  of  General  Burgoyne*s  invasion.  He  acted, 
through  the  whole  time,  as  a  guide  to  the  American 
army,  and  was  one  of  three  who  were  constantly 
employed  in  that  service.  His  duty  led  him  to  be 
always  foremost,  and  in  the  post  of  danger ;  and  he 
was,  therefore,  admirably  qualified  for  my  purpose. 

*  Called  eoUoqniaUy,  in  the  neighbourhood,  Major  Buely  a  rank 
whiuh  he  never  had  in  the  army,  but  which  was  faettiomly  as- 
signed him,  while  in  the  service,  by  his  brother  guides.  He  is 
much  respected  as  a  worthy  man.— 1820. 

Major  Bur],  I  believe,  still  lives.  I  saw  him  at  Ballston 
Springs,  in  July  18^^),  still  active  and  useful,  although  almost 
fourscore ;  he  was  then  acting  as  crier  of  a  State  Court  at  that 
time  in  session  at  Ballstown. — Mar.  1824. 


^ 


^a^ 


lEC. 


[id  tender 

faculties 

deny  that 


i! 


seback  at 
uct  me  to 
venty-fivc 
t ;  in  con- 
before,  he 
lile  below 
kted  a  tall 
sra  Buel,* 
lich  place 
;re,  at  the 
rie  acted, 
American 
constantly 
lim  to  be 
;  and  he 
purpose. 

Budt  a  rank 
leeliomljf  as- 
ides.   He  18 

at  Ballston 
ough  almost 
ourt  at  that 


T0UR  BETWEEN  UARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC   97 

The  two  great  battles  which  decided  the  fate  of 
Burgoyne'a  army,  were  fought,  the  first  on  the  19th 
of  September,  and  the  last,  on  the  7th  of  October, 
on  Bemus'  heights,  and  very  nearly  on  the  same 
ground,  which  is  about  two  miles  west  of  the  river. 

The  river  is,  in  this  region,  bordered  for  many 
miles,  by  a  continued  meadow,  of  no  great  breadth  ; 
upon  this  meadow,  there  was  then,  as  there  is  now, 
a  good  road,  close  to  the  river,  and  parallel  to  it. 
Upon  this  road,  marched  the  heavy  artillery  and 
baggage,  constituting  the  left  wing  of  the  British  ar- 
my, while  the  Elite,  forming  the  right  wing  and 
composed  of  the  light  troops,  was  kept  constantly 
in  advance,  on  the  heights  which  bound  the  meadows. 

The  American  army  was  south  and  west  of  the 
British,  its  right  wing  on  the  river,  and  its  left  rest- 
ing on  the  height^!.  We  passed  over  a  part  of  their 
camp  a  little  below  Stillwater.* 

*  Id  May  1821, 1  again  visited  these  battle  grounds,  and  arailed 
myself  of  that  opportunity,  in  company  with  my  faithful  old  guide 
Major  Buel,  to  explore  the  camp  of  General  Gates.  It  is  situated 
about  three  miles  below  Smith's  tavern,  (the  house  where  General 
Frazer  died,)  and  is  easily  approached  by  a  cross  road,  which  turns 
up  the  heights  from  the  great  river  road.  It  is  not  more  than  half  a 
mile  from  the  river  to  the  camp.  I  found  it  an  intere«t,ing  place,and 
would  recommend  it  to  travellers  to  visit  this  spot,  as  they  will 
thus  obtain  a  perfectly  clear  idea  of  the  relative  position  of  the 
hostile  armies,  and  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  Americans  when 
they  marched  out  to  battle.-  The  outlines  of  the  camp  are  still  dis- 
tinctly visible,  being  marked  by  the  lines  of  delience,  which  were 
thrown  up  on  the  occasion,  and  which,  although  depressed  by 
time,  will  long  be  conspicuous,  if  they  are  not  levelled  by  the 
plough.  My  guide  pointed  out  the  ground  occupied  by  the  differ- 
ent corps  of  the  army.    Col.  Morgan,  with  the  Vii^inian  Rifle* 

9* 


^■i 


(  ,1M 


J 


Ji 


i 


# 


% 


98  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

A  great  part  of  the  battle  ground  was  occupied 
by  lofty  forest  trees,  principally  pine,  with  here  and 
there,  a  few  cleared  fields,  of  which  the  most  con- 
men  was  in  advance,  on  the  ri°;ht,  that  is,  nearest  the  river ;  the 
advance,  was  the  post  always  coveted  by  this  incomparable  corps, 
and  surely  none  could  claim  it  with  more  propriety.  There  was 
much  danger  that  the  enemy  would  attempt  to  storm  the  camp  of 
the  Americans,  and  had  they  been  successful  in  either  of  the 
great  battles  (Sept.  19,  and  Jot.  7,)  they  would,  without  doubt, 
have  attacked  the  camp. 

The  most  interesting  object  that  I  saw  in  this  cam pi  was  the 
house  which  was  Gen.  Gates'  head  quarters.  I  am  afraid  that  the 
traveller  may  not  long  find  tiiis  memorable  house,  for  it  was  much 
dilapidated — a  part  of  (he  roof  had  fallen  in,  and  the  winds  whis- 
tled through  the  naked  timbers.  One  room  was  however,  tenant* 
able,  and  was  occupied  by  a  cooper  and  his  family.  From  the 
style  of  the  pannel  work  and  finishing  of  this  room,  the  house  ap> 
pears  to  have  been,  in  its  day,  one  of  the  better  sort — the  pan- 
sels  were  large  and  handsome,  and  the  door  was  still  ornamented 
with  brass  handles. — Here  Sir  Francis  Clark,  Aid  du  Camp  to 
Gen.  Burgoyne,  being  mortally  wounded  and  takea  prisoner,  lan- 
guished and  ilied  Gen.  Wilkinson  has  recorded  some  interesting 
passages  of  his  last  moments,  particularly  his  animated  discus* 
•ion  with  Gen.  Gates  on  the  merits  of  the  contest.  The  recollec- 
tion of  the  fate  of  this  brave  but  unfortunate  officer  will  always  be 
associated  with  this  building,  while  a  single  timber  of  it  remains. 

My  guide  conducted  me  from  the  American  camp  along  the 
summit  of  the  heights,  by  the  same  route,  which  was  pursued  by 
our  gallant  countrymen,  when  they  advanced  to  meet  Uieir  for- 
midable foe,  and  I  hud  the  satisfaction  of  treading  (he  ground 
which  they  trotl,  in  the  silence  and  siolcmnity  of  impending  couflict. 

In  pursuing  this  route,  the  traveller,  if  accompanied  by  an  in- 
telligent guide,  will  have  a  very  interesting  op|)ortuni(y  of  mark- 
ing the  exact  places  where  the  advanced  guards  and  front  lines  of 
the  contending  armies  met .  In  this  manner  we  advanced  quite  to 
Freeman's  farm,  the  great  scene  of  slaughter,  and  tK^nceaescend- 
ed  again  to  the  centre  of  the  British  encampment  on  the  plains. 


-^  -- 


DEC. 

occupied 
here  and 
lost  con- 

!  river ;  the 
•able  corps, 
There  was 
:he  camp  of 
ther  of  the 
lout  doubt, 

ip,was  the 
aid  that  the 
\.  was  much 
'inds  whis- 
ker, teDant- 
From  the 
3  house  ap- 
— the  pan- 
irnnmented 
1  Camp  to 
isuner,  lan- 
intercsting^ 
ted  discus- 
le  recollec- 
l  always  be 
it  remains. 
» along  the 
pursued  by 
Uieir  for- 
I  he  ground 
ig  couflict. 
I  by  an  in- 
y  of  mark - 
)nt  iinei  of 
ed  quite  to 
e  uescend- 
le  plains. 


«DUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   QUEBEC.      99 

spicuous  in  these  sanguinary  scenes,  was  called 
Freeman's  farm,  and  is  so  called  in  General  Bur- 
goyne's  plans.  Such  is  nearly  the  present  situaion 
of  these  heights,  only  there  is  more  cleared  land; 
the  gigantic  trees  have  been  principally  felled,  but 
a  considerable  number  remain  as  witnesses  to  pos- 
terity ;  they  still  show  the  wounds,  made  in  their 
trunks  and  branches,  by  the  missiles  of  contending 
armies  ;  their  roots  still  penetrate  the  soil,  that  wag 
made  fruitful  by  the  blood  of  the  brave,  and  their 
aombre  foliage  still  murmurs  with  the  breeze,  which 
once  sighed,  as  it  bore  the  departing  spirits  along. 

My  veteran  guide,  warmed  by  my  curiosity,  and 
recalling  the  feelings  of  his  prime,  led  me,  with 
amazing  rapidity,  and  promptitude,  over  fences  and 
ditches— through  water  and  mire  — through  ravines 
and  defiles  —through  thick  forests,  and  open  fields  — 
and  up  and  down  very  steep  hills  ;  in  short,  through 
many  places,  where,  alone,  I  would  not  have  ven- 
tured; but,  it  would  have  been  shameful  for  me 
not  to  follow  where  a  man  of  seventy-live  would 
lead,  and  to  hesitate  to  explore  inpcace^  the  ground, 
which  the  defenders  of  their  country,  and  their 
foes  once  trod,  in  steps  of  blood. 

On  our  way  to  Freeman's  farm,  we  traced  the 
line  of  the  British  encampment,  still  marked  by  a 
breast  work  of  logs,  now  rotten,  but  retaining  their 
forms  ;  they  were,  at  the  time,  covered  with  earth, 
and  the  barrier  between  contending  armies,  is  now 
a  fence,  to  mark  the  peaceful  divisions  of  agricul- 
ture.    This  breast  work,  I  cuppose  to  be  a  part  of 


I 


■t 

■A 

t 

\  t 
I 


'/ :  1 


^ 


V 


■ 


I 


100   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUBBEC« 

the  line  of  encampment,  occupied  by  General  Bur- 
goyne,  after  the  battle  of  the  19th  of  September, 
and  which  was  stormed  on  the  evening  of  the  7th  of 
October. 

The  old  man  showed  me  the  exact  spot,  where 
an  accidental  skirmish,  between  advanced  parties  of 
the  two  armies,  soon  brought  on  the  general  and 
bloodybattle  of  September  19. 

This  was  on  Freeman^s  farm,  a  field  which  was 
then  cleared,  although  surrounded  by  forest.  The 
British  picket  here  occupied  a  small  house,*  when 
a  part  of  Co).  Morgan's  corps  fell  in  with,  and  im- 
mediately drove  them  from  it,  leaving  the  hou^e  al- 
most "  encircled  with  their  dead."  The  pursuing 
party,  immediately,  and  very  unexpectedly,  fell  in 
with  the  British  line,  and  were  in  part  captured, 
and  the  rest  dispersed. 

This  incident  occurred  at  half  past  12  o'clock  ; 
there  was  then  an  intermission  till  one,  when  the 
action  was  sharply  renewed  ;  but  it  did  not  become 
general,  till  three,  from  which  time  it  raged  with 
unabated  fury,  till  night.  *'  The  theatre  of  action'* 
(says  General  Wilkinson,!  was  such  that  although 
the  combatants  changed  ground  a  dozen  times,  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on  the  spot 
where  it  began.     This  may  be  explained  in  a  few 

•  Major  Forbes,  of  the  Britiah  army,  itates,  that  the  American 
picket  txsoupied  the  house;  both  facts  might  have  been  true  at 
different  periods  of  the  affair. 


k 

i 


f   I 


t  Memoirs,  Vol.  I.  p.  240. 


IUEBEC« 

oeral  Bur 
September, 
the  7th  of 

ot,  where 

parties  of 

ioeral  and 

i^hich  was 
est.  The 
se,*  when 
)  and  im- 
house  al- 
pursuing 
ly,  fell  in 
captured, 

o'clock  ; 
pyhen  the 
t  become 
;ed  with 
r  action'* 
although 
ss,  in  the 
the  spot 
in  a  few 

Atnericao 
n  true  nt 


il 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  101 

words.  The  British  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence 
in  a  thin  pine  wood,  having  befo  o  it  Freoman's 
farm,  an  oblong  field,  stretching  from  the  centre  to- 
wards its  right,  the  grotmd  in  front  sloping  gently 
down  to  the  verge  of  this  field,  which  was  bordered, 
on  the  opposite  side,  by  a  close  wood :  the  sanguina- 
ry scene  lay  in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the  emi- 
nence occupied  by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood  just 
described;  the  fire  of  our  marksmen  from  thig 
wood,  was  too  deadly  to  be  withstood,  by  the  ene- 
my, in  line,  and  when  they  gave  way  and  broke, 
our  men  rushing  from  their  covert,  pursued  them  to 
the  eminence,  where,  having  their  flanks  protect- 
ed, they  rallied,  and  charging  in  turn,  drove  us  back 
into  the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful  fire  would 
again  force  them  to  fall  back ;  and  in  this  manner, 
did  the  battle  fluctuate,  like  waves  of  a  stormy  sea, 
with  alternate  advantages  for  four  hours,  without 
one  moment's  intermission.  The  British  artillery 
fell  init)  our  possession,  at  every  charge,  but  we 
could  neither  turn  the  pieces  upon  the  enemy  nor 
bring  them  off;  the  wood  prevented  the  last,  and 
the  want  of  a  match  the  first,  as  the  lintstock  was 
invariably,  carried  off,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  tran- 
sitions did  not  allow  us  time  to  provide  one ;  the 
slaughter  of  this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remarka- 
ble, the  Captain  (Jones)  and  thirty-six  men  being 
killed  or  wounded  out  of  forty-eight.  It  was  truly 
a  gallant  conflict,  in  which  death,  by  familiarity,  lost 
his  terrors,  and  certainly  a  drawn  battle,  as  night 


1 


I 


1 


.r*     *  "^ 


103  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


F'  *! 


iv 


'■'my) 


alone  terminated  it :  the  British  army  keeping  its 
ground  in  rear  of  the  field  of  action,  and  our  corps, 
when  they  could  no  longer  distinguish  objects,  re- 
tiring to  their  own  camp.  Yet  General  Bui^oyne 
claimed  a  victory.^' 

It  had,  however,  with  respect  to  him,  all  the  con- 
sequences of  a  defeat:  his  loss  was  between  five 
and  six  hundred,  while  ours  was  but  little  more  than 
half  that  number;  his  loss  was  irreparable,  ours 
easily  repaired,  and  in  proportion  to  our  entire  ar- 
my, as  well  as  absolutely,  it  was  much  less  than  his. 

The  stress  of  the  action  as  regards  the  British, 
lay,  principally  on  the  twentieth,  twenty-first  and 
sixty-second  regiments ;  the  latter  which  was  fire 
hundred  strong  when  it  left  Canada,  was  reduced 
to  less  than  sixty-men,  and  to  four  or  five  officers.* 

General  Burgoyne  states  that  there  was  scarcely 
ever  an  interval  of  a  minute  in  the  smoke,  when 
some  British  officer  was  not  shot  by  the  American 
riflemen,  posted  in  the  trees,  in  the  rear  and  on  the 
flank  of  their  own  line.  A  shot  which  was  meant 
for  General  Burgoyne,  severely  wounded  Captain 
Green,  an  Aid  du  Camp  of  General  Phillips:  the 
mistake  was  owing  to  the  Captain^s  having  a  richly 
laced  furniture  to  his  saddle,  which  caused  the 
marksman  to  mistake  him  for  the  General. 

Such  was  the  ardor  of  the  Americans,  that,  as 
General  Wilkinson  states,  the  wounded  men,  after 


*  Gordon. 


\1 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  103 

having  their  wounds  dressed,  in  many  instances,  re- 
turned again  into  the  battle. 

The  battle  of  the  seventh  of  October  was  fought 
on  the  same  ground,  but  it  was  not  so  stationary  ; 
it  commenced  farther  to  the  right,  and  extended,  in 
its  various  periods,  over  more  surface,  eventually 
occupying  not  only  Freeman's  farm,  but  it  was 
urged  by  the  Americans,  to  the  very  camp  of  the 
enemy,  which,  towards  night,  was  most  impetuous- 
ly stormed,  and  in  part  carried. 

The  interval  between  the  nineteenth  of  Septem- 
ber, and  the  seventh  of  October,  was  one  of  great 
anxiety  to  both  armies  ;  ***not  a  night  passed,  (adds 
General  Burgoyne,)  without  firing,  and  sometimes 
concerted  attacks  upon  our  pickets ;  no  foraging 
party  could  be  made  without  great  detachments  to 
cover  it ;  it  was  the  plan  of  the  enemy  to  harrass 
the  army,  by  constant  alarms,  and  their  superiority 
of  numbers  enabled  them  to  attempt  it,  without  fa- 
tigue  to  themselves.  By  being  habituated  to  fire, 
our  soldiers  became  indifferent  to  it,  and  were  ca- 
pable of  eating  or  sleeping  when  it  was  very  near 
them ;  but  I  do  not  believe  that  either  officer  or 
soldier  ever  slept  during  that  interval,  without  his 
clothes,  or  that  any  general  officer,  or  commander 
of  a  regiment,  passed  a  single  night,  without  being 
upon  his  legs,  occasionally,  at  different  hours,  and 
constantly,  an  hour  before  day  light." 

*  Stnte  of  the  Expedition 


fi 


i 


104  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


* 


\ 


The  battle  of  the  seventh  was  brought  on  by  a 
movement  of  General  Burgoyne,  who  caused  one 
thousand  five  hundred  men,  with  ten  pieces  of 
artillery,  to  march  towards  the  left  of  the  American 
army  for  the  purpose  of  discovering  whether  it  was 
possible  to  force  a  passage  ;  or  in  case  a  retreat  of 
the  royal  army  should  become  indispensable,  to  dis- 
lodge the  Americans  from  their  intrenchments,  and 
also  to  cover  a  foraging  excursion  which  had  now  be- 
come pressingly  necessary.  It  was  about  the  middle 
of  the  afternoon,  that  the  British  were  observed  ad- 
vancing, and  the  Americans,  with  small  arms,  lost 
no  time  in  attacking  the  British  grenadiers  and  ar- 
tillery, although  under  a  tremendous  (ire  from  the 
latter  ;  the  battle  soon  extended  along  the  whole 
line :  Colonel  Morgan,  at  the  same  moment,  attack- 
ed, with  his  riflemen,  on  the  right  wing;  Colonel 
Ackland,  the  commander  of  the  grenadiers,  fell, 
wounded ;  the  grenadiers  were  defeated,  and  most 
of  the  artillery  taken,  after  great  slaughter. 

At  the  end  of  a  most  sanguinary  contest,  of  less  than 
one  hour,  the  discomfiture  and  retreat  of  the  British 
became  general,  and  they  had  scarcely  regained  their 
camp,  before  the  lines  were  stormed  with  the  great- 
est fury,  and  part  of  Lord  Balcarras'  camp,  was  for 
a  short  time  in  our  possession. 

I  saw  this  spot,  and  also  (hat  where  the  Germani, 
under  Colonel  Breyman,  forming  the  right  reserve 
of  (he  army,  were  stormed,  in  their  encampment, 
by  General   Learned,  and  Colonel  Brooks,  now 


I  i 


TOCR  BETWEKN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  105 

Governor  Brooks,  of  Massachusetts.     General  Ar- 
nold was  wounded  on  this  occasion ;  Colonel  Brey- 
man  was  killed  ;  and  the  Germans  were  either  cap- 
tured,  slain,  or  forced  to  retreat  in  the  most  precip- 
itate manner,  leaving  the  British  encampment  on 
the  right,  entirely  unpiotected,  and  liable  to  be  as- 
sailed the  next  morning.     All  the  British  officers 
bear  testimony  to  the  valour  and  obstinacy  of  the  at- 
tacks of  the  Americans.    The  fact  was,  the  British 
were  sorely  defeated,  routed,  and  vigorously  pur- 
sued to  their  lines,  which  it  seems  probable,  would 
have  been  entirely  carried  by  assault,  had  not  dark- 
ness, as  in  the  battle  of  the  19th,  put  an  end  to  the 
sanguinary  contest.     It  is  obvious,   from  General 
Burgoyne's  own  account,  and  from  the  testimony 
of  his  officers,  that  this  was  a  severe  defeat ;  and 
such  an  one  as  has  rarely  been  experienced  by  a 
British  army ;  this  army  was  reduced  by  it  to  the 
greatest  distress,  and  nothing  but  night  saved  them 
from  destruction. 

I  was  on  the  ground  where  the  grenadiers,  and 
where  the  artillery  were  stationed.  "  Here,  upon 
this  hill,^*  (said  my  hoary  guide,)  on  the  yery  spot 
where  we  now  stand,  the  dead  men  lay,  thicker 
than  ever  you  saw  sheaves  on  a  fruitful  harvest 
field."  "Were  they  British,  or  Americans?'* 
*'Both,"  he  replied,  "but  principally  British."  I 
suppose  that  it  is  of  this  ground,  that  General  Wil- 
kinson remarks,  "  it  presented  a  scene  of  compli- 
cated horror  and  exultation.     In  the  square  space 


«'* 


10 


V 


I ' 


106  TOUR   BETWEEN   BABTrORU   AND   ^UKBEV. 

of  twelve  or  fifteen  yards,  lay  eighteen  grenadiers 
in  the  agony  of  death  ;  and  three  officers,  propped 
up  against  stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mortally 
wounded,  bleeding,  and  almost  speechless.'^ 

My  guide,  proceeding  with  his  narrative,  said, 
^  there  stood  a  British  field  piece,  which  bad  been 
twice  taken,  and  retaken,  and  finally  remained  in 
our  possession  :  I  was  on  the  ground,  and  said  to 
an  American  Colonel,  who  came  up  at  the  mo- 
ment, *  Colonel,  we  have  taken  this  piece,  and  now 
we  want  you  to  swear  it  true  to  America  ;^  so  the 
Colonel  swore  it  true,  and  we  turned  it  around,  and 
tired  upon  the  British,  with  their  own  cannon,  and 
with  their  own  ammunition,  still  remaining  uncon- 
sumed  in  their  boxes."  I  presume  General  Wil- 
kinson alludes  to  the  same  anecdote,  when  he  says, 
*'  I  found  the  courageous  Colonel  Cilley  a  straddle 
on  a  brass  twelve  pounder,  and  exulting  in  the  cap- 
ture. 


?? 


I  was  solicitous  to  see  the  exact  spot  where  Gen- 
eral Frazer,  received  his  mortal  wound.  My  old 
guide  knew  it  perfectly  well,  and  pointed  it  out  to 
me.  It  is  in  a  meadow,  just  ob  the  right  of  the 
road,  after  passing  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  going 
south  a  few  rods.  The  blacksmith's  shop,  is  on  a 
road,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  Hudson  — it  stands 
elevated,  and  overlooks  Freeman's  farm. 

The  night  of  October  7th,  was  a  most  critical  one 
for  the  royal  army  j  in  the  course  of  it,  they  aban- 


M 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPORD  AND  QUEBEC.  107 

doncd  their  camp,  changed  their  whole  position,  and 
retreated  to  their  works  upon  the  heights,  contigu- 
ous to  the  river,  and  immediately  behind  the  hos 

I  saw  various  places,  where  the  dead  were  inter* 
red ;  a  rivulet,  or  creek,  passes  through  the  battle 
ground,  and  still  washes  out  from  its  banks,  the 
bonos  of  the  slain.  This  rivulet  is  often  mentioned 
ill  the  accounts  of  these  battles,  and  the  deep  ravine 
through  which  it  passes  ;  on  our  return,  we  follow- 
ed this  ravine,  and  rivulet,  through  the  greater  part 
of  their  course,  till  they  united  with  the  Fludson 
river. 

Farm  houses  are  dispersed,  here  and  there,  over 
the  field  of  battle,  and  the  people  often  find,  even 
now,  gun-barrels  and  bayonets,  cannon  balls,  grape 
shot,  bullets,  and  human  bones.  Of  the  three  last,  I 
took  from  one  of  these  people,  some  painful  speci- 
mens ; — some  of  the  bullets  were  battered  and  mis- 
shaped, evincing  that  they  had  come  into  collision 
with  opposing  obstacles. 

Entire  skeletons  are  occasionally  found  ;  a  man 
told  me,  that,  in  ploughing,  during  the  late  summer, 
he  turned  one  up  ;  it  was  not  covered  more  than 
three  inches  with  earth ;  it  lay  on  its  side,  and  the 
arms  were  in  the  form  of  a  bow  ;  it  was,  probably; 
some  solitary  victim,  that  never  was  buried.  Such 
are  the  memorials  still  existing,  of  these  great  mili- 
tary events ;  great,  not  so  much  on  account  of  the 
numbers  of  the  actors,  as  from  the  momentous  iute- 


\ 


i, 


i 


1 


V- '  I 


108    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND    (QUEBEC. 

rests  at  stake,  and  from  the  magnanimous  efforts  to 
which  they  gave  origin. 

I  would  not  envy  that  man  his  state  of  feeling,  who 
could  visit  such  fields  of  battle  without  emotion,  or 
who,  (being  an  American,)  could  fail  to  indulge  admi- 
ration and  affection,  for  the  soldiers  and  martyrs  of 
liberty,  and  respect  for  the  valour  of  their  enemies. 


GENERAL  FRAZER'S  GRAVE. 


'?  '», 


t 


Having  taken  my  guide  home  to  breakfast,  we 
made  use  of  his  knowledge  of  the  country,  to  iden« 
tify  with  certainty,  the  place  of  General  Frazer's 
interment. 

General  Burgoyne  mentions,  two  redoubts,  that 
were  thrown  up,  on  the  hills  behind  his  hospital  ; 
they  are  both  still  very  distinct,  and  in  one  of  these, 
which  is  called  the  great  redoubt,  by  the  officers  of 
General  Bui^oyne's  army.  General  Frazer  was  bu- 
ried. It  is  true,  it  has  been  disputed,  which  is  the 
redoubt  in  question,  but  our  guide  stated  to  us,  that 
within  his  knowledge,  a  British  Sergeant,  three  or 
four  years,  after  the  surrender  of  Bui^oyne's  army, 
came,  and  pointed  out  the  grave.  We  went  to  the 
spot;  it  is  within  the  redoubt,  on  the  top  of  the  hill, 
nearest  to  the  house,  where  the  General  died,  and 
corresponds  with  the  plate    in  Anbury's  travels, 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    I^UEBEC.    109 

taken  from  an  original  drawing,  made  by  Sir  Francis 
Clark,  aid  de  camp  to  General  Burgoyne,  and  with 
the  statement  of  the  General  in  his  defence,  as  well 
as  with  the  account  of  Madam  Reidesel. 

General Frazer,  when  dying, sent  with  the  "kind- 
est expression  of  his  affection,  for  General  Burgoyne, 
a  request,  that  he  might  be  carried  without  parade, 
by  the  soldiers  of  his  corps,  to  the  great  redoubt, 
and  buried  there.'' 

The  circumstances  of  this  memorable  interment, 
have  been  often  mentioned. 

The  body,  attended  by  General  Burgoyne,  and 
the  other  principal  officers  of  the  army,  who  could 
not  resist  the  impulse  to  join  the  procession,  moved, 
winding  slowly  up  the  hill,  within  view  of  the  great- 
er part  of  both  armies,  while  an  incessant  cannonade* 
from  the  Americans,  who  observed  a  collection  of 
people,  without  knowing  the  occasion,  covered  the 
procession  with  dust  ;  — the  clergyman,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Brudenel,  went  through  the  funeral  service, 
withperfectcomposure,  and  propriety,  notwithstand- 
ing the  cannonade,  and  thus  the  last  honors  were 
paid  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  British  army. 

*  I  am  happy  for  the  honour  of  my  country,  to  add,  on  the  au- 
thority of  Gen.  Winalow,  who  commanded  the  gun,  which 
was  fired  on  this  occasion,  that  as  soon  as  they  discovered  that  it 
was  a  funeral  procession,  they  ceased  firing;  shot,  and  commenced 
firing  minute  guns — a  high  minded  mark  of  respect,  sometimes 
shown,  when  a  distinguished  enemy  is  buried.    1824. 

,  {Private  eomtnwiicalion  to  the  author.) 

10* 


t 


i 


\h 


'-.*./ 


'\\ 


-^e-<  V' 


f  \) 


no  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

The  Baroness  Reidesel,  who  was  a  spectator, 
speaks  of  the  funeral  service,  as  being  "  rendered 
unusually  solemn  and  awful,  from  its  being  accom- 
panied by  constant  peals  from  the  enemy's  artillery ,'' 
and  adds—  ^^  many  cannon  balls,  flew  close  by  me, 
but  1  had  my  eyes  directed  to  the  mountain  where 
my  husband  was  standing  amidst  the  fire  of  the  ene- 
my, and  of  course,  I  could  not  think  of  my  own 
danger.'' 

General  Burgoyne's  eloquent  delineation  of  the 
same  scene,  although  often  quoted  before  by  oth- 
ers, is  too  interesting  to  be  omitted  on  the  pres* 
ent  occasion  :  — "  The  incessant  cannonade,  during 
the  solemnity  ;  the  steady  attitude  and  unaltered 
voice,  with  which  the  clergyman  officiated,  though 
frequently  covered  with  dust,  which  the  shot  threw 
up  on  all  sides  of  him  ;  the  mute  but  expressive 
mixture  of  sensibility  and  indignation,  upon  every 
countenance  ;  these  objects  will  remain,  to  the  last 
of  life,  upon  the  mind  of  every  man  who  was  present. 
The  growing  duskiness,  added  to  the  scenery,  and 
the  whole  marked  a  character  of  that  juncture,  that 
would  make  one  of  the  finest  subjects  for  the  pencil 
of  a  master,  that  the  field  ever  exhibited.  To  the 
canvass  and  to  the  page  of  a  more  important  histo- 
rian, gallant  friend  !  I  consign  thy  memory.  There 
may  thy  talents,  thy  manly  virtues,  their  progress 
and  their  period,  find  due  distinction  ;  and  long  may 
they  survive  ;  long  after  the  frail  record  of  my  pen 
shall  be  forgotten  "  ' 


<  f 


# 


ZBEC* 

spectator, 
'  rendered 
ng  accom- 
artillery," 
►se  by  me, 
ain  where 
f  the  ene- 
r  my  own 

ion  of  the 
e  by  oth- 
the  pres* 
de,  during 
unaltered 
id,  though 
hot  threw 
expressive 
3on  every 
to  the  last 
is  present, 
inery,  and 
ture, that 
the  pencil 
To  the 
tant  histo- 
.  There 
progress 
long  may 
>f  my  pen 


^  •« 


!.■' 


1 


TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD    AND   ^CEBEC.    tit 

The  place  of  the  interment,  was  formerly  desig- 
nated, by  a  little  fence,  surrounding  the  grave.  I 
was  here  in  1797,  twenty-two  years  ago,  the  grave 
was  then  distinctly  visible,  but  the  remains  have  been 
since  dug  up,  by  some  English  gentlemen,  aod  car- 
ried to  England.* 

The  circumstances  of  the  British  were  now  very 
distressing,  and  they  constantly  expected  a  renewed 
attack  from  the  Americans.  Speaking  of  the  death 
of  General  Frazer,  General  Burgoync  remarks  : 
"  The  whole  of  the  8th  of  October  was  correspond- 
ent to  this  inauspicious  beginning.  The  hours  were 
measured  by  a  succession  of  immediate  cares,  in- 
creasing doubts  and  melancholy  objects.  The  ene- 
my were  formed  in  two  lines.  Every  part  of  their 
disposition,  as  well  as  the  repeated  attacks  on  lord 
Balcarras'  corps,  and  the  cannonade  from  the 
plain,  kept  the  troops  in  momentary  expectation  of 
a  general  action.  During  this  suspense,  wounded 
officers,  some  upon  crutches,  and  others  even  carri- 
ed upon  hand  barrows,  by  their  servants,  were  oc- 
casionally ascending  the  hill,  from  the  hospital 
tents,  to  take  their  share  in  the  action,  or  follow  the 
march  of  the  army.  The  Generals  were  employed 
in  exhorting  the  troops." 

*  Such  was  the  statement  made  to  me  by  th«  people  in  the  vi- 
cinity, but  I  have  since,  heard  doubts  expressed  of  the  correct- 
ness of  this  report,  by  a  gentleman,  who  has  made  the  history  of 
thiscampaignanobject  of  much  inquiry.    1824. 


M 


■   J 

it 
)   ^ 


If 


■*■ 


112  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


I   1' 


That  commander,  who,  in  the  commencement  of 
the  campaign,  had  uttered  in  his  general  orders,  the 
memorable  sentiment— "  this  army  must  not  re- 
treat," was  now  compelled  to  seek  his  safety  by 
stealing  away  in  the  night,  from  his  victorious  ene- 
my. Numerous  fires  were  lighted — several  tents 
left  standing,  and  the  retreat  was  ordered  to  be  con- 
ducted with  the  greatest  secrecy.  The  army  com- 
menced its  retrograde  motion  at  nine  o'clock  on 
the  night  of  the  eighth,  pursuing  the  river  road  , 
through  the  mcadov.'s.  It  moved  all  night ;  but  the 
succeeding  day  was  excessively  rainy,  and  the  roads 
so  bad,  that  they  did  not  reach  Saratoga,  a  distance 
of  only  six  miles,  till  the  evening  of  the  ninth.  The 
rains  had  so  swelled  the  Fishkill,  that  they  did  not 
pass  that  rivulet  till  the  morning  of  the  tenth,  when, 
finding  their  enemies  already  in  possession  of  the 
fords  of  the  Hudson,  they  took  up  a  strong  position 
which  proved  their  final  one. 

General  Burgoyne  left  his  hospital,  containing 
more  than  three  hundred  sick  and  wounded,  to  the 
mercy  of  General  Gates,  who  in  this,  as  in  all  other 
instances,  exhibited  towards  the  eneray^  the  greatest 
humanity  and  kindness. 

The  house,  where  Mr.  W.  and  myself  lodged,  was 
the  centre  of  this  military  hospital,  and  was  occupi- 
ed by  the  wounded  officers,  while  the  common  sol- 
diers were  comfortably  accommodatedi  in  the  vicin- 
ity, in  tents. 


^ 


:^%^.p-^^    .■  •  — 


TEBEC. 


I   TOUR   BETWfiEV   HARTFOBD   AND    QUEBEC.   113 


cement  of 
>rders,  the 
not   re- 
safety  by 
•ious  ene- 
eral  tents 
to  be  con- 
rmy  com- 
'clock  on 
^er  road  , 
;  but  the 
the  roads 
1  distance 
lb.     The 
y  did  not 
th,  when, 
m  of  the 
position 

ontaining 
d,  to  the 
all  other 
'  greatest 

ged,  was 

occupi- 

lon  sol- 

e  vicin- 


I 


II 


f 


The  researches  and  observations  of  the  morning 
had  detained  us  till  rather  a  late  hour,  when,  taking 
leave  of  our  venerable  guide,*  we  proceeded  north- 
ward on  our  journey,  pursuing  exactly  the  route  of 
the  retreating  British  army. 


THE  LAST  ENCAMPMENT. 

Six  days  more  of  anxiety,  fatigue  and  sufTering, 
remained  for  the  British  army.  They  had  lost  part 
of  their  provision  batteaux,  when  they  abandon^ 
od  the  hospital,  and  the  rest  being  exposed  to  im* 
minent  danger,  the  small  stock  of  provisions  re- 
maining, was  landed  under  a  heavy  fire,  and  hauled 
up  the  heights.  On  these  heights,  near  to  the 
meadows  bordering  on  the  river,  they  formed  a  for- 
tified camp,  and  strengthened  it  by  artillery.  Most 
of  the  artillery  however,  was  on  the  plain.  Gene- 
ral Gates*  army  soon  followed  that  of  Burgoyne,  and 
stretched  along  south  of  the  Fishkill,  and  parallel 
to  it ;  the  corps  of  Colonel  Morgan  ,  lay  west  and 
north  of  the  British  army,  and  General  Fellows 
with  three  thousand  men,  was  on  the  east  of  the  Hud- 
son, ready  to  dispute  the  passage.  Fort  Edward  was 

*  I  must  not,  however,  leave  him  without  mtptioniDg  that  he 
wai  wounded  in  this  campaign:  he  bared  hinged  breast,  and 
showed  me  where  a  bullet  had  rak«'d  along,  superficially,  cutting 
the  outer  integuments  of  the  thorax,  and  carrying  with  it  into  the 
wound,  portions  of  bis  clothes. 


.1 

'>* 

■'i' 

t 

ti 

* 

t  i 

,' 

is- 

M 

"^ 

• 

V  / 


14 


I' 


^ 


w 


V' 


114  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

soon  after  occupied  by  the  Americans— a  fortified 
camp  was  formed  on  the  high  ground,  between  the 
Hudson  and  Lake  George,  and  parties  wereistationed 
up  and  down  the  river;  thus,  the  desperate  resolu- 
tion which  had  been  taken  in  General  Burgoyne's 
camp,  of  abandoning  their  artillery  and  bai^gage, 
and  (with  no  more  provisions  than  they  could  carry 
on  their  backs.)  forcing  their  way  by  a  rapid  night 
march,  and  in  this  manner  gaining  one  of  ihe  lakes, 
was  rendered  abortive. 

Every  part  of  the  camp  of  the  royal  army  was 
exposed,  not  only  to  cannon  balls,  but  to  rifle  shot; 
not  a  single  place  of  safety  could  be  foun<J,  not  a  cor- 
ner where  a  council  could  be  held,  a  dinner  taken  in 
peace,  or  where  the  sick,  and  the  wounded,  the 
females  and  the  children  could  find  an  asylum. — 
Even  the  access  to  the  river  was  rendered  very  haz- 
ardous by  the  numerojis  rifleshot;  and  the  army 
was  soon  distressed  for  want  of  water.  General 
Keidesel,  and  his  lady  and  children,  were  often 
obliged  to  drink  wine  instead  of  water,  and  they  had 
no  way  to  procure  the  latter,  ex<;ept  that  a  soldier's 
wife  ventured  to  the  river  for  them,  and  the  Amer- 
icans, out  of  respect  to  her  sex,  did  not  fire  at  her. 

To  protect  his  family  from  shot.  General  Keide- 
sel, soon  after  their  arrival  at  Saratoga,  directed 
them  to  takSlhelter,  m  a  house  not  far  off.  They 
had  scarcely  reached  it,  before  a  terrible  cannonade 


wl 
tal 
>t.| 


it 

ho| 
Mc 
B- 


m 


,  I  ' 


■^- 


UEBEC. 

-a  fortified 
etween  the 
re  stationed 
rate  resolu- 
Burgoyne*s 
d  ba<^gage, 
ould  carry 
rapid  night 
r  the  lakes, 

army  was 
rifle  shot; 
,  not  a  cor- 
er  taken  in 
inded,  the 
asylum. — 
very  haz- 
the  army 
Genera! 
ere  often 
1  they  had 
I  soldier's 
le  Ainer- 
e  at  her. 
il  Reide- 
directed 
They 
mnonade 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND   <iUEBEC.  115 

was  directed  against  that  very  bouse,^  upon  the  mis- 
taken idea,  that  all  the  Generals  were  assembled  in 
it.     "  Alas,''  adds  the  Baroness,  ^'  it  contained  none 

*  At  the  time  of  writing  th«  account  in  the  text,  I  was  ignorant 
that  this  house  was  still  in  existence.  It  is  not  only  standing,  but 
it  is  in  perfect  preservation,  and  was  evideully,  one  of  the  best 
houses  of  that  period,  in  this  part  of  the  country.  1  visited  it  in 
May,  1821,  and  with  the  aid  of  its  intelligent  occupant  Mr. 
B ,  found  no  difficulty  in  understanding  exactly,  the  inter- 
esting narrative  of  the  Baroness  Reidesel.  The  house  stands  a 
•bort  distance  from  the  road,  on  a  gentle  elevation,  directly  opposite 
tc  the  mouth  of  the  Battenkill,and  one  mile  north  of  the  Fishkill. 
\fter  the  circumstances  of  the  British  army  became  extreme,  this 
house,  as  it  was  stated  to  me,  was  at  least,  for  a  time,  the  head 
quarters  of  Gen'l.  Burgoyne.  I  am  not  informed  whether  be  still 
remained  there,  when  the  most  distinguished  ladies  of  the  army^ 
with  their  children,  and  some  wounded  officers,  sought  it  as  a  re- 
fuge  from  our  shot,  which  pervaded  every  other  part  of  the  British 
encampment. 

The  circumstances  related  in  the  text,  evince  that  it  was  but  a 
poor  refuge.  The  room  in  which  the  wounded  man  lay,  whose 
remaining  limb  was  taken  off  by  a  cannon  ball,  ii  in  the  north 
cast  angle  of  the  house,  and  it  will  be  evident,  on  casting  an  eye 
ncross  the  river,  that  the  cannon  which  did  the  mischief,  must  have 
^tood  on  a  small  eminence,  still  visible  on  the  eastern  bank.  The 
family  were  so  kind  as  to  permit  me  to  go  into  the  cellar,  and  it 
needs  but  a  glance  at  the  premises,  to  discern  the  exact  spot, 
where  the  baroness  Reidesel  and  her  children,  must  have  sought 
a  shelter  from  the  cannon  balls.  The  place  mu^t  have  been  in  the 
north  east  angle  of  the  cellar,  where  the  protection  would  he  most 
complete,  as  it  was  not  possible  that  the  shot  should  reHch  this 
plure,  although  they  might  pcuibltf  have  perforated^e  floor,  and 
struck  in  the  opposite  corner.  Thus  it  appears,  tmit  there  are 
thrte  very  memorable  houses  remaining,  viz  ;  this — tli.it  in  which 
Frazer  died,  and  that  in  the  American  camp  in  which  Sir  Frau* 
cis  Clark  expired. 

'i  he  old  church,  denoted  in  Gen'l.  Burgoyne*s  plans,  was  still 
standing  in  IB'^^l — Several  bullet  holes  were  visible  in  the  north 
nUe  of  it— St  stood  just  south  ofthe  Fishkill.    1824. 


4 


?r 


* 


■H 


'     1 

I 


f? 


) 


llGTOUn   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND   QUEBEC. 

but  wounded  and  women ;  we  were  at  last  obliged  tu 
resort  to  the  cellar  for  refuge,  and  in  one  corner  of 
this,  I  remained  the  whole  day,  my  children 
sleeping  on  the  earth,  with  their  heads  in  my  lap, 
and,  in  the  same  situation,  I  passed  a  sleepless 
night.  Eleven  cannon  balls  passed  through  the 
house,  and  we  could  distinctly  hear  them  roll  away. 
One  poor  soldier  who  was  lying  on  a  table,  for  the 
purpose  of  having  his  leg  amputated,  was  struck  by 
a  shot  which  carried  away  his  other;  his  comrades 
bad  left  him,  and  when  we  went  to  his  assistance, 
we  found  him  in  a  corner  of  the  room,  into  which 
be  had  crept,  more  dead  than  alive,  scarcely  breath- 
ing. My  reflections  on  the  danger  to  which  my 
husband  was  exposed,  now  agonized  me  exceeding- 
ly, and  the  thoughts  of  my  children,  and  the  ne- 
cessity of  struggling  for  their  preservation,  alone 
sustained  me."  A  horse  of  General  Reidesel  was 
in  constant  readiness  for  his  lady  to  mount,  in  case 
of  a  sudden  retreat,  and  three  wounded  English  of- 
ficers, who  lodged  in  the  same  house,  had  made  her 
a  solemn  promise,  that  they  would  each  of  them, 
take  one  of  her  children  upon  a  horse,  and  fly  with 
them,  when  such  a  measure  should  become  necessa- 
ry She  was  in  a  state  of  wretchedness  on  account 
of  her  husband,  who  was  in  constant  danger,  exposed 
all  day  to%e  shot,  and  never  entering  his  tent  to 
sleep,  but  notwithstanding  the  great  cold,  lying  down 
whole  nights  by  the  watch  fires.      "  In  this  horrid 


TOUR    BFiTWEEN    HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.    117 


situation,"  they  remained  six  days,  till  the  cessation 
of  hostilities,  which  ended  in  a  convention,  for  the 
surrender  of  the  army ;  the  treaty  was  signed  on 
the   sixteenth,  and  the  army  surrendered  the  next 

daV.*     '«':.•-'   <■■    *   '   ,f  -W}  .'r.  iU-r  -^  ^^f"  :-<> 

On  the  present  occasion,  I  did  not  visit  the  Brit- 
ish fortified  camp.f  When  I  was  here,  in  1797,  I 
examined  it  particularly.  It  was  then  in  perfect 
preservation,  (I  speak  of  the  encampment  of  the 
British  troops,  upon  the  hill,  near  the  Fishkill,)  the 
parapet  was  high,  and  covered  with  grass  and 
shrubs,  and  the  platforms  of  earth,  to  support  the 
field  pieces,  were  still  in  good  condition.  No  devas- 
tation, of  any  consequence  had  been  committed,  ex- 
cept by  the  credulous,  who  had  made  numerous  ex- 
cavations  in  the  breast  works,  and  various  parts  of 
the  encampment,  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
the  money,  which  the  officers  were  supposed   to 

*  Baroness  Rcidesers  Narrative,  in  Wilkinson's  Memoirs. 

tin  May  1821,1  again  visited  (his  fortified  camp,  and  found 
it  as  perfect  as  it  was  when  I  saw  it  nearly  twenty  three  years 
before,  and  almost  every  particular  f>tated  in  the  text  was  strictly 
applicable  to  it.  It  is  about  a  mile  from  the  river,  aud  was  cer- 
tainly chosen  with  great  good  judgment,  and  had  the  American 
army  attempte<I  to  take  it  by  storm, it  would  evidently  have  cost 
them  very  dear.  While  at  Ballston  Springs  during  the  late 
summer,  some  gentlemen  of  our  party  made  an  excursion 
to  this  place,  and  I,  learned  from  them  with  extreme  regret, 
that  the  plough  was  passing  over  the  fortified  camp  of  General 
Burgoyne,  and  that  its  fine  parapet  would  soon  be  levelled,  so  that 
scarcely  a  trace  of  it  would  remain. 

11 


y 


n 


■  a 


i 


118    TOUR    BETWBEN    HARTFORD    AND     ^UEBEO. 

haire  buried,  and  abandoned.  It  is  scarcely  neces- 
sary to  add,  that  they  never  found  any  money,  for 
private  property  was  made  sacred  by  the  conven- 
tion, and  even  the  public  military  chest  was  not 
disturbed  :  the  British  retained  every  shilling  that  it 
contained.  Under  such  circumstances,  to  have  bu- 
ried their  money,  would  have  been  almost  as  great 
a  folly,  as  the  subsequent  search  for  it.  This  infat- 
uation, has  not  however  gone  by,  even  to  this  hour, 
and  still,  every  year,  new  pits  are  excavated  by  the 
insatiable  money  diggers.* 


THE  FIELD  OF  SURRENDER, 


i       >J 


We  arrived  at  this  interesting  spot,  in  a  very  fine 
morning;  the  sun  shone  with  great  splendor,  upon 
the  flowing  Hudson,  and  upon  the  beautiful  heights, 
and  the  luxuriant  meadows,  now  smiling  in  rich  ver- 
dure, and  exhibiting  images  of  tranquillity  and  love- 
liness, very  opposite  to  the  horrors  of  war,  which 
were  once  witnessed  here. 

The  Fishkill,  swollen  by  abundant  rains,  (as  it 
was  on  the  morning  of  October  10th,  1777,  when 
General  Burgoyne  pafised  it  with  his  artillery,)  now 

*  Thid  appoftrs  to  be  a  very  coDimoD  popular  delusion  ;  in  muny 
places  on  the  Hudson,  and  about  the  lakes,  where  arnaios  lia.l 
lain,  or  moved,  we  found  money-pit:*  dug ;  and  in  one  place, 
they  told  us,  that  a  man  bought  of  a  poor  widow,  ''«  right  of  dig- 
ging in  her  groaud  for  the  hidden  treasure.  ' 


.^. 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    119 

poured  a  turbid  torrent  along  its  narrow  channel, 
and  roaring  down  the  declivity  of  the  hills,  hasten- 
ed to  mingle  its  waters  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 
It  was  upon  the  banks  of  the  Fishkill,  that  the 
British  army  surrendered.  We  passed  the  ground, 
where  stood  the  tent  of  General  Gates,  and  where 
he  received  General  Burgoyne,  and  the  principal 
officers  of  his  army.  General  Wilkinson's  account 
of  this  interview  is  interesting  :  "  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  17th,  I  visited  General  Burgoyne  in  his 
camp,  and  accompanied  him  to  the  ground,  where 
his  army  was  to  lay  down  their  arms,  from  whence 
we  rode  to  the  Bank  of  the  Hudson  river,  which 
he  surveyed  with  attention,  and  asked  me  whether 
it  was  not  fordable.  '  Certainly,  Sir ;  but  do  you 
observe  the  people  on  the  opposite  shore  f '  *  Yes, 
(replied  he,)  I  have  seen  them  too  long.'  He  then 
proposed  to  be  introduced  to  General  Gates,  and 
we  crossed  the  Fishkill,  and  proceeded  to  head 
quarters,  General  Burgoyne  in  front,  with  his  adju- 
tant General  Kingston,  and  his  aids  de  camp  Cap- 
tain lord  Petersham,  and  Lieutenant  Wilford  behind 
him ;  then  followed  Major  General  Phillips,  the 
Baron  Reidesel,  and  the  other  General  officers,  and 
their  suites,  according  to  rank.  General  Gates,  ad- 
vised of  Burgoyne's  approach,  met  him  at  the  head 
of  his  camp,  Burgoyne  in  a  rich  royal  uniform,  and 
Gates  in  a  plain  blue  frock ;  when  they  had  ap- 
proached nearly  within  swords'  length,  they  reined 
up,  and  halted,  I  then  named  the  gentlemen,  and 


N 


/I 


m 


V  f 


120    TOUR    BETWEEN    UAIITFORD    AND  QUEBEC. 


i)  '^ 


I      ' 


General  Burgoyne,  raising  his  bat  most  gracefully, 
said  *  The  fortune  of  war,  General  Gates,  has  mad« 
me  your  prisoner  ;*  to  which  the  conqueror,  return- 
ing a  courtly  salute,  promptly  replied,  '  I  shall  al- 
ways be  ready  to  bear  testimony,  that  it  has  not 
been  through  any  fault  of  your  excellency.'  Major 
General  Phillips  then  advanced,  and  he,  and  Gene- 
ral Gates  saluted,  and  shook  hands  with  the  famili- 
arity of  old  acquaintances.  The  Baron  Reide- 
sel,  and  the  other  officers,  were  introduced  in  t^eir 
turn." 

We  passed  the  ruins  of  General  Schuyler's  house, 
which  are  still  conspicuous,  and  hastened  to  the  field 
where  the  British  troops  grounded  their  arms.  Al- 
though, in  1797,  I  paced  it  over  with  juvenile  en- 
thusiasm,* I  felt  scarcely  less  interested  on  the 
present  occasion,  and  again  walked  over  the  whole 
tract.  It  is  a  beautiful  meadow,  situated  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  Fishkill,  with  the  Hudson,  and  north 
of  the  former.  There  is  nothing  now  to  distinguish 
the  spot,  except  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Hardy,  built 
during  the  French  wars,  and  the  deeply  interesting 
historical  associations  which  will  cause  this  place  to 
be  memorable  to  the  latest  generation.  Thousands 
and  thousands  yet  unborn,  will  visit  Saratoga,  with 
feelings  of  the  deepest  interest,  and  it  will  not  be 
forgotten  till  Thermopylae,  and  Marathon,  and  Ban- 
nockburn  and  Waterloo,  shall  cease  to  be  remem- 

♦  In  company  with  the  Uoa.  John  Elliott,  now  a  Senator  from 
Georgia,  and  John  VVynn,  £»<!.  from  the  yAtue  state. 


ts 


TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC.    121 

bered.  There  it  will  be  said,  were  the  last  en- 
trenchments of  a  proud  invading  army ;  on  that  spot 
stood  their  formidable  park  of  artillery — and  here, 
on  this  now  peaceful  meadow,  they  piled  their  arms ! 
their  arms  no  longer  terrible,  but  now  converted 
into  a  glorious  trophy  of  victory  ! 


1» 
1 


> 


REFLECTIONS  AND  REMARKS. 

I  have  adverted  but  little  to  the  sufferings  of  the 
American  army,  because  but  little,  comparatively,  is 
known  of  what  they  individually  endured.  Except- 
ing the  inevitable  casualties  of  battle,  they  must  have 
suffered  much  less  than  their  enemies;  for  they  soon 
ceased  to  be  the  flying,  and  became  the  attacking 
and  triumphant  party.  Colonels  Colburn,  Adams, 
Francis  and  many  other  brave  officers  and  men, 
gave  up  their  lives,  as  the  price  of  their  country's 
liberty,  and  very  many  carried  away  with  them  the 
scars  produced  by  honourable  wounds.  The  brave- 
ry of  the  American  army  was  fully  acknowledged  by 
their  adversaries.  -  ^       ■ 

"At  all  times,"  said  Lord  Balcarras,  *'when  I 
was  opposed  to  the  rebels,  they  fought  with  great 
courage  and  obstinacy."  "  We  were  taught  by  ex- 
perience, that  neither  their  attacks  nor  resistance 
was  to  be  despised."  Speaking  of  the  retreat  of  the 
Americans,  from  Ticonderoga,  and  of  their  behav- 
iour at  the  battle  of  Hubberton,Lord  Balcarras  addss : 


\ 
1 

r 


* 


'  w 


y 


V 


m 


J     '■  h 


122    TOUR    BLTWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  iH  EHEC. 

"  Circumstanced  as  the  enemy  were,  as  an  army 
very  hard  pressed,  in  their  reirer.t,  lliry  certainly  h»;- 
haved  with  great  gallantry  ;"  of  the  attack  on  the 
lines,  on  the  evening  of  the  7th  of  October,  he  says  : 
"The  lines  were  attacked,  and  with  as  much  fury  as 
the  fire  of  small  arms  can  admit."  ^^  ''  '• 

Lord  Balcarras  had  said,  that  he  never  knew  the 
Americans  to  defend  their  entrenchments,  but   ad- 
ded :  "The  reason  why  they  did  not  defend  their  en- 
trenchments  was,  that  they  always  marched   out  of 
them    and   attacked  us."     Captain  Money,   in  an- 
swer to  the  question,  whether  on  the/1 9th  of  Sep- 
tember, the  Americans  disputed  the''  field  with  ob- 
stinacy,   answered,  "they   did,  an'd    the   fire    was 
much  hotter  than  I  ever  knew  it  any  where,  except 
at  (he  cnfiair  of  Fort  Anne,"  and  speaking  of  the  bat- 
tle of  October  7ih,  and   of  the   moment  when  the 
Americans,   with    nothing     but   small   arms,    were 
marching  up    to  the   British  artillery,  he  adds  :  "  1 
was  very  much    astonished,  to   hear  the  shot  from 
the  enemy,   fly  so  thick,  after  our  cannonade  had 
lasted  a  quarter  of  an  hour."     General  Burgoyne 
gives  it  as  his  opinion,   that   as    rangers,  "  perhaps 
there  are  few  better  in  the  world,  than  the  corps  of 
Virginia  riflemen  which  acted  under  Colonel   Mor- 
gan.'' He  says,  speaking  of  the  battle  of  September 
19th,  that,  "few  actions  have  been  characterised  by 
more  obstinacy,  in  attack  or  defence.     The  British 
bayonet  was  repeatedly  tried  inefToclually ." 


*! 


I    ( 


i 


%: 


EHEC. 

an  army 
rtainly  b».'- 
ck  on  tlje 
[•jhe  says  : 
ich  fury  as 
A  <;■'£.' 

knew  the 
but  ad- 
d  their  en- 
ed  out  of 
iy,  in  an- 
1  of  Sep- 

vviih  ob- 

fire  was 
e,  except 
)f  the  bci- 
when  tho 
ms,  were 
adds  :  "  I 
shot  from 
made  had 
Burgoyne 
'  perhaps 

corps  of 
nel  Mor- 
eptembcr 
terised  by 
e  British 


TOL'R    BKTWEEN'    HARTFORD  AN'D    QULBE'  .        -J 

Remarking  upon  the  battle  of  the  7il)  of  OcloL^  r, 
he  observes  :  "If  there  he  any  persons  who  con- 
tinue to  doubt  that  the  Americans  possess  the  q'ud' 
lly  and  facullj  of  fighting,  call  it  by  whatever  term 
they  please,  they  are  of  a  prejudice,  that  it  would 
be  very  absurd  longer  to  contend  with  ;"  he  says, 
that  in  this  action  the  British  troops  "retreated  hard 
pressed,  but  in  good  order,''  and  that  "the  troops 
had  scarcely  entered  the  camp,  when  it  was  storm- 
ed with  great  fury,  the  enemy  rushing  to  the 
lines,  under  a   severe  fire  of  grape  shot  and   small 


arms 


J) 


In  a  private  letter,  addressed  to  Lord  George 
Germain,  after  the  surrender,  he  says,  "  I  should 
now  hold  myself  unjustihable,  if  I  did  not  confide 
to  your  liordship,  my  opinion,  upon  a  near  inspec- 
tion of  the  rebel  troops.  The  standing  corps  thtt 
I  have  seen,  are  disciplined.  I  do  not  hazard  the 
terra,  but  apply  it  to  the  great  fundamental  points 
of  military  institution,  sobriety,  subordination,  regu- 
larity and  courage."  * 

It  is  very  gratifying  to  every  real  American  to 
find,  that  for  so  great  a  prize,  his  countrymen,  (their 
enemies  themselves  being  judges,)  .contended  so 
nobly,  and  that  their  conduct  for  bravery,  skill  and 
humanity,  will  stand  the  scrutiny  of  all  future  ages. 

From  the  enemy  it  becomes  us  not  to  withhold 
the  commendation  that  is  justly  due;  all  that  skill 
and  valour  could  effect,  they  accomplished,  and 
they  were  overwhelmed  at  last  by  complicated  dis- 


k. 


li  I 


\ 


i 


r 


.  .  J^*  ■ ../-  - 


124    TOUR    BBTWEEW    HARTFORD  AIfI>    QUEBEC. 


.'       r 


-?'*  \    I, 


I  Vi 


2 


'If  J  ;y 


I 


'm 


tresses,  and  by  very  superior  numbers,  amounting 
at  the  time  of  the  surrender,  probably,  to  three  for 
one,  although  the  disparity  was  much  less,  in  the 
two  great  battles. 

The  vaunting  proclamation  of  General  Burgoyne, 
at  the  commencement  of  the  campaign ;  some  of 
his  boasting  letters,  written  during  the  progress  of 
it,  and  his  devastation  of  private  property  reflect  no 
honour  on  his  memory.  But,  in  general,  he  ap- 
pears to  have  been  a  humane  and  honourable  man, 
a  scholar  and  a  gentleman,  a  brave  soldier  and  an 
able  commander.  Some  of  his  sentiments  have  a 
higher  moral  tone  than  is  common  with  men  of  his 
profession,  and  have  probably  procured  for  him 
more  respect,  than  all  his  battles.  Speaking  of  the 
battle  of  the  7th,  he  says,  '*In  the  course  of  the  ac- 
tion, a  shot  had  passed  through  my  hat,  and  anoth- 
er had  torn  my  waistcoat.  I  should  be  sorry  to  be 
thought,  at  any  time,  insensible  to  the  protecting 
hand  of  Providence  ;  but  1  ever,  more  particularly 
considered  (and  I  hope  not  superstitiously)  a  sol- 
dier's hair  breadth  escapes  as  incentives  to  duty,  a 
marked  renewal  of  the  trust  of  being,  for  the  pur- 
poses of  a  public  station  :  and  under  that  reflection, 
to  lose  our  fortitude,  by  giving  way  to  our  affec- 
tions ;  to  be  divested  by  any  possible  self-emotion 
from  meeting  a  present  exigency,  with  our  best  fac- 
ulties, were  at  once  dishonour  and  impiety.'* 

Thus   have  I   adverted,  I   hope    not  with  too 
much  particularity,  to    some  of   the  leading  cir- 


N 


^^ 


B£C. 

mounting 
three  for 
s,  in  the 

urgoyne, 
some  of 
5gres3  of 
eflect  no 

he  ap- 
Lble  man, 
r  and  an 
s  have  a 
en  of  his 

for  him 
ig  of the 
if  the  ac- 
d  anoth- 
ry  to  be 
rotectiog 
licularly 
0  a  sol- 
>  duty,  a 
he  pur- 
tflection, 
r   affec- 
emotion 
)est  fac- 

i^ith  too 


ing  cir- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    Q,UEBEC.    125 

cumstances  of  the  greatest  military  event  which  has 
over  occurred  in  America ;  but  compared  with  the 
whole  extent  and  diversity  of  that  campaign,  the 
above  notices,  however  extended,  are  few  and  brief. 
\  confess,  I  have  reviewed  them  with  a  very  deep 
interest,  and  have  been  willing  to  hear  some  of  the 
distinguished  actors  speak  in  their  own  language.— 
Should  the  notice  of  these  great  events  tend,  in  any 
instance,  to  quench  the  odious  fires  of  party,  and  to 
rekindle  those  of  genuine  patriotism — should  it  re- 
vive in  any  one,  a  veneration  for  the  virtues  of 
those  men  who  faced  death,  in  every  form,  regard- 
less of  their  own  lives,  and  bent  only  on  securing  to 
posterity,  the  precious  blessings,  which  we  now  en- 
joy ;  and  above  all,  should  we  thus  be  led  to  cher- 
ish a  higher  sense  of  gratitude  to  heaven,  for  our  un- 
exampled privileges,  and  to  use  them  more  temper- 
ately and  wisely,  the  time  occupied  in  this  sketch, 
will  not  have  been  spent  in  vain.  History  pre- 
sents  no  struggle  for  liberty  which  has  in  it  more 
of  the  moral  sublime  than  that  of  the  American  re- 
volution. It  has  been,  of  late  years,  too  much 
forgotten,  in  the  sharp  contentions  of  party,  and 
he  who  endeavours  to  withdraw  the  public  mind 
from  those  debasing  conflicts,  and  to  fix  it  on  the 
grandeur  of  that  great  epoch — which,  magnificent 
in  itself,  begins  now,  to  wear  the  solemn  livery  of  an," 
tiqiiity,  as  it  is  viewed  through  the  deepening  twilight 
of  half  a  century,  certainly  performs  a  meritori- 
ous service,  and  can  scarcely  need  a  justification. 


\ 


%- 


rt 


r- 


^^ 


h 


126    TOUR  IiE'f^VEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (^UKIJEC. 

The  generation  that  sustained  the  coRflict,  is  now  al- 
most passed  away ;  a  few  hoary  heads  remain, 
seamed  with  honourable  scars — a  few  experienced 
guides  can  still  attend  us  to  the  fields  of  carnage,  and 
point  out  the  places  where  they  and  their  compan- 
ions fought  and  bled,  and  where  sleep  the  bones  of 
the  slain.  But  these  men  will  soon  be  gone  ;  tradi- 
tion and  history,  will,  however,  continue  to  recite 
their  deeds,  and  the  latest  generations  will  be  taught 
to  venerate  the  defenders  of  our  liberties — to  visit 
the  battle-grounds,  which  were  moistened  with  their 
blood,  and  to  thank  the  mighty  God  of  battles,  that 
the  arduous  conflict,  terminated  in  the  entire  estab- 
lishment of  the  liberties  of  this  country. 


STILLWATER  TO  SANDY  HILL. 

This  ride  of  twenty-two  miles  we  took  before  din- 
ner. After  viewing  the  field  of  surrender,  which  is 
seven  miles  above  Stillwater,  and  thirty-two  above 
Albany,we  passed  on  two  miles  farther,  to  the  bridge, 
at  Fort  Miller,  where  we  crossed  to  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Hudson. 

On  coming  near  the  head  waters  of  this  river,  we 
begin  to  tread  on  ground  famous,  not  only  in  the 
war  of  the  revolution,  but,  in  those  numerous  and 
bloody  campaigns,  of  a  still  earlier  date,  in  which 
the  French  and  the  savages  carried  fire  and  slaugh- 
ter, into  the  vast  frontier  of  the  northern  English 


!i:eo. 

is  now  al- 

remain, 

:perienc€d 

nage,  and 

compan- 

bones  of 

le ;  tradi- 

to  recite 

be  taught 

—to  visit 

ivith  their 

ttles,  that 

ire  estab- 


ifore  din- 
which  is 
ro  above 
le  bridge, 
Item  side 

river,  we 
ly  in  the 
ous  and 
in  which 
I  slaugh- 
En^lish 


TOUR    BETWEEN  HARTFCRD    AND    i^VEBEG.     127 

Colonies.     The  contests  then  sustained,  were  dis- 
tinguished by  immense  sacrifices,  efforts  and  sufTer- 
ings  on  the  part  of  the  English  Colonies  ;  sacrifices, 
efforts  and  sufferings,  which,  notwithstanding  the 
great  aids,  occasionally  received  from  the  mother 
country,  scarcely  admitted,  for  a   long  course  of 
years,  of  any  serious  and  permanent  intermission. 
Fort  Miller  was  one  of  the  posts  established  in  those 
wars,  and  formed  a  link  in  the  chain,  which  con- 
nected the  upper  waters  of  the  Hudson  with  those 
of  the  lakes  George  and  Champlain,  and  of  course, 
with  Canada.     Fort  Miller,  is  completely  levelled, 
and  I  know  not  of  any  particular  event,  of  signal 
importance,  connected  with  its  history,  except  that 
here,  or  a  little   way  below,  General    Burgoyne, 
when  proceeding  to  Stillwater,  on  the  13th  and  14th 
of  September,  1777,  passed  most  of  his  army  over 
the  Hudson. 

From  this  place  we  pursued  our  journey,  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  to  Fort  Edward,  and  San- 
dy Hill. 

In  the  whole  distance,  from  Albany  to  the  latter 
place,  (nearly  fifty  miles,)  there  is,  on  the  immc 
diate  border  of  the  river,  scarcely  a  hill,  even  of 
moderate  elevation,  and  the  scenery  is  extremely 
similar  to   that  which  I  hare  already  described. 

The  river,  sprinkled  with  islands,  flows  through 
beautiful  meadows,  and  appears,  in  many  places, 
smooth  and  glassy  as  a  mirror,  and  its  motion  is 
scarcely  perceptible,  either   to   sight  or  hearing  ; 


t 


*. 


\i 


1*1 


P     !  J 


128   TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFOHD  AND  HUEJJEC. 


I..  I 


again,  it  is  agitated,  and  with  ripples  and  waves,  h 
urged  over  a  shallow  and  rocky  bottom,  or,  dashes 
rapidly,  down  a  more  sudden  and  more  rocky  de- 
clivity ;  but,  in  every  variety  of  surface,  it  forms  al- 
ways, a  pleasing  and  interesting  object. 


t1 


I       /■: 


u  ^ 


\i    I) 


\» 


GEOLOGY.      ' 

It  was  not  in  my  power,  to  make  many  very  pre* 
eise  observations  on  the  nature  of  the  hills,  by  which 
the  meadows  are  bounded.  On  Bemus'  heights, 
the  soil  and  forest  hid  almost  every  rock  from 
view  ;  the  solitary  projections  were,  however,  gen- 
erally slaty,  like  the  rocks  along  the  river,  which, 
with  very  few  exceptions,  were  slate — of  the  trans- 
ition class,  (as  I  suppose  ;)  the  direction  of  the  stra- 
ta was,  more  generally,  like  that  of  the  other  great 
rock  formations  of  the  north  :  that  is,  somewhat  to 
the  east  of  north,  and  to  the  west  of  south  ;  their  dip 
appeared  extremely  variable,  but  T  believe  they 
were  never  flat,  nor  vertical,  and  the  structure  of  the 
strata  was  often,  extremely  confused  and  tortuous.* 

*  The  obaervatiuns  of  Prof.  Amos  Eaton,  (Index  to  the  Geology 
of  the  Northern  Sttttes,  second  edition,)  of  Dr.  William  Meade, 
(Experimentnl  Enquiry,  Sic.)  and  of  Dr.  John  H.  Steel,  (Analysis 
of  the  Mineral  waters  of  Sar<ito*a,  ico.)  may  be  advantageously 
consulted  as  to  the  geology  of  the  regions  bordering  on  the  upper 
waters  of  the  HucUon. 


■w 


TOUR    BETWEEN    llAPTFORD  AND    (ITJEBEC.    129 

FORT  EDWARD.       ^ 

At  this  Fort,  we  first  observed  the  canal,  which 
is  destined  to  connect  the  head  waters  of  Lake 
Champlain  with  those  of  the  Hudson.  It  is  now  on 
the  point  of  being  united  with  this  river,  and  they 
are  constructing  the  walls  of  the  Canal  of  a  very 
handsome  hewn  stone  :  it  is  obtained,  as  I  am  in- 
formed, near  Fort  Anne,  and  presents  to  the  eye, 
aided  by  a  magnifier,  very  minute  plates  and  veins, 
which  feebly  cfTervesce  with  acids,  and  appear  to 
enclose  an  extremely  fine,  black  mineral,  resem- 
bling hornblende  ;  the  stone  is  impressed  by  steel, 
and  feebly  fires  with  it ;  is  it  a  peculiar  kind  of  cal- 
careous sand  stone  f  It  is  of  a  dark  hue,  and  is 
shaped  into  handsome  blocks,  by  the  tools  of  the 
workmen.  I  was  gratified  to  see  such  firm  and 
massy  walls  constructed  of  this  stone  ;  indeed,  in 
point  of  solidity  and  beauty,  they  would  do  honour 
to  the  modern  wet  docks  of  Great  Britain. 

It  is  intended  to  have  a  lock  at  this  place,  where 
there  is  a  considerable  descent  into  the  Hudson. 

There  is  a  village  at  Fort  Edward,  bearing  the 
same  name,  and  I  ought  to  have  remarked  that  there 
are  villages,  at  Stillwater,  Saratoga  and  Fort  Mil- 
ler ;  but  there  is  nothing  particularly  interesting  in 
any  of  them.  Fort  Edward,  however,  is  memora- 
ble, on  account  of  its  former  importance  ;  It  is  situa- 
ted near  the  great  bend  of  the  Hudson,  and  form- 
ed  the  immediate  connexion   with  Lake  George, 

J2 


.^' 


\  ' 


130    TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  <^UEB£C. 

which  is  sixteen  miles,  and  with  Lake  Champlain, 
which  is  twenty-two  miles  distant.  It  was  origin- 
ally only  an  entrenched  camp,  and  was  constructed 
by  General  Lyman ;  but  as  its  situation  was  im« 
portant,  it  was  soon  converted  into  a  regular  Fort. 
Its  walls,  built  of  earth,  were  raised  thirty  feet  high, 
with  ditches  corresponding  in  depth  and  width,  and 
it  was  defended  by  cannon.  It  stands  on  the  brink 
of  the  Hudson,  and  the  embankment  was  continued 
along  the  river. 

The  walls  appear  to  be,  in  some  places,  still 
twenty  feet  high,  notwithstanding  what  time  and 
the  plough  have  done  to  reduce  them  ;  for  the  in- 
ttrior  of  the  Fort,  and  the  parapet  are  now  in  some 
places,  planted  with  potatoes. 

I  know  not  that  this  Fort  was  ever  beseiged  or 
stormed,  although  it  was  often  threatened.  In  the 
last  French  war,  it  was  an  important  station,  and  in 
General  Burgoyne's  campaign,  it  formed  the  medi- 
um of  communication  with  Lake  George,  whence 
the  provisions  were  brought  forward  for  the  use  of 
the  British  army,  which  was  detained  on  this  ac- 
count, at  and  near  Fort  Edward,  for  six  weeks,  by 
which  means,  they  lost  the  best  part  of  the  season 
for  military  operations — as  they  moved  down  the 
river,  they  relinquished  the  connexion  witli  Fort 
Edward  and  Lake  George,  and  were  never  able  to 
recover  it. 


i 


II. 


implain, 
origiti- 
structed 
vas  im- 
ir  Fort. 
tet  high, 
cith,  and 
he  brink 
ontinued 

ces,  stiil 

ime  and 

r  the  in- 

in  some 

seiged  or 

In  the 

I,  and  in 

ye  medi- 

whence 

le  use  of 

I  this  ac- 

eeks.  by 

season 

]own  the 

itli  Fort 

able  to 


i 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFOIIO    AND  (QUEBEC*    131 

MURDER  OF  MISS  McCREA. 

The  Story  of  this  unfortunate  young  lady  is  well 
known,  nor  should  I  mention  it  now,  but  for  the  fact, 
that  the  place  of  her  murder  was  pointed  out  to  us, 
near  Fort  Edward. 

We  saw,  and  conversed  with  a  person,  who  was 
acquainted  with  her,  and  with  her  family  ;  they  re- 
sided in  the  village  of  Fort  Edward. 

It  seems  she  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones,  an 
American  refugee,  who  was  with  Burgoyne's  army, 
and  being  anxious  to  obtain  possession  of  his  expect- 
ed bride,  he  dispatched  a  party  of  Indians  tojsscort 
her  to  the  British  army.  Where  were  his  affection 
and  bis  gallantry,  that  he  did  not  go  himself,  or  at 
least  that  he  did  not  accompany  his  savage  emissa- 
ries! 

Sorely  against  the  wishes  and  remonstrances  of 
her  friends,  she  committed  herself  to  the  care  of 
these  fiends  ; — strange  infatuation  in  her  lover,  to 
solicit  such  a  confidence — stranger  presumption  in 
her,  to  yield  to  his  wishes ;  what  treatment  had  she 
not  a  right  to  expect  from  such  guardians  ! 

The  party  set  forward,  and  she  on  horseback ; 
they  had  proceeded,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  from 
Fort  Edward,  when  they  arrived  dt  a  spring,  and 
halted  to  drink.  The  impatient  lover  had,  in  the 
mean  time,  dispatched  a  second  party  of  Indians, 
on  the  same  errand  ;  they  came,  at  the  unfortunate 


^  h- 


'Sl 


H 


\  n 


■■■  '\^ 


»  ; 


i\  \ 


132  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

moment,  to  the  same  spring,  and  a  collision  imme- 
diately ensued,  as  to  the  promised  reward.^ 

Both  parties  were  now  attacked,  by  the  whites, 
and  at  the  end  of  the  conflict,  the  unhappy  young 
woman  was  found  tomahawked,  scalped  and  (as  is 
said)  tied  fast  to  a  pine  tree  just  by  the  spring. 
Tradition  reports,  that  the  Indians  divided  the  scalp, 
and  that  each  party  carried  half  of  it  to  the  agonized 
lover. 

This  beautiful  spring,  which  still  flows  limpid 
and  cool,  from  a  bank  near  the  road  side,  and  this 
fatal  tree  we  saw.  The  tree,  which  is  a  large  and 
ancient  pine,  ''fit  for  the  mast  of  some  tall  ammiraP' 
is  wounded,  in  many  places,  by  the  balls  of  the 
whites,  fired  at  the  Indians ;  they  have  been  dug  out 
as  far  as  they  could  be  reached,  but  others  still  re- 
main in  this  ancient  tree,  which  seems  a  striking  em- 
blem, of  wounded  innocence,  and  the  trunk,  twist- 
ed off  at  a  considerable  elevation,  by  some  violent 
wind,  that  has  left  only  a  few  mutilated  branches,  is 
a  happy,  although  painful  memorial  of  the  fate  of 
JaneMcCrea.f 

Her  name  is  inscribed  on  the  tree,  with  the  date 
1777,  and  no  traveller  passes  this  spot,  without  spend- 

•  Which  is  said  to  have  been  a  barrel  of  rum. 

t  General  Hoyt  of  DeerfielJ,  informs  me,  that  the  received  ac- 
counts of  the  circumstances  attending  the  murder  of  Miss  MnCrea 
are  in  some  particulars  incorrect  ;  he  states,  that  he  has  ascer- 
tained that  she  was  not  murdered  at  this  spring,  'but  in  the  road, 
at  a  little  distance  from  it,  and  that  she  was  on  foot. 


I 


EBEC. 


fOUtt    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND   qiTEnEC.    133 


i^" .  n 


on  imme- 

le  whites, 
py  young 
and  (as  is 
he  spring. 
1  the  scalp, 
e  agonized 

iws  limpid 
e,  and  this 
large  and 
1  ammiraP' 
alls  of  the 
len  dug  out 
ers  still  re- 
triking  em- 
unk,  twist- 
>me  violent 
ranches,  is 
he  fate  of 

h  the  date 
loutspend- 


e  received  ac- 

MiB9  MoCrea 

he  has  ascer- 

it  in  the  roail, 


ing  a  plaintive  moment  in  contemplating  the  untime- 
ly fate  of  youth  and  loveliness.  * 

The  murder  of  Miss  M cCrea,  (a  deed  of  such 
atrocity  and  cruelty  as  scarcely  to  admit  of  aggrava- 
tion,) occurring  as  it  did,  at  the  moment  when  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  whose  army  was  then  at  Fort 
Anne,  was  bringing  with  him  to  the  invasion  of  the 
American  States,  hordes  of  savages,  **  those  hell- 
hounds of  war,"*^  whose  known  and  established 
mode  of  warfare,  were  those  of  promiscuous  massa- 
cre,f  electrified  the  whole  co.itinent,  and  indeed, 
the  civilized  world,  producing  an  universal  burst  of 
horror  and  indignation.  General  Gates  did  not  fail 
to  profit  by  the  circumstance,  and  in  a  severe,  but 
loo  personal  remonstrance,  which  he  addressed  to 

*  Lord  Chatham. 

t  It  is  true  that  General  Burgoyne,  in  hi?  celebrated  speech  to 
the  Indians,  at  the  river  Boquet,  at  the  opening  of  the  campaign, 
(June  24, 1777,)  reprobated  such  proceedings,  and  bound  the  sav- 
ages, (whom  however  he  called  "brothers"  and  "friends,")  down 
to  European  rules  of  warfare  ;  but,  who  would  expect,  that  a  fine 
«peechand  a  few  rhetorical  flourishes,  even  if  sanctioned  by  re- 
wards and  punishments  in  prospect,  would  restrain  the  habitual,  ] 
had  almost  said,  the  innalt  ferocity  of  an  American  barbarian.  All 
that  hapt>ened,  might  therefore  have  been  anticipated,  and  had 
General  Burgoyne's  army  continued  to  be  suecessful,  the  savages, 
instead  of  deserting  him,  as  they  did,  in  (he  hour  "of  his  utmost 
need,"  would  h:\ve  spread  murder  and  desolation  every  where, 
m  spite  of  speeches,  rules  or  remonstrances. 

The  French,  the  English  and  the  Americans,  are  however,  all 
chargeable  with  a  common  guilt,  differing  only  in  degree,  in  em- 
ploying (he  savages,  in  the  various  wars  on  this  continent. 

12* 


V     fl 


.!i 


I'  i 


^'V.,^- 


•:.:jr 


134  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBECr 


I 


h-  >  f. 


h: 


!) 


General  Burgoync,  charged  him  with  the  guilt  of 
the  murder,  and  with  that  of  many  other  similar 
atrocities.  His  real  guilt,  or  that  of  his  government, 
was,  in  employing  the  savages  at  all  in  the  war;  in 
other  respects  he  appears  to  have  had  no  concern 
with  the  transaction ;  in  his  reply  to  General  Gates, 
he  thus  vindicates  himself:  "  In  regard  to  Miss 
McCrea,  her  fall  wanted  not  the  tragic  display  you 
have  labored  to  give  it,  to  make  it  as  sincerely  la- 
mented and  abhorred  by  me,  as  it  can  be  by  the 
tenderest  of  her  friends.  The  fact  was  no  premedi- 
tated barbarity.  On  the  contrary,  two  chiefs,  who 
had  brought  her  off,  for  the  purpose  of  security, 
not  of  violence  to  her  person,  disputed  which 
should  be  her  guard,  and  in  a  fit  of  savage  passion, 
in  one  from  whose  hands  she  was  snatched,  the  un- 
happy woman  became  the  victim.  Upon  the  first 
intelligence  of  this  event,  I  obliged  the  Indians  to 
deliver  the  murderer  into  my  hands,  and  though, 
to  have  punished  him  by  our  laws,  or  principles  of 
justice,  would  have  been  perhaps  unprecedented, 
he  certainly  should  have  suffered  an  ignominious 
death,  had  I  not  been  convinced  by  my  circumstan- 
ces and  observation,  beyond  the  possibility  of  a 
doubt,  that  a  pardon  under  the  terms  which  I  pre- 
sented, and  they  accepted,  would  be  more  effica- 
cious than  an  execution,  to  prevent  similar  mis- 
chiefs."* 

♦Feb. 7,  1824.— The  followiDg  letters,  which  have  recently 
appeared  in  the  public  prints,  are  worthy  of  beiD<;  preserved  in 
this  place ; — 


BEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  13c* 


e  guilt  of 
:r  similar 
rernment, 
e  war;  in 
)  concern 
ral  Gates, 

to  Miss 
splay  you 
cerely  la- 
be  by  the 
premedi- 
liefs,  who 

security, 
2d  which 
;e  passion, 
d,  the  un- 
n  the  first 
Indians  to 
id  though, 
inciples  of 
cedented, 
nominious 
rcumstan- 
)ility  of  a 
ich  I  pre- 
ore  effica- 
[nilar  mis- 


ave  recently 
preserved  in 


SANDY  HILL,  AND  THE  MASSACRE  THERE. 

Sandy  Hill*  "  is  delightfully  situated  just  above 
Baker's  Falls— it  contains  a  woollen  manufactory, 

From  the  Mohawk  (JV.  Y.)  Herald. 

MURDER  OF  MISS   McCREA. 

Florida,  Dec.  27,  1823. 

Dear  5ir— There  was  no  event  during  our  revolutionary  struggle 
with  Great  Britain,  that  excited  more  sympathy  than  the  tragical 
fate  of  Jane  McCrea.  The  time,  and  every  circumstance  attending 
that  transactioOfWas  peculiarly  fitted  to  harrow  up  the  minds  of  men 
to  resistance  and  revenge.  Wherever  the  story  was  told,  (and  it 
was  told  throughout  the  continent  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning,) 
every  bosom  was  thrilled  as  by  an  electric  shock,  and  beat  in  unison. 
Young  as  I  then  was,  the  horrors  of  the  scene  impressed  my  mind  so 
deeply,  that  forty-six  years  have  in  no  part  effaced  it.  But  the 
subsequent  writers  of  that  period  of  our  history  have  related  the 
story  very  differently,  and  some  have  spelled  her  name  errone- 
ously. 

In  order  to  correct  in  season  every  mistake,  I  lately  requested 
Colonel  M'cCrea,  of  Saratoga,  to  state  all  the  facts,  as  they  were 
known  and  believed  in  the  family.  This  gentleman  was  nephew 
to  Jane  McCrea,  and  is  distinguished  for  candor  and  probity ;  and 
is  perhaps  better  able  to  tell  the  story  than  any  other  living  wit- 
ness. The  following  is  an  extract  from  his  letter.  I  hope  you 
will  think  with  me  that  it  ought  to  be  preserved,  and  give  it  a 
place  in  the  Herald.  I  am,  &c. 

S.  Reynolds. 

Ballbton,  JvhY  1st,  1823. 
Sir — It  is  with  no  small  degree  of  diffidence  I  undertake  to 
''.ommit  to  paper  that  which  is  known  in  our  family  concerning 
the  late  Jane  McCrea;  and  in  yielding  to  this,  I  do  it  solely  with 
a  view  of  complying  with  yeur  request  of  transmitting  to  poster- 
ity something  more  of  her  history  than  ia  at  present  extant, 

*  Worcester's  Gazetteer. 


VA 


13G  TOUn   BETWEEN    HARTFORO   AND    q,llEBf:c. 


>il 


i 


f, 


{ 


,Sl  • 


^     'i 


a  court  house,  a  bank,  an  academy  for  young  ladies, 
and  about  eighty  houses."  This  pretty  and  flour- 
Miss  Jaae  McCrea,  who  was  killed  by  the  ladians  at  Fort  Ed- 
ward, in  July,  1777,  was  the  second  daug^hter  of  the  Key.  James 
McCrea,  formerly  pastor  of  a  congregation  in  Lamington,  New- 
Jersey,  but  died  previous  to  the  revolution.  His  eldest  son.  Col. 
John  McCrea,  had  become  a  resident  of  Albany  before  his  father^s 
death,  and  his  sister  Jane  directly  afterwards  repaired  to  his 
house,  and  resided  with  him.  In  the  year]  seventy-three,  they 
removed  to  that  part  of  this  county  now  known  by  the  name  of 
Northumberland,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson  river,  about 
three  miles  north  of  Fort  Miller  Falls,  and  he  was  here  when  his 
sister  was  killed.  This  was  on  Suaday  morning,  and  it  was  eve- 
ning before  he  received  the  fatal  newa.  Early  the  next  day,  he 
sent  his  family  to  Albany,  and  repaired  himself  to  the  American 
camp,  where  he  found  his  sister's  corpse,  shockingly  mangled.— 
Two  of  the  neighboring  women,  whom  he  had  brought  with  him, 
washed  and  dressed  her  remains,  and  he  had  her  interred  with 
one  Lieutenant  Van  Veehten,  three  miles  south  of  Fort  Edward. 
She  was  twenty-three  years  of  age,  of  an  amiable  and  virtuous 
character,  and  highly  esteemed  by  all  her  acquaintance.  She 
was  at  this  time  on  a  visit  to  a  family  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Fort  Edward.  A  Mrs.  McNeil  had  persuaded  her  to  remain  till 
the  Monday  following.  Here  she  was  concealed  in  the  cellar, 
when  the  Indians  arrived,  who,  tfter  ransacking  the  house,  dis- 
covered her  retreat,  and  drew  her  out  by  ths  hair,  and  placing 
her  on  a  horse,  proceeded  on  the  road  towards  Sandy  Hill.  They 
had  gone  but  a  short  distance,  when  they  met  another  party  of 
Indians,  returning  from  Argyle,  where  they  had  killed  the  family 
of  Mr.  Bains.  This  party  disapproved  of  taking  Miss  McCrea  to 
the  British  camp,  and  one  of  them  struck  her  with  a  tomahawk, 
and  tore  off  her  scalp. 

It  was  said,  and  generally  believed,  that  she  was  engaged  in 
marriage  to  Captain  David  Jones,  of  the  British  army.  Captain 
Jonea  survived  her  only  a  few  years,  and  died,  as  was  thought, 
with  grief.  I  am.  Sir,  your  most  obedient  servant,  Sec. 

James  McCrea. 
Dr.  S.  Retnolds. 


\=' 


:bec. 

ng  ladies, 
ind  floiir- 

at  Fort  Ed- 
Rev.  James 
igtoD,  New- 
est son,  Col. 
his  father's 
aired  to  his 
three,  they 
the  name  of 
•iver,  about 
re  when  his 
it  was  ere- 
ext  daj,  he 
e  American 
mangled.— 
It  with  him, 
terred  with 
)rt  Kdward. 
nu  virtuous 
tance.     She 
hborhood  of 
remain  till 
the  cellar, 
house,  dis- 
and  placing 
Hill.  They 
er  party  of 
the  family 
McCrea  to 
tomahawk, 

engaged  in 
.    Captain 
18  thought, 
ice. 
FcChea. 


TOUR    BETVTEKN    HARTFORD    AND    <IUEBEC.     137 

iiihing  village  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  composed  of 
neat  and  handsome  houses,  many  of  which  surround 
a  beautiful  central  green.  Its  population  is  from 
five  hundred  to  six  hundred.  The  village  of  Sandy 
Hill  is  of  recent  origin,  and  the  site  on  which  it 
stands  was  formerly  the  scene  of  Indian  barbari- 
ties. 

From  Mr.  H.  a  very  respectable  inhabitant,  I 
learned  the  following  singular  piece  of  history. 

Old  Mr.  Schoonhoven,  recently  living  in  this 
vicinity,  and  probably  still  surviving,  although  at 
the  great  age  of^more  than  four  score,  informed 
Mr.  H.  that  during  the  last  French  war,  he,  and 
six  or  seven  other  Americans  coming  through  the 
wilderness,  from  Fort  William  Henry,  at  the  head 
of  Lake  George,  to  Sandy  Hill,  bad  the  misfortune 
to  ^e  taken  prisoners  by  a  party  of  the  savages. 
They  were  conducted  to  the  spot  which  is  now  the 
central  green  of  Sandy  Hill,  and  ordered  to  sit 
down  in  a  row,  upon  a  log.  Mr.  Schoonhove* 
pointed  out  to  Mr.  H.  the  exact  place  where  the 
log  lay ;  it  was  nearly  in  front  of  the  house  where 
we  dined.  The  Indians  then  began,  very  deliber- 
ately, to  tomahawk  their  victims,  commencing  at 
one  end  of  the  log,  and  splitting  the  skulls  of  their 
prisoners,  in  regular  succession ;  while  the  survi- 
vors, compelled  to  sit  still,  and  to  witness  the  awful 
fate  of  their  companions,  awaited  their  own,  in  un- 
utterable horror.  Mr.  Schoonhoven  was  the  last 
but  one,  upon  the  end  of  the  log  opposite  to  where 


'  if 

fj' 

i   II 

m 

1 

m 

*^  fll 

^m  1 

>k 


!l' 


% 


•   ..^«t^»  -,  *» 


I 


'^ 


J, 


•■j»t0^-.  ^, 


W^ 

%[ 


M 


138    TOUR   BETWEEN    UARTFOUD    AND    ^17£BEC. 

the  massacre  commenced ;  the  work  of  death  had 
already  proceeded  to  him,  and  the  lifted  tomahawk 
Was  ready  to  descend,  when  a  chief  gave  a  signal  to 
stop  the  butchery.  Then  approaching  Mr.  Schoon- 
hoven,  he  mildly  said,  '*  do  you  not  remember  that 
(at  such  a  time)  when  your  young  men  were  danc- 
ing, poor  Indians  came,  and  wanted  to  dance  too ; 
your  young  men  said  "  no ! — Indians  shall  not  dance 
with  us;"  but  you  (for  it  seems,  this  chief  had  re- 
cognized his  features  only  in  the  critical  moment,) 
you  said,  Indians  shall  dance — now  1  will  show  you 
that  Indians  can  remember  kindness."  This  chance 
recollection  (providential ,  we  had  better  call  it,) 
saved  the  life  of  Mr.  Schoonhoven,  and  of  the 
other  survivor. 

Strange  mixture  of  gener6«lty  aq4  cruelty !  For 
a  triiiing  affront,  they  cherished  and  glutted  ven- 
geance, fell  as  that  of  infernals,  without  measure  of 
retribution,  or  discrimination  of  objects ;  for  a  favor 
equally  trifling,  they  manifested  magnanimity,  ex- 
ceeding all  correspondence  to  the  benefit,  and  ca- 
pable of  arresting  the  stroke  of  death,  even  when 
falling  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning  !* 

*  Considering  the  moral  and  intellectual  light  of  the  American 
savages,  we  may,  however,  well  ask  whether  this  act,  atrocious 
as  it  is,  manifests  more  that  is  abhorrent  to  every  humane — every 
just — every  moral— every  christian,  nay,  to  every  truly  honorahU 
feeling,  than  the  lamentable  practice  of  duelling,  that  dreadful  na- 
tional sin  of  this  country;  that  foul  stain  on  our  character  as  a 
moral  and  religious  people;  that  sin  which  aseertaim  no  man's 
courage,  but  demorutrably  proves  that  man's  cowardice,  who  dares 


SEC. 

!ath  had 
mahawk 
signal  to 
Schoon- 
iber  that 
re  danc* 
nee  too ; 
ot  dance 
'had  re- 
loment,) 
low  you 
i  chance 
call  it,) 
1  of  the 

|r !  For 
ted  ven- 
^asure  of 
r  a  favor 
ity,  ex- 
and  ca- 
sn  when 


American 
atrocious 
ne — every 
f  honorable. 
'eadful  na- 
acter  as  a 
no  man's 
wbodarea 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    13^ 
ADDITIONAL  REMARKS  ON  SANDY  HILL. 


Mr.    H- 


,   one   of  the  earliest  inhabitants 

of  Sandy  Hill,  canie  to  this  place  at  the  close 
of  the  war  of  the  Revolution,  and  erected  the 
first  framed  building.  At  that  time,  the  grounds 
now  occupied  as  a  public  green,  was  cover- 
ed by  a  grove  of  shrub  oaks.  Sandy  Hill  is  in  the 
town  of  Queensbury — but  is  an  incorporated  village, 
exhibiting  a  great  appearance  of  neatness  and  com- 
fort. It  is  said  to  be  very  healthy.  I  observed  the 
citizens  busied  in  sweeping  their  public  green  with 
brooms,  and  in  cleaning  their  streets — a  commend- 
able example  for  other  villages;  it  is  done  here  by  a 
kind  of  common  law. 

The  houses  are  situated  principally  on  the  main 
street,  but  there  are  some  scattered  buildings. 

There  was  no  house  for  public  worship  when  I 
was  there  last,  (in  May  1821  ;)  the  school-house 
was  used  for  this  purpose.  The  view  from  this 
building  is  said  to  be  very  fine. 

The  village  affords  good  accommodations  for  trav- 
ellers. Beard's  house  is  remarkable  for  neatness, 
order,  good  fare,  and  the  most  obliging  manners. 

not  encounter  the  opinions  of  fighting  men,  but  prefers  the  viola- 
tion of  the  most  sacred  laws  both  of  God  and  uAir ;  that  sin 
which  sends  to  a  premature  grene  those  who  have  defended  tht 
nation  by  their  valor,  and  honored  it  by  their  councils  and  their 
wisdom ;  that  sin,  for  whose  victims  thousands  of  American  hearts 
are  now  bleeding,  and  for  which  all  good  men  mourn,  and  angels 
weep!! 


M 


i 

( 

X 


MO  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


^''.l  * 


Baker^s  Falls,  contiguous  to  this  village,  wiU 
well  repay  the  traveller  for  a  short  walk.  He  will 
see  them  to  the  best  advantage  by  crossing  the 
bridge,  and  descending  in  the  direction  of  the 
stream,  till  he  is  one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  below  the  falls ;  the  best  station  is  near 
the  crystallizing  house  of  a  gunpowder  manufactory, 
which  is  established  here,  oh  the  high  bank  of  the 
river;  there  are  various  good  points  of  view  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  below.  The  entire  fall  is  seventy- 
eight  feet ;  but  it  takes  place  at  several  leaps,  and 
forms  a  succession  of  violent,  tumultuous  rapids, 
not  inferior  in  grandeur  to  Glen's  Falls,  and  supe- 
rior to  them  in  picturesque  effect;  these  falls  are 
really  quite  as  well  worth  visiting  as  the  more  cele> 
brated  cataract  a  few  miles  above. 

From  the  place  where  Baker's  Falls  are  seen  to 
the  best  advantage,  the  village  of  Sandy  Hill  forms 
a  fine  part  of  the  back  ground,  being  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance  of  half  a  mile,  on  the  high  opposite  bank. 

There  is  a  fine  rapid  above  the  falls,  and  below 
the  bridge.  The  water  of  the  river  is  turned  to 
good  account  by  a  mill-dam,  which  diverts  a  portion 
of  the  flood  into  artificial  channels  ;  thus  creating  a 
great  water  power  for  the  working  of  mills  on  both 
sides  of  the  river. 

The  transition  and  secondary  formations  are  said 
to  form  a  junction  at  this  place.  Slaty  rocks  com- 
pose the  banks  of  the  river,  and  are  seen  lying  be- 
neath the  water ;  and  where  the  latter  is  tranquil,  a 


•V---? 


->- — ■K^ 


:bec. 


TOTTR   between    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    HI 


if 


age,  wiU 
He  will 
ssing  the 
1  of  the 
idred  and 
m  is  near 
tufactory, 
ak  of  the 
lew  for  a 
!  seventy- 


saps, 


and 


IS  rapids, 
and  supe- 
;  falls  are 
lore  cele- 

re  seen  to 
lill  forms 
at  the  dis' 
bank, 
ind  below 
turned  to 
I  a  portion 
creating  a 
Is  on  both 

IS  are  said 
}cks  corn- 
lying  be- 
tranquil,  a 


handsome  picture  is  presented  by  the  veins  of  white 
calcareous  spar,  which  in  great  numbers,  intersect 
the  black  slate  rocks,  and  give  them  a  tesselated 
appearance,  rendered  more  brilliant  by  the  refrac- 
tive effect  of  the  water,  through  which  they  are 
seen.  The  rocks  on  the  shores  above  the  bridge, 
where  they  are  not  covered  by  water,  present  a  sim- 
ilar appearance.  The  frowning  precipices  which 
form  the  banks  of  the  river — the  mill-dams — the 
bridge,  and  the  steep  road,  by  which  it  is  approach- 
ed from  the  village — readily  suggest  to  an  observer, 
the  possibility  of  fatal  accidents.  It  seems  they 
have  been  of  too  frequent  occurrence.  Several 
persons  have  been  precipitated  over  the  falls,  en- 
countering instant  death.  Two  men  were  in  a  boat 
above  the  mill-dam,  and  venturing  a  little  too  far, 
were  drawn  irretrievably  into  the  rapid  waters;  as 
the  boat  passed  over  the  mill-dam,  one  of  the  men 
caught  upon  it,  and  stood  braced,  till  a  plank,  secu- 
red by  a  rope,  was  floated  down  to  him,  and  he  was 
thus  extricated  from  his  danger — but  his  companion 
went  over  the  dam,  and  was  lost.  Another  man  in 
a  boat  was  impelled  into  the  current,  and  finding  his 
case  hopeless,  calmly  shipped  his  oars,  and  submit- 
ted to  his  fate;  a  m»n  at  the  bridge,  about  three  years 
ago,  was  standing  upon  a  floating  timber,  and  in  the 
act  of  c'lUing  it,  when  it  suddenly  parted  and  let  him 
into  the  water,  which  soon  hurried  him  to  his  death  ; 
the  dead  bodies  were  found  down  at  Fort  Edward, 
a  few  miles  below.     A  man  in  a  dark  night  walked 

13 


15* 


':  \* 


n 


■  i  1 

m 


143   TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    ^UEBEt. 

ofTthe  high  bank  at  the  bridge,  on  the  eastern  side, 
and  fell  seventy-five  feet ;  and  a  Frenchman,  about 
the  same  time,  drove  a  waggon  and  horses  over 
this  precipice  ;  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that 
they  all  perished. 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE. 

This  interesting  region  lay  to  the  left  of  our  pro- 
posed route  to  Lake  Champlain;  to  visit  it  would 
demand  nearly  twenty  miles  of  additional  travelling, 
through  very  bad  roads;  Mr.  W.  was  already  famil- 
iar with  the  scene;  I  therefore  took  an  extra  con- 
veyance, with  which  1  was  furnished  at  Sandy  Hill, 
by  the  civility  of  Mr.  II.  who  did  me  the  favor  to 
accompany  me  on  the  excursion,  (for  there  was  no 
public  vehicle,)  and  leaving  Mr.  VV.  to  pursue  his 
journey  to  Fort  Anne,  where  I  agreed  to  meet  him, 
I  parted  with  him  four  miles  above  Sandy  Hill,  at 
Glenn's  Falls. 


GLENN'S  FALLS. 


We  stopped  for  a  f«w  moments  at  this  celebrated 
place.  It  is  not  possible  that  so  large  a  river  as  the 
Hudson  is,  even  here,  at  more  than  two  hundred 
miles  from  its  mouth,  should  be  precipitated  over 


\t 


\Et, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AVD  QUEBEC.  143 


ern  side, 

m, about 

ses  over 

say  that 


our  pro- 
it  would 
avelling, 
iy  famil- 
ctra  con- 
[jdy  Hill, 
favor  to 
2  was  no 
irsue  his 
eet  him, 
Hill,  at 


lebrateU 
cr  as  the 
hundred 
ted  over 


any  declivity,  however  moderate,  without  a  degree 
of  grandeur.  Even  the  various  rapids  which  we 
had  passed  above  Albany,  and  still  more,  the  faJls 
at  Fort  Miller  Bridge,  and  Baker's  Falls,  at  Sandy 
Hill,  had  powerfully  arrested  our  attention,  and 
prepared  us  for  the  magnificent  spectacle  now  be- 
fore us.  I  regretted  that  I  could  not,  more  at  leisure, 
investigate  the  geology  of  this  pass,  both  for  its  own 
sake,  and  for  its  connexion  with  this  fine  piece  of 
scenery. 

The  basis  of  the  country  here  is  a  black  lime- 
stone,* compact,  but  presenting  spots  that  are  crys- 
tallized, and  interspersed,  here  and  there,  with  the 
organized  remains  of  animals,  entombed,  in  ages 
pa?t,  >  (his  mausoleum.  The  strata  are  perfectly 
flat,  i '  <.,  \  i  piled  upon  one  another,  with  the  utmost 
regularity,  so  that  a  section,  perpendicular  to  the 
strata,  presents  almost  the  exact  arrangement  of 
hewn  stones  in  a  building.  Such  a  section  has  been 
made  by  the  Hudson,  through  these  calcareous 
strata ;  not  however  all  at  once  ;  a  number  of  lay- 
ers are  removed,  either  through  a  part  of  the  width 
of  the  river,  or  through  the  whole  of  it;  and,  a  few 
feet  further  down  the  stseam,  the  layers,  next 
below  are  removed;  and  thus,  by  stairs,  or  rather 

*  Satin  spar  it  found  in  thin,  delicate,  but  extensive  vcin^, 
principally  in  the  fallen  rocks  below  the  bridge ;  (generally  it  is 
of  a  brilliant  white,  but  sometimes  it  is  black,  Although  still  re- 
taining its  fibrous  structure.  Cryilah  of  Hittersjtuth^  well  defi- 
tted,  and  glistening  in  black  limestone,  occur  at  the  »amc  plncc. — 
The  s»tiD  »par  was  first  observed  by  Mr.  H,  K.  13.  Morse. 


r.^ 


144    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 


by  broad  platforms,  not  however  without  frequent 
irregularities,  and  deep  channels  cut  by  the  water 
in  the  direction  of  the  river,  the  way  is  prepared 
for  this  fine  cataract. 

Down  these  platforms,  and  through  these  chan- 
nels, the  Hudson,  when  the  river  is  full,  indignantly 
rushes,  in  one  broad  expanse  ;  now,  in  several  sub- 
ordinate rivers,  thundering  and  foaming  among  the 
black  rocks,  and  at  last  dashing  their  conflicting 
waters  into  one  tumultuous  raging  torrent,  white 
as  the  ridge  of  the  tempest  wave,  shrouded  with 
spray,  and  adorned  with  the  hues  of  the  rainbow. 
Such  is  the  view  from  the  bridge  immediately  at  the 
foot  of  the  falls,  and  it  is  finely  contrasted  with  the 
solemn  grandeur  of  the  sable  ledges  below,  which 
tower  to  a  great  height  above  the  stream. 

I  do  not  know  the  entire  fall  of  the  river  here> 
but  should  think,  judging  from  the  eye,  that  it  could 
not  be  less  than  fifty  feet,*  including  all  its  leaps, 
down  the  different  platforms  of  rock. 

Through  an  uninteresting  country,  partly  of  pine 
barren,  and  partly  of  stony  hills,  I  arrived  at  night- 
fall, at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  and  found  a  com- 
fortable inn,  in  the  village  of  Caldwell,  on  the  west- 
ern shore. 


prii 
nu( 
hill 
fori 
to  c 


!., 


*  This  estimate  beings  made  without  measurement,  and  as  I 
have  not  at  hand,  any  authority  un  the  subject  of  the  height  of 
these  fails,  I  wish  the  conjtcture  in  the  text  to  be  regarded  m  sucti- 
merely. 


BEC. 

frequent 
he  water 
prepared 

ise  chan- 
lignantly 
eral  sub- 
nong  the 
>nflicting 
it,  white 
led  with 
rainbow. 
Ij  at  the 
with  the 
Tf  which 

rer  here> 
it  could 
ts  leaps, 

of  pine 
it  night- 

a  com- 
le  west- 


antl  as  I 
height  of 
d  w  such- 


rOUU  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  145 

As  we  approached  Lake  George,  fragments  of 
primitive  rocks  began  to  appear,  and  I  observed 
numerous  loose  masses  of  granite,  on  the  steep  stony 
hills,  near  the  lake.  1  was  much  struck  with  the 
formidable  difficulties  which  General  Burgoyne  had 
to  encounter  in  transporting  his  stores,  and  his  boats, 
and  part  of  his  artillery,  over  this  rugged  country  i 
at  that  time,  without  doubt,  vastly  more  impractica^^ 
ble  than  at  present.  <.  -  ^ 


PROSPECT  PROM  THE  HEAD  OF  LAKE  GEORGE. 

Sept,  23.  — In  the  first  gray  of  the  morning,  I  was 
in  the  balcony  of  the  Inn,  admiring  the  fine  outline 
of  the  mountains  by  which  Lake  George  is  envi- 
roned, and  the  masses  of  pure  snowy  vapour,  which, 
unruffled  by  the  slightest  breeze,  slumbered  on  its 
crystal  bosom.  During  all  the  preceding  days  of 
the  tour,  there  had  not  been  a  clear  moniing,  but 
now,  not  a  cloud  spotted  the  expanse  of  the  hea- 
vens, and  the  sky  and  the  lake  conspired  to  exalt 
every  feature  of  this  unrivalled  landscape. 

The  morning  came  on  with  rapid  progress  ;  but 
the  woody  sides  of  the  high  mountains,  that  form 
the  eastern  barrier,  were  still  obscured,  by  the  lin- 
gering shadows  of  night,  although,  on  their  tops,  the 
dawn  was  now  fully  disclosed,  and  their  outline,  by 
contrast  with  their  dark  sides,  was  rendered  beau- 
tifully distinct;  while,  their  reversed  images,  per- 

13* 


•*^ 


i 


■i 


r-i 


I    i\ 


t|! 


.^' 


146  TOOR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


t^~ 


«#' 


if 


fectly  reflected  from  the  most  exquisite  of  all  mir- 
rors, presented  mountains  pendent  in  the  deep,  and 
adhering  by  their  bases,  to  those,  which  at  the  same 
moment  were  emulating  the  heavens. 

A  boat  had  been  engaged,  the  evening  before, 
and  we  now  rowed  out  upon  the  lake,  and  hastened 
to  old  Fort  George,  whose  circular  massy  walls  of 
stone,  still  twenty  feet  high,  and  in  pretty  good 
preservation,  rise  upon  a  hill  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake.  I  was 
anxious  to  enjoy,  from  this  propitious  spot,  the  ad- 
vancing glories  of  the  morning,  which,  by  the  time 
we  had  reached  our  station,  were  glowing  upon  the 
mountain  tops,  with  an  etfulgence,  that  could  be 
augmented  by  nothing  but  the  actual  appearance  of 
the  king  of  day. 

Now,  the  opposite  mountains— those  that  form 
the  western  barrier,  were  strongly  illuminated  down 
their  entire  declivity,  while  the  twin  barrier  of  the 
eastern  shore  (its  ridge  excepted)  was  still  in  deep 
shadow ;  the  vapour  on  the  lake,  which  was  just 
tiuflicient  to  form  the  softened  blending  of  light  and 
shade,  while  it  veiled  the  lake  only  in  spots,  and 
left  its  outline  and  most  of  its  surface  perfectly  dis- 
tinct, began  to  form  itself  into  winrows,*  and  clouds 

♦  This,  possibly,  is  an  American  word,  (meanin,';  the  rows  of 
hay,  that  are  raked  together  in  a  meadow,  before  the  hay  is 
thrown  into  heaps ;)  it  exactly  describes  the  vapour,  as  it  appear- 
ed,  in  some  places,  on  the  lake,  and  1  knew  no  other  word  that 
did. 


I 


w 


EBEC. 

fall  mir- 
deep,  and 
t  the  same 

g  before, 
hastened 
y  walls  of 
itty  good 
irter  of  a 
9.  I  was 
t,  the  ad- 
'  the  time 
upon  the 
could  be 
arance  of 

hat  form 
ted  down 
ier  of  the 
I  in  deep 
was  just 
light  and 
pots,  and 
'ecti}'  dis- 
nd  clouds 

the  rows  of 

the  hay  is 

ks  it  appear- 

r  word  that 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  147 

and  castles,  and  to  recede  from  the  water,  as  if  con- 
scious that  its  dominion  must  now  be  resigned. 

The  retreat  of  the  vapour  formed  a  very  beauti- 
ful part  of  the  scenery  ;  it  was  the  moveable  light 
drapery,  which,  at  first,  adorning  the  bosom  of  the 
lake,  soon  after  began  to  retire  up  the  sides  of  the 
mountains. 

At  the  distance  of  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  the 
lake  turns  to  the  right,  and  is  lost  amoi^:;  t!  ^  moun- 
tains ;  to  the  left,  is  north-west  Bay,  more  remote 
and  visible  from  the  fort. 

The  promontory,  which  forms  the  point  of  junc- 
tion between  the  lake  and  the  bay,  rises  into  lofty 
peaks  and  ridges,  and  apparently/  forms  the  north- 
ern termination  of  the  lake. 

Up  these  mountains,  which  are  even  more  grand 
and  lofty,  than  those  on  the  sides  of  the  lake,  the 
vapour,  accumulated  by  a  very  slight  movement  of 
the  atmosphere  from  the  south,  rolled  in  immense 
masses,  every  moment  changing  their  form ;  now 
obscuring  the  mountains  almost  entirely,  and  now 
veiling  their  sides,  but  permitting  their  tops  to 
emerge,  in  unclouded  majesty. 

Anxious  to  witness,  from  the  surface  of  the  lake, 
the  first  appearance  of  the  sun's  orb,  we  regained 
our  boat,  and,  in  a  few  moments,  attained  the  de- 
sired position.  Opposite  to  us,  in  the  direction  to- 
wards the  rising  sun,  was  a  place  or  notch,  lower 
than  the  general  ridge  of  the  mountains,  and  form- 
(id  by  the  intersecting  curves  of  two  declivities. 


^%.. 

•*,- 


If* 


r 


It 


\l     f ) 


148  T0T;R    BBTWEKN    UARTFORD    and    <iUE&EC. 

Precisely  through  this  place,  were  poured  upon 
us  the  first  rays,  which  darted  down,  as  if  in  lines 
of  burnished  gold,  diverging  and  distinct,  as  in  a 
diagram ;  the  ridge  of  the  eastern  mountains,  was 
fringed  with  fire,  for  many  a  mile ;  the  numerous 
islands,  so  elegantly  sprinkled  through  the  lake,  and 
which  recently  appeared  and  disappeared,  through 
the  rolling  clouds  of  mist,  now  received  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun,  and  formed  so  many  gilded  gar- 
dens ;  at  last  came  the  sun,  "  rejoicing  in  his 
strength,'^  and,  as  he  raised  the  upper  edge  of  his 
burning  disk  into  view,  in  a  circle  of  celestial  fire, 
the  sight  was  too  glorious  to  behold  ;--it  seemed, 
when  the  full  orb  was  disclosed,  as  if  he  looked  down 
with  complacency,  into  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
spots  in  this  lower  world,  and,  as  if  gloriously  re- 
presenting his  great  creator,  he  pronounced  "  it  alt 
very  good."  I  certainly  never  belore  saw  the  sun 
rise  with  such  majesty  I  have  not  exaggerated  the 
effect,  and,  without  doubt,  it  arises  principally  from 
the  fact,  that  Lake  George  is  so  completely  envi- 
roned by  a  barrier  of  high  mountains,  that  it  is  in 
deep  shade,  while  the  world  around  is  in  light, 
and  the  sun,  already  risen  for  some  time,  does  not 
dart  a  single  ray  upon  this  imprisoned  lake,  till, 
having  gained  a  considerable  elevation,  he  bursts,  all 
at  once,  over  the  fiery  ridge  of  the  eastern  moun- 
tains, and  pours,  not  a  horizontal,  but  a  descending 
flood  of  light,  which,  instantly  piercing  the  deep 
shadows,  that  rest  on  the  lake,  and  on  the  western 


I'm 


/« 


t    1 


I 


< 


\ 


,'>t^ 


iid( 


♦     3> 


TOUR  RETWEKN'  HARTFORD  AND  «iUEBEC.  149 

side  of  the  eastern  barrier,  thus  produces  the  finest 
possible  effects  of  contrast.  When  the  sun  had  at> 
tained  a  little  height  above  the  mountain,  we  ob- 
served a  curious  effect ;  a  perfect  cone  of  light,  with 
its  base  towards  the  sun,  lay  upon  the  water,  and, 
from  the  vertex  of  the  cone,  which  reached  half 
across  the  lake,  there  shot  out  a  delicate  line  of  par- 
allel rays,  which  reached  the  western  shore,  and  the 
whole  very  perfectly  represented  a  gilded  steeple. 
As  this  effect  is  opposite  to  the  common  form  of  the 
sun^s  effulgence,  it  must  probably  depend  upon 
some  peculiarities  in  the  shape  of  the  summits  of 
the  mountains  at  this  place. 


■■i 


ill 


PRINTS,   NO.  3  AND    4. 

For  some  illustrations  of  the  scenery  of  the  south 
end  of  Lake  George  and  of  th'e  preceding  descrip- 
tion of  it,  reference  may  be  had  to  the  prints,  No. 
3  and  4, — for  which,  as  well  as  for  all  the  similar 
ornaments  of  this  volume,  I  am  indebted  to  the  pen- 
cil of  my  friend  and  fellow  traveller.  These  two 
views  were  sketched  by  him,  on  a  former  tour,  but 
are,  in  every  respect,  as  appropriate  to  the  present 
occasion,  as  to  the  one  on  which  they  were  drawn. 

The  view.  No.  3,  being  taken  from  the  water's 
edge,  in  front  of  the  public  house,  in  the  village  of 
Caldwell,  which  stands  on  the  very  shore  of  the 
south-western  side  of  the  lake,  of  course  leaves 
that  village  in  the  rear,  and  exhibit<>,  as  the  most 


I: 


'I 


VlW    ^..^^.     -    - 


i^ 


l50      TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTrORD  AND  QUCSCC. 


M 


'■   I 


>'-•' 


I'  '/ 


prominent  objects,  the  mountains,  on  the  eastern 
shore  forming  a  strong  contrast  with  the  peaceful 
bosom  of  the  lake.  Several  of  the  islands  are  in 
sight,  and  pleasantly  diversify  the  uniform  surface 
of  the  water,  the  view  of  which,  to  the  north,  and 
north-west,  is,  necessarily,  limited  by  the  position 
of  the  observer. 

Inprint,  No.  4,  the  observer  being  at  Fort  George, 
situated,  as  I  have  already  remarked,  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  in  a 
direct'on,  about  mid-way  between  its  eastern  and 
western  sides,  contemplates  a  prospect,  considera- 
bly different  from  that  seen  in  the  other  position. 
The  eastern  barrier  is  now  much  less  in  view  :  the 
promontory,  where  the  lake  turns  off  to  the  right, 
and  is  lost  among  the  mountains,  and  where  north- 
west bay  stretches  to  the  left  and  appears  bounded 
by  very  high  mountains,  is  immediately  before  him, 
at  the  distance  of  about  twelve  miles  ;  the  islands, 
in  view,  are  more  numerous,  and  give  greater  varie- 
ty to  the  now  more  extended  surface  of  the  lake ; 
and,  immediately  at  the  observer's  feet,  is  the  ac- 
clivity, by  which  we  ascend  from  the  lake,  to  the 
old  fort,  upon  the  walls  of  which  we  are  supposed 
to  stand,  and  they,  of  course,  are  not  in  view.  On 
the  very  shore,  we  observe  one  of  the  old  barracks, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  fort,  now  exhibiting  a 
tavern  sign,  and,  till  within  a  few  years,  constituting 
the  only  place  of  accommodation  to  those  who  vis- 
ited Lake  George.     At  this  place,  although  princi- 


?!l 


S 


'^ 


'.}<.^ 


:*f^-' 


•***--* 


CB£C. 

I  eastern 
peaceful 
s  are  in 
I  surface 
>rth,  and 
position 

;  George, 
ome  dis- 
and  in  a 
tern  and 
msidera- 
position. 
ew :  the 
he  right, 
re  north- 
bounded 
ore  him, 
\  islands, 
er  varie- 
iG  lake ; 

the  ac- 
3,  to  the 
iupposed 
jw.  On 
)arracks, 

biting  a 
istiluting 
n\\o  vis- 
I  princi- 


.TTp^ijpr,iiii!t,vi:|](i;ii!ini?uiiriift«ii! 


fe  :■  .pll 


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r. 


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."*S  \«\Jt 


TOUR  BETWEEjr  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  151 

pally  covered  by  the  water,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old 
military  quay  or  pier,  formerly  extending  a  good 
way  into  the  lake,  and  affording  important  facilities 
to  the  numerous  expeditions,  that  have  sailed  upon 
Lake  George. 


f 


REMARKS  ON  LAKE  GEORGE  AND  ITS  ENVIRONfc* 

Every  one  has  heard  of  the  transparency  of  the 
waters  of  Lake  George.  This  transparency  is,  in- 
deed, very  remarkable,  and  the  same,  (as  we  might 
indeed  well  suppose  it  would  be,)  is  the  fact  with 
all  the  streams  that  pour  into  it.  After  the  day 
light  became  strong,  we  could  see  the  bottom  per- 
fectly, in  most  places  where  we  rowed,  and  it  is  said, 
that  in  fishing,  even  in  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  of 
water,  the  angler  may  select  his  fish,  by  bring- 
ing the  hook  near  the  mouth  of  the  one  which  he 
prefers. 

Bass  and  trout  are  among  the  most  celebrated 
fish  of  the  lake  ;  the  latter  were  now  in  season,  and 
nothing  of  the  kmd  can  be  finer ;  this  beautiful  fish, 
elegantly  decorated,  and  gracefully  formed,  shy  of 
observation,  rapid  in  its  movements,  and  delighting, 
above  ail,  in  the  perfect  purity  of  its  element,  finds 
in  Lnkc  George,  a  residence,  most  happily  adapted 
to  its  nature.  Here  it  attains  a  very  uncommon 
sice,  and  exhibits  its  most  perfect  beauty  and  sym- 


.,  \ 


i 


1^ 


# 


\52   TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND   (iUEHEC. 


■i  ii 


i-       i 


metry.     The  delicate  carnation  of  its  Hesb,  is  here 
also  most  remarkable,  and  its  flavour  exquisite. 

If  the  lovers  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful,  visit 
Lake  George,  for  its  scenery,  and  the  patriotic,  to 
behold  the  places  where  their  fathers  stemmed  the 
tide  of  savage  invasion;  the  epicure,  also,  will  come 
not  to  cherish  the  tender  and  the  heroic,  nor  to  ad- 
mire the  picturesque  and  the  grand,  but  to  enjoy 
the  native  luxuries  of  the  place. 

The  lake  is  about  a  mile  wide  near  its  head,  and 
is  sometimes  wider,  sometimes  narrower  than  this, 
but  rarely  exceeding  two  miles,  through  its  length  of 
thirty-six  miles.  It  is  said  to  contain  as  many 
islands,  as  there  are  days  in  the  year. 

I  had  scarcely  any  opportunities  of  observing  the 
mineralogy  and  geology  of  this  region. 

The  beautiful  crystals  of  quartz,  which  all  stran- 
gers obtain  at  Lake  George,  are  got  on  the  islands  in 
the  lake  ;  one  about  four  miles  from  its  head,  (and 
called,  of  course,  the  diamond  island,)  ^ns  been 
principally  famous  for  affording  them  ;  tl ,.  :  is  a  so- 
litary miserable  cottage  upon  this  island,  from 
which  we  saw  the  smoke  ascending  ; — a  woman, 
who  lives  in  it,  is  facetiously  called  "the  lady  of  the 
lake,"  but,  probably  no  Malcolm  Groeme,  and  Rhod- 
erick  Dhu  will  ever  contend  on  her  account. 

Crystals  are  now  obtained  from  other  islands,  t 
believe,  more  than  from  this,  and  they  are  said  no 
longer  to  find  the  single  loose  crystals  in  abundance 


i  I 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  q,UBBEC.    153 


on  the  shores,  but  break  up  the  rocks  for  this  pur- 
pose. Poor  people  occupy  themselves  in  procur- 
ing crystals,  which  they  deposit  at  the  public  house, 
for  sale. 

The  crystals  of  Lake  George,  are  hardly  surpass- 
ed by  any  in  the  world,  for  transparency,  and  for 
perfection  of  form  ;  they  are,  as  usual,  the  six-sided 
prism,  and  are  frequently  terminated  at  both  ends  by 
six-sided  pyramids.  These  last  must,  of  course,  be 
found  loose,  or,  at  least,  not  adhering  to  any  rock  ; 
those  which  are  broken  off,  have  necessarily  only 
one  pyramid.*  I  procured  specimens  of  the  rocky 
matrix,  in  which  the  crystals  are  formed  ;  it  is  of  a 
quartzoze  nature,  and  contains  cavities  finely  stud- 
ded with  crystals. 

The  crystals  of  Lake  George  frequently  contain 
a  dark  coloured  foreign  substance,  enclosed  all 
around,  or  partially  so  ;  its  nature,  I  believe,  has  not 
been  ascertained  ;  it  may  be  manganese,  titanium, 
or  iron. 

I  had  no  opportunity  to  see  the  rocks,  except 
those  on  which  Fort  George  stands,  and  which  form 
the  barrier  of  the  lake,  at  its  head  ;  the  are  a  dove- 
coloured,  compact  lime-stone,  of  a  very  clo^^e  grain, 
and  smooth  conchoidal  fracture  ;  they  very  much 

'"  I  hare  a  eryttiil  from  Lake  George,  obtained  by  a  toldier, 
and  presented  to  the  late  President  Dwight,  which  is  between  five 
and  six  inchns  long,  by  three  broad,  and  is  perfoctly  limpid,  and 
well  orjitalised. 

14 


VI 


iiii 


I; 


'   i 


* 


154  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 


2  J   ,r 


resemble  the  marble  of  Middlebury,  (Vermont,; 
and,  I  suppose,  belong  to  the  transition  class.  I 
could  get  no  view  of  the  rocks  of  the  two  lateral 
barriers,  but,  from  what  I  afterwards  saw,  I  conclude 
they  are  primitive,  and  probably  (at  least  the  eas- 
tern one,)  gneiss.* 

The  vulgar,  about  the  lake,  say,  that  in  some  pla- 
ces, it  has  no  bottom  ;  by  which,  doubtless,  ought 
to  be  understood  that  it  is  in  some  pla  '.es  so  deep 
as  not  to  be  fathomed  by  their  lines  ;  I  know  of  no 
attempts  to  ascertain  its  greatest  depth. 

The  mountains  are  extensively,  or  rather  almost 
universally  in  dense  forest;  rattle  snakes  and  deer 
abound  upon  them,  and  hunting  is  still  pursued  here 
with  success. 

I  was  credibly  informed,  that,  a  few  years  since, 
there  was  a  man  in  this  vicinity,  who  had  the  sin- 
gular power,  and  the  still  stranger  temerity,  to  catch 
living  rattle  snakes  with  his  naked  hands,  without 
wounding  the  snakes,  or  being  wounded  by  them  ; 
he  used  to  accumulate  numbers  of  them  in  this 
manner,  for  curiosity,  or  for  sale,  and,  for  a  long 
time,  persisted,  uninjured,  in  this  audacious  prac- 
tice; but,  at  last,  the  awful  fate,  which  all  buthim- 

•  "  ..Meade  (Experimental  Enquiry,  &c.{>.  5,)  remarks,  that 
the  eastern  side  of  Lake  George  is  composed  of  transition  rocks  . 
the  head  of  this  lake  appears,  indeed,  to  be  transition  lime-stune) 
and  possibly  its  bed  may  be  the  same  ;  although  the  quartz  from 
tie  islands,  Mhich  I  have  not  Tisited,)  gives  a  different  indica- 
tion ;  both  barriers  are.  however,  undoultcdly  primitive. 


EL. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  155 


srmont,; 
;Iass.  I 
»  lateral 
onclude 
the  eas- 

)mep1a- 
ought 
so  deep 
w  of  no 

'  almost 
nd  deer 
ed  here 

s  since, 
he  sin- 

0  catch 
without 

them  ; 
in   this 

a  long 
3  prac- 
it  him- 

ks,  that 

1  rocks . 
e-8tone» 
'tz  from 

iDclicu* 


self,  had  expected,  overtook  him;  he  was  bitten, 
and  died.  Surely  no  motive,  except  one  spring- 
iiig  from  the  highest  moral  duty,  could  have  justifi- 
ed such  an  exposure. 

In  some  places,  the  mountains,  contiguous  to  the 
shores,  arc  rocky  and  precipitous.  Tradition  re- 
lates, that  a  white  man,  closely  pursued,  in  the  win- 
ter season,  by  two  Indians,  contrived  to  reach  the 
ice,  on  the  surface  of  the  lake,  by  letting  himself 
down  one  of  these  precipices,  and,  before  the  In- 
dians could  follow,  he  was  on  his  skails,  and  dart- 
ing, '* swift  as  the  winds  along,"  was  soon  out  of 
their  reach. 

I  am  not  informed  that  the  height  of  the  moun- 
tains, about  Lake  George,  has  ever  been  measured  : 
they  appeared  to  my  eye,  generally,  to  exceed  one 
thousand  feet,  and  probably  the  highest  may  be  fif 
teen  hundred,  or  more. 

The  wreck  of  a  steam-boat,  recently  burnt  to  th^ 
waters  edge,  lay  near  the  tavern :  it  gave  great  fa- 
cility in  going  down  this  beautiful  lake  to  Ticondero- 
ga;  parties  and  individuals,  were  much  in  the  habit 
of  making  this  tour;  and,  were  there  a  good  road, 
instead  of  a  very  bad  one,  from  Glenn's  falls  to 
Lake  George,  find  were  the  steam-boat  re-estab- 
lished, it  must  become  as  great  a  rer^ort,  as  tiie  lakes 
of  Westmoreland  and  Cumberland,  or  as  Loch  Ka- 
trin,  now  immortalized  by  the  muse  of  Scott. 

The  village  of  Caldwell,  built  entirely  since  (he 
American  war,  contains  five  or  six  hundred  inhabit- 


|l 


156  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

ants,  with  neat  buildings,  public  and  private,  and  a 
very  large  commodious  public  house,  well  provided 
and  attended,  so  that  strangers,  visiting  the  lake,  can 
have  every  desired  accommodation.  This  village, 
I  am  informed,  has  arisen  principally  from  the  ex- 
ertions of  one  enterprising  individual,  from  whom  it 
derives  its  name,  as  well  as  its  existence.  He  has 
lived  to  see  his  labours  crowned  with  success,  and  a 
pretty  village  now  smiles  at  the  foot  of  the  western 
barrier  of  Lake  George,  on  ground  where  the  iron 
ramparts  of  war  are  ^till  visible;  for,  on  this  very 
ground,  the  Marquis  Montcalm's  army  was  en- 
trenched, at  the  siege  of  Fort  William  Henry,  in 
1757. 


BATTLES  OF  LAKE  GEORGE. 

In  the  wars  of  this  country,  Lake  George  has 
long  been  conspicuous.  Its  head  waters  formed  the 
shortest,  and  most  convenient  connexion,  between 
Canada,  and  the  Hudson,  and  hence  the  establish- 
ment of  Fort  William  Henry,  in  1755,  and,  in  more 
recent  times,  of  Fort  George,  in  its  immediate  vi- 
cinity. 

This  most  beautiful  and  peaceful  lake,  environed 
by  mountains,  and  seeming  to  claim  an  exemption 
from  the  troubles  of  an  agitated  world,  has  often 
bristled  with  the  proud  array  of  war,  has  wafted  its 


M 


BEC. 

te,  and  a 
provided 
lake,  can 
5  village, 

the  ex- 
whom  it 

He  has 
ss,  and  a 

western 

the  iron 

this  very 

was   CD- 

[enry,  in 


rge  has 
med  the 
>etween 
itablish- 
in  more 
iate  vi- 

vironed 
mption 
often 
fted  its 


TOUR    HEX  WEEN    IIAUTFORD  AND    (JUEnEf.    167 

most  formidable  preparations  on  its  bosom,  and  has 
repeatedly  witnessed  both  the  splendors  and  the 
havoc  of  battle. 

Large  armies  have  been,  more  than  once,  em- 
barked on  Lake  George,  proceeding  down  it,  on 
their  way,  to  attack  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point; 
this  was  the  fact  with  the  army  of  Abercrombie, 
consisting  of  nearly  sixteen  thousand  men,  including 
nine  thousand  troops  from  the  colonies,  and  a  very 
formidable  train  of  artillery,  which,  on  the  fifth  of 
July  1758,  embarked  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
George,  on  board  of  one  hundred  twenty-five  whale 
boats,  and  nine  hundred  batteaux. 

What  an  armament  for  that  period  of  this  coun- 
try !  What  a  spectacle,  on  such  a  narrow  quiet  lake ! 
It  is  said  by  an  eye  witness,  to  have  been  a  most 
imposing  sight.  Little  did  this  proud  army  imagine, 
that  within  two  days,  they  would  sustain,  before  Ti- 
conderoga, a  most  disastrous  defeat,  with  the  loss 
of  nearly  two  thousand  men,  and  of  lord  Howe,* 

*  "  Lord  Howe,  who  was  killed  near  Ticonderoga  about  two  and 
.1  half  miles  from  the  French  lines  near  the  north  end  of  Lake 
George,  in  a  renconter  the  day  preceding  the  disastrous  assault, 
upon  tliat  fortress,  was  not  the  father,  but  the  elder  brother  of 
the  two  Howes,  who  were  so  conspicuous  in  the  Revolutionary 
War,  and  from  him  the  Admiral,  (being  the  elder  of  the  two  sur- 
viving brothers,)  inherited  the  title  of  Viscount  and  afterwards 
became  an  Earl.  Lord  Howe  was  at  the  time  of  his  (aW,  a  young 
man,  thouafh  a  Major  General.  Richard,  who  succeeded  to  the 
title,  was  then  a  Captain  in  the  British  navy,  and  Gen.  Sir.  Wil- 
liam Howe  was  then  a  Colonel.  In  the  accounts  of  the  celebrated 
batti'^ton  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  he  is  mentioned  as  commanding 

14* 


1  * 


i: 


! 


l-f 


H 


in 


158   TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFOHO    AND    (QUEBEC. 

one  of  their  most  beloved  and  promising  leaders, 
and  that  they  would  so  soon  return  up  the  lake,  in 
discomfiture  and  disgrace.  In  July,  of  the  next 
summer,  ( 1 759,)  Lake  George  was  again  covered 
with  an  armament,  Httle  inferior  in  numbers,  to  that 
of  General  Abercrombie,  but  vastly  superior  in  suc- 
cess; for  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  were 
abandoned  at  its  approach,  and  General  Amherst, 
its  fortunate  leader,  obtained  an  almost  bloodless 
victory.* 


FORT  WILLIAM   HENRY. 


y :; 


The  remains  of  this  old  fort  are  still  visible;  they 
are  on  the  verge  of  the  lake,  at  its  head  ;  the  walls, 
the  gate,  and  the  out-works,  can  still  be  complete- 
ly traced;  the  ditches  have,  even  now,  considera- 
ble depth,  and  the  well  that  supplied  the  garrison, 
is  there,  and  affords  water  to  this  day;  near,  and 
in  this  fort,  much  blood  has  been  shed. 


the  British  Light  Infantry.  These  three  Howes,  were  in  feet, 
the  Grandsons  of  George  the  First,  being  the  children  of  his  ille- 
gitimnte  daughter  by  Lady  Darlington^  married  to  Lord  Viscount 
Howe.  {Extract  from  a  private  anonymous  communication  to  the 
author^  correcting  a  mistake  in  Ifte  note  on  page  155,  of  the  former 
eit/ton.;— 1824.  , 

•Colonel  Roger  Townhsend  was  killed  by  a  cannon  shot,  while 
j-econnoitering,  on  almost  the  same  spot  where  lord  Howe  was 
killed,  the  year  before  :  he  is  said  to  have  resembled  him  much, 
<^  in  birth,  age,  qualifications,  aod  character.*' 


EBEC. 

;  leaders, 
e  lake,  in 
the  next 
1  covered 
rs,  to  that 
ior  in  sue- 
nt,  were 
Amherst, 
bloodless 


)le;  they 
he  walls, 
omplete- 
onsidera- 
garrison, 
lear,  and 


^ere  in  feet, 
I  of  his  ille- 
rd  Viscount 
ation  to  the 
the  former 

shot,  ^hile 
Howe  was 
him  much, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  159 

In  August,  1755,  General,  afterwards  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  lay  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  with 
an  army,  about  to  proceed  to  the  attack  of  Crown 
Point;  they  were  troops  raised  by  the  northern 
colonies. 

Baron  Dieskau,  who  commanded  the  French 
forces  in  Canada,  leaving  Ticonderoga,  came  up 
Lake  Champlain,  through  south  bay,  and  was  pro- 
ceeding to  the  attack  of  Fort  Edward,  which  con- 
tained not  five  hundred  men,  and  had  been  report- 
ed to  Dieskau,  to  be  without  cannon.  To  the  suc- 
cour of  this  fort.  General  Johnson  detached  one 
thousand  men,  and  two  hundred  Indians,  under 
Colonel  Williams,  of  Deerfield. 

Dieskau's  army,  having  in  the  mean  time  learn- 
ed that  there  were  cannon  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
being  assured  that  General  Johnson's  camp  was 
without  artillery  or  entrenchments,  importuned 
their  General  to  change  his  purpose  of  attacking 
Fort  Edward,  and  to  lead  them  northward,  to  assail 
Johnson's  camp.  Dieskau  yielded  to  their  wishef , 
and  turned  his  course  accordingly.  The  moun- 
tains, which  form  the  barrier  of  Lake  George,  con- 
tinue to  the  south  after  they  leave  the  lake,  form- 
ing a  rugged,  narrow  defile,  of  several  miles  in 
length,  most  of  which  was  then,  and  still  is,  filled 
with  forest  trees. 

In  this  defile,  about  four  miles  from  General  John- 
son's camp,  Colonel  Williams'  party,  which  left  the 
camp,  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the  morn- 


ih    if 


I 


^ 

i;'l 


,1 


n  I 


\ 


I 


rf  /:. 


ii  m 


iGOTOUn    BETWEEN'    HARTFORD   AND    QUEBEC. 

ing,  of  September  8th,  1755,  very  unexpectedly  fell 
in  with  the  army  of  Baron  Dieskau ;  the  two  armies 
met  in  the  road,  front  to  front;  the  Indians  of 
Dieskau's  army  were  in  ambuscade,  upon  both  de- 
chvities  of  the  mountains,  and  thus  it  was  a  complete 
surprise,  for  Colonel  Williams  had  unhappily  neg- 
lected to  place  any  scouts  upon  his  wings.  A  bloody 
battle  ensued,  and  a  deadly  tire  was  poured  in  upon 
both  flanks.-Colonel  Williams,  endeavouring  to  lead 
his  men  against  the  unseen  enemy,  was  instantly 
shot  through  the  head,  and  he,  and  hundreds  of  his 
party,  including  old  Hendrick,  the  chief  of  the  Mo- 
hawks, and  forty  Indians  were  slain.  The  remain- 
der of  the  party,  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
Whiting,  retreated  into  the  camp.  They  came  run- 
ning in,  in  the  utmost  confusion  and  consternation, 
and  perhaps  owed  their  safety,  in  a  great  measure, 
to  another  party,  which,  when  the  firing  was  heard, 
and  perceived  to  be  growing  louder  and  nearer,  was 
sent  out  to  succour  them.  ' 

Judge  Kent  informed  me,  that  old  Mr.  Van 
Schaik,  of  Kinderhook,  has  recently  related  to  him 
that,  arriving  the  next  day,  on  the  ground  where  the 
battle  was  fought,  he  saw  three  hundred  men,  dead 
on  the  spot,  and  Baron  Dieskau  lying,  mortally 
wounded,  in  the  English  camp,  on  the  bed  of  Gene- 
ral Johnson.  This  wound  was  received  in  a  second, 
and  a  still  greater  battle,  fought  the  same  day.  Dies- 
kau, after  the  retreat  of  Williams'  party,  marchingon 
with  spirit,  attacked  General  Johnson's  entrenched 


oa 
ve 


I 


/   ' 


uBEC. 

ctedly  fell 
wo  armies 
ndians  of 

1  both  de- 
complete 
>pily  neg- 
A  bloody 
d  in  upon 
ng  to  lead 

instantly 
eds  of  his 
f  the  Mo- 

2  remain- 
Colonel 

ame  run- 
ernation, 
measure, 
as  heard, 
irer,  was 

tfr.  Van 
d  to  him 
^here  the 
en,  dead 
mortally 
f  Gene- 
second, 
r.  Dies- 
chingon 
renched 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  161 

camp,  and  although  he  fought  with  long  and  perse- 
vering valour,  his  army,  in  a  great  measure  deserted 
by  the  Canadians  and  Indians,  was  repulsed  with  im- 
mense slaughter,  Dieskau,  wounded  in  the  leg,  and 
unable  to  follow  his  retreating  army,  was  found  lean- 
ing against  a  tree ;  he  began  to  feel  for  his  watch,  in 
order  to  deliver  it  up  to  the  soldier,  who  was  ap- 
proaching him;  but  the  soldier  supposing  him  to  be 
searching  for  a  pistol,  unhappily  fired  a  charge  int© 
his  hips  which  caused  his  death.* 

Nor  did  this  battle  terminate  the  fighting  of  this 
bloody  day.  The  remains  of  Dieskau's  army  re- 
treated, about  four  miles,  to  the  ground  where  Co- 
lonel Williams  had  been  defeated  in  the  morning, 
— the  rear  of  the  army  were  there  sitting  upon  the 
ground,  had  opened  their  knapsacks,  and  were  re- 
freshing themselves,  when  Captain  McGinnies,  who 

*  An  anonymouB  correspondent,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  fur 
several  kind  and  judicious  suggestions,  respecting  this  book,  some- 
ivhat  questions,  nt'hether  Baron  Dieskau  died  of  his  wound,  and 
thioks  that  he  recovered  aDd  returned  to  Europe,  but  at  the  same 
time  states  that  the  account  in  the  text,  corresponds  with  the 
traditionary  stories  which  he  had  heard  in  his  childhood. — The 
book  from  which  I  quoted  the  fact,  was  a  very  early  history  of 
those  campaigns,  in  12  mo.  loaned  to  me,  at  the  time,  as  a  pocket 
travelling  history,  by  Chancellor  Kent. — [ta  title  I  do  not  now 
remember,  and  believe  it  was  anonymous. 

President  Dwight  in  his  travels,  Vol.  3,  page  361,  gives  a  very 
interesting  and  full  history  of  the  battles  of  Lake  George. — His 
account  of  the  manner  in  which  Dieskau  received  his  wound  cor- 
responds precisely  with  mine,  but  he  adds,  that  he  "was  convey- 
ed from  Albany  to  New- York,  and  from  theoce  to  England,  where 
soon  after  he  died." 


11 


i 


i  !■<• 


■\i 


^  \.\n 


'  »i   ,1 


<-T" 


I 


j:k 


I    ,1. 

l 

if 


H 


.1   ii' 


162    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTPORD    A\D    (QUEBEC. 

with  two  hundred  men,  had  b  <  ;  f^i'spatched  from 
Vort  Edward,  to  succour  the  uiain  body,  came  up 
with  this  portion  of  the  French  army,  thus  sitting 
insecurity,  and  attacked  and  totally  defeated  them, 
although  he  was  himself  mortally  wounded.  Thus 
were  three  battles  fought  in  one  day,*  and  almost 
upon  the  same  ground.  This  ground  I  went  over. 
The  neighbouring  mountain,  in  which  the  French 
so  suddenly  made  their  appearance,  is  to  this  day, 
called  French  Mountain,  and  this  name,  with  the 
tradition  of  the  fact,  will  be  sent  down  to  the  latest 
posterity.  I  was  shown  a  rock  by  the  road  at 
which  a  considerable  slaughter  took  place.  It  was 
on  the  east  side  of  the  road  near  where  Col.  Wil- 
liams fell,  and  I  am  informed  is,  to  this  day,  called 
Williams''  Rock, 


THE  BLOODY  POJfD. 


(  :    ; 


Just  by  the  present  road,  and  in  the  midst  of 
these  battle  grounds,  is  a  circular  pond,  shaped  ex- 
actly like  a  bowl ;  it  may  be  two  hundred  feet  in 
diameter,  and  was,  when  1  saw  it^  full  of  water,  and 
covered  loith  the  pond  lilly,  Alas !  this  pond,  now 
so  peaceful,  was  the  common  sepulchre  of  the 
brave ;  the  dead  bodies  of  most  of  those  who  were 
slain  on  this  eventful  day,  were  thrown,  in  undis- 

*  Smollet  and  some  other  writers  place  this  last  battle  on  the 
next  (lay. 


..*~      *«*». 


EBGC. 

ched  from 
,  came  up 
hus  sitting 
itcd  them, 
3d.     Thus 
md  almost 
went  over, 
he  French 
o  this  day, 
,  with  the 
)  the  latest 
le  road  at 
;e.     It  was 
Col.  Wil. 
day,  called 


e  midst  of 
shaped  ex- 
red  feet  in 
'  water,  and 
pond,  now 
ire  of  the 
I  who  were 
,  in  undis- 

battle  on  the 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.     IGi 

tinguished  confusion  into  this  pond  ;  from  that  time 
to  the  present,  it  has  been  called  the  bloody  pond, 
and  there  is  not  a  child  in  this  region,  but  will  point 
you  to  the  French  mountain,  and  to  the  bloody 
pond.  — I  stood  with  dread,  upon  its  brink,  and 
threw  a  stone  into  its  unconscious  waters.  After 
these  events,  a  regular  fort  was  constructed  at  the 
head  of  the  lake  and  called  Fort  William  Henry. 


MASSACRE  OF  FOaT  WILLIAM  HENRY. 

The  three  battles  of  September  8th,  were  not 
the  end  of  the  tragedies  of  Lake  George.  The 
Marquis  de  Montcalm,  after  three  ineffectual  at- 
tempts upon  Fort  William  Henry,  made  great  ef- 
forts to  besiege  it  in  form,  and  in  August,  1757, 
having  landed  ten  thousand  men  near  the  fort  sum- 
moned it  to  surrender.  The  place  of  his  landing 
was  shown  me,  a  little  north  of  the  public  house  ; 
the  remains  of  his  batteries  and  other  works  are 
still  visible  ;  and  the  graves  and  bones  of  the  slaiu 
are  occasionally  discovered. 

He  had  a  powerful  train  of  artillery,  and  although 
the  fort  and  works  were  garrisoned  by  three  thou- 
sand men,  and  were  most  gallantly  defended  by  the 
commander,  Colonel  Monroe,  it  was  obliged  to  capit- 
ulate; but  the  most  honourable  terms,  were  granted 
to  Colonel  Monroe,  in  consideration  of  his  great  gal- 


I 


' 


"•S-^Sl, 


^K^ 


■««W|«l^W5^,jjr5ig3, 


ll 


:j*Ci.; 


164   TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND    <iUEBEL. 

lantry.  The  bursting  of  the  great  guns,  the  want  ol 
ammunition,  and  above  all,  the  failure  of  General 
Webb  to  succour  the  fort,  although  he  lay  idle  at 
Fort  Edward  with  four  thousand  men,  were  the 
causes  of  this  catastrophe. 

The  capitulation  was,  however,  most  shamefully 
broken  ;  the  Indians  attached  to  Montcalm's  army, 
while  the  troops  were  marching  out  of  the  gate  of 
the  fort,  dragged  the  men  from  the  ranks,  particu- 
larly the  Indians  in  the  English  service,  and  butch- 
ered them  in  cold  blood — they  plundered  all  with- 
out distinction,  and  murdered  women  and  little 
children,  with  circumstances  of  the  most  aggravated 
barbarity.*  The  massacre  continued  all  along  the 
road,  through  the  defile  of  the  mountains,  and  for 
many  miles,  the  miserable  prisoners,  especially 
those  in  the  rear,  were  tomahawked  and  hewn 
down  in  cold  blood  ;  it  might  well  be  called  the 
bloody  defile,  for  it  was  the  same  ground  that  was 
the  scene  of  the  battles,  only  two  years  before,  in 
1755.  It  is  said  that  efforts  were  made  by  the  French 
to  restrain  the  barbarians,  but  they  were  not  restrain- 
ed, and  the  miserable  remnant  of  the  garrison  with 
difficulty  reached  Fort  Fdward  pursued  by  the  In- 

*  Men  and  women  had  Iheir  throats  cut,  their  bodies  ripped 
open,  and  their  bowels,  with  insult,  thrown  in  their  faces.— In- 
fants and  children  were  barbarously  taken  by  the  heels,  and  their 
brains  dashed  out  against  stones  and  trees.  The  Indians  pursued 
the  English  nearly  half  the  way  to  Fort  Edward,  where  the 
greatest  nuusber  of  them  arrived  in  a  most  forlorn  condition. 


EBEC. 


TOUft   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    165 


le  want  ot 

General 

y  idle  at 

were  the 

lamefully 
u's  army, 

le  gate  of 
;,  particu- 
nd  butch- 
l  all  wilh- 
ind  little 
ggravatcd 

along  the 
8,  and  for 
especially 
nd  hewn 
ailed   the 

that  was 
before,  in 
le  French 
>t  restrain- 
rison  with 
by  the  In- 

odies  ripped 
faces.— In- 

>Is,  and  their 

ians  pursued 
where  the 

tditioD. 


dians,  although  escorted  by  a  body  of  French  troops. 
I  passed  over  the  whole  of  the  ground,  upon  which 
this  tragedy  was  acted,  and  the  oldest  men  of  the 
country  still  remember  this  deed  of  guilt  and  infa- 
my. 

Fort  William  Henry  was  levelled  by  Montcalm, 
and  has  never  been  rebuilt.  Fort  George  was 
built  as  a  substitute  for  it,  on  a  more  commanding 
site,  and  although  often  mentioned  in  the  history 
of  subsequent  wars,  was  not,  I  believe,  the  scene  of 
any  very  memorable  event. 

It  was  the  depot  for  the  stores  of  the  army  of 
General  Burgoyne,  till  that  commander  relinquish' 
cd  his  connexion  with  the  lakes,  and  endeavoured 
to  push  his  fortunes  without  depending  upon  his 
magazines  in  the  rear. 

Having  occupied  a  very  busy  morning  in  visiting 
the  memorable  places  at  the  head  of  Lake  George, 
and  having  procured  specimens  of  the  mineral  pro- 
ductions of  this  region,  I  proceeded  on  my  journey 
to  Fort  Anne.  Mr.  H ,  my  obliging  compan- 
ion, attended  me,  and  we  were  necessitated  to  re 
turn  some  miles  through  the  gorge  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  again  to  view  the  bloody  pond,  the  French 
Mountain,  and  the  bloody  defile.  Rarely,  I  pre- 
sume, have  such  scenes  of  horror  been  exhibited  so 
often,  within  so  narrow  a  space.  We  may  confi- 
dently trist,  that  they  will  never  be  repeated ;  that 
Lake  George,  traversed  no  longer   by  armies,   its 

forests  and  its  mountains  undisturbed  by  the  roar 

15 


;uj 


,.i  ■ 


W 


^ 


m 


16U    TOUK   BETWEEN   HAKTVORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


y\ 


I  t 


of  cannoD,  and  its  waters  polluted  no  more  by 
blood  ;  but  visited  in  peace,  by  the  lovers  of  the 
sublime  and  beautiful,  and  arrayed  in  its  own  gran- 
deur and  loveliness,  will  hereafter  exhibit  the  tra- 
gical history  of  other  times,  only  to  impart  a  pen- 
sive tenderness  and  a  moral  dignity  to  the  charming 
scenes  with  which  the  story  of  these  events  is  asso- 
ciated. 

As  we  emerged  from   the   defile,  and   turned  to 
the  left,  around  the  base  of  the  mountains  that  form 
the  eastern  barrier  of  Lake  George,  we  had  many 
opportunities  of  admiring  the  grandeur  of  that  bar- 
rier, and  of  contemplating  all  that  wildness  of  land- 
scape,  which,  it  may  be  presumed,  has  undergone 
little  change,  since  it  was  traversed  by  the  prowling 
savage,  intent  on  the  chase,  or  on  his  more  beloved 
employment,  the  destruction  of  his  fellow  creatures. 
In  this  dreadful  occupation   he  has,  however,  been 
more  than  rivalled  by  the  polished  nations  of  Amer- 
ica and  of  Europe  j  who,  if  they  do  not  pursue  war 
with  the  atrocity  of  the  savasre,  seem  to  have    fo!- 
lowed  it  with  all  his  eagerness,  and  have  often  iden- 
tified themselves  with  his  most  horrid  cruolties,  by 
calling  him  in  as  an  ally  and  a  friend,  and  marching 
by  his  side  to  slaughter  those  who  are  connected  by 
the  common,  (it    ought  to   be  by  the  sacredy)  tie  of 
Christianity. 

In  the  progress  of  cur  ride,  we  emerged  from 
mountain  scenery,  and  saw  many  2;ood  farms,  and 
much  arr'uic  and   pasture  land.     The  country  be- 


lEii, 

more  by 
Ts  of  the 
vvn  gran- 
the  tra- 
rt  a  pen- 
harming 
>  is  asso- 

urned  to 
hat  fu nil 
ad  many 
hat  bar- 
of  land- 
idergone 
prowling 
beloved 
reatures. 
er,  been 
if  Amer- 
rsue  war 
ave  fo!- 
en  iden- 
Ities,  by 
iiarching 
ected  by 
/,)  tie  of 

ed  from 
ms,  and 
ntry  be- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC,  l67 

came  much  less  rugged,  although  the  roads  were 
little  improved  by  art ;  for  they  were  common  and 
often  obscure  cross  roads. 

We  met  with  no  adventure,  and  the  failure  of 
one  of  our  waggon  wheels,  which  obliged  us  to 
walk,  and  to  sustain  the  vehicle  for  the  last  two 
miles,  did  not  prevent  our  arriving  at  the  appointed 
liour  of  dinner  at  old  Fort  Anne,  which  Mr.  Wads- 
worth  hnd  already  reached  before  me. 

Fort  Anne  was  another  post  established  in  the 
French  wars.  It  stood  about  midway  brjtvveen  Fort 
Edward  and  the  most  southern  point  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  at  the  head  ol  batteaux  navigation 
on  Wood  Creek.  I  did  not  go  to  its  site,  the  ruins 
of  which,  I  am  told  are  almost  obliterated;  its 
well,  however,  is  still  to  be  seen.  There  is  a  con- 
siderable village  here,  which  bears  the  name  of  the 
Fort. 


[[n  May,  1821,  I  again  viisited  Lnkc  Gcoigc  ond 
its  environs,  and  passed  in  an  open  boat  down  tli(i 
whole  length  of  the  Lake,  by  water,  to  Ticoiidcro- 
aa.  The  observations  or  mineralogy  and  scenery, 
which  were  made  at  that  time,  were  printcil  in  the 
American  Journal  of  Science,  (Vol.  IV.  p.  44.) 
As  they  may  be  of  use  to  the  traveller,  I  insert  them 
in  this  place,  although  they  will  somewhat  break 
the  order  of  the  narrative.  But  this  slight  incon- 
venience, and    the    unavoidable  anachronism,   will 


iA  ■ 


\C 


111 


.^■■/ 


I  .. 


168  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

probably  be  pardoned  if  the  observations  should  be 
found  to  be  useful. 


Miscellaneous  remarks  on  the  mineralogy,  scenery, 
Sfc,  of  Lake  George^  and  its  environs,  made  in 
May,  1821. 

Compact  dove-coloured  limestone,  apparently  of 
ihe  transition  class  forms  ledges  at  the  head  of  Lake 
George,  and  the  walls  of  old  Fort  George  are  conn- 
posed  of  it.  In  this  limestone  there  is  a  singular 
feature.  Fts  angles  are  rounded  and  smoothed,  as 
by  the  wearing  effects  of  water  and  (a  circumstance 
which  it  appears  much  more  difficult  to  account 
for,)  there  are  numerous  holes  worn  into  the  solid 
rock,  sometimes  shallow  and  irregular,  but  fre- 
quently deep  and  cylindrical,  and  bearing  a  very 
exact  resemblance  to  those  which  are  common  in 
the  ledges  upon  which  cataracts  fall  ;  they  appear 
as  if  they  were  produced  by  the  same  cause,  viz. 
the  wparinji  agency  of  wator  aided  by  small  stones, 
which  it  impels,  in  incessant  vortiginous  revolutions. 
If  one  were  to  judge  from  appearances,  he  would 
infer  that  a  torrent  of  water  once  swept,  with  great 
impetuosity  through  thisdefile  and  wore  these  rocks 
as  we  now  see  them  ;  this  suppo^-iition  has  perhaps 
nothing  to  support  it,  except  these  appearances, 
and  if  we  relinquish  it,  we  have  no  agent  to  which 
we  can  attribute  thrm,  but  the  ordinary  wearing  ef- 
fects of  atmospheric  influeiices,  which  appear  alto- 


BEC. 

hould  be 


,  scenery, 
made  in 


rently  of 
1  of  Lake 
are  corn- 
singular 
)tlied,  as 
jmstance 
account 
the  solid 
but  fre- 
;  a  very 
mmon  in 
r  appear 
use,  viz. 
1  stones, 
olutions. 
le  would 
ith  great 
ise  rocks 
perhaps 
araucus, 
o  which 
rin^  ef- 
ar  altu- 


TOOIl    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND   QITEREC.    169 

gether  incompetent  to  the  production  of  these  re- 
suits. 

Quartz  crystals  in  the  Islands  of  the  South  end  of 
Lake  George.    These  are  commonly  obtained  by 
visitors ;  they  are  now  become    much  more  rare 
than  formerly,   and  those  which  are   procured  are 
small,  although  still  very  limpid  and  beautiful.     On 
visiting  the  Island  called  Diamond  Island,  three  or 
four  miles  from  the  village  of  Caldwell,  and  which 
has  afforded  most  of  these  crystals  we  found  them 
occurring  in  the  same  compact   limestone,  which 
forms  the  ledges  at  the  head  of  the  lake.    This  small 
island    scarcely   covering  the  area  of  a  common 
kitchen  garden  is  inhabited  by  a  family  who  occu- 
py a  small  but   comfortable   house,   and  constantly 
explore   the    rocks  for  the   crystals.     These    are 
found  lining  drusy  cavities,  and  forming  geodes  in 
the  limestone  ;  these  cavities  are  often  brilliantly 
studded  with  them  and  doubtless  it  arose  from  Iheir 
falling  out  by  (he  disintegration  of  tlio  rock  that  the 
crystals  were  formerly  fourul  on  the  shores  of  the 
island  and   in  the  water.      At   prjsent   they   are 
scar:  :ly  obtained   at  all  except  by   breaking   the 
rocks.      The    immediate    matrix    of  the    crystals 
seems  to  be  a  mixture  of  fine  granular  quartz  with 
the  limestone  ;  it  is  impressible  by  steel,  butj^ome- 
times  does  not  effervesce 'vith  acids  though  general- 
ly it  does  and  feebly  scratches  glass.     The  crystals 
of  this  locality  are  of  the  common  form,  very  lim- 

15* 


( 


■W. 


^#..-.  ♦  '^  ■ 


•j(HK*v- 


>^ 


-^saisf^'U- 


■■s^> 


i 


V: 


<//i 


U  ,1  ^^ 


If 


'  i 


170  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 

pi(l,  and  often  contain  a  dark  coloured  foreign  sub- 
stance imbedded  in  them. 

CrystaU  of  Calcareous  f par  well  defined  and  of 
xonsiderable  size  occur  in  t!ie  same  rocks,  some- 
times with  tlie  quartz   crystals  and  sometimes  by 
themselves  ;  they  appear  to  be  modifications  of  the 
rhomboidal  varieties. 

Very  brilliant  rhombic  masses  of  Calcareous  spar 
also  present  themselves  in  these  rocks  ;  these  mas- 
ses are  not  crystals,  but  have  the  crystaline  struc- 
ture, giving  perfectly  rhombcMdal  frap^ments  with  a 
high  pearly  lustre  ;  they  are  very  white  and  appear 
exactly  like  the  Iceland  crystals  oniy  (hey  are  not 
transparent.  They  seem  to  be  the  bitter-spath. 
The  poorpeoplo  on  the  Islandj  had  no  idea  that  the 
calcareous  crystals  were  ot  any  value,  and  had  been 
in  the  habit  of  throwifin;  them  away  ;  we  took  care 
to  give  them  a  difrereut  impression,  and  trust  it  may 
be  useful  to  future  visitors. 

Crystals  of  Diamond  point. — We  passed  down 
(he  whole  length  of  the  lake  (thirty-six  miles)  in  a 
\ery  small  open  boat— a  fisherman's  skitF  rowed  by 
two  men.  We  stopped  at  a  place  on  the  north 
nhore  of  the  lake   caHiMl  Diamond  Point,  from  the 

fact  that  crystals  are  found  also   at  this  place. It 

has  hren  rcrcntly  opened  by  the  man  who  lives  on 
the  Islaad  and  wht*  was  our  guide  on  the  present 
occas  or. — The  rock  and  its  associated  minerals 
are  the  same  as  on  the  Island,  only  we  observed  a 


S 


{EG. 

2ign  sub- 

1  and  of 
s,  some- 
times by 
ns  of  the 

lOus  spar 
lese  mas- 
le  struc- 
s  with  a 
d  appear 

are  not 
er-spath. 

that  the 
had  been 
■)ok  care 
st  it  may 

ed  down 

les)  in  a 

owed  by 

le  north 

rom  the 

ace. — It 

lives  on 

present 

minerals 

served  a 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEliEC.    171 

greater  variety  of  siliceous  minerals; — portions  of 
chalcedony,  and  hornstone  and  agate — elegant  cav- 
ities occupied  by  quartz  crystals  and  some  singular 
banded  portions  concentric  and  curved  like  agate, 
but  without  beauty.  It  is  probable  that  more  re- 
search will  discover  interesting  varieties  of  siliceous 
and  other  minerals,  in  the  limestone  of  the  south 
end  of  Lake  George.  It  would  probably  repay  a 
good  observer  who  should  investigate  it  with  indus- 
try and  attention. 

Sands  of  Lake  George* — At  various  places  we  ex- 
amined the  sands  of  the  shores  of  this  most  beauti- 
ful lake.     Around  its  head,  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
magnetic  iron  sand  of  a  line  glossy  black,  and  both 
here  and  in  many  other  places,  we  found  the  de- 
tritus to  consist  almost  entirely  of  the  ruins  of  prim- 
itive rocks  and  of  their  imbedded  and  especially  of 
their  crystalline  minerals. — Limpid  quartz,  garnet, 
and  epidote  are  of  most   frequent  occurrence   and 
when  mixed  with  the  black  iron  sand  they  have  a 
pleasing  appearance,   especially  when  spread  out 
on  paper  and  viewed  with  a  magnifier.  It  is  indeed 
somewhat  difficult  to  believe,  that  the  garnet  and 
epidote  and  probably  coccolite  often  rich   in  their 
colours  and   highly   transnicent,  are  not  ruby  and 
chrysoberyl.     It  would  be  worth  while  to  examine 
ihcse  sands  more  particularly  to  ascertain  whether 
these  may  not  be  ^^ems  among  them,  as  the  gems  of 
Ceylon  and  of  Bra/i!,  and  the  hyacinths  of  Kxpail- 
ly  in  France  are  found  among  alluvial  ruins.     Some 


:i    II 


,?-. 


■  HHMimK  , 


172  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 


i>.  i 


sands  shown  us  by  Prof.  Dewey  at  Williamstown, 
and  which  came  from  the  great  falls  of  the  Hudson 
thirty  miles  above  Glenn's  falls,  are  even  more  re- 
markable for  richness  and  beauty  than  those  of 
Lake  George  :  they  and  all  similar  sands  should 
be  examined  with  an  attentive  eye. 

Transparency  and  purity  of  the  Waters  of  Lake 
George* — The  fact  is  notorious  and  the  degree  in 
which  it  exists  is  most  remarkable  :  the  bottom 
and  the  fish  are  seen  at  a  great  depth  :  the  fisher- 
man who  rowed  us  asserted  that  they  could  at  par- 
ticular times  see  th*^  fish  at  the  depth  of  50  {eei  : 
if  even  half  this  statement  be  admitted,  it  is  suffi- 
ciently remarkable.  The  water  is  also  very  pure, 
salubrious  and  agreeable  to  the  taste.  It  is  well 
known  that  the  French  formerly  obtained  and  ex- 
ported this  water  for  religious  uses,  and  that  they 
called  the  lake  St.  Sacrament. 

The  cause  of  the  transparency  and  purity  of 
these  waters  is  obvious.  With  the  exception  of  small 
quantities  of  transition  limestone,  its  shores  as  far 
as  we  saw  them,  are  composed  of  primitive  rocks, 
made  up  principally  of  siliceous  and  other  very 
firm  and  insoluble  materials.  The  streams  by 
which  the  lake  is  fed,  flow  over  similar  substunces, 
and  the  waves  find  nothing  to  dissolve  or  to  hold 
mechanically  suspended.  Clay  which  abounds 
around  the  head  waters  oi  the  contiguous  lake 
(Champlain)  and  renders  them  turbid,  scarcely  ex- 


^, 


mstown, 
Hudson 

[Tiore  re- 

those  of 

should 

0/  Lake 
3gree  in 
}  bottom 
B  fisher- 
d  at  par- 
50  (eQt : 

is  suffi- 
;ry  pure, 
t  is  well 

and  ex- 
that  they 

purity  of 
1  ofsmail 
res  as  far 
/e  rocks, 
tier  very 
earns  by 
bstunces, 
r  to  hold 
abounds 
3US  lake 
rcely  ex- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  173 

ists  here.  It  is  remarkable,  however,  that  as  we 
approach  Lake  Champlain  in  the  vicinity  of  Ticon- 
deroga,  the  waters  of  Lake  George  become,  for  a 
few  miles  somewhat  turbid,  and  near  the  efflux  they 
are  very  much  so. 

Hcematite, — This  mineral  appears  to  abound  in 
the  primitive  mountains  around  Lake  George. 
They  informed  us  at  the  village  of  Caldwell,  that 
emery  had  been  discovered  down  the  lake  and  was 
used  considerably  for  polishing,  grinding,  &;c.  We 
obtained  some  of  this  mineral  from  a  promontory 
called  Anthony's  nose  (familiarly  called  by  the  boat- 
men Tony's  nose,)  a  few  miles  south  of  Ticondero- 
ga,  and  nearly  opposite  to  Rogers  Rock.  It  is  a 
handsome  and  very  well  characterized  hcematite  ; 
it  is  compact  lamellar,  fibrous,  mamillary,  botryoid- 
al,  he,  presenting  the  usual  appearances  of  this 
most  valuable  iron  ore,  which  seems  to  be  far  less 
common  in  the  United  States,  than  the  black  and 
brown  varieties.  The  colour  and  powder  of  this 
haematite  are  bright  red.  The  people  were  un- 
willing to  admit  that  it  was  not  emery,  since  it  pol- 
ishes and  grinds,  but  this  is  well  known  to  be  a 
property  of  hoematite  as  well  as  of  other  forms  of 
the  oxide  of  iron. 

The  hoematite  of  Lake  George  may  very  possi- 
bly answer  i'or  bloodstones^  so  much  used  in  polish- 
ing gilded  buttons,  &:c. 

Flesh  red  Feldspar  and  compact  Epidote, — These 
minerals  we  observed  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 


174    TOUR    BETVVKEN    HARTFORD    AND    qUEBEC 

George,  eight  miles  from  Ticonderoga.  The  feld- 
spar was  in  very  large  plates  in  granite,  and  the  epi- 
dote  in  loose  stones  :  the  epidote  was  of  a  very 
intense  yellow,  like  that  of  chrome,  but  with  a 
shade  of  green.  Other  minerals  of  more  common 
occurrence,  as  garnet  and  black  toiirrnHJine  were 
observed  here. 

Plumbago. —  This  mineral  of  singular  byauty  oc- 
curs near  Ticonderoga,  both  massive  and  dissemin- 
ated in  brilliant  plates,  in  a  large  grained  crystal- 
lized limestone.  It  has  been  mistaken  for  molyb- 
dena,  a  circumstance  which  a  few  years  ago  was 
common  in  this  country.  This  locality  we  did  not 
visit,  nor  the  celebrated  one  near  Rogers  Rock 
where  the  coccolite  is  found. 

Magnetic  Iron  of  Crown  Point* — We  were  not 
able  to  visit  this  place,  but  we  saw  them  working 
the  magnetic  iron  from  its  vicinity,  in  the  forges  of 
Ticonderoga.  The  iron  ore  is  both  rich  and  beau- 
tiful in  its  kind  ; — it  has  a  brilliant  black  colour, 
and  contains  a  yellowish  imbedded  mineral,  scarce- 
ly visible  without  a  glass  ;  it  resembles  coccolite 
hut  is  too  soft,  and  at  present  we  are  not  willing  to 
give  it  a  name. 

Mountains  of  Lake  George. — There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  t'  henever  they  are  thoroughly  explored 
they  will  abundantly  reward  the  geologist  and  min- 
eialogist.  We  however  saw  them  only  ns  pictur- 
esque objects  ;  as  such  they  are  certainly  very  fine. 
Particularly  as  we  proceed  north  from  the  Tongue 


rn.  The  fcld- 
e,  and  the  epi- 
as  of  a  very 
,  but  with  a 
Tiore  common 
irmaline  were 

liar  bc'-auty  oc- 
and  disjiemin- 
•ained  crystal - 
:en  for  molyb- 
years  ago  was 
ity  we  did  not 
Rogers   Rock 

We  were  not 
;hem  working 
1  the  forges  of 
rich  and  beau- 
black  colour, 
ineral,  scarce- 
bles  coccolite 
not  willing  to 

ere  can  be  no 
ighly  explored 
ogist  and  min- 
)]y  r\s  pictur- 
linly  very  fine, 
m  the  Tongue 


■!i 


t  !J 


TOOR  BETWEE.V  HAUTFOHD  AND  qUKBKC.  175 

Mountain,  which   is  twelve  miles  from   Caldwell. 
For  twenty  miles   beyond  this,  on  the  way  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  the  scenery  combines  in  an  uncommon 
degree,  both  richness  and  grandeur.     The  moun- 
tains are  all  primitive  :  they  form  a  double  barrier, 
between  which  the  lake,  scarcely  a  mile  wide,  but 
occasionally  expanding  into  large  bays,  winds   its 
way.     They  are  steep  and  precipitous  to  the  very 
water's  edge  :  they  are    still   clothed  with  grand 
trees,     and    possessed    by     wild    animals — deer, 
bears,  &c.     They  give  in   son-     places,  the  most 
distinct    and     astonishing    eciioes,  returning   ev- 
ery flexion  of  the  voice  with  the  most  faithful  re- 
sponse.    We  saw  them  hung  with  the  solemn  dra- 
pery of  thunder  clouds,  dashed  by  squalls  of  wind 
and  rain,  and  soon  after  decorated  with   rainbows, 
whose  arches  did  not  surpass  the  mountain  ridges, 
while  they  terminated  in  the  lake  and  attended  our 
little  skiff  for  many  miles.     The   setting  sun  also 
gilded  the  mountains  atjd   the  clouds  that  hovered 
over   them  and   the    little   islands,  which  in   great 
numbers    rise    out   of  the  lake  and   present  green 
patches  of  shrubbery  and  trees,  apparently  spring- 
ing from  th  J  wator,  and  often   resembling,  by  their 
minuteness  and  delicacy,  the  clumps  of  a  park,  or 
even  the  artificial  groups  of  a  green  house.     Fine 
a?  is  the  scenery  at  the   southern  end  of  the   lake 
and  in  all  the  wider  part  of  it,  within   the  compass 
of  the  first  twelve  miles  from  fort  George — its  gran- 
deur is  much   augn^anted,   after  passing  Tongue 


I  '•» 


c.\ 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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33  WIST  MAM  STRlIt 

WIUTIR.N.Y.  )4StO 

(7U)  •73-4S03 


I/. 


176    TOUR    BKTWEKN    HARTFORD    AND    QULBLi:* 

Mountain  and  entering  the  narrow  part  where  the 
mountains  close  in  upon  you  on  both  sides,  and  pre-  . 
sent  an  endless  diversity  of  grand  and  beautiful 
scenery.  It  is  a  pleasing  reflection,  that  even  after 
this  part  of  the  United  States,  shall  have  become  as 
populous  as  England  or  Holland,  this  lake  will  still 
retain  the  fine  peculiarities  of  its  scenery,  for  they 
are  too  bold,  too  wild,  and  too  untractable,  ever  to 
be  materially  softened  and  spoiled  by  the  hand  of 
man*  Deer  arc  still  hunted  with  success  upon  the 
borders  of  this  lake.  The  hounds  drive  them  from 
the  recesses  of  the  mountains,  when  they  take  re- 
fuge in  the  water,  and  the  huntsmen  easily  overtak- 
ing in  an  element  not  their  own,  seize  them  by 
the  horns,  knock  them  on  the  head,  and  drag^^^ing 
their  necks  over  the  side  of  the  boat,  cut  their 
throats. 

There  is  a  celebrated  mountain  about  fourteen 
miles  from  Ticonderoga,  called  the  Buck  moun- 
tain, from  the  fact  that  a  buck,  pursued  by  the  dogs 
leaped  from  its  summit  over-hanging  the  lake  in 
the  form  of  a  precipice,  and  was  literally  impaled 
alive  upon  a  sharp  pointed  tree  which  projected  be- 
low.* 

•  This  circumstance  was  mentioned  to  me  by  the  man  whose 
Jogs  drove  the  buck  to  this  desperate  extremity.  He  stated  that 
he  had  scmetimtt  taken  forty  deer  in  a  season. 


■,V|| 


i^i  .1 


e, 
le 

i  u 
Ihe 


»rhere  the 
and  pre-  . 
beautiful 
even  after 
}ecome  as 
will  still 
for  they 
ever  to 
hand  of 
ipon  the 
•Ti  from 
Y  take  re- 
y  overtak- 
j  them  by 
1  drag(/ing 
cut  their 

t  fourteen 
ick  moun- 
•y  the  dogs 
he  lake  in 
\y  impaled 
►jected  be- 


p  man  vrhote 
e  itateU  that 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  177 

BATTLE  NEAR  FORT  ANNE. 

Leaving  Fort  Anne  we  crossed  Wood  Creek, 
and  our  journey  to  Whitehall  was  almost  constant- 
ly along  its  banks,  or  very  near  them. 

At  a  narrow  pass  between  some  high  rocks  and 
the  river,  we  were  shown  the  place  where,  on  the 
8th  of  July,  1777,  the  9th  British  regiment,  belong- 
ing to  General  Burgoyne's  army,  sustained  a  hea- 
vy loss,  by  a  conflict  with  the  Americans  under  Co- 
lonel Long. 

After  the  surrender  of  Ticonderoga,  General 
Burgoyne  endeavoured  to  keep  up  the  alarm,  by 
spreading  his  parties  over  the  country.  With  this 
view,  Colonel  Hill,  at  the  head  of  the  9th  regiment, 
was  dispatched  after  Colonel  Long,  who,  with  four 
or  five  hundred  men,  principally  the  invalids  and 
convalescents  of  the  army,  had  taken  post  at  Fort 
Anne,  and  was  directed  by  General  Schuyler  to  de- 
fend it.  Colonel  Long,  with  his  party,  did  not  wait 
an  attack  from  the  enemy,  but  boldly  advanced  to 
meet  them.  "At  half  past  ten  in  the  morning,  (says 
Major  Forbes,*  of  the  British  regiment,)  they  at- 
tacked us  in  front,  with  a  heavy  and  well  directed 
fire  ;  a  large  body  of  thom  passed  the  creek  on  the 
left,  and  fired  from  a  thick  wood  across  the  creek 
on  the  left  flank  of  the  regiment  :  they  then  began 
to  recross  the  creek  and  attack  us  in  the  rear;  we 

*  Burgoyae's  state  of  th«  Expedition,  fee. 

16 


i 


^ 


a! 


. ♦ 


178   TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND     QUEBEC 


t  . 


then  found  it  necessary  to  change  our  ground,  to 
prevent  the  regiment's  being  surrounded  ;  we  took 
post  on  the  top  of  a  hill  to  our  right.  As  soon  as 
we  had  taken  post,  the  enemy  made  a  very  vigo- 
rous attack,  which  continued  for  upwards  of  two 
hours  ;  and  they  certainly  would  have  forced  us,  had 
it  not  been  for  some  Indians  that  arrived  and  gave 
the  Indian  whoop,  which  we  answered  with  three 
cheers  ;  the  rebels  soon  after  that  gave  away." — 
The  giving  way  of  the  Americans  was,  however, 
caused,  not  by  the  terror  of  the  war  whoop,  but  by 
the  failure  of  their  ammunition.  The  fact  wa?,  the 
British  regiment  was  worsted,  and  would  probably 
have  been  taken  or  destroyed,  had  Colonel  Long 
been  well  supplied  with  ammunition.  It  was  said 
by  Captain  Money,  another  British  officer,  that  the 
fire  was  even  heavier  than  it  was  in  the  obstinate 
battle  of  September  19th,  on  Bemus'  heights.  The 
scene  of  this  battle  is  very  correctly  described 
above,  by  Major  Forbes. 

On  leaving  the  street  of  Fort  Anne  village,  we 
crossed  a  bridge  over  Wood  Creek,  and  were  now 
on  its  left  bank.  Immediately  after,  we  came  to  a 
narrow  pass,  only  wide  enough  for  the  carriage,  and 
cut,  in  a  great  measure,  out  of  a  rocky  ledge,  which 
terminates  here,  exactly  at  the  creek.  This  ledge 
is  the  southern  end  of  a  hijjii  rocky  hill,  which  con- 
verges toward  Wood  Creek,  and  between  the  two 
is  a  narrow  tract  of  level  ground,  which  terminates 
at  the  pass  already  mentioned.     On  this  ground  the 


gn( 


i    I 


.»      ♦ 


EBEC« 

round,  to 
we  took 
s  soon  as 
ery  vigo- 
is   of  two 
:edus,had 
{  and  gave 
with  three 
away." — 
however, 
lop,  but  by 
ct  was,  the 
1  probably 
onel  Long 
It  was  said 
er,  that  the 
e  obstinate 
ights.  The 
described 

village,  we 
were  now 
3  came  to  a 
)rriagc,  and 
edge,  which 
This  ledge 
,  which  con- 
cen  the  two 
'w  terminates 
3  ground  the 


TOHR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  171) 

battle  took  place,  and  the  wood  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  creek,  from  which  the  Americans  tired  upon  the 
left  flank  of  the  British,  is  still  there,  and  it  was  up 
this  rocky  hill  that  they  retreated,  and  took  their 
stand. 

General  Burgoyne,  as  usual,  claimed  a  victory  in 
this  affair,  which  is  understood  to  have  been  a 
bloody  contest,  as  indeed  it  obviously  must  have 
been,  from  the  narrowness  of  the  defile,  and  the 
consequent  nearness  of  the  contending  parties. — 
Captain  Montgomery,  of  Colonel  Hill's  regiment, 
was  left  wounded  on  the  field,  and  taken  prisoner 
by  the  Americans,  which  could  not  have  been  the 
fact,  had  the  Royal  party  been  victorious. 

Immediately  after  leaving  this  battle  ground,  we 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  canal,  which  is  to  con- 
nect the  Hudson  with  Lake  Champlain.  Being  al- 
most constantly  in  sight  of  it,  and  very  often  as  near 
it  as  possible,  we  were  seriously  incommoded  by 
deep  gullies,  and  heaps  of  miry  clay,  thrown  out  by 
the  canal  diggers,  through  which  we  were  compel- 
led to  drag  our  way  ;  and  when  we  were  not  in  the 
mud,  we  found  a  road  excessively  rough  and  uncom- 
fortable, from  the  utiited  cfiect  of  much  rain  and 
much  travelling,  with  occasional  hot  sunshine,  in  a 
country  whose  basis  is  a  stiff  clay.  We  rode  almost 
constantly  in  sight  of  Wood  Creek,  as  well  as  of  the 
canal. 

The  rocks  on  our  ride  were  immense  strata  of 
gneiss,  often  so  full  of  garnets  that  the  ledges  ap- 


f» 


^1 


/ 


lUO    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AM>    CtUEBEV* 

peared,  at  a  great  distance,  spotted  with  red  and 
brown.  These  primitive  hills  have  every  appear- 
ance of  being  continued,  uninterruptedly,  to  Lake 
George,  and  it  is  evident  that  its  eastern  barrier 
must  be  primitive. 

After  a  very  fatiguing  journey  from  Fort  Anne, 
several  miles  of  which  I  walked,  we  arrived  safely 
at  Whitehall,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  lit- 
tle before  night. 

I  am  told  there  are,  on  parts  of  the  road  from 
Fort  Edward,  remains  of  the  causeway,  which  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  with  so  much  labor,  constructed 
for  the  passage  of  his  army ;  but  I  did  not  see 
them.*  Jt  will  be  remembered,  that  his  route 
was  from  Skeensborough  (now  Whitehall,)  to  Fort 
Edward. 


WHITEHALL— THE  CANAL. 

The  canal  terminates  twenty-two  miles  from  Fort 
Edward,  at  Whitehall,  where  they  are  now  con- 

*  On  a  subsequent  journey,  two  years  after,  from  Whitehall 
to  Sandy  Hill,  I  saw  this  road  in  many  place?;  for  several  miles, 
it  was  almost constanlly  in  view,  anil  in  a  few  places  we  travelled 
on  it.  It  was  composed  of  timber  laid  very  compactly — the  logs 
and  smaller  sticks  being  nearly  or  quite  in  contact ;  and  when  it 
it  considered  that  it  was  nut  through  a  thick  forest,  most  of  which 
was  a  deep  morass,  and  that  the  pioneers  were  constantly  expos- 
cd  to  our  sharp  shooters,  it  implies  great  enersry  on  the  part  of  the 
royal  army.  In  many  places,  it  is  still  in  pretty  good  preservH- 
tion.— 1824. 


■•**H^— ' 


IBE^-. 


TOUR  HETWECN  HARTFORD  AND  qUCBEC.  181 


red  and 
y  appear- 
to  Lake 
11  barrier 

ort  Anne, 
'^ed  safely 
ain,  a  lit- 

oad  from 
ilch  Gen- 
nstructed 
not  see 
lis  route 
,)  to  Fort 


Vom  Fort 

low  con- 
Whitehall 
reral  miles, 
e  travellrJ 
r — the  log? 
nd  when  it 
't  of  which 
itiy  expos- 
part  of  the 
I  preset v:«- 


structing  a  lock,  with  handsome  massy  hewn  stone. 
There  is  a  considerable  descent  to  the  surface  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  Wood  Creek,  whose  mouth 
and  that  of  the  canal  are  side  by  side,  here  rushes 
down  a  considerable  rapid  with  some  grandeur. 
This  is  the  place  formerly  called  the  falls  of  Wood 
Creek,  at  Skeensborough. 

As  Wood  Creek  is  really  a  river,  navigable  by 
larger  boats  than  those  which  will  probably  pass  oq 
the  canal,  and  as  the  canal  and  river  from  Fort 
Anne,  a  distance  of  about  ten  or  eleven  miles,  are 
often  close  together,  so  that  a  stone  might  be  thrown 
from  the  one  to  the  other,  a  traveller  naturally  in- 
quires why  the  larger  natural  canal  should,  with  vast 
expense,  be  deserted  for  the  smaller  artificial  one. 
The  answer  will  probably  be  founded  upon  the 
shortening  of  distance,  by  avoiding  the  numerous 
windings  of  the  creek — the  obtaining  of  a  better 
horse  road  for  dragging  the  boats — security  from 
the  effects  of  floods  and  drought,  in  altering  the 
quantity  of  water — and  the  securing  of  a  more  ad- 
equate supply  of  water  for  that  part  of  the  route 
between  Fort  Anne  and  the  Hudson ;  in  either 
case,  there  must  be  locks  at  Whitehall.* 

*The  immense  utility  of  this  canal  is  already  sutHoiently 
obvious  in  the  vast  quantities  of  lumber  and  other  commodities 
which  now  find  their  way  into  the  Hudsoo.-i— March,  1824. 

16* 


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182  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

t 

WHITEHALL  PORT. 

This  is  a  well  built,  and  apparently  thriving  little 
place,  situated  on  both  branches  of  the  muddy 
Wood  Creek,  which,  on  its  way  to  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  sluggishly  flows  through  the  village, 
till  it  makes  its  escape  into  Lake  Champlain ;  it 
then  tumbles  down  a  steep  declivity,  over  a  bed  of 
rocks,  and  foams,  and  roars,  as  if  in  exultation,  at 
making  its  escape  from  its  own  Lethean  chan- 
nel. 

Whitehall,  anciently  called  Skcensborough,  was 
famous  in  General  Burgoyne's  campaign.  Here  he 
destroyed  the  little  American  flotilla,  in  July,  1777, 
and  the  baggage  and  stores  of  the  American  army  ; 
and  here  he  had  his  head  quarters  for  some  time, 
while  preparing  to  pass  his  army  and  heavy  artil- 
lery over  land  to  Fort  Edward. 

Whitehall  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  narrow 
defile  in  the  mountain?,  and  has  the  bustle  and 
crowded  aspect  of  a  porf,  without  the  quiet  and 
cleanliness  of  a  village.  Some  of  the  houses  are 
situated  on  elevations  and  declivities,  and  some  in 
the  bottom  of  the  vale — some  are  of  wood,  and 
others  of  brick,  but  I  was  gratified  to  see  many  of 
them  handsomely  constructed  of  stone — of  the  fine 
gneiss  rock  which  abounds  here — the  (wo  parts 
of  the  town  are  connected  by  a  bridge  over  Wood 
Creek.  The  population  of  this  town  is  between 
two  and  three  thousand,  and  the  village  contains  a 


V 

St 


«A 


EBEC, 


^ing  little 
muddy 
ulf  of  St. 
5  village, 
iplain;  it 
a  bed  of 
ation,  at 
in  chan- 

ugh,  was 
Here  he 
ly,  1777, 
»  army ; 
ne  time, 
ivy  artil- 

i  narrow 
stIc  and 
uiet  and 
uses  are 
some  in 
od,  and 
nany  of 
the  fine 
o  parts 
rWood 
etween 
tains  a 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  183 

Presbyterian  meeting-house,  four  ware-houses,  ten 
stores,  and  more  than  an  hundred  dwelling-houses.* 

The  fever  and  ague  is  now  very  prevalent  here, 
and  many  sallow  faces,  and  feeble  frames,  are  to  be 
seen  about  the  streets. 

The  country,  both  up  Wood  Creek,  and  down 
the  lake  contiguous  to  the  town,  looks  as  if  it  might 
nourish  fever  and  ague,  but  the  inhabitants  deny 
that  it  is  their  inheritance,  and  profess  to  consider 
the  visitation  of  this  summer  as  fortuitous.  I  am 
afraid  that  their  canal,  with  its  stagnant  waters,  will 
not  help  them  to  more  health.  A  thick  fog  prevail- 
ed here,  most  of  the  time  that  we  were  in  the  place, 
and  rendered  it  uncomfortable  to  move  out  of 
doors  till  the  middle  of  the  forenoon,  when  it  blew 
away. 

This  will  probably  become  a  considerable  place, 
situated  as  it  is,  at  the  head  of  the  lake  navigation, 
and  at  the  point  of  communication,  between  the 
Hudson  and  Lake  Champlain.  It  derived  some 
ophomeral  importance,  from  the  local  navy  main- 
tained on  the  lake,  in  time  of  war ;  thrrc  is  a  small 
naval  arsenal  here,  and  at  present  there  are  a  few 
naval  officers  and  men  at  this  station. 


THE  OLD  MAN  OF  THE  AGE  OF  LOUIS  XIV. 

Two  miles  from  Whitehall,  on  the  Salem  road  to 
Alba  ny,  lives  Henry  Francisco,  a  native  of  France, 

"'VVorcefter's  Gazetteer. 


♦ 


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i 


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184   TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  QUEUEC. 


V  i' 


\   \i 


* 


and  of  a  place  which  he  pronounced  Essex ;  but 
doubtless  this  is  not  the  orthography,  and  the  place 
was,  probably,  some  obscure  village,  which  may 
not  be  noted  in  maps  and  gazetteers. 

Having  a  few  hours  to  spare,  before  the  depar- 
ture of  the  steam-boat  for  St.  John^s,  in  Canada, 
we  rode  out  to  see  (probably,)  the  oldest  man  in 
America.  He  believes  himself  to  be  one  hundred 
and  thirty-four  years  old,  and  the  country  around 
believe  him  to  be  of  this  great  age.  When  we  ar- 
rived at  his  residence,  (a  plain  farmer^s  house,  not 
painted,  rather  out  of  repair,  and  much  open  to  the 
wind,)  he  was  up  stairs,  at  his  daily  work,  of  spool- 
ing and  winding  yarn.  This  occupation  is  auxiliary 
to  that  of  his  wife,  who  is  a  weaver,  and  although 
more  than  eighty  years  old,  weaves  six  yards 
a  day,  and  the  old  man  can  supply  her  with 
more  yarn  than  she  can  weave.  Supposing  he  must 
be  very  feeble,  we  offered  to  go  up  stairs  to  him ; 
but  he  soon  came  down,  walking  somewhat  stoop- 
ing, and  supported  by  a  staff,  but  with  less  apparent 
inconvenience,  than  most  persons  exhibit  at  eighty- 
five  or  ninety.  His  stature  is  of  the  middle  size,  and 
although  his  person  is  rather  delicate  and  slender, 
he  stoops  but  little,  even  when  unsupported.  His 
complexion  is  very  fair  and  delicate,  and  his  expres- 
sion bright,  cheerful,  and  intelligent ;  his  features  are 
handsome,  and  considering  that  they  have  endured 
through  one  third  part  of  a  second  century,  they 
are  regular,  comely,  and,  wonderfully  undisfigured 


n 


M 


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i^  ■■-mm  «*     ii»*»i 


*-     1;; 


JEC. 

sttx  f  but 
he  place 
lich  may 

le  depar- 
Canada, 
:  man  in 
hundred 
Y  around 
n  we  ar- 
ouse, not 
;n  to  the 
of  spool- 
luxiliarj 
although 
X  yards 
ler  with 
he  must 
to  him ; 
it  stoop- 
pparent 
eighty- 
size,  and 
slender, 
d.     His 
expres- 
Lires  are 
sndured 
y,  they 
(figured 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    185 

by  the  hand  of  time  ;  his  eyes  are  of  a  lively  blue  ; 
his  profile  is  Grecian,  and  very  tiae  ;  his  head  is 
completely  covered  with  the  most  beautiful  and  deli- 
cate white  locks  imaginable;  (hey  are  so  long  and 
abundant  as  to  fall  gracefully  from  the  crown  of  his 
head,  parting  regularly  from  a  central  point,  and 
reaching  down  to  his  shoulders  ;  his  hair  is  perfect- 
ly snow  white,  ecxcpt  where  it  is  thick  in  his  neck; 
when  parted  there,  it  shows  some  few  dark  sliadesi 
the  remnants  of  a  former  century. 

He  still  retains  the  front  teeth  of  his  upper  jaw  : 
his  mouth  is  not  fallen  in,  like  that  of  old  people 
generally,  and  his  lips,  particularly,  are  like  those  of 
middle  life  ;  his  voice  is  strong  and  sweet  toned, 
although  a  little  tremulous  ;  his  hearing  very  little 
impaired,  so  that  a  voice  of  usual  strength,  with  dis- 
tinct articulation,  enables  him  to  understand;  his  eye- 
sight is  sufficient  for  his  work,  and  he  distinguishes 
large  print,  such  as  the  title  page  of  the  Bible,  with- 
out glasses  ;  his  health  is  good,  and  has  always 
been  so,  except  that  he  has  now  a  cough  and  ex- 
pectoration. 

He  informed  us,  that  his  father,  driven  out  of 
France,  by  religious  persecution,  fled  to  Amster- 
dam ;  by  his  account,  it  must  have  been  in  conse- 
quence of  the  persecutions  of  the  French  protestants, 
or  Hugonots,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  reign  of  Louis 
XIV.  At  Amste  rdam,  his  father  married  his  moth- 
er, a  Dutch  woman,  five  years  before  he  was  born, 
and,  before  that  event,  returned  with    her,   into 


f 


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3»»-   '-^ 


f  .^ 


if^ 


186     TOUR   BETWEKN    HARTFORD    AND    (iVEBEC. 

France.  When  he  was  five  years  old,  his  father 
again  fled  on  account  of  "  de  religion,*?  as  he 
expressed  it,  (for  his  language,  although  very  intel- 
ligible English,  is  marked  by  French  peculiarities.) 
He  says,  he  well  remembers  their  flight,  and  that  it 
was  in  the  winter ;  for,  he  recollects,  that  as  they 
were  descending  a  hill,  which  was  covered  with 
snow,  he  cried  out  to  his  father.  '*  O  fader,  do  go 
back  and  get  my  little  carriole,'* — (a  little  boy's 
gliding  sledge  or  sleigh.) 

From  these  dates  we  are  enabled  to  fix  the  time  of 
his  birth,  provided  he  is  correct  in  the  main  fact,  for 
he  says  he  was  present  at  Queen  Anne's  coronation, 
and  was  then  sixteen  years  old,  the  31st  day  of  May, 
old  style.  His  father,  (as  he  asserts,)  after  his  re- 
turn from  Holland,  had  again  been  driven  from 
France,  by  persecution,  and  the  second  time  took 
refuge  in  Holland,  and  afterwards  in  England 
where  he  resided,  with  his  family,  at  the  time  of  the 
coronation  of  Queen  Anne,  in  1 702.  This  makes 
Francisco  to  have  been  born  in  1686  *,  to  have  been 
expelled  from  France  in  1691 ,  and  therefore,  to  have 
completed  his  hundred  and  thirty-third  year  on  the 
eleventh  of  last  June  ;  of  course,  he  is  now  more 
than  three  months  advanced  in  his  hundred  and 
thirty-fourth  year.  It  is  notorious,  that  about  this 
time  multitudes  of  French  protestants  fled,  on  ac- 
count of  the  persecutions  of  Louis  XIV,  resulting 
from  the  revocation  of  the  e^lict  of  Nantz.  which  oc- 
curred October  12,  1685,  and,  uotwith&ianding  the 


f-  i. 


JEBEC. 

his  father 
,*?  as  he 
ery  intel- 
iliarities.) 
ind  that  it 
t  as  they 
3red  with 
er,  do  go 
tie  boy's 

lie  time  of 
n  fact,  for 
)ronation, 
lyofMay, 
ir  his  re- 
ren  from 
time  took 
England 
me  of  the 
lis  makes 
ave  been 
},  to  have 
ar  on  the 
3w  more 
Ired  and 
)out  this 
d,  on  ac- 
res n  I  ting 
hichoc- 
diug  the 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   q,VEBKC,    187 

guards  upon  the  frontiers,  and  other  measures  of 
precaution,  or  rigor,  to  prevent  emigration,  it  is  well 
known,  that  for  years,  multitudes  continued  to  make 
their  escape,  and  that  thus  Louis  lost  six  hundred 
thousand  of  his  best  and  most  useful  subjects.  I 
asked  Francisco,  if  he  saw  Queen  Anne  crowned ; 
he  replied,  with  great  animation,  and  with  an  ele- 
vated voice,  "  Ah  !  dat  I  did,  and  a  fine  looking  wo- 
man she  was  too,  as  any  dat  you  will  see  now  a- 
days."* 

He  said  he  fought  in  all  Queen  Anne's  wars, 
and  was  at  many  battles,  and  under  many  command- 
ers, but  his  memory  fails,  and  he  cannot  remember 
their  names,  except  the  Duke  of  Marlborough,  who 
was  one  of  them. 

He  has  been  much  cut  up  by  wounds,  which  he 
showed  us,  but  cannot  always  give  a  very  distinct 
account  of  his  warfare. 

He  came  out,  with  his  father,  from  England,  to 
New-York,  probably  early  in  the  last  century,  but 
cannot  remember  the  date. 

He  said,  pathetically,  when  pressed  for  accounts 
of  his  military  experience,  "0,  1  was  in  all  Queen 
Anne's  wars  ;  I  was  at  Niagara,  at  Oswego,  on  the 
Ohio,  (in  Braddock's  defeat,  in  1755,  where  he  was 
wounded.)  1  was  carried  prisoner  to  Quebec,  (in 
the  revolutionary  war,  when  he  must  have  been  at 

*  Fnr  an  unlettered  man,  he  has  very  few  gallit  peculiaritis, 
and  those  the  common  ones,  such  as  d  for  tb,  &c. 


!^.- 


4 


'   * 


<i 


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f  #' 


M 


/         ! 


188  TOUR  BBTWEEI'  HARTfOAD  AND  QUEBEC. 

least  ninety  years  old.)  I  fight  in  all  sorts  of  wars, 
all  my  life  ;  I  see  dreadful  trouble ;  and  den  to  have 
dem,  we  tought  our  friends,  turn  tories  ;  and  the 
British  too,  and  fight  against  ourselves,  O,  dat  was 
de  worst  of  all." 

He  here  seemed  much  afiected,  and  almost  too 
full  for  utterance.  It  seems,  that,  during  the  revo- 
lutionary war,  he  kept  a  tavern  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
he  lamente  J,  in  a  very  animated  manner,  that  the 
tories  burnt  his  house,  and  barn,  and  four  hundred 
bushels  of  grain  ;  this,  his  wife  said,  was  the  same 
year  that  Miss  M'Crea  was  murdered. 

He  has  had  two  wives,  and  twenty-one  children  ; 
the  youngest  child  is  the  daughter,  in  whose  house 
he  now  lives,  and  she  is  fifty-two  years  old  ;  of 
course,  he  was  eiphty-two  when  she  was  born;  they 
suppose  several  of  the  older  children  are  still  living, 
at  a  very  advanced  age,  beyond  the  Ohio,  but  they 
have  not  heard  of  them  for  several  years.  The  fam- 
ily were  neighbors  to  the  family  of  Miss  M'Crea, 
and  were  acquainted  with  the  circumstances  of  her 
tragical  death. 

They  said,  that  the  lover,  Mr.  Jones,  at  first,  vow- 
ed vengeance  against  the  Indians,  but  on  counting 
the  cost,  wisely  gave  it  up. 

Henry  Francisco  has  been,  all  his  life,  a  very  ac- 
tive and  energetic,  although  not  a  stout  framed  man. 
He  was  formerly  fond  of  spirits,  and  did,  for  a  cer- 
tain period,  drink  more  than  was  pr./,ier,  but  that 
habit  appears  to  have  been  long  abandoned. 


~», 


TOUR    BETWEEN    IIARTFOllD    ANI9    QUEBEC.     189 

In  other  respects,  he  has  been  remarkably  ab- 
stemious, eating  but  little,  and  particularly,  abstain- 
ing, almost  entirely,  from  animal  food  ;  his  favour- 
ite articles  being  tea,  bread  and  butter,  and  baked 
apples.  His  wife  said,  that,  after  such  a  breakfast, 
he  would  go  out  and  work  till  noon  ;  then  dine  up- 
on the  same,  if  he  could  get  it,  and  then  take  the 
same  at  night,  and  particularly,  that  he  always  drank 
tea,  whenever  he  could  obtain  it,  three  cups  at  a 
lime,  three  times  a  day. 

The  old  man  manifested  a  great  deal  of  feeling, 
and  even  of  tenderness,  which    increased,  as  we 
treated  him  with  respect  and  kindness  ;  he  often 
i^hed  tears,  and  particularly,  when,  on  coming  away, 
we  gave  him  money;  he  looked  up  to  heaven,  and 
fervently  thankedGod^  but  did  not  thank u- ;  he  how- 
everpressed  ourhands  very  warmly,  wept,  and  wish- 
ed us  every  blessing,  and  expressed  something  seri- 
ous with  respect  to  our  meeting  in  another  world.  He 
appeared  to  have  religious  impressions  on  his  mind, 
notwithstanding  his  pretty  frequent  exclamations, 
when  animated,  of  Good  Cod!  O,  my  God!  which 
appeared,  however,  not  to  be  used  in  levity,  and 
were  probably  acquired  in  childhood,  from  the  al- 
most colloquial  "MonDieu,"  &c.  ofthe  French. 
The  oldest  people  in  the  vicinity,  remember  Fran- 
cisco, as  being  always,  from  their  earliest  recollec- 
tion, much  older  than  themselves;  and  a  Mr.  Fuller, 
who  recently  died  hcr^,  between  eighty  and  oinetj 

It 


U' 


-*♦'  ' 


•  n 


i  wi 


». 


i : 


> 


190  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

years  of  age,  thought  Francisco  was  one  hundred 
and  forty. 

On  the  whole,  although  the  evidence  rests,  in  a 
degree,  on  its  own  credibility,  still,  as  many  things 
corroborate  it,  and  as  his  character  appears  remark- 
ably sincere,  guileless, and  affectionate,  I  am  inclin- 
ned  to  believe,  that  he  is  as  old  as  he  is  stated  to 
be.  He  is  really  a  most  remarkable  and  interest- 
ing old  man  ;  there  is  nothing,  either  in  its  person 
or  dress,  of  the  negligence  and  squalidness  of  ex- 
treme age,  especially  when  not  in  elevated  circum- 
stances; on  the  contrary,  he  is  agreeable  and  attrac- 
tive, and  were  he  dressed  in  a  superior  manner,  and 
placed  in  a  handsome  and  well  furnished  apartment, 
he  would  be  a  most  beautiful  old  man. 

Little  could  I  have  expected  to  converse,  and 
shake  hands  with  a  man,  who  has  been  a  soldier  in 
most  of  the  wars  of  this  country  for  one  hundred 
years — who,  more  than  a  century  ago,  fought  under 
Marlborough,  in  the  wars  of  Queen  Anne,  and  who, 
(already  grown  up  to  manhood,)  saw  her  crowned 
one  hundred  and  seventeen  years  since  f  who,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  years  ago,  and  in  the 
century  before  the  /«*•/,  was  driven  from  France,  by 
the  proud,  magnificent,  and  intolerant  Loui>  XIV, 
and  who  has  lived  a  forty -four  ih  part  of  all  the  tinu 
that  the  human  race  have  occupied  this  globe  ! 

What  an  interview  !  It  is  like  seeing  one  come 
back  from  the  dead,  to  relate  the  events  of  centu- 
ries, now  swallowed  up  in  the  abyss  of  time  !     Ex- 


,,>■ 


V 


EBEC. 

le  hundred 

rests,  in  a 
any  things 
irs  remark- 
am  inclin- 
s  stated  to 
interest- 
I  its  person 
ness  of  ex- 
,ed  circum- 
and  attrac- 
lanner,  and 
apartment, 

iverse,  and 
a  soldier  in 
ne  hundred 
)ught  under 
e,  and  who, 
er  crowned 
;  who,  one 
and  in  the 
France,  by 
uou'xt'  XIV, 
''  all  the  tinu 
lobe  ! 

ig  one  come 
ts  of  centu- 
time !    £x- 


TOTTR    BETWEEN    HARTFOBD    AND    ^UEREC.    191 

cept  his  cough,  which,  they  told  us,  had  not  been  of 
long  standing,  we  saw  nothing  in  Francisco's  ap- 
pearance, that  might  indicate  a  speedy  dissolution, 
and  he  seemed  to  have  sufficient  mental  and  bodily 
powers,  to  endure  for  years  yet  to  come.'^ 


PASSAGE  DOWN  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 

The  carriage  and  horses  were  received  on  board 
ihe  steam-boat  at  Whitehall,  an  accommodation 
which  we  had  not  expected  ;  and  thus  we  avoided 
the  inconvenience,  of  having  them  go  around  by 
land,  to  Burlington  in  Vermont,  to  wait  our  return 
from  Canada.  The  steam-boat  lay  in  a  wild  glen, 
immediately  under  a  high,  precipitous,  rocky  hill, 
and  not  far  from  the  roaring  outlet  of  Wood  Creek  ; 
we  almost  drop  down  upon  the  port,  all  on  a  sud- 
den, and  it  strikes  one  like  an  interesting  discovery, 
in  a  country,  so  wild,  and  so  far  inland,  as  to  present, 
in  other  respects,  no  nautical  images  or  realities. 

We  left  Whitehall  between  two  and  three  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  in  the  Congress,  a  neat  and  rapid 
boat,  and  the  only  ono  romninins  on  the  lake,  since 
the  late  awful  catastrophe  of  the  Phoenix. 

The  lake,  for  many  miles,  after  it  receives  Wood 
Creek,  is,  in  fact,  nothing  more,  than  a  narrow  slug- 
gish river,  passing,  without  apparent  motion,  among 
high,  rocky,  and  even  mountainous  ridges,  between 

*  Fie  difld  the  year  after,  of  the  fever  and  ag;ue.     Iti24 


192  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBLC. 

whose  feet  and  the  lake,  there  is,  generally,  a  con- 
siderable extent  of  low,  wet,  marshy  ground,  of  a 
most  unpromising  appearance,  for  any  purpose,  but 
to  produce  fever  and  ague,  unless  by  and  by,  it 
should  by  dykeing  and  ditching,  be  rescued,  like 
Holland,  from  the  dominion  of  the  water,  and  con- 
certed to  the  purposes  of  agriculture. 

The  channel,  through  which  we  passed,  is,  for 
miles,  so  narrow,  that  the  steam-boat  could  scarcely 
put  about  in  it,  and  there  seemed  hardly  room  for 
the  passage  of  the  little  sloops,  which  we  frequently 
met  going  up  to  Whitehall.  At  the  very  head  of  this 
natural  canal,  lie  moored,  to  the  bank,  stem  and 
stern,  the  flotillas*  of  McDonough  and  Downie, 
now,  by  the  catastrophe  of  battle,  united  into  one. 

As  we  passed  rapidly  by,  a  few  seamen  showed 
their  heads  through  the  grim  port-holes,  from  which, 
five  years  ago,  the  cannon  poured  fire  and  death, 
and  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  decks,  that  were 

*  It  was  a  great  piece  of  self-denial  to  me,  not  to  go  on  board 
of  this  flotilla,  but,  (a  circumstance  >\hich  I  should  not  otherwise 
mention,)  I  was,  all  the  time  we  were  at  Whitehall,  and  indeed 
all  (he  way  to  Montreal,  in  a  state  of  sever*  sufforing.  IVom  «a 
«gu^.luu.J  fi^wv  ouu  tieau,  wnicu  obliged  me  to  avoid  the  damp 
air,  and  the  damp  meadows,  where  the  flotilla  lay,  moored  to  the 
natural  baBk  of  the  creek.'" 

» 

*  When  1  passed  this  place  in  June  1821,  these  vessels  were  ly- 
B^  a  little  way  down  the  lake,  mere  wreck*,  sunken,  neglected 
and  in  ruins— scarcely  seven  years  from  the  time  of  the  fjorco 
contention,  by  which  they  were  lost  and  won.    (1824. 


'ih 


I 


JLC. 

y,  a  con- 
jnd,  of  a 
30se,  but 
id  by,  it 
ued,  like 
ind  con- 

J,  is,  for 
I  scarcely 
room  for 
equently 
ad  of  this 
tern  and 
Downie, 
into  one. 
showed 
m  which, 
i  death, 
lat  were 

on  board 
otherwise 
ml  indeed 
IVom  na 
the  damp 
ed  to  the 


wpre  ly- 

neglected 

le  fioroo 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  193 

then  covered  with  the  mutilated  and  the  slain,  and 
deluged  with  their  generous  blood. 

Sparless,  black  and  frowning,  these  now  disman- 
tled ships,  look  like  the  coffins  of  the  brave,  and 
will  remain,  as  long  as  worms  and  rot  will  allow 
them,  sad  monuments  of  the  bloody  conflict. 

Our  passage  down  the  lake  presented  nothing 
particularly  interesting,  except  the  grandeur  of  the 
double  barrier  of  mountains,  which,  although  much 
inferior  in  height  to  those  of  Lake  George,  are  still 
very  bold  and  commanding. 

It  seems  as  if  the  lake  had  been  poured  into  the 
only  natural  basin,  of  magnitude,  which  exists  in 
this  mountainous  region,  and  as  if  its  boundaries 
were  irrevocably  fixed,  by  the  impassable  barriers 
of  rocks  and  alpine  land. 

The  mountains,  particularly  on  the  eastern  side, 
presenting  to  the  eye  their  na4ced  precipitous  cliflTs, 
composed  of  the  edges  of  the  strata,  were  gneiss 
at  Whitehall,  and  limestone  as  we  proceed  down 
the  lake  towards  Ticonderoga.  From  Lake  George 
to  Luke  Champlaii),  they  are  primitive.  At  White- 
hall, the  rocks  have  a  very  beautiful  stratification  ; 
the  hills  appear  as  if  cracked  in  two,  and  one  part 
being  removed,  we  have  a  fine  vertical  section  ; 
both  their  horizontal  and  perpendicular  divisions, 
resemble  a  regular  piece  of  masonry,  and  this  is 
the  prevailing  fact,  as  we  pass  down  the  lake. 

The  dip  of  these  strata  ofgnciss,  which  is  to  the  east, 
is  very  moderate,  not  exceeding  a  few  degrees,  and 

17*       > 


^  Mil 


/' 


$ 


194  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

this  appeared  to  be  the  general  fact.  On  our  ride 
from  Fort  Anne  to  Whitehall,  the  road  passed  down 
one  of  the  natural  declivities,  formed  by  the  dip  of 
the  rock ;  for  several  hundred  feet,  in  the  direction 
of  the  road,  the  carriage  rattled  over  this  perfect- 
ly naked  and  smooth  natural  pavement.  1  had,  to- 
day, DO  opportunity  to  land,  to  inspect  the  rocks, 
but,  as  the  boat  often  passed  very  near  the  cliffs, 
sometimes  within  a  few  yards,  I  was  sufficiently 
satisfied,  concerning  their  general  nature. 

During  our  passage  of  twenty-five  miles,  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  we  had  a  fine  descending  sun,  shining  in 
full  strength,  upon  the  bold  scenery  of  the  lake,  and 
that  I  might  enjoy  it,  undisturbed  by  the  bustle  of 
a  crowded  deck,  f  took  my  seat  in  the  carriage, 
where  I  was  protected  equally  from  the  fumes  of 
the  boat,  and  the  chill  of  the  air,  and  could,  at  my 
leisure,  catch  every  variety  of  images,  and  all  the 
changes  of  scenery,  that  were  passing  before  me. 
It  was  with  very  great  regret,  that  1  found  we  could 
not  stop,  even  for  a  moment,  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  Point;  and  it  was  not  till  1  had  devised  and 
dismissed  several  abortive  plans  for  leaving  the  boat 
and  getting  on  afterwards,  or  in  some  other  way, 
that  I  submitted  to  pass  these  interesting  places. 

The  sun,  setting  in  splendor,  shot  his  last  beams 
over  Mount  Defiance,  as  we  came  in  sight  of  it,  and 
the  commmencing  twilight,  softened  by  the  first  ap- 
proaches of  evening,  which  was  not  yet  so  far  ad- 


A 


:b£C. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTFORO  AND  QUEBEC.  195 


n  our  ride 
ssed  down 
the  dip  of 
}  direction 
is  perfect- 
I  had,  to- 
the  rocks, 
the  cliffs, 
efficiently 
e. 

les,  to  Ti- 
shining  in 
:  lake,  and 
e  bustle  of 
:  carriage, 
fumes  of 
uld,  at  my 
id  all  the 
efore  me. 
1  we  could 
leroga  and 
evised  and 
)g  the  boat 
ther  way, 
places. 
last  beams 
t  of  it,  and 
le  first  ap- 
so  far  ad- 


vanced, as  to  throw  objects  into  obscurity,  cast  a 
pensive  veil  over  the  site  and  ruins  of 


TICONDEROGA. 

The  remains  of  this  celebrated  fortress,  once  so 
highly  important,  but  no  longer,  an  object  either  of 
hope  or  fear,  are  still  considerably  conspicuous.  As 
we  came  up  with,  and,  from  the  narrowness  of  the 
lake,  necessarily  passed  very  near  them,  I  was  grati- 
fied, as  much  as  I  could  be,  without  landing,  by  a 
view  of  their  ruins,  still  imposing  in  their  appear- 
ance, and  possessing,  with  all  their  associations,  a 
high  degree  of  heroic  grandeur. 

They  stand  on  a  tongue  of  land,  of  considerable 
elevation,  projecting  south,  between  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  winds  around  and  passes  on  the  east, 
and  the  passage  into  Lake  George,  which  is  on  the 
west. 

The  remains  of  the  old  works  are  still  conspicu- 
ous;, and  the  old  stone  barracks,  erec  ted  by  the 
French,  are  in  part  standing. 

This  fort  was  built  by  the  French ;  and  Lord 
Howe,  and  many  other  gallant  men,  lost  their  lives 
in  the  enterprize  against  it  in  1758. 

From  this  fortress,  issued  many  of  those  fero- 
cious incursions  of  French  and  Indians,  which  for- 
merly distressed  the  English  settlements  ;  and  its 
fall,  in  1759,  (when,  on  the  approach  of  General 


1     in 


•  ^ 


II 


*   ■■> 


i  , 


196  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  t^UEBEC. 

Amherst  with  a  powerful  army,  it  was  abandoned 
by  the  French,  without  fighting,)  filled  the  northern 
colonies  with  joy. 

In  1 777,  great  hopes  were  reposed  upon  this  for- 
tress, as  a  barrier  against  invasion  ;  it  was  regarded 
as  beingemphatically  the  strong  hold  of  the  North ; 
and  when  General  Burgoyne,  with  astonishing  ef- 
fort, dragged  cannon  up  the  precipices  of  Mount 
Defiance,  and  showed  them  on  its  summit,  Ticondc- 
roga,  no  longer  tenable,  was  precipitately  aban- 
doned. 

Mount  Defiance  stands  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  and  between  that  and  Lake  Champlain, 
and  most  completely  commands  Ticonderoga,  which 
is  far  below,  and  within  fair  cannon  shot.  On  the 
slightest  glancQ  at  the  scene,  it  is  a  matter  of  utter 
astonishment,  even  to  one  who  is  not  a  military 
man,  how  so  important  a  point  came  to  be  over- 
looked by  all  preceding  commanders  :  probably  it 
arose  from  the  belief,  which  ought  not  to  have  been 
admitted  till  the  experiment  had  been  tried,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  convey  cannon  to  its  summit.* — 
On  the  right  is  Mount  Independence,  where  there 
was  a  formidable  fort  at  the  time  of  General  Bur- 
goyne's  invasion. 

The  shadows  of  the  night  were  descending  on 
the  venerable  Ticonderoga,  as  we  left  it;  and  when 

*  It  appears,  that  the  Americans  held  a  council  of  war,  in  which 
it  was  debated  whether  they  should  occupy  Mount  Defiance,  but 
as  they  had  not  men  enough  to  man  the  existing  works,  the  thin$ 
was  never  attempted. 


;t>f 


1EC» 

>andoned 
northern 

1  this  for- 
regarded 
e  North ; 
shing  ef- 
)f  Mount 
Ticonde- 
i\y  aban- 

of  Lake 

lamplain, 

;a,  which 

On  the 

r  of  utter 

miiitarj 

be  over- 

)bably  it 

ive  been 

d,  that  it 

nmit.*— 

re  there 

ral  Bur- 

iding  on 
nd  when 

r,  in  which 
»fiance,  but 
B)  the  thiD^ 


TOUR  BETVTEEN  HARTFORD  AND   QUEBEC.     197 

i  looked  upon  its  walls  and  environs,  so  long  and  so 
often  clustering  with  armies— formidable  for  so  great 
a  length  of  time  in  all  the  apparatus  and  prepara- 
tions of  war,  and  the  object  of  so  many  campaigns 
and  battles  ;  but  now,  exhibiting  only  a  solitary 
smoke,  curling  from  a  stone  chimney  in  its  half- 
fallen  barracks,  with  not  one  animated  being  in  sight ; 
while  its  massy  ruins,  and  the  beautiful  green  de- 
clivities, sloping  on  all  sides  to  the  water,  were  still 
and  motionless  as  death,  I  felt  indeed  that  I  was  be- 
holding a  striking  emblem  of  the  mutability  of  power, 
and  of  the  fluctuations  of  empire.  Ticonderoga,  no 
longer  within  the  confines  of  a  hostile  country — no 
longer  a  rallying  point  for  ferocious  savages  and 
for  formidable  armies — no  more  a  barrier  against 
invasion,  or  an  object  of  seige  or  assault,  hai  now 
become  only  a  pasture  for  cattle. 

At  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  takes  a  sudden  but 
short  turn  to  the  right,  and  forms  a  small  bay,  with 
Mount  Defiance  on  the  left.  Mount  Independence 
on  the  right,  and  Ticonderoga  in  front.  This  scene 
is  very  fine,  and  the  whole  outline  of  the  spot — the 
mountains  near,  and  the  mountains  at  a  distance — 
the  shores — the  bay — and  the  ruins,  all  unite  to 
make  a  very  grand  landscape. 

Night  was  upon  us,  before  we  were  up  with 
Crown  Point,  that  other  scarcely  less  celebrated,  or 
less  important  fortress.  The  moon  served  only  to 
enable  me  dimly  to  see  undefined  masses  of  stone 


i: 


r  ' 


198  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

and  earth,  as  a  bystander  observed,  ''  there  are  the 
ruins  of  Crown  Point  !" 

Almost  every  thing  that  has  been  said  historical- 
ly of  Ticonderoga,  is  applicable  to  Crown  Point, 
only  there  has  not  been  much  blood  shed  before  its 
walls.  This  fortress  also,  was  built  by  the  French ; 
it  was  equally  annoying  to  the  English  Colonies  as 
Ticonderoga ;  its  reduction  was  as  ardently  desired, 
and  as  many  campaigns  were  undertaken  for  this 
purpose.  Like  Ticonderoga,  it  was  retained  by 
the  French  till  1769,  when  it  was  quietly  abandon- 
ed by  them,  and  Lord  Amherst,  on  taking  posseS' 
sion  of  it,  built  an  entire  new  fortress  of  stone,  and 
made  it  much  more  formidable  than  before. 


I 


The  next  season  but  one  after  the  above  re- 
marks were  written,  I  enjoyed  the  opportunity 
which  I  had  long  desired  of  examining  the  ruins  of 
Ticonderoga.  Mr.  S.  F.  B.  Morse  and  myself  af- 
ter having  proceeded  (as  already  mentioned,)  by 
water  from  the  head  of  Lake  George  to  its  outlet, 
landed  at  the  village  of  Ticonderoga,  and  proceed- 
ed to  view  the  interesting  objects  of  the  peninsula. 
The  first  thing  that  will  strike  the  traveller,  is  a 
fine  cascade  produced  by  the  waters  of  Lake 
George  rushing  down  the  ledges  of  rock  which  form 
the  beirrier  between  it  and  lake  Champlain.  The 
diiference  of  level  between  the  two  lakes  is  vari- 


i 


'V- 


■^rfTr 


UEBCC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  199 


ere  are  the 

I  historical- 
own  Point, 
d  before  its 
he  French ; 
Colonies  as 
tly  desired, 
en  for  this 
retained  by 
y  abandon- 
cing  posseS' 
f  stone,  and 
fore. 


1  above  re- 
opportunity 
the  ruins  of 
d  myself  af- 
ktioned,)  by 
to  its  outlet, 
nd  proceed- 
e  peninsula, 
iveller,  is  a 
rs  of  Lake 
:  which  form 
plain.  The 
ikes  is  vari- 


»usly  stated  by  different  authors.  Worcester's  Ga- 
zetteer, and  Morses  Geography  (the  Edition  of 
1832,)  place  it  at  about  100  feet.  As  the  waters 
of  Lake  George  perform  the  greater  part  of  this 
descent,  within  a  very  short  distance,  they  form  a 
very  fine  cataract,  and  at  the  same  time  furnish  am- 
ple water  power  for  mills  and  manufactories,  se- 
veral of  which  are  established  upon  the  bank.  The 
village  of  Ticonderoga  is  uninteresting  ;  but  it  will 
furnish  the  traveller  with  a  waggon  and  a  guide  for 
the  purpose  of  exploring  the  peninsula.  The  voy- 
ager on  Lake  George  will  of  course  carry  with  him, 
interesting  recollections  of  its  military  history,  and 
especially  of  the  ill-fated  expedition  of  General 
Abercrombie  whose  departure  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake,  I  have  already  mentioned. 

"  On  the  fifth  of  July,  1758,  the  whole  army  ex- 
cept a  reserve,  left  for  the  protection  of  this  spot, 
embarked  in  a  thousand  and  thirty  five  boats  with 
all  the  splendour  of  military  parade.  The  morn- 
ing was  remarkably  bright  and  beautiful,  and  the 
fleet  moved  with  exact  regularity  to  the  sound  of 
fine  martial  music.  The  ensigns  waved  and  glit- 
tered in  the  sun-beams  :  and  the  anticipation 
of  future  triumph  shone  in  every  eye.  Above,  be- 
neath, around,  the  scenery  was  that  of  enchantri 
ment,  and  rarely  has  the  sun,  since  that  luminary 
was  first  lighted  up  in  the  heavens,  dawned  on  such 
a  complication  of  beauty  and  magnificence."* 

*  President  D wights  travels  Vol.  3  pp.  381-2. 


# 


.*« 

k 

1 

m 

•1 

i  ■ 

1 

c 

1 

■•  I, 

'ti 

m 

I 

."J 

)    ■. ' 


^1 


V  ■ 
fl. 


'VH- 


• 


i 


200  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

Next  morning  July  the  6th,  this  fine  army,  by  far 
the  finest  that  had  then  been  assembled  in  America, 
having  disembarked  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  George, 
began  its  march  in  four  columns  for  the  fort  of  Ti- 
conderoga,  distant  only  three  miles.    The  country 
was  in  deep  forest  and  the  guides  being  unskilful, 
the  army  fell  into  confusion.     At  that  moment  the 
right  centre  column,  led  on  by  Lord  Howe,  fell  in 
with  the  enemy's  advance  guard  which  was  retreat- 
ing towards  Ticonderoga. — This  party  also  had  lost 
its  way  in  the  woods,  but  they  attacked  the  Eng- 
lish ,  and  at  the  first  fire  Lord  Howe,*  the  pride  and 
hope  of   the  army  fell.f     The  provincial  troops, 
however,  accustomed  to  this  species  of  warfare,  re- 
pelled the  attack  and  destroyed  the  party,  consist- 
ing of  nearly  five  hundred. 

It  can  never  be  sufficiently  regretted  that  meas- 
ure* had  not  been  taken  to  transport  a  few  cannon 
to  the  top  of  Mount  Defiance,  a  measure  which 
General  Burgoyne,  nineteen  years  afterwards,  pro- 
ved to  be  perfectly  practicable,  for  then  Ticondero- 
ga would  have  surrendered  without  firing  a  gun, 
and  the  disgraceful  and  bloody  tragedy  would  have 
been  prevented.  At  least,  cannon  should  have  been 
brought  to  attack  the  lines.  But  Gen.  Abercrom- 
bje,  who  does  not  appear   ever  to   have  seen  the 


■u  J! 


*Lord  Howe  fell  at  a  distance  from  the  shore  of  the  Lake — Gen- 
eral Hoyt  informs  me  that  he  has  very  nearly  ascertained  the 
exact  spot. 

t  Doct.  Dwight's  travels. 


;l^/ 


# 


^.'-•^ . 


•  Wr 


,UEBEC. 

pmy,  by  far 
1  America, 
e  George, 
fort  of  Ti- 
le  country 
;  unskilful, 
Dment  the 
we,  fell  in 
as  retreat- 
so  had  lost 
the  £ng- 
pride  and 
al  troops, 
arfare,  re- 
r,  consist- 

lat  meas- 
V  cannon 

re  which 
ards,  pro- 
icondero- 
ng  a  gun, 
>uld  have 
lavebeen 
hercrom- 

seen  the 

,ake — Gen- 
rtaiaed  the 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTPORD    AND    <IUEBEC.  301 

French  lines  md  relying  upon  the  report  of  his  en* 
gineers  that  the  works  could  be  carried  by  assault, 
gave  orders  for  the  army  to  advance  immediately 
to  the  attack.  As  wr  advanced  from  the  mills  over 
the  same  ground  still  covered  (as  it  was  then) 
in  a  great  measure  by  wood,  we  descried  the 
lines,  still  in  line  preservation,  running  quite  across 
the  peninsula, and  winding  down  its  shores  on  both 
sides,  making  a  circuit  of  3-4  of  a  mile,  we  were 
forcibly  struck  with  the  madness  of  the  attempt. 
The  parapet,  especially  in  the  front  of  the  work, 
where  the  principal  assault  was  made,  is  still  tena- 
ble, and  would  at  this  moment,  without  repair,  form 
a  better  defence  than  the  Americans  enjoyed  at 
Bunker's  Hill.  The  ditch  is  even  now  very  deep— - 
I  descended  into  it  and  found  that  the  parapet  was 
higher  than  the  top  of  my  head,  so  that  I  can  readi- 
ly believe  that  it  was  originally,  as  stated  by  histo- 
rians, eight  or  nine  feet  high.*  In  front  of  this 
work,  the  trees  were  felled  so  as  to  interweave  their 
branches,  and  present  their  points  (sharpened  by 
axes)  in  every  direction,  so  as  to  form  the  most  im- 
penetrable abattis.  The  assailants  had  no  cannon  and 
marched  up  in  solid  columns,  fully  exposed  to  the 
tremendous  fire  of  their  enemy,  both  from  small 

*  Doct.  Dwight  (travels,  p.  383,)  remarks  that  wheo  be  aaw 
the  lines,  they  were  oot  more  than  four  fieet  high,  and  expresses  a 
doubt  whether  they  were  ever  more  than  six — this  is  true  uf  the 
wings— But  in  front  where,  alone  the  attack  was  made,  their  ap- 
pearance was  still  very  formidable. 

18 


w       ^r^ 


t 


\ 


%' 


202  TOUR  BETWEEN  HAUTfORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


II 


't  I 


'  Jl 


•i 


y 


•^'■- 


r. 


% 


arms  and  artillery,  while  the  enemy  was  per- 
fectly secure  within  their  entrenchments,  and  scarce- 
ly sustained  any  loss  during  four  hours  that  the  at- 
tack was  sustained.  The  English  and  Provincials, 
entangled  in  the  fatal  abattis,  presented  a  sure  mark 
for  the  deliberate  aim  of  the  enemy,  and  poured 
their  generous  blood  like  water  upon  the  ground, 
while  the  greater  part  of  the  army,  from  the  nar- 
rowness of  the  point  of  attack,  were  necessarily  in- 
active, and  their  General  at,  the  distance  of  two 
miles,  was  ignorant  in  a  great  measure  of  their  sit- 
uation, and  neglected  to  give  the  order  for  retreat, 
till  nearly  two  thousand  of  his  finest  troops,  had 
fallen  either  with  wounds  or  in  death.  Several 
times,  did  small  parties  of  the  highlanders  mount 
the  works,  but  they  were  slaughtered  or  repelled 
before  they  could  receive  any  adequate  a'^sistance. 
No  attack  was  made  upon  the  wings  where  the 
works  were  the  weakest,  nor  did  the  General  avail 
himself  of  his  great  numerical  superiority  (for  the 
enemy  had  not  over  three  thousand  men,  and  ac- 
cording to  some  accounts  not  above  half  that  num- 
ber,) to  assault  all  parts  of  the  works,  at  once  when 
there  can  be  little  doubt,  that  the  assailants  would 
have  been  at  some  point  successful.  —As  the  attack 
was  conducted,  it  was  a  scene  of  mere  slaughter, 
worse  than  the  affair  of  Bunker's  Hill  or  Montmo- 
renci,  and  as  bad  as  that  of  New-Orleans?.* 

*The  army, after  this  battle,  retreated  precipitately  to  the  head 
of  Lake  Georg^o,  and  the  retreat  was  ev%n  more  disgraceful,  than 


■-.v 


bec. 

was  per- 
ndscarce- 
lat  the  at- 
ovincials, 
sure  mark 
d  poured 
e  ground, 
the  nar- 
searily  in- 
:e  of  two 

*  their  sit- 
Dr  retreat, 
9ops,  had 

Several 
ers  mount 

•  repelled 
["sistance. 
»rhere  the 
leral  avail 
y  (for  the 
,  and  ac- 
that  num- 
mce  when 
nts  would 
the  attack 
slaughter, 

Montmo- 


y  to  the  head 
raceful,  than 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    «tUEBEC.    203 

After  entering  the  old  French  lines,    which  are 
nearly  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  fort  of  Ticonde- 
roga,  we  come  to  a  fine  parade  ground  sufficient  for 
the  evolutions  of  many  thousands.    It  slopes  gently 
to  the  south,  and  terminates  at   the  walls   of    Ti- 
conderoga,   the    ancient    fortress  erected  by    the 
French.     This  fortress,  although    in  ruins,  is    well 
worthy  of  being  visited  by  every  traveller.     After 
all  the  dilapidations  of  time  and  of  man,  Ticonde- 
roga,  with  its  mutilated    walls   and   barracks,  and 
with  its  picturesque  environs,  presents  one  of  the  fin- 
est ruins  in  America.    Happily  the  garrison  ground, 
constituting  a  .'arm  of  about  six  hundred  acres,  and 
including  the  old  Freneh  lines,  as  well  as  the  forts 
and  barracks,  has  fallen  into  the  hands  of  a  gentle- 
man,''^ whose  good  sense  and  just  taste  will  not  per- 
mit a  stone  to  be  removed. — This  scene,  fine  in  its 
natural  beauty  and  grandeur,  and  still  finer  in  its 
historical  associations,  may  therefore  go  down  to 
posterity  without  further  mutilation.     The  rock  of 
which  the  walls  and  barracks  of  Ticonderoga  are 
built,   is   a   black    fetid    compact  limestone.      It 
abounds  in  this  region,  and  constitutes  the  ledges  on 
the  shores  of  the  contiguous  part  of  Vermont.     It?; 
stratification  is  nearly  horizontal,    and   it  is   filled 
with  organized  remains,  corallines,  bivalves,  he. — 
At  New  Shoreham,  which  is  immediately  opposite 

the  previous  battle.  Full  14,000  effective  men  still  remained, 
and  it  was  slill  entirely  vr ifhin  the  power  of  this  army  to  have  re- 
diiced  Ticonileroga  even  without  another  Btrtiggle. 

♦  Mr.  iVlUof  Ncw-Yorlf. 


■      I' 


\  m 


fe 


%# 


n 


I 


ii\n 


"204     TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    <IUEBEC. 


1       1 


i^> 


to  TicoDderoga,  they  informed  us  that  the  water  of 
wells  dug  in  this  Hmestone  is  ofTensive,  and  unfit 
for  use.  Hence  the  inhabitants  use  the  water  of 
the  lake,  and  they  provide  ice  houses,  that  the  wa- 
ter may,  in  warm  weather,  be  rendered  agreeably 
cool. 

The  walls,  the  barracks,  the  subterraneous  mag- 
azines, the  kitchens  and  store  rooms,  the  covered 
ways  and  advanced  works  of  Ticonderoga  are  of  sol 
id  masonry.  When  this  fortress  was  precipitately 
abandoned  in  the  Revolutionary  war,  by  the  army 
under  Gen.  St.  Clair,  it  was  blown  up  and  set  on 
fire.  The  explosion  removed  the  roof  and  over- 
threw a  part  of  the  walls  of  the  barracks ;  but  enough 
remains  to  give  one  a  perfect  idea  of  the  structure, 
and  to  form  a  ruin  well  worthy  of  the  pencil.  The 
half  burnt  timbers  still  remain  in  the  walls,  and 
the  subterraneous  structures  as  well  as  the  proper 
walls  of  the  fort  have  escaped  with  little  injury 
from  the  hand  of  violence  and  of  time.  The  south 
gate  of  the  fort,  is  the  one  at  which  Gen.  Arnold, 
entered,  when  he  surprised  the  British  garrison  at 
the  commencement  of  the  American  war.  The 
Grenadier's  battery,  as  it  is  still  called,  is  at  the 
southern  point  of  the  peninsula  at  the  water's  edge, 
and  is  terminated  by  perpendicular  cliffs  of  lime- 
stone  rock.  On  the  shore  at  the  landing  place  is 
one  of  the  old  stone  store-housses  which  is  now 
used  as  a  (avern.  On  the  continent,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  lake,  are  the  remains  of  the  fort  oa 


(^oV.  GtVa^vv  tVajI/VS.   c»h«.A   e«vvw^ 


Ol.^.^^'T-       a,   t*/«-V     t^^v\'V*-^vt' 


K<f^ 


Cw««    C_»AA*iA^ 


^JC».vw4j, 


—X' 


7s?r 


JEBEC. 

J  water  of 
and  unfit 
water  of 
t  the  wa- 
igreeably 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  205 

Mount  Independence,  to  which  the  main  body  of 
the  American  army  retreated  in  July,  1777,  when 
pursued  by  Gen.  Burgoyne. 


t 


t 


1^         "^ 


ous  mag- 
covered 
ire  of  sol 
:ipitately 
the  army 
d  set  on 
nd  over- 
it  enough 
tructure, 
:il.    The 
alls,  and 
s  proper 
e   injury 
le  south 
Arnold 


rison 
r. 


at 
The 
at  the 
's  edge, 
}f  lime- 
>lace  is 
is  now 
»  oppo- 
fort  OQ 


ft  -. 


A  NIGHT  ON  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 

The  recent  loss  of  the  Phcenix,  and  the  tragical 
events  by  which  it  was  accompanied,  might  well 
have  caused  us  some  anxiety,  in  the  prospect  of  a 
night  passage  on  the  lake  ;  but  the  weather  was  fine 
and  the  water  smooth,  and  we  had  a  good  boat, 
furnished  with  a  gentleman's  cabin  on  deck.  As 
1  was,  however,  scarcely  able  to  sleep  at  all,  I 
passed  most  of  the  night  in  the  carriage,  both 
as  being  a  pleasant  situation,  and  as  affording  mc 
some  opportunity  of  observing  the  tire,  the  man- 
agement of  which  1  was  willing  enough  to  see.  I 
am  sorry  to  say,  that  1  was  disappointed  in  not  ob- 
serving that  anxious  vigilance,  which,  after  the  late 
dreadful  occurrence,  we  should  naturally  expect  to 
find.  Large  piles  of  pine  wood,  very  dry,  of 
course,  and  also  very  hot,  from  their  being  placed 
near  the  furnace  and  boilers,  occupied  the  middle 
of  the  vessel.  A  candle  was  plac(3d  by  one  of  the 
people  on  a  projecting  end  of  a  stick  of  Ihis  wood. 
It  had  burned  nearly  down,  and  a  fresh  north  wind 
blew  the  flame  directly  towards,  and  almost  against 
the  pine  slivers,  which  were  very  dry  and  full  of 

•   18* 


,  » 


/  Jl 


!r 


^^  r  / 


306  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

%      turpentine,  and  therefore  in  a  condition  to  catch 
fire  with   the  greatest  ease.     Happily,  from  the 

contiguous  carriage  window,  Mr.  W obsorv- 

ed  this  threatening  candle,  and  after  some  impor- 
tunity with  the  people,  (who  seemed  very  indiffe- 
rent to  the  danger,)  succeeded  in  having  it  removed. 
It  might,  very  naturally,  have  caused  the  Congress 
to  share  the  fate  of  the  Phcenix,  which  was  burnt, 
by  a  candle  placed  in  a  situation  of  less  apparent 
danger ;  that  is,  near  a  shelf  in  a  closet,  where  it 
communicated  fire  to  the  board. ""^ 

We  found  one  other  unpleasant  circumstance: 
the  boat  stopped  several  times,  at  different  places, 
on  the  two  shores  of  the  lake,  to  deliver  and  re- 
ceive freight,  and  our  captain  being  extremely  dila- 
tory, we  were  delayed  one  and  two  hours  at  a 
place. 


»/?'»  ') 


SCENERY,  PLATTSBURGH,it-c. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  stopped  at 
Burlington,  and  left  the  carriage  and  horses  with 
the  young  man  to  takf  care  of  them,  till  our  return 
from  Canada.  It  was  day-light  before  we  left  this 
place,  and  the  morning  presented  a  scene  so  simi- 

•  On  our  return,  we  found  the  Cofigress  under  a  new  captain, 
and  a  much  more  strict  police,  which  left  no  farther  room  to 
com^flain  of  negligence. 


H'i 


EBEC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC,    207 


I  to  catch 
from  the 
—  obsorv- 
me  impor- 
ry  indiffe* 
I;  removed. 
5  Congress 
was  burnt, 
s  apparent 
,  where  it 

umstance : 
3nt  places, 
2r  and  re- 
imely  dila- 
ours  at  a 


topped  at 
Jises  with 
)ur  return 
e  left  this 
e  so  simi- 


lar to  Long-Island  Sound,  that  we  could  hardly 
persuade  ourselves  that  we  were  on  fresh  water. 
Although  the  weather  was  fair,  and  we  could  see 
the  most  distant  shores,  the  high  mountains  were 
hardly  distinguishable,  being  shrouded  in  vapor. 

Early  in  the  forenoon,  we  were  in  Plattsburgh 
Bay,  and  passed  over  the  scene  of  Commodore 
McDonough's  brilliant  victory ;  an  event  singular- 
ly decisive  in  its  circumstances,  momentous  in  its 
results,  and  honorable  in  the  highest  degree  to  that 
able  and  gallant  commander. 

At  this  memorable  place,  (the  only  one  since  we 
left  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  where  a  long 
delay  would  hare  been  grateful,)  we  had  time  only 
to  walk  a  little  way  towards  the  village,  and  to  visit 
one  of  the  batteries,  signalized  in  September,  1814, 
in  repelling  the  enemy  from  the  pas^sage  of  the 
Saranac.  Dr.  L.  Foot,*  of  the  army,  caused  the 
little  time  wc  had  to  spend,  to  pass  both  agreeably 
and  usefully ;  but  we  were  soon  again  under  way, 
and  doubling  Cumberland  Head,  round  which  the 
brave  but  unfortunate  Commodore  Downie  sailed, 
to  defeat  and  death,  we  left  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Plattsburgh,  with  all  its  grand  and  interesting  asso- 
ciations, m^ 

'''  A  friend,  and  for  eeyeral  years  a  pupil. 


/ 


1 


new  captain, 
her  room  to 


rn 


208    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    (QUEBEC. 


ENTRANCE  INTO  CANADA. 


Fi  \  ( 


;/., 


I    p^ 


Our  passage  down  the  remainder  of  the  lake  was 
very  rapid,  and  we  soon  arrived  at  the  American 
custom-house;  the  boat  was  visited,  but  our  bag- 
gage was  not  examined,  and  we  were  treated  with 
the  greatest  civility. 

This  ceremony,  (for  it  was  a  ceremony,  merely,) 
being  over,  we  were  very  soon  abreast  of  the  great 
stone  castle,  resembling  that  on  Governor's  Island, 
at  New- York.  It  was  erected  by  the  American 
government,  on  Rouse's  Point,  upon  the  western 
side  of  the  entrance  into  the  river  Sorel  or  Riche- 
lieu, and  was  designed  to  command  the  communi- 
cation between  that  river  and  Lake  Champlain. 
In  consequence  of  a  late  determination  that  the 
boundary  line  (the  45th  degree  of  latitude,)  passes 
a  little  south  of  this  castle,  it  now  falls  to  the  Brit- 
ish government. 

The  current  favored  our  progress,  and  we  push- 
ed on  very  impetuously  through  the  quiet  waters 
of  this  very  considerable  river,  whose  smooth  sur- 
face was  thrown  into  waves  by  our  rapid  course. 
The  country,  on  both  sides,  is  the  most  uninterest- 
ing that  can  well  be  imagined.  It  is  a  low  wet 
swamp,  not  redeemed,  like  Holland,  but,  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  too  much  covered  by  water  to 
admit  of  immediate  cultivation.  A  few  patches  of 
clear  and  dry  land,  and  a  few  pi^ti  hamlets,  appear 
here  and  there,  but  there  is  no  village  worth  men 


M 


V      . 


•  BEC* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  209 


5  lake  was 
American 
t  our  bag- 
sated  with 

,  merely,) 
r  the  great 
>r^s  Island, 
American 
le  western 
or  Riche- 
communi- 
Ihamplain. 
I  that  the 
le,)  passes 
)  the  Brit- 

I  we  push- 
let  waters 
nooth  sur- 
d  course, 
ninterest- 
i  low  wet 
to  a  con- 
water  to 
)atche8  of 
ts,  appear 
orth  men 


lioning,  in  the  whole  distance  of  twenty  miles  to  St. 
John's.  The  land  appears  to  the  eye  as  if  it  were 
even  lower  than  the  water,  and  we  naturally  think 
of  fevers  and  of  agues,  which,  however,  are  said  to 
be  of  rare  occurrence,  and  are  probably  prevented 
by  a  temperate  climate.  At  some  future  day,  should 
this  country  become  populous,  this  low  marshy  land, 
which  is  probably  fertile,  may  be  rescued  from  the 
water,  by  the  same  means  which  have  caused  such 
scenes  of  richness  and  beauty  to  be  exhibited  in 
Holland. 

The  only  very  interesting  object  in  the  river,  is 
the  Isle  aux  Noix,  eleven  miles  from  the  frontier, 
and  eight  or  nine  from  St.  John's.  The  glitter  of 
arms — the  splendor  of  the  British  uniform— the  im- 
posing appearance  of  ramparts  and  cannon — the 
beauty  of  the  log  barracks  of  the  officers,  painted 
in  stripes — and  the  bustle  of  military  activity,  of 
course  excited  a  degree  of  interest,  and  afforded  an 
agreeable  relief  from  the  dull  scenes  of  forests  and 
swamps. 

The  Isle  aux  Noix,  is  important  in  time  of  war, 
as  being  the  frontier  British  post,  and  has  been, 
many  times,  a  point  of  rendezvous  for  armies  and 
flotillas,  not  only  for  the  invaders,  but  for  the  de- 
fenders of  Canada. 

We  both  left  and  received  passengers  at  this  isl- 
and, but  without  going  ourselves  on  shore,  and  less 
than  one  hour  from  the  time  we  left  it  brought  us 
to  the  wharf  at  St.  John's,  in  Lower  Canada;  we 


,  t  • 


iK 


/      M 


■t 


,i'  m 


210  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

arrived  before  night  on  the  30th  of  September,  ten 
days  from  our  leaving  Hartford.*  'r 


'  !• 


»      !• 


I      t 


», 


m} 


ST.  JOHNS,  AND  DEPARTURE  FOR  MONTREAL. 

St.  John*s. — 1  scarcely  saw  any  thing  more  ol 
this  little  town,  than  what  might  be  observed  in 
passing  to  the  inn,  where  we  found  attention  and 
kindness,  but  a  house  so  crowded  th»  we  were  very 
willing  to  leave  it  on  our  way  to  Montreal. 

We  did  not  go,  with  most  of  our  steam  boat  com- 
panions in  the  stage,  which  went  on  in  the  night,  to 
La  Prairie,  but  the  next  morning  were  furnished 
with  an  extra  conveyance,  in  which  we  proceeded 
on  our  journey.  There  are  good  stages  at  St.  John's, 
exactly  like  the  most  common  kind  of  American 
stage  coaches,  or  rather  stage  waggons,  and  they 
are  furnished  with  good  horses.  Indeed,  we  were 
informed  that  these  establishments  were  set  up  by 
Americans,  whose  enterprize  and  activity  are  re- 
markably contrasted  with  the  unvarying  habits  of 
the  native  Canadians. 

The  private  carriage  in  which  we  travelled,  was 
an  old  fashioned  hack,  such  as  might  have  been 
seen  in  American  towns  twenty  or  twenty-five  years 
ago;  the  canvass  curtains,  (without  windows,)  were 
torn,  had  few  or  no  strings  to  secure  them  in  place, 

*  Such  is  the  expedition  of  the  public  vehicles,  that  this  dh- 
tanoe  maij/  be  travelled  in  three  days. 


W-' 


iUEREC. 

(ember,  ten 


DNTREAL. 

ng  more  oi 
observed  iti 
ttcntion  and 
re  were  very 
eal. 

tn  boat  com- 
the  night,  to 
ire  furnished 
e  proceeded 
at  St.  John's, 
of  American 
ns,  and  thej 
!ed,  we  were 
jre  set  up  by 
ivity  are  re- 
ng  habits  of 

avelled,  was 
t  have  been 
ity-five  years 
idows,)  were 
lem  in  place, 

es,  that  this  db- 


TOUR   BETWSEN    HARTFORD  ASh  QUEBEC.   21 1 

and  flapping  in  a  brisk  head  wind,  they  served  to 
let  in  rather  than  to  exclude  the  cold  air,  an^  ^ry 
imperfectly  screened  us  from  a  driving  rain.  Our 
coachman  was  a  Vermont  lad,  who  had  emigrated 
in  childhood,  along  with  his  parents,  but  he  had  not 
caught  the  Canadian  tardiness  of  movement,  for  he 
drove  us  at  a  great  rate,  over  a  road  very  level,  but 
by  no  means  smooth  ;  we  were,  however,  willing 
to  bear  pretty  severe  jolting,  for  the  sake  of  expe- 
dition. 

We  had  an  interesting  ride  of  twelve  miles,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Sorel  river,  which  murmured 
along  by  our  side,  and  were  charmed  with  the  com- 
fortable white  cottages,  constructed  very  neatly  of 
hewn  logs,  and  forming  apparently  dry  and  warm 
dwellings.  Almost  every  moment  we  met  the  cheer- 
ful looking  peasants,  driving  their  little  carts,  (char- 
rettes,)  drawn  by  horses  of  a  diminutive  size.  The 
men  were  generally  standing  up  in  the  body  of  the 
cart,  with  their  lighted  pipes  in  their  mouths,  and 
wore  red  or  blue  sashes,  and  long  conical  woollen 
caps,  of  various  colors.  These  carts  were  furnished 
with  high  rails,  and  occasionally  with  seats,  occupi- 
ed by  females  and  children;  they  appeared  (like  our 
one  horse  waggons,)  to  furnish  the  most  common 
accommodation  for  transporting  both  commodities 
and  persons. 

We  gave  our  horses  a  few  moments  of  rest  at 
Chambly,  but  were  prevented  by  the  rain  from 
leaving  our  inn.    I  regretted  this,  however,  the  less, 


hi 


# 


k^, 


r  •';"♦ 


212  TOUB  RKTWEEN  BARTFOlUi  AND  QUEBEC. 

as  we  expected  to  return  through  the  same  place, 
and  might  be  more  favorably  situated.  » 

We  lost  no  time  in  resuming  our  journey,  and 
drove,  in  less  than  three  hours  to  Longueil,  through 
a  perfectly  level  country,  well  cultivated,  fertile, 
considerably  populous,  and  furnished  with  very 
neat  and  comfortable  white  houses,  constructed  of 
hewn  logs,  like  those  on  the  Sorel  river.  The 
barns,  frequently  of  a  large  size,  were  usually  built 
in  the  same  manner  ;  but  the  want  of  good  frame 
work  was  very  obvious  in  their  frequently  distorted 
appearance. 


FIRST  GLIMPSE  OF  MONTREAL. 


p    1 


Uv 


At  the  village  of  Longueil,  or  a  little  before  ar- 
riving there,  we  cr\ught  the  first  view  of  Montreal. 
The  first  impression  of  this  city  is  very  pleasing. 
In  its  turrets  and  steeples,  glittering  with  tin ;  in  its 
thickly  built  streets,  stretching  between  one  and 
two  miles  along  the  river,  and  rising  gently  from  it ; 
in  its  environs,  ornamented  with  country  houses 
and  green  fields ;  in  the  noble  expanse  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  sprinkled  with  islands ;  in  its  foaming 
and  noisy  rapids;  and  in  the  bold  ridge  of  the 
mountain,  which  forms  the  back  ground  of  the  city, 
we  recognize  all  the  features  necessary  to  a  rich 
and  magnificent  landscape,  and  perceive  among 
these  indications,  decisive  proofs  of  a  flourishing 
inland  emporium. 


< 


[JEBEC. 

ame  place. 

urney,  and 
3il,  through 
ed,  fertile, 
with  very 
istructed  of 
ver.  The 
sually  built 
;ood  frame 
y  distorted 


before  ar- 
'  Montreal. 

pleasing, 
tin;  in  its 

one  and 
ly  from  it ; 
try  houses 
of  the  St. 
s  foaming 
^e  of  the 
)f  the  city, 

to  a  rich 
ve  among 
Sourishing 


m 


TOUIl    BETWEEN    UARTFOBD  ANn   (^i  ftnBC.    31  } 


PASSAGE  OF  THE   ST.  LAWRENCE. 


If  we  experienced  some  elevation  of  feeling  at 
the  first  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  we  were  not 
likely  to  have  our  pride  cherished  by  the  means 
which  conveyed  us  over  this  mighty  river.  Two 
Canadian  boatmen  ferried  us  over  in  a  canoe,  hol- 
lowed out  of  a  single  log.  Our  baggage  being  duly 
placed,  we  were  desired  to  sit,  face  to  face,  on 
some  clean  straw,  placed  on  boards,  which  lay 
across  the  bottom  of  the  boat:  we  were  situated 
thus  low,  that  our  weight  might  not  disturb  the 
balance  of  the  canoe,  and  we  were  requested  to 
sit  perfectly  still.  Our  passage  was  to  be  nearly 
three  miles  obliquely  up  the  stream,  and  a  part  of 
the  way  against  some  powerful  rapids. 

Between  us  and  Montreal,  considerably  up  the 
river,  lay  the  brilliant  island  of  St.  Helena.  It 
is  elevated,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  is 
strongly  marked  by  entrenchments,  is  fertile,  and 
covered  in  part  with  fine  timber.  It  is  a  domain, 
and  we  were  much  struck  with  the  beautiful  situa- 
tion of  the  house  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  be- 
longing to  the  Baroness  Lonqueil.     With  the  island 

and  river,  it  would  form  a  fine   subject  for  a  pic- 
ture. 
Our  boatmen  conveyed  us,  without  much  difli- 

culty,  to  the  southern  point  of  this  island,  between 

which,  and  the  city,  owing  to  the  compression  of 

the  river  by  the  island,  a  powerful  rapid  rushes 

19 


>\} 


i 


H 


i  ' 


2t4    TOUR  BETWEEN  HAATFOIID   AMI    ^VEhEti. 

along,  with  much  agitation,  and  a  current,  which  il 
is  very  difficult  to  stem.  At  the  point  of  the  isl- 
and, particularly,  a  branch  of  the  river,  confined 
by  rocks^  dashes  along,  almost  with  the  rapidity  of 
water  bursting  from  a  flood  gate.  Through  this 
strait  it  was  necessary  to  pass,  and,  for  some  time, 
the  boat  went  back,  and  even  after  landing  us  on 
the  island,  the  canoe  was  coming  around,  broadside 
to  the  current,  when  we  were  apprehensive  that 
our  baggage  must  be  thrown  into  the  river ;  but,  by 
main  strength,  they  pushed  the  boat  through  this 
torrent,  and  along  the  shore  of  the  island,  till  the 
rapid  became  so  moderate,  that  they  ventured  again 
to  take  us  in,  and  push  for  the  city.  It  took  these 
poor  fellows  a  toilsome  hour  to  convey  us  over, 
and  they  demanded  but  a  pittance  for  their  ser- 
vices. 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  MONTREAL. 

We  mounted  a  steep  slippery  bank,  from  the 
river,  and  found  ourselves  in  one  of  the  principal 
streets  of  the  city.  It  required  no  powerful  effort 
of  the  imagination,  to  conceive  that  we  were  arri- 
ved in  Europe.  A  town,  compactly  built  of  stone, 
without  wood  or  briok,  indicating  permanency,  and 
even  a  degree  of  antiquity,  presenting  some  hand- 
some public  and  private  buildings,  an  active  and  nu> 
merous  population,  saluting  the  ear  with  two  Ian- 


m^ 


r£B£C>'. 

it,  which  it 
of  the  isl- 
',  confined 
rapidity  of 
irough  this 
some  time, 
ding  us  on 
,  broadside 
ensive  that 
jr ;  but,  by 
irough  this 
id,  till  the 
lured  again 
took  these 
ly  us  over, 
their  ser- 


AL. 

:,  from  the 
le  principal 
erful  effort 
were  arri- 
ilt  of  stone, 
nency,  and 
some  hand- 
ive  and  nu- 
[h  two  lan- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    qUEHEC'.    '215 

guages,  but  principally  with  the  French— every 
thing  seems  foreign,  and  we  easily  feel  that  we  are 
a  great  way  from  home. 


ACCOMMODATIONS  OF  A  PUBLIC  HOUSE. 

We  wert  no  sooner  ushered  into  the  mansion- 
house,'^  a  vast  building,  constructed  of  hewn  stone, 
than  we  could  easily  imagine  ourselves  in  one  of 
the  principal  coffee-houses  of  London.  Assiduity, 
quiet,  and,  in  a  word,  domestic  comfort,  in  every 
particular,  except  the  absence  of  the  family  circle, 
were  at  once  in  our  possession. 

The  master  of  the  house  was  an  Englishman, 
and,  having  been  brought  up  in  a  London  coffee- 
house, he  very  naturally  transferred  all  that  is  desi- 
rable  and  comfortable,  in  the  habits  of  those  estab- 
lishments, to  his  own,  in  Montreal. 

Being  worn  out  with  suffering,  from  the  cause 
which  I  mentioned  at  WliitehalJ,  I  was  obliged  to 
betake  myself  immediately  to  ray  room  and  bed  ; 
but  I  was  not  permitted  to  feel  that  I  was  a  stran- 
ger ;  so  prompt  were  the  attentions,  and  so  appro- 
priate the  various  little  comforts  and  refreshments, 
that  were  provided  and  administered. 

The  next  morning,  having  obtained  complete  re- 
lief, from  what  I  had  not  expected,  superior  surgical 

*  Siuce  destroyed  by  fire. 


m 


II 


Vi  , 


**^  V  '**!.  ..>^.ii*..  ■^*  •»  .  If  ^ 


— » -.-*,, 


216  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

skill,*.  I  was  enabled  to  begin  to  enjoy,  as  well  as  to 
see  the  new  objects  around  me. 


MANNERS  OF  THE  GUESTS. 

Dinner  here,  is  at  five  o'clock ;  soup  was  ready, 
however,  at  almost  any  previous  hour,  and  we  par- 
took of  this  refreshment,  not  having  been  recently 
accustomed  to  so  late  an  hour  for  dinner.  We 
found  at  table,  a  small  party  of  very  respectable 
men,  apparently  Englishmen ;  and  we  were  partic- 
ularly and  agreeably  struck,  with  the  gentlemanly 
manners  of  every  individual  at  table,  where,  al- 
though the  guests  were  strangers  to  us,  and  proba- 
bly most  of  them  to  each  other,  all  were  polite, 
attentive,  and  sociable,  without  that  selfish  indiffe- 
rence, or  rude  familiarity,  so  common  at  some  public 
tables,  where  a  correct  medium  seems  hardly  to  be 
understood. 

The  manners  of  this  circle  were  particularly  con- 
trasted with  those  of  a  certain  group,  which  we  had 
encountered  during  our  tour,  and  from  which  it  was 
impossible,  at  the  time,  to  make  our  escape.  They 
were  noisy,  drinking,  swearing,  card-playing  gentle^ 
men;  and  of  all  ages,  from  twenty  to  sixty,  but  in 
their  manners  so  alike,  that  youth  and  age  were 
fitly  associated. 

'"  In  a  mode  9uffici«nlly  curiam  and  origitml,  which  I  rhull 
meDtion  further  oo. 


JEBEC. 

3  well  as  to 


was  ready, 
id  we  par- 
n  recently 
ner.  We 
espectable 
sre  partic- 
intlemanly 
vhere,  al- 
ind  proba- 
ere  polite, 
ill  indiffe- 
)me  public 
rdly  to  be 

larly  con- 
5h  we  had 
lich  it  was 
e.  They 
ng  gentle' 
:ty,  but  in 
age  were 

bich  I  !<)iull 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  217 

We  began,  at  evening,  to  receive  the  calls  of 
those  to  whom  we  had  letters,  particularly  of  some 
of  our  own  countrymen,  and  obtained  at  once,  all 
the  local  information  which  we  needed,  to  direct 
our  immediate  movements,  and  to  enable  us  to  form 
and  mature  our  plans. 


EVENING  SCENES  ON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

The  weather  being  mild  and  tine,  parlor  fires 
were  not  yet  kindled  in  Canada,  but,  as  we  prefer- 
red a  fire  for  ourselves,  we  retired  at  evening  into  a 
very  largs  and  well  furnished  room,  with  a  bow 
end,  and  overlooking  a  terrace,  thirty  feet  wide,  and 
one  hundred  and  forty-four  long,  which  is  the 
length  of  the  house.  This  terrace  is  thirty  feet 
above  the  river,  immediately  on  its  brink,  and  com- 
mands a  view  of  it,  for  many  miles  up  and  down  the 
stream,  and  of  the  country  on  the  other  shore,  thus 
presenting  a  most  delightful  prospect.  This  room 
was  our  parlor,  while  we  remained  in  the  house, 
and  we  were  particularly  fond  of  viewing  from  its 
windows,  and  from  the  terrace  below,  the  fine  scenes 
of  twilight  and  evening,  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

We  had  anticipated  some  inconvenience,  in  visit- 
ing Canada,  so  late  in  the  season,  on  account  of  the 
shortness  of  tho  days  ;  but  the  long  and  bright  twi- 
light, both  at  morning  and  evening,  made  wi  ample 

19* 


^ 


V. 


Si 


, 


t.  if  ■'  • 


/ 


% 


■    / 
'f 

# 

4 


i 


kt.v       ' 


.t 


M» 


*il8  TOUll    BETWEEN    MARTFOKD   AND    (lUEBCC. 

amends,  and  we  found  as  much  light  as  we  left  be- 
hind us,  although  less  of  sunshine.  At  half  after 
five,  with  the  sun  down,  and  the  moon  at  the  full,  in 
the  firmament,  we  sit  at  the  dinner  table,  apparently 
In  broad  day  light. 

From  the  moment  the  sun  is  down,  every  thing 
becomes  silent  on  the  shore,  which  our  windows 
overlook,  and  the  murmurs  of  the  broad  St.  Law- 
rence, more  than  two  miles  wide,  immediately  be- 
fore us  and  a  little  way  to  the  right,  spreading  to 
five  or  six  miles  in  breadth,  are,  sometimes  for  an 
hour,  the  only  sounds  that  arrest  our  attention.  Ev- 
ery evening  since  we  have  been  iiere,  black  clouds 
and  splendid  moonlight  have  hung  over,  and  embel- 
lished this  tranquil  scene  ;  and,  on  two  of  those 
evenings  we  have  been  attracted  to  the  window,  by 
the  plaintive  Canadian  boat  son^.  In  one  instance, 
it  arose  from  a  solitary  voyager,  floating  in  his  light 
canoe,  which  occasionally  appeared  and  disappear- 
ed on  the  sparkling  river;  and,  in  its  distant  course 
seemed  no  larger  than  some  sportive  insect.  In 
another  instance,  a  larger  boat,  with  more  numc- 
irous,  and  lc>s  melodious  voicer^,  not  indeed  in  per- 
fcc^t  harmony  passed  nearer  to  the  shore,  and  gave 
additional  life  to  the  scene.  A  few  moments  after, 
the  moon  broke  out  from  a  throne  of  dark  clouds, 
and  seemed  to  convert  the  whole  expanse  of  water 
into  one  vast  sheet  of  glittering  silver,  and,  in  the 
very  brightest  spot,  at  the  distance  of  more  than  a 
mile,  again  appeared  u  solitary  boat,  but  too  dis- 


V 


!  m 


:bcc. 

ve  left  be- 
half after 
ihe  full,  in 
ipparently 

/ery  thing 
windows 
St.  Law- 
iiately  be- 
rcading  to 
nes  for  an 
tion.   Ev- 
ick  clouds 
nd  embel- 
of  those 
indow,  by 
;  instance, 
n  his  light 
lisappeai- 
int  course 
iscct.     In 
re  nu me- 
ed in  pcr- 
and  gave 
ents  after, 
k  clouds, 
;  of  water 
id,  in  the 
>rc  than  a 
t  too  dis- 


TOUR    BLTWEi::     HARTFORD    AND    QL'£n£C.    219 

tant  to  admit  of  our  hearing  the  song,  with  which 
the  boatman  was  probably  solacing  his  lonely 
course. 


r 


DAY  SCENES  ON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

The  mere  contemplation  of  a  river,  presenting 
such  a  broad  expanse  of  water,  at  the  distance  of 
five  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  is  interesting  and 
pleasing.  At  this  season  it  is  a  tranquil  scene,  but 
the  river  presents  very  considerable  diversity.  On 
our  right,  it  spreads  into  a  broad  lake,  generally 
smooth,  but,  in  numbers  of  places,  it  is  ruffled  by 
rapids,  and  broken  by  ledges  of  rocks ;  on  the  left, 
it  runs  with  great  rapidity,  between  the  island  of  St. 
Helena  and  the  city,  and  presents,  at  all  times,  a 
lively  and  magnificent  water  course. 

Occasionally;  sloops,  ships  and  steam  boats  are 
seen  on  the  river,  either  passing  rapidly  down,  or 
struggling  against  the  current ;  but  the  most  com- 
mon craft  of  the  river  is  of  every  size,  from  a  small 
canoe,  to  the  largest  boats  that  are  built  without 
decks. 

The  margin  of  the  river,  adjoining  the  city,  is,  at 
most  places  where  there  are  no  wharves,  lined  with 
floating  rafts,  and  separate  logs,  intended  both  for 
fuel  and  for  timber. 

A  scene  of  considerable  activity  is  exhibited  im- 


^ 


I 


,(  I* 


fe*' 


i   ,1 


/ 


220  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

mediately  before  our  terrace,  by  the  carts  and  hor- 
ses, which  are  driven  into  the  river,  as  far  as  is  ne- 
cessary, and  frequently  till  the  horses  can  hardly 
keep  their  feet ;  the  object  is  to  obtain  the  wood, 
which  is  thus  conveniently  loaded,  as  the  body  of 
the  cart  is  as  low  as  the  surface  of  the  river  ;  and 
single  sticks,  too  large  for  the  carts,  are  drawn  out 
separately  by  the  horses.  The  carts  are  also  used 
for  the  conveyance  of  water  casks,  to  supply  the 
city ;  the  horses  are  driven  into  the  water,  and  the 
casks  are  filled,  very  conveniently,  without  remov- 
ing them  from  the  cart. 

We  frequently  observed,  on  the  Sorel  river,  the 
French  women,  washing  at  the  river's  edge.  The 
same  employment  is  seen  here  before  our  windows. 
Sometimes  the  clothes  are  placed  on  boards,  in  the 
river,  and  pounded  ;  and,  at  other  times,  the  women 
dance  on  them,  dashing  the  water  about  like  ducks, 
and  seemingly  as  much  for  frolic  as  for  work.  All 
these  employments  are  attended  with  much  vocife- 
ration, and  contribute  to  give  life  and  interest  to  the 
quiet  scenes  of  a  great  inland  water. 

Some  of  the  circumstances  which  I  have  just 
mentioned,  are,  it  is  true,  trivial,  but  still,  they  tend 
to  characterise  the  country  and  its  inhabitants. 


PASSAGE  TO  QUEBEC. 

I  purposely  omit  to  make  any  other  remarks  on 
Montreal,  till  our  return  from  Quebec,  when  we  ex- 


r 


"^^        ifr 


UEBEC. 

ts  and  hor- 
ar  as  is  ne- 
can  hardly 

the  wood, 

he  body  of 

river ;  and 

drawn  out 

also  used 
supply  the 
sr,  and  the 
ut  remov- 

river,  the 
ge.     The 

windows, 
rds,  in  the 
he  women 
ike  ducks, 
I'ork.  AH 
oh  vocife- 
rest  to  the 

have  just 
they  tend 
tnts. 


TOUK  BETWEEN  HAUTPORD  AND  QUEBEC.  221 

pect  to  pass  several  days  more  in  this  city,  and  the 
observations  of  both  residences  may  be  so  blended, 
as,  in  a  good  degree,  to  avoid  repetition. 

We  remained  in  Montreal  three  days  and  a  half, 
and  went  on  board  the  steam-boat  to  lodge,  on  the 
night  of  the  fourth.  We  lay  quietly  at  the  wharf 
till  one  o'clock,  in  the  morning  of  the  fifth ;  and  when 
day  light  was  fully  disclosed,  we  had  passed  many 
miles  down  the  river,  and  were  impelled  rapidly 
forward,  by  the  united  force  of  steam  and  current. 
The  weather,  which,  the  day  before,  had  been  cold, 
became  delightful,  with  a  mild  soft  air,  and  a  bril- 
liant sun.  Nothing,  for  a  tame  scene,  could  be  finer 
than  the  one  which  surrounded  us  after  sun  rise. 
The  flat  shores  are  every  where  studded  with  white- 
washed cottages,  appearing,  (like  those  which  we 
had  seen  when  travelling  by  land,)  to  be  all  warm 
and  comfortable  ;  and,  at  the  distance  of  every  two 
or  three  miles,  appeared  a  little  snowy  village,  with 
its  glittering  tin  spire ;  if  it  included  a  house,  a  little 
superior  to  the  cottage,  that  was  also  covered  with 
the  same  material. 


it 


:'4     <i 


Ik- 


TOWN  OF  SOREL. 


marks  on 
m  we  ex- 


£arly  in  the  forenoon,  we  were  at  the  town  of 
Sorel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name. 
This  is  the  point  of  communication  between  Lake 


/^ 


222  TOUR  Between  haktford  and  Quebec. 


'I  I 


i 


Ghamplain  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is,  of  course, 
a  station  very  important  to  the  countries  on  these 
great  waters. 

At  this  place  we  were  detained  an  hour  to  take 
in  wood,  which  is  here,  as  in  the  United  States,  dry 
pine.  The  shore  is  so  bold,  that  the  boat  lies  at 
the  bank,  and  this  is  so  high,  that  the  wood  was 
thrown  down  upon  the  deck  with  a  good  deal  of 
violence,  so  as  to  endanger,  and  actually  to  break, 
tome  of  the  glass  in  the  sky-lights. 

We  went  on  shore,  and  walked  through  the 
principal  streets  of  the  town. 

The  town  of  Sorel,  or,  (as  it  is  sonaetimes  called,^ 
William  Henry,  stands  ^^  on  the  site  of  a  fort,  built 
in  the  year  1665,  by  order  of  Mons.  de  Tracy ;"  it 
was  intended  as  a  defence  against  the  incursions  of 
the  Indians,  and  received  its  name  of  Sorel,  from  a 
captain  of  engineers,  who  superintended  its  con- 
struction. 

The  present  town  was  begun  about  the  year  1 785, 
by  some  loyalists  and  disbanded  soldiers,  and  it 
continues  to  be  the  residence  of  many  old  military 
pensioners. 

Although  the  plan  of  the  town  occupies  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  acres,  the  number  of  hous- 
es does  not  much  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty, 
exclusive  of  stores,  barracks,  and  government 
buildings. 

The  plan  is  regular,  and  the  streets  intersect  at 
right  angles,  leaving  a  central  square,  of  more  than 


[JEBEC. 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    223 


of  course, 
s  on  these 

•ur  to  take 
States,  dry 
)oat  lies  at 
wood  was 
>od  deal  of 
Y  to  break, 

rough  the 

les  called,^ 
I  fort,  built 
Pracy;"  it 
:ur8ions  of 
rel,  from  a 
id  its  con- 
year  1 785, 
srs,  and  it 
Id  nnilitary 

pies  about 

er  of  hous- 

and  fifty, 

overnment 

ntersect  at 
more  than 


five  hundred  feet  on  a  side."*^  The  town  is  built 
principally  of  wood,  and  the  aspect  of  many  of  the 
buildings  is  more  like  that  of  an  Anglo-American 
town,  than  any  thing  that  we  have  seen  in  Canada. 
The  population  is  about  fifteen  hundred.  The 
churches  are  of  stone.  We  visited  that  of  the  Cath- 
olics,  which  is  somewhat  ornamented  with  pictures, 
but  cannot  be  considered  as  particularly  handsome. 
We  found  people  at  their  devotions,  and  a  priest 
in  attendance. 

Sorel  was  occupied  by  General  Thomas,  in  May, 
1776,  with  the  greater  part  of  the  American  army, 
on  their  retreat  from  before  Quebec.  Here  Gen- 
eral Thomas  died  of  the  small  pox. 

The  river  Sorel  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
broad,  opposite  to  the  town,  but  it  presents  a  singu- 
lar example  of  a  river,  much  narrower  at  its  em- 
bouchure, than  at  its  origin ;  it  is  more  than  four 
times  as  wide  at  St.  John^s,  as  at  Sorel,  and  contin- 
ues to  widen  all  the  way  up  the  stream,  to  the  Lake 
Champlain ;  from  St.  John's,  there  is  also  a  ship 
navigation  into  the  lake;  but,  from  the  town  of  So- 
rel, vessels  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons  ascend 
only  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  f 

From  the  town  of  Sorel,  we  proceeded  among  a 
great  many  islands,  and,  after  passing  a  few  miles, 
entered  that  great  expanse  of  the  river,  which  is 
ten  miles  wide,  and  twenty  miles  long,  and  i^  called 
the  lake  of  St.  Peter.     It  has,  indeed,  a  very  great 


*  Bouchette 


t  Bouchette. 


' 


// 


B  1 


/ 


224   TOUR  BETWBEN   HARTPORD   ANP    QUEISEC. 

resemblance  to  a  lake,  being  smooth,  and  withoui 
apparent  motion. 

We  felt,  as  we  had  done  in  Lake  Champlain,  that 
this  must  be  Long-Island  Sound,  and  here,  indeed, 
the  resemblance  is  much  greater,  as  the  water  is 
green,  like  the  ocean.  The  water  is,  of  course, 
shallow,  and  some  caution  is  necessary,  to  avoid 
running  aground.  The  shores  are  very  flat  and 
swampy,  and,  in  a  hot  climate,  would  probably  be 
sickly. 

At  the  large  town  of  Three  Rivers,  where  we 
arrived  by  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  which 
is  half  way  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  we 
stopped  in  the  stream  a  few  minutes,  to  take  in 
passengers.  There  were  some  ships  lying  at  this 
place,  but  there  is  no  harbor,  other  than  the  stream, 
nor  did  1  observe  any  accommodations  for  ships, 
except  the  naked  banks  of  the  river.  This  town  is 
the  third  i:ti  the  province,  but  very  far  behind  the 
other  two ;  it  contains  about  three  hundred  and 
twenty  houses,  and  two  thousand,  five  hundred  in- 
habitants ;  it  extends  about  one  thousand,  three 
hundred  yards  along  the  river,  and  was  founded  in 
1618.* 

Proceeding  down  the  river,  we  continued  to  en- 
joy a  delightful  day's  sail,  with  a  perfect  Indian 

summer.     Mr.  W and  myself  had  a  large  state 

room  to  ourselves,  where  we  could  retire  in  per- 
fect seclusion,  whenever  we  did  not  choose  to  be 

*Bouchette. 


1 


*' 


id  wilhoiu 

iplain,  that 
re,  indeed, 
e  water  is 
of  course, 
,  to  avoid 
y  flat  and 
■obably  be 

where  we 
and  which 
jebec,  we 
to  take  in 
ing  at  this 
he  stream, 
for  ships, 
bis  town  is 
tehind  the 
idred  and 
ndred  in- 
nd,  three 
Dunded  in 

led  to  en- 
ct  Indian 
arge  state 
'e  in  per- 
use to  be 


TOUR    UETWELN    UAllTFOUU    AND    QUEBEC.  225 

among  the  passengers,  who,  however,  were  few  and 
civil,  and,  as  the  boat  was  very  large,  we  had  none 
of  the  inconveniences  of  a  crowd.  I  occupied  a 
good  deal  of  the  day  in  writing,  as  the  scenery  had 
a  very  great  degree  of  sameness,  and  from  the  win- 
dows I  could  catch  a  glimpse  of  its  changes,  so  as  to 
go  seasonably  on  deck,  and  pot  to  lose  any  impor- 
tant object. 

Towards  evening,  when  we  were  just  above  the 
Richelieu  Rapids,  and  the  surface  of  the  river  ex- 
tremely smooth,  the  captain  pointed  out  a  large 
seal,  sleeping  on  the  water,  at  the  distance  of  per- 
haps two  or  three  hundred  yards.  He  fired  at  it 
five  or  six  times,  without  effect ;  we  could  see  the 
balls  strike  the  water,  very  near  the  seal,  but  the 
animal  did  not  even  awake,  or  change  its  position. 

As  the  Rapids  of  Richelieu,  where  the  river  is 
very  narrow,  and  the  current  rushes  tumultuously 
over  a  rocky  bottom,  are  esteemed  dangerous  for 
ni^ht  navigation,  and  as  it  was  already  evening,  we 
cast  anchor  to  wait  the  return  of  day.  'I'his  was 
just  what  we  could  have  wished,  for,  had  we  contin- 
ued on  our  course,  we  must  have  arrived  at  Quebec 
in  the  night,  and  thus  have  lost  the  noble  scenery 
of  the  approach  to  this  city.  We  had  also  the  addi- 
tional advantage  of  a  night  of  perfect  quiet  and  se- 
curity, undisturbed  by  the  jar  of  the  machinery,  or 
the  trampling  of  the  people.  Indeed,  had  we  been 
in  motion,  we  should  have  felt  very  secure  at  night, 

for  the  fire  and  the  boiler  were  as  far  from  us,  as 

20 


r 


\  ^ 


9 


——(.*" 


— ..^- 


226    TOUR    BETWEEN'    HARTFORD    AND    ftUEBEft. 


^ 


■M 


the  whole  length  of  a  common  European  ship,  and 
no  accident  has  ever  happened  in  this  river. 

In  the  morning  we  were  again  under  way,  as  soon 
as  we  could  see  sufficiently  to  avoid  the  rocks, 
which  are  so  numerous  here,  that  day  light  is  almost 
indispensable  to  a  safe  passage.  It  was  a  perfect 
May  morning,  with  the  finest,  softest  splendor  of  an 
Indian  summer,  so  that  we  had  every  inducement, 
and  every  opportunity  to  observe  the  various  inter- 
esting objects  that  occurred.  By  this  time  we  had 
become  familiar,  and  acquainted  with  several  of  our 
fellow-passengers,  among  whom,  were  English  mil- 
itary and  naval  men,  Quebec  me  rchants,  and  a  Ro- 
man Catholic  ecclesiastic.  The  latter  came  on 
board  at  the  Three  Rivers,  and  appeared  a  mild 
and  amiable  man.  From  our  other  companions,  to 
whom  vve  made  known  our  country,  and  our  views 
in  travelling,  we  received  every  desired  informa- 
tion, and  the  most  obliging  civilities.  The  military 
gentlemen,  particularly,  were  very  courteous,  and, 
as  they  were  not  only  acquainted  with  Canada,  but 
had  seen  much  of  other  countries,  and  of  foreign 
mUitary  adventures,  they  were  very  interesting^  and 
instructive.  One  of  them  had  witnessed  in  person, 
some  of  Wellington's  victories,  and  another,  a  man 
of  most  original  and  attractive  character,  and  ap- 
parently o(warm  piety,  had  been  not  less  occupied, 
in  the  East-Indies,  in  promoting  schemes  of  benev- 
olence, than  in  the  ^>ursuit  of  arms.  Having  been 
warned  that  Quebec  would  burst  upon  us,  all  of  a 


lip,  and 

r. 

,  as  soon 

rocks, 
s  almost 

perfect 
or  of  an 
cement, 
us  inter- 
I  we  had 
al  of  oar 
lish  mil- 
id  a  Ro- 
;ame  on 
1  a  mild 
nions,  to 
UP  views 
informa- 

military 
3US,  and, 
lada,  but 
f  foreign 
tin^  and 
1  person, 

,  a  man 

and  ap- 
iccupied, 

f benev- 
ing  been 
,  all  of  a 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HAUTFOUD    AND  (QUEBEC.    227 

sudden,  and  that  we  were  drawing  near  to  it,  our 
eyes  now  gazed  in  no  other  direction,  and  our 
thoughts  became  entirely  fixed  upon  that  object. 


\  I 


I    ' 


APPROACH  TO  QUEBEC. 

Oct.  6. — This  seat  of  ancient  dominion — now 
hoary  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries — 
formerly  the  seat  of  a  French  empire  in  the  west — 
lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and  of 
illustrious  commanders — throned  on  a  rock,  and 
defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance  of  war — who 
could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion  ?  —Who 
in  America  has  not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the 
water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec  ! 

On  approaching  this  city,  about  the  middle  of  the 
day,  we  enjoyed  the  most  propitious  circumstances 
of  light  and  weather. 

From  Cape  Rouge,  on  our  left,  (seven  miles 
above  Quebec,)  there  is  an  uninterrupted  range  of 
high  ground,  rising  even  into  hills  and  precipices. 
Cape  Rouge  is  so  called,  from  its  red  color — the 
precipitous  bank  being  stained,  probably,  by  oxid 
of  iron,  so  as  to  give  it,  for  miles,  a  reddish  hue. 

The  land  grew  higher  and  higher;  we  passed 
the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  six  miles  from 
Quebec,  on  our  right,  where  a  number  of  ships 
were  waiting  to  take  in  timber,  and  we  watched 
every  moment  for  the  appearance  of  the  great  for- 


'  I  '•'/ 


'"?.-*»'*—■• '-aacrv***!*; -t^  ■"■*  ~ '"■ . 


# 

\  — 
t 


'i 


^28  TOWR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEDEr 


4     !' 


trcss  of  the  north,  while  onn  of  our  mihtary  ac- 
f|uaintances  pointed  out  to  us  the  various  interest- 
ing objects,  as  we  came  up  with  them  in  succession. 
At  length  we  descried  the  towers  of  Quebec,  stand- 
ing on  a  rock  of  three  hundred  and  forty-feet  in 
height,  measured  from  the  river. 

I  have  already  remarked  that  the  banks,  (espe- 
cially the  north  one,)  are,  for  miles  above  the  city, 
very  precipitous,  and  they  grow  more  so  the  near- 
er we  approach.  About  two  miles  from  Quebec, 
we  were  shown  Sillery  river  and  cove,  and  within 
one  mile,  or  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  city,  Wolfe's 
cove,  now  filled  with  lumber  and  ships.  This  name 
has  been  derived,  from  the  fact,  that  here  General 
Wolfe,  under  cover  of  night,  landed  his  army,  un- 
perceived  by  the  French,  and  clambering  up  the 
precipice,  gained  the  heights  of  Abraham. 

Three  round  towers  of  stone,  mounted  with  can- 
non and  standing  on  these  heights,  in  advance  of 
the  other  works  of  Quebec,  are  th3  first  objects  that 
strike  the  eye ;  then  the  high  walls  of  stone,  cover- 
ed with  heavy  artillery,  and  which,  as  we  come 
nearer  to  the  city,  we  perceive  to  extend  all  along, 
upon  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  of  naked  rock,  of 
more  than  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  di- 
vides the  lower  from  the  upper  town.  On  our 
right  was  the  ground  on  the  south-eastern  side  j" 
the  river,  called  Point  Levi.  This  also  is  a  preci- 
pice of  rock,  but  rather  less  elevated  than  Cape 
Diamond,  on  which  the  citadel  of  Quebec  is  built. 


^iisr- . 


^•— »-^ 


>}■ 


'    » 


E«  . 

tary  ac- 

nterest- 
cession. 
:,  stand- 
s-feet in 

3,  (espe- 
the  city, 
he  near- 
Quebec, 
d  within 

Wolfe's 
his  name 

General 
rmy,  un- 
g  up  the 

vith  can- 
Ivance  of 
ects  that 
,  cover- 
vre  come 
I  along, 
rock,  of 
hich  di- 
On  our 
side  3" 
a  preci- 
ii  Cape 
is  built. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  229 

Point  Levi  is  now  covered  with  brilliant  white  hou- 
sed. In  the  year  1759,  General  Monckton,  by  or- 
der of  General  Wolfe,  erected  his  batteries  there, 
to  bombard  Quebec. 

PRINT  NO.  5. 

This  sketch,  taken  by  Mr.  W ,  from  the 

steam-boat,  was  commenced,  about  three  or  four 
miles  above  the  city,  and  when  we  were  passing 
every  moment,  rapidly  along.  It  was  unavoidably 
subjected  to  the  disadvantage  of  constant  change  of 
position  ;  but,  as  it  fortunately  happened,  this  cir- 
cumstance rather  augmented  the  distinctness,  than 
altered  the  relative  position  of  the  principal  objects. 

On  the  right,  is  exhibited  part  of  the  promonto- 
ry of  Point  Levi,  with  a  glimpse  of  a  few  of  the 
houses  and  ships  at  its  foot.  In  the  remote  view, 
down  the  river,  are  seen  some  of  the  highlands,  be- 
yond the  falls  of  Montmorenci,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  and  at  the  distance  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
miles.  Immediately  before  the  observer,  is  the 
smooth  expanse  of  the  river,  with  some  of  the  nu- 
merous ships  and  boats  that  adorn  its  surface. 

On  the  left,  and  nearest  at  hand,  a  beautiful 
copse  of  wood,  with  some  buildings  at  its  (eetf  just 
intercepts  the  view  of  Wolfe's  cove,  which  lies  be- 
tween this  grove  and  the  high  bank  on  which  stands 
the  nearest  round  tower ;  only  the  opening  of  the 
cove  is  seen.     Then  come  the  heights,  on  which 


./ 


h 


^\ 


m 


€ 


•*a:i--^ 


> 


230  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

are  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and  upon  them  the  Mar- 
tello  towers,  two  of  which  only  are,  from  this  posi- 
tion, visible  ;  the  view  of  two  others  is  cut  off  by 
the  intervening  heights.  Further  on,  appears  Cape 
Diamond,  composed  of  almost  perpendicular  pre- 
cipices of  naked  rock,  three  hundred  and  forty-five 
feet  in  the  greatest  height.  The  walls  and  towers 
of  massy  stone,  pierced  and  cut  down  for  embra- 
sures, and,  crowned  with  the  flag-staff  and  colors 
that  appear  on  this  Cape,  constitute  the  Citadel 
OF  Quebec.  Immediately  at  the  foot  of  this 
precipice,  is  the  commencement  of  the  lower 
town  which  is  continued  around  the  foot  of  the 
rock;  only  a  very  small  part  of  it,  and  no  portion 
of  the  houses  of  the  upper  town  is  visible  from  this 
point  of  view. 


-5 

■i 
n 


■K- 


* 


Arrived  in  the  bay  of  Quebec,  we  found  it 
swarming  with  ships,  and  presienting  every  appear- 
ance of  a  great  seat  of  commerce.  The  bay  is  a 
beautiful  piece  of  water,  looking  like  a  perfect  lake, 
with  most  nobly  formed  swelling  shores.  It  is 
bounded  by  the  ground  just  mentioned — by  the  Isle 
of  Orleans,  four  miles  down  the  river,  and  by  a  de- 
lightful country,  on  the  north,  and  north-east,  inter- 
sected by  the  Montmorenci  and  St.  Charles'  rivers, 
which  fall  into  the  bay;  the  ground  slopes  with 
charming  declivity  to  the  water,  around  which  it 


I'  ' 


'-if- 


"^r^rfuif. 


>   ■;■; 


EC. 

he  Mar- 
his  posi- 
it  off  by 
irs  Cape 
liar  pre- 
brty-five 
d  towers 
r  embra- 
)d  colors 
Citadel 
of   this 
le    lower 
t  of  the 
0  portion 
from  this 


found  it 
J  appear- 

bay  is  a 
feet  lake, 
IS.  It  is 
y  the  Isle 

by  a  de- 
ast,  inter- 
L's'  rivers, 
•pes   with 

which  it 


V 

'I 


i.  L-  :y  •> 


i» 


■^. 


•M  . 


(';  ^  . 


' 

^ 

• 

-    ■♦ ' 

•H" 

f 

I 

« 

c 
c 

S( 

1 

e 
d 
tl 

.#•' 

tl 

■^ 

( 

\ 
'■  1 

.      ;. 

.- 

— 

It 

1 

h 
tl 
tl 
b 
V 

I  f 


r      V, 


i-^r-ji,- 


'■if 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  231 

sweeps  gracefully  like  a  bow,  and  presents  in  a  long 
circuit,  so  many  snow-white  cottages — handsome 
country  houses,  and  fine  populous  villages,  that  it 
seems  for  leagues   almost  one   continued   street. 
The  land  is  finely  cultivated,  and  even  now,  is  cov- 
ered with  the  deepest  verdure,  and  sprinkled  with 
dandelions  in  full  bloom.     Back  of  this  fine  amphi- 
theatre of  rural  beauty,  ranges  of  mountains  stretch 
their  shaggy  summits,  and  limit  the  view.     The 
harbor   is   one    of  the   grandest  imaginable,   and 
the  whole    scene  resembles    extremely   the    pic- 
tures of  the  bay  of  Naples,  to  which,  it  is  said 
by  competent  judges,  to  bear  a  strong  resemblance. 
We  had  scarcely  time  to  admire  this  fine  scene,  be- 
fore we  were  moored  at  the  dock  in  the  lower  town, 
)   the  midst  of  all  the  din  of  a  crowded  port. — 
vrliile  we  were  waiting  for  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments to  land,  we  had  a  few  moments  to  contem- 
plate the  new  scene  before  us.     Contiguous,  was 
the  lower  town,  skirting  the  upper,  and  embracing 
the  feet  of  its  rocky  precipices.     It  makes  a  circuit 
of,  I  should  imagine,  almost  two  miles,  and  is  crowd- 
ed in  the  most  compact  manner  possible,  on  a  nar- 
row strip  of  land,  between  the  precipices  and  the 
St.  Lawrence.     The  houses  are  so  far  below  the 
walls  of  the  upper  town,  that  a  stone  could  be  drop- 
ped into  the  chimnies  of  the  nearest,  and  it  would, 
in  most  places,  fall  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  the 
air,  before  it  reached  its  object. 

One  of  the  most  striking  objects  before  our  eyes 
was  the  castle  of  St.  Louis — the  residence  of  the 


<    1 


/ 


IT     M 

ill  ife 


i 


n) 


«'' 


■•^ 


I  / 


I  ^'' 


>'  I . 


232  TOFR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

governor.  It  is  a  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  long, 
forty-five  broad,  and  three  stories  high.  It  stands 
(almost  impending  over  the  lower  town,)  upon 
the  very  verge  of  the  giddy  precipice  of  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  and  lofty  pillars  are  built  up 
from  the  rock  below  to  support  its  gallery,  which 
runs  the  whole  length  of  the  building.  It  is  a  plain 
yellow  structure  of  stone,  and  now  exhibits  no  ap- 
pearance of  a  castle,  although  it  was  a  fortress  under 
the  French  government. 

From  the  castle,  an  observer  may  look  down 
perpendicularly  upon  the  houses  of  the  lower  town, 
and  see  all  the  confusion,  even  to  the  motion  of  a 
dog;  all  the  offensive,  as  well  as  agreeable  objects 
of  a  crowded  port — the  grotesque  assemblage  of 
buildings, peculiar  (as  is  said)  to  an  old  French  town; 
he  may  hear  the  rumbling  of  carts  and  drays,  and 
the  jargon  of  different  languages,  and  he  will  inhale 
the  smoke  and  gases  from  a  crowd  of  chimnies,  ris- 
ing to  the  foot  of  the  building  on  which  he  stands. 

On  the  right  of  the  castle,  the  massy  walls  appear 
again,  and  the  black  artillery,  pointing  over  the  par- 
apet, look  like  beasts  of  prey,  crouching,  and  ready 
to  leap  upon  their  victims. 

We  soon  landed,  under  the  auspices  of  Captain 
— — -,  (our  newly  acquired  military  friend,)  who 
politely  showed  us  our  lodgings,  in  St.  John's  street, 
had  our  baggage  conveyed  to  them  by  his  own 
servant,  and  called  soon  after  to  inquire  for  our 
welfare. 


DEC. 

feet  long, 
It  stands 
n,)  upon 
two  hun- 
I  built  up 
y,  which 
is  a  plain 
its  no  ap- 
ess  under 

»ok  down 
wer  town, 
)tion  of  a 
le  objects 
nblage  of 
nch  town; 
rays,  and 
^ill  inhale 
nnies,  ris- 
ic  stands, 
lis  appear 
r  the  par- 
and  ready 

f  Captain 
•nd,)  who 
n's  street, 
y  his  own 
re  for  our 


I        1 


\  .'1 

I: 


^  c 


I 


!i| 


i 


t 


/    I 


U'l 


^ 


I  l(i 


k  f 


/ 


y 


j^i 


v     » 


v-' 


■^m  • 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    <iUEBEC,    133 


^ 


PRINT  NO.  6. 

This  view  was  taken  from  the  steam-boat,  while, 
still  other  steam-boats  and  vessels  were  between 
it  and  the  wharf,  and  they  are  the  nearest  objects 
which  we  observe  at  the  bottom  of  the  picture.* — 
Then  come  the  buildings  in  the  most  crowded  and 
bustling  part  of  the  lower  town,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered (with  a  considerable  omissh  ..  of  houses  fur- 
ther to  the  left,)  as  a  continuation  of  the  commence^ 
ment  of  the  lower  town,  seen  at  the  foot  of  Cape 
Diamond,  in  print  No.  5. 

In  the  present  print  we  see,  immediately  before 
us,  confused  piles  of  houses  and  stores,  built,  in 
many  instances,  in  the  old  French  style,  v/ilh  steep 
high  roofs,  having  two  or  more  rows  of  dormant 
windows. 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  extreme  left,  is  Cape 
Diamond,  with  a  part  of  the  citadel  in  view,  crown- 
ed with  a  flag  and  telegraph.  On  the  right  of 
these,  are  a  few  of  the  houses  of  the  upper  town, 
and  almost  immediately  before  us,  the  elevated 
castle  of  St.  Louis,  with  its  gallery,  supported  by 
high  pillars  of  stone,  springing  from  the  rocks  below. 

Still  further  on  the  right,  we  observe  other  hous- 
es in  the  upper  town,  (only  the  nearest  edge  of 
which  is,  however,  visible,)  and  on  the  extreme 
right,  is  a  spire  of  one  of  the  Catholic  churches. 

*  The  wall  and  arched  passage,  on  the  nearest  part  ofthe  shore, 
•re  not  copied,  but  are  from  fancy. 


'■m 


> 


I 


rir 


1 


1 34    TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

ENTRANCE  INTO  QUEBEC. 

As  we  passed  along  the  streets  of  the  lower  town, 
I  could  well  have  thought  that  we  were  in  the  Wap- 
ping  of  London.  A  swarming  population,  among 
whom  sailors  were  conspicuous ;  the  cheering 
heigho!  of  the  latter,  working  in  the  ships;  the  va- 
rious merchandize  crowded  into  view,  in  front  of 
the  shops  and  warehouses ;  the  narrow  compact 
streets,  absolutely  full  of  buildings ;  the  rattling  of 
innumerable  carts  and  drays,  and  all  the  jargon  of 
discordant  voices  and  languages,  would  scarcely 
permit  us  to  believe  that  we  were  arrived  in  a  remote 
corner  of  the  civilized  world. 

We  did  not  feel  so  absolutely  like  strangers,  as 
we  should  have  done,  without  the  countenance  of 
the  captain.  I  have  already  mentioned,  that  a  for- 
tuitous acquaintance  with  this  gentleman,  on  board 
the  steam-boat,  and  an  incidental  disclosure  to  him 
of  our  views  in  visiting  Canada,  led  to  a  good  deal 
of  intimacy,  and,  on  his  part,  to  offers  of  service. 

He  is  a  captain  of ;  is  still  a  young  man,  and 

being  open,  frank,  and  friendly  in  his  deportment, 
he  won  our  confidence,  and  did  not  withhold  his 
own.  We  learned,  that  he  served  in  the  peninsu- 
lar war,  both  under  Sir  John  Moore,  and  under 
Wellington  ;  he  was  with  the  former,  when  he  fell, 
in  the  flight  of  the  British  army  from  Corunna,  and 
with  the  latter,  on  various  distinguished  occasion*;. 


'A 


m 


% 


IBEC. 


wer  town, 

1  the  Wap- 
>n,  among 

cheering 
s ;  the  va- 
in front  of 
V  compact 
rattling  of 

2  jargon  of 
d  scarcely 

in  a  remote 

rangers,  as 
ntenance  of 
,  that  a  for- 
n,  on  board 
sure  to  him 
a  pfood  deal 
,  of  service, 
ig  man,  and 
leportment, 
withhold  his 
le  peninsu- 
and  under 
hen  he  fell, 
orunnH,  and 
d  occasions. 


TdUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  236 

His  wife,  a  very  fine  young  woman,  who,  with 
another  lady,  had  come  to  the  wharf  to  receive 
him,  joined  us,  and,  with  this  pleasant  little  party, 
we  entered  Quebec. 

The  first  street  of  the  lower  town,  along  which 
we  passed,  came  to  an  abrupt  termination,  the  last 
house  standing  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  when, 
turning  suddenly  to  the  right,  into  a  street,  one  of 
whose  sides  was  overhung  by  the  frowning  rock, 
we  soon  came  to  a  foot  passage  of  stairs,  made  of 
plank,  very  steep  and  high,  and  furnished  with  iron 
railings;  this  passage  terminated  in  Mountain  street, 
as  it  is  called,  from  the  steepness  of  the  ascent.  It 
is  the  only  passage  from  this  side  into  the  upper 
town,  and  it  was  by  no  means  an  easy  task  to  as- 
cend it,  even  on  a  good  foot  pavement. 

In  the  mean  time,  we  admired  the  strength  and 
agility  of  the  little  Canadian  horses,  which,  with 
heavily  loaded  carts  at  their  heels,  perseveringly 
scramble  up  this  arduous  ascent,  and  with  still 
greater  care  and  firmness,  sustain  their  ponderous 
vehicles  when  descending,  and  prevent  them  from 
hurrying  themselves  and  their  burdens,  headlong 
down  the  steep. 

The  castle  of  St.  Louis,  (literally  a  castle  in  the 
air,)  was  now  seen  immediately  above  our  heads, 
on  the  left,  at  the  distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet.  It  is  completely  on  the  edge  of  the  precipice, 
which  overhangs  the  lower  town,  and  from  its  dan- 
gerous pre-eminence,  appears  ready  to  p-^rticipate 


i-'-'' 


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236   tUUli   BKTWKEH  HARTFORD  AND  CtUBBEC. 

in  the  destruction  which  it  seems  threatening  to  all 
below. 

We  now  passed  the  grand  Prescot  Gate,  under 
ponderous  arches  of  stone,  of  great  thickness  and 
weight,  and  entered  the  upper  town. 

The  impression  of  every  thing  was  completely 
foreign  from  any  thing  that  we  see  in  the  United 
States.  Buildings  of  wood,  and  even  of  brick,  are 
almost  entirely  unknown.  Stone,  either  rough  from 
the  quarry,  or  covered  with  white  cement,  or  hewn 
according  to  the  taste  and  condition  of  the  proprie- 
tor, is  almost  the  only  material  for  building ;  roofs, 
in  many  instances,  and  generally  on  the  better  sort 
of  buildings,  glittering,  with  tin  plate,  with  which 
they  are  neatly  covered  ;  and  turrets  and  steeples, 
pouring  a  flood  of  light  from  the  same  substance  ; 
these  are  among  the  first  things  that  strike  the  eyes* 
of  a  stranger,  entering  the  city  of  Quebec. 

If  from  the  United  States,  he  sees  a  new  popu- 
lation, and,  to  a  great  extent,  a  completely  foreign 
people,  with  French  faces  and  French  costume; 
the  French  language  salutes  his  ear,  as  the  common 
tongue  of  the  streets  and  shops  :  in  short,  he  per- 
ceives that,  even  in  the  very  capital,  there  is  onlj 
a  sprinkling  of  English  population ;  it  is  still  a 
French  city;  and^he  Cathedral,  the  extenr-ive  col- 
lege of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  for  barracks,  and  most 
of  the  public  buildings  and  private  houses,  are 
French.  He  sees  troops  mingled,  here  and  there, 
with  the  citizens;  he  perceives  the  British  uniform. 


_.. -^. 


CBEC. 

ining  to  alt 

late,  under 
ckness  and 

completely 
the  United 
f  brick,  are 
rough  from 

Et,  or  hewn 
e  proprie- 
ing ;  roofs, 

better  sort 
nrith  which 
id  steeples, 
substance ; 
ke  the  eyes 
ec. 

new  popu- 
tely  foreign 
h  costume; 
he  common 
ort,  he  per- 
tiere  is  onl} 
it  is  still  a 
tensive  col- 
[s,  and  most 
liouses,  are 
J  and  there, 
ish  uniform. 


TOUR  EETWEBN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  f3T 

and  the  German  in  the  British  service,  which  remind 
him  that  the  country  has  masters,  different  from 
the  mass  of  its  population,  and  although  the  milita- 
ry are,  obviously,  not  subjects  of  terror  to  the  citi- 
zens, the  first  impression  borders  on  melancholy, 
when  we  see  these  memorials  of  an  empire  fallen, 
and  of  an  empire  risen  in  its  stead.  Sixty  years 
have  done  little  towards  obliterating  the  Gallic  fea- 
tures of  the  country,  and  with  a  pleasure  very  rare- 
ly experienced  in  similar  cases,  we  involuntarily 
revolve  in  our  minds,  here  is  a  country  conquered, 
though  not  oppressed.  m 

Trumpets  and  bugles  now  startle  us  with  a  sud- 
den burst  of  martial  music,  and  we  can  hardly  be- 
lieve that  we  are  not  arrived  in  a  fortified  town  of 
Europe. 


ft  was  a  fine  morning,  (October  7th,)  and,  as  we 
were  about  to  avail  ourselves  of  this  favorable 
weather,  to  visit  some  parts  of  the  environs  of  Que- 
bec, I  will  first  describe  our  carriage,  which  was 

THE  CANADIAN  CALASH. 

This  is  not  unlike  an  American  chaise  or  gig,  but 
is  built  much  stouter,  and  with  or  without  a  top ;  the 
horse  is  much  farther  from  the  body  of  the  carriage, 
and  this  allows  room  for  a  driver,  whose  seat  rests 

21 


Vf        ll 


l!     ' 


\ 


)•  1 


238  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBVC. 


¥ 


:^' 


on  the  front  or  foot  board,  of  that  part  of  the  vehi- 
cle in  which  we  ride ;  this  foot  board,  after  sloping 
in  the  usual  manner,  then  rises  perpendicularly,  to 
such  a  height,  as  to  sustain  the  seat ;  high  sides  are 
also  furnished  to  the  part  where  the  feet  rest  in  a 
common  chaise,  and  thus  children  and  baggage  are 
secured  from  falling  out.  The  calash  carries  two 
grown  persons  on  the  seat  within,  besides  the  driver, 
who  is  often  a  man ;  his  seat,  and  the  board  which  sup- 
ports it,  fall,  by  means  of  hinges,  when  the  passengers 
are  to  get  in,  and  the  board  and  seat  are  then  hook- 
ed up  again  to  their  place,  when  the  driver  mounts. 
In  such  a  machine,  which  is  the  most  common  vehi- 
cle of  the  country,  and  is  sometimes,  as  in  the  pre- 
sent instance,  made  clumsily  handsome,  we  made 
our  first  excursion  from  Quebec. 

Our  driver  was  Michael  Gouvan,  a  very  intelli- 
gent and  obliging  young  man,  a  French  Canadian, 
who  spoke  both  English  and  French ;  and  his  horse, 
(an  iron  gray,)  was  one  of  that  small,  but  hardy 
breed,  which  being,  in  this  country,  left  in  their 
natural  state,  are  extremely  stout  and  courageous, 
and  carry  the  heavy  calash,  and  three  men,  appa- 
rently with  more  ease,  than  our  horses  draw  our 
gigs,  and  two  grown  persons. 


(u 


It' 


EXCURSION  TO  BEAUPORT  AND  MONTMORENCI. 

I  have  already  observed  that  it  was  a  very  fine 
morning ;  the  temperature  was  mild,  and  the  skies 


i^ 


BBVC. 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   QUEBEi;.    239 


the  vehi- 
T  sloping 
iilarly,  to 
sides  are 
rest  in  a 
rgage  are 
rries  two 
le  driver, 
hich  sup- 
issengers 
en  hook- 
r  mounts, 
non  vehi- 
the  pre- 
we  made 

•y  intelli- 
/anadian, 
bis  horse, 
ut  hardy 
:  in  their 
irageous, 
n,  appa- 
iraw  our 


)RENCI. 

very  fine 
the  skies 


bright,  with  a  balmy  softness  in  the  atmosphere,  ac- 
companied by  a  slight  haziness;  it  is  exactly  like 
our  Indian  summer,  and  indeed,  they  here  call  this 
kind  of  weather  by  the  same  name ;  we  could  not 
have  had  a  more  acceptable  time  for  our  little  jour- 
ney of  nine  miles,  to  the  falls  of  Montmorenci. 

We  passed  out  at  the  gate  St.  John,  on  the  north 
western  side  of  the  town ;  it  stands  at  the  head  of 
the  street  of  the  same  name,  and  leads  to  a  very  ex- 
tensive and  populous  suburb,  '^ituated  entirely  with- 
out  the  walls.  This  suburb  exhibits  many  new  and 
good  buildings,  and  appears  modern.  We  soon 
reached  the  beautiful  meadows^  north-east  of  Que- 
bec, through  which  flows  the  river  Charles  On 
our  left,  was  an  extensive  nunnery,  quite  Iry  itself, 
in  the  fields  j  it  appears  to  be  the  sarr,  described  bj 
Charlevoix,  nearly  a  century  ago,  i  nder  the  name 
of  the  hospital. 

For  four  miles,  we  passed  through  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  meadows  which  I  have  ever  seen  5 
they  were  neatly  divided  into  small  enclosures,  by 
stakes  driven  into  the  ground,  and  secured  at  top, 
by  a  rail,  fastened  with  withes  ;  the  meadows  were 
covered  with  thriving  cattle :  they  were  still  rich  in 
deep  verdure,  and  woulrli  h  ve  adorned  the  banks 
of  the  Connecticut,  or  of  the  Thames.  The  road 
through  them,  was  much  cut  up  by  wheels,  as  this 
is  a  great  thorou^h-f  ire  into  Quebec,  and  the  land 
is  naturally  moist  and  rich.  Houses  were  scattered 
here  and  Ihere,  upon  the  meadows,  and  when  we 


^  V 


I 


I 


w 

rt 


240  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC* 

began  to  ascend  the  rising  ground,  we  entered  the 
extensive  village  of  Beauport* 

This  village,  consisting  of  sixty  or  seventy  hou- 
ses, is  built  principally  on  one  street,  of  four  or  five 
miles  in  length,  and  extends  quite  to  the  river 
Montmorenci ;  it  is  one  of  those,  which  I  mention- 
ed as  making  so  brilliant  an  appearance  from  the 
bay  of  Quebec.  The  farms  and  garden  grounds  of 
this  village  are  "all  in  a  flourishing  state,  and  the 
orchards,  and  occasional  clumps  of  trees,  combine 
to  render  it  one  of  the  picasantest  roads  in  the  en- 
virons of  Quebec.  This  village  is  the  residence 
of  many  families  of  respectability."* 

The  houses  are  generally  of  stone,  covered  with 
a  cement,  and  white  washed,  roof  and  all;  this 
gives  lliein  a  very  nt^at  appearance,  and  makes 
them  look  very  brilliant,  even  at  a  considerble  dis- 
tance ;  commonly  they  are  of  one  story,  sometimes 
of  two,  and  inside  they  appeared  very  comfortable. 
The  windows,  as  is  generally  the  fact  in  the  French 
houses,  are  divided,  up  and  down,  in  the  middle, 
and  swing,  like  doors  on  hinges. 

There  is  in  this  village,  a  large  and  showy 
church,  with  three  steeples,  and  on  entering  it,  we 
found  solitary  individuals  at  their  private  devotions, 
orossing  themselves  with  holy  water,  and  silently 
moving  their  lips.  This  church  contained  a  num* 
ber  of  pictures,  and  they  vtrere  ornamenting  its  ceil- 
ing with  golden  roses. 


*  Bouohette. 


ired  the 

nty  hou- 
ir  or  five 
the  river 
mention- 
fro  m  the 
'ounds  of 
y  and  the 
combine 
n  the  en- 
'esidencc 

ired  with 

all;  thi» 

d  makes 
srble  dis- 

)metimes 
ifortable. 
e  French 
middle, 

d  showy 
ng  it,  we 
evotions. 
i  silently 
d  a  num« 
g  its  ceil- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    IIAIITFORD  AND    QtJEBEC.    241 

Our  driver  left  his  calash,  went  into  church, 
fell  on  his  knees,  and  said  his  prayers  with  much 
apparent  seriousness. 

The  Montmorenci  is  a  small,  but  rapid  river, 
rolling  tumultuously,  over  a  very  rocky  bottom, 
and  just  above  the  falls,  is  considerably  smaller  than 
the  Housatonuck,  at  the  falls  of  Salisbury,  *in  Con- 
necticut. 

Leaving  our  calash  and  driver  on  the  high  hill, 
which  forms  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  we 
crossed  a  bridge,  and  passed  down  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Montmorenci,  which  is  also  very  high  ground, 
and,  as  we  approach  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  rises,  so 
as  to  be  even  still  hi<^ -ler  than  the  opposite  shore. 
From  this  elevation,  the  beautiful  island  of  Orleans, 
which  is  twenty  miles  long,  and  five  wide,  was  in 
full  view  before  us.  It  is  well  cultivated,  contains 
about  four  thou,  and^  inhabitants,  and,  next  to  Mont- 
real, is  the  most  important  island  in  the  river.  On 
the  side  contiguous  to  where  we  were,  it  slopes  to 
the  water's  edge,  and  terminates  in  a  handsome 
beach  of  sand.  A  similar  beach,  corresponds  to 
it,  on  tha  main;  the  ship  channel  h  on  the  other 
side  of  the  island. 

As  we  passed  along  through  the  fields,  we  found 
a  man  and  boy  ploughing.  The  oxen  were  yoked, 
not  as  with  us,  by  the  shoulders  and  neck,  but  by 
the  homs»  A  kind  of  yoke  lay  upon  their  necks, 
and  was  fastened,  by  leather  straps,  to  the  horns; 

*  Bouchette. 
21* 


i  * 


;'^ 


i  s 


:<] 


r.i  • 


■■■i.- 


^*, 


242  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

but  no  bow,  or  other  contrivance,  passed  around  the 
neck;  thus  the  oxen  draw  entirely  by  (heir  horns; 
and  I  am  told  that  the  French  farmers  cannot  be 
induced  to  adopt  our  method,  although  it  is  obvious 
that  the  animal  is  thus  sadly  embarrassed,  and  can 
exert  very  little  power.  1  saw,  however,  one  yoke 
in  another  field,  harnessed  in  our  way. 


m 


«■ , 


id 


h] 


GEOLOGY. 

There  is  very  little  variety  in  the  geology  be- 
tween Quebec  and  Montmorenci.  After  leaving 
the  city,  the  first  objects  that  strike  the  eye,  where 
the  green  slopes  of  the  hills  have  been  excavated, 
in  quarrying,  are  numerous  black  rocks,  very  regu- 
larly stratified,  and  looking  almost  like  great  beds 
of  coal.  These  rocks,  which  prevail  through  the 
village  of  Beauport,  are  black  fetid  limestone,  in 
strata  nearly  horizontal,  and  presenting  in  the  sec- 
tion of  the  hills,  a  remarkable  *"  'ularity,  almost 
architectural.  The  strata,  being  oivided  by  seams, 
both  horizontal  and  vertical,  look  as  if  they  had  been 
laid  up  by  the  skill  of  a  mason.  The  houses  in 
Beauport,  are  generally  built  of  this  stone,  and  the 
people  burn  it  into  lime  at  their  very  doors.  Its 
great  regularity,  and  the  ease  with  which  it  divides, 
must  make  it  an  excellent  building  stone ;  while  the 
combustible  substance  which  it  contains,  will  also 


1*  * 


SBEC. 

round  the 
iir  horns; 
cannot  be 
is  obvious 
,  and  can 
,  one  yoke 


ology  be- 
er leaving 
:ye,  where 
excavated, 
very  regu- 
great  beds 
irough  the 
icstone,  in 
in  the  sec- 
ty,  almost 
by  seams, 
y  had  been 
houses  in 
le,  and  the 
ioors.     Its 
it  divides, 
while  the 
,  will  also 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC.    243 

aid,  very  materially,  in  burning  it  into  quick  lime. — 
These  strata  appear  to  be  secondary  limestone. 

The  sualp,  over  which  the  Montmorenci  falls, 
seem  to  be,  (for  I  could  not  get  near  enough  to  be 
quite  certain,)  of  the  same  description.  I  am  fa- 
voured by  Dr.  John  I.  Bigsby,  of  the  Medical  staff 
of  the  British  army  in  Canada,  with  the  following 
facts,  as  to  the  '' succession  of  the  strata  a  few  yards 
above  the  bridge,  at  the  falls  of  Montmorenci,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river  :" 

"The  lowest  visible  rocks,  rising  six  or  eight  feet 
from  the  bed  of  the  river,  are  dough  shaped  mounds 
of  granite,  vertical,  with  a  south-we^t  direction,  with 
many  irregular  quartz  veins,  half  a  foot  thick.  On 
it,  lies  a  perfectly  horizontal  sand  stone,  so  coarse 
as  to  resemble  conglomerate,  (1  suspect  this  sand 
stone  is  a  coarse  gray  wacke.)  It  is  four  feet  thick, 
and  weathered  red  and  white.  Upon  this  rests  light 
hair  brown,  highly  crystalline  limestone,  very  fetid, 
full  of  shells,  vegetable  filaments,  massive  blende, 
and  a  mineral,  like  brown  spar.  This  gradually  be- 
comes dull,  less  crystalline,  and  at  length,  at  the 
top  of  the  bank,  is  nearly  a  common  blue  lime 
(stone,)  with  a  conchoidal  frac  ^r".,  and  still  here 
and  there  containing  small  crystals  or  carbonates. 
The  whole  height  here,  is  perhaps,  forty  feet." 

As  we  walked  along  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Montmorenci,  and  approached  the  St.  Lawrence, 
we  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  precipice,  of 
three  hundred  feet  in  height:  this  terminates  at  the 


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1 


*,. 


944  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


I  -I 

I  \ 

I 


rf 


1' 


m, 


St.  Lawrence,  or  very  near  it,  in  an  almost  perpen- 
dicular promontory,  down  which,  with  some  diffi» 
culty,  we  wound  our  way  to  the  bed  of  the  great 
river.  The  strata  of  rock  here,  run  parallel  to  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  at  right  angles  to  the  Montmo- 
renci ;  as  these  strata  are  very  soft,  and  easily  de- 
composed and  disintegrated,  the  Montmorenci, 
which  rolls  its  rapid  and  turbulent  waters  across 
them,  has  evidently,  by  long  continued  attrition, 
worn  them  away,  so  that  in  the  jed  of  this  small 
river,  at  the  fails,  these  rocks  have  receded  about 
one  sixth  of  a  mile  from  the  St.  Lawrence. 


•»'*' 


THE  FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCL 


The  distructive  action  of  the  river  itself,  upoa 
the  rocks  which  form  its  bed,  and  its  banks,  has 
produced  in  the  long  course  of  time,  a  deep  bay,  or 
indentation,  shaped  nearly  like  a  parabola,  or  a 
horse-shoe  magnet;  it  recedes  from  two  hundred 
and  eighty,  to  three  hundred  yards,*  from  the  St, 
Lawrence,  and  its  almost  perpendicular  banks,  are 
in  different  places,  from  two  to  three  hundredffeet 
high ;  they  are  composed  apparently,  of  fetid  lime 
stone,  very  much  decomposed,  which,  on  the  east- 
ern side,  resembles  extremely  a  fine  grained  slate, 
or  Eind  stone.  The  crumbled  and  broken  parts,  be- 


•  Boachctte. 


EC. 

>erpen- 
ne  diffi^ 
great 
1  to  the 
ontmo- 
sily  de- 
lorenci, 
}  across 
ttrition, 
s  small 
i  about 


,  upon 
iks,  has 

bay,  or 
I,  or  a 
lundred 

the  St, 
iks,  are 
red'feet 
tid  lime 
le  east- 
d  slate, 
irts,  be* 


TftUft   BETWEEN    HARTFORD  ANB   QlTfiREC.    246 

come  fetid  by  friction  or  percussion.  At  the  upper 
end  of  this  bay,  the  Montmorenci,  after  a  gentle  pre- 
vious declivity,  which  greatly  increases  its  veloci- 
ty, takes  its  stupendous  leap  of  two  hundred  and 
forty  feet,*  into  a  chasm  among  the  rocks,  where  it 
boils  and  foams  in  a  natural  rocky  basin,  from  which, 
after  its  force  is  in  some  measure  exhausted  in  its 
•wn  whirlpools  and  eddies,  it  flows  away  in  a  gen- 
tle stream,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  fall  is 
nearly  perpendicular,  and  appears  not  to  deviate 
more  than  three  or  four  degrees  from  it.  This  de- 
viation is  caused  by  the  ledges  of  rock  below,  and 
is  just  sufficient  to  break  the  water  completely  into 
foam  and  spray.  The  width  of  the  stream,  at  the 
moment  of  its  fall,  is  apparently,  fifty  or  sixty  feet ; 
it  may  be  seventy  wh©n  the  river  is  swollen  by 
rains,  or  by  the  melted  snows. 

The  effect  on  the  beholder  is  most  delightful. 
The  river,  at  some  distance,  seems  suspended  in 
the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy   foam,f  and,  contrast- 

*  It  is  astonishing  that  Chnrlevoix  states  the  fall  of  Montmo- 
renci as  beins^  thirty  feet  wide,  and  only  forty  hi%h.  1  cannot  but 
think  that  there  must  have  been  a  typographical  error  in  the 
omission  of  two  hundred,  before  forty,  especially,  as  Charlevoix 
states  the  height  of  the  Niagara  falls  very  nearly  as  they  are  now 
•stimated.  It  is  not  probable  that  a  century  has  made  much  dif- 
ference with  either. 

t  It  has  been  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  suspended  in  the  air; 
this  comparison  does  Justice  to  the  delicacy,  but  not  to  the  graa< 
deur  of  this  cataract. 


1 


{ • 


' 


■\ 


111 


^ 


n, 


>  J 


I 


246   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AN£>    (QUEBEC. 

ed.  as  it  is,  with  the  black  frowning  abyss,  into 
which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  interest. 

As  we  approached  nearer  to  its  foot,  the  impres- 
sions of  grandeur  and  sublimity  were,  in  the  most 
perfect  manner  imaginable,  blended  with  those  of 
extreme  beauty. 

This  river  is  of  so  considerable  magnitude,  that, 
precipitated  as  it  is,  from  this  amazing  height,  the 
thundering  noise,  and  mighty  rush  of  waters,  and 
the  never  ceasing  wind  and  rain,  produced  by  the 
fall,  powerfully  arrest  the  attention :  the  spectator 
stands  in  profound  awe,  mingled  with  delight,  espe- 
cially when  he  contrasts  the  magnitude  of  the  fall, 
with  that  of  a  villa,  on  the  edge  of  the  dark  preci- 
pices of  frowning  rock,  which  forms  the  wester* 
bSnk,  snd  with  the  casual  spectators,  looking  down 
from  the  same  elevation.  But,  these  impressions 
are  not  sufficient  to  overpower  the  beauty  of  this 
cataract.  The  sheet  of  foam,  which  breaks  over 
the  ridge,  is  more  and  more  divided,  as  it  is  dashed 
against  the  successive  layers  of  rock,  which  it  al- 
most completely  veils  from  view ;  the  spray  be- 
comes very  delicate  and  abundant,  from  top  to  bot- 
tom, hanging  over,  and  revolving  around  the  tor- 
rent, till  it  becomes  lighter  and  more  evanescent, 
than  the  whitest  fleecy  clouds  of  summer,  than  the 
finest  attenuated  web,  than  the  lightest  gossamer, 
constituting  the  most  airy  and  sumptuous  drapery, 
that  can  be  imagined.  Yet,  like  the  drapery  of 
■ome  of  the  Grecian  statutes,  which,  while  it  veils, 


iC. 


TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Q,UBBEC.  247 


S9,  into 
interest, 
impres- 
he  most 
those  of 

de,  that, 
ight,  the 
ters,  and 
sd  by  the 
spectator 
;ht,  espc- 
r  the  fall, 
irk  preci- 
I  western 
:ing  down 
ipressioDS 
ty  of  this 
!aks  over 
is  dashed 
lich  it  al- 
spray  bc- 
op  to  bot- 
the  tor- 
^anesccnt, 
than  the 
yossamer, 
s  drapery, 
rapery  of 
e  it  veils, 


exhibits  more  forcibly,  the  form  beneath,  this  does 
not  hide,  but  exalts  the  effect  produced  by  this  no- 
ble cataract. 

The  raiii-bow  we  saw  in  great  perfection;  bow 
within  bow,  and,  (what  I  never  saw  elsewhese,  so 
perfectly,)  as  I  advanced  into  the  spray,  the  bow 
became  complete,  myself  being  a  part  of  its  circum- 
ference, and  its  transcendent  glories  moving  with 
^very  change  of  position.  This  beautiful  and  splen- 
did sight  was  to  be  enjoyed  only  by  advancing  quite 
into  the  shower  of  spray  -^  as  if,  in  the  language 
of  ancient  poetry,  and  fable,  the  genii  of  the  place, 
pleased  with  the  beholder's  near  approach  to  the 
seat  of  their  empire,  decked  the  devotee  with  thi 
appropriate  robes  of  the  cataract,  the  vestal  veil  of 
fleecy  spray,  and  the  heavenly  splendors  of  the 
bow. 

The  falls  of  Montmorenci  have  been  often  de- 
scribed, and  we  had  obtained  tolerably  definite  and 
correct  ideas  of  them,  but  their  entire  impression 
on  us  was  beyond  our  expectations. 

Those  who  visit  this  place  in  the  winter,  see  one 
fine  feature  added  to  the  scene,  although  they  may 
lose  some  others.  The  spray  freezes,  and  forms  a 
regular  cone,  of  sometimes  it  is  said  one  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  standing  immediately  at  the  hot- 
tom  of  the  cataract.     It  is  even  said,  that  some  arc 

*  Which  was  very  copious,  and,  (if  not  averted  by  an  unbrtfl- 
la,)  would  soon  wet  the  obterver  through  hit  clethei. 


\ 


n: 


ft 


I 


ii 


} 


•1, 


% 


1 


248  TOUR  nETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

kardy  enough  to  clamber  up  this  icy  tower.  Captain 

informs  us  that  he  has  performed  this  giddy 

ffeat. 

PRINT,  NO.  7. 


,f' 


In  this  yiew,  on  the  right,  are  seen  the  rocky 
strata,  rising  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  presenting 
their  broken  edges ;  higher  up,  the  precipice  is  cov- 
ered with  sand,  gravel,  and  ruins  of  the  rocks,  and 
with  some  poor  verdure,  and  stinted  shrubs.  This 
high  bank,  here  terminating  abruptly  on  the  great 
river,  is  continued  around  to  the  fall,  forming  the 
right  side  of  the  great  curve,  in  the  centre  of  which, 
appears  the  cataract.  In  the  picture,  the  spray  is 
but  partially  represented,  and  is  less  copious,  and 
rises  to  a  less  considerable  height,  than  in  the  scene 
itself.  Just  where  the  river  commences  its  leap, 
some  rocks  are  seen,  breaking  the  current. 

Immediately  in  front,  nearest  to  the  observer,  and 
just  where  some  spectators  are  placed,  the  fall  is 
seen  with  great  advantage;  perhaps,  it  is  more 
beautiful  there,  than  any  where  else;  the  views  of 
it  are,  however,  very  fine  at  every  position,  as  we 
advance  towards  it,  (although  the  impending  banks 
of  ruinous  and  decomposed  rock,  look  rather  alarm- 
ing, as  we  pass  along.)  At  the  foot  of  the  cataract, 
on  the  right,  we  perceive  a  projection  of  rock,  halt 
veiling  the  bottom  of  the  fall  from  view ;  this  rock 
is  constantly  wet  and  slippery,  with  the  spray,  and 


\'i 


RKC. 


Captain 
is  giddy 


16  rocky 
resenting 
ce  is  cov- 
ocks,  and 
)s.  This 
the  great 
rming  the 
of  which, 
e  spray  is 
ions,  and 
the  scene 
s  its  leap, 
It. 

erver,  and 
the  fall  is 
t  is  more 
e  views  of 
ion,  as  wc 
ding  banks 
her  alarm- 
e  cataract, 
'  rock,  half 
;  this  rock 
spray,  and 


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■rO¥R    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    HUEHEC.    !24W 

the  observer  scrambles  up  its  sides,  with  some  difli- 
culty.  but,  when  arrived  there,  he  is  fully  compen- 
sated by  the  grandeur  of  the  scene;  if  he  advance 
over  the  other  declivity  of  the  rock,  the  bow  at- 
tends his  every  step,  and  at  some  places,  two  or 
three  concentric  bows  are  seen.  If  willing  to  be 
thoroughly  wet,  and  possessed  of  a  little  of  the 
spirit  of  adventure,  he  may,  by  persevering  in  his 
advances  even  gain  a  peep  behind  the  cataract. 
On  the  left,  is  seen  the  other  side  of  the  bay;  it  is 
composed  of  perpendicular  ledges  of  black  stratiti- 
j-jYf  jck;  (I  presume  it  is  the  same  fetid  limestone, 
.,,  h  constitutes  the  basis  of  Beauport,)  and  on  its 
..•;  i  nit,  a  little  removed  from  the  edge,  is  a  hand- 
-r«., ;  villa.  Almost  exactly  on  the  edge,  and  re- 
:,r,;;  ^ling  3  low  fcHce,  is  seen  an  aqueduct,  which 
diverts  a  part  of  the  river,  just  above  the  fall,  and 
conducts  it  to  a  saw  mill  at  the  bottom  of  the  bank. 
The  tranquil  basin,  below  the  fall,  at  low  water, 
presents  to  view,  portions  of  the  rocky  strata,  which 
torm  its  bed,  and  it  is  then  fordabic,  and  also  for 
some  time,  during  the  latter  part  of  the  ebb,  and 
the  beginning  of  the  flow  of  the  tide. 

#         *        * 


'  '   '    SAWMILLS  AND  LUxMBER. 

Just  below  the  falls,   on  the   right  bank  of  the 

Montmorenci,  at   its  confluence  with  the  St.  Law- 

22 


•'3 


1\f\ 


»■   ', 


\ 


I 


]i 


250  TOUU  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC. 


™ 


/I 


'*  ;i 


rence, 


the 


estabi 


Ml 


Patterson. 

for  sawing  lumber.  The  uiils,  which  are  probably 
as  extensive  as  any  in  the  world,  are  fed  by  a 
stream,  directed  (as  is  already  mentioned  in  the 
description  of  print  7,)  from  the  Montmorenci,  just 
above  the  falls.  It  is  conducted  along,  on  the 
high  bank,  in  a  lai^e  artificial  channel,  of  plank  and 
timber,  till,  rushing  down  the  inclined  plane,  form- 
ed by  the  great  natural  descent  of  the  hill,  it  ac- 
quires a  prodigious  velocity,  and,  falling  upon  the 
water  wheels,  in  the  mill,  at  the  bottom  of  the  bank, 
it  imparts  an  impulse,  sufficiently  powerful,  to  turn 
the  machinery  of  a  vast  establishment,  and  per- 
forms a  very  great  amount  of  labour.  Nor  does  it 
injure  the  cataract,  as  Lieutenant  Hall,  in  his  trav- 
els, supposes  it  would ;  for,  it  is  no  more  missed 
from  the  stream  of  the  Montmorenci,  than  a  pebble 
would  be  from  its  banks. 

Contiguous  to  these  mills,  is  a  vast  deposit  of 
lumber ;  much  of  it  is  afloat,  and  is  guarded  from 
floating  quite  away,  by  wharves  and  pillars,  and  by 
very  extensive  artificial  dams,  running  out  a  great 
way  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  forming  a  large  ba- 
sin. I  cannot  say  with  confidence,  how  many  acres 
it  appeared  to  cover ;  my  elevation  on  the  contiguous 
bank,  was  so  great,  that  I  might  be  much  deceived  ; 
but  it  served,  together  with  the  deposits  which  we 
had  seen  at  the  Chaudiere,  at  Sillery,  in  Wolfe's 
cove,  and  other  places,  to  give  us  a  strong  impres- 


■ »'.; 


I'J'iu' 


t 


'attersorj. 
probably 
fed  by  a 
ed  in  the 
enci,  just 
on  the 
plank  and 
ne,  form- 
ill,  it  ac- 
upon  the 
the  bank, 
il,  to  turn 
and  per- 
or  does  it 
1  his  trav- 
re  missed 
1  a  pebble 

deposit  of 
ded  from 
rs,  and  by 
ut  a  great 
I  large  ba- 
lany  acres 
ontiguous 
deceived ; 
irhich  we 
Wolfe's 
;  impres- 


m- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HAIITPORD    A\i)    QUEliEC.  251 

sion  of  the  magnitude  of  the  Canadian  lumber  trade ; 
it  is,  in  fact;  the  principal  business  of  the  country  ; 
and  the  ships  waiting  to  receive  ;it,  are  very  nume- 
rous. A  good  deal  of  this  lumber,  as  we  were  as- 
sured, comes  from  Vermont,  and  is  rafted  down 
Lake  Champlain,  and  through  the  rivers  Sorel  and 
8t.  Lawrence. 

To  us,  who  had  never  seen  any  thing  to  compare 
with  the  exhibition  of  lumber,  on  the  waters  around 
Quebec,  this  sight,  and  the  other  similar  ones,  ap- 
peared very  remarkable.  The  number  and  size  of 
the  ships,  also,  that  are  waiting  to  receive  it,  far  ex- 
ceeded our  expectations,  and  evinced,  that,  if  Great 
Britain  cannot  supply  herself  with  lumber,  on  good 
terms,  from  any  other  source,  this  colony  must,  for 
this  reason  alone,  be  very  important  to  her ;  and, 
indeed  it  has  obviously  this  great  advantage,  as  a 
source  of  supply,  that  it  is  in  a  great  measure,  in- 
dependent of  the  contingency  of  war. 

As  an  article  of  trade,  however,  I  am  aware  that 
lumber  from  its  great  bulk,  and  low  value,  makes  a 
much  greater  show,  than  a  commerce  in  many  com- 
modities, which,  in  a  much  more  snug  way,  may 
employ  a  much  greater  amount  of  capital^  and  of 
profits. 

The  Lumber  rafts  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  well  de- 
serve to  be  mentioned  among  the  curiosities  of  the 
river.  We  found  some  of  them  around  us  in  the 
morning,  as  we  were  coming  down  to  Quebec,  and 
were  amused  with  the  view  of  these  anomalous 


li 


N 


i 


I^'' 

l^ 


SI  » 


252  TO¥R  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

floating  communities.  Some  of  them  occupied 
thousands  of  square  feet  on  the  water,  and  exhibit- 
ed an  active,  grotesque  population,  busy  in  steering 
these  ponderous  misshapen  piles,  down  the  current 
of  the  river;  they  erect  huts  upon  them,  and  con- 
trive to  concentrate  upon  the  rafts,  the  few  and 
coarse  accommodations,  which  their  frugal  habits, 
and  their  tardy  inland  voyage  may  demand. 

We  did  not  expect  to  find  oppressively  hot 
weather  in  Canada,  so  late  as  the  7th  of  October, 
but  in  clambering  the  precipices  about  the  falls  of 
Montmorenci,  we  experienced  a  degree  of  heat, 
like  that  in  the  middle  of  July. 


W 


V]EW  OF  QUEBF.C  AND  ITS  ENVIRON3,  FROM 

BEAU  PORT. 

From  the  river  Montmorenci,  the  ground  gently 
descends  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  towards 
Quebec,  but  as  the  distance  is  considerable,  the  ele- 
vation is  sufficient  to  afford  a  good  view  of  that  city. 

Approaching  it  by  water,  from  Montreal,  we  have 
only  a  glimpse  of  the  upper  town,  but  from  the 
Beauport  side,  we  see  it  perfectly.  Most  of  the 
upper  town  is  built  upon  a  side  hill,  sloping  rapidly 
to  the  north  and  east,  and  the  view  from  Beauport, 
gives  the  idea  of  a  fine  city  of  considerable  magni- 
tude. 

The  roofs  and  spires,  covered  with  tin,  glittered 
to-day,  in  the  bright  meridian  sun.     The  towers  and 


.   >'.| 


BEC. 


TOUll  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  253 


occupied 
exhibit- 
steering 
le  current 
|and  con- 
few  and 
[al  habits, 

J* 

iv^ely   liot 

'October, 

e  falls  of 

of  heat, 


FROM 

Jd  gently 
towards 
» the  ele- 
that  city, 
we  have 
oin   the 
t  of  the 
rapidly 
Jauport, 

magni- 

• 

littered 
ers  and 


lurretted  walls,  completely  encircle  the  upper  town, 
although  they  exclude  the  lower;  and  the  suburbs, 
(now  become  almost  as  extensive  and  handsome,  as 
the  city  itself,)  are  also  in  full  view,  with  a  considera- 
ble part  of  the  lower  town,  and  most  of  the  ships  ia 
the  bay  and  river. 

The  opposite  shores  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and 
of  Point  Levi,  with  the  numerous  farm  houses  and 
villages,  that  are  conspicuous  all  around,  end  the 
luxuriant  meadows,  intersected  by  the  Charles,  ad- 
ded to  the  beauty  of  the  prospect. 

Indeed,  Quebec  and  its  environs,  present  as  mag- 
nificent scenery  as  can  well  be  imagined.  Towers 
and  spires — walls  and  rocks — cascades  and  precipi- 
ces— swelling  hills,  and  luxuriant  vallies,  and  woody 
mountains — beautiful  villages,  and  numberless  sol- 
itary villas,  and  white  cottages — with  grand  rivers, 
and  crowding  fleets,  are  all  united  to  delight  the 
spectator.  Such  scenes  would  be  esteemed  very 
fine  in  any  country. 

PRINT,    NO.    8. 

This  print,  although  the  scene  is  principally  the 
same,  does  not  exhibit  exactly  ihe  view,  from  Beau- 


port, 


which  was  last  described.     The  observer  is 


not  in  Beauport,  but  is  standing  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Montmorenci,  on  the  bank,  which  is  exhibit- 
ed on  the  right  of  print  7.  Immediately  before  him, 

'^22 


4 
f 


*^ 


(  t 

V 


! 


n 


y  fi 


254    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    q,UEBEC. 


i 


is  the  saw  mill  of  Mr.  Patterson,  with  floating  lum- 
ber, and  a  ship  waiting  to  receive  it.     On  the  right, 
is  the  high  promontory,  situated  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Montmorenci,  and  constituting  the  counter- 
part to  that  exhibited  in  the  last  print;  the  ship, 
and  sawmill,  and  two  adventurers,  on  the  top  of  the 
precipice,  give  some  idea  of  its  height.     From  the 
mill,  we  see  the  aqueduct   passing  along   the  hill ; 
after  it  begins  to  descend  from  the  heights,  it  is  cov- 
ered on  the  top,  with  thick  plank,  strongly  bound  by 
timber,  to  prevent  the  water  from  overflowing,  for 
the  stream  is  so  copious,  as  completely  to  fill  this 
hollow  box,  through  which  the  water  is  hurried  with 
a  frightful  velocity.     On  the  left  is  Point  Levi,  op- 
posite to  Quebec,  and  distant  from  the  observer  five 
or  six  miles ;  at  the  foot  of  this  promontory,  we  see 
a  little  settlement,  a  port  in  miniature,  and  numbers 
of  ships  contiguous      In  the  extreme  distance,   are 
the  hills  about  the  mouth  of  the   Chaudiere  river, 
and  beyond  it ;  they  are  from  twelve  to  fifteen,  and 
even  tvvtntv  miles  distant,   and  are  situated  on    the 
right  b.aik  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

In  the  middio  of  the  view,  on  the  right,  is  the 
city  of  Quebec,  exhibiting  a  part,  both  of  the  u^>pcr 
and  lower  town.  This  view  may  be  considered  as 
being,  in  (his  respect,  a  continuation  of  thai,  ex- 
hibited in  prints  ^o.  5  and  G  ;  and,  as  beginning 
nearly  where  the  latter  leaves  off'.  We  see  the  up- 
per town,  with    it'3  crowded  bjjow  of  houses  and 


^ 


:s 


JEC, 


-^ 


ng  lum- 

■•■ 

le  right, 

,V: 

ern  side 

^ 

counter- 

le  ship, 

p  of  the 

om  the 

_4 

he  hill; 

t  is  cov- 
)und  by 

'5- 

ing,   for 

"A 

nil  this 

--        aS 

ed  with 

1  ■*■       _. 

:vi,  op- 
t^er  five 
we  see 
umbers 
ce,  are 
!  river, 
?n,  and 
on   the 

is  the 
upper 
red  as 
it,  ex- 
inning 
If  up- 
s  and- 


—        '^^ 


tV-  '^^ 


ai  ^ 


,"*■. 


/  • 


•  i 


»'i 


•    I     — 


-^IM 


s  *, 


r 


> 


TOUR    BETWEEN"    HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC.    255 


I 


spires,  and  with  the  flag  and  telegraph  on  Cape 
Diamond,  surrounded  by  its  military  wall,  and  dis- 
tant four  or  five  miles;  the  wall  passes  along  upon 
the  very  edge  of  the  precipice  of  naked  black  rock. 
Immediately  at  the  foot  of  this  precipice,  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  lower  town,  with  its  quays,  ships, 
and  ware  houses,  and,  on  its  extreme  right,  we  see 
the  steep  ascent  to  the  palace  gate.  The  promon- 
tory, on  the  right  of  the  Montmorenci,  intercepts 
the  view  of  Bcauport,  and  of  the  beautiful  slope 
from  it  to  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  nor  do  we  see  the 
declivity  of  the  city  of  Quebec  to  the  north  and 
west;  from  the  highest  parts  that  are  in  view,  it  de- 
clines very  rapidly  in  that  direction,  towards  the 
Charles  river;  and  this  part  is  extensive  and  popu- 
lous, and  includes  the  fine  suburb  of  St.  Johns. 

In  order  to  urderstand  this  print,  and  No.  5  and 
6,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  (he  front  of  the 
town,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  circular,  pre- 
senting its  convex  side  to  the  rivers,  in  the  form  of 
(he  exterior  curve  of  an  amphitheatre. 


i 


li 


w 


I 
1 1 

H 


* 


BATTLE  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


The  roar  of  the  cataract — the  beauty  of  the  re- 
volving spray,  and  the  splendors  o(  the  rainbow, 
have  not  always  been  observed,  in  tranquility,  at 


♦ 


/^ 


Jl. 


Wm 

i« 

w 

1 

s 

i 

':25()    TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFOIID    AND    Q,UEi:EC. 

Montmorenci ;  for  the  flash,  and  the  smoke,  and 
the  thunder  of  artillery,  at  a  former  period, 
overwhelmed  these  milder  beauties,  and  the  banks, 
and  the  waters  of  these  rivers  have,  at  their  conflu- 
ence, been  stained  with  blood. 

On  the  27th  of  June,  1 759,  General  Wolfe,  ar- 
riving in  the  St.  Lawrence,  with  an  armament  equip- 
ped expressly  for  the  reduction  of  Quebec,  estab- 
lished his  army  upon  the  island  of  Orleans,  while 
Admiral  Saunders,  with  the  fleet,  occupied  the 
channels  and  the  bay  of  Quebec.  On  the  29th, 
General  Wolfe  detached  General  Monckton,  with 
four  battalions,  to  drive  the  French  force  from 
Point  Levi,  the  promontory  opposite  to  Quebec, 
and  to  occupy  that  place,  a  service  which  was  suc- 
cessfully executed.  The  French  soon  after,  passed 
over  from  Quebec,  with  one  thousand  six  hundred 
men,  to  attack  General  Monckton,  but  fell  into 
confusion — fired  on  one  another,  and  retreated 
back  to  Ihe  city.*  General  Monckton  severely 
cannonaded  and  bombarded  the  city,  from  this 
point,  and  although  his  fire  was  quite  destructive 
to  the  lower  town,  and  very  injurious  to  the  build- 
ings in  the  upper,  it  made  no  serious  impression  on 
its  defences,  and  left  the  place  nearly  as  tenable 
as  ever.  Indeed,  it  is  obvious  from  mere  inspec- 
tion, that  were  the  works  of  Quebec,  on  the  side 
n«  xt  to  Toint  Levi,  all  destroyed,  still  it  would  be 


^  «lencrRl  Wolfe's  di«p;xtch  to  his  government. 


01 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAUTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  257 

of  little  avail,  towards  an  escalade  of  the  preci- 
p'  'es,  of  naked  rock,  in  sonne  places  more  than 
three  hundred  feet  high,  on  which  the  walls  and 
towers  are  built.  For  many  miles  above  the  city, 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  is  a  mere  precipice,  or 
admits  of  easy  and  effectual  defence,  by  a  small 
number  of  troops,  judiciously  stationed.  The  only 
accessible  ground,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Que- 
bec, is  the  graceful  declivity  between  the  river  St. 
Charles,  which  washes  the  north  eastern  part  of  the 
city,  and  the  Montmorenci.  This  is  the  fine  natu- 
ral slope,  that  appeared  so  beautiful  as  we  entered 
the  bay  of  Quebec,  and  stretches  four  or  five  miles, 
along  the  river,  from  Beauport  to  the  St., Lawrence. 
Near  Montmorenci,  this  declivity  becomes  very 
steep  and  of  arduous  ascent.  This  ground  would, 
of  course,  invite  a  landing,  but  the  Marquis  do  Mont- 
calm, had  occupied  every  part  of  it,  with  an  en- 
trenched camp ;  batteries  of  cannon  were  placed 
at  every  accessible  point,  and  his  rear  was  defend- 
ed by  a  thick  forest. 

Still,  General  Wolfe,  seeing  no  prospect  of  re- 
ducing Quebec,  except  by  first  defeating  the  army 
by  which  it  was  defended,  and  perceiving  no  possi- 
bility of  attacking  that  army,  except  by  occupying 
this  ground,  took  measures  to  effect  that  object. 

On  the  night  of  July  9th,  he  passed  his  army 
over  the  north  channel,  between  the  island  of  Or- 
leans and  the  promontory  represented  on  the  right 
of  print  7.     fie  wished  next  to  pass  the   Moatmo- 


m  \ 


■,.,i,  ,  , 


1.1 


^%..  a 


;  I 


■r 


258  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

renci  above  the  falls,  and  to  attack  the  enemy  in  the 
rear,  but,  there  was  no  ford  nearer  than  three  miles 
up  the  river,  and  the  opposite  bank  was  entrench- 
ed, and  so  steep  and  woody,  that  it  could  not  b« 
successfully  attacked.  ^ 

He  had  occupied  with  cannon,  the  precipice  be- 
low the  falls,  which  forms  the  right  of  the  curve,  in 
print  7;  it  is  higher  than  the  opposite  side,  to  which 
the  left  of  the  French  camp  extended,  and  the  vig- 
or of  the  fire  from  this  battery,  under  the  direction 
of  General  Townsend,  prevented  the  French  from 
erecting  a  corresponding  battery,  near  the  place 
where  the  aqueduct  is  represented,  in  the  left  of 
the  picture ;  this  battery  was  therefore  unopposed, 
and  considerably  annoyed  the  French  camp. 

We  saw  the  remains  of  the  English  battery ;  they 
are  still  distinctly  visible  on  the  heights,  north-east 
of  the  bay,  below  the  falls  ;  the  bank  has  now  crum- 
bled so  much,  that  the  entrenchments  are  close  to 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  the  observer,  on  ac- 
count of  the  frail  support  below,  should  be  on  his 
guard  in  approaching  the  brink. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned,  in  the  description 
of  print  7,  that  the  bay  below  the  falls  is  fordable, 
near,  and  at  low  water.  General  Wolfe  determined 
to  avail  himself  of  this  facili.y,  and  to  attack  the  en- 
emy in  front,  in  their  entnuichmcits;  to  entilade 
and  batter  these,  a  great  quantity  of  artillery  was 
placed  upon  the  eminence,  and  was  served  with 
much  effect. 


»i' 


x-^ 


i..\^-tSli^^ 


I'. 


EBEC. 

emy  in  the 

hree  miles 

entrench- 

uld  not  hv 

cipice  be- 
e  curre,  in 
3,  to  which 
1(1  the  vig- 
B  direction 
'ench  from 
the  place 
the  left  of 
mopposed, 
Tip. 

tery;  Ihej 
north-east 
now  c  rum- 
re  close  to 
srer,  on  ac- 
,  be  on  his 

description 
fordable, 
ietermined 
ack  the  on- 
to entilade 
tilleiy  was 
2rved  with 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  2j9 

It  became  necessary  to  pass  the  ford  on  the  rock, 
and  then  to  go  around  the  point  by  the  saw  mill, 
which  is  exhibited  on  the  right  of  print  8.  The 
promontory  there  represented,  immediately  above 
the  saw  mill,  cuts  off,  in  a  great  measure,  the  view 
of  the  ground  occupied  by  the  French  camp,  and 
also  the  view  of  the  beach  where  the  English  troops 
were  to  form. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  July,  that 
the  grenadiers,  in  the  boats  of  the  squadron,  sup- 
ported by  a  part  of  General  Monckton's  corps  from 
Point  Levi,  who  were  also  in  boats,  proceeded  for 
the  shore ;  they  were  thrown  into  some  confusion, 
and  detained  a  good  while  by  accidental  ground- 
ing, so  that  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon,  before  they 
effected  a  landing  on  the  beach,  above  the  saw  mill. 
The  enemy  had  precipitately  abandoned  a  redoubt, 
close  to  the  shore  ;  the  corps  of  Generals  Townsend 
and  Murray,  which  were  to  ford  the  Montmorenci, 
and  come  round  to  the  beach,  to  unite  in  the  attack, 
were  on  their  way,  and  in  good  order,  but  the  corps 
of  General  Monckton  were  not  yet  landed. 

The  grenadiers,  consisting  of  thirteen  companies, 
aided  by  two  hundred  royal  Americans,  had  orders 
to  form  in  four  distinct  bodies,  and  to  proceed  to 
the  attack  as  soon  as  they  could  be  supported  by 
Monckton's  corps,  and  aided  by  the  troops  from  the 
ford  of  the  Montmorenci.         * 

But,  before  Monckton's  corps  were  landed,  and 
before  the  other  troops  were  at  hand   to  support 


■y 


I      I 


Tl 


aUO  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  ANJ*  ^UBBEC. 

them,  and,  without  waiting  to  form,  they  rushed  im 
petuously  forward,  running  towards  the  "enemy's 
entrenchments,  in  the  utmost  disorder  and  confu- 
sion."* Their  courage  proved  their  ruin;  they 
were  cut  down  in  great  numbers,  by  a  very  hot  and 
well  directed  fire,  and,  being  unable  to  form,  they 
retreated  behind  the  redoubt,  which  the  F'rench  had 
abandoned,  leaving  their  dead  to  be  plundered,  and 
numbers  of  their  wounded  to  be  murdered  and 
scalped  by  the  savages.  General  Wolfe  now  drew  off 
his  grenadiers,  to  form  them  behind  General  Monck- 
ton's  corps,  which  was  by  this  time  drawn  up  on  the 
beach,  in  "  extreme  good  order."  But  it  was  now 
near  night — a  sudden  thunder  storm  came  on — the  tide 
began  to  make — and  the  attack  was  abandoned,  after 
the  loss  of  between  five  and  six  hundred  brave  men, 
of  the  flower  of  the  army,  and  Wolfe,  fearing  that,  if 
he  persisted  any  longer,  his  retreat  might  be  cut  off, 
quietly  retired  again  to  his  camp,  across  the 
Montmorenci.  This  attack  has  often  been  censur- 
ed as  rash,  and,  after  viewing  the  ground,  I  presume 
most  persons  would  pronounce  hat  judgment  to  be 
correct.  General  Wolfe  himself,  says  :  "The  ene- 
my were  indeed  posted  upon  a  commanding  emi- 
nence. The  beach,  upon  which  the  troops  were 
drawn  up,  was  of  a  deep  mud,  with  holes,  and  cut 
by  several  gullies.  The  hill  to  be  ascended,  very 
steep,    and  not  every  where  practicable.      The 

*  Wolfe's  letter  to  Mr.  Pitt. 


#..i. 


TOUR  BKTWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUEUEC.  261 

enemy  numerous  in  their  entrenchments,  and  their 
fire  hot.  If  the  attack  had  succeeded,  our  loss  must 
certainly  have  been  great,  and  theirs  inconsidera- 
ble, from  the  shelter  which  the  neighboring  woods 
afforded  them.  The  river  St,  Charles  still  re- 
mained to  be  passed,  before  the  town  was  invested. 
All  these  circumstances  1  considered ;  but,  the  de- 
sire to  act  in  conformity  to  the  king^s  intentions, 
induced  me  to  make  this  trial,  persuaded  that  a 
victorious  army  finds  no  difficulties."* 

General  Wolfe  expected,  (had  he  succeeded,)  to 
have  penetrated  the  .t  of  the  French  camp,  where 
his  artillery,  from  the  opposite  heights,  had  made 
an  impression.  Without  claiming  to  have  any  mili- 
tary knowledge,  I  may,  perhaps,  be  allowed  to  say, 
that,  after  toiling  up  this  hill,  on  foot,  and  finding 
it  an  arduous  undertaking  to  one  entirely  unmolest- 
ed, it  appears  next  to  madness,  to  lead  columns  of 
men  up  a  long  and  steep  ascent,  where,  especially 
in  a  hot  summer's  day,  they  could  not  for  many 
minutes,  proceed  upon  the  run,  without  being  put 
out  of  breath,  and-  'here  the  well  directed  fire  of 
deeply  entrenched  troops,  aided  by  artillery,  must 
speedily  cut  down,  (as  it  actually  did,)  one  half  of 
those  who  made  the  rash  attempt,  while  they,  in 
turn,  could  do  their  enemy  little  or  no  harm. 

It  was  an  affair,  extremely  like  Bunker's  Hill,  in 
almost  all  its  circumstances,  except  that  the  French 


J  r 


f^ 


} 


I 


*  Wolfe's  letter  to  Mr.  Pitt. 
23 


f%*7      <■ 


IMAGE  EVALUATdON 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WHSTIR.N.Y.  14SI0 

(71*)  •7a-4S03 


t 


h 


262  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


J,/ 
V 


T     I 


possessed  regular  entrenchmentF,  abundance  ot 
cannon,  and  experienced  commanders  and  troops, 
while  the  Americans,  at  Bunker's  Hill,  had  nothing 
more  than  a  small  redoubt,  and  a  very  imperfect 
breast-work,  thrown  up  in  one  night,  and  made,  to 
some  extent,  of  rail  fence  and  haj,  and  were  almost 
without  cannon,  and  with  commanders  and  troops, 
most  of  whom  had  never  been  in  battle  before. — 
Had  thej/  been  situated  at  Bunker's  Hill,  as  the 
French  were,  at  Montmorenci,  they  would,  without 
doubt,  have  finally  repulsed  the  assailants.  If  Gen- 
eral Wolfe  had  lived,  and  ultimately  failed  in  the 
campaign,  he  would  probably  have  been  censured, 
with  much  severity,  especially  had  he  been 
frustrated  in  the  attempt  to  gain  the  plains  of  Abra- 
ham, which  he  certainly  would  have  been,  had  the 
French  commander  been  as  much  on  his  guard 
there,  as  at  Montmorenci. 

In  the  recital  of  the  horrors  of  war,  we  view  them 
with  wonderful  apathy,  for  the  very  reason,  that 
ought  to  excite  the  deepest  interest,  because  the 
results  are  given  by  hundreds  and  by  thousands.  In 
this  vast  aggregate  of  human  woe,  we  forget  the 
particular  sufferings,  and  arc  much  less  affected,  (as 
has  often  been  remarked  by  moral  writers,)  by  the 
accounts  of  the  slaughter  of  armies,  than  wc  should 
be  by  the  detailed  exhibition,  of  the  sufferings  of  a 
single  soldier.  But  wc  ought  to  remember  that 
every  wounded  and  dying  man  has  his  oion  individ- 
ual agony  ;  and  that  it  is  not  greater  for  a  Wolfe. 
than  for  every  private  soldier. 


EBEC;. 

ndance  oi 
nd  troops, 
ad  nothing 

imperfect 
id  made,  to 
rere  almost 
ind  troops, 
J  before— 
lill,  as  the 
Id,  without 
its.  IfGen- 
liled  in  the 
n  censured, 

he  been 
nsof  Abra- 
en,  had  the 
i  his  guard 

3  view  them 
reason,  that 
because  the 
utsands.  In 
5  forget  the 
iffected,  (as 
crs,)  by  the 
n  wc  should 
(ferings  of  a 
ember  that 
)wn  individ- 
ir  a  Wolfe. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AlfD    QUEBFX.    2G3 

The  following  anecdote*  contains  an  account  of 
the  dangers  and  sufferings  of  two  individuals,  in 
this  very  battle,  and  the  event  happened  on  the 
very  ground  which  we  walked  over  in  this  day's 
excursion.  I  presume  that,  notwithstanding  its 
length,  I  shall  be  excused  for  its  introduction  : — 

"  Captain  Ochterlony,  and  Ensign  Peyton,  be- 
longed tothe  regimentof  Brigadier-General  Monck- 
ton.  They  were  nearly  of  an  age,  which  did  not 
exceed  thirty  ;  the  first  was  a  North-Briton,  the 
other  a  native  of  Ireland.  Both  were  agreeable  in 
person,  and  unblemished  in  character,  and  connect- 
ed together  by  the  ties  of  mutual  friendship  and 
esteem.  On  the  day  that  preceded  the  battle, 
Captain  Ochterlony  had  been  obliged  in  fight  a 
duel  with  a  German  officer,  in  which,  though  he 
wounded  and  disarmed  his  antagonist,  yet  he  him- 
self received  a  dangerous  hurt  under  the  right  arm, 
in  consequence  of  which,  his  friends  insisted  on  his 
remaining  in  camp  during  the  action  of  next  day; 
but  his  spirit  was  too  great  to  comply  with  this  re- 
monstrance. He  declared  it  should  never  be  said 
that  a  scratch,  received  in  a  private  rencounter, 
had  prevented  him  from  doing  his  duty,  when  his 
country  required  his  service  ;  and  he  took  the  fi«ld 
with  a  fusil  in  his  hand,  though  he  was  hardly  able 
to  carry  his  arms.  In  leading  up  his  men  to  the 
enemy's  entrenchment,  he  was  shot  through  the 
lungs  with  a  musket  ball,  an  accident  which  obliged 

*  ^mollott'i  Hiitory  of  England,  Vol.  V.  p.  49. 


id 

V 


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t; 


0 


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li 


:) 


(, 


■1 


k 


^64  TOUR  BETWEBN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

him  to  part  with  his  fusil;  but  he  still  continued 
advancing,  until,  by  loss  of  blood,  he  became  too 
weak  to  proceed  further.  About  the  same  time, 
Mr.  Peyton  was  lamed  by  a  shct,  which  shattered 
the  small  bone  of  his  left  leg.  The  soldiers,  in 
their  retreat,  earnestly  begged,  with  tears  in  their 
eyes,  that  Captain  Ochterlony  would  allow  them 
to  carry  him  and  the  ensign  off  the  field.  But  he 
was  so  bigotted  to  a  severe  point  of  honor,  that  he 
would  not  quit  the  ground,  though  he  desired  they 
would  take  care  of  his  ensign.  Mr.  Peyton,  with 
a  generous  disdain,  rejected  their  good  offices,  de- 
claring that  he  would  not  leave  his  captain  in  such 
a  situation;  and,  in  a  little  time,  they  remained 
sole  survivors  on  that  part  of  the  field. 

"Captain  Ochterlony  sat  down  by  his  friend, 
and,  as  they  expected  nothing  but  immediate  death, 
they  took  leave  of  each  other ;  yet  they  were  not 
altogether  abandoned  by  the  hope  of  being  protect- 
ed as  prisoners;  for  the  captain,  seeing  a  French 
soldier,  with  two  Indians,  approach,  started  up,  and 
accosting  them  in  the  French  language,  which  he 
spoke  perfectly  well,  expressed  his  expectation 
that  they  would  treat  him  and  his  companion  as 
officers,  prisoners,  and  gentlemen.  The  two  Indians 
seemed  to  be  entirely  under  the  conduct  of  the 
Frenchman,  who,  coming  up  to  Mr.  Peyton,  as  he 
sat  on  the  ground,  snatched  his  laced  hat  from  his 
head,  and  robbed  the  captain  of  his  watch  and 
monevt     This  outrage  was  a  signal  to  the  Indians 


!■ 


EHEC. 

continued 
recame  too 
same  time, 
1  shattered 
oldiers,  in 
IPS  in  their 
illow  them 
But  he 
or,  that  he 
esired  thej 
jyton,  with 
offices,  de- 
aiin  in  such 
'  remained 

lis   friend, 
iate  death, 
y  were  not 
ig  protect- 
j  a  French 
ed  up,  and 
which  he 
xpectation 
ipanion  as 
wo  Indians 
net  of  the 
ton,  as  he 
t  from  his 
vatch  and 
le  Indians 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  265 

for  murder  and  pillage.  One  of  them,  clubbing 
his  firelock,  struck  at  him  behind,  with  a  view  to 
knock  him  down  ;  but  the  blow,  missing  his  head, 
took  place  upon  his  shoulder.  At  the  same  instant, 
the  other  Indian  poured  his  shot  into  the  breast  of 
this  unfortunate  young  gentleman,  who  cried  out, 
*  O  Peyton  !  the  villain  has  shot  me*'  Not  yet  satia- 
ted with  cruelty,  the  barbarian  sprung  upon  him, 
and  stabbed  him  in  the  belly  with  his  scalping 
knife.  The  captain  having  parted  with  his  fusil, 
had  no  weapon  for  his  defence,  as  none  of  the  offi- 
cers wore  swords  in  the  action.  The  three  ruffians 
finding  him  still  alive,  endeavored  to  strangle  him 
with  his  own  sash;  and  he  was  now  upon  his  knees, 
struggling  against  them  with  surprising  exertion. — 
Mr.  Peyton,  at  this  juncture,  having  a  double  bar- 
relled musket  in  his  hand,  and  seeing  the  distress  of 
his  friend,  fired  atone  of  the  Indians,  who  dropped 
dead  on  the  spot.  The  other,  thinking  the  ensign 
would  now  be  an  easy  prey,  advanced  towards  him, 
and  Mr.  Peyton,  having  taken  good  aim,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  yards,  discharged  his  piece  the  second 
time,  but  it  seemed  to  take  no  effect.  The  savage 
fired  in  his  turn,  and  wounded  the  ensign  in  the 
shoulder ;  then,  rushing  upon  him,  thrust  his  bayo- 
net through  his  body ;  he  repeated  the  blow,  which 
Mr.  Peyton  attempting  to  parry,  received  another 
wound  in  his  left  hand  ;  nevertheless,  he  seized  the 
Indian's  musket  with  the  same  hand,  pulled  him 
forwards,  and,  with  his  right,   drawing  a   dagger 

23* 


I 


?> 


H 


4 


''2QQ    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

which  hung  by  his  side,  plunged  it  into  the  barba- 
rian's side.  A  violent  struggle  ensued ;  but  at  length, 
Mr.  Peyton  was  uppermost,  and  with  repeated 
strokes  of  his  dagger,  killed  his  antagonist  outright. 
Here  he  was  seized  with  an  unaccountable  emotion 
of  curiosity,  to  know  whether  or  not  his  shot  had 
taken  place  on  the  body  of  the  Indian;  he  accor- 
dingly turned  him  up,  and  stripping  off  his  blanket, 
perceived  that  the  ball  had  penetrated  quite  through 
the  cavity  of  the  breast.  Having  thus  obtained  a 
dear  bought  victory,  he  started  up  on  one  leg,  and 
saw  Captain  Ochterlony  standing  at  the  distance  of 
sixty  yards,  close  by  the  enemy's  breast-work,  with 
the  French  soldier  attending  him.  Mr.  Peyton  then 
called  aloud,  *  Captain  Ocaterlony,  I  am  glad  to 
see  you  have  at  last  got  under  protection.  Beware 
of  that  villain,  who  is  more  barbarous  than  the  sav- 
ages. God  bless  you,  my  dear  captain.  I  see  a 
party  of  Indians  coming  this  way,  and  expect  to  be 
murdered  immediately.'  A  nunrber  of  those  barba- 
rians ha'9  for  some  time  been  employed  on  the  left, 
in  scalping  and  pillaging  the  dying  and  the  dead, 
that  were  left  upon  the  (ield  of  battle  ;  and  above 
thirty  of  them  were  in  full  march  to  destroy  Mr.  Pey- 
ton. This  gentleman  knew  he  had  no  mercy  to  ex- 
pect; for,  should  his  life  be  spared  for  the  present, 
they  would  have  afterwards  insisted  upon  sacrificing 
him  to  the  manes  of  their  brethrerf  whom  he  had 
slaiu ;  and  in  (hat  case,  he  would  have  been  put  to 
death  by  the  most  excrutiating  tortures.  Full  of  this 


I 


rEBEC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD   i\KD  QUEBEC.    267 


If 


the  barba- 
it  at  length, 
1  repeated 
ist  outright. 
)le  emotion 
lis  shot  had 
;  heaccor- 
lis  blanket, 
lite  through 
obtained  a 
>ne  leg,  and 
distance  of 
■work,  with 
Peyton  then 
am  glad  to 
I.  Beware 
lan  the  sav- 
n.  I  see  a 
expect  to  be 
hose  barba- 
on  the  left, 
1  the  dead, 
and  above 
oy  Mr.  Pey- 
nercy  to  ex- 
the  present. 
[1  sacrificing 
lom  he  had 
been  put  to 
Full  of  this 


idea,  he  snatched  up  his  musket,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing his  broken  leg,  ran  above  forty  yards  without  halt- 
ing; and  feeling  himself  now  totally  disabled,  and 
incapable  of  proceeding  one  step  further,  he  loaded 
his  piece,  and  presented  it  to  the  two  foremost  In- 
dians, who  stood  aloof,  waiting  to  be  joined  by  their 
fellows :  while  the  French,  from  their  breast-works, 
kept  up  a  continual  fire  of  cannon  and  small  arms 
upon  this  poor,  solitary,  maimed  gentleman.  In  this 
uncomfortable  situation  he  stood,  when  he  discerned 
at  a  distance,  a  Highland  officer,  with  a  party  of  his 
men,  skirting  the  plain  towards  the  field  of  battle. 
He  forthwith  waved  his  hand  in  signal  of  distress, 
and  being  perceived  by  the  officer,  he  detached 
three  of  his  men  to  his  assistance.  These  brave 
fellows  hastened  to  him  through  the  midst  of  a  ter- 
rible fire,  and  one  of  them  bore  him  off  on  his 
shoulders.  The  Highland  officer  was  Captain  Mac- 
donald,  of  Colonel  Frazer's  battalion  ;  who,  under- 
standing that  a  young  gentleman,  his  kinsman,  had 
dropped  on  the  field  of  battle,  had  put  himself  at  the 
head  of  this  party,  with  which  he  penetrated  to  the 
middle  of  the  field,  drove  a  considerable  number  of 
the  French  and  Indians  before  him,  and  finding  his 
relation  still  unscalped,  carried  him  off  in  triumph. 
Poor  Captain  Ochterlony  was  conveyed  to  Quebec, 
where,  in  a  few  days,  he  died  of  his  wounds.  After 
the  reduction  of  that  place,  the  French  surgeons 
who  attended  him,  declared  that,  in  all  probability, 
he  would  have  recovered  of  the  two  shots  he  had 


1 


)»' 


^•*.  fv 


'nM~-iiKa-ai^Mi 


•If 


!^ 


^\u 


^* 


368  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^VEBEC. 

received  in  his  breast,  had  he  not  been  mortally 
wounded  in  the  belly,  by  the  Indian^s  scalping 
knife.  * 

'^As  this  very  remarkable  scene  was  acted  in 
sight  of  both  armies,  General  Townshend,  in  the 
sequel,  expostulated  with  the  French  officers  upon 
the  inhumanity  of  keeping  up  such  a  severe  fire 
against  two  wounded  gentlemen,  who  were  disa- 
bled,  and  destitute  of  all  hope  of  escaping.  They 
answered,  that  the  fire  was  not  made  by  the  regu- 
lars, but  by  the  Canadians  and  savages,  whom  it 
was  not  in  the  power  of  discipline  to  restrain." 


1  ' 


« 


'    I 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  FALLS  OF  CHAUDIERE. 

Oct,  8. — With  our  faithful  Gouvan,  and  our  com- 
fortable calash,  we  crossed  the  St.  Lawrence  about 
the  middle  of  the  day.  We  had  come  down  to  the 
wharf  much  earlier,  and  waited  two  hours  for  the 
boat,  which  was  detained  on  the  other  side,  at  the 
command  of  a  party  of  the  officers  of  justice,  who 
had  gone  over  to  whip  a  culprit;  at  length,  a  great 
company  of  them  returned  in  the  boat,  with  their 
badges,  and  bringing  with  them  the  miserable  man. 
As  usual  elsewhere,  in  such  cases,  it  excited  and 
gratified  the  mob,  but  the  disgraced  and  chastised 
offender,  wore  an  aspect  very  different  from  the 
consequential  air  of  the  constables,  or  from  the  grin- 
ning insolence  of  the  populace. 


■m 


-  --*•",;  ■*  S" 


7EBEC. 

en  mortally 
n's  scalping 

^as  acted  in 
lend,  in  the 
>fficers  upon 
I  severe  fire 
>  were  disa- 
)ing.  They 
by  the  regu- 
es,  whom  it 
estrain." 


kUDlERE. 

ind  our  com* 
rrence  about 
down  to  the 
iours  for  the 
side,  at  the 
justice,  who 
ngth,  a  great 
t,  with  their 
lerable  man. 
excited  and 
nd  chastised 
nt  from  the 
om  the  grin- 


^^ 


TOUm  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  266 

• 

Arrived  on  the  opposite  shore,  we  soon  ascended 
the  steep  heights  of  Point  Levi— saw  where  Gene- 
ral Monckton  erected  his  batteries,  to  bombard  the 
city,  previous  to  the  unsuccessful  battle  at  Moatmo- 
renci — and  enjoyed  a  brilliant  and  new  view  of  Que- 
bec, and  of  its  environs — the  fortifications  and  pre- 
cipices appearing  particularly  grand  from  this  eleva- 
tion. 


DESCRIPTION  or  THE  VIGNETTE. — (See  title  pOgt.) 
VIEW  OF  QUEBEC  FROM  POINT  LEVI. 

No  position,  in  which  we  were  placed,  afforded 
us  so  impressive  a  view  of  the  rook  of  Quebec,  and 
particularly  of  its  castellated  appearance,  as  this  from 
the  summit  of  Point  Levi.  After  the  prints  that 
have  been  already  described,  this  will  be  readily 
intelligible.  The  distance  is  about  one  mile.  On  the 
extreme  left,  is  a  glimpse  of  the  heights  and  plains 
of  Abraham — on  the  extreme  right,  the  hills  about 
Beauport  and  Montmorenci.  Immediatt^ly  before 
us,  is  the  rock  of  Quebec;  and  the  exi-^rd  of  the 
part  that  is  seen,  is  about  one  mile :  nearly  the 
whole  of  it  is,  literally,  a  naked  rocky  preci- 
pice, almost  black,  and  composed  of  enormous 
strata  of  slate  and  limestone,  very  rude,  both  on 
account  of  their  natural  contortions,  and  the  effects 
of  blasting,  and  of  other  forms  of  violence  upon 
them.  On  the  summit  of  the  rock,  on  the  left  where 


1 


1 


i 


\i  W 


■ 

I.  i 


■*  '^^,  t 


|5 


l!  >li 


k/   \\ 


270   TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND   QUEBEC* 

it  is  three  hundred  and  forty-five  feet  high,  is  the 
citadel,  standing  on  Cape  Diamond ;  some  way  to 
the  right  of  this,  where  the  rock  declines  considera- 
bly in  height,  appears  the  castle  of  St.  Louis,  (more 
distinctly  exhibited  in  print  6.)  Still  further  to  the 
right,  and  scarcely  distinguishable  among  the  build- 
ings, is  the  Prescot  gate,  at  the  top  of  Mountain 
street,  which  comes  obliquely  up  from  the  lower 
town,  and  affords  the  only  communication  on  this 
side  of  the  rock.  Beyond  the  gate,  on  the  left,  is 
seen  the  English  Episcopal  Cathedral,  and,  to  the 
right,  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  parliament 
house,  the  seminary,  &c.  and,  in  froBt  of  these  last, 
is  the  wall  of  the  city,  with  embrasures  and  cannon, 
forming  the  grand  battery,  which  occupies  a  lower 
level,  or  natural  platform  of  the  rock,  here  about 
two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rock,  is  the  lower  town,  and,  if 
we  add  to  it  that  part  exhibited  from  Montmorenci, 
(print  8,)  we  have  then  very  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  lower  town  ;  it  may  be  added,  that  print  8,  and 
this  vignette,  in  connexion,  exhibit  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  rock  of  Quebec.  Nearly  on  the  extreme  left 
of  the  rock,  at  the  foot  of  Cape  Diamond,  in  the 
lower  town,  is  the  place  where  General  Montgome- 
ry was  slain,  on  the  mornings  of  December  .31, 1775, 
and}  on  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  or  grand 
battery,  is  the  street  wher«  General  Arnold's  party 
were  defeated  and  captured,  ou  the  same  occasion. 


UEhECt 

high,  is  the 
ome  way  to 
s  considera- 
jouis,  (more 
irther  to  the 
ig  the  build- 
er Mountain 
n  the  lower 
eition  on  this 
n  the  left,  is 
and,  to  the 
e  parliament 
of  these  last, 
and  cannon, 
ipies  a  lower 
,  here  about 

lown,  and,  if 

[ontmorenci, 

he  whole  of 

print  8,  and 

ly  the  whole 

extreme  left 

nond,  in  the 

Montgome- 

er  3 1, 1775, 

ck,  or  grand 

mold's  party 

ne  occasion. 


TOUR    BETWk-iiN    HARTFORD   AND  QUEREC.    271 

This  vignette  is  the  only  print  in  this  volume,  that 
is  not  original.     It  is  common  at  Quebec,  on  bank 

bills,  and,  Mr.  W ,  finding  it  so  very  exact  a 

representation  of  the  fine  scene,  which  we  contem- 
plated from  Point  Levi,  adopted,  and  copied  it,  with 
some  slight  variations.  The  engraver  has  given  it 
still  greater  precision,  by  reference  to  the  view  of 
Quebec,  on  Colonel  Bouchette's  topographical  map 
of  Lower  Canada. 


li 


The  villages  through  which  we  passed,  were  not 
so  well  built  as  Beauport ;  a  larger  proportion  of  the 
houses  were  constructed  of  logs,  and  the  people  ap- 
peared not  in  so  good  circumstances ;  but  still  they 
were  comfortable. 

The  road  to  Montmorenci  was  rough ;  that  over 
which  we  were  now  passing  was  smooth,  and,  com- 
pared with  any  other  roads  that  we  had  seen  in  Can- 
ada, it  was  very  fine.  We  passed  through  a  large 
settlement,  sustained  principally  by  the  great  lumber 
establishment  of  Mr.  Caldwell,  and  soon  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  over  which  we 
were  ferried. 

During  our  whole  ride  from  Point  Levi,  we  had 
been  gratified  by  a  succession  of  fine  views ;  the 
river — the  opposite  shores,  precipitous  in  almost 
every  direction — the  heights  of  Abraham — Cape 
Diamond,   and  the   upper  and  lower  town — the 


«    •■11 


f . 


«' 


f 


273  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

slopes  of  Beauport,  and  the  heights  of  Montmorenci 
— the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  bosom  of  the  river — 
some  of  these  features  were  constantly,  either  in 
prospect,  or  in  retrospect ;  and  we  saw  many  scenes 
which  would  have  been  well  worthy  of  the  pencil. 
Among  these,  one  was  selected,  of  which  the  an- 
nexed print  is  a  representation. 

PRINT   NO.   9. 


This  scene,  which  we  thought  not  to  be  ex- 
ceeded in  beauty  by  any  that  we  saw  in  Canada, 
was  sketched  from  the  left  bank  of  the  Chaudiere 
river,  at  its  mouth.  Our  road  from  Point  Levi,  con- 
ducted us  to  the  foot  of  the  precipice  of  rock,  which 
is  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Chaudiere  ;  and, 
while  a  larger  boat  was  getting  ready  to  convey  over 
carriages  and  horses,  Mr.  W.  had  the  good  fortune 
to  cross  first,  in  a  small  boat,  and  occupied  the  few 
moments,  before  the  rest  of  us  arrived,  in  securing 
the  outlines  of  this  grand  and  beautiful  prospect. 

It  was  seen  by  the  mildest,  softest  light,  of  an 
Indian  summer  afternoon— not  more  than  two  hours 
before  sun-setting  ;  and  there  was  a  mellowness  in 
the  tints,  especially  of  the  remoter  objects,  which, 
notwithstanding  the  grandeur  of  some  of  the  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape,  excited  still  stronger  percep- 
tions of  beauty.  These  impressions  were  heighten- 
ed by  contrast,  with  the  deep  black  gulf,  immediate- 
ly below  the  observer,  and  a  little  to  the  right. — 


it 


tUEBKC. 

Vlontmorenci 
if  the  river— 
lly,  either  in 
many  scenes 
>f  the  pencil, 
vhich  the  an- 


ot  to  be  ex- 

vf  in  Canada, 

ie  Chaudiere 

int  Levi,  con- 

f  rock,  which 

udiere ;  and, 

>  convey  over 

good  fortune 

ipied  the  few 

1,  in  securing 

prospect. 

t  light,  of  an 

lan  two  hours 

lellowness  in 

jects,  which, 

J  of  the  fea- 

nger  percep- 

ere  heighten- 

',  immediate- 

the  right. — 


I 


•l.ai» 


h< 


r 


««:■*-•■- 


■  i'  •■ . 


'^ 


h-i 


!  /, 


\  '^^^% 


■V'\'^ 


■*''♦ 


N 


<-- 


*^ 


«i 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    flUKBEC.    273 

This  is  the  mouth  of  a  very  considerable  river,  the 
Chaudiere,  which  here,  coming  from  the  south- 
cast,  pours  'ts  black  waters  into  the  deep  green  St. 
Lawrence,  and  is  so  imprisoned  between  very  ab- 
rupt, precipitous  shores,  principally  of  rock,^  but 
overhung  in  part  by  forest,  that,  from  the  high  bank 
where  the  view  was  taken,  only  a  part  of  the  river 
is  seen.  Some  idea  of  the  height  of  these  banks 
will  be  gained,  by  comparison  with  the  ships,  which 
here  lie  securely  anchored  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Chaudiere ;  they  are  European  ships,  in  quest  of 
lumber,  and  appeared  to  be  generally  of  between 
two  and  three  hundred  tons  burden. 

On  the  right,  at  the  distance  of  six  or  seven 
miles,  we  see  Point  Levi ;  in  the  middle  of  the  ex- 
treme distance,  are  the  hills  about  Montmorcnci, 
distant  about  twelve  miles  ;  on  the  smooth  expanse 
of  the  river  between,  numberless  ships  are  seen  to 
repose,  surrounded  and  tinged,  by  the  peculiarly 
attempered  light,  of  what  I  presume /?am/er5  would 
call  a  perfect  Claude  J.<orrain  sky.  On  the  left,  is 
Quebec,  with  its  citadel,  built  on  Cape  Diamond, 
and  nearer,  a  glimpse  of  a  part  of  the  plains  of 
Abraham,  with  some  of  the  Martello  towers.  The 
distance  is  about  six  miles,  and  tlie  bearing  nearly 
north-east  by  north ;  the  distance  by  the  road  is 
nine  miles. 


W'f 


*  I'he  rock  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  extremely  well  characteri- 
zed gray  uiackCf  (the  gr«y  wacke  of  Werner.) 

2.> 


f 

i 


'•^r 


274   TOUR  BETWEEN  HAUTFORD    AND  <4UeBEC. 


lit'  '  ' 


After  crossing  the  Chaudiere,  our  road  became 
more  rough,  and  was  evidently  much  less  frequent- 
ed. In  mounting  the  bank  from  the  Chaudiere,  it 
was  so  steep,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  the  horse 
dragged  up  the  empty  calash. 

Somewhat  less  than  two  miles  from  the  falls,  we 
turned  into  the  fields,  and,  at  a  farm-house,  obtain- 
ed a  French  Canadian  to  act  as  our  guide  through 
scenes,  which,  we  were  assured,  would,  to  stran- 
gers, soon  become  quite  a  labyrinth.  It  was  not 
long  before  we  were  obliged  to  leave  our  calash, 
and  proceed  on  foot,  when,  crossing  a  small  river, 
we  entered  a  forest,  where  an  obscure  cart  path, 
soon  dwindled  into  a  foot  path,  which  we  pursued 
over  a  rugged  and  unpleasant  variety  of  surface. 

The  afternoon  was  very  hoi,  and  we  were  much 
fatigued,  but  our  journey  was  rendered  less  irksome 

by  the  society  of  Mr.  H d,  an  interesting  young 

Hibernian,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Quebec. 

Owing  to  our  detention  at  the  ferry,  it  was  nearly 
sunset  when  we  arrived  at  the  falls,  and  we  were 
too  much  hurried  to  enjoy  the  Chaudiere  quite  at 
our  leisure,  as  we  yesterday  did  the  Montmo- 
renci. 

The  Chaudiere  is  a  river  of  considerable  magni- 
tude, but,  owing  to  its  numerous  rapids,  fills,  and 
various  obstructions,  it  is  scarcely  navigable,  even 


i 


m 


•• 


tl.i> 


<,  *■ 


<4U£BEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    q,UEBEC.    27o 


^iv 


'  road  became 
less  frequent- 
Chaudiere,  it 

ilty  the  horse 

fi  the  falls,  we 
louse,  obtain- 

uide  through 
uld,  to  stra li- 
lt was  not 
e  our  calash, 

a  small  river, 
ire  cart  path, 
h  we  pursued 

of  surface, 
ire  were  much 
d  less  irksome 
resting  young 
from  Quebec, 
it  was  nearly 
and  we  were 
here  quite  at 
he    Montmo- 

irable  magni- 
iHs,  falls,  and 
vigabic,  even 


for  canoes.  It  rises  from  the  Lake  Mogantic,  near 
the  American  territory :  its  general  width  is  from 
four  hundred  to  six  hundred  yards,  and  its  course 
is  more  than  one  hundred  milos  long,  'i'he  banks 
arc,  in  general,  high,  rocky,  and  steep,  "  the  bed 
rugged,  and  much  contracted  by  rocks,  jutting  from 
the  sides,  that  occasion  violent  rapids."* 

Among  the  falls  in  this  river,  those  which  we 
had  come  to  visit  are  the  most  considerable. 

Salient  points  of  rock  narrow  the  river  so  much, 
that  its  breadth  does  not  exceed  four  hundred  feet, 
and  the  descent  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  and 
thirty.^  Enormous  masses  of  rock  lie  on  the  shore, 
contiguous  to  the  falls,  and,  by  similar  masses,  the 
cataract  is  divided  into  three  parts,  which  reunite, 
I       before  they  plunge  into  the  abyss  at  the  bottom. 

Ledges  of  clay  slate,  alternating  with  gray  wacke 
slate,  and  red  slate,  here  form  the  natural  dam,  over 
which  the  water  is  precipitated.  I  saw  no  granite, 
as  Lieutenant  Hall  mentions  in  his  travels ;  and,  as 
the  region  is  a  t''ansition  one,  I  doubt  whether  he 
has  not  fallen  into  a  mistake  on  this  point. 

We  emerged  from  the  deep  gloom  of  the  forest, 
exactly  at  the  place  where  the  cataract  becomes 
visible,  although  the  sound  produced  by  it,  (at  a 
distance  scarcely  audible,)  had  been  for  some  time 
rapidly  increasing  on  the  car. 

This  cataract  is  grand,  and  wild,  and  turbulent, 
roaring,  and  dashing,  and  foaming  over  its  irregular 

*  Bouohcltp. 


^w  fV    / 


276    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 


'■!  ■  { 


bf 


bariier — current  encountering  current,  and  all 
plunging  into  a  restless  whirlpool,  boiling  with  in- 
cessant agitation  ;  thence,  undoubtedly,  its  French 
name  of  the  Pot,  or  boiling  Cauldron. 

Colonel  Bouchette  has  given  the  following  accu- 
rate sketch  of  these  falls :— '*  The  continual  action 
of  the  water,  has  worn  the  rock  into  deep  excava- 
tions, that  give  a  globularfigure  to  the  revolving  bod- 
ies of  white  foam,  as  they  descend,  and  greatly  in- 
crease the  beautiful  effect  of  the  fall ;  the  spray 
thrown  up,  being  quickly  spread  by  the  wind,  pro- 
duces, in  the  sun-shine,  a  most  splendid  variety  of 
prismatic  colors.  The  dark  hued  foliage  of  the 
woods,  that  on  each  side  press  close  upon  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river,  forms  a  striking  contrast  with  the 
snow-like  effulgence  of  the  falling  torrent ;  the  hur- 
ried motion  of  the  flood,  agitated  among  the  rocks 
and  hollows,  as  it  forces  its  way  towards  the  St 
Lawrence,  and  the  incessant  sound,  occasioned  bj 
the  cataract  itself,  form  a  combination  that  strikes 
forcibly  upon  the  senses,  and  amply  gratifies  the 
curiosity  of  the  admiring  spectator." 

The  falls  of  the  Chaudiere  are,  by  many,  con- 
sidered as  superior  to  those  of  the  Montmorenci ; 
but,  although  vastly  grander  on  account  of  their 
width,  and  the  great  quantity  of  water,  they  did  not 
strike  us,  ns  having  such  peculiar  benuties,  and  as 
differing  so  much  from  common  cataracts  ;  that  of 
Montmorenci  is  probably  without  a  parallel  in 
North-America. 


>  N 


>    QUEBEC. 

rent,  and  all 
oiling  with  in- 
lly,  its  French 
I. 

bllowing  accu- 
>ntinual  action 
>  deep  excava- 
revolvingbod- 
ind  greatly  in- 
fall ;  the  spray 
the  wind,  pro- 
did  variety  of 
foliage  of  the 
upon  the  mar- 
ntrast  with  the 
rent ;  the  hur- 
nong  the  rocks 
awards  the  St 
occasioned  by 
Dn  that  strikes 
y  gratifies  the 

t)y  many,  con- 
Montmorcnci ; 
count  of  their 
r,  they  did  not 
enutieSf  and  as 
Eiracts ;  that  of 
a  parallel   in 


ri 


TOVR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.  277 


The  Chaudiere  is  interesting,  from  its  connexion 
with  a  projected  road^  to  the  United  States.  The 
Canadian  settlements  on  the  river  du  Loup,  are 
seventy  miles  from  the  nearest  American  settle- 
ments on  the  Kennebec,  and  only  twenty  from  the 
American  line.  A  mountainous  ridge  intervenes — 
it  is  quite  wild,  but  is  intersected  by  numerous 
rivers  and  streams,  and  would,  without  doubt,  afford 
practicable  passes  for  roads.  A  mutual  good  un- 
derstanding between  the  contiguous  countries,  would 
soon  effect  the  object ;  indeed,  Massachusetts,  be- 
fore the  late  war,  appointed  commissioners  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  road  to  the  height  of  land  : 
7'his  will  probably  be  effected  at  a  future,  and  not 
very  distant  period,  and  will  bring  Quebec  within 
a  distance  of  no  more  than  two  hundred  miles  by 
land,  from  Hallowel,  on  the  Kennebec  ;  and  thence 
to  the  ocean,  the  communication  is  uninterrupted. 
By  this  road,  it  will  be  only  three  hundred  and 
seventy  miles  to  Boston.  From  Quebec,  there  is 
already  an  excellent  road  for  fifty  miles  up  the 
Chaudiere,  and  n  tolerable  one  to  the  settlements 
on  the  river  du  Loup.* 


♦  It  was  by  this  route,  that  Geiwral  Arnold's  party,  in  1775, 
penetrated  tu  Quebec. 

i  Bouchettc. 

24* 


1^ 


I 


/^X 


->-/l 


^j^^m.  t«7    f 


278    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC^* 


It  was  eight  o'clock,  and  quite  dark,  before,  on 
our  return,  we  reached  the  ferry,  at  Point  Levi ; 
the  steam-boat  had  stopped  for  the  night,  and  no 
persuasions  or  temptations  of  ours  could  induce  the 
boatmen  to  put  out  again.  Fortunately  for  us,  a 
party  arrived  soon  after,  who  appeared  to  be  persons 
of  injfluence,  belonging  to  Quebec,  and  they  indu- 
ced the  boatmen  to  go ;  we  fell  into  the  train,  and 
thus  they  did  us  good,  probably  without  intend- 
ing it. 

Our  late  arrival  gave  us  the  pleasure  of  enjoying 
a  night  view  of  Quebec,  from  a  position  where, 
otherwise,  we  should  not  have  seen  it.  The  few 
lights  that  were  visible,  in  the  upper  town,  served 
merely  to  mark  its  outline.  The  lower  town  look- 
ed like  the  illuminated  foot  of  a  gloomy  mountain. 
It  was  so  dark,  when  we  landed,  that  the  dirt  of 
the  lower  town  could  not  be  seen,  and  we  wound 
our  way  up  through  the  steep  and  intricate  passages, 
rendered  faintly  visible  by  a  few  lamps,  which  shed 
just  light  enough  to  exhibit  the  antique  fashion  of 
the  houses,  and  to  render  us  sensible  of  the  gloom 
©fits  narrow  crowded  streets.  Mr.  W— rode, 
but  I  walked  with  Mr.  H d,  and  just  as  we  pass- 
ed through  the  perfectly  dark  arch  of  the  Pres- 
cot  gate,  and  issuing  into  the  city,  a  flash,  like  light- 
ning, illuminated  the  upper  town,  and  was  instant- 
ly followed  by  the  thunder  of  the  evening  gun.  It 
seeded  but  little  help  from  imagination  to  make  us 
believe  that  we  were  entering  a  fortress  of  the  dark 


n. 


._,^^_ 


■  *♦<•  * '—- 


A^ 


aVEBEC« 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND   <IUEBEC.    279 


k,  before,  on 
Point  Levi ; 
light,  and  no 
lid  induce  the 
tely  for  us,  a 
to  be  persons 
tid  they  indu- 
:he  train,  and 
thout  intend- 

re  of  enjoying 

isition  where, 

it.     The  (ew 

town,  served 

rer  town  look- 

my  mountain. 

lat  the  dirt  of 

d  we  wound 

cate  passages, 

fs,  which  shed 

ue  fashion  of 

of  the  gloom 

W rode, 

ist  as  we  pass- 
of  the  Pres- 
ish,  like  light- 
i  was  instant- 
;ning  gun.  It 
Oil  to  make  us 
iss  of  the  dark 


ages,  and  the  grand  flourish  of  martial  music,  which 
immediately  burst  upon  our  ears,  with  the  full  swell 
and  deep  intonation  of  bugles,  clarionets,  and  trum- 
pets, and  other  wind  instruments,  was  well  adapted 
to  increase  the  illusion.  The  imperfect  light 
served  to  magnify  the  size  of  the  place  d'armes, 
or  military  parade,  in  which  we  were  arrived,  and 
we  hastened  to  the  opposite  side  of  it,  contiguous 
to  the  barracks,  (formerly  the  College  of  the  Jesu- 
its.) Here  we  found  the  band,  consisting  of  about 
twenty  Germans,  who  continued  to  play  for  some 
time,  and  seemed  as  much  gratified  with  their  own 
music,  as  if  it  had  possessed,  for  them,  the  charm 
©f  novelty. 


PLAINS  OF  ABRAHAM. 

I  have  several  times  had  occasion  to  mention  that 
the  weather  has  been  very  fine,  since  we  have  been 
in  Canada.  It  has  been  particularly  so,  since  our 
arrival  at  Quebec,  and  the  thermometer  has  been 
at  summer  heat,  or  even  above,  so  that  our  excur- 
sions up  and  down  the  streets  of  this  mountainous 
city,  and  over  its  environs,  has  been  sometimes 
very  fatiguing. 

On  one  of  the  fine  mornings,  we  drove  out 
through  the  magnificent  gate  of  St.  Louis,  to  the 
celebrated  plains  of  Abraham,  for  no  one  would 
leave  Quebec,  without  visiting  the  ground  on  which 
was  fought  the  battle,  that  decided  the  fate  of  Can- 


n 


\- 


.h 


V-. 


i 


-^r^*' 


h 


t  I 


k 


580  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

ada,  and  ultimately  terminated  the  empire  of  the 
French  in  North-America. 

There  are  probably  few  scenes  of  warfare,  which 
are  more  intelligible  than  those  in  this  vicinity.  It 
is  rery  obvious,  (after  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  peculiarities  of  the  place,)  that  any  army  that  is 
to  act  against  Quebec,  must  encounter  very  uncom- 
mon difficulties.  We  have  already  had  occasion 
to  advert  to  some  of  them,  while  speaking  of  the 
scenes  that  occurred  at  Montmorenci. 

The  unsuccessful  termination  of  that  affair,  evin- 
ced, that  nothing  was  to  be  hoped  from  any  addi- 
tional efforts  in  that  quarter.  The  season  was  al- 
ready far  advanced — the  expected  co-operation 
from  General  Amherst,  by  the  way  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  from  General  Johnson,  through  lake  On- 
tario, had  not  been  realized,  and  it  became  abso- 
lutely neccssar)'  to  attempt  something  decisive,  as 
the  season  would  eoon  compel  the  English  to  aban- 
don the  campaign.  The  camp  at  Montmorenci  was 
therefore  broken  up,  and  on  the  sixth  of  Septem- 
ber, the  troops  were  embarked,  and  transported  up 
the  river;  they  were  landed  for  a  season,  at  Point 
Levi,  and  refreshed  on  the  soiUhern  shore,  but  after 
some  days,  again  went  on  board,  and  were  convey- 
ed three  leagues  above  the  city.  General  Mont- 
calm dispatched  a  corps  of  observation  after  them, 
consisting  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  men,  under 
General  Bougainville,  but  still  maintained  his  sta- 
tion with  the  main  army,  at  Beauport. 


n 


Ni 


QUEBEC. 

smpire  of  the 

irarfare,  which 
s  vicinity.  It 
qiiainted  with 
y  army  that  is 
r  very  uncom- 
had  occasion 
eaking  of  the 

• 

it  affair,  evin- 
rom  any  addi- 
leason  was  al- 
co-operation 
r  Lake  Cham- 
ongh  lake  On- 
became  abso- 
ig  decisive,  as 
igiish  to  aban- 
itmorenci  was 
h  of  Septem- 
ransported  up 
ison,  at  Point 
lore,  but  after 
were  convey- 
eneral  Mont- 
on  after  them, 
d  men,  under 
ained  his  sta< 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  28t 

On  the  twelfth  of  September,  one  hour  after 
midnight,  General  Wolfe,  with  his  army,  leaving 
the  ships,  embarked  in  boats,  and  silently  dropped 
down  with  the  current,  intending  to  land  a  league 
above  Cape  Diamond,  and  thus  to  gain  the  heights 
of  Abraham.  But,  owing  to  the  rapidity  of  the 
current,  they  fell  below  their  intended  place,  and 
disembarked  at  what  is  now  called  Wolfe's  cove, 
a  mile,  or  a  mile  and  a  half,  above  the  city.  The 
operation  was  a  most  critical  one— they  had  to 
navigate  in  silence,  down  a  rapid  stream — to  hit 
upon  the  right  place  for  a  landing,  which  in  the 
dark,  might  be  easily  mistaken — the  shore  was 
shelving,  and  the  bank  to  be  ascended  was  steep 
and  lofty,  and  scarcely  practicable,  even  without 
opposition.  Doubtless,  it  was  this  combination  of 
circumstances,  which  lulled  the  vigilance  of  the 
wary  and  discerning  Montcalm :  he  thought  such 
an  enterprise  absolutely  impracticable,  and  there- 
fore had  stationed  only  sentinels  and  picket  guards 
along  this  precipitous  shore. 

Indeed,  the  attempt  was,  in  the  greatest  danger 
of  being  defeated  by  an  occurrence,  which  is  very 
interesting,  as  marking  much  more  emphatically, 
than  dry  official  accounts  can  do,  the  very  great 
delicacy  of  the  transaction. 

One  of  the  French  sentinels,  posted  along  the 
shore,  challenged  the  English  boats  in  the  customa- 
ry military  language  of  the  French,  "Qui  vii !"  wh» 
goes  there !  to  which  a  Captain  of  Frazer's  regiment. 


t 


n 


ft  ) 


if.  I 


'  «« 


y* 


M 


1 1    -,« 


*H 


282  TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AN»  QUEBEC. 

who  had  served  in  Holland,  and  was  famihar  with 
the  French  language  and  customs,  promptly  replied, 
"/a  France,''^  The  next  question  was  much  more 
embarrassing,  for  the  sentinel  demanded  "  a  quel 
regiment  ?"  "  to  what  regiment."  The  Captain  who 
happened  to  know  the  name  of  one  of  the  regiments 
which  was  up  the  river,  with  Bougainville,  promptly 
rejoined,  '*  de  la  Reine,^^—"'  the  Queen's."  The  sol- 
dier immediately  replied,  ''passe,^^  for  he  concluded 
at  once,  that  this  was  a  French  convoy  of  provisions, 
which,  as  the  English  had  learned,  from  ^ome  de- 
serters, was  expected  to  pass  down  the  river  to 
Quebec.  The  other  sentinels  were  deceived  in  a 
similar  manner;  but  one,  h'ss  credulous  than  the 
rest,  running  down  to  the  water's  edge,  called  out, 
*'Pourquoi  est  ce  que  vous  ne  parlez  plus  haut?" 
"  Why  dont  you  speak  louder?"  The  same  cap- 
tain, with  perfect  self-command,  replied,  ^^  Tai  toi, 
nous,  serons,  entendues !"  ^'  Hush,  we  shall  be  over- 
heard and  discovered."^  The  sentry  satisfied  with 
this  caution  retired.  The  British  boats  were  on 
the  point  of  being  fired  into,  by  the  captain  of  one 
of  their  own  transport  ships,  who,  ignorant  of  what 
was  going  on,  took  them  for  French ;  but  General 
Wolfe  perceiving  a  commotion  on  board,  rowed 
along  side  in  person,  and  prevented  the  firing  which 
would  have  alarmed  the  town,  and  frustrated  the 
enterprize.  General  Wolfe,  although  greatly  re- 
duced by  a  fever,  to  which  a  dysentery  was  super- 


'    / 


*  Snaollet,  Vel.  v.  p.  56. 


I'l 


N^ 


;^-»- 


Q,UEBEC. 


TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD    AND    <%UBBF.C.     283 


familiar  with 

nptly  replied, 
IS  much  more 

nded  "  a  quel 
B  Captain  who 
the  regiments 
ille,  promptly 
I's."  Thesol- 
rhe  concluded 
fT  of  provisions, 
"rom  ^ome  de- 
1  the  river  to 
deceived  in  a 
ilous  than  the 
ge,  called  out, 
z  plus  haul?" 
'he  same  cap- 
lied,  "  Tai  toi, 
5  shall  be  over- 
y  satisfied  with 
boats  were  on 
captain  of  one 
norant  of  what 
;  but  General 
board,  rowed 
he  firing  which 
frustrated  the 
gh  greatly  re- 
ery  was  super- 


added, was  nevertheless  the  first  man  to  leap 
ashore.  The  rugged  precipices,  full  of  projections 
of  rocks  and  of  trees,  and  shrubs  growing  every 
where  among  the  cliffs,  into  which  the  bank  was 
broken,  presented  a  most  forbidding  appearance, 
and  General  Wolfe  familiarly  speaking  to  an  officer 
who  stood  by,  said,  "  I  don't  believe  there  is  any 
possibility  of  getting  up,  but  you  must  do  your  en- 
deavour." There  was  only  a  narrow  path,  leading 
obliquely  up  the  hill;  this  had  been  rendered  by 
the  enemy  impassable,  in  consequence  of  being 
broken  up  by  cross  ditches,  and  there  was  besides 
an  entrenchment  at  the  top,  defended  by  a  captain's 
guard.*  This  guard  was  easily  dispersed,  and  the 
troops  then  pulled  themselves  up  by  taking  hold  of 
the  boughs  and  stumps  of  the  trees  and  of  the  pro- 
jections of  the  rocks. 

This  precipice,  (which  may  be  in  different  places, 
from  one  hundred  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  hi^h,) 
is  still  very  rude  and  rugged,  but  probably  much 
less  so  than  in  1759;  it  can  now  be  surmounted, 
without  very  great  difliculty,  by  men  who  are  un- 
molested. 

Wolfe  staked  all,  upon  a  very  hazardous  adven- 
ture; had  he  been  discovered  prematurely,  through 
a  spy,  a  deserter,  or  an  alarmed  sentry,  his  army 

*  A  private  soKlier  belonging  to  this  e;utird,  and  named  La 
Rauine,  who  was  shot  tlir.ugh  the  thigh  on  this  occasion,  was 
latfily  living  on  the  River  Sorel,  and  may  be  still  alive — he  was 
seutmel  in  the  path. — (I'rivate  communicatioQ  from  Canada,  Jan, 
25,  1824.) 


■1' 


J. 


I  ■ . 


284  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

would  have  been  inevitably  lost;  but  having  gained 
the  heights,  he  formed  his  troops,  and  met  the  ene- 
my in  good  order. 

The  plains  of  Abraham  lie  South  and  West  of 
Quebec,  and  commence  the  moment  you  leave  the 
walls  of  the  city.  They  are  a  very  elevated  tract 
of  ground ;  this  must  of  course  be  the  fact,  as  they 
are  on  the  summit  of  the  heights  which  terminate  at 
the  river;  they  are  nearly  level— -free  from  trees  and 
all  other  obstacles,  and  I  presume  were  nearly  so* 
at  the  time  of  the  battle.  Our  military  friend,  Cap- 
tain   ,  with  true  professional  feeling,  remarked, 

that  it  was  "a  fine  place  for  a  battle,*^  I  went  to 
the  brink  of  the  precipice,  where  my  guide  assured 
me  that  Wolfe  and  the  army  came  up ;  a  foot  path, 
much  trodden,  leads  through  low  bushes  to  the  spot. 
I  presume,  that  five  hundred  men,  posted  on  this 
edge,  would  have  repelled  the  whole  army. 

It  was  abput  an  hour  before  the  dawn,  that  the 
army  began  to  ascend  the  precipice,  and  by  day 
light,  they  were  formed  and  in  perfect  preparation, 
to  meet  the  enemy. 

The  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  was  no  sooner  in- 
formed, that  the  English  troops  were  in  possession 
of  the  heights  of  Abraham,  than  he  prepared  to 
fight  them,  and  for  this  purpose  marched  his  army 
across  the  Charles,  from  his  entrenchments  at 
Beauport,  and  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock  the  two 
armies  met,  face  to  face.  Montcalm's  numbers 
were  nearly  the  same  as  those  of  the  £nglit>h  army, 

*  Except  perhaps  on  their  coDfines. 


7. 


)  QUEBEC. 

it  having  gained 
id  met  the  enc- 

th  and  West  of 
it  you  leave  the 
f  elevated  tract 
he  fact,  as  they 
lich  terminate  at 
le  from  trees  and 
were  nearly  so* 
tary  friend,  Cap- 
eling,  remarked, 
[//«.*'  I  went  to 
iiy  guide  assured 
up ;  a  foot  path, 
ushes  to  the  spot, 
n,  posted  on  this 
ole  army, 
le  dawn,  that  the 
)ice,  and  by  day 
rfcct  preparation, 

as  no  sooner  in- 
rere  in  possession 
1  he  prepared  to 
marched  his  army 
entrenchments  at 
en  o'clock  the  two 
ntcalm's  numbers 
the  English  army, 
confines. 


TOUR    UETWKEN    HAKTFOflD  AND    QIJEBEC.    206 

but  nearly  half  of  his  troops  were  Indians  and  Ca- 
nadians, while  the  whole  of  Wolfe's  were  disciplin- 
ed corps  of  the  be^^t  description.  The  French 
general  could  not  now,  as  at  Montmorenci,  avail 
himself  of  the  cover  of  entrenchments,  behind 
which  undisciplined  troops,  especially  if  skilled  in 
marksmanship,  have  often  repelled  the  assaults  of 
veterans. 

Montcalm  made,  however,  the  best  possible  dis- 
position of  his  troops — apportioning  his  regulars,  in 
such  distinct  bodies,  along  the  line,  as  to  sup])ort 
the  irregulars,  in  the  most  effectual  manner.  In  front, 
among  the  corniields  and  bushes,  he  placed  one 
thousand  five  hundred  of  his  best  marksmen,  prin- 
cipally Indians  and  Canadians,  whose  destructive  fire 
was  patiently  borne  by  the  British  line;*  but  they 
reserved  their  own  till  the  enemy,  whose  main  body 
they  perceived  rapidly  advancing,  was  within  forty 
yards,  when  it  was  poured  in  upon  the  French, 
and  continued  with  such  deadly  effect,  that  it  could 
not  be  withstood.      The  French  fought  bravely,  but 
they  were  broken,  and  notwithstanding  one  or  two 
efforts  to  make  a  stand,  and  renew  the  attack,  they 
were  so  successfully  pushed  by  the  British  bayonet, 
and  hewn  down  by  the  Highland  broad  sword,  that 
their  discomfiture  was  complete.     The  battle  was 
particularly  severe  on  the  French  left,  and  the  Eng- 
lish right.     This  ground  is  very  near  the  St.  Law- 

•The  adranced  guards  had  exchanged  sliots  for  some  hoars 

before. 

25 


i  'V 


i 


i 


4 


}'{ 


'  w 


\ 


■-..  „.«►•■«•—' 


*>s 


U 


(  ! 


2B6    TOUK  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (iUEBEU. 


h^ 


rence,  and  but  a  little  distance  in  front  of  the  cita- 
del, and  all  the  events  that  passed  there,  must  have 
been  distinctly  seen  by  those  on  the  walls  of  Que- 
bec. It  must  have  been  a  most  interesting  spec- 
tacle, and  we  can  easily  enter  into  the  feelings  of 
the  American  French,  who  viewed  their  country 
and  their  city,  and  their  firesides  and  homes,  as  in- 
volved in  the  issue  of  this  battle.  With  what  emo- 
tions then,  must  they  have  seen  their  defenders,  not 
only  falling  in  the  ranks,  but  driven  by  the  furious 
onset  of  the  enemy,  to  the  walls  of  the  city,  where 
they  were  slaughtered  by  the  bayonet  and  broad 
sword;  on  the  very  glacis,  and  in  the  ditches,  im- 
mediately under  their  eyes*  About  one  thousand 
of  the  French  were  killed  and  wounded,  and  more 
than  half  that  number  of  the  English,  and  it  is 
thought  that  the  French  army  would  have  been  to- 
tally destroyed,  if  the  city  had  not  opened  its  gates, 
to  receive  a  part,  and  if  another  part  had  not  taken 
refuge  in  the  works  over  the  St.  Charles. 

Montcalm  was  on  the  French  left,  and  Wolfe  on 
the  English  right,  and  here  they  both  fell  in  the 
critical  moment  that  decided  the  victory.  Wolfe, 
early  in  the  action,  received  a  bullet  in  his  wrist,  but 
he  bound  it  around  with  his  handkerchief,  and  con- 
tinued to  encourage  his  troops;  soon  after, another 
ball  penetrated  his  groin,  but  this  wound,  although 
much  more  severe,  he  concealed,  and  persevered, 
till  a  third  bullet  pierced  his  breast.  It  was  not  till 
that  moment,  that  he  submitted  to  be  carried  into 


•*.  -  ^ 


(iU£lSLC. 

nt  of  the  cita- 
ere,  must  have 
walls  of  Que- 
:eresting  spec- 
the  feelings  of 

their  country 
I  homes,  as  in- 
ith  what  emo- 
defenders,  not 
by  the  furious 
he  city,  where 
net  and  broad 
le  ditches,  im- 
;  one  thousand 
ded,  and  nnore 
lish,  and  it  is 
have  been  to- 
kened its  gates, 
t  had  not  taken 
irles. 

,  and  Wolfe  on 
oth  fell  in  the 
:tory.  Wolfe, 
in  his  wrist,  but 
chief,  and  con- 
1  after,  another 
ound,  although 
nd  persevered, 

It  was  not  till 
)e  carried  into 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (JUEBEC.  287 

ihe  rear  of  the  line  :  he  was  no  longer  able  to  stand, 
and  leaned  his  head  upon  the  shoulder  of  a  lieuten- 
ant, who  sat  down  for  that  purpose — when,  being 
aroused  by  the  distant  sound  of  "  they  fly — they 
fly,"  he  eagerly  asked,  "  who  fly  ?"  and  being  told 
it  was  the  French,  he  replied,  then  "  I  die  happy." 
He  asked  to  be  sustained  on  his  feet,  that  he  might 
once  more  behold  the  field,  but  his  eyes  were  al- 
ready swimming  in  death,  his  vision  was  gone,  and 
he  expired  on  the  spot.  This  death  has  furnished 
a  grand  and  pathetic  subject  for  the  painter,  the 
poet,  and  the  historian,  and  undoubtedly  (consider- 
ed as  a  specimen  of  mere  military  glory,)  it  is  one 
of  the  most  sublime  that  the  annals  of  war  aflbrd. 
From  my  earliest  childhood,  I  had  ardently  wished 
to  see  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and  to  stand  on  the 
place  where  Wolfe  expired.  To-day  I  enjoyed  that 
pensive  satisfaction,  and  easily  passed  in  imagina- 
tion, from  the  quiet  and  security  in  which  we  saw 
these  beautiful  plains,  to  the  tremendous  collision 
of  ten  thousand  men  in  arms. 

A  round  stone  of  red  granite,  four  or  five  feet  in 
circumference  by  two  or  three  in  diameter — not  a 
fixed  rock,  but  a  loose  stone,  marks  the  spot  where 
Wolfe  expired  in  the  moment  of  victory.  This  stone 
was  placed  here  thirty  years  after  the  battle*— and  is 
one  of  the  four  stones  arrai)gc<l  in  a  meridian  line  by 
the  surveyor  general  of  Canada,  in  1790,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  adjusting  the  instruments  used  in  the  public 

^Bouohctte 


I 


I. ; 


t  s 


Ifl 


•1(1 


--y*' 


r>.'*' 


n 


288  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

surveys  of  land.  This  stone  has  been  so  much  round- 
ed, by  having  portions  detached  by  visitors,  that  it 
was  ,  with  the  utmost  difficulty  I  could  knock 
ofTa  small  piece.  Fortunately,  the  entire  stone 
is  too  large  to  be  carried  away,  and  it  cannot  be 
broken  to  pieces,  except  by  gunpowder. 
.  A  fine  mounument  to  Lord  Nelson,  graces  the 
market  place  in  Montreal — but  there  is  no  monu- 
ment to  Wolfe,  even  on  the  spot  where  he  fell. 

When  I  expressed  to  an  English  officer,  my  sur- 
prise at  this  omission,  he  reminded  me,  (what  in- 
deed might  have  been  very  obvious  upon  a  little  re- 
flection,) that  the  feelings  of  a  French  population 
wore  not  to  be  forgotten,  and,  that  such  a  monument 
might  be  offensive  to  them.* 

The  victorious  hero  has  engrossed  the  plaudits  of 
the  world,  but  Montcalm  deserved  as  much  com- 
mendation as  Wolfe.  Except  the  massacre  at  Fort 
William  Henry,  (which,  however,  it  is  said  he  ex- 
erted himself,  although  unsuccessfully,  to  prevent,) 
I  know  of  no  other  imputation  on  his  memory ;  and 
in  talent,  military  skill,  and  personal  courage,  and 
devotion  to  his  king  and  country,  he  was  in  no  way 
inferior  to  his  rival.  He  survived  long  enough  to 
write  a  letter,  with  his  own  hand,  to  the  English 

*  Nearly  opposite  to  our  lodgings  in  St.  Juhn-strcet,  is  the  only 
monumeut  to  VVolf-,  which  we  saw  in  Quebec.  It  is  a  statue,  1 
believe,  of  wood,  handsomely  carved,  and  about  as  large  as  life ; 
it  is  in  the  milit»ry  costume  of  that  day,  and  is  said  to  be  a  gooU 
liken«>99  of  VVolfc.  It  «tand»  in  a  niche,  in  the  angle  of  a  bouse, 
or  aliop,  and  exposed  to  the  weather. 


';  • 


QUEBEC. 

>  much  round- 
isitors,  that  it 
could  knock 
entire  stone 
it  cannot  be 
ler. 

>n,  graces  the 
is  no  monu- 
re  he  fell, 
ficer,  my  sur- 
me,  (what  in- 
pon  a  little  re- 
ch  population 
li  a  monument 

the  plaudits  of 
as  much  com- 
ssacre  at  Fort 
is  said  he  ex- 
U  to  prevent,) 
memory ;  and 
courage,  and 
(vas  in  no  way 
)ng  enough  to 
to  the  English 

street,  is  the  only 
.  It  is  a  statue,  1 
It  as  large  as  life ; 
said  to  be  a  g;ooU 
angle  of  a  bouse, 


\\\ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAUTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  289 

General,  recommending  the  French  prisoners  to 
his  humanity,  and,  when  informed  that  his  wound 
was  mortal,  he  expressed  great  satisfaction  that  he 
should  not  live  to  see  the  fall  of  Quebec,  which 
capitulated  five  days  after.  Montcalm's  second  in 
command,  General  Senezergus,  also  died  of  his 
wounds.  „ 

Had  Montcalm  succeeded  in  preserving  Canada 
from  conquest,  and  had  Quebec  been  successfully 
defended  by  his  valor,  his  fame  would  have  been 
extolled  as  much  as  that  of  Wolfe  now  is. 

This  victory  was,  in  its  consequences,  of  immense 
importance.  It  eventually  terminated  a  long  course 
of  bloody  wars ;  it  gave  permanent  peace  and  secu- 
rity to  the  English  colonies,  rescued  their  vast  fron- 
tier from  all  the  horrors  of  savage  warfare,  and 
even  contributed  largely  to  the  general  pacification 
of  Europe.  It  is  one  of  the  great  epochs  of  Amer- 
ican history.  The  French  dominion  in  America, 
utterly  incompatible  with  the  repose  or  safety  of 
the  English  settlements,  and,  after  enduring  one 
hundred  and  fifly  years,  was  soon  to  be  finally  ter- 
minated. Thus  a  providence,  probably  at  the  time 
unseen  and  unobserved,  by  any  of  the  parties,  was 
preparing  the  way  for  American  independence. 

No  American  can,  therefore,  contemplate  with 
indifTerence,  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell,  and  so  mu 
gallant  blood  was  spilt. 

The  French  had  still  a  powerful  army,  and  some 
naval  force   about  the  city,   and  in   the  ensuing 

25* 


Si»      v 


$ 


■\" 


»    ■ 


/  t- 


Ji 


290  TOUR  BETWEEN  HAHTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


>s 


!  i  I 


f 


'J        t 


spring,  Monsieur  Levi  approached  it  from  Mon- 
treal, for  the  purpose  of  recovering  it  from  the  Eng- 
lish. General  Murray,  who  commanded  in  Que- 
bec, marched  out  to  meet  him,  and,  on  the  28th  of 
April,  1760,  a  bloody  battle  occurred,  three  miles 
above  the  city,  at  Sillery  ;  the  English  army,  very 
much  inferior  in  numbers,  to  the  French,  was  se- 
verely defeated,  with  the  loss  of  one  thousand  men, 
and  the  French,  it  is  said,  suffered  still  more.  The 
English  retreated  into  Quebec,  to  which  the  French 
now  laid  siege,  and,  very  possibly,  would  have  re- 
duced it,  but  for  the  arrival  of  an  English  squadron, 
with  reinforcements,  when  they  abandoned  the 
seige,  and  retired  up  the  river. 

How  large  a  portion  of  the  history  of  modern 
Europe  is  occupied  by  the  wars  of  England  and 
France !  What  rivers  of  each  other's  blood,  as 
well  as  of  the  blood  of  other  nations,  have  not  these 
rival  empires  shed !  Heroic,  enlightened,  refined, 
learned,  enterprising,  both  claiming  the  name  of 
christian }  had  their  efforts  been  equally  directed 
to  promote  the  welfare  of  their  own  respective  do- 
minions, of  each  other,  and  of  the  world,  by  culti- 
vating the  arts  of  peace,  and  the  virtues  of  civil  life, 
what  good  might  they  not  have  done!  But  like 
ferocious  beasts  of  prey,  they  have  hunted  each 
other  out  of  every  niche  and  corner  of  the  globe ; 
every  colony,  every  little  cluster  of  traders,  or  of 
agriculturalists — every  wandering  bark,  if  belonging 
to  the  rival  power,  has  been  exposed  to  these  cruel 
assaults. 


QUEBEC. 

from  Mon- 
rom  the  Eng- 
ded  in  Que- 
ll the  28th  of 

three  miles 
1  army,  very 
3nch,  was  se- 
lousand  men, 
1  more.  The 
;h  the  French 
ould  have  re- 
ish  squadron, 
andoned   the 

ry  of  modern 
England  and 
ir's  blood,  as 
lave  not  these 
;ned,  refined, 
the  name  of 
Lially  directed 
cspective  do- 
Drld,  by  culti- 
J8  of  civil  life, 
ne!  But  like 
hunted  each 
of  the  globe ; 
traders,  or  of 
{,  if  belonging 
to  these  cruel 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  29 1 

In  which  quarter  of  the  world,  on  what  ocean  or 
sea,  in  what  country,  on  what  island,  or  on  what 
coast,  of  remotest  India  or  America,  have  they  not 
opened  each  other's  veins,  till  the  earth  cries  out 
upon  them,  for  blood  unrighteously  shed  ? 


FORTIFICATIONS  OF  QUEBEC. 

The  strongest  town  in  America,  and  one  of  the 
strongest  in  the  world,  demands  a  brief  notice  in 
this  respect,  although  it  will  be  such,  as  one  unskil- 
led in  military  affairs,  can  give. 

It  is  quite  obvious,  from  what  has  been  said,  that 
Quebec  is  possessed  of  great  natural  advantages. 
The  lofty  perpendicular  precipices  of  naked  rock, 
which,  on  the  south  and  east,  separate  a  great  part 
of  the  lower  town  from  the  upper,  constitute,  in 
themselves,  on  those  sides,  an  insurmountable  bar- 
rier ;  the  river  Charles,  with  its  shallow  waters,  and 
low  flats,  of  sand  and  mud,  drained  almost  dry,  by 
the  retiring  of  the  tide,  forms  an  insuperable  impe- 
diment to  the  erection  of  commanding  works,  or  to 
the  access  of  ships  on  the  east  and  north,  not  to 
mention  that  all  this  ground  is  perfectly  commanded, 
by  the  guns  from  the  upper  town.  The  only  vul- 
nerable point  is  on  the  west  and  south,  from  the 
plains  of  Abraham.  Cape  Diamond,  the  highest 
point  of  the  town,  it  is  true,  is  rather  more  elevated 
than  any  part  of  the  plains,^  but  the  highest  ground 

*'  Only  ten  or  fifteeo  (ect.^ Bouehelte. 


if 


•*» 


# 


t.  < 


r/-'*' 
..^ 


-r^ 


I  !  J! 


292  TOTJR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (^T'EREC. 


^        * 


.  .1: 


on  the  plains  of  Abraham,  (the  place  which  is  called 
Ferguson's  house,)  "  commands  most  of  the  works 
on  this  side  of  the  town  ;"  besides,  there  is  no  bar- 
pier  of  rock,  no  river,  ravine,  marsh,  or  other  natu- 
ral obstacle,  to  hinder  an  approach  upon  this  side ; 
this  is  the  vulnerable  side  of  Quebec,  and  here, 
therefore,  it  is  fortified  with  the  most  anxious  care. 

"  The  distance  across  the  peninsula,  from  one 
river  to  the  other,  in  front  of  the  line  of  fortification, 
is  one  thousand,  eight  hundred  thirty-seven  yards,"* 
or  very  nearly,  one  mile — the  circuit  within  the 
walls,  is  two  miles  and  three  quarters — immediate- 
ly without,  it  is  probably  three  miles,  and  the  aver- 
age diameter  is  one  thousand  five  hundred  yards, 
or  very  nearly  six  sevenths  of  a  mile. 

A  complete  wall  of  massy  hewn  stone,  construct- 
ed with  elegance,  as  well  as  strength,  completely 
encircles  the  town,  and  is  furnished  with  strong 
massy  arches  and  gates,  and  with  deep  ditches. 

It  reminded  me,  much  more  than  any  thing  that 
I  have  seen,  either  in  England,  or  in  my  own  coun- 
try, of  the  strong  places  of  the  Netherlands,  partic- 
ularly of  Breda,  and  of  Bergen  op  Zoom. 

The  walls  of  Quebec  vary  much,  in  difierent 
parts,  in  height  and  thickness.  Every  where,  how- 
ever, they  are  high  enough  to  render  escalade  very 
difficult,  and  a  breach  almost  hopeless.  In  the 
strongest  parts,  next  to  the  plains  of  Abraham,  they 

*  Bouchette. 


f^TEREC. 


fOUtt   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND    QUEBEC.     293 


■  \: 


hichis  called 
of  the  works 
ere  is  no  bar- 
•r  other  natu- 
)on  this  side ; 
c,  and  here, 
inxious  care, 
la,  from  one 
fortification, 
iven  yards,''* 
it  within  the 
— immediate- 
ind  the  aver- 
indred  yards, 

le,  construct- 
completely 
1  with  strong 
ditches, 
ny  thing  that 
ly  own  coun- 
lands,  partic- 
>m. 
in  different 
where,  how- 
iscalade  very 
2ss.  In  the 
braham,  they 


appeared  to  me  forty  or  fifty  feet  thick,  and  equally 
high.  Even  the  lofty  precipices  of  naked  rock,  are 
surmounted  with  a  stone  wall,  and  with  cannon,  and 
the  highest  points  are  crowned  with  towers,  and  dis- 
tinct batteries.  In  general,  the  curtains  of  the  wall 
are  looped  for  musketry,  and  projecting  bastions 
present  their  artillery  towards  the  assailants,  in  every 
direction,  and,  of  course,  so  as  to  rake  the  ditches. 
A  military  man  at  Quebec  remarked  to  me,  that,  in 
storming  a  place,  they  preferred  attacking  the  bat- 
tery or  bastion,  rather  than  the  curtain,  because 
the  cross  fire  cuts  down  so  many  in  the  ditches. 
'  When  we  visited  the  plains  of  Abraham,  we  drove 
out  and  in  by  the  gate  St.  Louis,  where  the  wall 
appeared  to  be  fifty  feet  thick,  and  nearly  as  high ; 
this  was  the  judgment  we  formed,  without  eiitquiry 
— I  need  not  say,  without  measurement.*  A  deep 
ditch  succeeds,  and  then  there  is  an  exterior,  but 
lower  wall,  and  another  ditch,  both  of  which  must 
be  scaled,  before  the  main  wall  can  be  approached. 
A  storming  party  would  be  dreadfully  exposed, 
while  mounting  this  exterior  wall.  The  avenue  to 
the  gate  is  bounded,  on  both  sides,  by  a  high  wall, 
and  makes  several  turns,  in  zigzag.  At  every  turn, 
cannon  point  directly  at  the  approaches  ;  and  gen- 
erally, down  every  ditch,  and  in  every  possible  di- 
rection, where  the  walls  can  be  approached,  great 
guns  are  ready  to  cut  down  the  assailants. 

*  We  were  afterwards  informed  by  a  British,officer,  that  actual 
measurement  gave  this  result 


I 


y 


X  1 


)- 


f 


294    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

I  have  sevenal  times  remarkecl,  that  the  promon- 
tory of  rock,  which  constitutes  the  loftiest  point  of 
the  upper  town,  is  called  Cape  Diamond,  and  that, 
upon  this,  is  erected  the  famous  citadel  of  Quebec. 
This  is  not,  as  one  might  suppose,  a  building,  or 
castle,  covered  with  a  roof;  it  is  open  to  the  heav- 
ens, and  differs  from  the  rest  of  the  works,  only  in 
being  more  elevated,  stronger,  and  therefore  more 
commanding.* 

The  highest  part  of  the  citadel,  is  Brock's  bat- 
tery, which  is  a  mound,  artifically  rais^  !,  higher 
than  every  thing  else,  and  mounted  with  cannon, 
pointing  towards  the  plains  of  Abraham.  It  was 
named  after  General  Brock,  who  fell  at  Queens- 
town,  and  was  erected  during  the  late  war,  about 
<^he  ti'tjc  that  Montreal  was  threatened,  by  Gen- 
Crkis  Wilkinson  and  Hampton.  This  commands 
every  part  of  the  works  on  that  side,  and  is  intend- 
ed, I  presume,  besides  the  general  objects  of  de- 
fence, to  operate,  in  the  last  resort,  on  an  enemy 
who  may  scale  all  the  other  walls.  The  citadel  is 
forbidden  ground,  and,  by  rule,  no  person,  not  be- 
longing to  the  military,  or  the  supreme  government 
is  admitted  into  it. 

By  special  favor,  however,  we  enjoyed  this  grati- 
fication ;  the  sentry,  at  first,  refused  to  let  us  pass, 
although  under  patronage  which  commanded  his  res- 
pect ;  but  atlength,  with  much  reluctance,  he  yielded. 

*  As  I  saw  it  in  1819>  now  (in  1824,)  such  important  additions 
have  been  made  to  the  citadel,  that  I  know  not  whether  this  part 
ef  the  text  is  correct. 


^'  'i 


the  promoii* 
ftiest  point  of 
»nd,  and  that, 
;1  ofQuebec. 
building,  or 
to  the  heav- 
^orks,  only  in 
erefore  njore 

Brock's  bat- 
lis'  \f  higher 
ivith  cannon, 
lam.  It  was 
1  at  Queens- 
e  war,  about 
ed,  by  Gen- 
18  commands 
nd  is  intend- 
bjects  of  de- 
on  an  enemy 
^he  citadel  is 
rson,  not  be- 
:  government 

ed  this  grati- 
0  let  us  pass, 
nded  his  res- 
£3,  he  yielded. 

lortant  additions 
hetber  tUis  part 


TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  qtTEnEC.    29if 

This  course  of  conduct  is  usual  in  such  places, 
and  may  be  judicious  here,  as  preventing  numcous 
and  troublesome  visits,  but  it  appears  very  unneces- 
sary in  a  military  point  of  view,  for,  the  more  the 
strength  of  the  citadel  is  made  known,  the  less  dis- 
posed, I  am  persuaded,  will  any  enemy  be  to  aUack 
it.  Commodore  Bninbridge,  during  his  recent  vis- 
it here,  (I  understand,)  was  freely  shown  the  citadel 
and  every  part  of  the  fortifications;  an<)  I  heard  a 
British  officer  say,  that,  in  his  view,  it  was  quite  ri- 
diculous to  pursue  any  other  course,  and  to  pretend 
to  any  secrecy  about  the  thing.  Still,  however,  I 
suppose  the  officers  to  have  orders  from  their  supe- 
riors, not  to  introduce  persons  here,  for  the  day  af- 
ter we  had  been  in  the  citadel,  I  was  with  two  Brit- 
ish military  men,  of  considerable  professional  and 
official  influence,  and,  while  they  were  showing  me 
some  apartments,  contiguous  to  the  citadel,  1  hinted 
a  wish  to  see  it,  if  it  coujd  be  permitted,  but  was 
answered  politely^  although  decidedly^  that  it  could 
not.     I  did  not  tell  them  that  I  had  already  seenit.* 

Every  other  part  of  the  fortifications  may  be  free- 
ly visited  by  every  body,  but,  on  the  side  next  to 
the  St.  Charles  river,  the  sentry  refused  to  permit 
me  to  approach  the  embrasure ;  I  wished  to  see  how 
high  the  wall  was  at  that  place. 

*  I  understand,  that  now,  (1824,)  there  is  no  longer  aiy  seriout 
(lifTioulty  ia  bbtainia^  admission  to  $ee  Cape  Diamond. 


-J       ^ 


14 


'M: 

\%:. 


h  M 


I;, a 


I 


29G  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AM)  QUEBEC. 

From  the  citadel,*  the  view  of  the  river,  of  the 
town,  and  of  the  surrounding  country,  is,  of  course, 
extremely  grand  and  beautiful,  but,  in  this  instance, 
the  rapid  advance  of  evening,  rendered  the  distant 
objects  indistinct.  We  were,  however,  very  forci- 
bly struck  with  the  formidable  preparations,  which 
seem  on  all  sides,  to  render  an  attack  upon  the  place 
a  hopeless  enterprise.  Within  the  walls  are  nu- 
merous magazines,  furnished  with  every  implement 
and  preparation,  and  more  or  less  proof  against  the 
various  missiles  of  war.  Piles  of  cannon  balls  are 
every  where  to  be  seen,  and,  1  presume  there  are 
some  hundreds  of  heavy  cannon  mounted  on  the 
walls,  and  in  the  various  defences.  About  forty 
acres  of  ground,  within  Cape  Diamond,  are  reserved 
for  military  works.f 

Beyond  the  walls,  on  the  plains  of  Abraham,  are 
the  four  Martcllo  towers,  already  mentioned  ;  they 
are  solidly  constructec!  jf  stone,  and  appear  to  be 
forty  feet  high,  and,  at  the  base,  have  probably  a 
diameter  not  much  inferior ;  as  they  have  cannon 
on  their  tops,  they,  of  course,  sweep  the  whole 
plain,  and  effectually  command  it;  the  particular 
object  of  their  construction,  was  to  prevent  an  ene- 
my from  occupying  the  high  ground,  on  the  plains 

*  A  new  citadel  is  now  erecting  on  Cape  Diamond,  as  strong  as 
the  modern  improvements  in  fortification  can  make  it  (Private 
communication  from  Canada,  Jan.  25. 1824.) 

-^  Bouchette. 


^i^. 


A 


% 


qUEBEC. 

river,  of  the 
is,  of  course, 
this  instance, 
d  the  distant 
ir,  very  forci- 
ations,  which 
pon  the  place 
«ralls  are  nu- 
iry  implement 
)of  against  the 
uon  balls  are 
ime  there  are 
)unted  on  the 
About  forty 
I,  are  reserved 

Abraham,  are 
ntioned  ;  they 

appear  to  be 
ive  probably  a 

have  cannon 
the  whole 
the  particular 
revent  an  ene- 

on  the  plains 

mond,  as  strong  as 
take  it.    (Private 


ep 


TOUR  BETWEEN'  HARTFORD  AND  UUE.  £C.  297 

of  Abraham.  These  towers  are  very  strong,  on 
the  side  most  remote  from  the  town,  and  weaker  on 
the  side  next  to  it,  that  they  may  be  battered  from 
it,  should  an  enemy  obtain  possession  of  them. 

On  the  whole,  as  long  as  the  river  is  in  possession 
of  those  who  defend  the  town,  and  as  long  as  the 
latter  is  sufficiently  furnished  with  men,  and  other 
means  necessary  to  render  its  fortifications  efficient, 
there  appears  little  hope  of  taking  it  at  all,  and 
certainly  not  without  such  an  expense  of  blood,  as 
it  is  very  painful  to  contemplate. 

An  officer  of  the  garrison  informed  us,  that  it 
took  him  one  hour  and  a  half,  merely  to  visit  all  the 
sentinels  on  duty,  upon  the  various  stations  on  the 
walls;  this  appears  to  evince,  that  the  walls  cannot 
be  much  less  than  three  miles  in  circuit;  and  the 
same  military  man  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that  it 
would  require  at  least  ten  thousand  men  for  a  com- 
petent garrison. 

The  cold  is  so  intense  in  the  winter  nights,  par- 
ticularly on  Cape  Diamond,  that  the  sentinels  can- 
not stand  it  more  than  one  hour,*  and  are  relieved 
at  the  expiration  of  that  time. 

It  is  in  vain  to  attempt  to  conceal,  that  the  Cana- 
dians, and  the  government,  in  their  various  defen- 

*  And  even,  as  it  is  said,  at  much  shorter  intervals,  in  cases  of 
the  most  extreme  cold,  reaching  probably,  almost  or  quite,  to  the 
freezing  point  of  quicksilver. 

The  present  winter,  1S23-4,  the  public  prints  inform  us  that  the 
cold  has  reached  41  degrees  below  0  at  Quebec. 

26 


t-A^ 


I  \  I 


\b 


11 


.    I 


^ 


298  TOUR  r,ETvvEi:x  iiautford  and  Quebec  . 

ces,  (and  it  is  said  that  still  more  expensive  works 
are  in  contemplation,*)  have  reference  to  danger 
from  only  one  source. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  attempt  to  take  Quebec 
by  force,  will  never  again  be  made,  for,  if  it  has  al- 
ready cost  so  much  blood,  with  defences  compara- 
tively weak,  what  would  it  not  cost  now  ?f 


GEOLOGICAL  REMARKS. 


The  limited  opportunities  which  I  have  enjoyed, 
of  examining  the  geology  of  this  vicinity,  have  led, 
rather  to  isolated,  than  to  connected  observations. 
It  has  not  been  in  my  power  to  ascertain  the  bear- 
ing and  relations  of  these  facts,  and  this  I  regret  the 
more,  as  it  is  probable  that  interesting  results  would 
be  obtained,  by  a  more  extended  and  connected 
survey. 

*  We  are  recently  informed,  by  the  newspapers,  that  these  new 
works  are  going  on  yery  rapidly.    July,  UJ20. 

t  Going  into  a  book-store  in  Quebec,  I  observed  in  one  of  the 
Gazettes  of  the  city,  a  paragraph,  copied  from  a  recent  American 
paper,  to  this  efiect,  that,  if  it  should  be  ever  desirable  to  take 
Quebec,  it  could,  at  any  time,  be  easily  done,  in  two  months,  at 
the  point  of  Iht  bayonet.  Surely  such  a  remark  is  indecent,  with 
respect  to  a  people,  with  whom  we  are  now  in  amity ;  and,  to  any 
one  who  has  ever  seen  Quebec,  it  appears  superlatively  ridicu- 
lous, and  only  exposes  us  to  contempt ;  an  effort  to  take  the  moon 
al  the  point  of  the  bayonetf  would  be  almost  equally  rational. 


0 


tUEBIIC  . 

jnsive  works 
;e  to  danger 

take  Quebec 
*,  if  it  has  al- 
es compara- 

■?t 


ave  enjoyed, 
ty,  have  led, 
)bservations. 
lin  the  bear- 
3 1  regret  the 
esults  would 
connected 

i,  that  these  new 


jd  in  one  of  the 
ecent  American 
esirable  to  take 
two  months,  at 
indecent,  with 
ty ;  and,  to  any 
atively  ridicu- 
0  ttike  the  moon 
y  rational. 


% 


*. 


TOUfi    liKTWEEN    ilAIlTPOUlJ     AM)    (iLKHEf;.   299 

In  speaking  of  the  mouth  of  the  ClKuuliere  river, 
I  have  ah-eady  observed,  th;it  j^ray  wackc  forms  the 
clitls  on  the  eastern  side.  It  has  never  before  fallen 
to  my  lot,  to  observe  this  rock  on  so  great  a  scale. 
It  occurs  in  a  scirnlo^o  form,  at  the  falls  of  the 
Chaudiere,  and  coustitiilc--  a  principal  part  of  the 
barrier,  over  which  the  torrent  is  precipitated. 

On  the  road  from  Point  Levi  to  the  Chandiere 
river,  and  for  several  miles  before  we  arrive  at  the 
latter,  vast  ledges  of  common  gray  wacke,  rise  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  form  a  continued 
chain  of  rocks,  of  a  very  peculiar  physiognomy,  and 
very  diderent  from  those  rocks,  with  which  I  have 
been  most  familiar.  This  gray  wacke  is  of  a  most 
indubitable  character,  and  varies  from  coarse  to  fine 
grained;  in  the  coarsest  kind,  the  individual  por- 
tions are  not  larger  than  peas,  and  I  have  observed 
a  very  fine  grained  kind,  with  which  they  pave  some 
of  the  streets  in  Quebec  ;  its  grain  is  so  small,  as  to 
be  almost  imperceptible.  I  did  not  learn  whence 
it  is  brought. 

At  Point  Levi,  the  road  up  the  precipice,  from 
the  river's  edge,  is  cut  with  much  labour,  through 
cliffs  of  slate,  very  highly  inclined — much  contort- 
ed, and  containing  imbedded  limestone,  which  ap- 
peared to  me  like  that  of  the  transition  class;  but 
my  examination  was  very  hasty  and  slight. 

It  is  very  probable  that  this  forniaiion  extends 
under  the  bed  of  (  je  river,  and  substantially  ap- 
pears again  in   the  precipices  of  Quebec,  which  I 


If 


r:' 


Ifl 


<■;) 


J 


4  111 


II         I  ^  ifi. 


I, 


H    ( 


>:i 


300    TOCil  liETWEE.V    HAIlTrOKD    A^•I)    CtUELKC. 

tbund  an  opportunity  to  examine  with  some  atten- 
tion. 

The  name  of  Cape  Diamond,  is  derived  frofri 
the  fact,  that  what  the  common  people  every  where 
call  diamonds,  or,  in  other  words  rock  crystals  arc 
found  in  this  rock  and  at  its  foot. 

I  walked  around  these  precipices,  with  my  ham- 
mer in  my  hand,  and  observed  the  crystals  in  their 
places ;  they  occur  in  veins,  in  argiliite  or  slate, 
along  with  crystallized  carbonate  of  lime.  I  passed 
through  the  gate,  on  the  north  east,  and  de- 
scended the  oblique  road,  whieh  leads  to  the  lower 
town ;  this  street  is,  in  a  manner,  cut  out  of  the 
rocky  strata,  and  I  had  very  good  opportunities  to 
observe  them ;  I  continued  my  examination  around 
at  the  foot  of  the  precipices  beyond  Cape  Diamond, 
and  almost  to  the  plains  of  Abraham. 

The  fortifications  of  Quebec  stand  principally 
upon,  and  are  composed  chiefly  of  slate  rock  and 
of  the  fetid  limestone;  the  slate  is  highly  inclined, 
and  is  sometimes  remarkably  twisted  and  irregular 
in  its  arrangement*,  the  colour  is  dark — almost 
black,  and  it  is  often  fetid  when  struck.  This  is 
explained  by  its  association  with  compact  fetid 
limestone,  which  abounds  in  many  parts  of  these 
ledges,  and  is  replete  with  veins  of  white  or  slightly 
coloured  calcareous  spar — sometimes  fibrous  in  its 
structure  and  sometimes  distinctly  crystallized.  I 
observed  the  same  rocks  appoaring  in  the  upper 
town,  in  various  places,  and  esprcially  where  thfy 


some  attcn- 

Jerivcd  frotri 

every  where 

k  crystals  are 

vith  my  ham- 
y^stals  in  their 
llite  or  slate, 
me.  I  passed 
ast,  and  de- 
s  to  the  lower 
it  out  of  the 
portunities  to 
nation  around 
ape  Diamond, 

id  principally 
late  rock  and 
ghly  inclined, 
and  irregular 
dark — almost 
uck.  This  is 
ompact  fetid 
arts  of  these 
lite  or  slightly 
fibrous  in  its 
ystallizcd.  1 
in  the  upper 
where  ihoy 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  A^D   qUEBEC.  301 

were  cutting  a  drain  near  the  prison.  Dr.  Wright, 
the  Inspector  General  of  Hospitals  at  Quebec,  was 
kind  enough  to  show  me  a  collection,  which  he  is 
forming,  of  the  rocks  and  minerals  of  the  country, 
and  among  them  were  a  good  many  specimens  from 
Upper  Canada.  I  was  much  gratified  to  see  such  a 
beginning  in  Quebec,  and  from  the  zeal  and  intelli- 
gence of  Dr.  Wright  and  of  Dr.  Bigsby*  of  the 
same  department — may  we  not  hope  that  we  shall 
become  much  more  extensively  informed  than  now, 
as  to  the  mineralogy  and  geoloicy  of  the  Canadas  ? 

The  very  highly  inclined  position,  sometimes  al- 
most  vertical,  and   the  contorted  structure  of  the 
slate  of  Quebec — with  the  abundance  of  perfectly 
limpid    quartz    crystals,   occtisionally    an    inch   in 
length,    that  are  sprinkled   between   the  layers  of 
slate,  giving  it  often  an  elegant  appearance,  seem  to 
forbid  our  regardiiig  it   as   secondary,  notwithstand- 
ing  its  association  with    the  blnck,    compact,   fetid 
limestone,  and  its  being  itself  (occasioiinlly  at  least) 
fetid,  on   percussion.      I    am    told,  ti)at  both   the 
slato  and  the  limestone,  as  well  as  strata  of  wacke, 
(gray  wacke  ?)  are  subordinate  to  gneiss  mounlains, 
which  run  east  south-east,  and  rast  norlh-east  dipping 
southerly  at  a  verv  elevated  an2;le.     On  the  whole, 
nsthe  slate  is  the  prevailing  rock,  and  as  the  region 
on  the  other  side  of  tiie  St.  Lawrence,  is  decidedly 
a  transition   formation,  1   am  inclined  to  refer  the 

*  This  summer  acting  with  the  commijsiouers  of  boiinJaiies  c» 
the  great  lakes. 

26* 


I 


J  i : 


1  i 


»1 


1 


^''i 


30i    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    qUEBEC. 


Ml 


( 


ii  \ 


if    ) 


'i 


I 


1    * 


rock  of  Quebec  to  the  same  class.  The  crystals 
of  quartz  were  formerly  more  abundant,  und  proba- 
bly, more  beautiful,  than  at  present. 

1  found  numbers  however,  that  were  not  only 
transparent  and  beautiful,  but  crystallized  all  around. 
As  I  was  hammering  upon  a  rock,  to  which  1  had 
climbed,  so  far  up  one  of  the  precipices,  that  1  was 
above  the  chimnies  of  the  houses,  in  the  contiguous 
parts  of  the  lower  town,  a  man  came  running  out, 
and  with  a  French  accent,  and  much  vehement  ges- 
ture and  expostulaiion,  conjured  me  to  desist,  un- 
less I  meant  to  bury  him  and  his  house  in  ruins,  by 
causing  the  rocks  to  fall.  I  saw  no  danger,  as  the 
rocks  appeared  tolerably  firm,  but  of  course  desist- 
ed and  came  down.  Indeed  so  large  a  number  of 
the  houses  in  the  lower  town  are  built  against  the 
foot  of  the  precipice,  or  very  near  it,  that  the  rocks 
look  as  if  t})«>y  might  at  any  time  fall  and  crush 
them;  it  would  seem  as  if  they  must  of  course  do 
so,  should  any  of  them  give  way.  We  were  inform- 
ed that  a  great  mass  fell,  recently,  and  much  en- 
dangered many  houses,  but  happily  missed  them ; 
one  house  is  said  to  have  been  crushed  last  winter, 
but  I  did  not  hear  that  any  life  was  lost. 

I  examined  the  rocks  on  the  plains  of  Abraham, 
and  particularly  near  where  General  Wolfe  died, 
for  there  was  an  open  quarry  at  that  place ;  they 
were  slate  of  the  same  description  with  the  preci- 
pices at  Cape  Diamond,  and  I  observed  no  other 
on  the  plains,  and  none  in  the  rocks  of  the  town. 


QUEBEC* 

The  crystals 
t,  und  proba- 

re  not  only 
)d  all  around. 

which  1  had 
>s,  that  1  was 
e  contiguous 

running  out, 
jhement  ges- 

0  desist,  un- 
!  in  ruins,  by 
inger,  as  the 
;oursc  desist- 

1  number  of 
;  against  the 
hat  the  rocks 

11  and  crush 
of  course  do 
were  inform- 
much  en- 
nissed  them ; 
d  last  winter, 
t. 

of  Abraham, 
Wolfe   died, 

place ;  they 
th  the  preci- 
ed  no  other 
of  the  town. 


^  ( 


^ 


TOUR  BETWEE   HABTFOKD  AND  QUEBEC.  303 

but  slate  and  the  svyinestone ;  these  two  stones 
are  almost  exclusively  employed  in  building,  and 
the  walls  as  already  observed,  are  constructed  prin- 
cipally of  them. 


NOTES  ON  THE  MINERALOGY  OF  QUEBEC, 

Furnished  by  a  Scientific  Friend. 

The  promontory  on  which  stand  the  city  of  Que- 
bec, and  its  fortifications,  to  the  south-east,  is  a  near- 
ly perpendicular  escarpment,  varying  in  height 
from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  and  seventy  feet. 
Towards  the  N.  and  N.  W.  it  slopes  in  abrupt  de- 
clivities for  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  yards,  and  ter- 
minates in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  by  a  long  and 
somewhat  shivered  precipice,  about  eighty  feet  high. 

The  great  body  of  this  celebrated  rock  is  brown- 
ish, or  bluish  black  limestone,  without  lustre,  of  ve- 
ry conchoidal  fracture,  of  variable  hardness,  of  the 
sp.  gr.  2.5  or  2.6  and  effervescing  on  exposure  to 
acids. 

It  is  more  or  less  slaty  : — the  majority  of  its  lam- 
ina; are  a  foot  thick,  but  many  are  quits  shaly,  when  a 
degree  of  lustre  is  observable. 

The  strata  are  placed  at  an  high  angle  with  a 
S.  £.  dip;  frequently  they  are  vertical,  as  on  the 
face  of  some  parts  of  Cape  Diamond ;  and  occa- 
sionally the  dip  is  N.  W.  The  precipice  at  the 
west  end  of  Sault  au  Matelot  Street  in  the  lower 


«n| 


( 


i 


304    TOWR.    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBKC, 


:  fi 


h  \ 


^ 


}' 


I 


Pi  I  Hi/  ••  * 


town,  exhibits  some  singular  but  not  unprecedent- 
ed contortions  in  its  layers.  Two  contiguou  s 
strata,  (followed  in  a  less  degree  by  the  surrounding 
ones)  slowly  open,  and  in  the  space  of  eight  or  ten 
yards  rejoin  each  other  leaving  an  oval  interval  some 
yards  broad,  resembling  the  belly  of  a  vein, — and 
filled  with  the  black  limestone  of  the  locality,  so 
traversed  by  veins  of  bitter  spar  that  it  is  not  possi- 
ble to  trace  in  it  any  particular  structure.  Great 
disorder  exists  in  other  parts  of  this  neighbourhood. 
Three  hundred  yards  to  the  W.  the  strata  runs  S.  E. 
and  dip  vertically ;  and  on  advancing  still  westward 
are  fonnd  to  have  even  a  soutii-west  inclination. 

In  the  quarries  of  the  sui)ui  hj?  ot'  St.  John,  the 
direction  and  dip  of  the  rock  are  obscured  bv  an 
assemblage  of  what,  on  a  hasty  visit,  I  am  inclined 
to  cotnider  natural  cleav;it^es  of  j^reat  dimensions. 
These  cleavages  have  often  the  high  polish  and 
metallic  glaze  of  pottery — an  appearance  also  ob- 
served on  many  of  those  continuous  tiheets  of  rock, 
several  hundred  feet  square,  which  form  the  face 
of  the  precipice  overlooking  the  St.  Lawrence,  at 
the  iarther  end  of  Champlain  street,  'i'heir  colors 
are  black,  brown  and  red.  These  smooth  faces  arc 
not  uncommon  elsewhore,  and  are  also  frctjuently 
covered,  in  patchcj*,  with  the  black  limestone,  in 
doughy  c«atings<,  in  hi^h  relieved,  and  extended 
limbs,  as  if  (iicy  had  flowed,  lava-like,  in  a  semi- 
fluid state.  'J'his  is  quite  common  in  jrrav  warke, 
and  is  daily  seen  in  the  action  of  temporary  tor- 


unprecedent- 
>  cotTtiguou  s 
;  surrounding 

eight  or  ten 
interval  some 
a  vein, — and 

locality,    so 

is  not  possi- 
;ture.  Great 
igbbourhood. 
ita  runs  S.  E. 
still  westward 
clination. 
1.  Jolin,  the 
scured  by  an 
i  am  inclined 

dimensions. 
)  polish  and 
Mcc  also  ob- 
eets  of  rock, 
»rm  the  face 
(iwrence,  at 
'J'hcir  colors 
)tli  faces  arc 
o  frctjuently 
mestonc,  in 

id  extended 
in  a  semi- 
(fay  wafke, 

iporary  tor- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    UARTFOllD    AM)    QUERKC;.     305 

rents  on  sandy  cliffs  Large  masses  of  earth  fall 
into  the  ravine,  the  streamlet,  for  the  moment,  flows 
of  the  consistence  of  soft  paste,  overspreading  the 
neighboring  grounds,  and  on  the  outskirts  of  its  in- 
fluence, consolidates,  in  branch-like  prolongations, 
raised  above  the  surface   over  which  they  ramify. 

Conglomerates  and  gray  wacke  are  interleaved 
conformably  with  various  parts  of  the  rock  of  Que- 
bec ;  but  they  are  in  very  inconsiderable  proportion 
to  the  whole  mass.  They  ere  most  numerous  on 
the  northern  and  northwestern  side  of  the  promon> 
tory  :  and  at  the  place  near  Sauit  au  Matelot  Street, 
already  noticed  for  the  irregular  disposition  of  its 
strata,  the  entire  face  of  the  precipice  consists  of  a 
calcareous  conglomerate,  of  rounded  ash  colored 
nodules  of  very  various  sizes,  scattered  sparingly 
through  L  dark  cement — the  common  rock  proba- 
bly. It  extends  some  hundred  yards  westward, 
and  is  lost  in  the  body  of  the  hill. 

From  Palace  Gate,  west,  along  the  cliff  over- 
hanging St.  Roche,  layers  from  one  to  twelve  feet 
broad,  of  another  species  of  puddingstone,  are  inter- 
posed between  the  strata  of  black  limestone.  Two 
are  visible  near  Palace  Gate  and  one  in  Major 
D'Estimauville's  garden  in  the  suburb  of  St.  John. 
The  matrix  and  its  contents  are  in  equal  proportion, 
and  are  well  mixed.  The  nodules  are  seldom  so 
large  as  an  inch  square  ;  and  are  often  rounded. 
The  general  colour  is  greyish  brown.  A  disagree- 
able odour  is  perceptible  on  percussion.     Fragments 


4 


\  P 


:VI 


^    •*■ 


06  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


% 


••f     . 


of  chlorite,  and  grains  of  iron  pyrites  are  often  imbed- 
ded in  it. 

In  tljc  face  of  tiie  precipice  below,  and  to  the  cast 
of  Major  D'  Estiniauviile'S  2;  u-den,  there  is  a  largo 
oval  bed  of  this  piuldiiie;^itoiifi  contained  in  the  stra- 
tified rock ; — into  which  it  penetrates  in  numerous 
veins. 

In  St.  John's  suburbs,  from  this  garden,  about 
N.  E.  five  hundred  yards  (speaking  loosely)  a  kind  of 
puddingstone  similar  to  the  one  first  mentioned  ap- 
pears. It  is  twelve  feet  broad  ;  the  nodules  are  ve- 
ry small,  sparing  and  rounded. 

On  the  left  of  the  foot  of  the  first  descent  into  St. 
Roche's  from  St.  John^s  Gate,  opposite  to  Mr. 
Shepherd's  excellent  house,  layers  of  light  brown 
homogeneous  limestone,  of  small  breadth,  alternate 
several  times  with  the  black  species.  Their  tex- 
ture is  indistinctly  crystalline. 

The  gray  wacke  is  well  defined,  very  compact, 
and  makes  its  appearance  in  the  ditch  to  the  left  of 
St.  John's  gate.  By  reason  of  its  situation  it  is  on- 
ly visible  for  50  yards.  It  dips  S,  E.  at  a  high  an- 
gle, and  is  rcmaikable  in  being  at  one  part  12  feet 
broad  and  at  some  distance  from  thence  only  six. 
Another  stratum  of  gray  wacke,  I  am  informed,  is 
to  be  seen  on  Cape  Diamond,  in  an  excavation  which 
is  now  filled  with  water. 

The  accidental  minerals  of  this  limestone  arc  as 
follows.  There  are  the  white  rhomboidal  calcspar 
in  large  masses,  and  in  veins  of  large  size  :•— a  fibrous; 


"•''«Jv,-,*'»-*i»»' 


•tJEBEt;. 

Dften  imbed- 

d  to  the  cast 
re  is  a  largo 
1  in  the  stra- 
in numerous 

irden,  about 
?ly)  a  kind  of 
lentioned  ap- 
dules  are  ve- 

scent  into  St. 
osite  to  Mr. 
'  light  brown 
idth,  alternate 
1    Their  tex- 

ery  compact, 
to  the  left  of 
ation  it  is  on- 
t  a  high  on* 
c  part  12  feet 
\ce  only  six. 
informed,  is 
vation  which 

estone  are  as 
)idal  calcspar 
le:— afibrou«? 


TOUR    BETWEEN    UAUTB'OUD    ANu    Q,UEBEC.    307 

calcspar  in  mass,  but  without  the  lustre  of  satin  spar: 
the  cubic,   rhomboidal,  pyramidal,  and   pearl  spar 
crystals,   variously  modified,  and  lastly   numerous 
clusters  of  opaque  white  capillary  crystals,  two  thirds 
of  an  inch  long  at  most,  super-imposed  on  their  ends, 
and  radiating  from  a  point  in  an  extremely  beautiful 
manner.     They  effervesce  on  exposure   to   acids. 
All  these  spt* cies  occupy  drusy  cavities  and  the  sur- 
face of  the  strata ;  and  are  greatly  intermixed  with 
themselves  and  with  the  fine  rock  crystals  which  arc 
found  here  in  great  abundance.     Their  form  is  the 
six  sided   prism  with  the  ordinary  pyramidal   acu- 
minations.     They  are   often   much  flattened,   and 
are  seldom  equiangular.     The  prism  not  unusually 
disappears,  leaving  a  twelve   sided  crystal.    They 
are    not  often    imbedded,   but   usually    super-im- 
posed,   laterally  or  terminally.     The   crystals  are 
single   or  agglutinated   masses,  being  in  the  latter 
case  full  of  rents  and  of  a  brown   earthy  matter,  or 
in  rare  instances  containing  a  drop  of  pale  bitumin- 
ous oil.     They  are  either   colorless,  with  an    ex- 
tremely high  lustre,  or  of  a  smoke  brown  hue. 

Minute  seams  of  coal,  very  light,  jet  black,  shin- 
ing, have  been  met  with  in  the  cliff  of  the  Grand 
Battery. 

A  few  drachms  of  a  black  pitchy  matter  are  oc- 
casionally collected  from  the  cavities  of  the  rock — 
but  it  has  not  hitherto  been  examined. 

Some  workmen,  while  blasting  on  Cape  Dia- 
mond, laid  open  a  small  druse  of  calcspar   accom- 


•    J 

\i 

i     VI 

V  i|  i 

> 

1     1 

is 

1     1 

■V 

1     1 

i\ 

1  1 

''  I 


■.•'  ^-- 


I  i 


308  TOLU  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

panied  by  two  rudely  crystallized  masses  of  fluor 
spar.  I  have  not  applied  any  tests  ;  but  feel  as- 
sured they  are  fluor. 

Helitrope  is  found  loose  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties on  the  outside  of  St.  Louis'  Gate — I  have  not 
seen  it  in  place.     It  polishes  excellently. 

]  consider  the  Linncstone  of  Quebec  to  belong 
to  the  transition  class  of  rocks,  from  its  composi- 
tion and  structure,  from  its  inclination,  and  from  its 
being  conformable  to  the  vast  transition  formations, 
t^'ith  which  it  is  surrounded,  excepting  in  the  di- 
iVection  of  Beauport.  The  altenations  of  common 
slate — grey  wacke — quartz  rock  and  chlorite  slate, 
which  constitute  this  intermediate  order  recline 
on  the  north  upon  mountains  of  gneiss,  mica  slate 
and  various  forms  of  granite,  rocks  which  they 
again  meet  on  the  southern  frontiers  of  Lower 
Canada.  The  horizontal  lime  stone,  of  Beauport 
and  Montmorenci,  is  in  all  probability  a  projection 
or  tongue  of  secondary  rocks,  extended  from  the 
formations  of  Montreal  and  the  Ottawa  ;  with 
which  they  correspond  in  character,  and  with  which 
I  believe  them  to  be  connected  in  fact. 


DEATH  OF  GENERAL  MONTGOMERY. 

Every  American  on  visiting  Quebec,  of  course, 
inquires  for  the  place,  where  Montgomery  and  his 
associates  fell.  This  question  1  proposed  many 
times,  without  being  able  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  an- 


f- 


■  v-;?:: 


QU£U£C. 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    ^UCBP.C.     309 


U 


sses  of  fluor 
but   feel   as- 

irable  quanti- 
— I  have  not 
tly* 

5C  to  belong 
I  its  composi- 
I,  and  from  its 
»n  formations, 
ng  in  the  di- 
is  of  common 
chlorite  slate, 
order  recline 
5S,  mica  slate 
i  which  they 
srs  of  Lower 
of  Beauport 
a  projection 
ded  from  the 
)ttawa  ;  with 
id  with  which 
t. 


)MERY. 


c,  of  course, 
Kiery  and  his 
)posed  many 
itisfactorv  an- 


swer, but,  in  my  mineralogical  visit  to  the  lower 
town,  where  I  knew  that  the  event  occurred,  I  re- 
peated my  inquiries,  till  1  ascertained  the  street, 
which  as  described  by  historians,  passes  at  the  foot 
of  Gape  Diamond. 

Many  persons  in  Quebec,  know  little  or  nothing 
of  the  event,  and  many  more  feel  no  interest  in  the 
topic.  I  inquired  in  vain,  at  several  houses  and 
shops,  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  placi ,  till 
at  last,  1  was  so  happy  as  to  find  an  individual,  who 
appeared  to  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  whole 
transaction,  and  from  the  precision  ai»d  distinctness 
of  his  story,  and  the  clear  views  he  had  of  the 
ground,  and  of  the  event,  I  have  no  doubt  that  his 
information,  as  to  the  place,  was  correct.  He  was 
confident  that  he  shewed  me  the  exact  spot  where 
the  barrier  stood,  from  which  the  fatal  shot  was 
fired,  and  the  precise  place  where  Montgomery 
and  his  companions  were  cut  down.  It  is 
immediately  under  Cape  Diamond,  and  was,  at  that 
time,  as  it  is  now,  a  very  narrow  pass,  between  the 
foot  of  the  impending  precipice,  and  the  shore;  ves- 
sels then  were  moored  to  rings  fixed  in  the  rock, 
some  of  which  rings  still  remain,  although  wharves 
have  been  since  constructed  at  the  water^s  edge ; 
now  there  is  a  road  just  wide  enough  for  a  cart ;  it 
has  been  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  American 
camp  was  on  the  plains  of  Abraham.  Four  points 
of  attack  were  agreed  on — two /f»«/5  against  the 
walls  of  the  upper  town,  one  at  St.  John's  gate,  and 

27 


V    lis 

1      I: 


310  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBEt;. 

the  other  near  the  citadel,  while  two  real  assaults, 
were  to  be  directed  against  two  other  points,  both 
in  the  lower  town,  but  situated  on  opposite  sides. 

General  Arnold  led  a  party  fronri  the  plains  of 
Abraham,  around  by  the  river  Charles,  and  assault- 
ed the  lower  town  on  that  side.  In  the  mean  time, 
General  Montgomery  approached  under  Cape  Dia- 
mond. 

The  pass  at  the  foot  of  Cape  Diamond,  was 
probably,  then  much  narrower  and  more  difficult 
than  at  piesent.  The  attempt  was  made  at  five 
•'clock,  on  the  morning  of  December  31,  1775,  in 
the  midst  of  a  Canadian  winter,  and  of  a  violent 
snow-storm,  and  of  darkness.  The  path,  narrow 
and  difficult  at  best,  was  then  so  much  obstructed 
by  enormous  masses  of  ice,  piled  on  each  other,  as 
io  render  the  way  almost  impassable.*  Montgom- 
ery's party  were  therefore  obliged  to  proceed  in  a 
narrow  file,  till  they  reached  a  picket  block  house, 
which  formed  the  first  barrier.  The  general  assist- 
ed with  his  own  hands,  in  cutting  down  and  remov- 
ing the  pickets,  and  the  Canadian  guard,  stationed 
/or  its  defence,  having  thrown  away  their  armj, 
fled,  after  a  harmless  random  fire.  The  next  bar- 
rier was  much  more  formidable ;  it  was  a  small  bat- 
tery, whose  cannon  were  lo&ded  with  grape  shot, 
and  as  General  Montgomery,  with  Captains  Chees- 
man  and  Macpherson,  the  latter  of  whom  was  his 
aid,  and  others  of  the  bravest  of  his  party,  were 


Marshall. 


Q,UEBEt;. 

real  assaults, 
r  points,  both 
opposite  sides, 
the  plains  of 
s,  and  assault- 
be  mean  tinne, 
ler  Cape  Dia- 

3iamond,  was 

more  difficult 

made  at  five 

r31,  1775,  in 

of  a  violent 
path,  narrow 
ch  obstructed 
3ach  other,  as 
*  Montgom- 
I  proceed  in  a 
:  block  house, 
'eneral  assist- 
rn  and  remov- 
ird,  stationed 
y  their  armi, 
^he  next  bar- 
ls  a  small  bat- 
1  grape  shot, 
)tains  Chees- 
vhom  was  his 

party,  were 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  311 

pressing  forward  towards  this  barrier— a  discharge 
of  grape  shot  killed  the  general,  and  most  of  those 
near  his  person,  and  terminated  the  assault  on 
that  side  of  the  town.  It  is  said  that  this  second 
barrier  had  also  been  abandoned,  but  that  one  or 
two  persons  returning  to  it,  seized  a  slow  match, 
and  applied  it  to  the  gun,  when  the  advancing  party 
were  not  more  than  forty  yards  from  it.  This 
occurrence  has  been  sometimes  differently  related. 
Some  American  gentlemen  who  were  at  Quebec 
about  sixteen  years  since,  saw  a  man,  who  asserted 
that  he  was  the  person  who  touched  off  the  cannon, 
and  what  is  very  remarkable,  he  was  a  New-Eng- 
lander.  He  related,  that  the  barrier  was  abandon- 
ed, and  the  party  who  had  been  stationed  at  it 
were  in  full  flight ;  but  as  it  occurred  to  him,  that 
there  was  a  loaded  cannon,  he  turned,  and  dis- 
charged it  at  random,  and  then  ran.  This  anecdote 
I  had  from  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  conversed 
with  this  man. 

That  there  was  some  such  occurrence,  appears 
probable,  and  the  following  circumstances,  having 
a  similar  bearing,  were  related  to  me  by  the  person 
who  shewed  me  this  fatal  ground.  The  spot  may 
be  known  at  the  present  moment,  by  its  being 
somewhat  farther  up  the  river,  than  the  naval  depot, 
where  great  numbers  of  heavy  cannon  are  now 
lying.  The  battery  stood  on  the  first  gentle  decliv- 
ity, beyond  this  pile  of  cannon,  and  the  deaths  hap- 
pened on  the  level  ground,  about  forty  yards  still 


a  *i 


i 


4 


;c^''J<tJ 


^..^  -1 


312  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


r 


ii( 


farther  on.  My  informant  stated,  that  the  people 
in  the  block  house,  as  he  called  it,  loaded  their 
cannon  over  night,  and  retired  to  rest.  It  so  hap- 
pened, (and  it  was  perfectly  accidental,)  that  a 
captain  of  a  vessel  in  the  port,  lodged  in  the  block 
house  that  night.  He  was  an  intemperate  man,  half 
delirious  even  when  most  sober,  and  never  minded 
any  one,  or  was  much  listened  to  by  others.  Early 
on  the  fatal  morning,  before  light,  he  exclaimed, 

all  of  a  sudden— "they  are  coming,  I  s rthey 

are  coming !"  no  one  regarded  him,  but  he  got  the 
iron  rods,  which  they  used  to  touch  off  the  cannon, 
heated  them,  and  fired  the  pieces. 

Immediately,  rockets  were  seen  to  fly  into  the 
air,  which  were  si^^nals  to  the  party  of  Arnold,  that 
all  was  lost.  When  light  returned,  General  Mont- 
gomery, his  aids,  and  many  others,  in  the  whole 
twenty-seven,  (as  he  stated,)  were  found  either 
dead,  or  grievously  wounded. 

Thus,  ]  have  had  the  melancholy  satisfaction  of 
seeing  both  where  Wolfe  and  Montgomery  fell. 
Had  the  latter  succeeded,  his  enterprise  would  have 
been  regarded  as  more  gallant  than  even  that  of 
Wolfe. 

Probably  the  situation  of  the  defences  was  very 
different  then  from  what  it  is  now;  at  present, 
such  an  attempt  would  be  perfectly  desperate,  and 
could  deserve  no  name  but  rashness. 

The  memory  of  the  transaction  appears,  in  a 
great  measure,  to  have  passed  by,  at  Quebec,  and 


QUEBEC. 

t  the  people 
loaded  their 

It  so  hap- 
ttal,)  that  a 
in  the  block 
ite  man,  half 
ever  minded 
lers.     Early 

exclaimed, 

s r  they 

it  he  got  the 
the  cannon, 

fly  into  the 
Arnold,  that 
ineral  Mont- 
n  the  whole 
bund  either 

itisfaction  of 

jomery  fell. 

would  have 

ven  that  of 

es  was  very 
at  present, 
sperate,  and 

>pears,  in  a 
Quebec,  and 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  QUEBEC.  313 

I  can  even  conceive  that,  in  twenty  years  more,  it 
may  be  difficult  to  have  the  place  accurately  desig- 
nated. It  would  be  easy  now,  with  permission  of 
the  government,  to  have  an  inscription,  cut  upon 
the  neighboring  precipice  of  rock,  which  is  not  six 
feet  from  the  place,  and,  I  presume,  were  the  re- 
quest properly  preferred,  no  objection  would  be 
made. 

"  All  enmity  to  Montgomery  expired  with  his 
life,  and  the  respect  to  his  private  character  pre- 
vailed over  all  other  considerations  5  his  dead  body 
received  every  possible  mark  of  distinction  from 
the  victors,  and  was  interred  in  Quebec,  with  all 

the  military  honors  due  to  a  brave  soldier." 

"  The  most  powerful  speakers  in  the  British  Par- 
liament, displayed  their  eloquence  in  praising  his 
virtues,  and  lamenting  his  fate.  A  great  orator, 
and  veteran  fellow-soldier  of  his,  in  the  late  war, 
shed  abundance  of  tears,  whilst  he  expatiated  on 
their  past  friendship  and  participation  of  service  in 
that  season  of  enterprise  and  glory.  Even  the  min- 
ister extolled  his  virtues."* 

During  our  visit  to  the  citadel,  the  place  of  his 
interment  was  pointed  out  to  us.  His  bones  (as  is 
well  known,)  were  recently  transferred  to  New- 
York,  more  than  forty  years  after  their  original 
interment,  and  now  lie  buried,  contiguous  to  the 
monument,  erected  by  Congress,  in  front  of  St. 
Paul's  Church. 

*  Annual  Register,  for  1776. 

07* 


n 


♦  -— -. 


t    t 


•« 


'B" 


•> 


314  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


H 


v\ 


GENERAL  ARNOLD'S  PARTY. 

In  the  existing  accounts  of  the  attack  made  by 
General  Arnold's  division,  it  is  not  easy  for  a  per- 
son who  is  unacquainted  with  Quebec,  to  under- 
stand, precisely,  where  the  scene  of  operations 
lies,  nor  how  there  was  to  be  a  co-operation  with 
General  Montgomery.  Perhaps  the  following  re- 
marks may  have  a  tendency  to  render  this  scene 
intelligible,  and  especially  to  those  who  may  seek 
for  information  on  the  spot. 

General  Arnold's  party  entered  through  the  su- 
burb of  St.  Roch,  which  lies  oo  the  river  St.  Charles, 
north-west  of  Quebec,  without  the  walls,  and  is  an 
appendage  of  the  lower  town.  Having  been  obli- 
ged to  abandon  the  only  cannon  which  they  had, 
they  passed,  through  the  street  St.  Roch,  which 
leads  in  a  south-west  direction,  towards  the  wall, 
and  then  turning  to  the  left,  by  (he  Intendant's 
Palace,  proceeded  on,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence, 
parallel  to  the  city  wall,  and  at  a  small  distance 
from  it.  Here  it  was  that,  during  a  march  of  near- 
ly half  a  mile,  the  party,  with  very  little  injury, 
sustained  the  fire  on  their  right  flank,  from  the 
walls.  Without  regarding  this  heavy  fire,  they 
pressed  on  towards  the  enemy's  first  barrier,  which 
was  in  the  street  called  Sault  des  Matelots.*  This 
street  commences  in  the  lower  town,  on  the  St. 

*  Sec  Colonel  BouchcUe>  plan  of  Qurbec,  \a  his  topographical 
map  of  Lower  Canada, 


QUEBEC. 
Y. 

ick  made  by 
isy  for  a  per- 
tc,  to  under- 
>f  operations 
peration  with 
following  re- 
[er  this  scene 
rho  may  seek 

rough  the  su- 
2r  St.  Charles, 
ails,  and  is  an 
ing  been  obli- 
ich  they  had, 
Roch,  which 
ards  the  wall, 
Intendant's 
t.  Lawrence, 
mall  distance 
larch  of  near- 
little  injury, 
nk,  from  the 
vy  fire,  they 
jarrier,  which 
telots.*  This 
n,  on  the  St. 

his  topogrr>|)hi»  al 


I 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    <%UEPEC.  315 

Lawrence,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  passage 
up  Mountain  street ;  passing  down  that  street,  and 
turning  to  the  left  or  north,  we  come  to  that  of  the 
Matelots.^  This  street  runs  in  a  straight  direction 
for  some  way,  aiid  then  turns  suddenly,  by  a  very 
narrow  path,  only  twelve  feet  wide,  and  cut  out  of 
the  rock,  around  that  angle  of  the  precipice,  and 
of  the  grand  battery,  which  looks  down  the  bay  of 
Quebec;  it  then  proceeds  west  without  turning. 
At  the  time  of  the  attack,  this  passage,  around  the 
foot  of  the  precipice,  was  exceedingly  narrow,  and 
much  obstructed  by  cakes  of  ice.  Coming  from 
the  suburb  of  St.  Roch,  tlie  first  barrier  occurred, 
before  arriving  at  the  angle  of  the  street,  and  of  the 
precipice  ;  the  second  after  passing  it.  Arnold  be- 
ing severely  wounded,  in  the  approach  to  the  first 
barrier,  it  was  stormed  and  carried,  by  Captain 
Morgan  of  the  Virginia  riflemen,  although  it  was 
defended  by  two  twelve  pounders,  loaded  with 
grape  shot;  one  of  these  pieces  was  discharged, 
but  killed  only  a  single  man,  and  before  the  second 
was  fired,  the  barrier  was  passed  by  scaling  ladders, 
and  its  defenders  fled.  It  was  still  dark  — a  violent 
snow  storm  prevailed,  and  Morgan  and  the  other 
officers,  being  ignorant  of  the  streets  and  their  de- 
fences, did  not  attempt  the  other  barrier  till  the 
day  dawned.     They  then  turned  the  angle  of  the 

♦  Or  sailors— I  know  not  whether  the  name  was  derived  from 
the  circumstance,  that  a  sailor  once  fell  over  the  precipice  into 
this  place,  "  without  loss  of  life,  or  even  serious  injury." 

Private  Commvniration-—  1 B24. 


i 


316   TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 


'*  1,1 


U 


street,  which  brought  them  in  front  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  of  the  next  barrier,  which  last  was  en- 
tirely invisible  till  they  had  made  this  turn,  when 
they  were  instantly  exposed  to  a  tremendous  fire 
of  musketry  from  the  barrier,  and  from  he  houses 
on  both  sides  of  the  street ;  a  few  of  the  bravest 
mounted  the  barrier  with  ladders,  but  saw  on  the 
other  side,  double  rows  of  soldiers,  with  their  guns 
fixed  on  the  ground,  and  presenting  nothing  but 
points  of  bayonets  to  receive  them,  should  they  leap 
to  the  ground.  Their  retreat  was  in  the  meantime 
cut  off,  by  a  party  of  two  hundred  men,  who,  with 
several  field  pieces,  issued  from  the  palace  gate,  in 
their  rear,  and  thus  they  were  completely  surround- 
ed—the unconquered  barrier  was  in  front — the  city 
wall  and  precipice  on  one  side,  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  St.  Charles  on  the  other. 

It  was  a  most  darin;;  attack. 

I  passed  several  times  through  the  street  of  the 
Matelots,  and  wonder  that  any  of  the  party  should 
have  escaped  death. 

We  can  now  understand  how  the  party  of  Mont- 
gomery and  that  of  Arnold  would,  if  successful,  have 
co-operated.  At  the  time  of  their  repulse,  they 
were  making  directly  towards  one  another,  and, 
but  for  that  event,  would  have  met  in  Mountain 
street,  and  probably  have  attempted  the  Prescot 
gate  in  concert ;  or  possibly,  being  in  possession  of 
the  lower  town,  they  might  have  assailed  the  palace 
gate  which  Arnold  had  passed,  after  leaving  the 


QUEBEC. 

ftheSt.  Law- 
li  last  was  en- 
^is  turn,  when 
emendous  fire 
om  he  houses 
[>f  the  bravest 
»ut  saw  on  the 
rith  their  guns 
g  nothing  but 
lould  they  leap 
the  meantime 
len,  who,  with 
palace  gate,  in 
itely  surround- 
front — the  city 
I  the  St.  Law- 


c  street  of  the 
e  party  should 

party  of  Mont- 
iccessful,  have 

repulse,  they 

another,  and, 
in  Mountain 

1  the  Prescot 
)  possession  of 

led  the  palace 
ir  leaving  the 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  317 

suburb  of  St.  Roch.  At  present,  either  of  these 
attempts  would  appear  preposterous,  and  it  would 
seem  that  they  could  scarcely  have  proved  success- 
ful then,  unless  the  enemy  had  been  taken  by  sur- 
prise. Judge  Marshall's  interesting  account*  of 
this  assault  will  be  perfectly  intelligible,  if  it 
be  remembered  that  the  scenes  of  both  tra- 
gedies are  in  the  lower  town,  and  the  catastro- 
phies  of  both  )n  front  of  the  precipice,  bordering 
on  the  St  Lawrence.  Montgomery  fell  on  the  ex- 
treme left,  as  represented  in  the  vignette — the  re- 
pulse of  Arnold^s  division  was  on  the  extreme  right, 
and  none  of  either  party  entered  the  upper  town, 
till  Arnold's  troops,  having  fought  for  three  hours, 
TMally  surrendered,  after  they  were  surrounded, 
11  hope  of  escape  was  at  an  end.  Rare- 
\j  lias  more  personal  bravery  been  displayed,  than 
in  this  transaction. 


H 


CASTLE  OF  ST.  LOUIS  AND  THE  LATE  DUKE  0¥ 

RICHMOND. 

The  situation,  and  dimensions  of  this  building, 
have  been  already  mentioned,  (page  212.)  On  its 
site,  and  on  the  contiguous  ground,  the  French 
had  a  fortress,  called  St.  Louis;  it  covered  four 
acres,  and  formed  nearly  a  parallelogram.     The 

*  Life  of  Washiugton,  vol.  ii.  p.  333. 


^ 


hi 


) 


1)  ^ 


<^ 


■ 


318    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC. 

present  castle  is  a  part  of  the  curtain,  connecting 
two  of  the  bastions  of  the  fort,  or,  at  least,  it  is  in 
the  same  place,  for,  I  am  not  certain  that  it  has  not 
been  rebuilt,  since  the  destruction  of  the  ancient 
fortress. 

This  castle  had  been  suffered  to  go  to  decay,  but, 
in  1808,  seven  thousand  pounds  were  voted  for  its 
repair  and  embellishment,  and  an  additional  sum  at 
a  subsequent  period.  Sir  James  Graig  first  occu- 
pied it,  after  this  resuscitation. 

The  entire  establishment  forms  a  square,  of  which 
the  present  castle  is  the  front,  and  the  other  parts 
are  occupied  by  public  offices,  ball  rooms,  &c.  and 
there  are  stables,  a  guard-house,  and  a  riding  room, 
besides  extensive  gardens.'^ 

Without  introduction,  we  went  to  the  castle  of  St. 
Louis,  and,  as  strangers,  preferred  our  request  to 
see  the  interior.  The  sentinel,  and  the  servants, 
gave  us  a  ready  admission.  We  were  civilly  con- 
ducted through  its  various  apartments.  They  arc 
numerous,  but  generally  plain ;  some  are  large  and 
handsome,  but  they  are  inferior,  in  elegance,  to  the 
rooms  in  many  private  houses.  The  furniture,  with 
some  exceptions,  is  far  from  being  splendid.  Some 
articles  are  rich,  but  many  are  hardly  worthy  of  the 
distinguished  place  which  they  occupy. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  the  place,  is  a  famous 
round  table,  or  rather  half  of  a  round  table,  with  a 
circular  place  cut  in  the  middle.     This,  it  seems,  is 

*  Bouehette. 


-f 


>    <^UEBEC. 

in,  connecting 
t  least,  it  is  in 
that  it  has  not 
)r  the  ancient 

►  to  decay,  but, 
re  voted  for  its 
ditional  sum  at 
•aig  first  occu- 

|uare,  of  which 
he  other  parts 
■ooms,  &c.  and 
a  riding  room, 

he  castle  of  St. 
)ur  request  to 
the  servants, 
re  civilly  con- 
its.  They  are 
I  are  large  and 
legance,  to  the 
furniture,  with 
lendid.  Some 
)'  worthy  of  the 

e,  is  a  famous 
d  table,  with  a 
tiis,  it  seems,  h 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    ClUEBEC.    319 

occupied  by  the  host,  when  he  drinks  wine  with 
his  friends,  who  arc  arranged  around  himt  That 
there  may  be  no  impediment  to  conviviality,  not 
even  the  usual  trouble  of  circulating  the  bottle, 
there  is  an  ingenious  machine  of  brass,  shaped  a 
little  like  a  sextant,  which  can,  at  pleasnre,  be  at- 
tached to  the  table,  or  removed ;  the  centre  em- 
braces a  pivot,  on  which  it  moves,  and  the  periphery 
of  the  circle,  sustains?  the  bottK^;  the  mflchine  re- 
volves in  the  plane  of  a  horizontal  circle,  in  other 
words,  on  the  circular  table  ;  this  is  effected  merely 
by  touching  a  spring ;  the  contrivance  is  certainly 
as  important  as  it  is  original. 

1  am  not  certain,  however,  to  whom  the  honor  of 
the  invention  belongs,  for  we  were  assured  in  the 
castle,  that  the  furniture  descends,  not  as  public, 
but  as  private  property,  and  is  paid  for  by  each 
successive  governor.  This,  (if  correctly  stated,) 
does  not  correspond  with  the  usual  munificence  and 
dignity  of  the  British  government. 

The  duke  of  Richmond,  the  late  Governor-Gene- 
ral of  the  Canadas,  is  stated  not  to  have  been  rich ; 
indeed,  in  Canada,  the  remark  is  made  on  all  hands, 
that  he  was  poor.  Still,  we  were  repeatedly  assur- 
ed, that  the  duke^s  plate,  which  was  lately  sent 
back  to  England,  was  insured  at  forty  thousand 
pounds,  a  fortune  in  itself,  for  a  private  man. 

We  were  introduced  into  the  duke's  private  study 

and  library  ;  the  latter  was  not  extensive,  although 

he  books  were  good  ;  we  saw  also  his  bed  room 


I 


I 


1  i 

c 


h 


*l 


\l' 


k  «/ 


330     TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   ANA    ^UEBEO. 

and  bed,  and,  in  short,  all  the  apartments  of  the 
family. 

We  asked  for  some  personal  relic  of  the  duke, 
and  they  presented  to  us  a  thermometrical  register, 
kept  by  him,  during  the  first  seven  months  of  the 
present  year,  and  the  first  half  of  August,  ending 
with  the  time,  (I  presume,)  when  he  set  forward  on 
the  journey,  during  which  he  died.  The  register 
is  said  to  be  in  his  own  hand  writing.  As  it  is  not 
often  that  we  obtain  a  document  respecting  Cana- 
dian temperature,  and,  as  this  is  interesting,  on  ac- 
count of  its  origin,  1  will  present  an  abstract  of  it. 
in  the  form  of  results. 


Average    tempera- 


A.  D. 
1819. 

Jan.  17*> 
Feb.  25 
March  25 
April  43 
May  56 
June  66 
July  75 
Aug. 
(first  15 
days)    78 


ture  at 
noon. 

ab.  0 

(( 

t( 

(( 
(( 


Coldest  day 
at  noon. 

Jan.  14  6°bel.O 
Feb.  24  13  ab. 
March  6  2" 
April  8  32 
May  25  36 
June  1  52 
July  28  65 


72 


Hottest  day 
at  noon. 

Jan.  23   4l°ab.O 

Feb.  9     42    " 

March  21  37  " 

April  29  64    " 

May  4     72 

June  6    90 

July  23   84 


t; 


Aug.  8 

The  average  of  S^'".*®"'    )         ,^    . 
ih^ihrZ        < spring,     >  months,  18 


(( 


Aug.  7 
and  10    86 

22°above  0 
55       " 
summer,  J  ^73       " 

In  January,  the  thermometer,  at  noon,  on  the  5th, 
8th ,  and  29th,  was  4«  below  0. 

1  have  thrown  away  fractions  of  a  degree. 

The  thermometers,  with  which  the  observations 
were  made,  still  hung  in  the  room. 


.^.w 


9    ^UBBEG. 

tments  of  the 

:  of  the  duke, 
trical  register, 
months  of  the 
mgust,  ending 
set  forward  on 
The  register 
r.  As  it  is  not 
ipecting  Cana- 
resting,  on  ac- 
abstract  of  it. 


Hottest  day 
at  nooD. 

n.  23  4l°ab.O 

5b.  9     42    " 

arch  21  37  " 

)ril  29  64    " 

ly  4     72 

ne  6    90 

y  23   84 


(( 


18 


10    86 

22°above  0 
55       " 
73       " 

on,  on  the  5th, 

degree. 

e  observations 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  ^CEBEC.    321 

It  is  well  known  that  the  duke  died  of  hydropho- 
bia ;  and,  it  seems  impossible  to  obtain  in  Canada, 
nay,  even  in  Quebec,  and  in  the  palace  itself,  a  cor- 
rect account  of  the  circumstances  that  attended  the 
calamity.  As  the  subject,  being  of  very  recent  oc- 
currence, has  been  much  spoken  of  in  our  presence, 
and  in  all  circles,  I  trust  it  will  not  be  indelicate 
with  respect  to  the  friends  of  the  deceased,  or  to 
the  people  recently  under  his  gove  u'  .^nt,  if  I  pro- 
ceed to  repeat  some  of  the  statements  which  we 
have  heard. 

The  person  who  shewed  us  the  castb,  and  who, 
as  we  were  informed,  belonged  to  the  duke's  house- 
hold, gave  us  the  following  account.  It  seems  that 
the  duke  had  a  little  dog,  to  which  he  was  immode- 
rately attached  ;  the  dog's  name  was  Blucher,  and 
Blucher,  we  were  told,  was  carressed  with  such 
fondness,  that  he  slept  with  his  masicr,  and  was 
affectionately  addressed,  by  the  appellation  of"  my 
dear  Blucher." 

This  idolized  animal  was  bitten  in  the  neck  by 
another  dog,  afterwards  ascertained  to  be  mad— 
the  rencounter  took  place  in  the  court-yard  of  the 
palace,  and  the  duke,  in  whose  presence  it  occur- 
red, full  of  compassion  for  his  poor  dog,  caught  him 
up  in  his  arms,  and  applied  his  own  lips  to  the  part 
bitten;  others,  as  well  as  this  man,  have  informed 
us,  that  it  was  thus  the  duke  imbibed  the  poison, 
some  say  through  a  cut  in  his  lip,  made  by  his  ra- 
zor, or  through  an  accidental  crack.     The  duke 

28 


If  i 


■*Mf^' 


'A 


\  v^ 


*^.  i 


S22    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFO&D  AND  QUEBEC. 

continued  to  sleep  with  the  dog,|which  had  not  then, 
however,  exhibited  signs  of  madness. 

There  are  other  persons,  and,  among  them,  some 
high!)'  respectable  men,  attached  to  the  army,  who 
deny  the  above,  and  say  that  the  duke  was  bitten 
by  a  rabid  fox,  on  board  the  steam-boat;  the  fox 
and  dog,  it  is  said,  were  quarrelling,  and  the  duke 
interfered,  to  part  them.  Others  assert,  that  the 
duke  put  his  hand  into  the  cage,  where  the  fox  was 
confined ;  and  all  who  impute  the  event  to  the  fox, 
declare  that  the  hurt,  which  was  on  a  tinger,  was 
so  extremely  slight,  as  not  to  be  noticed  at  the  time, 
■or  thought  of  afterwards,  till  the  hydrophobia  came 
•n. 

At  the  mansion  house  in  Montreal,  where  the 
duke  always  lodged,  when  in  that  city,  we  were 
assured  by  a  respectable  person  in  the  house,  that 
the  duke  certainly  got  his  poison  from  his  own  dog; 
that  the  story  was  told  him  by  the  servants  of  the 
duke,  when  they  returned  with  the  dead  body ;  and, 
what  is  more,  that  he  saw  the  letter  which  the  duke 
wrote  to  his  own  daughter,  the  lady  Mary,  after  his 
symptoms  had  manifested  themselves,  and  when  he 
was  in  immediate  expectation  of  death.  In  this 
letter,  the  duke  reminded  his  daughter  of  the  inci- 
dent which  was  related  to  us  at  the  palace.  Which 
ever  story  is  true,  it  would  appear  that  the  duke 
came  by  his  death  in  consequence  of  his  attach- 


had  not  then, 

ig  them,  some 
he  army,  who 
:e  was  bitten 
oat ;  the  fox 
md  the  duke 
Bert,  that  the 
e  the  fox  was 
nt  to  the  fox, 
81  finger,  was 
d  at  the  time, 
^phobia  came 

1,  where  the 
ity,  we  were 
e  house,  that 
his  own  dog; 
rvants  of  the 
Ibody;  and, 
lich  th«  duke 
ary,  after  his 
and  when  he 
ith.  In  this 
r  of  the  inci- 
ice.  Which 
lat  the  duke 
his  attach- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  323 

ment  to  his  dog,  and,  surely  never  was  a  valuable 
life  more  unhappily  sacrificed.* 

The  duke  was  up  the  country,  near  the  Ottawa 
river,  when  the  fatal  symptoms  appeared,  but  he 
persevered  in  his  expedition — travelled  thirty  miles 
on  foot,  the  day  before  he  died — concealed  his  com- 
plaint, and  opposed  it  as  long  as  possible — wrote 
his  final  farewell  to  the  lady  Mary,  and  the  other 
children,  in  a  long  letter,  which  contained  particu- 
lar directions  as  to  the  disposition  of  the  family — 
and  met  death,  we  must  say,  at  least,  like  a  soldier, 
for  a  soldier  he  had  been  the  greater  part  of  his 
life. 

His  complaint  manifested  itself,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, by  an  uneasiness  at  being  upon  the  water, 
in  the  tour  which  he  was  taking  into  the  interior, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  land  him.  A  glass  of  wine, 
presented  to  him,  produced  his  spasms,  although  it  is 
saidi  that,  by  covering  his  eyes  with  one  hand,  and 
holding  the  glass  with  the  other,  he  succeeded  in 
swallowing  the  wine;  but  afterwardsi  he  could 
bear  no  liquids,  and  even  the  lather  used  in  shaving, 
distressed  him. 

In  the  intervals  of  his  spasms,  he  was  wonderful- 
ly cool  and  collected — gave  every  necessary  order 

*  I  have  never  had  it  in  my  power  to  iee  the  official  accounts 
of  the  duke*8  death,  as  published  in  England.  I  am  told  thef  dif- 
fer in  aome  measure,  from  the  preceding  statements,  but  I  cannot 
tell  in  what  particulars.  AH  I  can  sat,  is,  that  I  give  the  reports 
as  I  heard  them. 


4 


I 

! 

1 

I: 


^^wfc.'  «<»"iiwt»»»».«^*  w*^,  .>iii%  '^ 


,^— ^,.*-. 


-4!S««^ 


r:  i 


rill 


^ 


^: 


324  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

to  his  servants,  and  to  the  officers  of  his  suite — op- 
posed the  sending  for  a  physician,  from  Montreal, 
because,  he  said,  the  distance  from  it  to  Richmond, 
where  he  died,  being  eighty  miles,  he  should  be  a 
dead  man,  before  the  physician  could  arrive,  and 
seemed  to  contemplate  the  dreadful  fate  before  him, 
with  the  heroism^  at  least,  of  a  martyr. 

In  his  turns  of  delirium,  instead  of  barking  and 
raving,  as  such  patients  are  said  usually  to  do,  he 
employed  himself  in  arranging  his  imaginary  troops, 
forming  a  line  of  battle,  (for  he  had  been  present  at 
many  battles,  and,  last  of  all,  at  Waterloo,*  itself,) 
and  gave  particular  commands  to  a  captain  in  the 
navy,  who  was  not  present,  but  whom  he  called  by 
name,  foj/f re— and  the  command  was  often,  and  ve- 
hemently repeated.  In  a  soliloquy,  overheard  but 
a  few  minutes  before  his  death,  he  said,  "  Charles 
Lenox,  duke  of  Richmond! — die  like  a  man! — 
Shall  it  be  said,  that  Richmond  wab  afraid  to  meet 
death — no,  never !" 

I  know  not  what  were  his  grace's  views  on  top- 
ics, more  important  at  such  a  crisis,  than  what  our 
fellow  men  will  think  of  us ;  but,  there  was  a  degree 
of  grandeur,  of  the  heroic  kind,  in  finding  a  military 
nobleman,  cool  and  forecasting,  in  contemplation  of 
one  of  the  most  awful  of  all  deaths,  and,  even  in  his 

*  I  was  informed  by  a  British  officer,  that  the  duke  was  not  ac- 
tually itt  the  bloody  field,  but  somewhere  in  the  immediate  vicio- 
ity.  » 


m^' 


-K. 


'^L 


Sk 


QUEBEC. 

lis  suite — op- 
)m  Montreal, 
:o  Richmond, 
Q  should  be  a 
d  arrive,  and 
;e  before  him, 
r. 

■  barking  and 
illy  to  do,  he 
^i nary  troops, 
ien  present  at 
irloo,*  itself,) 
:aptain  in  the 
1  he  called  by 
often,  and  ve- 
)verheard  but 
aid,  "  Charles 
ke  a  man! — 
fraid  to  meet 


i^iews  on  top- 
han  what  our 
was  a  degree 
ing  a  military 
templation  of 
d,  even  in  his 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND   qiJEnEC.    325 

moments  of  delirium,  like  king  Lear,  raving  in  a 
style  of  sublimity. 

We  were  informed,  that,  even  in  death,  he  did 
not  forget  Blucho.r,  but  ordered  that  he  should  be 
caged,  and  the  event  awaited.  The  dog  was  carried 
away  with  the  fnmily,  when  they  sailed  for  Eng- 
land, although  he  had  previously  begun  to  snap  and 
fly  at  people. 

The  duke  appears  to  be  remembered  with  af- 
fection ;  he  was  regarded  as  a  very  warm  friend 
to  Canada,  and  all  here,  believe  that  he  had  its  in- 
terests much  at  heart,  and  was  actively  engaged  in 
promoting  them. 

His  family,  consisting  principally  of  daughters, 
young  and  unmarried,  with  very  slender  resources, 
and  in  a  foreign  land,  received  the  appaling  news  at 
the  castle  of  St.  Louis,  and  soon  the  sad  tidings 
were  followed  by  the  breathless  body. 

One  daughter  is  married  to  Sir  Peregrine  Mait- 
land,  Governor  of  Upper  Canada,  and  the  lady  Ma- 
ry, the  eldest  of  the  remaining  daughters,  is  spoken 
of  (although  without  any  intended  disparagement  to 
the  other  children,)  in  the  highest  terms.  We  saw 
fire  screens,  prettily  inscribed  with  verses,  and  orna- 
mented by  her  hand ;  and  the  person  who  attended 
us,  gave  each  of  us   a  walking  stick,  cut   by  the 


u 


duke  was  not  tic- 
mmediate  vicin- 


*  I  was  informed  by  a  British  officer,  that  the  duke  was  not  ac- 
tually in  the  bloody  field,  but  somewhere  in  the  immediate  Ticini- 

ity. 

28* 


t 


-*^, 


.f*-- ,---■• 


-■— X  —  tt'L^- 


■■#.'»e^ 


'.'  I 


326  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

duke's  own  hand,  in  his  last  excursion.  There  was 
a  large  bundle  of  them  done  up  by  strings,  and  it 
seems  it  was  the  duke's  custom,  when  he  saw  a 
stick  that  pleated  him,  to  stop  and  cut  it. 

Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  and  his  lady  and  family, 
lodged  in  the  same  house  with  us,  at  Montreal,  and 
appeared  plain,  unassuming  people.  While  there, 
they  received  the  calls  of  the  principal  military  and 
civil  officers,  and  of  the  most  distinguished  private 
individuals  ;  among  the  rest,  came  the  veteran  sol- 
dier of  Wolfe,  dressed  in  his  scarlet  uniform,  and  in 
the  fashion  of  other  days. 

Before  leaving  the  palace,  v/e  wrote,  by  request, 
our  names  and  residence  ;  a  requisition  frequently 
made  in  similar  places  in  Europe. 

From  the  gallery,  in  front  of  the  castle  of  St. 
Louis,  we  had  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  river, 
and  of  the  surrounding  country,  while  the  lower  town 
lay  directly  at  our  feet,  but  was  rather  a  blemish, 
than  a  beauty,  in  the  prospect. 

The  castle  is,  at  its  foundation,  more  than  two 
hundred  feet  higher  than  the  river,  and  in  summer, 
must  be  a  most  charming  cool  spot,  but  in  winter,  a 
very  bleak  one. 

The  duchess  of  Richmond  is  in  England,  and  has 
never  been  in  America. 


• 


-wr^-—-"'    -- 


5i;i. 


QUEBEC. 


TOUR   BETWEEN   HARTFORD    AND   QUEBEC.    327 


There  was 
ings,  and  it 
n  he   saw  a 
it. 

r  and  family, 
[ontreal,  and 
While  there, 
military  and 
shed  private 
veteran  sol- 
iform,  and  in 

i,  by  request, 
n  frequently 

:astle   of  Stt 

of  the  river, 

B  lower  town 

r  a  blemish^ 

re  than  two 
in  summer, 
in  winter,  a 

ind,  and  has 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  QUEBEC 

A  stranger's  residence  of  a  few  days,  in  a  foreign 
city,  is  hardly  sufficient  to  give  him  any  thing  more 
than  general  views.  Such  views,  accurately  sketch- 
ed, are,  however  useful,  although  forming  but  an 
outline. 

Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certain- 
ly a  very  peculiar  place. 

A  military  town — containing  about  twenty  thou- 
sand inhabitants — most  compactly  aud  permanently 
built — stone  its  sole  material — environed,  as  to  its 
most  important  parts,  by  walls  and  [rates — -^nd  de- 
fended by  numerous  heavy  cannon — garrisoned  hy 
troops,  having  the  arms,  the  costume,  the  mui?c, 
the  discipline  of  Europe — foreign  in  langi cj^; ,  fea- 
tures, and  origin,  from  most  of  those  Vrhom  they 
are  sent  to  defend — founded  upon  a  rock,  and, 
in  its  highest  parts,  overlooking  a  great  extent 
of  country — between  three  and  four  hundred  miles 
from  the  ocean — in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent — 
and  yet  displaying  fleets  of  foreign  merchantmen, 
in  its  fine  capacious  bay — and  shewing  all  the  bustle 
of  a  crowded  sea-port — its  streets  narrow — populous 
and  winding  up  and  down  alni>is*  mountainous  de- 
clivities— situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts 
of  Europe — exhibiting  ii)  iU  environs,  ^he  beauty  of 
an  European  capital — ^r  d  yet,  in  winter,  smarting 
with  the  cold  of  Siberia — governed  by  a  people,  of 


^1 


ft 


* 


J^ 


r 


328    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORH   AND    (QUEBEC. 


1 


1  |F 


■  I      I  * 


I 

I 


different  language  and  habits,  from  the  mass  of  the 
population — opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving 
that  population  without  taxes,  and  in  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  every  privilege,  civil  and  religious  ;  such 
are  some  of  the  most  prominent  features,  which 
strike  a  stranger  in  the  city  of  Quebec. 

As  to  its  public  buildings,  besides  the  Gastle  of 
St.  Louis,  which  has  been  mentioned,  there  is  the 
Hotel  Dieu,  the  Convent  of  the  Ursulines,  the  Mo- 
nastery of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  for  barracks,  the 
Cathedrals,  Catholic  and  Protestant,  the  Scotch 
Church,  the  lower  town  Church,  the  Court  House, 
the  Seminary,  the  new  Jail,  and  the  artillery  bar- 
racks :  there  are  also  a  Place  D'Armes,  a  Parade, 
and  an  Esplanade.* 

The  Court  House  is  a  modern  stone  building, 
one  hundred  and  thirty-six  feet  by  forty-four,  with 
a  handsome  and  regular  front. 

The  Protestant  Cathedral  is  seen  in  the  vignette, 
being  farther  to  the  left  than  any  building  that  has  a 
steeple.  This  is  the  handsomest  modern  building 
in  the  city ;  it  is  of  stone,  and  is  one  hundred  and 
thirty-six  feet  long  by  seventy -five  broad  ;f  it  stands 
on  ground  nearly  as  high  as  any  in  the  place,  and  is 
seen  at  a  great  distance. 


*  Bouchette. 

t  AUtbedimaDBionsof  the  public  buildingi  ar«  tftken  on  the 
authority  of  Colonel  fiouchette. 


^'         J. 


QUEBEC. 

i  mass  ef  the 
yet  leaving 
le  full  enjoy- 
igious  i  such 
tures,  which 

le  Gastle  of 
there  is  the 
nes,  the  Mo- 
larracks,  the 
the  Scotch 
ourt  House, 
artillery  bar- 
es, a  Parade, 

ne  building, 
ty-four,  with 

the  vignette, 
ng  that  has  a 
em  building 
liundred  and 
d  ;t  it  stands 
place,  and  is 


•  tikM  on  the 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HAllTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.    329 

The  Catholic  Cathedra],  seen  on  the  right  of  the 
vignette,  is  built  of  stone  ;  it  is  two  hundred  and 
sixteen  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  eight  broad. 
It  was  the  first  public  building  that  we  entered  in 
Quebec.  We  found,  as  usual  in  such  places,  priests 
in  attendance,  and  people  at  their  devotions.  The 
building  is  full  of  pictures  and  images,  and  has  a 
venerable  and  ancient  appearance.  It  can  contain 
four  thousand  people. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663,  for  ecclesi- 
astical instruction  only,  but  is  not  now  confined  to 
that  profession,  although,  according  to  Colonel  Bou- 
chette,  its  members  must  be  Catholics. 

The  building  is  of  stone,  forming  three  sides  of  a 
square,  two  hundred  and  nineteen  fret  long,  and 
one  hundred  and  twenty  broad. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  in  1637,  for  the 
sick  poor  of  both  sexes.  It  includes  the  convent, 
hospital,  church,  court-yard,  cemetery,  and  gardens. 
The  principal  building  is  three  hundred  and  eigh- 
ty-three feet  long  by  fifty  broad.  This  establish- 
ment, conducted  by  nuns,  is  highly  commentjcd  for 
the  humanity,  comfort,  cleanliness,  and  good  ar- 
rangement which  prevail  in  it. 

The  Ursuline  Convent  is  a  square,  whose  side  is 
one  hundred  and  twelve  feet ;  was  Ibunded  in  1639; 
is  devoted  to  female  education,  and  is  conducted  by 
nuns. 

The  Monastery,  or  College  of  the  Jesuits,  now 
used  for  barracks,  is  three  stories  high,  and  forms  a 


# 


.fc-*--^ 


A. 


<]\ 


M 


330  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


M 


4» 


•  i 


parallelogram  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet 
by  two  hundred.     It  was  a  fine  establishment  in  the 
time  of  the  Jesuits,  and  judging  from  some  of  the 
apartments  which  I  saw,  it  contains  very  comforta- 
ble accommodations  for  officers  and  troops. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the  new  Jail,  which 
is  a  handsome  structure  of  stone,  standing  on  very 
elevated  ground  ;  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
long  by  sixty-eight  broad,  and  three  stories  high  : 
the  cost  was  over  fifteen  thousand  pounds. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  is  one  hundred  and  forty- 
seven  feet  by  one  hundred  and  eighteen,  and  stands 
in  a  very  commanding  situation,  near  the  grand  bat- 
tery. It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Provincial  Parlia- 
ment, and  for  various  public  offices,  and  an  annuity 
is  paid  to  the  Catholic  Bishop.  It  is  said  to  be  in 
a  ruinous  condition. 

The  artillery  barracks  were  built  by  the  French 
in  1750.  They  extend  five  hundred  and  twenty- 
seven  feet  by  forty,  and  contain  accommodations 
fol  the  artillery  troops  of  the  garrison  work-shops 
store-houses,  &c.  and  every  varietj  •  small  arms 
for  twenty  thousand  men,  which  are  always  kept  fit 
for  immediate  use,  and  are  fancifully  arranged. 

Quebec  is  well  paved  with  large  stones,  firmly  fix- 
ed. Most  of  its  streets  are  narrow  ;  the  principal 
ones  are  thirty-two  feet  wide,  but  most  of  them  on- 
ly irom  twenty-four  to  twenty-seven.  The  houses 
are  of  very  unequal  height,  and  generally  have  high 
sloping  roofs,  to  enable  them  to  sustain  the  ice  and 


# 


^y^- 


;UEBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEHEC.  331 


ty-four  feet 
iment  in  the 
lome  of  the 
ry  comforta- 
)ops. 

1  Jail,  which 
ling  on  very 
id  sixty  feet 
tories  high  : 
ds. 

!d  and  forty- 
1,  and  stands 
le  grand  bat- 
ncial  Parlia- 
3  an  annuity 
said  to  be  in 

the  French 
ind  twcnty- 
nfinnodations 
work-shops 

small  arms 
^ays  kept  fit 
ranged. 
s,  firmly  fix- 
le  principal 
)f  them  on- 
The  houses 

y  have  high 
the  ice  and 


snow.  The  covering  of  the  roofs  with  tin,  or  even 
with  sheet  iron,  is  by  no  means  general  ;  most  of 
them  are  stiM  c  >vered  with  shingles. 

Many  of  the  modern  houses,  especially  on  the 
highest  ground,  are  very  handsome,  and  in  the  mod- 
ern style,  and  some  new  ones  are  in  progress. 

The  market  place  is,  in  its  largest  dimensions, 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  by  one  hundred  and  six- 
ty-five. I  saw  it  on  Saturday  morning,  which  is  the 
best  time,  and  I  never  wish  to  see  a  market  better 
supplied  with  meats,  fowl,  fish,  and  vegetables,  and 
every  thing  was  in  very  good  ordf  r. 

The  prices  we  are  told  are  not  high. 

There  are  a  great  many  dogs  in  Quebec,  and 
they  are  not  kept  merely  for  parade:  they  are  made 
to  work,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  in  Quebec,  to  see 
dogs  harnessed  to  little  carts,  and  drawing  meat, 
merchandise,  and  even  wood,  up  and  down  the  hills ; 
they  pull  with  all  their  little  might,  and  seem  pleas- 
ed with  their  employment. 


Quebec  was  founded  on  the  3d  (  July,  1608,  by 
3amuel  de  Champlain,  Geographer  to  t'.ie  French 
King.  His  commencement  was  on  Cape  Diamond, 
on  the  site  of  an  Indian  village  called  Stadacon^. 

In  1629  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  but  esteem- 
ed of  so  little  value,  that  it  was  restored  in  1632. 
It  was  in  the  hands  of  private  adventurers  or  tra- 
ding companies  till  1663,  when  it  was  mad    a  loyal 


* 


# 


332  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


government,  and  became  a  regular  and  importani 
colony. 

In  1690,  Sir  William  Phipps,  with  a  great  arma- 
ment from  Boston,  attacked  and  cannonaded  Que- 
bec, and  landed  an  army,  but  was  repulsed,  with 
great  loss  and  disgrace. 

In  1712  the  attempt  was  again  made,  by  an  Eng- 
lish fleet  under  Sir  Hovenden  Walker,,  who  was  cast 
away  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  lost  seven  of  his 
largest  ships  and  three  thousand  mc  n,  while  General 
Nicholson,  who  was  coming  with  an  army  by  the 
way  of  Montreal,  was  obliged  to  retreat. 

In  1720  Charlevoix  visited  Canada,  and  it  is  in- 
teresting to  compare  his  account  of  the  appearance 
of  Quebec,  and  of  its  environs,  with  its  present  situ- 
ation. It  will  be  found  that  even  then,  not  only  the 
outlines  of  the  place  were  formed,  but  that  they 
were  filled  up  to  some  extent.  It  at  that  time  con- 
tained about  seven  thousand  souls. 

He  remarks,  that  it  stands  on  the  most  navigable 
river  in  the  universe,  and  that  there  is  no  other  city 
in  the  known  world,  a  hundred  and  twenty  leagues 
from  the  sea,  whose  harbour  is  capable  of  containing 
one  hundred  ships  of  the  line.  He  observes  that,  as 
Paris  was,  for  a  long  time,  inferior  to  what  Quebec 
then  was,  ho  anticipates  the  time  when  the  latter  will 
be  equal  to  the  former;  when  "  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  (on  the  St.  Lawrence.)  nothing  will  be  seen 
but  towns,  villas,  and  pleasure  houses*' — "when  the 
shores  shall  discover  fine  meadows,  fruitful  hills 


s 


d  important 

great  arma- 
inaded  Que- 
pulsed,  with 

,  by  an  Eng- 
who  wascast 
ieven  of  his 
hile  General 
irmy  by  the 
at. 

and  it  is  in- 
)  appearance 

present  situ- 
,  not  only  the 
)ut  that  they 
lat  time  con- 

ost  navigable 
10  other  city 
enty  leagues 
of  containing 
rves  that,  as 
vhat  Quebec 
le  latter  will 
the  eye  can 
will  be  seen 
— "when  the 
ruilful  hill>; 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC!.  333 

and  fertile  fields'* — "  when  the  whole  road  shall  be 
faced  with  magnificent  quays,  and  the  port  surround- 
ed with  superb  edifices,  and  when  we  shall  see  three 
or  four  hundred  ships  lying  in  itloaden  with  riches/' 
All  that  Charlevoix  anticipated  a  century  ago,  is 
not  yet  accomplished,  but  no  contemptible  pan  of 
it  is  already  realized.  He  speaks  of  the  beauty  of 
the  prospect  from  Cape  Diamond,  and  of  the  purity 
of  its  air,  and  says,  "  you  sometimes  find  a  sort  of 
diamonds  on  it  finer  than  those  of  Alencon" — '*  I 
have  seen  some  of  them,  (says  he,)  full  as  well  cut, 
as  if  they  had  come  from  the  hand  of  the  most  ex- 
pert workman,"  and  adds,  that  they  have  become 
very  scarce.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say,  that 
he  alludes  to  the  crystals  of  quartz.  He  speaks  of 
the  church  as  being  roofed  with  slate,  and  he  says 
that  it  is  the  only  building  in  all  Canada  which  has 
this  advantage,  all  the  others  being  covered  with 
shingles.  He  mentions  the  Governor's  residence  in 
the  fort,  and  descrioes  the  front  of  it  as  having  a 
gallery  exactly  as  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis  standing 
in  the  same  place,  has  now.  He  mentions  the  Jes- 
uits' buildings,  the  Hotel  Dieu,  the  Intendanl's  Pal- 
ace, the  Seminary  or  College,  the  Bishop's  Palace, 
and  various  other  buildings  -rtnd  institutions,  which 
evince  great  intelligence  and  vigor,  in  the  early 
French  population. 

He  says  the  tides  rise  twenty-five  feet  at  the  time 
of  the  equinox.  This  corresponds  very  nearly  with 
the  present  estimate,  which  is  from  twenty-three  to 

29 


^J 


334     TOUR    UETWKEN    IIAUTFOFIFJ  AND    QUEBEC  . 


'I 


twenty-four  feet,  and  seventeen  or  eighteen  for  com- 
mon tides  :  the  greatest  depth  of  water  is  twenty- 
eight  fathoms,  and  he  states  it  generally  at  twenty- 
five.  The  great  rise  of  tides  at  Quebec,  causes 
at  present  a  necessity  for  very  high  quays :  when 
we  landed  from  the  steamboat,  we  ascended  on  a 
plank  not  less  than  fifty  feet  long,  and  laid  from  the 
boat  to  U)e  wharf  so  as  to  form  a  rather  steep  in- 
clined plane. 

Charlevoix  commends  the  society  in  Quebec; 
be  says  you  wi^*  find  in  it "  the  best  company,  and 
nothing  is  wanting  that  can  possibly  contribute  to 
form  an  agreeable  society" — that  there  are  "  rich 
merchants,  or  such  as  live  as  if  they  were  so"  and 
*^  assemblies  full  as  brilliant  as  any  where."  He 
states,  that  **  they  play  at  cards,  or  go  abroad  on 
parties  of  pleasure,  in  the  summer  time,  in  calashes 
or  canoes ;  in  winter,  in  sledges  upon  the  snow,  or 
on  skaits  upon  the  ice'' — that  *'  the  Creoles  of  Cana- 
da draw  in  with  their  native  breath  an  air  of  free- 
dom, which  makes  them  very  agreeable  in  the  com- 
merce of  life,  and  no  where  in  the  world  is  the 
French  language  spoken  in  greater  purity^  there  being 
not  the  smallest  foreign  accent  in  the  pronuncia- 
tion. 

He  says,  that  although  there  are  no  rich  men, 
every  body  puts  on  as  good  a  face  as  possible  ;  and 
that  they  make  good  cheer,  provided  they  are  able 
to  be  at  the  expense  of  fine  clothes  ;  if  not,  in  order 
to  be  able  to  appear  well  dressed,  they  retrench  in 


\ 


[^IJEREC 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND     tlUEIJEC.     335 


,j 


Ben  for  com- 
r  is  twenty- 
y  at  twenly- 
bec,  causes 
uays :  when 
cended  on  a 
aid  from  the 
ler  steep  in- 

in  Quebec; 
tmpany,  and 
contribute  to 
re  are  "  rich 
ere  so"  and 
vhere."  He 
;o  abroad  on 
e,  in  calashes 
be  snow,  or 
)les  of  Cana- 
I  air  of  free- 
in  the  com- 
world  is  the 
ff  there  being 
3  pronuncia- 

o  rich  men, 
ossible ;  and 
hey  are  able 
not,  in  order 
Y  retrench  in 


the  article  of  the  table :  that  they  have  fine  stature 
and  complexions,  a  gay  and  sprightly  behaviour,  with 
great  sweetness  and  politeness  of  manners,  and  that 
the  least  rusticity,  either  in  language  or  behaviour,  is 
utterly  unknown,  even  in  the  remotest  and  most 
distant  parts.  It  is  surprising  to  see  how  little 
change  there  has  been  in  these  respects  after  the 
lapse  of  a  century,  and  after  sixty  years  of  subjec- 
tion to  a  foreign  power. 

Charlevoix's  comparisons  between  the  Canadi- 
ans and  the  New  Englanders  are  amusing:  he  re- 
marks, that  in  New-England,  and  the  other  British 
Provinces  "  there  prevails  an  opulence  which  they 
are  utterly  at  a  loss  to  use ;  and  in  New  France  a 
poverty  hid  by  an  air  of  being  in  easy  circumstan- 
ces, which  seems  not  at  all  studied."  "The  Eng- 
lish planter  amasses  wealth,  and  never  makes  any 
superfluous  expense  ;  tfie  French  inhabitant  again 
enjoys  what  he  has  acquired,  and  often  makes  a 
parade  of  what  he  is  not  possessed  of." 

I  will  finish  these  citations  by  one  which  is  in- 
deed most  remarkable,  and  accounts  for  the  dread' 
ful  scents  of  massacre  and  invasion,  which  the  Eng- 
lish colonies  so  often  and  so  long  experienced  from 
the  French. 

"  The  English  Americans,  (says  Charlevoix,)  are 
averse  to  war,  because  they  have  a  great  deal  to 
lose  ;  they  take  no  care  to  manage  the  Indians,  from 
a  belief  that  they  stand  in  no  need  of  them.  The 
French  youth,  for  very  diflierent  reasons,  abominate 


\     ■{ 


,1 


■*i 


/    , 


'  P 


H 


336  TOUR  BEBWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


the  thoughts  of  peace,  and  live  well  with  the  na- 
tives, whose  esteem  they  easily  gain  in  time  of  war, 
and  their  friendship  at  all  times." 

With  respect  to  the  institutions*  of  Quebec,  most 
of  which  were  founded  by  the  French,  the  valua- 
ble statistical  account  of  Canada,  by  Colonel  Bou- 
chette,  will  supply  every  detail,  as  to  the  nunneries, 
the  hospitals,  the  college,  the  churches,  catholic  and 
protestant,  the  clergy,  and  every  other  important 
particular,  which  a  stranger  would  desire  to  learn. 
This  work,  with  its  grand  topographical  map,  is 
however,  I  believe,  iittse  known  in  the  United  States, 
and  is  rather  too  expensive  for  general  ctrculation.f 

Besides  the  peculiar,  or  at  least  remarkable  fea- 
tures, which  have  been  sketched,  Quebec  is  cer- 
tainly a  very  respectable  city,  and  one  of  those  pla- 
ces on  the  American  continent,  most  worthy  of  the 
curiosity  of  an  intelligent  stranger.     Indeed  to  have 

*  After  being  so  full  in  my  notices  of  scenery  and  historical 
events,  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  more  might  have  been  reasona- 
bly expected  respecting  its  institutions ;  the  omission  was  acci- 
dental ;  for  fear  that  our  fine  weather  would  fail  us,  we  postponed 
these  topics  till  the  last,  and  then  left  Quebec,  several  days  sooner 
than  we  had  expected  or  wished,  which  deprived  ui  of  the  op- 
portunity of  making  other  observations. 

t  Colonel  Bouchette  is  highly  loyal,  and  his  zeal  (commcndtc- 
ble,  without  doubt  in  the  main)  perhaps  imparts  a  degree  of  as- 
perity, to  some  of  his  notices  of  the  events  of  the  late  warfare, 
on  the  Canadian  frontiers,  and  of  the  policy  of  the  American 
government.  These  things  however  do  not  sfriovisly  impair  the 
value  of  his  great  and  laborious  work,  for  which  be  deserves  high 
commendation. 


'i 


<IUEBEC. 

with  the  na- 
I  time  of  war, 

Quebec,  most 
h,  the  vaiua- 
Colonel  Bou- 
he  nunneries, 
,  catholic  and 
ler  important 
tsire  to  learn, 
lical  map,  is 
Jnited  States, 
circulation.f 
narkable  fea- 
jebec  is  cer- 
of  those  pla- 
i^orthy  of  the 
deed  to  have 

'  and  historical 
ire  been  reasona- 
ission  was  acci- 
is,  we  postponed 
eral days  sooner 
i  ui  of  the  op- 
al (commcndst- 
a  degree  of  as- 
le  late  warfare, 
the  American 
visly  impair  the 
e  deserves  high 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  337 

seen  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  the  intervening  and 
surrounding  country,  is,  in  some  degree,  a  substi- 
tute for  a  visit  to  Europe.  The  latitude  of  Quebec 
is  46»  48'  39''  N. 


THfc  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

Montreal,  Oct,  12. — The  mighty  outlet  of 
the  most  magnificent  collection  of  inland  waters  in 
the  world,  the  North  American  lakes — individually, 
like  seas — collectively,  covering  the  area  of  an  em- 
pire ;  already  enlivened  by  the  sails  of  commerce, 
.nnd  recently  awed  by  the  thunder  of  contending 
navies ;  bordered  by  thriving  villages  and  settle- 
ments, and  hereafter  to  be  surrounded  by  populous 
towns  and  cities,  and  countries  ;  associated  as  this 
river  is  with  such  realities,  and  with  such  anticipa- 
tions,  it  is  impossible  to  approach  the  St.  Lawrence, 
with  ordinary  feelings,  or  to  view  it  as  merely  a 
river  of  primary  magnitude. 

Already,  the  two  great  cities  of  Canada  are  erec- 
ted on  its  borders;  Europe  sends  her  fleets  to  Quer 
bee,  and  even  to  Montreal;  nearly  two  hundred 
miles  of  intervening  water,  are  now  daily  passed  be- 
tween the  cities  by  steam  boats,  some  of  which  are 
as  large  in  tonnage  as  Indiainen,  or  sloops  of  war. 
It  is  now  no  very  diHicult  task,  to  be  wafted  on  the 
St.  Lawrence  from  Lake  Ontario  to  the  Ocean,  a 
distance  of  nearly  seven  hundred  miles,  or  from 

Niagara,  which  ditifers  little  from  one  thousand,  and 

29* 


i' 


'^i 


J*       •■:<l 


'<  ». 


Vi 


y 


■1^ 


f  -  ) 


338  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Q,UEBEC. 


^H 


the  entire  range  from  Lake  Superior,  is  two  thou- 
sand. 

In  that  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which,  within  a 
week,  we  have  now  twice  passed,  there  are  fewer 
observations  to  be  made  than  on  manv  routes  much 
less  extensive,  and  on  many  rivers  of  much  inferior 
magnitude.  This  arises  from  the  great  sameness 
which  prevails  along  the  banks.  They  appear  to  be 
very  generally  alluvial;  extensively,  they  are  so  low 
that  they  seem,  in  many  places,  hardly  to  form  an 
adequate  barrier  against  the  occasional  swelling 
and  overflow  of  the  great  river,  which  they  limit; 
indeed,  it  is  difficult  always  to  convince  one's  self, 
that  they  are  not,  here  and  there  actually  lower 
than  the  river;  of  rocks,  till  we  come  within  a  few 
miles  of  Quebec,  there  are  hardly  any  to  be  seen, 
and  yet  it  is  obvious,  that  there  are  rocks  hi  the 
vicinity,  because  the  houses  are  often  constructed 
of  stone;  for  many  miles  from  Montreal,  on  the 
way  to  Quebec,  (he  banks  are  little  less  than  damp 
meadows,  reseiiibling  Holland  extremely;  some- 
times the  shores  recede  in  natural  terraces,  and 
retirini?  platforms,  placed,  one  above  another,  till 
the  last  visible  one  forms  a  high  ridge ;  at  other 
times,  precipitous  banks,  cut  down  as  it  were  by 
art,  exhibit  strata  of  gravel,  and  clay  and  sand — form- 
ing distinct,  and  often  variously  colored  horizontal 
layers;  the  forests  are  usually  removed  from  the 
immediate  margin  of  the  river,  and  the  verdure  is, 
in  most  places,  rich  and  lively. 


i   '\ 


■^ 


lUEBEC. 

is  two  thou- 

ich,  within  a 
re  are  fewer 
routes  much 
luch  inferior 
at  sameness 
appear  to  be 
\y  are  so  low 
^  to  form  an 
nal  swelling 
I  they  limit; 
:e  one's  self, 
tually  lower 
within  a  (qw 
to  be  seen, 
•ocks  hi  the 
constructed 
eal,  on   the 
than  damp 
ly;    some- 
rraces,  and 
nother,  till 
;  at  other 
t  were  by 
nd — form- 
horizontal 
i  from  the 
verdure  is. 


\ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEnEC.  339 

The  average  width  of  the  river  between  Montre- 
al and  Quebec,  appears  to  bo  about  two  miles  ;  but 
it  is  extremely  irregular;  sometimes  it  does  not  ex- 
ceed half  a  mile,  or  three  fourths  of  a  mile,  but  this 
is  true  only  near  Quebec,  and  at  a  few  other  pla- 
ces ;  at  other  times^,  it  becomes  two,  three,  or  more 
miles  wide.  I  have  already  mentioned,  that  in  the 
Lake  of  St.  Peter,  as  it  is  called,  a  few  miles  above 
the  town  of  Three  Rivers,  an  expansion  of  the 
river  takes  place,  so  that,  for  more  than  twenty* 
miles,  its  breadth  is  nine  or  ten  miles. 

The  current  is  considerable — probably  three 
miles  an  hour,  generally,  but  in  some  places  it  has, 
apparently  double  that  force,  and  the  river,  instead 
of  flowing,  as  it  commonly  does,  with  an  unruffled 
surface,  becomes  perturbed,  and  hurries  along,  with 
murmurs  and  eddies,  and  in  a  few  places,  with 
foam  and  breakers. 

This  is  particularly  the  case  at  the  Richelieu 
rapids,  fifty  miles  above  Quebec,  where  the  river 
is  compressed  within  hHJf  a  mile,  and  the  navigable 
part  within  much  less  ;  numerous  rocks,  which  ap- 
pear to  be  principally  large  rolled  masses,  form, 
when  the  water  is  low,  as  it  was  when  we  passed,  a 
terrible  reef,  and  when  the  river  is  up,  is  a  danger- 
ous concealed  enemy.  Through  these  rapids,  as  was 
mentioned  on  the  passage  down,)  the  steam  boats 
dare  not  go  in  the  night,  and  the  instance  in  which 
it  is  said  to  have  been  done,  was  to  carry  to  Quebec 

*  Colonel  Bouchette  states  the  length  at  twenty^fiYe  miles,  but 
he  includes  that  portion  which  is  full  of  islands. 


4 


fl 


m 


* 


340  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFO'i?.  AND  QUEBEC. 


the  news  of  the  Duke  of  Rict;  vt^ijd's  death.  The 
speed  of  the  steam  boat  had,  however,  been  surpas- 
sed bj  that  of  the  land  messenger,  who  had  already 
arrived  with  the  gloomy  news.  At  the  lower  end 
of  the  town  of  Montreal,  the  stream,  compressed 
by  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  is  so  impetuous,  that 
the  steam  boats,  which  every  where  else  can  stem 
the  current,  are  here  sometimes  obliged  to  anchor, 
and  procure  the  aid  of  oxen  ;  four  yoke  were  em- 
ployed, with  a  drag  rope,  to  draw  the  Malsham — 
the  boat  in  which  we  came  up  to  Montreal  through 
this  pass  ;*  it  is  however,  not  half  a  mile,  that  the 
river  is  so  rapid  ;  for,  after  passing  this  place,  steam 
carries  the  boats  on  again  to  their  moorings,  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  town.  It  requires  a  very  strong 
wind  to  carry  vessels  with  sails  against  this  current. 
I  saw  some  vessels  here  which  enjoyed  this  aid 
and  for  one  hour,  I  could  not  perceive  that  they 
made  any  head  way. 

The  population  on  the  river  is  very  considerable, 
nearly  all  the  way  between  the  two  cities,  so  that 
on  both  sides,  houses  or  villages  are  almost  con- 
stantly in  view.  There  are,  however,  but  two 
towns  of  any  magnitude,  both  of  which  have  been 
mentioned — Sorel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  and  which  connects  Lake  Champlain 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  forty-five  miles  below  Mon- 
treal, and  the  Trois  Rivieres,  or  Three  Rivers,t 
*  I  am  informed  that  this  aid  is  not  always  necessary. 
t  The  tide  ceases  near  this  place. 


)    QUEBEC, 

I  death.  The 
,  been  surpas- 

0  had  alreadj 
the  lower  end 
I,  compressed 
[ipetuous,  that 
else  can  stem 
;ed  to  anchor, 
oke  were  em- 
le  Malsham — 
itreal  through 
mile,  that  the 
s  place,  steam 
torings,  at  the 

a  very  strong 
t  this  current. 
)yed  this  aid 
ive  that  they 

considerable, 
cities,  so  that 
almost  con- 
ver,  but  two 
ih  have  been 
le  river  of  the 
e  Champlain 
5  below  Mon- 
iree  Rivers,t 

1  necessary. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ((UEiREC.  341 

half  way  between  Quebec  and  Montreal.  This 
large  town  derives  its  whimsical  name,  from  the 
fact  that  the  river  St.  iVJaiirice,  which  empties  here,  is 
divided  atits  mouth,  by  little  islands,  into  three  parts, 
so  that  there  seem  to  be  three  rivers  instead  of  one 

Most  of  the  houses  on  both  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  as  well  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  are 
white,  roof  and  all ;  the  roofs  of  houses  in  Canada, 
being  frequently  protected  from  fire,  as  well  as 
beautified,  by  a  white  wash  of  salt  and  lime,  or  of 
lime  only,  which  is  renewed  every  year. 

There  are  many  villages  on  the  river ;  some  arc 
large  and  populous,  and  most  of  then  are  furnished 
with  handsome,  and  a  few  with  grand  churches; 
they  have  from  one  spi^e  to  three,  and  having  gen- 
erally a  brilliant  covering  of  tin,  both  on  the  roofs 
and  spires,  they  blaze  in  the  sun,  and,  even  at  the 
distance  of  miles,  dazzle  the  eyes  of  the  beholder. 
Some  other  public  buildings,  and  the  best  private 
houses  on  the  banks,  are  occasionally  covered  in 
the  same  manner.  Most  of  the  cottages  are  only 
one  story  high,  and  are  small ;  but  large  and  good 
houses,  appearing  tike  the  residences  of  the  seign- 
eurs and  other  country  gentlemen,  are  hardly  ever 
out  of  sight.  The  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  thus 
verdant  and  beautiful  from  cultivation,  and  decked 
every  where  with  brilliant  white  houses,  and  villa- 
ges, impress  a  traveller  very  pleasantly,  although 
he  finds  but  little  variety  in  the  views.  1  have 
omitted  to  mention,  that  from  the  rapids  of  Riche- 


I* 

I' 


^    <: 


*i 


II 


l 
h 


....  I 


342    TOUR  BETWEEN  HAIITFORD    AND  QUEBEC. 

lieu,  going  down  the  river,  the  banks  almost  imme- 
diiitel)'  become  considerably  more  elevated. 


MB  '      t 

'1 


'       'I 


STEAM  BOATS. 

Although  there  are  roads,  said  to  be  good,  on 
both  sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  was,  till  within 
five  or  six  years,  a  considerably  arduous  underta- 
king, to  travel,  back  and  forward,  between  the 
two  cities  of  Canada.  By  land,  in  the  slow  Cana- 
dian calash,  it  was  tedious,  and  although  down  the 
river  from  Montreal  to  Quebec,  it  was  obviously 
no  difficult  thing  to  go  with  the  current — to  return 
by  water,  was  always  dilUfcult.  With  head  winds 
it  was  of  course,  impossible  to  ascmd,  nor,  with 
strong  head  winds,  could  they  always  descend,  even 
with  the  aid  of  the  stream. 

Quebec  and  Montreal  were  therefore  a  great 
way  apart,  as  regarded  facility  of  intercourse  j  now 
they  are,  in  (his  respect,  very  n<!ar,  and  it  is  possi- 
ble to  visit  either  city  from  the  other,  quite  com- 
fortably and  at  ease — to  transact  business,  and  re- 
turn, within  the  period  of  four  days,  although  the 
distance  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles.  This 
wonderful  facility  has  been  imparled  by  steam 
boats,  of  which  no  fewer  than  seven  now  ply  be- 
tween Montreal  and  Quebec.  They  are  named 
Maishum,  Swiflsure,  I,a(!y  Sherbrook,  Quebec. 
Telegraph,  Car  of  Commerce,  and  Caledonia. 


tUEBEC. 

ilmost  imme- 
Dvated. 


be  good,  on 
as,  till  within 
jous  underta- 
between  the 
e  slow  Cana- 
ugh  down  the 
i^as  obviously 
nt — to  return 
h  head  winds 
id,  nor,  with 
descend,  even 

sfore  a  great 
course ;  now 
iiU  it  is  possi- 
r,  quite  com- 
less,  and  re- 

althou^h  the 
miles.  This 
:d    by  steam 

now  ply  bc- 
'  are  named 
Dk,  Qu(^bec, 
iiedonia* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  343 

The  burden*  of  the  Malsham  is  above  six  hun- 
dred tons,  and  that  of  the  Lady  Sherbrook  was  sta- 
ted to  us  at  about  ei^ht  hundred ;  these  are  the 
largest,  and  most  of  the  others  are  considerably 
smaller. 

They  are  built  with  deep  holds  for  freight,  which 
appears  to  be  much  more  an  object  with  them  than 
passengers.  Going  down  in  the  Swiftsure,  of  be- 
tween three  and  four  hundred  tons,  we  had  but 
about  a  dozen  cabin  passengers,  and  returning  in 
the  Malsham,  we  had  but  four.  The  accommoda- 
tions are  good,  and  the  provision  for  the  table  am- 
ple— for  dinner,  it  is  luxurious— there  is  a  lunch  at 
noon,  for  dinner  is  at  four  oVIock,  and  tea  at  eight; 
breakfast  also  at  eight  o'clock. 

The  captains  of  the  boats  partake  in  all  the  good 
things  ;  some  of  them  at  least,  are  convivial  with 
their  guests,  and  sit  long  to  drink  wine,  which  is 
the  common  practice  in  Canada. 

Some  of  them  appear  to  be  in  danger  from  reple- 
tion ;  they  have  but  lilUe  bodily  exercise,  and  swim- 
ming as  they  do  in. a  sea  of  luxury,  it  is  fiot  extra- 
ordinary that  they  exhibit  the  physical  offccts  of 
good  living ;  they  are,  however,  very  obliging  and 
courteous  to  their  passenger',  who  are  made  per- 
fectly comfortable  on  board  of  their  boats. 

The  machinery  is  situated  deep  in  the  hold,  and 
appears  but  little  above  deck  ;  this  circumstance, 
witii  the  depth  of  the  hull,  and  the  burdeti  of  freight 

*  Thnt  of  the  Car  of  Commerce  is  stoted  at  about  kix  hundred 
tons. 


< 


4 


u 


1 


•  '■».' 


(, 


v 

t 

H 
\ 


344    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QULiSLC. 

which  the  boats  carry,  causes  them  to  move  much 
more  steadily  than  ours  do* 

On  board  the  Malsham,  we  could  scarcely  per- 
ceive the  jar  of  the  machinery;  there  being  no  la- 
dies on  board,  Mr.  W and  niyself  were  per- 
mitted to  appropriate  the  after  cabin,  a  very  con- 
venient room,  where,  with  a  comfortable  fire,  we 
enjoyed  even  domestic  retirement,  and  were  allow- 
ed to  occupy  our  time  as  we  pleased. 

We  w^re  told,  that  the  Lady  Sherbrook  was  the 
finest  boat  in  the  line,  but  we  were  not  on  board  of 
hf.T. 

The  fuel  for  the  boats  costs  about  two  dollars 
and  fifty  cents  the  cord,  and  they  stop  twice,  once 
at  Sorel,  and  once  at  the  Three  Rivers,  to  ♦ake  it  in. 

The  passage  costs  ten  dollars  down  to  Quebec, 
and  Iwelve  returning ;  we  were  on  board  two  nights, 
and  one  day,  in  going  down,  and  two  days  and  three 
nij»hts  in  returning;  but  a  part  of  two  of  the  nights, 
in  the  last,  and  one  of  (hem  in  the  first,  was  spent  in 
the  dock. 

Steam  boat  business  has  been  very  profitable  on 
this  river,  but  is  now  said  to  be  otherwise,  owing 
principally  to  its  being  overdone. 


' 


DANGERS  OF  STEAM  BOATS. 

71ie  catastrophes  produced  by  the  explosion  of 
the  boilers  of  steam  boats,  having  now  become 
rare,  the  attention  of  the  public,  in  consequence  of 


"^it 


lUEBtC. 

move  much 

carcely  per- 
being  no  la- 
If  were  per- 
a  very  con- 
ible  fire,  we 
were  allow- 

ook  was  the 
on  board  of 

two  dollars 

twice,  once 
to^ake  it  in. 

to  Quebec, 
1  two  nights, 

s  and  three 
f  the  nights, 
tvas  spent  in 

rofitable  on 
nse,  owing 


X plosion  of 
>w  become 
equence  of 


TOUR  BETWEEN  RARTPORD  AND  ^VKBRO.    346 

several  unhappy  occurrences,  and  especially  of  the 
late  dreadful  one  on  Lake  Champlain,  has  been 
directed  to  the  dangers  of  fire.  The  active  volca- 
no which  the  steam  boat  necessarily  carries  in  her 
bowels,  seems  sufficiently  appalling,  and  few  per- 
sons, when  first  beginning  to  travel  in  this  way,  can 
Vif.  down  to  sleep,  without  deeply  pondering,  that  a 
furious  imprisoned  enemy  is  raging  within  the  com- 
bustible vehicle  that  bears  them  along,  and  that 
both  fire  and  water,  usually  foes,  but  here  leagued 
in  unnatural  alliance,  may  conspire  for  their  de- 
struction. Rarel}',  however,  does  it  appear  to  have 
occurred  to  the  traveller,  that  the  most  serious  dan- 
ger (as  the  thing  is  actually  managed,)  arises  from 
just  that  negligence,  and  presumption  and  apathy, 
which  destroy  so  many  buildings,  so  much  proper- 
ty, and  so  many  lives  on  shore. 

I  am  sorry  to  say  that,  in  the  boats  on  these 
northern  waters,  there  is  not  that  degree  of  care  and 
anxious  vigilance  which  the  case  certainly  demands, 
where  so  much  property  and  so  many  lives  are  at 
stake.  The  Phoenix,  as  I  have  before  observed, 
wab,  without  doubt,  destroyed  by  a  candle ;  still, 
candles  are  negligently  left  on  board  of  most  of 
the  boats  in  the  northern  waters ;  fires  and  candles  are 
not  adequately  watched  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
we  have  seen  in  one  of  the  Canadian  boats,  a  fire 
made  in  an  open  stove,  standing  without  a  chimney, 
on  the  naked  deck,  while  the  coals  were  every  mo- 
ment blowing  against  pine  ip&rs,  and  falling  on  the 

30 


11 


II 


346    TOUR    BETWEEN    UARTFUKD    AND    (QUEBEC. 

deck,  which  was  made  of  dry  pine  and  covered 
with  pitch.  We  were  also  exposed  to  danger  from 
a  very  unexpected 


\ 


INCIDENT. 

On  our  passage  up  the  river,  in  a  northeasterly 
storm,  juiit  as  we  were  entering  the  Richelieu  rap- 
ids, where  we  needed  all  our  power  to  stem  the 
current,  and  any  disaster  would  be  peculiarly  em- 
barrassing, we  were  pressing  on,  not  only  with  pow- 
erful steam,  but  with  a  strong  and  fair  wind,  which 
strained  every  thread  of  our  large  square  sail,  the 
only  one  which  we  carried.  Our  mast,  apparently 
about  fifty  feet  high,  and  of  proportionate  diameter, 
was,  it  seems,  only  feebly  braced  from  the  bow,  al- 
though perhaps  sufficiently  in  the  other  direction. 

The  Captain,  having  been  up  the  preceding  night, 
was  asleep  below :  I  was  on  deck,  and  observed 
that  our  mast,  with  its  feeble  shrouds,  was  strained 
to  the  utmost,  and  felt  some  anxiety  lest  it  should 
fail.  Going  below,  I  was  scarcely  seated,  before  a 
tfrashand  an  outcry  brought  me  again  on  deck. 

The  wind,  it  appears,  suddenly  flirted  around, 
and  a  violent  squall  from  an  angry  cloud,  instantly 
threw  the  sail  all  aback  upon  the  mast;  there  being 
no  adequate  stays  O"  braces  to  sustain  tlie  solitary 
pine,  it  snapped,  like  a  pipe's  stem  ;  the  two  chimnies 
were  a  few  yards  behind  ;  the  heavy  spar  which  sup- 
ported the  sail  at  top,  falling  violently  across  one  of 
the  chimnies,  was  broken  quite  in  two;  the  mast, 


J'    i 


)    <iUEB£C. 

)  and  covered 
0  danger  from 


northeasterly 
lichelieu  rap- 
r  to  stem  the 
)eculiarly  em- 
nly  with  pow- 
r  wind,  which 
[uare  sail,  the 
St,  apparently 
late  diameter^ 
1  the  bow,  al- 
r  direction, 
needing  night, 
nd   observed 
was  strained 
est   it  should 
ted,  before  a 
)n  deck, 
rted  around, 
>ud,  instantly 
there  beinc 
the  solitary 
vvochinjiiies 
ir  which  sup- 
icross  one  of 
'»  the  mast, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  347 

also,  in  its  fall  broke  the  horizontal  iron  rods,  which 
crossed  each  other  and  were  fastened  to  some  high 
frame  work,  to  sustain  the  chimnies  ;  the  sail  fell 
over  the  mouths  of  both  chimnies,  and  shut  them 
up  completely,  and  from  the  top  of  one  of  them,  sus- 
tained by  the  cords  which  fastened  them  to  the  sail, 
hung  the  two  broken  pieces  of  the  yard,  probably 
forty  feet  in  length. 

The  Captain  could   not  be  immediately  found : 
the  Canadian  seamen  who  managed  the  boat,  vocif- 
erated most  furiously  in  French,  but  seemed  utterly 
confounded,  and  without  resource,  and  some  feeble 
attempts  which  they  made   to   disengage   the  sail 
from  the  chimnies,  only  pulled  it  more  entirely  over 
them.     In  the  mean  time,  the  wi.id,  which  continu- 
ed to  blow  violently,  jerked  the  sail  and  its  broken 
spars  with  so  much  force,  that  there  was  much  dan- 
ger that  the  chimnies  would   go  by  the  board  ;  in 
which  case,  our  furnaces  being  in  full  action  below, 
would  throw  out  their  flame  immediately  upon  the 
deck,  and  upon  tho  tierces  of  gin,  by  which  it  was 
coverfnl   even  close  to  the  chimnies.     There  ap- 
peared to  be  nearly  cnio  hundred  of  thf?se   tierces, 
and  the  explosion  of  ^ny  one  oftbem,  which  would 

probably  occur  if  struck  by  the  fire,  would  involve 
us  in  sheets  of  flame;  and  should  we  even  succeed 

in  extinguishing   the  fire,  our   boat    without  either 

steam  or  sail,  would  be  complcialv  unmanageable, 

and  be  liable  to  be  wrecked  at  the  foot  of  the  rap- 

ids. 


0  ' 


'I 


f 


»      f 


J 


If 


i 


I  I 

ll 


w 


>      ii 


I 


548    TOUR  BETWEEN    HAftTFORD    AND    QUEBEC^ 

* 

In  this  moment  of  anxiety,  (while  a  poor  Scotch 
emigrant,  whose  all  was  on  board,  was  weeping  and 
wringing  his  hands,  and  exclaiming  that  we  should 
all  be  lost,)  the  Captain  arrived  on  deck.  The 
wind  worried  the  sail  across  the  top  of  one  of  the 
chimnies,  which  was  cut  into  points  like  a  picket 
fence,  so  that  the  canvass  was  soon  completely 
perforated,  and  the  chimney  stood  up  through  it, 
like  a  head  in  a  pillory.  The  other  chimney  was 
so  battered  by  the  fall  of  the  yard,  that  it  could 
not  pierce  the  sail,  especially  as  it  was  guarded  at 
that  part  by  a  strong  »-ope,  and  every  effort  to  dis- 
engage it,  failed'.  It  was  easy  to  foresee  what  must 
follow:  the  sail,  which  being  wet  with  rain,  for 
sometime  .resisted  the  heat,  now  became  so  dried, 
that  it  took  fire  and  blazed.  The  Captain  sent  up 
one  of  the  sailors  to  cut  it  away,  and  the  man  with 
sufficient  hardihood,  crawled  up  and  worked  where 
it  was  on  fire  all  around  him.  At  length  by  burn- 
ing, it  fell  from  the  chimney,  and  we  were  extrica- 
ted from  our  unpleasant  situation.  If,  however,  the 
sail,  the  fuel  on  deck,  and  every  part  of  the  boat 
bad  been  dry,  and  especially  had  the  accident  oc- 
curred in  the  nif'ht.  the  consequences  might  have 
been  very  painful.  But  there  was  an  eye  superior 
to  human  vigilaiice,  which  watched  over  our  safety. 

imiT^ediately  after  this  accident,  we  had  a  good 
proof  of  the  hivi<uier  in  which  science  and  art  can 
sometimes  triumph  over  the  obstacles  of  nature. 
We  entered  the  rapids  of  Richelieu,  not  only   with 


I)      ^ 


M. 


i&i  ■  r 


QUEBEC^ 

poor  Scotch 
weeping  and 
at  we  should 
deck.     The 
f  one  of  the 
like  a  picket 
n  completely 
p  through  it, 
chimney  was 
hat  it  could 
IS  guarded  at 
effort  to  dis- 
ee  what  must 
^ith   rain,  for 
me  so  dried, 
ptain  sent  up 
the  man  with 
orked  where 
gth  by  burn- 
irere  extrica- 
lowever,  the 
t  of  the  boat 
ccident   oc- 
might  have 
eye  superior 
r  our  saff'ty. 
had  a  good 
and  art  can 
s  of  nature, 
t  onlv    with 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.     349 

an  o-^posing  current  of  great  strength,  but  with  a 
strong  head  wind;  but  still,  by  the  force  of  steam 
alone,  we  fought  our  way  through,  and  indeed  the 
same  wind  continued  through  the  remainder  of  our 
passage. 


A  NIGHT  SCENE  ON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE.        ^ 

The  long  twilight  of  this  climate,  which,  (as  ob- 
served at  Montreal,)  in  a  degree  compensates  for 
the  shortness  of  the  days,  was  exhausted  ;  the  cot- 
tages and  villages  on  shore  cast  their  evening  light 
on  the  river;  the  waning  moon,  reduced  to  less 
than  half  her  full  size,  had  just  risen  over  our  stern, 
and  cast  a  feeble  radiance  on  the  flood  and  the 
shores ;  the  stars,  unobscured  by  a  single  cloud, 
vi^ere  bright  as  gems  in  the  azure  vault ;  the  galaxy 
was  delicately  traced  athwart  the  sky— all  was  still- 
ness except  the  dashina;  of  the  water  wheels,  the 
cry  of  the  steersman,  and  the  occasional  song  of  the 
Canadian  boatmen ;  when  the  aurora  borealis  ap- 
peared, under  circumstances  which  1  never  before 
witnessed. 

Not  only  was  there  a  mild  glow  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  sky,  similar  to 
that  seen  through  a  transparency,  but  there  were 
shoots  of  light  darting  upward  like  very  feeble 
flames,  now  elongating,  n jw  receding,  apd  chang- 
ing their  places. 

30* 


';  4 


a^ 


,^' 


350    TOUR    BETWEEN    UARTFOriD    AND  'QUEBEC. 


'0 


if: 


^y^  k 


After  being  a  little  while  below,  I  was  delighted, 
on  returning,  to  see  a  zone  of  light  passing  through 
the  zenith,  extending  across  the  entire  heavens^  in- 
tersecting the  milky  way  very  obliquely,  greatly 
surpassing  it  in  brightness,  and  forming  a  beautiful 
glowing  belt. 

At  this  moment  our  two  chimneys  emitted  vol- 
umes of  smoke,  succeeded  by  flame,  and  a  long 
stream  of  brilliant  sparks,  carried  far  astern  by  the 
wind,  illuminated  the  deck  and  the  water. 

The  Lady  Sherbrooke  going  down  the  river, 
glowing  with  lamps,  and  streaming  with  fire,  now 
moved  majestically  by  us,  and  seemed  a  floating 
and  illuminated  castle.  Loud  vociferations  of  nau- 
tical French,  from  both  boats,  were  soon  lost  in  the 
rapidly  increasing  distance  ;  while  the  lovely  belt  in 
the  heavens,  beginning  to  break,  and  hanging  here 
and  there  in  pale  patches  of  light,  finally  vanished, 
and  resigned  the  sky  to  the  moon  and  the  stars. 

jYole. — July  31st,  18-20.  'I'lie  papTs  have  just  informed  us  o( 
ihe  death  of  the  celebrated  Bolnnist,  Frederick  Pursh.  He 
died  at  Montreal  on  the  1 1th  iiist.  ailcr  a  lingering  illness. 
"  When  the  efforls  nnd  purposes  of  a  man  who  has,  by  u.eful  or 
f^plendid  labours,  atlracteil  the  attention  of  the  world,  are  cat  off' 
by  death,  and  his  mortal  toil  is  over,  the  mind  dwelU  with  an  in- 
creased interest  on  circumstances,  which  might  not  otherwise  have 
attracted  our  attention.  Tliis  is  my  apology  for  the  following  note. 

At  the  town  of  Sorel,  when  we  wore  returning  to  Montreal  in 
the  steam  boat,  Mr.  Pursh  came  on  board,  and  was  with  us  the 
remainder  of  the  passagK.  His  scientific  labours  are  well  known, 
and  the  public  have  pronounced  their  decided  approbation  of  his 
beautiful  work,   the  American  Flors    Published   in  London   in 


1/  H 


•QUEBEC. 

vas  delighted, 
ssing  through 
e  heavens t  in- 
juely,  greatly 
[ig  a  beautiful 

emitted  vol- 
>,  and  a  long 
astern  by  the 
ter. 

vn  the   river, 

ith   fire,   now 

led  a  floating 

itions  of  nau- 

•on  lost  in  the 

lovely  belt  in 

hanging  here 

lly  vanished, 

the  stars. 

st  informed  us  o( 
CK  PunsH.  He 
g;  illness. 
fias,  by  u.eful  or 
irorld,  are  cat  off 
rells  wilh  an  in- 
t  otherwise  have 
c  following  note. 
:  to  Montreal  in 
was  with  us  the 
are  well  known, 
>probalion  of  his 
I   in  LolJtlon   in 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND  <IUEBEC.    351 


MONTREAL. 

St,  Johns,  Oct.  lAthf  1810. — On  leaving  the  city, 
this  morning,  we  passed  again  to  Longueil,  but  not 
in  so  frail  a  bark  as  before.  We  were  conveyed  in 
a  horse  boat,  worked  by  ten  horses,  and  which, 
when  we  entered,  had  just  discharged  sixteen  carts 

1814.    Mr.  Pursh  expressed  himself  very  warmly  on  the  subject 
of  the  liberal  aid  which  he  received  in  Europe  from  scientific 
men,  in  the  use  of  their  libraries  and  their  herbariums,  and 
in  the  tender  of  their  private  advice  and  information  ;  he  men- 
tioned, particularly,  his  obligations  to  Sir  Joseph    Banks   and 
President  Smith.     He  informed  me,  that  he  contemplated  An- 
other (our  to  Europe  for  the  purpose  of  publishing  his   Flora  of 
Canada,  upon  which  he  had  been  already  several  years  occupied, 
and  expected  to  be  still  occupied  for  several  years  more.     These 
researches  led  him  much  among  the  savage  nations  of  the  North 
west,  and  around  the  great  lakes.     He  went  first  among  them  isi 
company  with  the  exploring  and  trading  parties   of  the  North 
West  Company,  but  fearing  to  be  involved  in  the   consequences 
of  their  quarrels,  ho  abandoned  their  protection,  and  threw  him- 
self, alone  and  unprotected,  upon  the  generosity  of  the  aborigines. 
lie  pursued  his  toilfome  rese;irches,  mouth  after   month,    travel- 
ling on  foot,  relying  often  on  the  Indians  for  support,   and,  of 
course  experiencing  frequently  the  hunger,  exposure,  and  penis 
of  savage  life.     But  such  was  the  etithusiasm  of  his  mind,  and  his 
complete  devotion  to  the  ruling  passion^  tliat  he  thought  little  of 
msirching  day  after  day,  often  with  a  pack  weighing  sixty  pounds 
on  his  shoulders,  through  forests  and  swamps,  and  over  rocks  and 
mountains,  prwvided  he  could  discovers  new  plant;  gre:it  numbers 
of  such  he  assured  me  he  had  found,  and  that  he  intended  to  pub- 
lish the  drawings  and  descriptions  of  them  in  his  Canadian  Flora. 
FVoni  the  Indians,  he  said,  he  experienced  nothing  but  kindness, 
and  he  often  derived  from  them  important  assistance  ;  he  thought 
that  had  they  been  treated  witli  uniformju«/ice  and  humanity  by 

e  returned  the  same  treatment . 


f 


A 


r 


\ 


I! 


whites 


lys , 


I 


i 


352    TOUR    BEtVVEEN    HARTPORD    AND    qUEBfiC. 

and  calashes,  besides  people  and  cattle,  other  thaa 
thos?  belonging  to  these  vehicles.  We  crossed 
lower  down,  and  in  deeper  watef",  than  we  had  pass- 
ed in  the  canoe. 

The  view  of  the  town  when  we  were  receding, 
as  well  as  when  we  were  advancing,  was  ver^ 
fine.  It  strelches  about  two  miles  along  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  it  scarcely  equals  half  a  mile  in 
breadth.  The  bank  of  the  river  is  considerably  el- 
evated, and  the  ground,  although  not  very  uneven, 
rises  gradually  from  the  water,  into  a  moderate 
ridge — then  sinks  into  a  hollow,  and  then  rises  again, 
with  more  rapidity,  till  it  finishes,  less  than  a    mile 


He  said  he  much  preferred  their  protection  to  that  of  the  wan* 
dering  whites,  who,  unrestrained  by  almost  any  human  law, 
prowl  through  those  immense  forests  in  quest  of  furs  and  game. 
Possibly  (without  however,  intending  any  thing  disrespectful  by 
the  remark,)  some  mutual  sympathies  might  have  been  excited, 
by  the  fact  that  Mr.  Pursh  was  himself  a  Tartar,  born  and  edu- 
cated in  Siberia,  near  Toboltski  ;  and  indeed,  he  possessed  a 
physiognomy  and  manner  different  from  that  of  Europeans,  and 
highly  characteristic  of  his  country. 

His  conversation  was  full  oi  fire,  point  and  energy  ;  and  al- 
though not  polished,  he  was  good  humoured,  frank,  and  generous . 
He  complained  that  he  could  not  endure  the  habits  of  civilized 
life,  and  that  his  health  began  to  be  impaired  as  soon  as  he  be* 
came  quiet,  and  was  comfortably  fed  and  lodged.  He  said  he 
must  soon  '^^  be  off  again"  into  the  wilderness.  His  health  was  then 
declining,  and  unfortunately  it  was  but  too  apparent,  that  some 
of  the  nieasmes  to  which  he  resorted  to  sustain  it,  must  eventu- 
ua!  y  postrate  his  remaining  vigour. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  his  utifmis'hed  labours  will  not  be  lost 
and  that  although  incomplete,  they  may  be  published  ;  since,  if, 
sui&ciently  matured,  they  must  add  to  the  stock  of  knowledge. 


k^    \ 


NO    QUEBEC. 

cattle,  other  than 
s.  We  crossed 
bian  we  had  pass- 

;  were  receding, 
icing,  was  verj 
les  along  the  St. 
i  half  a  mile  in 
considerably  el- 
lot  very  uneven, 
into  a  moderate 
1  then  rises  again, 
less  than  a    mile 

n  to  that  of  the  wan- 
)St  any  human  law, 
Bt  of  furs  ami  game, 
ling;  disrespectful  by 
have  been  excited, 
rfar,  born  and  edu- 
Ae.ed,  he  possessed  a 
:  of  Europeans,  and 

id  energy  ;  and  al- 

frank,  and  generous . 

e  habits  of  civilized 

as  soon  as  he   be- 

edged.     He  said  he 

His  health  was  then 

apparent,  that  some 
in  it,  must  eventu- 

will  not  be  lest 
)ublished  ;  since,  if, 
k  of  koowledge. 


J#Vl 


V 


'HOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND  (QUEBEC.    353 

and  a  half  from  the  town,  in  one  of  the  finest  hills 
that  can  be  imagined.  This  hill  is  called  the  mdun- 
tain  of  Montreal,  and  indeed,  from  it,  the  town  de- 
rives its  name ;  the  words  originally  signified,  as  is 
said,  the  Royal  Mountain.  This  mountain  rises 
five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river. 

It  forms  a  steep  and  verdant  barrier,  covered  with 
shrubbery,  and  crowned  with  trees,  and  is  a  most 
beautiful  back  ground  for  the  city. 

Its  form,  as  it  appears  f  the  river,  is  nearly 
that  of  a  bow.  We  rode  up,  across  the  southern 
end  of  it,  behind  the  beautiful  seat  of  the  Hon.  Mr. 
McGillivray.  I  afterwards  ascended  it  on  foot,  in 
company  with  an  English  gentleman,  and  walked 
the  length  of  its  ridge.  The  view  is  one  of  the  fin- 
est that  can  be  seen  in  any  country.  Immediately 
at  our  feet  the  city  of  Montreal  is  in  full  view,  with 
its  dazzling  tin  covered  roofs,  and  spires,  and  its 
crowded  streets ;  the  noble  St.  Lawrence,  stretch- 
ing away  to  the  right  and  left,  is  visible,  probably  for 
fifty  miles,  and,  on  both  sides  of  it,  and  for  a  very 
great  width,  particularly  on  the  south,  one  of  the 
most  luxuriant  champaign  countries  in  the  world,  is 
spread  before  the  observer.  The  mountains  of 
Belaeil,  Chambly,  and  a  few  others,  occur  upon  this 
vast  plain,  but,  in  general,  it  is  uninterrupted,  till  it 
reaches  the  territories  of  the  United  States,  in 
which  we  discern  the  mountains  of  Vermont  and 
New-York. 


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354  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

In  our  rear,  we  saw  the  Ottawa  or  Grand  river, 
and  its  braaches,  which,  uniting,  and  becoming 
blended  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  divide  the  island  of 
Montreal  from  the  main. 

Nothing  is  wanting,  to  render  the  mountain  of 
Montreal  a  charming  place  for  pedestrian  excur- 
sions, and  for  rural  parties,  but  a  little  effort,  and 
expense  in  cutting  and  clearing  winding  walks,  and 
in  removing  a  few  trees  from  the  principal  points  of 
view,  (as  they  now  form  a  very  great  obstruction;) 
a  lodge,  or  resting  place,  on  the  mountain,  con- 
structed so  as  to  be  ornamental,  would  also  be  a 
desirable  addition. 

On  the  front  declivity  of  the  mountain,  is  a  beau- 
tiful cylinder  of  lime  stone,  or  gray  marble,  erected 
on  a  pedestal;  the  entire  height  of  both  appeared 
to  be  about  thirty-five  feet.  It  rises  from  among 
the  trees,  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  and  is  a  mon- 
ument to  the  memory  of  Simon  IVlcTavish,  Esq. 
who  died  about  fourteen  years  since,  and  was,  in 
a  sense,  the  founder  of  the  North  Western  Compa- 
ny. Just  below,  is  a  handsome  mausoleum,  of  the 
same  materials,  containing  his  remains;  and,  still 
lower  down  the  mountain,  an  unfinished  edifice  of 
stone,  erected  by  the  same  gentleman,  which,  had 
he  lived  to  complete  it,  would  have  been  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  vicinity  of  Montreal.  It  is  now  fast 
bc(:on:ing  a  ru'n,  although  it  is  inclosed  and  roofed 
in,  and  the  windows  are  built  up  with  masonry. 
It  would  have  been  a  superb  house,  if  finished  nr 
cording  to  the  original  plan. 


I- 


JEBEC. 

rand  river, 

becoming 

le  island  of 

nountain  ot 
rian  excur- 
eflfort,  and 
walks,  and 
lal  points  of 
)struction ;) 
intain,  con- 
d  also  be  a 

I,  is  a  beau- 
jle,  erected 
\i  appeared 
ronn  among 
I  is  a  mon> 
avish,  Esq. 
ind  was,  in 
jrn  Compa- 
eum,  of  the 
i;  and,  still 
}d  edifice  of 
which,  had 
n  one  of  the 
is  now  fast 
I  and  roofed 
h  masonry, 
finished  ar- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORO    AND    QUEBEC.    355 

GEOLOGY  AND  MINERALOGY. 

The  mineralogy  and  geology  of  this  mountain, 
and  of  the  i;»land,  I  could  wish  to  see  thoroughly  in- 
vestigated, as  they  appear  to  be  interesting ;  the  few 
facts  wh'rh  I  had  it  in  my  power  to  observe,  were 
as  follows :  The  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
particularly  at  the  race  course,  is  compact,  black 
lime  stone,  fetid,  and  containing  organized  remains; 
its  stratification  is  regular,  and  its  position  flat ;  it 
forms  one  of  the  most  common  building  stones  in 
Montreal.  This  rock  seems  to  prevail  halfway  up 
the  mountain,  and  is  followed,  by  what  appeared 
to  me,  a  hard,  probably  a  siliceous  slate,  intersect- 
ed by  veins  of  trap.  Higher  up  still,  and  on  the 
northeastern  end  particularly,  is  a  rock,  inclined 
at  an  angle  of  45°,  which  seemed  to  be  a  decom- 
posed lime  stone,  of  a  light  gray  colour,  and  friable 
texture,  at  least  where  it  was  exposed  to  the  weath- 
er. 

The  very  summit  of  the  mountain,  is  a  horn- 
blende rock,  highly  crystalline  in  its  structure,  and 
containing  distinct  crystals  of  boHi  hornblende  and 
nugite.  It  is  a  striking  example  of  the  parasytical 
character  of  the  hornblende  and  trap  rocks,  follow- 
ing no  regular  order  of  succession,  but  occasionally 
forming  caps  and  ridges,  on  all  sorts  of  rocks  and 
mountains. 

There  is  found  also  on  the  island,  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  town,  a  lime  stone,  of  a  smoke  gray. 


#f 


*      li 


f 


356  TOUft   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND   QUEBEC. 

highly  crystallJDe  in  its  structure,  nearly,  or  quite  as 
much  so  as  the  decidedly  primitive  marbles ;  when 
broken,  it  presents  numerous  and  brilliant  crystal- 
line plates,  and  this  is,  in  fact,  almost  exclusively 
its  structure. 

Still,  it  contains  numerous  shells,  and  other  or- 
ganized remains,  of  which  the  impressions  and 
forms  are  very  distinct.  Shells,  and  organized  re- 
mains, in  a  highly  crystallized  lime  stone!  Is  it 
transition  line  stone.  Just  on  the  verge  of  becoming 
primitive  ?  I  had  no  time  to  visit  the  place  whence 
it  comes,  but,  in  the  piles  of  stone,  about  to  be  used 
in  building,  in  the  town,  I  observed  this  cryt^tallized 
lime  stone  (and  that  in  vast  blocks,  showing  the 
stratification,  and  evincing  that  it  was  not  acciden- 
tal) actually  united  into  one  piece,  with  the  black 
compact  kind,  like  the  hone  slates,  of  different 
colours,  which  are  often  exposed  for  sale. 

In  other  pieces,  I  saw  fragments  of  the  black 
compact  kind,  mixed  with  the  crystallized;  and 
some  lai^e  blocks  of  the  latter  were  terminated  by 
a  black  uneven  surface,  probably  showing  the  line 
of  connexion  with  the  black  kind.* 

1  have  not  seen  enough  of  the  vicinity  of  Mont- 
real, to  venture  to  pronounce,  confidently,  concern- 
ing its  geological  classification ;  it  would  appear, 
however,  that  it  is  partly  a  transition,  but  princi- 

*  I  thence  infer,  that  they  oocur  together,  in  immediate  oea- 
nexion,  and  probably  the  black  compact  kind  will  be  found  to  lie 
upoD  the  other. 


tUEBEC. 

^,  or  quite  as 
rbles ;  when 
liant  crystal- 
exclusively 

nd  other  or- 
ressions  and 
rganized  re- 
stone  !  Is  it 
of  becoming 
lace  whence 
ut  to  be  used 
i  cryt^taliized 
showing  the 
not  acciden- 
th  the  black 
of  different 
le. 

>f  the  black 
lUized;  and 
iminated  by 
ring  the  line 

ity  of  Mont- 
ly, concern- 
mid  appear, 
but  princi- 

immcdiate  ooB- 
be  fouud  to  lie 


Tdm  HtTWEEN    HARTFOUU    AND    t^UCnEC.    357 

pally  a  secondary  region.  I  saw  no  proof  that  any 
part  of  it  is  primitive,  and  cannot  but  wonder  at 
the  opinion  entertained,  as  I  am  told,  by  many  per- 
sons in  Montreal,  that  the  gray  crystallized  lime 
stone  is  granite.     I  saw  no  granite  on  the  island. 


MODE  OF  BUILDING  IN  MONTREAL. 

Montreal  has  much  the  appearance  of  an  Euro- 
pean town,  particularly  of  a  continental  one.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  except  some  of  the  new  ones  ^ 
the  principal  ones,  are  those  parallel  to  the  river, 
of  which  those  of  St.  Paul,  which  is  a  bustling  street 
of  business,  near  the  river,  and  Notre  Dame  street 
on  higher  ground,  and  mo^c  quiet,  more  genteel, 
and  better  built,  are  the  principal;  the  latter  street 
is  th  rty  feet  wide,  and  three  fourths  of  a  mile  long. 
A  few  of  those  which  intersect  the  above  streets  at 
right  angles,  are  also  considerable.  The  town  has 
a  crowded  active  population,  and  many  strangers, 
and  persons  from  the  country,  augment  the  activity 
in  its  streets. 

But  the  circumstance  which  assimilates  it  most 
to  a  continental  European  town,  is  its  being  built 
of  stone.  People  from  the  United  States,  are  apt 
to  consider  Montreal  as  gloomy,  and,  I  presume  it 
arises  from  the  fact,  of  its  being  built  of  stone,  and 
principally  in  an  antique  fashion.  The  former  ig 
however,  in  reahtv,  a  strong  ground  of  preference 

31 


fe  'X   . 


( 


;i„ 


i     H 


t   ' 


\ 


358  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEREC 


Ir  ) 


•  -If 


^1  I 


S 


I        I 


over  our  cities,  built  of  wood  and  brick,  Stone  is 
the  best  material  of  which  houses  can  be  construct- 
ed; if  properly  built,  they  are  not  damp  in  the 
least ;  they  exclude  both  heat  and  cold,  better  than 
any  other  houses ;  they  will  not  burn,*  except  in 
part,  and  scarcely  need  repair,  and  they  are  easily 
made  beautiful.  Indeed,  no  other  material  pos- 
sesses sufficient  dignity  for  expensive  public  edifi- 
ces; and  we  were  sorry  to  see  even  a  few  private 
houses,  in  the  suburbs  of  Montreal,  built  of  brick, 
in  the  Anglo-American  style. 

I  was,  I  confess,  much  gratified  at  entering,  for 
the  first  time,  an  American  city,  built  of  stone.  The 
inhabitants  of  Montit'eal  possess  a  very  fine  building 
stone  in  the  gray  lime  stone  already  mentioned  ;  it 
is  as  handsome,  when  properly  dressed,  as  the  cel- 
ebrated Portland  stone  of  England,  and  it  is  much 
superior  to  it  in  durability.  A  number  of  the  mod- 
ern houses  of  Montreal,  and  of  its  environs,  which 
are  constructed  of  this  stone,  handsomely  hewn,  are 
very  beautiful,  and  would  be  ornaments  to  the  city 
of  London,  or  to  Westminster  itself. 

Many  of  the  houses  are  constructed  of  rough 
(■tone,  coarsely  pointed,  or  daubed  with  mortar,  and 
have  certainly  an  unsightly  appearance ;  others, 
here,  as  well  as  at  Quebec,  and  elsewhere  in  Cana- 
da, are  covered  with  a  rough  cement,  and  look  rude- 
ly ;  it  is  perfectly  easy  to  make  both  these  kinds  of 


*'  An  advantage,  which  they  obviously  po«aci>  ia  commoa  witii 
trick. 


Stone  id 
construct- 
ip  in  the 
etler  than 
except  in 
are  easily 
terial  pos- 
biic  edifi- 
w  private 
t  of  brick, 


ering, 


for 
one.  The 
e  building 
tioncd  ;  it 
IS  the  eel- 
it  is  much 
the  mod- 
3ns,  which 
hewn,  are 
to  the  city 

of  rough 
lortar,  and 
e ;  others, 
c  in  Cana- 
look  rude- 
e  kinds  of 

;ommoQ  witii 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC.    35ii 

houses  handsome,  as  well  as  durable,  as  is  seen  in 
particular  instances  in  Canada. 

Many  of  the  houses,  stores,  and  ware-houses, 
in  Montreal,  have  iron  plate  doors,  and  window 
shutters,  fortified  by  iron  frames ;  this  is  obviously 
a  precaution  against  fire,  as  well  as  robbery,  and 
the  tin  coverings  and  the  roofs  of  the  buildings,  are 
intended  as  a  protection  against  the  former. 

The  tin  is  put  on  in  an  oblique  direction  to  the 
cornice  and  ridge ;  the  nails  are  covered  from  view, 
and  from  the  weather,  by  doubling  the  tin  over  the 
heads  of  the  nails,  and  the  different  rows  of  tin 
sheets  are  made  to  lap  in  the  manner  of  shingles. 
It  is  by  no  means  an  easy  thing,  to  put  on  a  tin 
roof,  so  as  to  be  both  handsome  and  durable. 

Montreal  is  certainly  a  fine  town  of  its  kind,  and 
it  were  much  to  be  wished  that  the  people  of  the 
United  States  would  imitate  the  Canadians,  by  con- 
structing their  houses,  wherever  practicable,  of 
f-tone. 


ENVIRONS. 

The  environs  of  Montreal  are  beautiful,  but,  al- 
though considerably  cultivated  and  improved,  they 
are  far  from  being  brought  to  the  state  of  which 
they  are  capable. 

A  number  of  handsome  villas  now  make  their  ap- 
pearance around  the  town,  and  there  are  numerous 


I  ^  i 


:t 


{ 


U 


-  i 


II 


r 


♦.    ' 


360   TOUR  UETUEEN    llAKTFOUD  AND   QIJEHEC. 

sites,  Still  unoccupied,  which  will  probably  be  here- 
after crowned  with  elegant  seats.  Few  places  in 
the  world  possess  more  capabilities  of  this  kind  than 
Quebec  and  Montreal;  if  the  latter  is  less  bold  than 
the  former,  in  its  scenery,  it  possesses  much  rich- 
ness, and  delicate  beauty,  which  need  nothing  but 
wealth  and  taste  to  display  them  to  advantage ;  the 
former  already  exists  in  Montreal  to  a  great  extent, 
and  there  are  also  very  respectable  proofs  of  the 
existence  and  growth  of  the  latter. 


RACE  COURSE  AND  RACING. 


\' 


Near  the  city  of  Montreal,  there  is  a  race  course, 
a  circuit  of  about  two  miles.  It  happened  that  we 
were  at  this  place  at  the  time  of  the  races,  and  in  a 
ride  around  the  environs,  we  came  across  the 
ground  at  the  time  when  the  horses  were  about 
starting.  The  subject  seemed  to  excite  a  good  deal 
of  interest  in  the  community.  In  the  steam  boat 
on  Lake  Champlain,  Canadians,  anticipating  the 
sports  of  the  ensuing  week,  were  much  occupied  in 
discussing  the  merits  of  the  different  horses,  and  in 
predicting  the  results* 

The  same  topic  was  the  ruling  one  at  the  public 
houses,  and  upon  the  turf,  where  we  found  both  the 
gentry  and  the  common  people  of  Montreal  The 
latter  were  on  foot,  and  the  former  were  either  on 
horseback,  or  with  elegant  equipages,  of  which  this 


BHEC. 

ly  be  here- 
'  places  in 
}  kind  than 
i  bold  than 
[luch  rich- 
lothing  but 
ntage;  the 
eat  extent, 
ofs  of  the 


ice  course, 
ed  that  we 
;,  and  in  a 
icross  the 
'ere  about 
good  deal 
team  boat 
pating  the 
ccupied  in 
ses,  and  in 

the  public 
d  both  the 
eal  The 
either  on 
which  this 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  361 

city  affords  a  few.  Their  number  appears  not  to 
be  proportioned  to  the  weahh  of  the  place,  for  the 
obvious  reason,  that,  from  the  nature  of  the  coun- 
try, water  conveyance  is  principally  used  in  travel- 
ling. Ladies  were  present  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  all  were  intent,  while  the  judges  mounted  the 
stage — the  horses  were  led  forth,  and  the  riders,  in 
leather  breeches,  silk  party  colored  jackets,  and 
jockey  caps,  mounted,  and  darted  away  at  the  ap- 
pointed signal. 

Three  times  they  coursed  around  the  appointed 
circle,  and  twice,  at  least,  must  a  horse  come  out 
ahead  of  his  competitors,  before  the  prize  is  won. 

It  was,  in  the  present  instance,  obtained  by  a 
horse,  famous,  it  seems,  on  this  ground,  for  distan- 
cing all  his  compeers.  His  name  \s  Democrat,  and 
thus  it  has  grown  into  a  proverb,  that  Democrat  beatb 
every  thing  in  Canada. 

At  Quebec  there  is  also  a  race  course,  and  races 
were  held  the  day  that  we  arrived.  The  course  is 
on  the  venerable  plains  of  Abraham,  where  we  saw 
the  ground,  exhibiting  marks  o(hu'.  .ig  been  recent- 
ly trod.  How  different  a  strife  from  that  between 
contending  armies!  Who  would  not  wish  to  pre- 
serve these  classical  plains  from  such  a  degradation. 


IMPORTANCE  OF  MONTREAL. 

The  point  which  connects  the  ocean,  and,  of 
course,  Europe,  and  the  rest  of  the  world,  with  the 

31* 


f', 


*♦ 


V 


^y 


h        * 


302  TOUR  HETWEEN  HARTFOUD  AND  QUEBEC. 

countries  bordering  on  the  vast  lakes  of  this  conti- 
nent, and  upon  the  various  rivers  which  empty  into 
them,  cannot  be  otherwise  than  important.  This  is 
precisely  the  situation  of  Montreal,  and  its  location 
certainly  evinces  great  good  judgment  on  the  part 
of  Jaques  Cartier,  who,  in  1635  or  36,  first  sailed 
thus  far  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  fixed  upon 
this  place  as  the  site  for  a  town.  It  was  then  occu- 
pied by  an  Indian  village.  The  city  was  begun  in 
1640,  by  a  few  houses,  compactly  built,  and  was 
originally  called  Ville  Marie.  There  seems,  how- 
ever, to  have  been  one  error  in  selecting  the  place 
of  the  future  city.  It  was  meant  to  be  at  the  head 
of  navigation  ;  it  is  literally  so ;  and  ships*  can  go 
up  to  the  very  city,  although  it  is  not  usual  to  do  it 
with  vessels  of  more  than  an  hundred  and  fifty 
tons.  Vessels  drawing  fifteen  feet  of  water  can 
lie  at  Market  gate,  high  up  in  this  city  ;  the  general 
depth  of  water  in  the  harbor  is  from  three  to  four 
and  a  half  fathoms.  Unfortunately,  however,  the 
rapid  of  St.  Mary,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  town, 
or  rather,  near  one  of  its  suburbs,  is  so  powerful  an 
obstacle,  that  nothing  but  a  very  strong  wind  will 
force  a  vessel  through,  when  not  impelled  by  any 
other  power. 

Ships  are  sometimes  detamed  here  for  weeks,  on- 
ly two  miles  below  where  they  are  to  deliver  their 
freight;  a  canal  is  contemplated,  to  enable  river 
craft  to  convey  freight  around  the  rapid. 


* 


*^  It  is  said  even  of  six  hundreil  tons. 


i  -' 

i"^' 
t, 


UEBEC. 

this  conti- 

empty  into 

ht.     This  is 

its  location 

on  the  part 

first  sailed 

fixed  upon 

then  occu- 

as  begun  in 

It,  and  was 

eems,  how- 

ig  the  place 

at  the  head 

ips*  can  go 

Bual  to  do  it 

d   and  fifty 

f  water  can 

the  general 

hree  to  four 

owever,  the 

)f  the  town, 

powerful  an 

ig  wind  will 

lied  by  any 

•  weeks,  on- 
leliver  their 
jnable  rirer 


TOUR    BETWEEV    HARTFORD  XSTi    QUERCC    363 

This  id  the  rapid  where  the  steam  boats  are  some- 
times obliged  to  anchor,  and  procure  the  aid  of  oxen. 
It  would  appear  (hat  the  town  should  have  been  built 
at  this  place,  or  a  little  below,  and  then  the  incon- 
venience would  have  been  avoided.  But  as  the 
buildings  do  now,  in  factj  extend  to  this  place,  it 
would  be  easy  to  establish  a  port  here,  and  it  will 
doubtless  be  done  in  time ;  it  would,  however, 
greatly  forward  the  object,  if  a  few  spirited  individ- 
uals would  begin,  by  erecting  stores  and  wharves, 
and  it  would  be  easy  to  have  the  steam  boats  stop 
there;  easy  I  mean,  as  to  every  thing  but  the  rival 
local  interests  which  are  usually  in  such  cases  array- 
ed against  projected  improvements.  There  are  few 
cities  in  the  world,  especially  of  the  magnitude  and 
importance  of  Montreal,  which,  situated  more  than 
five  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  the  ocean,  can 
still  enjoy  the  benefit  of  a  direct  ship  communica- 
tion with  it. 

Montreal  is  evidently  one  of  the  three  great  chan- 
nels by  which  the  trade  of  North  America  will  be 
principally  carried  on.  It  is  obvious  thnt  New-York 
and  New-Orleans  are  the  other  two  places,  and  it 
is  of  little  consequence  that  other  cities  may  engross 
a  considerable  share  of  trade,  or  that,  by  canals  and 
other  internal  improvements,  smaller  rills  of  com- 
merce may  be  made  to  flow  towards  one  city  or 
another.  The  great  natural  basins  and  water 
courses,  and  mountain  ranges  of  this  continent,  will 
istill  control  the  course  of  trade,  and  direct  its  most 


n 


•i  ( 


I 


m;    r 


364  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 

gisrantic  currents  towards  these  three  towns,  one  ot 
which  is  already  a  great  and  noble  city,  and  the 
two  olhors  are  advancing  with  great  rapidity.  The 
sickly  i.liinatfi  of  New-Orleans  will  somewhat  re- 
tard its  growlh,  but  will  not  prevent  it ;  Montreal 
enjoys  a  climate  extremely  favorable  to  health,  but 
it  is  locked  up  by  ice  four  or  five  months  in  the 
year.  The  carriole,  however,  triumphs  over  the 
ice,  and  the  Canadian,  when  he  can  no  longer  push 
or  paddle  his  canoe  on  the  waters  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, gaily  careers  over  its  frost-bound  surface, 
and  well  wrapped  in  woollen  and  in  furs,  defies 
the  severity  of  winter. 

In  1815,  Colonel  Bouchette  stated  the  popula- 
tion of  Montreal  at  fifteen  thousand ;  no  one  now 
rates  it,  including  the  suburbs,  at  less  than  twenty 
thonsand,  and  one  intelligent  inhabitant  gave  it  as 
his  opinion,  that  the  population  must,  at  present, 
equal  twenty-five  thousand ;  perhaps  the  middle 
number  is  nearest  to  the  truth. 

Montreal  has  many  good,  respectable  institutions, 
most  of  which  are,  however,  French  establishments, 
dating  their  origin  under  the  French  dominion, 
now  sixty  years  extinct  in  this  country.  I  must 
refer  for  an  account  of  them,  as  well  as  of  those  at 
Quebec,  to  Colonel  Bouchette's  work,  which  ought 
to  be  perused  by  every  person  who  won  id  obtain  a 
competent  knowledge  of  the  Canadas.  I  shall 
presently  quote  from  him  the  dimensions  and  ex- 
tent of  some  of  the  most  important  public  institu- 
tions of  Montreal. 


k  ' 


^JLI^itJ^^  .    .  '*ac 


EBEC. 

J^ns,  one  of 
y,  and  the 
idity.  The 
nevrhat  re- 
Montreal 
health,  but 
ths  in  the 
8  over  the 
>nger  push 
St.  Law- 
id  surface, 
urs,  defies 

>e  popuia- 
o  one  now 
lan  twenty 
gave  it  as 
it  present, 
le  middle 

istitutions, 

lishments, 

dominion, 

I   must 

f those  at 

ich  ought 

'  obtain  a 

1   shall 

and  ex- 

c  institu- 


roim    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    366 

The  colleges  or  seminaries  of  Quebec,  and  of 
Montreal,  are  considered  as  very  useful  institutions, 
and  the  French  is  the  colloquial  tongue  in  both. — 
A  gentleman  of  New-York,  who  came  on  with 
U8  in  the  steam  boat  down  Lake  Champlain, 
brought  three  boys  with  him — two  of  them  his  own 
children,  and  placed  them  at  the  seminary  in  Mon- 
treal. This  institution  is  said  to  contain  two  or 
three  hundred  members;  both  here  and  at  Que- 
bec, they  are  distinguished  by  a  peculiar  costume 
— a  blue  surtout,  the  seams  of  which  are  all 
ornamented  with  a  white  cord,  and  they  are 
confined  both  summer  and  winter,  by  a  large 
sash  or  belt,  doubled  around  the  body,  and  tied 
in  a  knot.  It  is  of  woollen,  and  of  many  colors, 
and  gives  them  something  of  a  military  air.  In 
winter,  this  appendage  must  be  useful,  (but  in  sum- 
mer, and  the  Canadian  heat  is  very  intense,)  it 
must  be  oppressive  if  not  injurious.  Among  the 
youths  whom  we  saw  in  the  strectis,  in  the  academ- 
ic uniform,  were  some  who  were  almost  men,  and 
others  who  appeared  to  have  hardly  escaped  from 
the  nursery.  The  morals  of  the  boys  are  said  to 
be  very  carefully  watched,  and  the  expenses  to  be 
very  moderate  —  two  points  in  which  they  are  cer- 
tainly very  worthy  of  imitation. 

1  did  not  go  into  the  college  buildings,  but  their 
exterior,  which  1  saw,  is  rude,  and  the  building  is 
ancient.  They  have  a  fine  garden  and  buildings 
without  the  city,  besides  those  that  are  within. 


!) 


.iV 


*i 


^l 


PI 

1 

I 


r  4 


366  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUEBCC. 


,f- 


The  nunneries  both  here  and  at  Quebec,  arc 
maintained  in  all  their  pristine  dignity.  We  were 
too  much  occupied  at  Quebec,  to  see  the  nunneries 
even  in  the  Umited  manner  in  which  they  are  shown, 
and  at  Montreal  they  are  open,  in  a  restricted  sense, 
on  Thursday  only;  this  happened,  unfortunately, 
to  be  the  only  day  in  the  week  which  we  did  not 
spend  there.  1  went,  however,  into  the  Court  yard 
of  one  of  the  principal  nunneries,  and  saw  one  of 
the  aged  sisters  with  her  veil  lifted  up ;  she  was 
busily  occupied  in  feeding  chickens. 

In  the  institutions  called  Hotel  Dieu,  both  at 
Quebec  and  at  Montreal,  and  in  other  hospitals,  the 
nuns  attend  on  sick  and  distressed  persons,  without 
regard  to  any  distinctions,  whether  of  religion  or 
otherwise ;  and  their  humanity,  disinteredness,  and 
skilful  kindness  are  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms 
of  approbation.  An  opulent  and  highly  respectable 
citizen,  of  Montreal,  formerly  from  Massachusetts, 
said  to  us,  "I  shall  always  think  highly  of  the  nuns, 
and  feel  very  grateful  to  them  ;  for  when  1  first 
came  to  Montreal,  poor  and  friendless,  and  became 
sick,  I  committed  myself  to  the  care  of  the  nuns  in 
one  of  the  hospitals,  and  there  I  received,  for  months, 
all  the  kindness  of  mothers  and  of  sisters,  till  1  was 
restored  to  health." 

Perhaps  we  ought  not  to  censure  with  too  much 
severity,  the  establishment  of,  here  and  there,  an 
institution,  where  the  unhappy,  the  bereaved  and 
even  the  deserted  and  betrayed,  especially  when 


EBEC. 


TOUR   BETWERN    HARTFORD    AND  ^UEBEr.    367 


lebec,  are 
We  were 
nunneries 
ire  shown, 
:ted  sense, 
^rtunately, 
^e  did  not 
Uourt  yard 
;aw  one  of 
;  she  was 

I,  both  at 
spitals,  the 
is,  without 
religion  or 
dness,  and 
hest  terms 
cspectable 
sachusetts, 
ftlie  nuns, 
en  1  first 
id  became 
he  nuns  in 
ar  months, 
till  1  was 

too  much 

there,  an 

:aved  and 

illy  when 


they  are  persons  distinguished  by  meritorious  pe- 
culiarities of  character  or  situation,  may  find  at  least 
a  temporary  shelter  from  the  gize  of  an  unfeeling 
world ;  but  it  certainly  is  wrong,  to  make  the  de- 
sertion of  the  most  interestin;^  and  important  social 
relations  a  religious  duty.  It  is  however,  a  pleasing 
alleviation  to  find  that  any  such  persons  make  some 
amends  to  societ}  for  their  dereliction  of  its  common 
duties  and  interests,  by  the  gratuitous  performance 
of  difficult  and  painful  offices  of  humanity. 

Montreal  has  a  number  of  good  public  buildings. 
Besides  the  large  Catholic  and  English  Cathedrals, 
and  other  churches,  there  are,  the  Court  House, 
which  is  one  hundred  and  forty-four  feet  long,  the 
Jail  and  the  Banks,  and  various  other  public  build- 
ings which  do  honour  to  the  town.  The  Court 
House,  Jail  and  English  Cathedral  particularly  are 
modern,  and  very  lai^e  and  handsome  buildings, 
constructed  of  the  gray  limestone,  hewn  and  laid  up 
with  neatness  and  skill. 

The  monument  to  Lord  Nelson,  in  the  principal 
market  place,  would  grace  any  of  the  squares  of 
London.  A  figure  of  his  lordship,  crowns  a  high 
column*  of  the  gray  limestone,  which  is  sustained 
by  a  large  pedestal  on  the  sides  of  which  are  ex- 
hibited in  alto  relievo,  the  principal  achievements 
of  nis  lordship^s  life  and  an  appropriate  inscription, 
containing  his  last  and  very  memorable  public  or- 

•  I  have  not  heard  its  height  mentioned,  but  should  imagine  it 
may  be  forty  feet. 


n 


1      y 


363    TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  QUEBEC. 

ders  to  the  squadron  before  the  battle  of  Trafalgar. 
"England  expects  thatevery  man  will  do  his  duty." 


() 


MISCELLANEOUS  REMARKS  ON  MONTREAL. 

This  city  is  in  latitude  45°  31'  north,  and  in  lon- 
gitude 73°  35'  west  from  Greenwich.  It  covers 
one  thousand  and  twenty  acres — what  was  within  the 
old  fortification  was  only  one  hundred  acres.  Its  cli- 
mate is  very  considerably  milder  than  thatof  Quebec, 
and  most  persons  would  probably  consider  it  as  a  more 
desirable  residence.  In  regard  to  accommodations,  it 
is  so  to  a  stranger,  who  will  look  in  vain,  in  Que- 
bec, for  an  establishment  equal  to  the  Mansion 
House.  He  will  find  indeed,  in  Quebec,  a  good 
table,  but  there  are  deficiencies  on  other  topics,  to 
which  an  American,  from  the  United  States,  and 
still  more  perhaps,  an  Englishman,  will  not  easily 
be  reconciled. 

The  following  facts,*  as  to  the  extent  of  some  of 
the  public  establishments  of  Montreal,  may  be  of 
some  use,  towards  a  correct  estimation  of  the  pub- 
lic spirit  of  the  country,  especially  of  that  which 
prevailed  under  the  French  dominion. 

The  Hotel  Dieu,  founded  in  1644,  is  three  hun- 

^    dred  and  twenty-four  feet  in  front,  by  four  hundred 

and  sixty-eight  deep  j  it  is  attended  by  thirty-six 

nuns,  who  administer  to  the  sick  and  diseased  of 

both  sexes. 

*  Bouchetle. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  369 

The  Convent  of  La  Congregation  de  Notre 
Dame,  forms  a  range  of  buildings,  two  hundred  and 
thirty-four  feet  in  front,  by  four  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  ;  the  object  of  this  institution  is  female  in- 
struction. 

The  general  hospital  or  convent  of  the  gray  sis- 
ters, was  founded  in  1750:  it  occupies  a  space 
along  the  little  river,  St.  Pierre,  of  six  hundred  and 
seventy-eight  feet,  and  is  a  refuge  for  the  infirm 
poor  and  invalids. 

The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame,  is  one  hundred 
and  forty-four  feet  by  ninety-four;  this  church  we 
thought,  in  some  respect?,  more  splendid  in  the  in- 
terior, but  less  grand,  than  that  at  Quebec.  It  con- 
tains, among  other  things,  a  gigantic  wooden  image 
of  the  Saviour  on  the  cross.  The  Cathedral  stands 
completely  in  the  street  of  Notre  Dame,  acro^is  the 
place  d'armes,  and  entirely  obstructs  the  view  up 
and  down  the  street.  This  church  is  on  the  out- 
side rude  and  unsightly. 

The  English  Cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in 
Montreal — its  tower,  which  is  unfinished,  is  still  in 
progress;  this  church  is  very  large,  but  I  did  not 
learn  its  dimensions.  Those  whum  we  saw  attend- 
ing worship  in  it,  were  persons  of  very  genteel  ap- 
pearance, including  many  military  men,  but  the 
•:hurch  would  have  held  ten  times  as  many  as  were 
present. 

The    seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  occupies   three 
sides  of  a  square  and  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
32 


1. 


I   >1 


*?      I 


i 


I 


f,-. 


370    TOUH  BETWEEN   HAKTPOltl)   AND    QUEBEC:. 


»-^ 


feet  by  ninety,  with  spacious  gardens.  It  was 
ibunded  about  1657.  ' 

Ti»e  new  College  or  Petit  Seminaire,  is  in  the 
Recollet  suburbs  ;  it  is  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  by 
forty-tive,  with  a  wing  at  each  end  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty-six  (eet  by  forty-five;  it  is  an  appendage 
•f  the  other  seminary,  and  designed  to  extend  its 
aseftdness,  by  enlarging  its  accommodations. 

There  is  near  the  mountain  of  Montreal,  another 
appendage  of  the  seminary.  It  appears  to  be  about 
a  mile  from  the  town — it  is  a  considerable  stone 
building  surrounded  by  a  ma«sy  wali,  which  enclo- 
ses extensive  gardens,  &lc.  This  place  was  former- 
ly called  Chateau  des  Seigneurs  dc  Montreal,  but 
now  it  has  the  appellation  of  La  Maison  des  Pretres. 
It  is  a  place  of  recreation,  resorted  to,  once  a  week, 
by  both  the  superiors  and  pupils  of  the  Seminary. 

There  is  no  English  College  in  Canada,  but  a 
foundation  for  one  has  been  laid  by  a  g/L'ntleman,"^ 
who  died  in  t8I4,  and  bequeathed  ten  thousand 
pounds,  besides  a  handsome  real  estate  at  the 
Biountain  near  Montreal,  "  for  the  purpose  of  en- 
dowing an  English  College ;  but  upon  condition 
that  such  an  institution  should  be  erected  within 
ten  years,  otherwise  the  property  was  to  revert  to 
his  heirs."  1  have  not  heard  that  the  plan  has  ever 
been  carried  into  execution. 

I  know  nothing  that  has  excited  my  surprise 
more  in  Canada,  than  the  number,  extent  and  vari- 


*  Hon.  James  M'Gill. 


i* 


'1^ 


HKC. 


lOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    quCREC.    371 


It    W^i 

•  -I .         } 

is  in  the 
;n  feet  by 
;  hundred 
ppendage 
xtend  its 
»ns. 

I,  another 
)  be  about 
tble  stone 
ch  enclo- 
>s  forme r- 
treal,  but 
s  Pretres. 
e  a  week, 
seminary, 
da,  but  a 
ntleman,* 

thousand 
:e  at  the 
►se  of  en- 
condiiion 
ed  within 

revert  to 
1  has  ever 


■  surprise 
and  vari- 


ety of  the  French  institutions,  many  of  them  intrin- 
sically of  the  highest  importance,  and  all  of  them 
(according  to  their  views)  possessing  that  character. 
They  are  the  more  extraordinary  when  we  con- 
sider that  most  of  them  are  more  than  a  century 
old,  and  that  at  the  time  of  their  foundation  the 
Colony  was  feeble,  and  almost  constantly  engaged 
in  war.  It  would  seem  from  these  facts,  as  if  the 
French  must  have  contemplated  the  establishment 
of  a  permanent  and  eventually  of  a  great  empire  in 
America,  and  this  is  the  more  probable,  as  most  of 
these  institutions  were  founded  during  the  ambitious, 
splendid  and  enterprising  reign  of  Louis  XIV. 


NORTH  WEST  COMPANY. 

We  have  heard  in  the  United  States,  much  of  the 
contests  of  Lord  Selkirk,*  with  the  North  West 
Company.  Fortunately  the  Americans,  of  the 
States,  are  not  involved  in  the  quarrel,  but  it  is  solely 
an  affair  of  Briton  with  Briton. 

We  were  honored  with  an  introduction  to  Mr. 
M'Gillivray,  who  since  the  death  of  Mr.  M'Tavish, 
is  the  principal  member  of  the  North  West  Com- 
pitny.  This  gentleman,  with  plain  unassuming  bur 
courteous  manners,  and  much  good  sense  and  worth, 
is  highly  esteemed  in  Canada. 

•Thi«  iiithlrnian  itspeni!,  lias  now  trrminateil  his  cnnfpfU  and 
hi«  mor'.ul  careiT. 


tl 

w. 

1 

i 

1 

i 

i 


^1 

■^4 


»"*■  ,.•» 


.372     TOVR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    ASTD    qUB^EC, 


1 


His  villa,  situated  on  one  of  the  declivities  of  the 
mountain,  about  one  mile  and  an  half  from  the  town 
— commanding  a  very  rich  and  extensive  prospect, 
is  one  of  the  most  desirable  residences,  that  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  appears  to  possess  the  charms  of  a  fine 
English  country  seat,  with  a  splendor  and  extent  of 
prospect,  of  which,  (in  an  equal  degree,)  England 
can  rarely  boast. 

Lord  Selkirk,  it  appears,  claims,  under  the  old 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  a  territorial  right  and  ju- 
risdiction, over,  from  one  million  to  one  miHion  five 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  country,  including  the 
most  important  posts  of  the  North  West  Company. 

This  company,  it  seems,  claims  no  territorial 
lights,  except  so  far  as  to  establish  posts  and  depots, 
necessary  to  the  carrying  on  of  the  trade  in  furs, 
which  are  their  great  object,  and  they  entirely  deny 
the  right  of  Lord  Selkirk,  to  assume,  or  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  to  grant  a  territorial  jurisdic- 
tion. The  interfering  views  and  arrangements  of 
the  two  parties,  it  is  well  known,  have  already  pro- 
duced several  severe  conflicts,  in  which  a  good 
many  lives  have  been  lost.  Mr.  M'Gillivray  in- 
formed us,  that  the  thing,  much  to  his  satisfaction, 
had  at  last  got  before  parliament,  end  he  hoped 
would  now  be  arranged  as  it  ought  to  be. 

We  were  informed  that  the  quantity  of  furs  fur- 
nished by  the  Indians,  to  the  North  West  Company, 
is  diminished  one  half,  but  Mr.  M'Gillivray  thought 
this  rather  fortunate  than  otherwise,  because  the  im- 


> 


^A, 


ties  of  the 
n  the  town 
i  prospect, 
hat  I  have 
US  of  a  fine 
I  extent  of 
)  England 

»r  the  old 
ht  and  ju« 
niHion  five 
uding  the 
L^ompany. 
territorial 
id  depots, 
le  in  furs, 
rely  deny 
the  Hud- 
I  jurisdic- 
!menrs  of 
eady  pro- 
1  a  good 
llivray  in- 
tisfaction, 
le   hoped 

furs  fur- 


company, 
y  thought 
>e  the  im- 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC.     373 

poverishment  of  Europe,  by  its  long  continued 
course  of  wars,  had  so  diminished  the  demand,  that 
even  now,  it  was  fully  supplied,  and  the  only  effect 
of  throwing  more  furs  into  the  market,  would  be  to 
diminish  the  demand,  and  of  course  the  prica. 


ABORIGINES. 

The  native  nations  of  this  continent,  it  is  true, 
were  ferocious  and  cruel,  and  in  this  character,  I 
have  more  than  once,  in  the  progress  of  these  re- 
marks, had  occasion  to  stigmatize  them.  Yet  it  is 
an  interesting,  and  at  the  same  time  a  melancholy 
occupation,  to  remember,  that  scarcely  two  centu- 
ries have  elapsed,  since  this  continent  was  occupied 
by  its  aboriginal  inhabitants  ;  heroic,  lofty,  free  as 
the  winds,  and  ignorant  of  any  foreign  masters. 
Now,  the  sword,  and  that  still  greater  destroyer, 
which  all  their  courage  cannot  resist,  have  almost 
exterminated  these  once  powerful  tribes.  Their 
lands,  it  is  true,  have  been  in  many  instances  sold^ 
to  the  whites;  sold!  for  what  consideration! — 
acres  for  beads  and  penknives — provinces  for  blank- 
ets, and  empires  for  powder,  hall  and  rum.  Have 
they  retired  before  the  wave  of  European  population, 
and  do  they  now  exist  in  remoter  and  more  happy 
regions,  where  trader  never  came,  nor  white  man 
trod  ?  No  !  those  who  once  occupied  the  countries 
which  the  whites  now  inhabit,  are  annihilated ',  the 

32* 


I  ^ 


I 

.1 


tt 


jj*^ 


374  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 


'   (0 


blast  of  death  has  withered  their  heroic  thousands  ; 
as  nations  they  have  sunk  forever  into  the  grave,  and 
their  dust  is  mingled  with  the  fiehls  which  we  cuhi- 

vate. 

In  our  older  settlements,  especially  in  the  Atlantic 
cities,  they  are  now  almost  as  rarely  seen,  as  a  white 
man  in  Tombuctoo,  and  the  few  who  remain,  are 
miserable,  blighted  remnants  of  their  ancestors,  par- 
alyzed and  consumed  by  strong  drink,  squalid  in 
poverty  and  filth,  and  sunk  by  oppression  and  con- 
tempt. 

Are  there  any  tribes  that  retain  their  former  ele- 
vation ?  A  few  of  them  remain  in  the  forests  of  the 
west  and  of  the  north,  and  some  of  them  find  their 
way  to  the  cities  of  Canada.  In  the  streets  of 
Montreal,  we  saw  numbers  of  these  people  who  had 
come  down  from  the  north  west,  and  their  appear- 
ance (although  even  they  cannot  refrain  from  intox- 
ication) is  such,  that  one  who  had  never  seen  any 
but  the  miserable  beings  who  stagger  about  our  At- 
lantic towns,  would  hardly  conceive  that  they  be- 
longed to  the  same  race.  Most  of  them,  (females 
as  well  as  males,)  are  dressed  in  blue  cloth  panta- 
loons, with  a  blue  robe  or  blanket,  thrown  graceful- 
ly over  the  shoulder,  and  belted  with  a  scarlet  or 
party  coloured  girdio,  around  the  waist.  They 
wear  hats  with  lace  and  feathers,  and  havea'supe- 
rior  port,  as  if  still  conscious  of  some  elevation  of 
character.  But  these  ill-fated  nations  will  become 
extinct,  notwithstanding  the   efforts  of  benevolent 


■1,  ■-' 


I-  . 


X.J  tr 


EBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  375 


thousands ; 
grave,  and 
h  we  culti- 

he  Atlantic 
,  as  a  white 
'emain,  are 
sstors,  par- 
,  squalid  in 
n  and  con- 
former  ele- 
ests  of  the 
nfind  their 
streets  of 
le  who  had 
eir  appear- 
rom  intox- 
•  seen  any 
>ut  our  At- 
t  they  be- 
1,  (females 
oth  panta- 
II  graceful- 
scarlet  or 
t.  They 
ve  a'supe- 
evation  of 
11  become 
)enevolcnt 


individuals,  especially  as  manifested  by  the  estab- 
lisbmenis  formed  in  the  south  western  parts  of  the 
United  States,  to  christianize  and  civilize  them  ;and 
a  heavy  reckoning  rests  on  the  heads  of  the  civilized 
communities  in  America,  for  their  cruel  treatment  of 
the  American  Aborigines,  and  of  the  not  less  injur* 
ed  Africans. 


PLOUGHING  MATCH. 

Within  a  few  years,  serious  efforts  have  beeo 
made  in  Canada,  to  encourage  its  agriculture. — 
Colonel  Oiilvy,  one  of  the  British  Commissioners, 
respecting  the  boundaries,*  was  among  the  first  to 
encourage  agricuiuire.  The  late  Governors  Sher- 
brook  and  Richmond,  are  also  mentioned  with 
great  respect,  as  distinguished  patrons  of  the  same 
important  interests. 

A  society  is  now  organized  in  Montreal,  for  the 
same  purpose,  aud  at  their  instance,  a  ploughing 
match  was  set  on  foot ;  it  occurred  the  day  after 
our  return  from  Quebec,  and  I  rode  out  to  see  it. 

'J'welve  pairs  of  horses,  geared  after  the  English 
manner,  dragged  as  many  ploughs,  each  moving  in 
its  appointed  portion  of  a  large  smooth  meadow. 
Some  of  the  ploughs  were  made  entirely  of  iron, 
and  had  a  very  light  and   neat  appearance.     The 

♦  The  news  of  whose  unfortunate  death,  while  engaged  in  the 
discharge  of  the  duties  of  that  trust,  reached  Montreal  while  Wf 
were  there,  and  created  a  strong  sensation  of  grief. 


I 


1)      / 


376     TOUR    HETWEEN    HARTFORD  and    QUEnEC. 

ploughing  was  very  well  performed — the  furrows 
were  almost  inatijtiniatically  strait,  and  the  turf  was 
handsomely  laid  over.  1  was  informed  that  there 
were  three  premiums,  the  highest  forty  dollars,  and 
that  they  were  granted  both  to  excellence  and  speed 
combined.  .Li  ...;;. 


I,  ^^ 


AGRICULTURAL  DINNER. 

A  great  dinner  was  provided    at    the  Mansion 

House  where  we  lodged,  and  the  friends  of  agricul- 

ture  assembled,  to  partake  of  its  fruits.  Dining  in 
support  of  Ones  country^  and  of  its  important  inter- 

estSy  is  a  method  of  evincing  patriotism,  so  general- 
ly approved,  that  it  rarely  wants  adherents.  Nearly 
forty  gentlemen  were  assembled  on  the  present  oc- 
casion, and  among  them  were  some  of  the  princi- 
pal people  for  wealth  and  influence. 

The  dinner  hour  in  Quebec  and  Montreal  is  five 
o'clock,  but  as  it  is  always  five  till  it  is  six,  the  time 
of  sitting  down  is  usually  delayed  to  near  the  latter 
hour,  and  dinner  is  actually  served,  for  the  most  part, 
between  six  and  seven  o'clock.  By  invitation  we  at- 
tended, and  in  the  present  instance,  sat  down  at  seven 
o'clock ;  the  dinner,  however,  with  all  its  appenda- 
ges, was  not  over  till  the  next  day  ;  viz.  till  be- 
tween twelve  and  one  o'clock  in  the  morning.  I 
need  hardly  say,  that  zoe  did  not  sit  it  out ;  we 
stayed  however  long  enough,  to  see  the  peculiari- 
ties of  a  greai  dinner  in  Montreal. 


anEBEc. 

the  furrows 
he  turf  was 
i  that  there 
dollars,  and 
e  and  speed 


le  Mansion 
>  of  agricul- 

Dining  in 
>rtant  inter- 
so  general- 
ts.  Nearly 
present  oc- 
the  princi- 

treal  is  five 
X,  the  time 
r  the  latter 

most  part, 
ation  we  at- 
wn  at  seven 
s  appenda- 
\riz,  till  be- 
orning.  I 
t  out ;  we 

peculiari- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPORD  AND  (itJEBEC.  37? 

The  tables  were  laid  in  a  room  of  fifty  feet  in 
length,  and  we  marched  into  it,  to  the  music  of  a 
considerable  band — piping  and  drumming,  the  fa- 
vourite air,  "  speed  the  plough,^^ 

A  large  transparency,  occupying  the  space  from 
the  ceiling  of  a  lofty  room,  nearly  to  the  floor,  ex- 
hibited, behind  the  chair  of  the  President,  a  view  of 
Montreal  and  of  its  beautiful  mountain. 

The  table  was  spread  and  decorated  in  a  very 
handsome  manner,  and  all  the  meats,  poultry,  wild 
fowl,  and  vegetables,  which  are  in  season  in  the 
United  States,  at  this  tim  e  were  laid  before  us,  in 
the  greatest  perfection,  both  in  the  articles  them- 
selves and  in  the  cookery.  The  desert  was  equal- 
ly handsome,  and  of  the  same  kind  as  is  usual  in 
the  United  States.  Who,  however,  that  is  unac- 
quainted with  Canada,  would  expect  to  see  the  finest 
cantelopes,  and  the  most  delicious  grapes,  the  pro- 
duce of  the  country,  and  that  in  the  middle  of  Oc- 
tober? The  grapes  are  raised  in  the  open  air, 
but  in  winter  the  vines  are  not  only  covered  with 
straw,  as  with  us,  but  with  clay  more  than  a  foot 
thick,  and  in  the  summer,  a  great  proportion  of 
the  leaves,  except  near  the  cluster,  is  taken  ofT, 
and  the  vines  are  prevented  from  running,  by  twist- 
ing them.  Peaches  from  the  Genesee  country,  were 
on  the  table,  but  they  were  not  particularly  good ; 
apples,  however,  cantelopes.  and  grapes  of  the  finest 
kind^  and  in  the  greatest  profuiion^  have  been 
constantly  before  us  in  Canada,  and  have  formed  a 


I 


Ir 


f 


■,  y 


f^    1^ 


378    TOUR    BETWEEN    HAKTFOKD    AND    ^IJEHKC. 

part  of  almost  every  desert,  even  in  the  public 
houses  and  in  the  steann  boats.  '*  All  the  usual 
garden  fruits, as gooseberries,currants,  strawberries, 
raspberries,  peaches,  apricots  and  plums,  are  pro- 
duced in  plenty,  and  it  may  be  asserted  truly  in  as 
much  perfection  as  in  many  southern  cHmatcs,  or 
even  in  greater."  It  is  said  that  the  orchards  pro- 
duce apples  not  surpassed  in  any  country. 

The  agricultural  productions  of  tlie  country  arc 
very  fine  ;  in  no  respect  inferior  to  those  of  the 
United  States,  and  they  are  evidently  raised,  in 
Lower  Canada,  in  greaterprofusion,  and  with  great- 
re  ease,  than  with  us.  The  market  in  Montreal,  is 
excellent — it  contains,  according  to  the  season,  all 
kinds  of  meats,  with  abundance  of  fowl,  game,  fish, 
and  vcgelables,  in  fine  order. 

The  fine  champaign  country,  which  occupies  so 
large  a  part  of  Lower  Canada,  is  exceedingly  fer- 
tile, and,  although  we  are  accustomed  to  consider 
the  climate  as  very  severe,  it  is  evidently  very 
healthy  ;  with  the  coutrivances  which  exist  here, 
for  producing  and  preserving  heat,  and  for  excluding 
cold,  the  climate  is,  by  all  accounts,  ver)  comforta- 
ble ;  and  it  does  not  appear,  that  it  prevents  the  in- 
habitants from  enjoying  nearly  every  production  of 
the  earth,  which  is  known  in  the  States  bordering 
on  Canada.  Their  potatoes  and  cauliflowers,  are 
particularly  good,  niid  are  raised  with  great  ease. 

The  only  article  which  we  have  found  generally 
bad,  in  this  country,  has  been  bread.     The  best 


:i 


1 1  - 


-V*     >J»TI 


^UEHCC. 

I  the  public 

II  the  usual 
strawberries, 
rns,  are  pro- 
ed  truly  in  as 

climates,  or 
>rchards  pro- 
itry. 

5  country  are 
)  those  of  the 
tly  raised,  in 
nd  with  great- 
n  Montreal,  is 
le  season,  all 
Af  game,  fish, 

1  occupies  so 
ceedingly  fer- 
id  to  consider 
vidently  very 
h  exist  here, 
I  for  excluding 
er)  comforla- 
events  the  in- 
production  of 
tes  bordering 
I i flowers,  are 
great  ease, 
unci  generally 
d.     The  best 


' 


TOUtt    BETWEEV    HARTFORD  ANI>   QHEnEC.    379 

which  we  have  seen,  has  been  only  tolernble,  and 
mo^t  of  it  lias  been  so  sour,  dark  coloured,  and  bit- 
ter, that  it  look  some  time  to  reconcile  u?  to  it  in  any 
degrno.  We  wore,  beyond  moasure,  astoiiisht-d 
at  the  b.ii!ne-s  of  this  article,  especially  as  it  is  so 
good  in  England,  atul  in  the  cities  of  the  United 
States,  and  as  t^o  many  of  the  Canadians  are  perfect- 
ly acijuainted  wiih  both  countries. 

This  public  dinner  was  conducted  with  great  de- 
corum and  civility. 

After  dinner,  toasts  were  drunk,  with  music  ;  the 
great  personages  of  the  empire,  and  of  the  North- 
American  colonies,  were,  of  course,  toasted,  and  va- 
rious sentiments  were  given  in  honour  of  agriculture. 
Most  of  them  were  drunk*  standing,  and  with 
cheers,  three,  six  or  nine,  according  to  the  intensity^ 

*  There  was  one  circumstance  in  this  dinner,  which  I  have  not 
elsewhere  noticed.  Wijen  tiie  loa^ts  were  to  be  cheered,  the 
Vice-Preeident,  after  rising,  (and  the  company  with  him,)  cried 
out,  ver  J  loud,  and  with  very  distinct  articulation,  anJ  strong  em- 
phasis, and  a  pause  between  the  words — liip  I  hip  !  hip  [——hur- 
ra !  hurra  1 now  !   now  I  now hurra  ! again  I  again  '. 

again! burnt  I — hip  !  hip  !^ — hurra  !  hurra  !  hurra  !  &c. — the 

company  repeating  only  the  hurra,  to  which  the  other  words  ap- 
peared to  be  only  a  watch  word,  that  all  might  join  in  the  hurra 
at  once.  Since  this  dinner,  1  am  told  by  an  Englishman,  that  this 
ceremonial  is  not  uncommon  at  set  formal  parties  in  England,  but 
I  never  heard  of  it  while  there. 

A  Scotch  friend  informs  me  that  this  custom  is  universal  in 
Britain,  in  large  Public  Dinners,  particularly  Political  ones.  This 
is  what  is  meant  when  a  Toast  is  said  to  b6  drunk  with  Three 
times  Three,  it  is  never  called  as  with  us  Three  Cheers. 


.\ 


li 


1 


i 


380    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC 

of  feeling,  or  the  dignity  of  the  personages,  or  popu 
larity  of  the  sentiment. 


|i      fV  ■ 


i  / 


The  Canadians  appear  very  loyal,  and  we  cannot 
be  a  day  in  their  country,  without  perceiving  in  the 
language  and  ma  nners  of  the  people  that  we  are 
under  a  royal  government. 

The  mansion  house,  (originally  built  by  Sir  John 
Johnson,"*^  son  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  whose  name 
was  so  famous  in  the  colonies,  during  the  French 
wars,)is  the  finest  establishment  of  the  kind  in  Can- 
ada, and  would  be  considered  as  a  fine  one  in  Eng- 
land. The  house,  (as  I  remarked  when  here  before,) 
is  very  large,  with  two  wings,  lately  added,  almost 
as  extensive  as  the  house  itself,  and  contains  ample 
accommodations  for  public  or  private  parties,  for 
balls  and  assemblies,  for  individuals  or  families,  and 
is  delightfully  situated,  with  its  front  upon  the  im- 
mediate bank  of  the  St-  Lawrence,  where  the  river, 
and  every  thing  upon  it,  and  much  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  is  in  full  view. 


HISTORY,  kc. 

After  the  fall  of  Quebec,  in  September,  1759, 
Montreal  became  the  rendezvous  of  the  remaining 
forces  of  the  French,  and  the  Marquis  Vaudreuille 

*  Who  is  fltill  living  in  Montreal,  although  now  an  old  man. 


M      , 


-•«_ 


CEREf:. 

s,  or  popu 


we  cannot 
ving  in  the 
at  we  are 

)y  Sir  John 
whose  name 
the  French 
[ind  in  Can- 
one  in  Eng- 
jre  before,) 
Ided,  almost 
itains  ample 
parties,  for 
families,  and 
pon  the  im* 
re  the  river, 
le  surround- 


nber,  1759, 
e  remaining 
Vaudreuille 

'  an  old  man. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <),UEREC.  381 

Governor-General  of  Canada,  during  the  ensuing 
summer  of  1760,  made  every  eflfort  possible,  to  save 
the  country.  But,  it  was  ail  in  vain.  The  force 
which  General  Amherst  commanded,  was  totally 
superior  to  all  Ihat  the  FVench  General  could  mus- 
ter. It  was  not,  however,  till  September,  that  the 
conquest  of  Canada  was  fully  accomplished*  On 
the  sixth  of  that  month.  General  Amherst,  with  an 
army  of  more  than  ten  thousand  men,  landed  at  La 
Chine,  on  the  island  of  Montreal,  having  prosecuted 
his  enterprise,  under  very  great  hardships  and  diffi- 
culties, through  the  wilderness,  Irom  Schenectady 
to  Oswego,  and  down  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  rapids 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  on  the  same  day,  General 
Murray  arrived  with  his  army,  from  Quebec,  and 
the  day  after,  General  Haviland,  with  another  ar- 
my from  Lake  Champlain,  appeared  at  Longueil. 
Thus,  by  a  singular  concurrence,  (devoutly  regard- 
ed at  the  time,  by  the  good  people  of  the  English 
colonies,  as  peculiarly  the  result  of  the  favouring 
providence  of  God,)  Ihrce  powerful  armies,  amount- 
ing lomore  than  twenty  thousand  men,  arrived,  al- 
most at  the  same  hour,  from  regions  widely  remote, 
and  after  encountering  peculiar,  and  great  difficul- 
ties. 

Nothing  remained  for  the  Marquiy  de  Vaudreuille, 
surrounded,  as  he  was,  by  an  overwhelming  force, 
but  to  capitulate.  Accordingly,  on  the  eighth,  ho 
surrendered  his  army  prisoners  of  war,  and  with 
them,  tlie  whole  of  Canada  aijJ  its  dcpendrncics. 

33 


ii 


!/' 


y 


382  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


)^ 


'  i  : 


I't 


>  •■  I! 


f 


The  most  honourable  terms  were  granted  to  him, 
in  consequence  of  the  signal  gallantry,  talent,  perse- 
verance, and  patriotism,  which  he  had  displayed. 
"  Thus,  in  little  more  than  a  century  and  a  half 
from  its  first  settlement,  in  the  sixth  year  of  the 
war,  after  six*  general  battles,  this  vast  country  was 
completely  conquered  by  the  conjoined  armies  of 
Great  Britain  and  her  colonies."! 

Montreal  was  taken  by  General  Montgomery,  on 
the  thirteenth  of  November,  1775,  but  without  op- 
position, except  that  a  little  before.  Governor 
Carleton  had  been  defeated  at  Longueil,  by  Colo- 
nel Warner,  an  event  which  prepared  the  way  for 
the  downfall  of  St.  Johns,  and  of  Montreal  itself. 

This  city  has  been,  more  or  less,  concerned  in 
all  the  wars  of  this  country,  since  its  foundation; 
but,  I  am  not  informed  that  any  very  memorable  bat- 
tle has  been  fought  in  its  vicinity.  It  was  never 
very  strongly  fortified,  and,  at  present,  there  is  not 
even  the  appearance  of  fortification ;  the  old  walls 
and  forts  having  been  levelled,  and  even  the  Cita- 
del-Hill, an  artificial  mound  of  commanding  eleva- 
tion, which,  with  vast  labor,  the  French  had  erected 
in  the  midst  of  the  city,  they  are  now  in  the  act  of 

♦  Those  of  Lake  George,  TicoDderoga, Niagara,  Montmorenri. 
Quebec  and  Sillery. 


I  . 


t  Trumbuirs  History  of  Counecticut. 


(7KBEC. 

ed  to  him, 
lent,  perse- 
]  displayed, 
and  a  half 
'ear  of  the 
rountry  was 
d  armies  of 

igomery,  on 
without  op- 
,  Governor 
il,  by  Colo- 
the  wav  for 
^al  itself, 
^ncerned  in 
foundation; 
morable  hat- 
;  was  never 
there  is  not 
he  old  walls 
en  the  Cita- 
iding  eleva- 
had  erected 
n  the  act  of 

,  Montmorenri, 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   <^UEBEC.    383 

removing,  to  make  room  for  a  reservoir  of  water.* 
As  at  Quebec,  I  observed  great  piles  of  heavy  can- 
non, but,  probably,  they  have  reference  principally 
to  naval  preparations. 

There  is  a  small  body  of  troops  here  at  present, 
and  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  them 
parade  in  the  beautiful  ground  called  the  Champs 
de  Mars.  There  are  extensive  stone  barracks  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city  ; 
they  are  occupied  by  the  British  troops,  but,  I  pre- 
sume, were  erected  by  the  French,  as  they  are  in 
their  style  of  architecture. 


CAOTION  TO  STRANGERS  IN  CANADA. 

Soon  after  arriving  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  almost 
every  stranger  finds  his  stomach  and  bowels  deran- 
ged, and  a  diarrhoea,  more  or  less  severe,  succeeds- 
The  fact  is  admitted  on  all  hands;  and  sometimes 
the  complaint  becomes  very  serious,  and  is  said,  in 
a  few  cases,  (very  peculiar  ones,  I  presume,)  to 
have  become  dang^eronB,  and  oven  faul.  It  is  im- 
puted to  the  lime,  supposed  Co  be  dissolved  by  the 
St.  Lawrence,  whose  waters  are  generally  used  for 
culinary  purposes.     I  have  never  heard  that  any 

*  I  was  informed  at  Montreal,  that  this  was  the  object  of  r«> 
moving  Citadel- Hill ;  but  a  correspondent,  aince  the  publication 
or  the  first  edition  of  thir  book,  siig^getl!  that  the  removal  '*  was  to 
open  and  extend  the  itrect,  and  not  |o  make  room  for  a  reaervoir 
•f  water." 


i    il 


^ 


384  TOUR  BETWEEN  HAUTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


i    V 


>J) 


*  i 


/:'l 


Y"- 


chemical  examination  of  the  waters  has  been  per- 
formed, but  it  is  evident  that  it  contains  something 
foreign,  because  it  curdles  soap.  It  is  said  that 
boihng  makes  it  harmless.  The  same  thing  is  as- 
serted of  the  waters  of  Holland,  which  produce 
similar  effects  upon  strangers.  I  have  experienced 
these  effects  both  in  Holland,  and  in  Canada ;  and  Mr. 

W was,  in  the  latter  country,  more  severely 

affected  than  myself. 

Strangers  from  the  United  States,  coming  here, 
should  be  very  cautious  of  their  diet,  especially  as 
the  hour"  are  so  different  from  those  that  prevail 
in  most  of  the  States,  and  as  they  are  even  much 
later  than  those  of  our  cities.  The  late  dinners, 
and  the  conviviality  of  Canada,  subject  a  stranger, 
(especially  from  the  eastern  States,)  to  be  eating 
meats  and  drinking  wine,  when  he  usually  drinki 
tea,  and  his  stomach  has  been,  perhaps,  before  en- 
feebled by  fasting,  and  is  (hen  enfeebled  again  by 
repletion.  The  sour  bread  also  appears  to  have  its 
share  in  producing  a  derangement  of  the  stomach. 


PECULIAR  MODE  OF  EXTRACTING  TEETH. 

Severe  suffering  from  my  teeth,  while  in  Mon- 
treal, oblit^ed  me  to  resort  lolhe  usual  painful  rem- 
edy. It  was  rendered,  however,  in  the  present  in- 
stance, much  less  distressing  than  common,  by  a 
mode  of  extraction,  which  1  have  never  seen  prac- 
tised elsewhere. 


I  ■ 


i 


UEBEC. 

as  been  per- 
ns something 

is  said  that 
2  thing  is  as- 
lich  produce 

experienced 
iada;and  Mr. 
ore  severely 

conning  here, 
especially  as 
5  that  prevail 
re  even  much 

late  dinners, 
!ct  a  stranger, 

to  be  eating 
usually  drihki 
ps,  before  en- 
)led  again  by 
ars  to  have  its 
'  the  stomach. 


G  TEKTH. 

vhile  in  Mon- 
1  painful  reni- 
he  present  in- 
common,  by  a 
ver  seen  nrac- 


TOUR  BETWEEN    UARTFORO  AND    QUEB£C.    385 

A  pair  of  strong  hawks-bill  forceps,  bent  at  the 
mouth,  gently  downward,  and  then  inward,  and 
terminating  in  delicate  teeth,  is  applied  to  the  tooth 
to  be  drawn;  no  cutting  of  the  gum  is  practised, 
nor  any  preparation,  except  simply  to  place  a  small 
piece  of  wood  (pine  is  commonly  used,)  between 
the  forceps  and  the  jaw,  and  close  to  the  tooth; 
this  stick  is  the  prop — the  tooth  is  the  weight  to  be 
lifted,  and  the  hand  applies  the  power  just  at  the 
end  of  the  lever,  that  is,  at  the  other  end  of  the  for- 
ceps. The  pressure  is  applied  downward,  if  it  be 
the  lower  jaw—  upward,  if  it  be  the  upper  jaw,  and 
the  tooth  (without  any  thing  of  that  horrible  crash 
which  attends  the  usual  mode  of  extraction,  without 
prying  against  the  jaw,  and  thus  creating  danger  of 
breaking  it,  besides  producing  much  pain  by  the 
pressure  on  the  sides  of  the  socket,)  is  lifted  per- 
pendicularly from  its  bed ;  there  is  no  other  vio- 
lence than  to  break  the  periosteum,  and  the  con- 
necting vessels  and  nerves,  and  the  thing  is  etTect- 
ed  with  comparatively  little  pain.  When  it  is  de- 
sired simply  to  cut  a  tooth  off,  in  order  to  plug  it, 
it  is  necessary  only  to  compress  the  instrument, 
without  prying. 

It  may  be  supposed  that  the  pressure  against  the 
jaw,  by  the  prop,  must  be  painful ;  on  the  contrary, 
it  iF  not  felt,  because  the  action  and  re-action  are 
exactly  equal,  between  the  pressure  on  the  jaw 
and  the   resistance  of  the  tooth.     Dr.   Fay,  from 

33* 


{ 


i     n 


jfct' 


;  .) 


i     .J. 


386    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 

Vermont,  is  the  person  who  operates  in  this  ingen- 
ious manner.* 


CATHOLIC  WORSHIP. 

This  worship  is  fully  maintained  in  Canada.  It 
is  said  that  the  Catholics  of  this  country  even  lay 
claim  to  a  greater  degree  of  purity  and  strictness, 
than  those  of  old  France.  In  other  Catholic  coun- 
tries, they  go  from  the  church  to  the  theatre,  but 
it  was  stated  to  us  in  Montreal,  that  the  Catholic 
priests  do  not  permit  their  people  to  attend  the 
theatres,  and  that  it  is  very  rare  that  a  Catholic  is 
seen  in  them  in  Canada. 

We  visited  numbers  of  their  houses  of  worship, 
and,  even  in  their  villages,  these  houses  are  deco- 
rated with  pictures,  and  considerably  ornamented 
in  their  finishing.  We  never  entered  one  of  them, 
without  finding  people  at  their  devotions.  They 
cross  themselves  with  holy  water,  and  then,  with 
much  apparent  seriousness,  repeat  their  prayers 
silently,  moving  their  lips  only.  As  in  other  Cath- 
<klic  countries,  the  people  here  are  said  to  be  very 
ignorant  of  the  scriptures,  but  of  this  1  can  say 
nothing  from  personal  knowledge. 

The  Catholic  cathedrals  at  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, are  splendidly  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of 
pictures,  images  and  gilding,  and  the  dresses  worn 

*  I  am  awaie  that  the  iLing  has  been  attempted  in  other  modes, 
bat  I  believe  in  none  so  simple  and  eflectual. 


t 


J*.-.. 


UEBEC. 

this  ingen- 


Canada.  It 
try  even  lay 
d  strictness, 
itholic  coun- 
thcatre,  but 
the  Catholic 
3  attend  the 
a  Catholic  is 

i  of  worship, 
ses  are  deco- 
ornamcnted 
one  of  them, 
ions.  They 
d  then,  with 
heir  prayers 
1  other  Cath- 
id  to  be  very 
is  1  can  say 

sal  and  Que- 
»  profusion  of 
dresses  worn 

1  in  other  modes, 


« 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HAtlTFORD   AND  (QUEBEC.    307 

by  the  ecclesiastics  and  attendants  in  the  cathedral 
in  Montreal,  are  very  showy  and  costly,  being  com- 
posed of  silk,  curiously  embroidered,  and  flowered 
with  many  colors,  and  with  gold.  Th'jre  was  wor- 
ship at  this  cathedral,  before  the  hour  of  the  Pro- 
testant service,  and  we  were  present  a  pari  of  the 
time.  The  building  is  very  large,  but  it  was  crowd- 
ed to  overflowing;  every  alley  and  nook  was  filled, 
and  the  utmost  attention  and  scriousruss  appeared 
in  the  congregation.  The  preacher  pronounced  a 
discourse*  in  French,  in  a  very  animated  and  im- 
pressive manner,  and  it  was  considered  as  an  elo- 
quent performance,  and  in  very  good  classical 
French.  His  private  character  also  was  said  to  be 
excellent.  .,     . 

Nine  tenths  of  all  the  population  here  are  Cath- 
olics, and,  in  every  village,  the  cross  is  seen  dis- 
played in  some  conspicuous  place  ;  it  is  commonly 
made  of  wood,  and  is  frequently  surmounted  by  a 
crown  of  thorns.  The  Catholic  clei^y  of  Canada 
are  highly  spoken  of  by  the  Protestants,  and,  al- 
though there  may  be  exceptions,  they  are  said  gen- 
erally to  exert  a  salutary  influence  over  the  com- 
mon people.  Articles  of  property  which  have  been 
stolen,  are  frequently  returned,  unsolicited,  to  the 
proper  owners,  and  that  through  the  intervention  of 
the  priests. 

*  His  object  was  to  recommend  the  example  of  Clirijt  to  the 
imitation  ofhis  audience. 


I' 


M 


I '  * 


H*; 


V-(  ■     [ 


388  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

The  Cd'hoiic  Churcli  in  Canada  is  opulent.  It? 
principal  source  of  n!v^(!nue  is  from  the  lodes  H 
ventcs^  or  fines  of  alienation,  which  is  a  certain  per 
centii>i;c  on  tiie  sal*;  of  real  estate.  It  was  stated  to 
us  A^  being  in  Montreal  eight  per  cent,  on  the  sales 
of  all  real  estates  in  the  seigniory  ;  that  is,  in  the 
whole  island,  which  is  thirty  miles  long  by  ten  and 
a  half  wide.  The  CalhoUc  Church*  is  the  seignicur 
to  this  seigniory.  The  per  centage  is  paid  by  the 
purchaser,  and  is  repeated  ^very  time  the  estate  is 
sold.  This  enormous  charge  is  not,  however,  fully 
enforced ;  the  clergy  are  glad  to  compound  for  five 
per  cent,  and  it  is  even,  in  some  instances,  evaded 
or  refused  altogether,  and  I  believe  it  is  rarely  en- 
forced by  law,  although  it  is  understood  that  the 
right  is  complete.  Perhaps  the  clergy  may  feel 
a  delicacy  in  prosecuting  an  unpopular  claim,  under 
a  government,  which,  although  it  protects  them 
fully  in  their  rights,  and  exercises  towards  them  a 
perfect  toleration,  is  of  a  different  religious  order. 
It  is  a  strange  fact,  not  only  that  the  Catholics  of 
Britain  and  Ireland,  but  even  other  sectaries  from 
the  established  church,  do  not  experience,  at  home, 
any  thing  like  the  toleration  which  is  enjoyed  by  the 
Catholics  in  Canada;  rather,  it  would  almost  seem 
as  if  the  latter  were,  in  Canada,  the  estabhshed 


,  1 


J 


*  Bouchetle  states  that  this  property  belongs  to  the  Seminary 
of  St.  Sulpice,  but  this  is,  I  supi  oee,  only  another  name  for  its      { 
belon j;iris:  to  the  clergy,  who  are  the  fathers  and  directors  of  the 
inntitutieo. 


r 


QUEBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  389 


opulent.    It? 
[1  the  lodes  tt 
I  a  certain  per 
t  was  stated  to 
it.  on  the  sales 
that  is,  in  the 
mg  by  ten  and 
s  the  seignicur 
is  paid  by  the 
le  the  estate  is 
however,  fully 
Tipound  for  five 
itances,  evaded 
it  is  rarely  en- 
stood  that  the 
lergy  may  feel 
lar  claim,  under 

protects  them 
towards  them  a 
religious  order, 
he  Catholics  of 

sectaries  from 

rience,  at  home, 

s  enjoyed  by  the 

uld  almost  seem     \ 

the  estabUshed 

mgs  to  the  Seminarf  | 
another  name  for  itt  | 
I  and  directors  of  the 


church  still,  and  that  the  Protestant  Episcopal,  and 
other  denominations,  were  the  U  rated  sects.  The 
present  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  Low- 
er Canada,  is  a  Catholic. 

1  have  already  remarked  that  we  attended  wor- 
ship in  a  very  large  Episcopal  Church  recently 
erected,  and  although  the  building  does  honour  to 
Montreal,  it  was  by  no  means  so  well  tilled  as  the 
Catholic  Cathedral. 

Indeed,  it  is  wonderful  that  sixty  years  of  sub- 
jection to  a  foreign  power  have  not  done  more  to 
weaken  the  French  establishments  and  institutions 
in  Canada.  They  not  only  remain  for  the  most 
part,  but  seem,  in  many  instances,  to  have  gained 
vigor,  and  every  thing  still  bears  a  thousand  times 
more  the  appearance  of  a  French  than  of  an  Eng- 
lish country.  This  is  not  more  apparent  in  any 
thing,  than  in  the  general  prevalence  of 

THE  FRENCH  LANGUAGE. 

This  is  altogether  the  prevailing  tongue  of  the 
towns,  and  the  invariable  language  of  the  villages. 
In  the  streets,  both  in  town  and  country;  in  the 
steam-boats ;  in  the  markets ;  and,  in  short,  every 
where,  you  hardly  ever  hear  any  thing  but  French. 
All  people  of  business,  of  education,  of  fashion  and 
influence,  speak  both  languages;  and  we  were  in- 
formed, that  the  proceedings  of  all  courts,  and  alt 
nleadinirs  and  arguments  in  them,  are  carried  on  in 


pleadings 


/    V 


V  ! 


•■  M 


'.  I  • 


390  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

both.  The  common  people  in  the  towns  generally 
speak  both ;  many  of  those  who  come  to  market 
also ;  but  in  the  villages  we  more  generally  found 
that  they  spoke  French  only. 

It  is  conceded,  I  believe,  that  the  French  gentry 
in  Canada  speak  and  write  the  language  with  purity. 
We  heard  an  eminent  French  gentleman,  at  the 
agricultural  dinner,  sing  'God  save  the  King'  in 
French;  but  it  is  often  said,  that  the  common 
French  Canadians  speak  only  a  spurious  and  cor- 
rupted French,  having  only  a  remote  resemblance 
to  that  of  France.  B\it  there  seems  reason  to  doubt 
the  correctness  of  this  opinion.  Mr.  W— ,  who, 
in  youth,  learned  to  speak  the  French  language  in 
France,  not  only  found  no  difficulty  in  conversing 
with  the  common  people — (and  we  had  considera- 
ble intercourse  with  them)-»but  ho  gives  ii  as  his 
opinion,  i^at  the  French  spoken  by  them  is,  if  any 
thing,  more  pure  than  that  used  by  the  country  peo- 
ple of  France,  and  that  it  is  as  good  as  the  English 
spoken  by  the  common  classes  of  society  in  the 
United  States.  In  many  instances,  the  phraseolo- 
gy of  the  country  people  was  considered  as  remark- 
ably apposite,  and  even  occasionally,  elegant.  I 
have  already  quoted  the  opinion  of  Charlevoix  on- 
this  point ;  and  there  seems  to  have  been,  in  tkic 
respect,  very  little  change,  since  his  time. 


,■■» 
-    »         \ 


«i*"-  » 


A.  ^  ■ 


I^UBBEC. 


TOUR  BETWBEN  HARTFORD  AND  qtPBEC.   *>I 


^ns  generally 
e  to  market 
lerally  found 

rench  gentry 
3  with  purity, 
iman,  at  the 
the  King'  in 
the  common 
ious  and  cor- 
resemblance 
lason  to  doubt 

W ,  who, 

h  language  in 
in  conversing 
tad  considera- 
gives  it  as  his 
lem  is,  if  any 
I  country  peo- 
as  the  English 
lociety   in  the 
he  phraseolo- 
red  as  remark- 
,  elegant.    I 
harlevoix  on- 
been,  in  thi« 
ime* 


FREiNCH  POPULATION— THEIR  MANNERS,  CO: 
VILLAGES,  POLITICAL  SITUATION,  &c. 


ME 


Colonel  Bouchette  states  the  population  of  Low- 
er Canada  at  three  hundred  and  ihirty-five  thous- 
and ;  and  of  this  number,  two  hundred  and  sev- 
enty five  thousand  are  French.*  It  is,  therefore, 
still  a  French  country,  and  it  is  surprising,  that  in 
more  than  half  a  century  so  little  impression  has 
been  made  on  their  peculiar  characteristics. 

In  the  lower  province,  where  they  are  almost  ex- 
clusively found,  the  soil  is  generally  luxuriant;  they 
inhabit,  for  the  most  part,  the  rich  alluvial  soil  by 
which  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Sorel,  and  other  prin- 
cipal waters,  are  so  extensively  bordered.  Their 
subsistence  is  easily  obtained — there  are  scarcely 
any  marks  of  extreme  poverty  among  them,  and  a 
mendicant  we  never  saw  while  in  the  country. — 
They  are,  however,  generally  without  enterprise, 
and  are  satisfied  to  go  on  without  change,  from  gen- 
eration to  generation.  There  is  much  reason  to  be- 
lieve, that  they  give  a  very  just  exhibition  of  the 
French  people  in  the  provinces  from  which  they 
emigrated,  as  they  were  two  hundred  years  ago.  I 
speak  of  the  common  people.  They  are  more  like 
an  European  peasantry,  than  any  thing  in  this  coun- 
try :  I  mean  in  North  America.  They  are  truly  a 
peasantry,  except  that  they  are  vastly  superior  to 
European  peasantry  in  comforts  and  in  privileges. 

L         *  la  1663,  it  contained  7000  souls  ;  in  1714,  20,000  ;  in  1759, 
70,000 ;  ia  1775,  90,000,  including  upper  Canada— fioue^ttt. 


:  f 


392    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (^TJEBEC. 

It  is  questionable,  whether  any  conquered  coun- 
try was  ever  better  treated  by  its  conquerers.  They 
were  left  in  complete  possession  of  their  religion, 
and  of  the  revenues  to  support  it ;  of  their  property, 
laws,  customs,  and  manners  ;  and  even  the  very 
governing*  and  defending  of  the  country  is  almost 
without  expense  to  them.  They  are  said  to  pay 
no  taxes  to  government,  and  none  of  any  descrip- 
tion, except  a  trifling  sum  of  a  few  shillings  a  year 
to  their  seigneurs,  as  an  acknowledgment  for  the 
tenure  of  their  lands,  and  a  twenty  sixth  part  of 
their  grain  to  the  clergy,  with  certain  liabiliiies  to 
contribute  to  the  repair  of  churches,  and  various 
other  public  objects. 

With  the  affairs  of  government  they  give  them- 
selves little  concern  ;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  if  cor- 
rectly stated  to  us  by  various  intelligent  men  in 
Canada,  that  this  couiitry,  so  far  from  being  a  source 
of  revenue,  is  an  actual  charge  upon  the  treasury  of 
the  empire. 

It  would  seem  as  if  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
government  were  taken  off  their  hands,  and  as  if 


,1   \'- 


♦Remarks  by  «  British  frien.l. — Lower  Canada  now,  1821 
pays  its  own  Civil  List,  but  all  the  military  establishment  is  at 
the  expense  of  the  Home  Government :  and  no  advantage  of  a  pe- 
cuniary kind  is  derived  from  our  N.  American  Colonies.  Even 
the  timber  has  been  proved  before  Parliament  to  be  so  inferior, 
that  this  year  a  tax  has  bf^en  laid  upon  it,  to  make  it  more  equal 
in  this  respect  with  the  Baltic  timber,  which  is  much  superior  in 
quality,  but  was  excluded  in  a  great  measure  from  our  markets  by 
a  prohibitory  duty. 


t    I 


JCBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC.    399 


Bred  coun- 
•ers.  They 
ir  religion, 
ir  property, 
n  the  very 
-y  is  almost 
;aid  to  pay 
,ny  descrip- 
lings  a  year 
nent  for  the 
ixth  part  of 
liabiliiies  to 
and  various 

'  give  them- 
sfact,  ifcor- 
gent  men  in 
eing  a  source 
le  treasury  of 

expense  of 
ds,  and  as  if 

lada  now,  1821 
ablishinent  is  at 
vantage  of  a  pe- 
Colonies.  Evt-n 
to  be  so  inferior, 
ike  it  nriore  equal 
much  superior  in 
m  our  markets  by 


they  were  left  to  enjoy  their  own  domestic  comforts 
without  a  drawback.  Such  is  certainly  the  appear- 
ance of  the  population,  and  i^t  is  doubtful  whether 
even  our  own  favored  communities  are  politically 
more  happy.  It  is  evident  that  the  Canadians  are 
abundantly  more  so,  than  the  mass  of  the  English 
population  at  home.  They  are  not  exposed,  in  a 
similarmanner,  to  poverty,  and  the  danger  of  starva- 
tion, which  so  often  invade  the  Enirlish  manufac- 
turing districts,  and  which,  aided  by  their  denia- 
gogues,  goad  them  on  to  every  thing  but  open  re- 
bellion. 

Such  is  the  richness  of  the  soil  in  Lower  Cana- 
da, that  the  farmers  are  said  even  to  be  afraid  of 
raising  too  much  produce,  lest  the  price  should  fall. 
They  have  so  little  occasion  to  manure  their 
grounds,  that  stable  manure,  as  we  were  assuivd, 
is,  in  the  winter — even  now,  and  it  was  much  more 
the  fact  formerly — carried  on  to  the  river,  and  left 
in  heaps  on  the  ice,  that  they  may  get  rid  of  it  as  a 
nuisance  ;  and,  in  general,  it  cannot  be  given  away 
— people  will  not  remove  it  without  being  paid  for 
their  labor.  Such  negligence  and  bad  farming  are 
much  to  be  regretted  ;  for  even  the  island  of  Mon- 
treal, beautiful  as  it  is,  would  certainly  be  the  bet- 
ter for  the  manure  which  is  annually  thrown  away, 
and  I  trust  their  new  agricultural  society  will  jfoon 
teach  the  people  a  better  lesson  on  this  subject, 
and  prevent  their  wasting  so  rich  a  treasure. 

34 


394  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


:A 


In  the  costume  of  the  French  gentry  in  Canada, 
there  is  nothing  pecii!  ar.  'J  he  peasantry  fre(|uent- 
\y  wear  a  blue  or  red  woollen  CcTp,  tailing  back  in  a 
pendant  cone,  and  many  of  them  wt-ar  a  red  or 
oarty-colored  woo'len  sash  around  their  waists  — 
They  are  very  fond  of  tobacco,  anti  aie  f'equently 
observed  smoking  with  a  short  pipe,  wh>!e  t'u\)  are 
walking  or  driving  their  curts.  We  were  suflicient- 
ly  amused,  at  seeing  a  common  Frenchman  driv  ug 
a  cart  of  dry  straw  in  the  streets  of  Montreal,  while 
he  was  sitting  immediately  before  it,  smoking  his 
pipe  quite  unconcerned,  although  a  strong  wind 
was  blowing  the  sparks  directly  toward^  the  straw, 
A  day  or  two  after,  we  met  another,  also  smoking, 
and  with  the  utmost  sang  froid^  sitting  in  the  midst 
of  his  load  of  straw. 

We  visited  a  number  of  villages,  and  went  into 
several  houses  of  the  peasantry,  besides  looking 
into  many  others,  particularly  around  Quebec,  the 
delightful  weather  causing  them  to  throw  their  win- 
dows wide  open.  Most  of  the  cottages  are  con- 
structed of  logs,  nicely  84|uared,  and  laid  up;  the 
angles  are  framed  or  halved  together,  the  seams  are 
made  tight  by  plaister,  good  windows  and  doors  are 
titted  in,  the  roofs  are  generally  of  shingles,  the 
whole  is  tight  against  the  weather,  and  neatly  white- 
washed, roof  and  all;  at  least,  this  is  commonly 
the  fact  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  1  have  already  men- 
tioned thfit  the  belter  sort  of  cottages  are  built  of 
stone,  sometimes  covered  with  cement  and  some- 


^,M 


i\ 


hbec. 

[I  Canada, 

fre(|U<-nt- 

back  in  a 

a   red  or 
•  waists  — 
frequently 
!e  Xhr)  are 
'  giifliciont- 
(landriv  ug 
;real,  while 
-moking  his 
trong   wind 
?  the  straw, 
so  smoking, 

in  the  midst 

)d  went  into 
ides  looking 
Quebec,  the 
iw  their  win- 
res  are  con- 
aid  up ;  the 
he  seams  arc 
ind  doors  are 
shingles,  the 
neatly  white- 
s  commonly 
already  men- 
are  built  of 
nt  and  some- 


I 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  A\D  QUEBEC.  395 

times  not.  Inside,  the  houses  appear  very  comfort- 
able :  they  are  plastered  or  waiuscoated,  and  each 
mansion  is  furnished  with  an  ample  stove,  usually 
standif  g  in  the  middle  of  a  large  room,  or  in  the 
partition  of  two,  or  in  the  common  angle  of  several. 
There  are  large  out  houses,  barns,  &c.  built  in  much 
the  same  manner  as  the  houses. 

We  had  occasion  several  times  to  call  at  the  hous- 
es of  the  peasantry  for  milk,  or  something  else  that 
we  wanted.  The  milk  was  very  rich,  and  for  a 
trifle,  was  bountifully  furnished.  The  manners  of 
the  French  in  Canada,  are  extremely  courteous  and 
kind  ;  those  of  the  gentry  are  of  course  polished, 
but  the  common  people,  also,  have  a  winning  gen- 
tleness and  suavity,  and  a  zealous  forwardness  to 
serve  you,  which,  particularly  in  the  villages,  de- 
lighted us  very  much.  Even  the  common  "  oui 
Monsieur,''^  is  uttered  in  a  manner  so  different  from 
the  blunt  coldness  of  our  common  people,  who  fre- 
quently also  forget  the  Monsieur,  that  wc  were 
much  struck  with  the  difference.* 

The  women,  of  course,  excel  the  men,  in  all  that 
is  bland  in  manner,  and  obliging  in  conduct ;  there 
is  aho  a  lady-like  self-possession  about  them;  they 
do  not  appear  at  all  embarrassed,  by  the  quc>tions 
of  a  stranger,  but  aii^iwer  them  with  the  ease  and 
politeness  of  higher  Hfe,  without  relinquishing  the 
simplicity  of  manners  appropriate  to  their  uwn  con- 

*  Wo  were  treated  with  much  kiDdness  by  all  classes  of  people 
in  Cuuada. 


/rtmi-  I 


I        \ 


\         \ 


396  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUEHEC. 

(lition.  It  would  seem  from  the  citations  which  1 
have  made  from  Charlevoix,  that  there  have  been 
in  these  respects,  no  serious  changes  in  a  century. 
After  our  visit  to  the  Chaudiere,  being  late  and  in 
haste,  we  asked  for  some  milk  at  a  peasant's  door, 
without  meaning  to  go  in;  the  milk  was  instantly 
produced,  but  we  must  not  drink  it  at  the  door; 
"entrez  Monsieur,"  "entrez  Monsieur,"  waskind- 
iy  repeated  by  the  woman  of  the  house,  and  we 
went  in;  she  seated  us  around  a  table,  and  furnish- 
ed us  with  a  bowl  of  tine  milk,  and  with  tumblers 
to  drink  it  out  of. 

Mr.  W was  much  gratified  to  find  that  the 

manners  of  the  peasantry  of  Canada  remained  pre- 
cisely like  those  of  France.  Like  the  people  of 
the  parent  country,  they  continue  very  fond  of  mu- 
sic ;  wc  frequently  heard  the  violin  in  the  streets 
of  the  towns  and  villages.  At  Beauport,  we  saw 
them  dancing  merrily  at  a  wedding,  which  had  just 
been  celebrated  at  noon  day,  and  the  bride  and 
bridegroom  were  walking  home,  neatly  dressed, 
hand  in  hand,  and  with  a  cheerful  air. 

There  are  May  poles  in  most  of  their  villages ; 
iiomo  of  them  are  very  high,  and  splendidly  painted ; 
they  voluntarily  erect  them  as  a  mark  of  respect  be- 
fore the  door  of  the  man  in  the  village,  whom  they 
wish  to  honour  as  their  best  citizen,  and  gaily 
dance  around  them  on  the  first  of  May.  They 
are  very  fond  of  dogs — in  the  towns,  thoy  are  from 
their  numbers,  a  perfect  nuisance,  and  lately  at  Que- 


\ 


A 


Eli  EC. 


10UR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  397 


ns  which  1 

have  been 

a  century. 

late  and  in 

sant's  door, 

as  instantly 

t  the  door; 

,"  waskind- 

ise,  and  we 

and  furnish- 

ith  tumblers 

find  that  the 
smained  pre- 
[le  people  of 
J  fond  of  mu- 
n  the  streets 
)ort,  we  saw 
hich  had  just 
le  bride  and 
atly   dressed, 

heir  villages ; 
hdly  painted; 
of  respect  be- 
e,  whom  they 
;n,  and  gaily 
May.  They 
they  are  from 
lately  at  Que- 


. 


bee,  a  verdict  of  fifty  pounds,  was  given  by  a  jury, 
for  the  shooting  of  a  dog  by  a  gentleman  at  whom 
he  flew.  The  death  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond, 
seems  not  to  have  excited  any  particular  dread  of 
dogs. 


Lower  Canada  is  a  fine  country,  and  will  hereaf- 
ter become  populous  and  powerful,  especially  as 
the  British  and  Anglo-American  population  shall 
flow  in  more  extensively,  and  impart  more  vigour 
and  activity  to  the  community. 

The  climate,  notwithstanding  its  severity,  is  a 
good  one  and  very  healthy,  and  favorable  to  the 
freshness  and  beauty  of  the  human  complexion. 
All  tl)e  most  important  comforts  of  life  are  easily 
and  abundantly  obtained,  although  the  expenses  of 
living  are  high,  considering  the  fertility  of  the 
country. 

A  more  correct  knov.lcdge  of  Canada,  is  now 
fast  diffusing  itself  through  the  American  States, 
since  the  intercourse  is  become  so  easy,  and  I  be- 
lieve few  Americans  from  the  States,  now  visit  this 
country,  without  returning  more  favourably  impress- 
ed, respect  ng  it  han  they  expected  to  be.  It  will 
be  happy  if  friendly  sentiments  and  the  interchange 
of  mutual '  ourtesie  shall  do  away  the  unfounded 
i  ipressions  and  prejudices  of  both  communities. 
Commercial  intercourse  between  the  two  countricF. 

34* 


,  i 


\     ' 


\' 


! 


u\ 


'1 

I  hi 


398  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

is  also  important,  and  1  presume,  mutually  advanta- 
gco.is,  and  will  probably  continue  to  increase. 
The  commen  ial  men  in  Canada  are  principally 
British  and  American. 


V 


i' 


DEPARTURE  FKOM  CANADA. 

We  left  Montreal  on  the  morning  of  the  four- 
teenth, in  a  thick  snow,  which  however  soon  ceas- 
ed ;  the  crystals  of  snow  were  all  single  prisms,  or 
two  prisms,  united  at  an  angle,  and  not  the  usual 
star  of  six  rays.  The  first  snow  of  the  season  fell 
the  day  before,  when  I  was  on  the  mountain  of 
Montreal. 

The  country  and  the  appearance  of  the  people 
between  Montreal  and  St.  Johns,  on  the  river  Sor- 
el,  a  distance  of  twenty-seven  miles,  are  so  similar 
to  what  1  have  atready  described,  that  i  find  little 
to  add. 

From  Montreal  to  Chambly,  fifteen  miles,  is  a 
perfectly  flat  alluvial  co  mtry,  with  a  deep  rich  soil, 
and  appears  to  have  been  a  mere  swamp,  till  cul- 
tivation had  redeemed  it.  The  road  I. as  been  made 
by  ditching  and  embankment,  and  considering  the 
nature  of  the  country,  the  road  is  not  bati. 

Chambly  is  a  considerably  jarge  town,  for  Cana- 
da;  containsafew  good  andsome  handsome  houses, 
extensive  barracks,*  both  for  infantry  and  cavalry, 
and  a  few  troops. 

♦  Errttcd,  principally,  during  the  late  war,  when   it  was  a 
great  military  statioo 


\ 


UEBCC. 


Uy  advanta- 

0    increase. 

principally 


of  the  four- 
ir  soon  ceas- 
le  prisms,  or 
lot  the  usual 
e  season  fell 
mountain    of 

the    people 

le  river  Sor- 

are  so  similar 

t  1  find  little 

1  miles,  is  a 
eep  rich  soil, 
imp,  till  ctd- 
as  been  made 
nsidering  the 
53;). 

vn,  for  Cana- 
some  houses, 
and  cavalry, 

,  when   it  was  a 


^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  399 

There  is  here  an  interesting  remnant  of  the  old 
French  dominion.  It  is  a  square  fort  of  stone, 
probably  forty  feet  high,  and  two  hundred  feet  on 
the  ground,  on  each  of  its  sides.  It  has  square 
towers,  projecting  from  each  of  its  angles,  so  tiiat 
every  approach  to  it  could  be  completely  enfiladed 
by  three  tiers  of  cannon.  We  were  permi.ted  to 
visit  the  insi«ie,  which  is  a  square  open  to  the 
heavens,  although  the  walls  are  so  thick,  as  to  con- 
tain numerous  enclosed  apartments.  The  P^'ench 
mi  itary  works,  in  this  country  are  highly  respecta- 
ble, considering  the  immaturity  of  the  country,  when 
they  were  erected,  and  the  length  of  time  that  has 
elnpsed  since  most  of  them  were  constructed.  The 
fort,  (or  perhaps  it  might  more  properly  be  called 
the  Castle)  of  Chambly  has  the  date  1711,  cut  in 
the  stone  near  the  portcullis.  This  fortress  was 
taken  by  General  Montgomery,  in  1775,  previously 
to  the  surrender  of  the  Fort  at  St.  Johns. 

At  Chambly,  the  river  Sorel,  which  both  above 
and  below  is  sluggish,  (at  least  it  is  so,  near  its 
mouth  and  at  St.  John's)  becomes  very  lively,  roar- 
ing over  a  rocky  bottom  and  forming  a  pretty,  al- 
though not  an  impetuous  rapid.  In  the  only  place 
upon  its  banks,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  to  see 
any  of  the  rocks,  th«*y  were  flat  secondary  lime- 
stone, covered  by  slate. 

From  Chambly  to  St.  Johns,  twelve  miles,  there 
is  a  beautiful  country,  al  )ng  the  bank  of  the  river; 
the  population  is  a  numerous  one,  and  in  summer, 


'.     . 


7i 


(■ 


'tl 


^ 


H 


400  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

this  must  be  one  of  the  finest  rides  that  a  flat  coun- 
try can  prf s^iit. 

Near  Ch^mbly,  baton  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
there  is  »  iaruje  and  handsome  house,  belonging  to 
General  Christie  Burton,  who  has  there  an  estab- 
lishment of  mills. 

We  arrived  in  the  town  of  St.  John^sin  the  after- 
noon. We  were  very  conifortabiy  accommodated 
at  Cameron's  Inn ;  but  St.  John's  is  a  place  in 
which  a  stranger  will  not  wish  to  remain  long.  Al- 
though the  country  is  fertile  about  it,  its  appearance 
is  mean,  dirty  and  disagreeable.  A  few  troops  are 
stationed  here,  but  the  ancient  fort,  which  was  very 
extensive,  and  still  looks  very  venerable,  with  Its 
high  earthen  walls  and  falling  barracks,  is  an  interes- 
ting ruin.  It  was  captured  in  1775  by  General 
Montgomery,  after  a  gallant  defence,  and  a  consid- 
erably protracted  seige. 

This  place  was  an  important  post  during  the 
French  wars,  and  even  during  the  revolutionary 
war:  the  same  was  true  ofChambly,  and  both  have 
been  taken  and  retaken,  although  I  do  not  remem- 
ber any  very  memorable  event,  that  has  signalized 
their  transfer  from  one  power  to  another. 

In  wandering  about  the  ruins  of  the  fort,  1  ob- 
served the  cemetery  of  the  garrison  ;  their  monu- 
ments are  boards  painted  black,  and  the  inscription 
is  in  white  painted  letters. 


4^, 


S6EC. 

flat  couQ- 


rOVU    BETWEEN    HARTFOluD  AND  QITEnEC.    401 


the  river, 
onging  to 
aa  estab- 

the  after- 
nmodated 

place  in 
3ng.  Al- 
ppearance 
roops  are 
\  was  very 
,  with  its 
m  interes- 
r  General 

a  consid- 

uring  the 
olutionary 
)Oth  have 
)t  remem- 
signalized 

ort,  1  ob- 
eir  monu- 
nscription 


October  15. — At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we 
left  St.  John's  in  the  steam  boat  Congress,  and  al- 
though encountering  both  an  opposing  wind  and 
current,  we  swept  along  with  great  rapidity,  in  one 
of  the  swiftest  and  best  boats  that  1  have  ever  seen. 
She  is  not  large,  but  is  fitted  up  with  great  neat- 
ness, and  every  thing  about  her  is  in  fine  order. 

We  soon  passed  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  which,  as 
observed  in  the  passage  down,  has  also  been  cele- 
brated in  the  military  history  of  these  countries,  and 
is  now  fortified  and  occupied  by  a  considerable 
force.  Troops  appeared  to  be  engaged  in  throw- 
ing up  additional  works.  There  are  large  bar- 
racks on  this  island,  and  numbers  of  officers  reside 
here,  on  (his  low  spot  of  only  eighty-five  acres,  in 
what  appears  to  be  a  gloomy  exile.  This  island  is 
particularly  important  to  the  naval  command  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  here  the  unfortunate  Captain 
Downie's  squadron  was  fitted  out. 

fn  passing  into  Canada,  I  remarked,  that  the 
country  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  quite  to  the 
lake,  is  a  dismal  low  swamp,  with  only  inconsider- 
able clearings  and  settlements.  It  is  said,  howev" 
er,  to  be  healthy. 

At  Rouse's  Poin^  at  the  confluence  of  the  river 
Sorel  with  Lake  Champlain,  we  again  passed  the 
strong  stone  work  recently  erected  by  the  United 


J 


'^, 


'hi 


1 


402    TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 

States  to  command  the  river,  and  now  about  to  fall 
to  the  British  government. 

Once  more  we  were  in  our  own  waters,  and  in  a 
short  time  passed  around  Cumberland  Head,  which 
is  composed  of  flat  strata  of  secondary  limestone. 


M" 


h 


PLATTSBURGH  BAY. 

The  fine  capacious  Bay  of  Pittsburgh  was  now 
before  us,  and  the  town  of  the  same  name.  The 
important  military  events  which  have  occurred 
here,  are  too  recent  and  familiar  to  make  any  very 
particular  notice  of  them  necessary.  This  is  still 
a  military  station,  and  when  one  sees  the  position 
occupied  by  the  British  army  before  it  in  1814, 
and  contemplates  their  numbers,  compared  with 
the  feeble  force  which  so  gallantly  opposed  them, 
he  is  astonished  that  they  did  not  at  once  storm  and 
carry  the  foits,  and  annihilate  all  opposition.  Ev- 
ery one  here  says  that  they  might,  with  the  great- 
est ease,  have  done  it.*  We  were  on  shore,  and 
visited  some  of  the  works. 

We  learned  the  exact  position  of  Commodore 
Macdonough's  fleet,  and  passed  over  this  portion 
of  the  bay.  We  conversed  with  numbers  of  per- 
mit doubtless  would  hare  been  attempted,  had  the  fleet  been 
victorious;  but  after  its  destruction,  the  acquisitioD  of  the  forts 
would  perhaps  have  beea  of  little  use. 


L'm«4' 


!v 


7EDEC. 

•out  to  fall 

's,  and  in  a 
ead,  which 
nestone. 


h  was  now 
ime.  The 
5  occurred 
le  any  very 
This  is  still 
he  position 
it  in  1814, 
pared  with 
osed  them, 
:  storm  and 
ition.  Ev- 
1  the  great- 
shore,  and 

Jommodore 
his  portion 
eis  of  per- 

Ihe  fleet  been 
10  of  the  forts 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  403 

sons  who  were  witnosses  of  (he  action,  and  some  of 
whom  wore  on  board  immediately  after  it  was  ter- 
mii.ateci.  We  passed  dose  to  the  small  island,  call- 
ed Crab  Island,  to  which  ihe  dead  and  wounded  of 
botii  fleets  were  carried,  and  which  was  the  com- 
mon grave  of  h'if»dreds  of  friend:-  and  foes.  The 
particular  delruU  of  Ihe  scenes  of  horror  which  at- 
tended and  succeeded  the  battle — of  the  shocking 
mutilations  of  the  human  form,  in  every  imnginable 
mode  and  decree, and  of  the  appalling  display  on  the 
beach,  of  so  many  bodies,  dead  and  wounded,  pre- 
paratory to  their  conveyance  either  to  the  hospital 
or  to  the  grave,  I  shall,  for  very  obvious  reasons, 
omit.  Even  now,  their  bones,  slightly  buried  on  a 
rocky  island,  are  partly  exposed  to  view,  or,  being 
occasionally  turned  up  by  the  roots  of  the  trees, 
blown  down  by  the  wind,  shock  the  beholder;  and 
the  buttons,  and  other  parts  of  their  clothes,  (for 
the  military  dresses  in  which  they  were  slain,  were 
also  their  winding  sheets,)  are  often  seen  above 
ground.  Long  may  it  be,  ere  the  waters  of  this 
now  peaceful  lake  are  again  crimsoned  with  hu- 
man blood ! 

One  remarkable  fact  I  shall  mention,  on  the  au- 
thority of  an  American  surgeon,  who  attended  up- 
on the  wounded  of  both  fleets.  The  Americans  re- 
covered much  faster  than  the  British,  where  their 
injuries  were  similar;  healthy  granulations  formed, 
and  the  parts  united  and  healed  more  readily.  Thii 
was  imputed  to  the  different  state  of  mind  in  the 
victors  and  in  the  vanquished. 


\ 


i 


'7, 


11 


a 


»«r^ 


404   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  ANI>    QUEBEC. 


M 


ANECDOTES. 

A  British  officer  in  Canada,  of  his  own  accord, 
spoke  to  me  in  the  highe.st  terms  of  the  American 
navy,  and  of  its  officers.  He  metitioned  Captain 
Hull  particularly,  with  a  frankness  of  commenda- 
tion, that  was  equally  honorable  to  himself,  and  to 
the  subject  of  his  praise.  He  said  that  an  officer  of 
the  Guerriere,  who  was  on  board  of  that  frigate 
when  she  was  captured  by  Captain  Hull,  narrated 
to  him  the  circumstance  to  which  I  am  about  to 
allude. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  Captain  Hull  was 
standing  before  the  wind,  a  little  east  of  north,  with 
all  sail  set,  when  he  descried  the  Guerriere,  under 
double  reefs,  standing  on  a  wind,  to  the  southward 
and  westward.  The  Constitution  then  hauled  to, 
shortened  sail,  and  prepared  for  action ;  immedi- 
ately after  which,  she  resumed  her  course  before 
the  wind,  and  commenced  bearing  down  upon  the 
Guerrie»e.  The  latter  ship  having  tacked,  so  as 
to  bring  her  bowsprit  to  the  northward  and  east- 
ward, having  her  main  top-sail  aback,  and  being 
about  two  miles  distant,  (that  is,  at  long  cannon 
shot,)  fired  her  broadside,  but  it  was  not  returned 
by  the  Constitution.  The  Guerriere  then  wore, 
as  short  round  as  possible,  and  gave  her  antagonist 
the  other  broadside  ;  still  the  fire  was  not  returned  ; 
but  Captain  Hull,  with  hU  ship  in  fighting  trim,  con- 
tinued to  bear  down  upon  his  adversary,  who,  find- 


lEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Q,UBREC.  405 


I  accord, 

merican 

Captain 

Dmenda- 

f,  and  to 

officer  of 

it  frigate 

narrated 

about  to 

Hull  was 
)rth,  with 
re,  under 
outhward 
lauled  to, 
;  immedi- 
rse  before 
I  upon  the 
ed,  so   as 
and  east- 
and  being 
ig  cannon 
,  returned 
fien  wore, 
antagonist 

returned; 
;  trim,  con- 

who,  find- 


ing that  he  was  thu-^  pressed,  continued,  on  his  part, 
to  wear  and  to  fire,  firet  one  broadside  and  then  the 
othrr;  to  «ll  this,  however,  Captain  Hull  paid  no 
attention,  hut  continuing  to  recieve  the  fire  of  the 
Gnerrierc  without  returning  it,  pressed  forward, 
till  he  was  now  very  near.  The  Guerriere  then 
put  before  the  wind,  lo  make  a  running  fight,  and 
the  Constitution  followed  on,  directly  astern,  till 
finding  that  the  G'.ierriere  would  outsail  her,  she 
spread  more  canvass,  when  she  gained  so  fast  upon 
the  chase,  that  she  was  soon  enabled  to  take  her 
position  upon  the  larboard  side  of  her  antaj;o:»ist, 
and  to  deliver  her  fire  at  very  <',lose  quarters,  when 
the  mizen-mast  of  the  Guerriere  was  shot  away. 
It  was  this  crisis  of  the  afftur  that  excited  so  much 
admiration  among  the  British  officers.  They  ima- 
gined, that  it  was  in  the  power  of  Capt.  Hull,  to 
choose  whether  he  would  tack,  and  lie  across  the 
stern  of  his  adversary,  so  as  to  rake  her  with  com- 
parative impunity; — or  to  shoot  along  side,  and 
thus  give  his  antagonist  an  opportunity  to  defend 
herself.  The  Constitution  had,  as  yet,  sustained 
very  little  damage,  and  it  was  obviously  the  inten- 
tion of  her  brave  commander,  not  to  give  his  fire, 
till  he  could  come  to  close  quarters.  The  British 
officers  considered  it  as  giving  also  to  the  Guerriere, 
an  opportunity  of  defending  herself.  "It  was  the 
noblest  thing  (added  a  gentleman  with  whom  I  was 
conversing,)  that  was  ever  done  in  a  naval  con- 
flict."— The  compliment  thus  paid  to  the  ma^nu 

35 


\ 


\ 


'% 


406    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    ((UEBEG. 


'I 
I 


i 


f 


H  i 


y  ' 


\    IN:' 


f 


nimity  of  Capt.  Hull,  however  gratifying  to  an 
American,  must  not  be  admitted,  without  some 
qualification — whatever  might  have  been  the  im- 
pressions of  the  British  officers,  the  opinion  of  na- 
val men  of  the  first  eminence  in  this  country,  is, 
that  Capt.  Hull  chose  the  position,  best  fitted  to 
accomplish  his  object,  and  that  in  no  part  of  this 
conflict,  did  he  give  eveti  a  momentary  advantage 
to  his  enemy.  The  result  of  this  battle  is  well 
known — the  ships  continued  fighting,  at  close  quar- 
ters, till  the  Constitution,  attempting  to  lay  the 
Guerriere  aboard  on  the  larboard  bow,  shot  a  head 
and  crossed  her  bows,  when  her  main  and  mizen- 
mast  fell,  and  she  struck  her  colours.* 

A  gentleman  at  Montreal,  mentioned  to  us,  that  a 
public  dinner  was  given  at  Terrebonne,  a  small 
town  a  little  way  below  Montreal,  to  Commodore 

*  Upon  preparing  the  former  edition  of  this  work,  my  im* 
pressions  coincided  with  those  of  the  British  officers — but  a  more 
minute  examination  since,  of  the  circumstances  of  the  action, 
(with  the  aid  of  the  opinions  of  some  of  the  ablest  naval  men  in 
this  country,)  has  induced  me  to  ado(it  a  different  opinion.  I 
understand,  that  the  speedy  fall  of  the  masts  of  the  Guerriere 
was  the  effect  of  marksminshipf  and  not  an  accidental  result  of 
random  firing.  The  crew  of  the  Guerriere  appear  to  have  been, 
in  some  measure,  disconcerted,  by  their  previous  efforts  in  wear- 
ing so  often,  and  in  firing  so  many  broadsides,  and  by  the 
singularly  cool  and  undaunted  manner  in  which  the  Constitution 
bore  down  upon  them.  It  is  a  fact  that  they  fired  badly,  both  as 
to  rapidity  and  direction,  and  often  did  nut  even  run  their  ^uns 
out  of  their  port  holes,  but  tore  tboir  own  wooden  walls  with 
their  own  discharges. — 1824. 


1 


rEBBO. 

ang  to  an 
liout  some 
;n  the  im- 
nion  of  na- 
oimtry,  is, 
st  fitted  to 
•art  of  this 
advantage 
tie   is  well 
close  quar- 
to lay   the 
shot  H  head 
and  mizen- 

to  us,  that  a 
me,  a  small 
Commodore 

work,  my  im- 
rs — but  a  more 
I  of  the  action, 
st  naval  men  in 
ent  opinion.     I 

the  Guerriere 
dental  result  of 
arte  have  been, 

efforts  in  wear- 
es,  and  by  the 
Lhe  Constitution 
d  badly,  both  as 
I  run  their  ^'uns 
odea  walls  with 


r] 


TOUR  BBTWCEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  407 

Barclay,  after  his  signal  defeat  by  Commodore  Per- 
ry on  Lake  Erie.  Barclay,  who  was  sadly  cut  to 
pieces  by  wounds,  of  which  he  was  hardly  recover- 
ed, and  his  remaining  arm  (for  he  had  lost  the  oth- 
er before,)  being  suspended  in  a  sling,  gave  as  a 
volunteer  toast,  "Commodore  Perry — the  brave 
and  humane  enemy."  Commodore  Barclay  then 
entered  into  a  detailed  account  of  Perrv's  treatment 
of  himself,  and  of  the  other  wounded  and  prisoners, 
who  fell  into  his  hands;  and  in  narrating  the  story, 
he  became  himself  so  deeply  affected,  that  the  tears 
flowed  copiously  down  his  cheeks.  The  audience 
were  scarcely  less  moved;  and  how  could  it  be 
otherwise,  when  the  speaker,  who,  but  a  few  weeks 
before,  had,  without  dismay,  faced  the  tremendous 
cannonade  of  his  enemy,  could  not  now,  without 
tears  of  admiration  and  gratitude,  relate  his  deeds 
of  kindness  to  himself  and  his  companions,  when 
suffering  under  wounds  and  defeat.  O!  this  was  a 
nobler  triumph  for  Perry,  than  the  victory  which 
God  granted  to  his  arms! 


Scarcely  had  we  been  gratified  by  the  above 
anecdote,  when  the  New-York  newspapers,  which, 
in  our  parlour  at  Montreal,  we  were  cheerfully  pe- 
ru^'ing,  informed  us,  that  the  brave,  magnanimous, 
and  gentle  Perry,  had  fallen — not  in  battle  on  the 
water,  but  by  a  fever,  in  a  foreign  land.  The  news 
would  have  been  sufficiently  painful  at  home,  but 


(t 


i| 


.  ■  1 

( 


'td 


/J 


At- 


i 


^^ 


.  t 


408  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

among  strangers,  and  those  who  were  so  recently 
our  public  enemies,  it  gave  us  a  severe  shock  :  we 
not  only  felt  that  it  was  a  public  loss,  but  we  nei- 
ther could  realize,  nor  wished  to  do  so,  that  it  was 
not  our  own  private  bereavement.  Few  men  of 
his  age,  have  done  more  to  serve  and  honour  their 
country  than  Perry,  although  we  must  still  regret 
that  he  gave  his  saitction  to  duelling. 


After  a  rapid  sail  across  the  lake,  and  seeing  the 
spot  where  the  Phoenix  was  burnt,  and,  at  a  greater 
distance,  the  ror.ky  channel  through  which  General 
Arnold  in  1776,  escaped  the  pursuit  of  the  British 
fleet,  we  arrived,  early  in  the  evening,  at  Burling- 
ton, where  the  carriage  was  in  waiting  to  receive  us. 

Bofore  leaving  the  steam-boat  Congress,  I  will 
remark,  that,  under  the  auspices  of  her  present 
commander,  the  younger  Captain  Sherman,  who 
also  commanded  the  Phoenix  when  she  was  de- 
stroyed, vigorous  measures  have  been  adopted  to 
prevent  a  recurrence  of  a  similar  accident,  and  that 
we  were  much  pleased  with  his  management  of  the 
boat. 


u 


UKBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HATITFORD    AND    ^UEISEC.    409 


JO  recently 
shock :  we 
t)ut  we  nei- 
,  that  it  was 
\»w  men  of 
lonour  their 
still  regret 


d  seeing  the 
at  a  greater 
[lich  General 
f  the  British 
,  at  Burling- 
to  receive  us. 


ngress 


1  will 


her  present 
herman,  who 

she  was  de- 
in  adopted  to 
dent,  and  that 
gement  of  the 


BURLINGTON,  IN  VERMONT,  TO  HANOVER,  IN  NEW- 
HAMPSHIRE,  84  MILES. 

We  were  on  the  road  three  days,  and,  as  it  is 
not  remarkably  interesting,  except  for  its  wild  Al- 
pine scenery,  I  shall  give  but  a  sketch  of  it. 

Burlington  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in 
New-England.  It  stands  on  a  bay,  of  the  same 
name,  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  has  a  population  of 
probably  nearly  two  thousand.  Rising  rapidly 
from  the  lake,  and  occupying  the  declivity  and  top 
of  a  high  hill — abounding  with  elegant  houses — 
generally  large,  and  painted  white — having  several 
handsome  public  buildings,  and  (the  most  conspic- 
uous and  commanding  of  them  all,)  a  college,  situa- 
ted on  the  most  elevated  ground,  three  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water;  the  im- 
pressions which  it  makes  on  a  stranger,  are  very 
agreeable,  and  the  more  so,  as  it  is  scarcely  forty 
years  since  this  region  was  a  wilderness.  Its  build- 
ings are,  a  court  house,  a  jail,  an  academy,  a  col- 
lege, two  handsome  houses  of  public  worship,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  dwelling-houses,  and  forty-three 
stores,  oflices,  and  mechanics'  shops.  It  is  the 
most  commercial  place  on  the  lake.* 

The  college  editice,  is  a  brick  building,  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  long,  from  forty  five  to  seventy- 
five  wide,  and  four  stones  high.     This  institution 


si 


♦  Worcester's  Gazetteer. 
36* 


410    TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD   AND    (QUEBEC. 


was  founded  in  1791|  under  the  appellation  of  the 
University  of  Vermont.  The  building  is  commo- 
dious; it  contains  about  fifty  private  room?,  and 
good  public  apartments.  This  edifice  stands  in  a 
most  delightful  situation,  and  from  the  top  of  it,  to 
which  I  ascended,  there  is  a  grand  and  extensive 
prospect,  although,  in  the  present  instance,  it  was 
obscured  by  a  fog.  The  number  of  students  was 
stated  to  me,  by  one  of  the  tutors,  to  be  from  thirty 
to  forty.*  It  is  well  known  that,  in  the  Vermont 
republic  of  letters,  ther3  is  a  divisum  imperium,  and 
that  the  two  rival  institutions  of  Middlebury  and 
Burlington,  have  long  contended  for  pre-eminence. 

It  doi-'s  not  become  a  stranger  to  make  any  other 
remark,  than  that,  in  a  state  of  no  greater  popula- 
tion, the  united  eiForts  of  all  the  friends  of  ic"  ^inn; 
are  not  more  than  sufheient  to  sustain  one  i.  n.-u- 
tion,  as  it  ought  to  be  supported;  it  is  to  be  hoped 
therefore,  that  Vermont  may,  in  due  time,  combine 
all  her  efforts,  and  blend  her  two  institutions  into 
one. 

Burlington  college  has  a  library  of  about  eight  or 
nine  hundred  volumes,  and  a  small  apparatus.  It 
is  but  just  recovering  from  a  state  of  partial  disor- 
ganization, produced  by  the  late  war,  when,  for  a 
season,  the  building  was  occupied  by  troops  of  the 
United  Slates,  and  Mars  put  the  muses  to  flight. 
The  concession,  however,  it  was  understood,  wan 


*  The  number  in  Oct.  1833,  was  63  claiiical,  and  65  medical 
atudanti. 


I^VEBEC. 

ition  of  the 
g  is  commo- 
room?,  and 
stands  in  a 
top  of  it,  to 
id  extensive 
ance,  it  was 
students  was 
e  from  thirty 
he  Vermont 
nperiunif  and 
dlebury  and 
•e-eminence. 
ke  any  other 
later  popula- 
Is  of  U 


•\}rttr 


1  one  i,  <i.  u 
to  be  hoped 
me,  combine 
titutions  into 

bout  eight  or 
)paratus.  It 
)artial  disor- 
when,  for  a 
troops  of  the 
scs  to  flight, 
erstood,  wan 

,  and  65  medical 


TOUR    BBTWEBrf    HARTFORD    AND    (tUEBEC.     411 

not  compulsory,  and  was  handsom'.'ly  paid  for  by 
the  general  government.  The  faculty,  when  full, 
consists  of  a  President,  five  professors,  and  two  tu- 
tors. At  present,  there  is  a  Presidejit,*  one  pro- 
fessor, and,  I  believe,  two  tutors,  who  constitute  the 
actual  faculty  of  the  institution. 

It  is  worth  a  journey  across  the  green  mountains, 
which  occupy  almost  the  entire  breadth  o(  Ver- 
mont, and  from  which  the  state  derives  its  name,  to 
see  the  grand  views  which  they  present. 

There  is  in  fact,  a  succession  of  mountains,  one, 
two,  three,  and  four  thousand  feet  high ;  not  here 
and  there  a  single  peak,  but  a  vast  billowy  ocean, 
swelled  into  innumerable  pointed  waves,  and  bold 
ridges,  and  scooped  into  deep  hollows. 

There  were  but  few  precipices  of  naked  rock ; 
most  of  the  sides  of  the  mountains  were  in  full  for- 
est, and  the  varied  hues  of  the  leaves  of  the  maple 
and  oak,  now  beginning  to  receive  the  tirst  indu- 
ence  of  frost,  were  (inely  contrasted  with  the  bright 
evergreens. 

According  to  the  barometrical  measurement  of 
Captain  Partridge,  the  Camel^  Rump,  twenty  miles 
cast  by  south  from  Burlington,  is  about  four  thou- 
sandf  feet  high,  and  many  others  approach  this  ele- 
vation. 

•  The  Rev.  Dr.  Austin— now  (1824,)  Rer.  Daniel  Ha!>kel  and 
six  professurs,  including  lour  in  the  metlicHl  de^hrtment. 

t  Three  thousand  Tour  hundred.— WorcMter^a  Gaxetleer. 


^< 


-/  »«»w. 


i 


I  1 


•  1 


412     TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    QUEBEC. 

The  day  was  somewhat  obscured  by  rain,  mist, 
and  clouds,  which,  while  they  did  not  screen  the 
mountains  from  our  view,  addrd  a  gloomy  gran- 
deur to  the  scene,  and  seemed  the  appropriate  dra- 
pery of  such  Alpine  regions. 

Most  of  the  country  is  still  unsubdued  by  the 
plough.  Innumerable  stumps,  the  remains  of  the 
pristine  forest,  deform  the  fields — pines,  and  other 
trees,  girdled,  dry,  and  blasted,  by  summer's  heat, 
and  winter's  cold — scorched  and  blackened,  by 
tire,  or  piled  in  confusion,  on  fields,  cleared,  half 
by  the  axe,  and  half  by  burning  — numerous  log 
houses,  of  a  rude  construction,  and  incomparably 
inferior  to  the  snug  cottages  of  the  Canadian  peas- 
antry—all these,  and  many  other  objects,  indicate 
a  country,  in  some  parts  at  least,  imperfectly  sub- 
dued by  man 

Along  the  Onion  river,  however,  and  its  branch- 
es, we  found  much  clear,  good  land ;  on  the  sides 
of  the  mountains,  many  fields  fit  for  pasturage,  and, 
almost  every  where,  fine  cattle  and  sheep,  but  very 
little  ploughed  land  ;  every  few  miles  also,  we  came 
to  good  houses,  and  a  few  villages,  occurred  on  the 
journey. 

At  Montpelier,  in  a  low  valley,  forty  miles  from 
the  lake,  we  found  the  legislature  of  Vermont  con- 
Teited. 

Montpelier  is  a  small,  and  rather  neat  village,  of 
about  one  hundred  fiuoilii's  \  the  townrhip.  in  which 
it  ib  fiituated,  contams nearly  two  thousand  people; 


EfiEC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    ANU    qUEBKC.     413 


I ' 


ain,  mist, 
i:reeii  the 
my  gran- 
>riate  dra- 

d  by  the 
ns  of  the 
and  other 
er's  heat, 
cened,  by 
ared,  half 
icrous  log 
omparably 
dian  peas- 
s,  indicate 
fectly  sub- 
its  branch- 
I  the  sides 
irage,  and, 
p,  but  very 
[>,  we  came 
red  on  the 

miles  from 
rmont  con- 
village,  of 
p.  in  which 
ud  people ; 


but  this  place  is  so  secluded,  that  it  seems  as  if  the 
government  had  sought  retirement,  more  than  pub- 
licity, in  fixing  itself  here.  It  is  probable,  howev- 
er, that  it  was  rather  a  regard  to  a  central  position, 
as  this  place  is  only  ten  miles  from  the  centre  of 
the  State. 

At  a  little  village,  where  we  attended  public  wor- 
ship, in  a  very  stormy  day,  we  found  a  very  thin 
congregation,  but,  in  a  new  house,  of  considerable 
size,  and  much  ornamented  within,  althi>ugh,  in 
what  would,  perhaps,  be  by  some,  esteemed  an  erro- 
neous taste,  it  was,  however,  honourable  to  the 
public  spirit  of  the  vicinity. 

We  were  much  impressed  in  Canada,  with  the 
devout  appearance  of  the  Catholics  in  their  reli- 
gious assemblies,  and  cannot  but  think,  that  in  this 
respect,  they  have  the  advantage,  not  only  of  most  of 
the  Protestant  congregations,  in  which  we  have  been 
present  during  our  journey,  but  also  of  the  greater 
part  of  those,  with  which  we  have  been,  elsewhere, 
conversant,  in   Protestant  countries. 

The  Canadian  Catholic  seemsj  at  least,  to  be  de- 
vout, while,  in  our  protestant  assemblies,  how  often 
do  we  see,  if  not  levity,  at  least  vacancy,  languor, 
and  apathy,  and  how  few  appear  to  be,  really  in  ear- 
nest. If  we  say  that  the  Catholic  is  so  in  appear- 
ance only^  he  may  reply,  with  a  force  which  it  will 
not  be  easy  to  obviate,  that  there  is  no  reason  what- 
ever to  infer  the  reality ^  where  there  is  not  so  much 
as  the  external  decorum  of  worship. 


■I 


i\ 


I 


istt 


■■■  i 


414  TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC. 

The  roads  were  good  through  our  whole  journey 
to  Hanover,  except  the  effects  of  recent  rains,  and 
considering  the  mountainous  nature  of  the  country. 

Wherever  practicable,  they  have  followed  the  riv- 
er courses  along  the  alluvial  bottoms,  and,  where 
they  have  wound  around  the  hills,  it  is  done  with 
great  skill  and  judgment.  Very  frequently,  we  rode 
for  miles,  on  precipices,  where  the  descent  was,  for 
a  great  many  yards  down,  almost  perfectly  abrupt, 
and  a  slight  deviation  would  have  been  fatal. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  height  of  land,  which 
was  about  sixty  miles  from  the  lake,  the  streams, 
now  tending  towards  the  Connecticut,  indicated  our 
course,  and,  for  six  or  seven  miles,  we  descended 
with  great  rapidity,  the  carriage  almost  constantly 
urging  the  horses  forward,  and,  at  last,  we  found 
lodgings  in  the  beautiful  valleyof  Chelsea,  complete- 
ly environed  by  mountains,  which,  being  free  from 
wood,  and  prettily  dotted,  here  and  there,  with 
flocks  of  sheep,  reminded  me  powerfully  of  the 
Derbyshire  scenery. 

The  village  was  very  neat,  with  one  of  the  best 
inns  which  we  had  seen ;  we  were  received  with 
the  kindness  of  a  home,  and  with  almost  all  its  com- 
forts. 

'I'he  next  day,  (October  18th,)  we  arrived  at 
Hanover,  in   New-Hampbhire,  having  crossed  the 


•\ 


CREC. 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HAUTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.    415 


le  journey 
rains,  and 
e  country, 
ed  the  riv- 
nd,  where 
done  with 
ly,  we  rode 
nt  was,  for 
]y  abrupt, 
tal. 

nd,  which 
e  streams, 
licated  our 
descended 
constantly 
we  found 
,  complete- 
free  from 
here,  with 
illy  of  the 

if  the  best 
eived  with 
ill  its  corn- 
arrived  at 
rossed  the 


Connecticut  river,  from  the  handsome  town  of  Nor- 
wich,* on  a  bridge. 


GEOLOGY. 

The  geology  of  the  region  over  which  we  had 
passed,  is  simple  and  grand.  About  seven  miles 
castof  the  lake,  the  primitive  country  begins,  and 
the  fixed  rocks,  run  un.^  in  immense  ledges,  north- 
east, and  south-west,  often  vertical,  or  hii;hly  in- 
clined in  their  position,  and  with  a  dip  generally  to 
the  east,  are  principally  mica  slate,  gneiss,  clay 
slate,  and  chlorite  slate.  Mica  slate  is,  far,  the 
most  abundant.     In  some  of  these  schistose  rocks, 

hornblende  prevails,  but  I  observed  no  granite  in 
place.     Granite,   however,  in  loose   rolled   pieces, 

some  of  them  weighing  many  tons,  prevails  for  the 
last  forty  miles ;  there  is  enough  to  build  several  cit- 
ies; it  is  very  handsome,  has  a  fine  grain,  the  feldspar 
is  white,  the  quartz  grey,  and  the  mica  black,  and  it 
is  used  along  the  road  as  a  building  stone;  but  we 
can  discern  no  source  whence  it  was  derived,  nor 
could  1  learn  that  there  were  any  Jixed  rocks  of  the 
kind  in  this  region. 

I  am  informed  that  the  famous  Chelmsford  gran- 
ite so  much  used  in  Boston,  as  a  building  stone, 
and  which  this  Vermont  granite  strongly  resemblesi 

•  Now  celebrated  as  the  seat  of  Captain  Partridge's  very  useful 
and  flourishing  military  and  classicul  academy,  the  building  for 
which,  WM  in  g  ood  progress  at  the  time  of  my  journey.   1824. 


i% 


l/l 


416  TOUR  BETWEKN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


1 


'A 


is  found  loose,  like  this,  and  that  no  quarry  of  it  is 
known. 

In  Vermont,  these  masses  of  granite  have  every 
appearance  of  having  been  brought  down  from  more 
elevated  regions,  for  they  are  observed  in  deep  val- 
lies,  and  on  the  banks,  and  in  the  beds  of  water 
courses,  and  on  the  declivities,  and  even  high  up  on 
the  sides  of  mountains.  But  they  are  rolled  and 
rounded ;  most  of  them  approach  the  globular 
form,  and  all  have  their  angles  and  edges  worn 
away.  Was  this  done  in  the  primitive  chaotic 
ocean,  which  alone  can  afford  time  for  such  an 
agency,  and  may  they  not  even  have  been  trans- 
ported from  a  distant  region,  and  scattered  over  a 
country  to  which  they  are  strangers  ? 


I 'I 


HANOVER. 

I. 

Oct,  18. —  This  neat  village,  of  about  sixty  hous- 
es, is  an  agreeable  object  to  a  traveller.  It  is  built 
principally  upon  a  small  hollow  square,  which 
is  a  beautiful  jjreen.  Most  of  the  houses  are  very 
good,  and  some  are  large  and  handsome.  ^J'he  great- 
er part  are  painted  white,  and  have  that  lively  ap- 
pearance, so  common  in  the  villages  of  New-Eng- 
land. 


M 


:a 


<iVEB£G. 

uarry  of  it  is 

have  every 
n  from  more 

in  deep  val- 
)eds  of  water 
n  high  up  on 
e  rolled  and 
the  globular 

edges  worn 
itive   chaotic 
for  such  an 

been  trans- 
tered  over  a 


t  sixty  hous- 
'•  It  is  built 
uare,  which 
uses  are  very 
.  The  great- 
at  lively  ap- 
r  New-Eng- 


TOUR  BETWEE.V  HARTFORD  AXD  Q,UEbEC.  417 

DARTMOUIH  COLLEGE. 

This  well  known,  and  highly  respectable  and  use- 
ful insiituiinn,  founded  in  1769,  by  rcyal  charter, 
occUiiies  one  side  of  the  square.  The  principal 
building  which  is  of  wood,  is  one  hundred  and  Hfty 
feet  by  fifty,  and  three  stories  high ;  it  is  painted 
white.  Besides  thirty  four  private  rooms  for  the 
stud«!nts,  it  contains  all  the  public  rooms,  except 
those  for  the  medical  lectures,  and  the  chiipel. — 
The  latter  is  asmal  plain  building,  of  wood,  stand- 
ing in  the  jiosit'onofa  wing  to  the  college.  The 
medical  lectures  are  given  in  a  separate  edifice,  built 
of  brick,  a  little  out  of  the  square,  and  devoted  en- 
tirely to  medical  purposes.  The  building  is  not 
large,  hut  sufficient  for  a  school  of  fifty  or  sixty  pu- 
pils who  usually  assemble  here  during  the  season 
of  the  lectures,  which  continues  twelve  weeks,  from 
the  first  Wednesday  of  October.  The  building 
would  receive  more,  so  far  as  its  public  rooms  are 
concerned.     The  anatomical  museum  is  small. 

The  number  of  iiiedical  professors  is,  at  present, 
three.  There  is  th"  same  number*  in  the  academi- 
cal establishment,  who,  with  the  pre5ident,f  and  two 
tutors,  constitute  the  faculty.  The  number  of  stu- 
dents, at  present,  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and 

*  If  I  amcorrortly  informeil,  one  other  professorship  is  at  pres- 
ent vacant. 

t  A  gust,  U)20  — This  institution  h;»s  recently  beea  deprived, 
l)y  deati<,of  its  excellent  hciul,  President  HrowQ. 

36 


k  i 


'^ 


t 


h 


418  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


.  f 


since  the  termination  of  the  recent  contest,  by  which 
the  old  college  has  been  confirmed  in  its  powers,  it 
appears  to  be  flourishing  more  than  before.  During 
that  contest,  and  while  the  buildings  were  in  posses- 
sion of  the  other  parly,  it  is  said  that  they  were  con- 
siderably injured :  they  are  not  now  in  the  best 
state  of  repair,  although  it  was  stated  that  one  thou- 
sand dollars  had  been  expended  upon  them,  since 
their  restoration  to  their  present  possessors. 

The  library  contains  about  four  thousand  vol- 
umes. The  apparatus  of  this  institution  is  not  the 
most  extensive,  but  is  competent  to  the  most  im- 
portant purposes  of  instruction.  There  are  two 
libraries,  of  about  two  thousand  volumes  each,  be- 
longing to  private  societies  among  the  students. 

There  is  a  separate  building  for  commons,  but, 
at  present,  none  are  maintained ;  the  students 
board  in  the  village,  and  many  of  them  occupy 
apartments  in  it.  I  was  informed  that  it  is  op- 
tional with  them  to  have  rooms  in  college,  or  out ; 
but  their  rooms  are,  in  both  cases,  visited  by  the 
faculty,  and,  owing,  without  doubt,  to  the  smaliness 
of  the  place,  no  inconvenience  is  experienced  from 
the  fact,  that  a  part  of  them  are  in  town."*^ 


;^l    i, 


I      i 


*  It  is  UD(]erstood  that  this  InstilutioD  has  flourished,  and  con- 
tinues to  do  so,  under  the  Presidency  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Tyler ;  but 
I  have  no  document  at  hand,  from  which  to  state  the  number  of 
the  students,  or  of  the  faculty. — 18S4. 


■v. 


qUBBEC. 

2st,  by  which 
ts  powers,  it 
ore.  During 
re  in  posses* 
iy  were  con- 
in  the  best 
at  one  thou- 
them,  since 
isors. 

lousand  vol- 
on  is  not  the 
le  most  im- 
cre  are  two 
es  each,  be- 
students. 
mmons,  but, 
he  students 
lem  occupy 
lat  it  is  op- 
ege,  or  out ; 
sited  by  the 
^e  smaliness 
ienced  from 


i?he(],  and  con* 
Mr.  Tyler;  but 
the  number  of 


TOUR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND   QUEBEC.    419 


RIDE  DOWN  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 

Oct.  19. — We  passed  down  the  New-Hampshire 
side  of  the  river,  eighteen  miles,  and  then  crossed 
into  Vermont,  at  the  beautiful  town  of  Windsor, 
containing  two  thousand  seven  hundred  fifty-seven 
inhabitants.^ 

There  was  nothing  particularly  interesting  in  the 
intervening  country.  Windsor  is  built  upon  two 
principal  streets,  parallel  to  each  other,  and  to  the 
river,  and,  in  the  lower  street,  shews  something  of 
the  bustle  of  business ;  the  upper  street  is  very 
quiet,  and  both  are  ornamented  by  very  handsome 
houses,  many  of  them  of  brick,  giTing  on  oir  of  dig- 
nity and  elegance  to  a  small  town.  There  are  also 
two  handsome  churches,  a  court-house,  an  acade- 
my, and  a  state's  prison. 

The  town  has  a  magnificent  back  ground,  in  the 
high  mountain  Ascutney,  measusing  three  thousand 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
two  thousand  nine  hundred  and  three,  above  the 
surface  of  the  river.f  The  form  of  the  mountain  is 
handsome,  and  presents  naked  rocks  at  its  summit. 

From  Windsor,  we  passed  down  the  Vermont 
side  of  the  river,  to  Charlestown,  where  we  again 
crossed  into  New- Hampshire. 

♦  Worcester's  Gazetteer. 

t  According  to  Captain  Partridge's  measurement. 


f 


i 


f; 


r  i- 


'1 


') 


420  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD   AND  CtUEBEC. 

We  saw,  on  our  ride,  the  establisment  of  Mr. 
Jarvis,  formerly  a  consul  abroad.  He  has  a  very 
extensive  farm,  and  an  entire  village,  named  Weth- 
ersfieid,  is  owned  by  him,  and  occupied  by  his  ten- 
ants.    We  passed  the  night  at  Charlestown. 

This  is  another  village  remarkable  for  beauty. 
It  is  built  upon  one  street,  which  is  very  wide,  and, 
for  nearly  a  mile,  the  houses  are  placed  at  distan- 
ces, convenient  both  for  neighborhood  and  accom- 
modation. 

Here,  as  at  Windsor,  a  large  proportion  are  very 
handsome,  and  there  is  an  extreme  degree  of  neat- 
ness in  the  fitiids,  gardens,  and  door  yards.  The 
verdure  being  sliil  tine,  notwithstanding  the  period 
of  the  year,  was  charmingly  contrasted  with  the 
brilliant  white  of  the  houses. 

From  Hanover  to  this  place,  the  river  Connecti- 
cut flows  in  a  narrow  channel,  in  most  places  so 
confined  by  very  high  ground,  and  sometimes  by 
mountains,  that  it  seems  to  run  in  the  only  possible 
place,  and  the  channel  appears  as  if  it  had  been 
cut  by  art,  and  laid  with  exquisite  skill,  through  an 
an  almost  impervious  country.  Rarely  do  the  pre- 
cipitous banks  retire,  so  as  to  leave  any  meadows, 
or  flat  lands  upon  the  border,  and  the  country  ap- 
pears not  remarkably  fertile.  The  pines  still  oc- 
cupy a  considerable  portion  of  it,  but  most  of  the 
large  ones  are  cut  away  ;  here  and  there  an  ancient 
tree  still  raises  its  head  to  the  winds,  attd  towers 
above  its  compeers.     In  many  parts  of  this  region, 


1 


EBEC. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  421 


lent  of  Mr* 
has  a  verj 
med  Weth- 
by  his  ten- 
awn. 

for  beauty. 

wide,  and, 

i  at  distan- 

ind  accom- 

on  are  very 
ree  of  neat- 
ards.  The 
the  period 
;d  with  the 

r  Connecti- 
t  places  so 
Tietimes  by 
ily  possible 
t  had  been 
through  an 
do  the  pre- 
meadows, 
ountry  ap- 
les  still  oc- 
nost  of  the 
;  an  ancient 
and  towers 
this  region. 


very  formidable  fences  are  made  by  pulling  up  the 
stumps  of  the  gigantic  pine  trees,  and  arranging 
them  in  a  row,  with  their  roots  interlocked. 


GEOLOGY. 

The  geology  of  this  district  is  very  simple.  At 
Hanover,  the  rocks  appear  to  be  a  variety  of  gneiss, 
with  so  large  a  proportion  of  hornblende,  as  to  be- 
come almost  horubler^dc  slate;  and  doubtless,  in 
some  instances,  they  become  decidedly  that  rock; 
distinct  veins  of  crystaiiizea  hornblende  intersect 
the  rock,  and  it  abounds  in  garne'-^  remarkable  for 
beauty  ;  their  angles  are  extrei  'e-y  well  defined — 
their  surfaces  highly  poK  b;  d,  and  the':  color  al- 
most as  fine  as  that  of  tl  e  S^inelle  Ruby.  I  have 
seen  no  such  garnets,  from  the  rocks  of  this  coujj- 
try. 

From  Hanover,  we  pass  along  in  the  direction  of 
the  ledges  of  rocks,  which  form  the  hills  bounding 
the  river ;  we  no  longer  cross  them,  as  in  travelling 
over  the  Green  Mountains,  and  it  is  not  always 
easy,  in  driving  rapidly  by,  or  with  the  opportunity 
of  only  a  very  h?  cy  examination,  to  pronounce  con- 
fidently on  their  nature. 

This  may,  however,  be  said,  without  hazard,  that 
they  are  i\i  primitive  slaty  rocks,  generally  highly 

inclined,  or  vertical. 

36* 


;^ 


4lt 


.  *r.v-E4'    sSS. ; 


..  -.-».- ^.  - 


"f"^ 


% 


i 


*      T 


422  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Leaving  Charlestown,  we  passed  by  its  rich  and 
extensive  meadows,  commencing  just  below  the 
town,  and  extending  nearly  to  Bellows  Falls,  a  dis* 
tance  of  eight  miles.  They  were  still  very  verdant, 
and  rich  in  herds  of  fine  cattle. 


BELLOWS  FALLS. 

This  p'Bce  is  worth  visiting,  both  for  its  bold  and 
pictures(|ue  scenery,  and  for  the  interesting  nature 
of  its  mineralogy  and  geology. 

On  approaching  Bellows  Falls  from  the  north, 
the  traveller  is  first  struck  by  the  elegant  appear- 
ance of  the  small  village  of  Rockingham,  situated 
on  the  Vermont  side  of  the  river,  upon  ground 
pleasantly  elevated.  A  neat  church,  semi-gothic, 
and  several  seats  of  gentry,  who  have  clustered 
about  these  falls,  are  finely  contrasted  with  the 
wildness  and  rudeness  of  the  surrounding  scenery. 
On  the  New-Hampshire  side,  a  very  high  ridge  of 
mountain  rock,  I  presume  five  or  six  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river,  forms  its  immediate 
barrier,  there  being  only  just  room  for  a  narrow 
road  between  it  ai.d  the  Connecticut.  Immediate- 
ly at  the  foot  of  this  frowning  and  impending  moun- 
tain, is  an  elegant  establishment,  belonging  to  a 
gentleman  who  seems  not  to  feel  what  every  ob- 
lerver  must  dread,  that  his  house  may  be  crushed 
by  falling  rocks. 


■■') 


J 


QUEBEC. 


Y  its  rich  and 
it  below  the 
i  Falls,  a  dis- 
very  verdant, 


r  its  bold  and 
resting  nature 

►m  the  north, 
sgant  appear- 
lam,  situated 
upon  ground 

semi-gothic, 
ave  clustered 
?tcd  with  the 
ding  scenery, 
high  ridge  of 
hundred  feet 
its  immediate 
for  a  narrow 

Immediatc- 
nnding  moun- 
eloiiging  to  a 
lat  every  ob- 
ly  be  crushed 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPORD  AND  QUEBEC.  423 

Bellows  Falls  are  very  much  unlike  any  thing  of 
the  kind  which  we  have  seen  on  our  journey.  They 
are  rather  a  grand  and  violent  rapid  than  a  cataract, 
properly  so  called  ;  for,  in  no  place  that  I  saw,  did 
the  waterfall  perpendicularly  for  any  great  distance. 
The  river  is,  at  this  place,  very  much  compressed 
between  ledges  of  rocks,  and,  for  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  it  is  hurried  on  with  vast  rapidity,  and 
tumult,  and  roaring.  In  the  whole,  it  falls  fifty 
feet,*  before  it  becomes  again  placid. 

The  bridge,  which  stands  immediately  over  the 
falls,  and  at  the  most  rapid,  that  is  to  say,  at  the 
narrowest  place,  is  a  handsome  object.  Its  founda* 
tion  is  literally  a  rock,  for  it  is  erected  not  only 
upon  the  precipices  which  form  the  banks,  but  up- 
on the  very  ledges  which  interrupt  the  course  of 
the  river,  and  rise  calmly  out  of  the  turbulent  scene 
that  surrounds  them.  This  is  said  to  have  been 
the  earliest  bridge  erected  over  the  Connecticut, 
and  the  view  of  the  falls  from  it  is  very  interesting. 

The  water,  which  for  some  way  above,  comes 
rushing  over,  and  among  very  rugged  rocks,  arrives 
in  an  extremely  agitated  state  at  the  bridge,  under 
which  is  the  grand  pass ;  for  the  stream  is  here 
narrowed  into  the  width  of  apparently  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  and  rushes  through  with  great  rapidity  ; 
not,  however,   in  the  compressed  state  described 

*  Worcester'!  Gazetteer. 


Irv 


I 


u 


\'i 


^^. 


*i 


'4 


!-»• 


* 


i> 


./ 


4" 

4-u 


I 

tf 

J* 

1* 


y.# 


424  TOUR  BBTWEESi  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC* 

by  the  apocryphal  historian  of  Connecticut.* 
It  is  all  foam,  and  both  immediately  above  and  be- 
low the  bridge,  resembles  the  most  violent  breaking 
of  the  waves  of  the  ocean,  when  dashed  upon  the 
rocks  by  a  furious  tempest.  A  little  below  the 
bridge,  the  river  is  again  hurried  on,  between  two 
salient  points  of  rock,  in  a  place  so  narrow,  that 
one  may  easily  toss  a  stone  to  the  other  side ; 
the  angry  surges  here  struggle  through  with  vast 
commotion,  and  rise,  in  white  crested  waves,  the 
very  sight  of  which  makes  one's  head  giddy. 

Bellows  Falls,  as  a  piece  of  scenery,  are  peculiar, 
on  account  of  a  certain  snugness,  which  marks  the 
entire  collection  of  mountains,  rocks,  and  river-tor- 
rent, and  handsome  houses,  which  are  all  approach- 
ed without  the  slightest  inconvenience,  and  are 
comprised  within  a  very  small  compass.  On  the 
west  side  there  is  a  canal  half  a  mile  long,  around 
the  falls ;  it  has  nine  locks. 


GEOLOGY  AN!      IINERALOGT. 

The  rocks  at  this  pass  are  sienite,  mica  slate,  and 
a  peculiar  aggregate  of  mica  and  feldspar,  very 
much  resembling  sienite.  The  strata  run  in  the 
same  direction  as  the  great  mouutaii  rant;es  in  the 
vicinity,  only  they  are  very  low;  the  torrent  ap- 

*  Peters :  who  s  tys  that  (he  water  ii  here  so  deaae  that  it  «aD- 
nnt  be  pierced  by  a  crowbar. 


P  I 


(lUEBEC. 

Connecticut.* 
»ove  and  be- 
ent  breaking 
ed  upon  the 
below  the 
>etween  two 
arrow,   that 
other  side ; 
h  with  vast 
waves,  the 
iddy. 

ire  peculiar, 
I  marks  the 
d  river-tor- 
I  approach- 
e,  and  are 
s.  On  the 
ng,  around 


slate,  and 
par,  very 
un  in  the 
m^s  in  the 
>rrcnt  ap- 

that  it  ••!». 


TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTPORD  AND  QUEBEC.  425 

pears  as  if  it  had  once  broken  through,  and  very 
possibly  there  might,  anciently,  have  been  a  lake 
d'jove  this  place. 

I  would  strongly  recommend  a  particular  exam- 
ination of  the  rocks  about  Bellows  Falls.  The  few 
moments  which  I  had  to  spend,  I  occupied  in  in- 
specting the  ledges  on  the  Vermont  side,  and  below 
the  bridge.  They  appear  to  be  sometimes  over- 
flowed, for  they  contain  numerous  excavations,  evi- 
dently worn  by  the  water,  agitating  the  pebbles  and 
stonos,  and,  as  long  as  the  floods  last,  whirling  them 
with  incessant  motion.  Numbers  of  these  cavities, 
both  here  and  at  the  bridge,  are  of  considerable  di- 
mensions; some  aro  ryiindrical,  others  are  shaped 
like  cauldrons,  and  are  large  enough  to  serve  for 
that  purpose. 

In  the  rocks  alluded  to,  there  are  numerous  veins, 
some  of  them  a  foot  wide  or  more.  The  veins  are 
quartz  or  feldspar,  or  more  frequently,  they  are 
proper  granite  veins.  In  them  I  observed  violet  or 
rose  coloured  mica,  and  that  of  a  straw  yellow; 
feldspar  resembling  the  adularia ;  garnet;  tourma- 
lin both  the  common  black  schorl,  and  the  Indico- 
lite,  and  talc.  In  1oc.*p  rocks  there  was  also  abun- 
dance of  tremolite  and  oi  sappar.  There  can  be 
little  doubt  that  a  few  blasts  of  gunpowder  would 
uncover  fine  fresh  specimens  of  these  interesting 
minerals. 


I  i  ■>iii 


if' 


)  ■ 


\ 


1       I 

(  i 

'    7* 

< 

I 


* 


•U 


i 


f 


I* 


426  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

From  Bellows  Falls,  we  passed  down  to  Walpole* 
This  is  another  handsome  village ;  some  of  the 
houses  are  splendid. 

Putney,  on  the  Vermont  side,  presented  nothing 
particularly  interesting. 

We  reached  Brattleboroagh,  at  evening,  and 
there  passed  the  night. 

In  Dummerston  I  saw  a  great  slate  quarry :  the 
strata  were  vertical,  and  the  excavation  was  like  a 
deep  canal,  so  that  j  s  1  walked  into  it,  the  perpen- 
dicular strata  formed  a  perfect  wall  on  both  sides, 
and  I  trod  on  their  edges.  It  was  a  fine  example 
of  primitive  roofing  slate;  and  from  this  place  and 

iho  vicinity,  at  Rrottloborough,  6iC»  it  is  CXtcnsively 

quarried,  and  carried  down  the  river. 

In  speaking  of  the  villages  on  Connecticut  river, 
I  often  use  the  epithets  beautiful,  handsome,  &c.  till 
they  are  in  danger  of  becoming  trite.  Still  I  must 
repeat  them  with  respect  to  the  eastern^  village  of 
Brattleborough. 

This  village  is  built  principally  upon  one  street, 
and  contains  very  few  houses  or  shops  that  are  not 
an  ornament  to  the  place.  The  street  is  parallel  to 
the  river,  and  passes  through  luxuriant  meadows, 
spreading  into  an  extensive  champaign,  bounded 
by  the  Connecticut,  which  here,  for  miles,  washes 
the  base  of  a  grand  mountain  barrier  that  limits  the 
yiew  on  the  east.  Tiiis  view  was  best  seen  in  re- 
trospect, as  we  rose  the  hill,  at  the  south  end  of  the 

"^  Th«  other  Tillage  1  did  nut  see. 


L~ 


t    QUEBEC. 

'n  to  Walpole* 
some  of  the 

ented  nothing 

evening,   and 

e  quarry :  the 
on  was  like  a 
t,  the  perpen- 
n  both  sides, 
fine  example 
his  place  and 
is  extensively 

lecticut  river, 

Isome,  &c.  till 

Still  1  must 

rn*  village  of 

)n  one  street, 
i  that  are  not 
is  parallel  to 
nt  meadows, 
jn,  bounded 
liles,  washes 
)at  limits  the 
seen  in  re- 
h  end  of  the 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  427 

town.  Thence  we  saw  this  mountai'-range,  prob- 
ably here  one  thousand"*^  feet  high,  covered  with  the 
richest  drapery  of  the  forest,  and  stretching  away 
to  the  north,  while  the  Connecticut,  gently  washed 
its  foot,  and  the  pretty  village,  with  its  white  houses 
and  brilliant  church,  rose  in  the  midst  of  a  rich 
meadow. 

But,  the  most  interesting  object  in  Brattleborough, 
is  its  venerable  pastor^  with  whom,  at  his  pleasant 
rural  abode,  we  had  the  honour  of  an  evening  inter- 
view. At  the  age  of  75,  he  has  recently  return- 
ed from  England,  his  native  country,  after  a  visit  of 
eighteen  months.  He  had  been  absent  from  Eng- 
land twenty-five  years,  and  found  on  returning  to 
his  naiive  town,  which,  (except  occasional  visits,) 
he  left  sixty- three  years  since,  that  but  one  person 
remembered  him.  Even  the  monuments  of  his  co- 
temporaries  in  the  grave  yard,  WvVe  so  moss  grown, 
that  he  could  not  read  the  inscriptions,  and  those  of 
the  persons  who  had  died  more  recently,  he  did  not 
know.  He  found,  however,  many  friends  in  vari' 
ous  parts  of  England,  who  remembered  him  with 
affection.  The  country  appeared  to  him  greatly 
improved,  and  to  exhibit  the  most  decided  proofs  of 
a  thriving  condition ;  but  his  adopted  country  he 
greatly  prefers,  and  gladly  returned  to  end  his  days 
in  it. 

The  venerable  man,  at  once  an  instructive  and 
delightful  Mentok,  entertained  us  with  many  of  the 

*  This  ii  a  conjecture  merely  :  I  knovr  not  ef  any  measurement. 


nt 

i  in 


f 


.  i 


r* 


:r 


>  ... 


428    TOUH   BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    (),U£BEr. , 

incidents  of  his  tour,  the  relation  of  which  was  en- 
livened by  the  most  interesting  remarks. 

He  is  \\ke  the  aged  oak,  whose  boughs  are  still 
adorned  with  leaves,  and  whose  root  is  still  firm  in 
the  ground,  ahhough  it  has  endured  the  vicissitudes 
of  many  revolving  summers  and  winters. 


\\ 


,} 


October,  2U/. — We  left  Brattleborough  in  the 
morning,  and  eleven  miles  below,  crossed  the  bridge 
uilo  Northfield,  in  Massachusetts. 

Northfield  is  a  neat  village,  on  a  wide  street  situ- 
ated on  a  hill,  but  the  houses  are  plain ;  the  place 
had,  however,  an  air  of  comfort  and  snugness. 


fl     * 


^  GEOLOGY,  &c. 

In  this  street,  a  very  interesting  change  was  ob- 
served in  the  geology.  Rocks  occurred  both  loose 
and  in  place,  composed  of  fragments  :  they  were  of 
every  size,  from  a  foot  or  even  several  feet  in  diam- 
eter, down  to  small  grains.  These  fragments  were 
evidently  the  ruins  of  primitive  rocks  ;— entire  pie- 
ces of  gianile,  with  all  its  constituent  parts  distinct; 
of  gneiss,  mica  slate,  chlorite  slate,  common  sliite, 
&c.  were  interspersed,  and  the  cement  which  bound 
them  together,  was  merely  the  same  materials,  re- 
duced to  a  finer  state.  These  rocks  are  very  in- 
structive.    Coming  immediately  alter  the  primitive 


tRR 


?- 


QUEBEC. 

rhich  was  en- 
s. 

ughs  are  still 
is  still  firm  in 
le  vicissitudes 

s. 


rough   in  the 
e6  the  bridge 

de  street  situ- 
n ;  the   place 

lugness. 


mge  was  ob- 
ed  both  loose 
they  were  of 
feet  in  dinm- 
gments  were 
; — entire  pie- 
arts  distinct ; 
inunon  sliite, 
which  bound 
naterials,  re- 
are  very  in- 
he  primitive 


1©UR    BETWERN    HARTFORD    AND    qUFtiEC.    429 

«ountry.  and  indeed  in  close  connexion  with  it  and 
being  composed  of  fragments  of  priiuiiive  rocks 
confusedly  jumbled  together,  they  appear  to  lay 
strong  claims  to  a  transition  chariicter. 

Passing  down  through  Ndrthfidd  into  Montague, 
we  cauje  to  extensive  ranges  of  primitive  rocks, 
chiefly  gneiss;  but  in  them  occurred  gieat  beds  of 
granite,  the  first  that  I  had  seen  ht  place  on  oir 
whole  joiu'ney.  Primitive  rocks  continued  to  I'le 
upper  lock  of  Miller's  Falls:  the  can.il  Ik  .c.  i^  ;Mit 
through  a  coarse  conglomerate,  coiiiju>scd  of  Ir.ig- 
ments  of  primitive  rocks. 

'I'he  scenury  at  this  place  is  hand'^omr  ;  t'nd  at 
the  confluence  of  MilKi's  Kiver  wit'i  me  Conni  cli- 
ent, the  latter  forms  a  si;re;U  bow,  and  looks  like  a 
lake  siuTounded  by  hi;;h  hills. 

Several  miles  below,  we  came  to  AFillcr'*  Fills. 
The  river  runs  nearly  north  west,  and  is  pi'  cipiialed 
over  the  strata,  which  at  this  place  cros.«,  the  river, 
and  form  a  natural  dam.  In  the  middh^  of  the  riv- 
er, the  rocks  rise  so  high  liiui  (hey  lorni  \x\\  is'aiid, 
and  the  torrent  is  therefore  divided,  as  at  Nia_'  la. 
Through  the  whole  width,  which  is  one  thousand 
two  hundred  feet,  there  is  an  artificial  dam  of  tim- 
ber, built  upon  th(^  natural  one.  The  fall  thus  be- 
comes thirty  feet,  and  is  very  heauiifid  in  its  kind. 
It  is  in  fact,  a  vast  mill  dam,  and  is  said  to  be  a  very 
good  mi  -iature  of  Niagara.  The  whole  '^cene  is  a 
a  fine  one,  and  was  so  difierent  from  either  of  the 

37 


f\k 


\ 


\) 


J 


f-^-«4.«*- 


!* 


1.  .< 


4.30  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEe. 

Other  falls  that  we  had  seen,  that  it  was  an  agreea- 
ble addition. 

The  object  of  damming  these  falls,  is  to  feed 
with  water,  the  canal  which  is  cut  around  them,  and 
to  render  the  current  for  three  miles  above,  less  rap- 
id. This  canal  is  two  miles  long,  and  we  rode  along 
its  bank,  to  its  junction  with  the  Connecticut. 

The  rocks  which  form  the  natural  dam  at  Miller's 
Falls,  are  composed  of  fragments  of  primitive  rocks  ; 
but  j;enerally  these  fragments  are  not  large,  rarely 
cxceedin|4  an  inch  or  two  in  diameter,  and  general- 
ly smaller  than  that.  The  strata  have  an  inclination 
of  forty  five  degrees,  and  have  every  mark  of  the 
earliest  class  of  fragmented  rocks.  Are  they  not  a 
variety  of  Grey  wacke  .'*  Their  direction  is  nearly 
north-east  and  south-west. 


VV^e  crossed  the  Connecticut  again,  at  the  place 
where,  by  completing  its  great  bend,  it  returns  to 
its  usual  direction  of  north  and  south. 

We  now  arrived  in  the  town  of  Greenfield,  and 
on  ascending  the  hill  from  the  river,  I  saw,  for  the 
first  time,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  Irap  rocks  in 
place.  They  here  constitute  an  extensive  range, 
extremely  well  characterized,  and,  (agreeably  to 
Mr.  Hitchcock's  excellent  account  of  the  geology 
of  this  vicinity,*)   form,  very  nearly^  the  northern 

*  See  American  Journal  of  Science,  vol.  1. 


•'nr 


■'^*.'r»*     V- 


rN-.-t'^- 


k 


BEe. 

in  agreea- 

s  to  feed 
them,  and 
?.  less  rap- 
rode  along 
icnt. 

at  Miller's 
live  rocks ; 
rge,  rarely 
id  general- 
inclination 
irk  of  the 
they  not  a 
I   is  nearly 


t  the  place 
,  returns  to 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  q,UEBEC.  431 

extremity  of  the  great  trap  ranges,  which  com- 
mence at  New-Haven  and  cross  completely  both 
the  States  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut.* 

The  fragmented  rock8,  which  in  nearly  the  whole 
of  this  range,  lie  beneath  the  trap,  I  here  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  emerge,  at  a  high  angle  of  in- 
clination, and  at  a  high  elevation,  on  the  side  next 
to  the  village  of  Greenfield. 


From  the  hill  in  question,  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
this  village,  which  stands  principally  on  two  inter- 
secting streets;  has  a  number  of  handsome  houses, 
and,  for  a  country  town,  an  uncommon  proportion 
of  brick  buildings.  Walpole  also  has  a  number, 
and  Windsor  a  larger  number  than  either. 

Greenfield  stands  two  miles  from  Connecticut 
river,  on  a  high  plain,  which  declines  gently  to  the 
west.  It  has  handsome  churches,  a  court-house, 
a  jail,  &c. 


enfield,  and 
;aw,  for  the 
rap  rocks  in 
isive  range, 
igreeably  to 
:he  geology 
he  northern 

1. 


DEEflFIELD. 

Just  at  evening,  we  drove  over  to  Deerfield,  a 
distance  of  three  miles,  through  the  most  luxuriant 
and  beautiful  country,  that  we  had  any  where  seen 
in  our  whole  journey.     This  country  is  the  fine  al- 

♦  The  same  that,  in  sketching  the  scenery  in  the  middle  region 
of  Connecticut,  wore  described  early  io  this  volume. 


f  If  --su/e*  - 


i 


i 


'1 


AW 


1  ^r 


^'1 


u 


n 

^  l".  1 


i 


h 


i\ 


432  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

luvial  region,  intersected  by  the  Dceifield  river, 
and  probably  formed  by  it,  as  the  alluvial  countries 
on  rivers  generally  appear  to  be.  Even  now,  in 
the  latter  part  of  October,  the  grass  is  most  vividly 
green,  thickly  matted,  and  rich  as  the  shag  of  vel- 
vet. The  remains  of  tlie  crops  of  corn,  evinced 
also  great  productiveness,  and  seemed  almost  to 
realize  the  fables  of  the  golden  ages. 

We  were  comfortably  lodged  in  a  good  inn,  just 
in  time  to  visit,  before  dark,  a  very  interesting  an- 
tiquity in  this  town. 

lii  the  early  periods  of  the  history  of  the  New- 
England  colonies.  Dierfiold.  being  for  a  long  course 
of  years,  a  frontier  town,  was  very  often  attacked 
by  the  French  and  Indians  from  Canada,  and  its 
inhabitants  were  frequently  slain,  or  carried  into 
captivity. 

To  guard  against  these  attacks,  an  extensive  fort 
was  establisii'jd,  includirtg  within  its  limits,  many  of 
the  houses,  and  forming  a  place  of  retreat  and  of 
security  for  the  inhabitants. 

In  February,  1704,  this  fort  was,  by  the  negli- 
gence of  the  sentinel,  surprised  and  taken,  just  be- 
fore day  light,  and  the  inhabitants  were  aroused 
from  their  slumbers,  by  the  furious  attacks  of  cruel 
enemies,  upon  their  defenceless  dwellings.  Most 
of  the  houses  were  burnt,  and  their  wretched  ten- 
ants were  either  dragged  away  into  captivity,  or 
slaughterd  in  their  own  habitations,  or  near  them. 
Men,  women,  and  children,  were  indiscriminately 


\'^-^*\r^ 


BBEC. 

eld  river, 
coujitries 
1  now,  in 
ost  vividly 
lag  of  vel- 
i,  evinced 
almost  to 

d  inn,  just 
resting  an- 

the  New- 
ong  course 
n  attacked 
ia,  and  its 
uried  into 

ensive  fort 
ls,  many  of 
reat  and  of 

tlie  negli- 
;n,  just  be- 
ne aroused 
ks  of  cruel 
\^»,  Most 
;tched  ten- 
ptivity,  or 
lear  (hem. 
:riminately 


TOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND  a^-'EBEr.    433 

slain,  and  parents  saw  their  little  ones  butchered 
before  their  eyes. 

One  house  still  remains,  as  a  painful  memento  to 
posterity.  The  front  door  was  hnked  and  hewn 
with  hatchets,  until  the  savages  had  cut  a  hole 
through  it ;  through  this  hole  they  fired  into  the 
bouse;  this  door,  which  still  bears  its  ancient 
wounds,  and  the  hole,  (closed  only  by  a  board, 
tacked  on  within,)  remains  now,  as  the  savages  left 
it,  and  is  a  most  interesting  monument. 

Through  the  windows  they  also  fired,  and  one 
bullet  killed  the  female  head  of  the  family,  sitting 
up  in  bed,  and  the  mark  of  that  bullet,  as  well  as  of 
four  others,  is  visible  in  the  room  ;  in  one  of  the 
holes  in  a  joist,  another  bullet  remains  to  this  day. 
This  family  was  all  killed,  or  carried  into  captivity. 

In  the  same  attack,  the  clergyman  of  the  place, 
the  Rev.  John  Williams,  and  his  family,  shared  a 
similar  fate.  Two  of  the  children  were  killed  at 
the  door,  Mrs.  Williams,  their  mother,  in  the  mead- 
ows, a  little  way  out  of  town,  and  Mr.  Williams, 
and  the  rest  of  the  family,  were  carried  prisoners 
to  Canada. 

We  saw  in  the  museum,  in  Deerfield  academy, 
the  pistol  which  he  snapped  at  the  Indians,  when 
they  rushed  into  his  bed  room. 

Mr.  Williams*  lived  many  years  after  his  return, 
and  I  saw  his  grave,  and  that  of  his  murdered  wife. 

*  The  house  of  public  worship,  in  which  Mr.  Williams  used  to 
preach,  is  still  standing  in  Deerfield. 

37* 


f 


<      I 


a 


s 


I 


..^^t— ;.;<*- 


..i-Xiik. 


434    TOUn    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (QUEBEC. 

On  the  lalttM',  i:-  v,  \  t;j j  p.-oper  inscription,  which  1 
regret  that  1  omit     '  .v.  copy. 


'i  1'      .   1 


u 


■)i     .  ' 


■<  i 


^  1 


Deerfield  is  a  plain  venerable  town,  with  good 
building!?,  but  not  man}'  of  them  are  in  the  modern 
style;  this  circumstance  is,  however,  rather  pleas- 
ing, than  otherwisci 

Deerlield  extends  about  a  mile  on  one  street;  it 
has  a  highly  respectable  academy,  the  finest  mead- 
ows in  New-Eniilaiidj  and  a  very  interesting  ancient 
history,  upon  which  1  have  no  time  to  enlarge. 

«  «  «  «  « 

Oct.  '22. — We  left  Deerlield  on  a  fine  morning, 
and  extended  our  ride  thirty-eijiht  miles,  to  Spring- 
field. We  followed  the  Deertield  mountain — cross- 
ed the  fatal,  bloody  (or,  as  it  is  now  called,  muddy,) 
brook,  where,  on  the  1  ith  of  September,  1675, 
Captain  Lathrop,  with  almost  his  \.  hole  company, 
of  ninety  or  aii  hundred  young  men,  the  flower  of 
that  region,  was  cut  oflfby  the  Indians,  who,  to  the 
number  of  seven  or  eight  hundred,  attacked  them 
by  surprize,  wlieu,  as  is  said,  most  of  the  party 
were  cnj.'aged  in  gathering  grapes. 

We  rode  down  to  the  feiry  at  Sunderland,  to  ob- 
tain a  good  view  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain, 
which  is  so  well  described  by  Mr.  Hitchcock,*  that 

*  American  Jourual  of  Science. 


L    § 

f^ 

■  '^D 

'  \  f.   r 

^m 

1 

V''  ^K 

V             i 

.**!% 

J             * 

^^>: 


K^T" 


TV 


r^-*f*.-J 


SBEC. 

,  which  1 


irith  good 
(!  modern 
ler  pleas- 
street;  it 
L»st  mcad- 
)g  ancient 
iige. 


morning, 
to  Spring- 
n — cross- 
,  muddy,) 
er,  1675, 
company, 
flower  of 
ho,  to  the 
<ed  them 
he  party 

nd,  to  ob- 
louiitain, 
ick,*  that 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qrEHEC.  435 

I  have  scarcely  occasion  to  remark,  (hit  il  is  com- 
posed of  conglomerate  rot:k,  and  ih.a  the  njountain 
back  of  It  is  trap. 

We  crossed  through  H.Jifiold,  over  to  fladloy, 
and  thence  inlo  No'thaiT»jil«iii.  whrtre  we  di;i(*il. — 
It  is  hardly  n;  cessiux  !«>  sa}  ai.y  lliui^  of  these 
scenes,  wiiich  are  so  iiXiMi  .n  .  ^nA  so  well  known, 
that  tlieii  b'  auty  is  quite  pioverb;a). 

Halfi  ;ld  and  lladlcy  are  neat  and  venerable  pla- 
ces, and  Northampton  is  one  of  the  tinest  inland 
towns  in  America. 

The  great  bends  of  the  river  here — the  bold 
scenery  of  Mount  Holyoke,  and  Mount  Tom,  and 
the  rich  and  grand  landscape,  from  their  summits, 
particularly  from  the  former,  have  been  often  de- 
scribed, and  can  hardly  be  exaggerated. 

At  West  Springtic.ld,  we  called  on  the  venerable 
Dr.  Lathrop,  now  almost  eighty-ciiiht  years  oldj 
he  will  complete  that  age,  he  informed  us,  on  the 
last  day  of  this  month.  His  sight  is  ahnost  extinct, 
but  his  other  faculties  appear  unimpaired.  He  is 
erect  and  vigorous,  walks  well,  and  his  features  are 
not  injured;  his  head  is  covered  with  fine  white 
locks,  and  his  whole  appearance  is  very  interesting. 
He  is  recently  relieved  from  public  duty  by  a  col- 
league ;  and,  after  abont  *«ixiy  years  of  the  most 
useful  labors  as  a  preacher,  is  well  entitled  to  res^; 


.\ 


i 


i. 


J 


*••    ' 


.—  .   «» 


it~^' 


W.    Till!      ^WMfcfc 


-'i-- ^: 


u 


i 


436    TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  QUEflEC. 

as  a  writer  of  sermons,*  he  has  been  excelled  bjr 
few  in  this  country  f 

Oct,  2.?. — We  passed  the  last  night  at  Spring- 
field, which,  in  boaufy,  hardly  yield?  to  any  town 
on  the  river.  In  the  morning,  1  visited  the  United 
States'  armory,  and  was  much  gratified  ;  for  order, 
neatness,  and  high  excellence,  in  every  department 
— under  the  able  management  of  Colonel  Lee,  it 
merits  the  highest  euiogium. 

We  proceeded  through  Long  Meadow  to  En- 
field, and,  at  the  bridge,  on  the  eastern  side,  I  was 
pleased  to  observe  the  sand  stone  rocks,  filled  with 
the  remains  of  vegetables,  bituminized  and  carbon- 
ized, and  affording  one  indication,  among  many,  of 
a  region  containing  coal.  This,  and  the  contiguous 
places,  should  be  more  attentively  examined. 

Through  Windsor,  we  proceeded  to  Hartford, 
and,  arriving  there  before  evening,  almost  five 
weeks  from  the  time  of  our  departure,  found  those 
in  health  and  prosperity,  who  were  most  interesting 
to  us;  and,  in  the  retrospect,  perceived  much  cause 
for  satisfaction,  and  still  more  for  gratitude,  that,  in 
travelling  nearly  twelve  hundred  miles,  not  one  dis- 
aster, nor  one  serious  disappointment,  had  given  us 
occasion  to  regret  the  undertaking. 


*  Allusion  it  here,  of  course,  made  to  the  volumes  of  sermons, 
which  ht  hat  published. 

tThis  venerable  minister  of  religion  died  on  th<'  31st  of  De- 
romber,  1820,  in  the  ninetieth  year  of  his  age. — (1U24.) 


i  \ 


i 


.-,^ 


tTJEHEC* 

excelled  bjr 

t  at  Spring- 
to  aiiv  to'.vn 
1  the  United 
I ;  for  onler, 
'  department 
onel  Lee,  it 

dow  to  En- 
;i  side,  I  was 
:s,  tilled  with 
and  carbon- 
mg  many,  of 
e  contiguous 
tmined. 
to  Hartford, 
almost  five 
found  those 
(t  interesting 
i  much  cause 
tude,  that,  in 
,  not  one  dis- 
had  given  us 


mes  of  sermons. 

thf  31st  of  D«?- 
[1U24.) 


TOUK    BETWEEN    HARTFORD  AND    QUEREC.    437 

REMARK. 

I  have  said  very  little  of  the  public  houses  and 
accommodations  on  the  journey.  Should  this  be 
thought  a  deficiency,  it  is  easily  supplied  ;  for,  we 
found  them,  almost  without  exception,  so  comfort- 
able, quiet  and  agreeable,  that  we  had  neither  oc- 
casion nor  inclination  to  tind  fault. 

Groat  civility,  and  a  disposition  to  please  their 
guests,  were  generally  conspicuous  at  ti.e  inns; 
almost  every  where,  when  we  wished  it,  we  found 
a  private  parlour  and  a  separate  table,  and  rarely, 
did  we  hear  any  profane  or  coarse  language,  or 
observe  any  rude  and  boisterous  deportment. 


1 

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ADDExNDA. 


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^\ 


I.  Historical  Notices  respecting  the  vicinity  of  the. 
Lakes  George  and  Chaynplain,  and  the  Head  Wa- 
ters of  the  Hudson* 

The  following  notices,  received  from  a  respect- 
ed friend,  came  to  hand  too  late  for  insertion  in 
their  proper  places,  in  the  body  of  the  hook.  Be- 
lievinjr,  however,  that  they  may  afford  useful  hints 
to  travellers,  I  insert  them  here.  A  few  things 
mentioned  in  this  communication,  will  be  found 
to  be  nearly  in  common  with  some  passages  in  the 
book,  but  1  have,  notwithstanding,  inserted  the 
whole. 


Between  Glen's  Falls  and  Lake  George,  and 
about  five  miles  from  the  latter  place,  where  an 
old  French  road  passes,  there  is  a  rock  of  about 
three  tons  in  weight,  on  which  the  Indians,  during 
the  French  war,  (as  it  i<  called,)  burnt  their  pris- 
oners.    The  ro(  k  is  split  into  three  pieces,  by  fire. 

Four  miles  from  Fort  George,  during  the  Revo- 
lutionary War,  Colonel  Warner,  (celebrated  in 
Vermont.)  Major  Hopkins  and  Lieutenant  Coon, 
were  shot  at  by  Indians  fiom  belnrid  a  rock,  vvlun 
goinji  from  that  foit  to  Fort  Edward.  The  two  last 
were  killed.  1  saw  the  place  where  their  hones 
were  dug  up  about  the  year  I8I0,  \Viirner  and 
his  horse  were   wounded.     He  rode  olf;   but  his 


k 


\ 


icinity  of  tht. 
\e  Head  JV^.- 


m  a  respect- 
insertion  in 
book.     Be- 
useful  hints 
\    few  things 
ill   be  found 
ssages  in  the 
inserted   the 


George,  and 
e,  where  an 
ock  of  about 
iians,  during 
nt  their  pris- 
eces,  by  fire. 
ig  the  Revo- 
elc'brated  in 
enant  Coon, 
1  rock,  when 
Tho  two  la»it 
I  Ihfir  hones 
^Vilnlo^  and 
olf;   but  his 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  439 

horse  failing,  he  mounted  another,  tliat  had  been 
rode  b''  one  of  his  companions  and  escaped. — 
Tht'  wounded  horse,  after  following  liim  to  Glen's 
Falls,  fell  down  dead. 

French  Mountain  is  to  the  right  as  you  go  to 
Lake  George,  and  about  four  miles  from  it.  B.iron 
Dicnkau,  with  two  thousand  three  hundred  iii>in, 
la:ided  at  the  head  of  South  Bay,  with  a  \iew  to 
take  Fort  Edward.  When  he  approached  Sandy 
Hill,  he  gave  up  the  expediiion,  and  turned  by 
French  Mountain,  (which  is  insulated  from  all 
others  by  Dunham's  Bay.)  in  order  to  take  Fort 
William  Hen";.  Here  ho  met  and  defeated  a  large 
detachment  from  that  place,  two  and  an  half  miles 
from  it,  and  threw  the  killed  into  Bioody  Pond,— 
He  was  afterwards  repulsed.  See  Mante's  Histo- 
ry of  the  war. 

One  mile  south  of  Fort  George,  you  pass  by 
Gage's  Hill,  on  the  right,  and  so  called  from  Colo- 
nel Gage  of  the  Provincials,  being  defeated  here 
with  considerable  loss  by  the  French. 

About  a  mile  from  Lake  George,  I  saw  ancient 
lines  of  defence,  for  a  covering  army  :  ditches  and 
cellars  on  commanding  ground.  A  little  further  on 
to  the  right,  and  close  to  the  Lake,  arc  the  ditclies, 
ramparts,  &c.  of  old  Fort  William  Henry,  and  to 
the  left,  the  plain  where  the  massacre  took  place, 
after  the  fort  was  surrendered  to  iMontcalm. 

There  was  a  garrion  of  two  British  companieB 
on  Diamond  Llaiui,  during  some  part  of  the  Rev- 
©lulionary  War. 


I 


I 


.1 


U 


ft 


„u 


h  r+1 


I! 

I/' 


I        ) 


440    TOUR    HETWEE.V    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 

Frenchman's  Point,  s(  venf**en  miles  from  the 
head  of  \j;\ko  Gcofge,  derives  itf  names  from  a  de- 
fea»'  of  the  French  during  the  war  of  1750. 

Sal)ba(h-Day  Point  is  six  miles  from  Ticondero- 
ga,  and  is  so  ealled  from  a  massacre  on  thit  day 
b}  the  Indians,  after  a  battle.  Here  are  the  re- 
mains of  two  old  buildings,  or  forts,  judging  from 
the  excavaiions.  Rogers' Rock  is  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Lake,  and  four  miles  from  its  foot.  Here 
the  Lake  narrows.  It  is  named  from  a  tradition 
which  prevails,  that  the  famous  parlizan  Maior 
Roarers  ran  down  it.  in  order  to  avoid  the  close 
pursuit  of  the  Indians,  and  (tFecterl  his  escape  on 
the  Lake  by  skates.  This  place  .itfords  a  line  titid 
for  mineralogical  investigation,  and  there  is,  near 
it,  a  den  of  rattlesnakes. 

On  the  cast  side  of  Lake  George  is  Mount  Defi- 
ance, a  high  mountain,  celebrated  for  Burgoyne's 
drawing  up  his  cannon  th<^re,  and  by  that  means  he 
overlooked  Ticonderoga,  and  drove  our  army  from 
thr  fort.  Ho  landed  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the 
ferry,  on  Lake  Champlain.  on  the  west  side,  and 
if  he  had  taken  the  route  of  Lake  George,  his 
chaiice  of  success  would  have   been  much  !    iter. 

The  Old  French  lines  at  Ticond(;roga  e\hibii  a 
strong  work,  extending  f'-om  Lake  Champlain  to 
the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  and  face  the  north. 

Buigoyne  built  a  blockhouse  on  Mount  Detiance. 


f 


QUEBEC. 

iles  from  the 
u's  from  a  de- 

1750. 
m  Ticondero- 

OM  tint  day 
3  are    the  re- 
judging  from 
the  west  side 

foot.  Here 
>m  a  tradition 
rlizan  Maior 
old  the  close 
his  escape  on 
•ds  a  fine  fit  id 
there  is,  near 

Mount  Doii- 
r  liurgo}  tie's 
hat  means  he 
ur  army  from 
a  If  above  the 
est  side,  and 

George,  his 
much  '-  Iter. 
o^a  eshibii  a 
Jhamplain  to 
le  norlh. 

nt  Defiance. 


*,' 


TOUR  BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    Q,U£BEC.    44J 

A  mile  south  of  Fort  Ann,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
road,  IS  the  place  where  Putnam,  after  being  cap- 
tured by  the  Indians  and  French,  was  tied  up  for 
burning,  and  when  about  to  perish,  he  was  relieved 
by  a  French  officer,  who,  it  is  said,  believed  him 
to  be  a  free  mason. 

Fort  Ann  was  a  pickctted  work,  and  covered 
about  an  acre  of  ground.  It  is  situated  just  above 
the  junction  of  Wood  Creek  a  nd  Half-Way  Brook. 
Wood  Creek  is  navigable  to  this  place,  and  Bur- 
goyne  transported  his  heavy  artiUer  to  it  by  wa- 
ter. A  little  below  the  junction  of  Powlet  River 
and  Wood  Creek,  near  the  head  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  on  the  west  side,  is  Putnam^s  Mount,  from 
wheiiC>>  he  repulsed  a  party  of  Indians,  coming  up 
in  canoes.  The  stump  of  the  tree  from  which  he 
tired,  is  still  pointed  out. 

2.  The  people  called  Shakers, 

Some  members  of  the  society  at  New-Lcbanou, 
and  at  Watervlist,  having  objected  to  certain  pas- 
age^,  m  the  first  edition  of  this  book,  I  have  omitted 
them  in  the  present.  They  were  quoted  from 
Thomas  Brown's  work,  which  had  been  strongly 
recommended  to  me  as  an  authority,  nor  did  I 
learn  till  more  than  a  year  after  my  book  was  pub- 
lished, that  the  Shakers  denied  the  authenticity  ol 
Mr.  Brown's  account  of  their  society.  With  the 
controversy  between  them,  an^.  this  seceded  mem- 
ber, and  with  the  question  as  to  the  authenticitv 

38 


f 


I 


.1 


.1 


( 


/ 


-•^i* 


^-r 


*.'*e 


1  I    .  y.' 


442  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AMD  QUEBEC. 

and  fairness  of  his  account,  I  have  now  no  con- 
cern •, — nor  do  I  mean,  even  to  imply  an  opinion 
on  this  subject,  while  I  suppress  my  citations  from 
him.  When  1  cited  this  work,  I  fully  believed  it 
to  be  authentic; — but  1  should  consider  it  as  unfair 
and  unkind,  to  continue  to  quote  it,  after  1  have 
been  informed  that  the  society  of  which  the  author 
once  was  a  member,  deny  his  authenticity.  Had 
my  time  permitted  me  to  mingle  with  their  commu- 
nity, I  should  have  avoided  this  error,  and  should 
probably  have  learned  that  there  are  works  ac- 
knowledged by  the  society,  and  published  with 
their  knowledge  aiid  approbation.  At  the  time, 
I  did  not  know  this  fact,  but  have  since  been  put 
by  them,  in  possession  of  Dunlavy's  Manifesto — 
Christ's  second  appearing  and  the  Summary 
ViEV/,  and  1  am  informed  by  them,  that  an  article 
recently  published  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Benedict,  in  his 
View  or  all  Religions  is  authentic.  Being  de- 
sirous to  do  them  justice,  and  neither  my  health  nor 
time  permitting  me  to  make  a  digest  from  their 
books,  I  requested  them  to  prepare  for  me,  a  short 
article,  on  their  faith  and  polity,  to  be  inserted  in 
the  present  edition  of  this  book.  This  request  was 
complied  with,  by  two  intelligent  members,  who 
furnished  me  with  a  well  digested  manuscript  arti- 
cl»".  but  it  arriv  cd  too  late — that  pail  of  the  book  to 
which  it  belonged,  being  already  printed  I  thought 
of  inset  titig  it,  in  an  appeiulix  but,  although  much 
condensed,  it  was  still  rather  long  for  a  small  book 


\ 


\ 


% 


U£BEC. 

)w  no  con- 
t  an  opinion 
tations  from 
believed  it 
r  it  as  unfair 
after  1  have 
li  the  author 
ticity.     Had 
leir  commu- 
,  and  should 
e  works  ac- 
3lished   with 
it  the   time, 
ce  been  put 
[anifesto — 
»e  Summary 
at  an  article 
iiedict,  in  his 
Being  de- 
ly  health  nor 
from  their 
me,  a  short 
}  inserted  in 
request  was 
mbers,  who 
iscript  arti- 
f  the  book  to 
I  thought 
[ou^h   inucii 
small  book 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC.  443 

of  travels,  and  it  appeared  (as  the  authors  intimated 
in  their  letter  accompanying  it,)  better  adapted  to  a 
professedly  religious,  than  a  common  popular 
work.  I  have  therefore  communcated  it  to  the 
Editor  of  a  very  respectable  Religious  Miscellany,* 
in  which  it  will  obtain  an  extensive  circulation 
among  a  class  of  readers  who  will  be  desirous  to 
receive  correct  information  respecting  a  subject  so 
little  understood.  1  trust  that  this  book  now  con- 
tains nothing,  in  point  of  fact,  whioh  the  Shakers 
will  pronounce  incorrect — my  opinion  of  their  celib- 
acy remains  unchanged;  and  I  was  not  willing  to 
modify  the  expression  of  my  views  on  that  topic; 
there  we  must  remain,  amicably,  I  trust,  at  variance* 

*  The  Christain  Spectator,  published  at  New-Haven ;  this 
piece  will  appear  in  the  Number  for  July,  1824.  I  gave  the 
Editor  leave  to  omit  a  few  passages,  and  to  abridge  a  few 
others,  (agreeably  to  the  permission  of  the  authors,)  care  being 
taken  to  preserve  the  sense,  and  the  order  of  connexion  of  the 
parts. 


